tilroh To be sure it is a brilliantly simple way to set a sail. ... or two. I have a Core Sound 17 which has two sails set much the same. My boat handling is considerably less assured/skillfull/courageous than yours though!
Graham Byrnes is a quiet genus. He was the adviser on a structural refit of a 49' cutter I was working on. Those Core Sound 17s certainly do well in the Everglades Challenge. If I were to build another sailboat it would be a CS17.
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Beautiful! :) I love your boat! (Check the vid, it ends at 1:25 but blank blackness goes on for an other minute)
I tried to cut the blank part from the end of the video but it's invisible in iMovie. This has never happened before. iMove was just "updated" yesterday (??)
Hey the vids are great, thanks for them. I have a technical question. I recently got a 12' boat with a single leg-o-mutton and I am trying to add some reefing. The sail is tied on with individual ties (not laced) and permanently tied to the top of the mast. To furl it I roll the mast and wrap the sail it around. That works OK, but the designer says to reef one should remove the boom-sprit and partially roll in the sail. That works kind of OK on ONE tack but not so much on the other. I think the sail shape is ruined by the rolled-up part. Also without a boom the sail can't be effectively flattened and gets too much belly in strong winds, and wrapped around the mast the center of effort moves forward and tacking becomes almost impossible in strong wind. Can you describe your reefing system? I see you have two sets of reef points, a topping lift and what looks like a halyard. Does the sprit and snotter interfere with the halyard? How is the halyard routed? I should tell you I have a big curved sprit with a perpendicular piece on the forward end with two notches that two of the luff sail ties slip into to hold up that end. It does not protrude and there is no snotter. I adjust sail tension at the aft end by tensioning the clew with the sheet. I'm thinking of ditching the pretty curved sprit and going with a straight one that I can stow against the mast, the curved was is long, relatively heavy, and difficult to stow. Can you give me the approximate dimensions of your sprit? Is it tapered? What is the diameter at its thickest? Does it bear a lot of the sail load? I'm trying to decide how beefy to make a new straight sprit. I think I have 64 square feet of sail area. My boat is a Shell Swifty 12, you can find some pics of it at the Shell Boats website and a few videos online. I'd appreciate any advice you can spare.
Hi BS33, Sorry I just saw your comment. I reef Tempo's leg-o-mutton rig reefs by: slacking the snotter, easing the halyard & lowering the sail so you can attach the downhaul to the reef point. My downhaul is simply a short piece of line that loops from the cleat up to the sail a couple of times giving purchase. The snotter has to be disconnected from the mast to allow a couple of laces to slide down and is re-attached. The reef point on the clew is held to the sprit by a small line tied to the grommet, then loops under the sprit and back through the grommet and goes normal clew and is cinched up just a little. the sprit doesn't change position much. The reef lines gather and hold the loose sail. I slack the down haul and raise the sail till the halyard is firm, then very firmly tighten the downhaul. Next tighten the snotter as tight as you can to take out the vertical wrinkles caused by the haylard/downhaul tension. For high winds, you want the sail as flat as possible. With a reef. Tempo can make good headway into a 25kt headwind. I don’t point as high as the boat will but fall off a bit for more speed and less leeway.
Oh, just buy this book: www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Book-Reuel-B-Parker/dp/0071580131 For good common sense, low tech solutions. Reuel Parker is MAN. I built Tempo from this book.
Great docking! Love that sprit rig!
Thanks Gary. The rig is called a "Leg-o-Mutton" rig. It's efficient and simple. Cheers!
tilroh To be sure it is a brilliantly simple way to set a sail. ... or two. I have a Core Sound 17 which has two sails set much the same. My boat handling is considerably less assured/skillfull/courageous than yours though!
Graham Byrnes is a quiet genus. He was the adviser on a structural refit of a 49' cutter I was working on. Those Core Sound 17s certainly do well in the Everglades Challenge. If I were to build another sailboat it would be a CS17.
Beautiful! :) I love your boat! (Check the vid, it ends at 1:25 but blank blackness goes on for an other minute)
I tried to cut the blank part from the end of the video but it's invisible in iMovie. This has never happened before. iMove was just "updated" yesterday (??)
Thanks, finally removed the blank time at the end using YourTube editor. So easy once you know.
Hey the vids are great, thanks for them. I have a technical question. I recently got a 12' boat with a single leg-o-mutton and I am trying to add some reefing. The sail is tied on with individual ties (not laced) and permanently tied to the top of the mast. To furl it I roll the mast and wrap the sail it around. That works OK, but the designer says to reef one should remove the boom-sprit and partially roll in the sail. That works kind of OK on ONE tack but not so much on the other. I think the sail shape is ruined by the rolled-up part. Also without a boom the sail can't be effectively flattened and gets too much belly in strong winds, and wrapped around the mast the center of effort moves forward and tacking becomes almost impossible in strong wind. Can you describe your reefing system? I see you have two sets of reef points, a topping lift and what looks like a halyard. Does the sprit and snotter interfere with the halyard? How is the halyard routed? I should tell you I have a big curved sprit with a perpendicular piece on the forward end with two notches that two of the luff sail ties slip into to hold up that end. It does not protrude and there is no snotter. I adjust sail tension at the aft end by tensioning the clew with the sheet. I'm thinking of ditching the pretty curved sprit and going with a straight one that I can stow against the mast, the curved was is long, relatively heavy, and difficult to stow. Can you give me the approximate dimensions of your sprit? Is it tapered? What is the diameter at its thickest? Does it bear a lot of the sail load? I'm trying to decide how beefy to make a new straight sprit. I think I have 64 square feet of sail area. My boat is a Shell Swifty 12, you can find some pics of it at the Shell Boats website and a few videos online. I'd appreciate any advice you can spare.
Hi BS33, Sorry I just saw your comment. I reef Tempo's leg-o-mutton rig reefs by:
slacking the snotter,
easing the halyard & lowering the sail so you can attach the downhaul to the reef point.
My downhaul is simply a short piece of line that loops from the cleat up to the sail a couple of times giving purchase.
The snotter has to be disconnected from the mast to allow a couple of laces to slide down and is re-attached.
The reef point on the clew is held to the sprit by a small line tied to the grommet, then loops under the sprit and back through the grommet and goes normal clew and is cinched up just a little. the sprit doesn't change position much.
The reef lines gather and hold the loose sail.
I slack the down haul and raise the sail till the halyard is firm, then very firmly tighten the downhaul.
Next tighten the snotter as tight as you can to take out the vertical wrinkles caused by the haylard/downhaul tension. For high winds, you want the sail as flat as possible.
With a reef. Tempo can make good headway into a 25kt headwind. I don’t point as high as the boat will but fall off a bit for more speed and less leeway.
Oh, just buy this book: www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Book-Reuel-B-Parker/dp/0071580131 For good common sense, low tech solutions. Reuel Parker is MAN. I built Tempo from this book.
@@tilroh Thanks!
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