Great video as usual ROOSTER! Just picked up a lang tools leak down tester at summit for my 16 kx250f that is impossible to start. From your videos I am going to check TDC again but I have a ton of air coming into the air box. If it’s still the same at confirmed TDC, the head is coming off for the solvent and air bubble test. Thanks again for all you do, I’m am hooked on the videos and I just found your channel as few weeks ago. Love seeing all the clapped out 4 strokes that you bring back to life.
Thank you for your feedback and support. If you are still getting air in the intake after confirming TDC and proper valve lash, watch video 72 around 51 minutes in to be sure your cam hasn’t spun on the gear. If all is good, you will have to pull the head and inspect the valve faces and seats.
@@restoroosterohv thanks so much for guiding me to the exact video! I have used some of your kx250f and kx450f videos for help. Even some of the yz250f videos are helpful as those always seem to have issues lol. But each time you nip them in the bud and offer a resolution. Can I re use the kx250f 2016 head bolts? Also Kibblewhite valves?
@dragin79 yes and yes. They will tell you to replace them due to potential stretch but I’ve never had an issue. Be sure to torque them properly. Kibblewhite valves are great. Just know, if you are going from titanium valves to steel valves, you will need to replace the springs as well because the steels valves are heavier.
So I pulled the head and it failed your leak test miserably. Sprayed solvent in the chamber and it leaked out the bottom, then flipped it over and pooled solvent and added air and bubbles instantly. What kit and where do you usually buy cost effective valve kits? 2016 kx250f, thanks again.
@@dragin79 I like using Kibblewhite valves and eBay or Rocky Mountain ATV is my usual go to. Unfortunately when switching to steel valves, the springs need to be replaced (the valves are heavier so the stock springs, made for lighter Ti valves, are not strong enough). If your not the kind of rider that is on the limiter constantly you could potentials get away with reusing the stock springs but it is a gamble. Be sure to replace all of your keepers. Check for wear in your guides too.
@@restoroosterohv OK, but what concerns me is that it looks like somebody had already been in there and cleaned up the screens and filter. That oil was WAY too clean. Almost as if it had just been replaced......
@jakeslouw3416 it was just replaced however the bearing would still be “shedding” metal and even with a change it would never be fully gone and there was nothing in the filter. I put a lot of miles on this bike before inspection. I agree with you that it is louder than normal. My customer did not want to rip into the engine at this time. We’ll see…
You did mention it was running lean. So, that could cause the big end bearing to overheat, right ? Maybe it's not quite yet to the point where it starts shedding metal but it could start to get loose. Maybe there is some play there.
I agree, it certainly sounds like the big end bearing however, when they start to go and make noise like that, there will always be signs in the oil and filter consisting of fine metallic dust.
@@restoroosterohv I have a Yamaha warrior that had the same noise under load. I finally rebuilt the complete engine and the rod was loose. Owned it four years B4 the rebuild always changed oil and never had metal or metal residue in the oil or filter. I'm only saying it because I experienced it.
Absolutely love the DRZ 400 engine content......count me as a new fan!
I appreciate your feedback and support
Seeing a drz400 on your channel is awsome. Thank you for your knowledge and input.
I have a few. Thank you for your feedback and support
The exhaust clamp on top on bottom 😂it’s the small details brilliant 👍🏻
Absolutely! Thanks for watching.
Great video as usual ROOSTER! Just picked up a lang tools leak down tester at summit for my 16 kx250f that is impossible to start. From your videos I am going to check TDC again but I have a ton of air coming into the air box. If it’s still the same at confirmed TDC, the head is coming off for the solvent and air bubble test. Thanks again for all you do, I’m am hooked on the videos and I just found your channel as few weeks ago. Love seeing all the clapped out 4 strokes that you bring back to life.
Thank you for your feedback and support. If you are still getting air in the intake after confirming TDC and proper valve lash, watch video 72 around 51 minutes in to be sure your cam hasn’t spun on the gear. If all is good, you will have to pull the head and inspect the valve faces and seats.
@@restoroosterohv thanks so much for guiding me to the exact video! I have used some of your kx250f and kx450f videos for help. Even some of the yz250f videos are helpful as those always seem to have issues lol. But each time you nip them in the bud and offer a resolution. Can I re use the kx250f 2016 head bolts? Also Kibblewhite valves?
@dragin79 yes and yes. They will tell you to replace them due to potential stretch but I’ve never had an issue. Be sure to torque them properly. Kibblewhite valves are great. Just know, if you are going from titanium valves to steel valves, you will need to replace the springs as well because the steels valves are heavier.
So I pulled the head and it failed your leak test miserably. Sprayed solvent in the chamber and it leaked out the bottom, then flipped it over and pooled solvent and added air and bubbles instantly. What kit and where do you usually buy cost effective valve kits? 2016 kx250f, thanks again.
@@dragin79 I like using Kibblewhite valves and eBay or Rocky Mountain ATV is my usual go to. Unfortunately when switching to steel valves, the springs need to be replaced (the valves are heavier so the stock springs, made for lighter Ti valves, are not strong enough). If your not the kind of rider that is on the limiter constantly you could potentials get away with reusing the stock springs but it is a gamble. Be sure to replace all of your keepers. Check for wear in your guides too.
Very informative and enjoyable.
Thank you
Another great video!
Thank you again
The knock could be the big-end bearing or the one-way bearing on the flywheel...........
I didn’t feel anything weird in the one way. Sounds like a big end bearing but absolutely no indication of fine metal in the oil or filter.
@@restoroosterohv OK, but what concerns me is that it looks like somebody had already been in there and cleaned up the screens and filter. That oil was WAY too clean. Almost as if it had just been replaced......
@jakeslouw3416 it was just replaced however the bearing would still be “shedding” metal and even with a change it would never be fully gone and there was nothing in the filter. I put a lot of miles on this bike before inspection. I agree with you that it is louder than normal. My customer did not want to rip into the engine at this time. We’ll see…
You did mention it was running lean. So, that could cause the big end bearing to overheat, right ? Maybe it's not quite yet to the point where it starts shedding metal but it could start to get loose. Maybe there is some play there.
Running lean will damage a top end, not a bottom end on a four stroke
So you say that the bottom end is good but, it very well could be the big end of the rod witch is bottom end.
I agree, it certainly sounds like the big end bearing however, when they start to go and make noise like that, there will always be signs in the oil and filter consisting of fine metallic dust.
@@restoroosterohv I have a Yamaha warrior that had the same noise under load. I finally rebuilt the complete engine and the rod was loose. Owned it four years B4 the rebuild always changed oil and never had metal or metal residue in the oil or filter. I'm only saying it because I experienced it.
@benschlack5814 thanks for your input. I guess time will tell.
@@restoroosterohv Amen
I would have pulled the flywheel to make sure there wasn't anything out of the ordinary with the timing chain or the slides !!
Thank you for your comment. Pulling the flywheel would be irrelevant as the timing chain and slides are on the opposite side of the engine.
Could that be uncle Rodney knocking in the bottom end....
Sure sounds like it but absolutely no signs of bearing failure in the oil, on the drain plug or in the filter
Another great video!!!
Thank you Joel