A wonderful if not celebratory video. We've all been there! I too can appreciate the relief when the diagnosis requires a creative solution - and it proves to be correct! I had a very annoying crunching going 1st to 2nd gear. After a rebuild, new clutch, release bearing and to be safe, a new fork, the crunch was still there! Only to establish, that it was the fxxxxng handbrake drum!!! I can very much relate to the celebrations at around 6 minutes and 20 seconds. After replacing the handbrake drum, I cracked open a bottle of Chairmans Reserve Spiced Rum, both to celebrate, but also cause I was fooxxx freezeing laying on the bl00dy floor! Best wishes. I enjoy the vids, especially since I should be working......
Thanks for your kind words Daniel, much appreciated. There are three main reasons I keep doing these crazy projects, firstly its fun, secondly I love getting the feedback from videos and third, its so nice to see the result of all the hard work. Well done diagnosing the odd issue with yours that's often half the battle. Thanks again Daniel, and I'm glad to be a distraction from work :)
IIRC all pre series3 boxes had no syncromesh on either first or second gears. This meant you needed to double declutch both when changing down and changing up these gears. Many will be familiar using this technique to change down, but going up, from 1st to second takes a little practice.
@@royfishall6482 I've really enjoyed messing around and trying to get clean gear shifts when slowing down. Not always successful, but definitely fun. :)
I was initially impressed by your adaption to have both left and right hand drive in the same vehicle, then realised you'd just flipped the in-car video footage. Looking forward to seeing your cost/time breakdown, really good video series.
Thanks for your kind comments Richard. I get a lot out of the feedback, keeps me motivated. Yeah the flipped image is quite annoying, it's not intentional I just haven't figure out how to stop it doing that.....
Since the old series LRs are part-time fourwheel drive, normally driven by the rear wheels the rear diff wears much more than the front which normally get little use under power on the road. What I did with my 150,000 mile series2 SWB was to swap over the front for the noisy worn rear diff; this involves a fair amout of work at the front, but the rear is easy. The diff worked fine on the front for the time FWD was needed. And yes they do rotate in the correct direction, they are identical. Another dodge we did when trialing them in competition in the early 1970s, was to fit a spare locked diff on the front (weld up the spider gears) and fit freewheeling hubs for road use. Off road this aided traction immensly, the downside was that on the road, steering became impossibly heavy. You only needed to unlock one hub for a short stint on hard sufaces between stages, when it was then in 3 wheel drive!
Thats really cool, and a lovely cheap way of getting a locked diff, very clever. I had thought about swapping them front to back, but decided against it in the end. (Probably put off by the all the work involved in the front axle). :) Thabks for you comment, much appreciated
Thanks for your kind comments, this is high praise coming from an experienced land rover man like yourself. I'm most grateful, comments like this keep me very motivated. Thanks for all your content too, I've often looked in for tips on various bits during my work.
Top tip, ditch the free wheeling hubs, they are the devil's work and cause hundreds and hundreds of pounds of damage the the steering, save you no fuel and look shit, oh and weaken the drive train, apart from that they are great! At least leave them in 4x4 position, then you might be OK......just my humble opinion. Great Video by the way. Cheers
Yeah I've heard this else where. Sounds like a good idea and I'm on board. I suggested binning (or selling) them to the owner but wanted to keep them. I think I did at least make sure they were locked for the a good portion of the first drive.
The Fairy Engineering freewheeling/lockable hubs (made into the late 70's IIRC) we used were pretty well unbreakable in my experience. I don't know how they would damage steering or transmission. The only way you could do something nasty was to use four low in first gear with the hubs unlocked and be pulling a heavy trailer, or a tree down or something, then you'd snap a rear half shaft before anything else went ping. I agree they didn't seem to save fuel though.@@lozl
@@royfishall6482 my understanding was that with the hibs unlocked there was no rotation in the front axle at all so no oil being thrown up to the upper Swivel joint. I believe this can lead to premature failure but this is only something I've heard.
I agree, but all that is need is to lock them now and again. Leave them for years and do thousands of miles with them unlocked and maybe it would be an issue. But I never encountered a problem, and I must have put 75, 000 miles on them. @@lozl
Ah.... Maybe that's why my seriers 2a wants to kangaroo when I put it in 4x4 mode.... I bought it as an unfinished project, so maybe the ratios don't match.. 🤔
Oooooo, yeah interesting. With it being so close to thw original ratio it will be hard to measure just from counting turns of the Prop and the wheels, but I suppose with enough turns it could be determined
@@lozl i have the same weird rumble atm im tryna work out where its coming from 😂 im hopin its not my rear axel coz i only just put a shortend rear prop on as its a sailsbury rear axel that the guy before me had put on jist before selling🥴 🤦
Would not have thought of that. Well done, lesson learned.
Thanks for the comment, much appreciated
A wonderful if not celebratory video. We've all been there! I too can appreciate the relief when the diagnosis requires a creative solution - and it proves to be correct! I had a very annoying crunching going 1st to 2nd gear. After a rebuild, new clutch, release bearing and to be safe, a new fork, the crunch was still there! Only to establish, that it was the fxxxxng handbrake drum!!! I can very much relate to the celebrations at around 6 minutes and 20 seconds. After replacing the handbrake drum, I cracked open a bottle of Chairmans Reserve Spiced Rum, both to celebrate, but also cause I was fooxxx freezeing laying on the bl00dy floor! Best wishes. I enjoy the vids, especially since I should be working......
Thanks for your kind words Daniel, much appreciated. There are three main reasons I keep doing these crazy projects, firstly its fun, secondly I love getting the feedback from videos and third, its so nice to see the result of all the hard work. Well done diagnosing the odd issue with yours that's often half the battle.
Thanks again Daniel, and I'm glad to be a distraction from work :)
IIRC all pre series3 boxes had no syncromesh on either first or second gears. This meant you needed to double declutch both when changing down and changing up these gears. Many will be familiar using this technique to change down, but going up, from 1st to second takes a little practice.
@@royfishall6482 I've really enjoyed messing around and trying to get clean gear shifts when slowing down. Not always successful, but definitely fun. :)
I was initially impressed by your adaption to have both left and right hand drive in the same vehicle, then realised you'd just flipped the in-car video footage. Looking forward to seeing your cost/time breakdown, really good video series.
Thanks for your kind comments Richard. I get a lot out of the feedback, keeps me motivated.
Yeah the flipped image is quite annoying, it's not intentional I just haven't figure out how to stop it doing that.....
Since the old series LRs are part-time fourwheel drive, normally driven by the rear wheels the rear diff wears much more than the front which normally get little use under power on the road.
What I did with my 150,000 mile series2 SWB was to swap over the front for the noisy worn rear diff; this involves a fair amout of work at the front, but the rear is easy. The diff worked fine on the front for the time FWD was needed.
And yes they do rotate in the correct direction, they are identical.
Another dodge we did when trialing them in competition in the early 1970s, was to fit a spare locked diff on the front (weld up the spider gears) and fit freewheeling hubs for road use.
Off road this aided traction immensly, the downside was that on the road, steering became impossibly heavy. You only needed to unlock one hub for a short stint on hard sufaces between stages, when it was then in 3 wheel drive!
Thats really cool, and a lovely cheap way of getting a locked diff, very clever.
I had thought about swapping them front to back, but decided against it in the end. (Probably put off by the all the work involved in the front axle). :)
Thabks for you comment, much appreciated
I like the enthusiasm 😊
Thanks 😊 glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for the comment
Awesome video!
Many thanks. Glad you enjoyed the video
Well done that chap 😎👍
Thanks for your kind comments, this is high praise coming from an experienced land rover man like yourself. I'm most grateful, comments like this keep me very motivated.
Thanks for all your content too, I've often looked in for tips on various bits during my work.
@@lozl one of the best bits about the Landrover and TH-cam community- sharing knowledge and experience. Keep well. Mat
Its pretty cool, there is a duch a massive following with plenty of knowledge and experience.
Top tip, ditch the free wheeling hubs, they are the devil's work and cause hundreds and hundreds of pounds of damage the the steering, save you no fuel and look shit, oh and weaken the drive train, apart from that they are great! At least leave them in 4x4 position, then you might be OK......just my humble opinion. Great Video by the way. Cheers
Yeah I've heard this else where. Sounds like a good idea and I'm on board. I suggested binning (or selling) them to the owner but wanted to keep them. I think I did at least make sure they were locked for the a good portion of the first drive.
The Fairy Engineering freewheeling/lockable hubs (made into the late 70's IIRC) we used were pretty well unbreakable in my experience. I don't know how they would damage steering or transmission. The only way you could do something nasty was to use four low in first gear with the hubs unlocked and be pulling a heavy trailer, or a tree down or something, then you'd snap a rear half shaft before anything else went ping. I agree they didn't seem to save fuel though.@@lozl
@@royfishall6482 my understanding was that with the hibs unlocked there was no rotation in the front axle at all so no oil being thrown up to the upper Swivel joint. I believe this can lead to premature failure but this is only something I've heard.
I agree, but all that is need is to lock them now and again. Leave them for years and do thousands of miles with them unlocked and maybe it would be an issue. But I never encountered a problem, and I must have put 75, 000 miles on them. @@lozl
@@royfishall6482 fair enough, yeah your reasoning makes perfect sense.
Ah.... Maybe that's why my seriers 2a wants to kangaroo when I put it in 4x4 mode.... I bought it as an unfinished project, so maybe the ratios don't match.. 🤔
Oooooo, yeah interesting. With it being so close to thw original ratio it will be hard to measure just from counting turns of the Prop and the wheels, but I suppose with enough turns it could be determined
Id just grt another for front lol
Yeah that's.certainly.an option.
@@lozl i have the same weird rumble atm im tryna work out where its coming from 😂 im hopin its not my rear axel coz i only just put a shortend rear prop on as its a sailsbury rear axel that the guy before me had put on jist before selling🥴 🤦
@@macauleysamualkent2319 hmmm, fingers crossed its something simple. Is it time.to remove the rear prop and go drive it FWD to see?
@@lozl lol yea last time i did that tho o blew the front diff😂, we shall see tho gotta do it, its me daily car🥴
@@macauleysamualkent2319 hmmm, I imagine that was because it was failing already??? I guess a healthy front diff ought to be ok