Thanks for making these videos. I've just replaced a noisy diff / final drive that was driven almost dry for a while. I'll be looking into rebuilding it so I'll look forward to your next video in this series. Great tool tips as well! Hope you'll touch on what kinds of noises usually means which parts are worn. That would be helpful.
Irwin's ordered....as one cannot have enough tools...great video, Chris...might have to order some 'engineers blue' for no other reason than bragging rights..
I already ordered my pot Malcolm, it's so tempting to open the tin but the blue stuff inside is keen to get out so open with caution, all over my hands!! btw, hows ya hand Chris?
Hi I am converting to locking Diffs and need some advice. I have a pair of front and back 24 spline Banjo Diffs on my 1991 RRC. I have acquired a pair of 10 spline ARB 4 PIN Diffs from a donor off-roading 1991 RRC. Can i take apart all diffs and interchange the sun gears from my 24 spline Diffs to the ARB locking DIFS? They all carry the same ratio. Best, Romel
Good for anythirng really,.... but they work hardest on Land Rovers. Thing is they are really durable. perhaps expensive initially but in the long run - An excellent investment
Здравствуйте! Вас опять беспокоит Антоха!!! Не могли бы вы дать размеры иголчетого подшипника вторичного вала. Или подскожите где его заказать. Заранее благодарю.
Great subject Chris, maybe confession time for me, need to sort my front FD as it started growling under load on the way back from buying it (160ish miles). there's visible front pinion bearing movement. confession?, yeah, removed front prop and drove it 2x4 for a while until the head gasket started puffin', probably 500 miles, head hung low!. This subject is therefore very welcome, in rebuilding and setting up.
Nice manual! I really like your explanation style. But I'd like to point out, that your shown method of getting the meshing marks using the piece of wood seems to be a little odd. I'm totally sure, you're aware of that, but it may cause some misunderstanding: Either turn your pinion in both directions or first turn the pinion and then your crown wheel but in the same direction. It's not the turning direction but the load direction that makes the change between drive side and coasting side. Thats's why you shouldn't feed the crown wheel, when turning the pinion. Best way of course is a driven testbed. In your own garage you may fasten the housing to your bench and use an improvised handle to turn the pinion in a continuous way. Should give you better meshing marks due to less load shifting. Cheers!
Great video Chris as always, looking forward to learning more about the Diffs/Final drives. Mine are old and i suspect they both have excess back lash and need some attention, hopefully your videos will help to make the manual clearer for me to deal with it myself.
Found this channel recently and been new to Land Rovers I’ve had loads of great tips and also a pretty large bill now for tools I’ve seen here lol... anyway I can’t find a good video on how to change battery leads or ends properly just the usual cut it off screw on a shitty $3 coupling and I wondered if you could do a video on how to do it properly with thanks!!!
I usually use the screw on type unless they are crimped then they get crimped. Never solder battery terminals because of potential heat that can occur at the terminals. Glad you are enjoying the videos. There hours and hours of info for you over 500 plus vids. Enjoy.
LRTV not too many months ago I paid to have some diff guards fitted because of lack of confidence but over time I’ve done little bits but seriously of all the videos I’ve found at TH-cam yours have been the best easy to understand explanations and said in a way the lay person can understand... Sunday battery terminal needs sorting (screw type after last comment) then fuel filter housing is cracked and leaking so swapping that over early next week then EGR, swapping front bumper to heavy duty steel and putting steering guard on. Not so long ago I would have never thought ‘I’ could do that now it doesn’t seem impossible. First real test is brakes though rears are seized I think or not griping correctly so I’m going to replace the lot myself
Never knew it was called Prussian blue we always called it engineers blue.
Do you have a copy of the Puma technical manual you can share, or provide the source link? Many thanks.
Can i use a p38 4pin center with the td5 crown in a long nose case?
I like this technical stuff, nicely explained thanks for posting 👍🏻😀
You're welcome. The manuals are a bit vague o this subject so I'll fill in the blanks.
How did you get 24 splines planetary gears for a series diff?
Tried this to no avail, can't get enough heat into the caliper Bolt so I'll have to invest ina hotter gun. All part of the learning curve.
Yeah, this one was a SoaB. Ended up heating the part the bolt screws into which worked with not too much heat. I used a Rothenburger torch.
Thanks for making these videos. I've just replaced a noisy diff / final drive that was driven almost dry for a while. I'll be looking into rebuilding it so I'll look forward to your next video in this series. Great tool tips as well! Hope you'll touch on what kinds of noises usually means which parts are worn. That would be helpful.
HUm. that's a tall order but i'll see what i can do.
Irwin's ordered....as one cannot have enough tools...great video, Chris...might have to order some 'engineers blue' for no other reason than bragging rights..
I already ordered my pot Malcolm, it's so tempting to open the tin but the blue stuff inside is keen to get out so open with caution, all over my hands!! btw, hows ya hand Chris?
Hi I am converting to locking Diffs and need some advice. I have a pair of front and back 24 spline Banjo Diffs on my 1991 RRC. I have acquired a pair of 10 spline ARB 4 PIN Diffs from a donor off-roading 1991 RRC. Can i take apart all diffs and interchange the sun gears from my 24 spline Diffs to the ARB locking DIFS? They all carry the same ratio. Best, Romel
Irwins are a must have tool for anyone who works on a land rover
Good for anythirng really,.... but they work hardest on Land Rovers. Thing is they are really durable. perhaps expensive initially but in the long run - An excellent investment
Good stuff mate, this will help a lot of people.
Thanks Chris. This is most helpful. Hopefully can successfully strip out my Salisbury and rebuild it.
Great stuff Chris. I promise, really i do, not to play with any 'diffs' till ive finished watching the lot!. lol. Cheers mate. :)
Здравствуйте! Вас опять беспокоит Антоха!!! Не могли бы вы дать размеры иголчетого подшипника вторичного вала. Или подскожите где его заказать. Заранее благодарю.
Great video Chris very informative
Cheers bud. You should know how I roll by now. lol
Brilliant I’m just about to start doing my D1 front axle
Great video, cleared up some doubts I had about the position of the marks on the crown wheel. Thank you.
А можно рем.комплект подшипников.
Soon.
Great subject Chris, maybe confession time for me, need to sort my front FD as it started growling under load on the way back from buying it (160ish miles). there's visible front pinion bearing movement. confession?, yeah, removed front prop and drove it 2x4 for a while until the head gasket started puffin', probably 500 miles, head hung low!. This subject is therefore very welcome, in rebuilding and setting up.
we've all done that I am sure. Take a prop off and still get around.
If I wanted to put an LSD in the front of my 110, how would I convert to 24 spline?
"Only with 24 spline side gears" www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/limited-slip-differentials/ashcroft-atb.html
Very interesting, thank you.
Nice manual! I really like your explanation style. But I'd like to point out, that your shown method of getting the meshing marks using the piece of wood seems to be a little odd. I'm totally sure, you're aware of that, but it may cause some misunderstanding: Either turn your pinion in both directions or first turn the pinion and then your crown wheel but in the same direction. It's not the turning direction but the load direction that makes the change between drive side and coasting side. Thats's why you shouldn't feed the crown wheel, when turning the pinion. Best way of course is a driven testbed. In your own garage you may fasten the housing to your bench and use an improvised handle to turn the pinion in a continuous way. Should give you better meshing marks due to less load shifting.
Cheers!
yeah looks a bit cack-handed.
Great video Chris as always, looking forward to learning more about the Diffs/Final drives. Mine are old and i suspect they both have excess back lash and need some attention, hopefully your videos will help to make the manual clearer for me to deal with it myself.
Good stuff. As I say. Expect the worst and hope for the best.
The yellow marking compound only works here in the colonies, by design.
Probably the blue just works for me because........ [fill in the blank]. lol
Brilliant, you are the best. Look forward to next video.
thanks!
Found this channel recently and been new to Land Rovers I’ve had loads of great tips and also a pretty large bill now for tools I’ve seen here lol... anyway I can’t find a good video on how to change battery leads or ends properly just the usual cut it off screw on a shitty $3 coupling and I wondered if you could do a video on how to do it properly with thanks!!!
I usually use the screw on type unless they are crimped then they get crimped. Never solder battery terminals because of potential heat that can occur at the terminals. Glad you are enjoying the videos. There hours and hours of info for you over 500 plus vids. Enjoy.
LRTV not too many months ago I paid to have some diff guards fitted because of lack of confidence but over time I’ve done little bits but seriously of all the videos I’ve found at TH-cam yours have been the best easy to understand explanations and said in a way the lay person can understand... Sunday battery terminal needs sorting (screw type after last comment) then fuel filter housing is cracked and leaking so swapping that over early next week then EGR, swapping front bumper to heavy duty steel and putting steering guard on. Not so long ago I would have never thought ‘I’ could do that now it doesn’t seem impossible. First real test is brakes though rears are seized I think or not griping correctly so I’m going to replace the lot myself
whats that sound ? had headphone on and shit the life out of me lol at 6:38
air ratchet - to cover up a swear word. i didn't have the censor bleep in my sound effects stock
Irwins are the tools you own but hope you never use they're worth their weight in gold
Even if you never have to use them. They are there to ward off evil sprits lol
We used Irwins just yesterday, nothing else would do the job 👍🏻