Watch LR TIME if you want to know about 5w 40 and snapped cranks. it;s a oilway drilling / case harding problem, I've had three 3.0 RRS two of them for five years all towing a caravan with no problem but now have a L405 SD V8
More people should understand the importance of doing a regular oil test like that. It's like a blood test that can tell you way in advance issues that may arise due to poor diet for instance.
Strongly recommend Not Using 5 W 30 engine oil in your 3.0 Diesel- Its to light viscosity of an oil for that engine ..................Yes I know JLR recommend it but they are Clowns. Go up to a 5 W 40 C3 Oil its much better for the 3.0 D. IMHO your Oil analysis was a waste of money ! You would be better off removing the Oil Filter and checking inside the pleats for Metal particles - Thats the 100% accurate way to assess the condition of your engine. I have carried out dozens of OA tests over the years for fleet operators and when an engine fails like the crank on the 3.0 D you don't get any notice or contaminated oil before it happens.
Here we go... Show us your PhD in engineering otherwise spare the rest of us from your uneducated guesswork. As if the most common issue that causes crankshaft failure isn't oil contamination followed by overfill. Using any oil grade not recommended by the manufacturer is plain stupid unless the car is high mileage and you're trying to reduce oil consumption and you don't care about the additional stress you're putting the engine through. And if you're really going to wait until metal parts become trapped in the oil filter to act, you better have a money tree in your garden.
It was serviced, yes. I wanted to see if thre were any mineral contents to the oil, above those of the oil itself. It is aimed to give an insight into engine/component wear
If there was any contamination in the oil before the service, then the evidence has been flushed away, pardon the pun. I believe this is the case with most used vehicles The old saying, you payes your money and take a chance.
Not sure about your oil,but they installed the steering wheel on the wrong side. 😂my f type is coming out of warranty, do es the f type have a tube that that vacuum would work on. I'm not looking forward to paying dealer prices for oil changes. Can you do a video on it?
Surely, if theres a 'tiny' amount of anything that shouldnt be there then the concern is how it got there, over time tiny becomes big.
Watch LR TIME if you want to know about 5w 40 and snapped cranks. it;s a oilway drilling / case harding problem, I've had three 3.0 RRS two of them for five years all towing a caravan with no problem but now have a L405 SD V8
Or just avoid the crank snapping issues and buy the 4.4 SDV8.
More people should understand the importance of doing a regular oil test like that. It's like a blood test that can tell you way in advance issues that may arise due to poor diet for instance.
What a load of crap ...............laughable the feebly comparison between engine oil and a blood test.
@@larrysimon1 did you find us your PhD degree yet? 😂
@@JWL-UK Read my reply you clown. Yes I have my Engineering Degree 👍Where is yours ?
@@JWL-UK did you find your PhD degree yet? 😂 or is it imaginary ? Key Board Warrior
Folk don't change oil at all. Never mind doing tests😂😂😂
Strongly recommend Not Using 5 W 30 engine oil in your 3.0 Diesel- Its to light viscosity of an oil for that engine ..................Yes I know JLR recommend it but they are Clowns. Go up to a 5 W 40 C3 Oil its much better for the 3.0 D.
IMHO your Oil analysis was a waste of money ! You would be better off removing the Oil Filter and checking inside the pleats for Metal particles - Thats the 100% accurate way to assess the condition of your engine.
I have carried out dozens of OA tests over the years for fleet operators and when an engine fails like the crank on the 3.0 D you don't get any notice or contaminated oil before it happens.
Here we go... Show us your PhD in engineering otherwise spare the rest of us from your uneducated guesswork. As if the most common issue that causes crankshaft failure isn't oil contamination followed by overfill. Using any oil grade not recommended by the manufacturer is plain stupid unless the car is high mileage and you're trying to reduce oil consumption and you don't care about the additional stress you're putting the engine through. And if you're really going to wait until metal parts become trapped in the oil filter to act, you better have a money tree in your garden.
@@JWL-UK Who is the "Us" your imaginary friends ?
Good TH-cam my friend
Thank you very much
Presumably the car was serviced when you recently bought it, if not and you’re concerned why not just do an oil change?
It was serviced, yes. I wanted to see if thre were any mineral contents to the oil, above those of the oil itself. It is aimed to give an insight into engine/component wear
If there was any contamination in the oil before the service, then the evidence has been flushed away, pardon the pun.
I believe this is the case with most used vehicles
The old saying, you payes your money and take a chance.
Not sure about your oil,but they installed the steering wheel on the wrong side. 😂my f type is coming out of warranty, do es the f type have a tube that that vacuum would work on. I'm not looking forward to paying dealer prices for oil changes. Can you do a video on it?
Haha! Yes, I believe the F Type has the same tube in the centre of the filler neck. I've yet to check
Try saying Timoxeline Barbebutenol #johnnyenglish
Haha! No chance!