I used standard Castrol10w-40 oil in my 2003 Suzuki DR650 for ten years with 34,000+ miles. Broke second gear going to work one morning. When a mechanic tore the engine down for repair he was highly impressed with how clean the internal parts were. Trans break was from years of wheelie rides. So a great oil.
the true difference is friction modifiers put Into oils. car oils have the friction modifiers since friction in a crank case is bad where as motorcycle oils don't contain the modifiers since your clutch needs friction to operate correctly
Noah Rowe: Not all car oils have friction modifiers in them. Check the small API doughnut stamp on the back of the bottle to find out. If it DOES, it will have "resource or energy conserving" written in the bottom half of of the doughnut stamp. If it DOES NOT that space will be blank and is an acceptable oil for a wet clutch motorcycle. As an example, in this video you can see the API doughnut stamp on the right side of the center bottle when he turns it around. The bottom space of the doughnut is blank indicating there is NO friction modifier in the oil and he correctly approves this car oil for a motorcycle. He should have referenced this stamp, but didn't. There was also the JASO MA2 rating on the motorcycle specific oil that he also failed to bring peoples attention to. Both of these rating systems, API and JASO, are important to know about when purchasing oil for a motorcycle.
I just bought one that says it has friction modifiers. But it doesn't have that on the bottom donut. Hmm I guess I'm good then? :) Even if it is bad what is the worst that can happen riding with this for a few thousand miles
I have owned and ridden 32 different motorcycles over 43 years. I have used car oil in all of them and never had a problem, never. Basic cheap car oil, bike oil is just a scam, there was no such oil many years ago. Oils are Oils.
I would argue that if you have a different motorcycle every year and a half, you may not necessarily know long term effects of using cheap oil vs oil designed for motorcycles. Many years ago there was not specialty oil for motorcycles, this is true. That is the exact definition of technology.
Chad Savick I can agree with what you are saying. In the80's I had a kawasaki Z650, put well over 140,000 km on that bike, used car oil, I changed every 5,000km. Never had clutch slip, or any other oil related problems. Just my personal experience.
Thanks for the video... I just want to add my 2 cents. In South Africa a solid motor oil that hundreds of thousands if not millions of people (pro and public) swear by is Castrol GTX, high mileage. It is a basic mineral oil with a few additives. It has been used extensively in cross-Africa trips both professionally and for the regular old Joe, whether it be motorcycle or car. My local mech who does economy runs for Honda on the bikes and is highly involved and renowned in the "two wheel" business, swears by good old Castrol GTX. Since the early 80s it has been the oil of choice for most sane thinking people across South Africa, if you take your old Landrover from the Okavango Delta in the South to Egypt in the North of Africa, beit bike or 4 wheels. And so my Honda VT 750 S gets nothing but Castrol GTX "High mileage". Proven over millions of track miles on a bike, to millions of rotten dirt roads in a Landrover Defender at 100+ degrees days on end. Certainly no snake oil...You WILL get 160k miles on your twin cruiser if you look after her and lube her up with Castrol GTX, high mileage - for cars!
I just put 5w30 “resource conserving” Mobil 1 advanced full synthetic in my SV650SF. Have 50 miles on the oil so far, as well as significantly taller gearing (17%) and have not experienced any clutch slippage. This car oil has almost double the shear pressure resistance compared to the bike oil that came out of it according to the 540 rat blog. The Mobil 1 motorcycle oil I was using in one of my other bikes is $11+ a quart, AND it still has less shear resistance than the car oil. The car oil is $27 out the door for 5 quarts. I will be experimenting with more car oils in my 3 bikes in the future.
@@yasiin_ In my case it worked. I did 5700 miles with that oil, including a track day without issue, but I'm using various motorcycle oils in it again. The SV has pretty heavy clutch springs, so is less susceptible to slippage to begin with.
@@yasiin_ I would be careful with CVTs since the difference between clutch slip and CVT variation can be vague. That and it depends on if you have a wet or dry clutch.
@@Daschickenify its dry clutch some people use car or diesel for the same bike that i owned they say its good but im not really sure yet never try it before
I put Rotella-T 15w-40 in just about everything I own...It's imo one of the best oils still available for purchse. (purchase it by the barrel =D) 81' CX500, 82' CB450T, 77' CB550, 76' CB750, 72' TS125 (trans oil only =p), and one of my cars, a 1993 Nissan 240sx with a RB20DET. For applications where WOT is more common than a closed throttle, I use Brad Penn 20w-50. Nice channel.
I think you were right when you said there were no specific motorcycle oils when that bike was produced. I certainly don't remember them when I started riding. I have a 1985 Honda TLR250 and I run a friction modified mineral car (similar to what would have been available in the day) to get the clutch to work right. The modern motorcycle specific oils I tried did not work on the clutch on that bike.
I don't think people account for the fact that oil today is almost certainly formulated differently than it was in 1982. All the friction modified, energy conserving stuff didn't exist in 1982. Today that standard for motorcycles is JASO MA. That is what I will buy.
If you have a wet clutch, choose an oil formulated for wet clutches. However, I have seen a few beater bikes with cheap automotive oil, supertech Walmart brand, where everything was fine. But I have also seen 2 or 3 with cheap oil, that caused clutch slippage. Clutch steels and friction disks were good looking, but clutch was slipping. Sprayed off the disks and plates with brake clean, reinstalled and added wet clutch safe oil. Saved the customer a decent chunk of change. I just dont risk it lol.
The wet clutch is the main difference, engines are very similar, but the clutch may require a little different additive. It never has in past decades, but.....
The point is : 1. Most PCMO IS NOT suitable for wet clutch motorcycle that can burn out the clutch. 2. Most PCMO IS ALWAYS suitable for dry clutch motorcycle like scooter, with 1 condition ->> dont speed up, because PCMO built for low RPM engine. am I right?? please correct if im wrong.
I have a 2006 gsxr 750. I've over 30k on the clock. Done all my oil changes since 10k when i purchased it second hand. Anyway since then I have never bought specific motorcycle oil. I tried t6 Rotella 5w40 and 10w40 Mobile 1,and run that and change every 3k. It doesn't have a single tick,knock,or clutch problem. Anyway instead of a $40.00ish oil change, I pay $20.00. Anyway until I have a clutch problem or tick. I will be using the same oil.
Here in India Castrol GO motorcycle oil costs only 200INR, which is barely 3 dollars and car engine oils costs around 12 dollars. May be because of small engine capacity of bikes which is usually 125cc.
Just did my oil change with that and the bike ran fine for 100kms. no clutch slip, easy gear changes and no strange noise. Best oil. Run it in my car and now the motorcycle
I use car oil for my motorcycle and it runs very smooth and last longer also. I use Mobil 1 ultimate 0w40 synthetic oil. The best oil I ever try beside Motul. Btw my motorcycle is an Automatic motorcycle. So doesn't have a problem with the clutch. Don't use car oil for a wet clutch motorcycle
Energy conserving auto oil usually has moly and other friction modifiers that will make a clutch slip. Its a good idea to just stick with motorcycle oil, its readily available, not hard to find, and not that expensive. Walmart website has several and will ship them right to your house. Castrol Go, Castrol Actevo synthetic blend motorcycle oil, Valvoline Motorcycle, Quicksilver motorcycle, Mobil 1 motorcycle, SuperTech motorcycle oil, and some others. If you have a Honda dealership close by they sell Honda GN4 oil for a good price. Same with Yamaha, they sell Yamalube for a decent price. Shell Rotella 15W40, available everywhere for cheap, has the JASO MA motorcycle wet clutch certification on the back of the label (the only diesel oil that carries this certification) and is used by many people in motorcycles. Motorcycle oils have special base stocks that are sheer resistant. They start out at a 40 weight oil, and will stay in grade for much longer than car oil. A car oil 10W40 is likely to sheer to a 20 weight in short order, compared to a manufactured and engineered product that is specially designed for the sheering actions of a motorcycle gear box. If your motorcycle has a separate gear box that has its own gear oil source, then you can use whatever oil you can find that meets the specs of the bike manufacturer.
Newer oils since the early 90s have a bunch of anti ware additives. They can interfere with the friction plate of a wet clutch. It’s true you may never see the negative effects if you ride dress up on the weekends.
I was told 20w-50 conventional oil in motor cycle engines is ok. the only difference if the primary chain trans oil, wet clutch will take a different oil for that purpose.
I have two 80s Honda twins (bigger CMs). Each bike takes 3.5L+ of oil at change time. So that's 7+ Litres. Castrol and other companies ONLY sell their motorcycle oil in 1 L bottles - which is a huge waste of plastic right there. And typically the cheapest I can find it is $6.49 CAD per bottle. Meanwhile, I can find conventional oils several dollars cheaper per bottle, and/or in larger sizes. I'm thinking about switching to Diesel oil, since the properties of that seem to favor a wet clutch and its widely available.
My Arctic cat 500 atv calls for 0w40 bike oil which obviously is synthetic only. That crap is $60 a gallon at the dealer. Funny thing is the same engine 3 years earlier in my 2014, same model just calls for 10w30 conventional. Nothing changed with the bike, they just wanted to sell more expensive oil that wasn't readily available at Walmart or general auto supply places, so people would be more likely to just get it at the dealer and pay the cost.
On my 1st bike, I used car oil by mistake, and I could feel something wrong right away, down gear was harder, there’s some slippage on acceleration. Brought the bike back, the mechanic changed oil and filter, and the problem went away. What an embarrassment.
Man day got you in the bag motorcycle company’s just want you to spend more money you really think a peace of metal is going to know that different off what kind of oil you put on it or brand really?
Car oil in a motorcycle can cause a wet clutch in a motorcycle to slip. Oils designed for motorcycles seem to not cause clutch slip. It took me years of bitter experience from slipping clutches to find this out. My Haynes Manuel in the 70s recommended GTX. But castrol keep improving the engine oil for Car Engines and thus years of trying to sort slipping M/C clutches. Until one day in the 80s I bought an oil designed for M/Cs and no more clutch slip. Why? was this information not made available, it would have saved me allot of grief and wasted time trying to remedy clutch slip. Steve
Don't blame you for being bothered on how they do not post clearly the changes or special properties. Then what gets me is when they do it's coded or hidden in practically undecipherable statements. Most people appreciate knowing what they are buying beforehand!!
Funny i put 5w30 in my drz400sm..been told to put 10w40..and i went to 10w30..work nice...well i took appart the motor to pu a kick start...so cleaned all..
Well... the CX 500 was built around the oil available during the late '70s... so my guess is that the normal old fashioned Castrol GTX car oil will work just fine! I use the 20W50 because the motor is old now and the 20W50 will do a bit better with heat.
In the same way jet fuel and diesel fuel are exactly the same thing. When it comes to the magician advertisers at the petroleum corporations I always choose the cheapest option (unless it's 87 octane gas that stuff sucks in old vehicles)
Thank you for replying. There seems to be so many different schools of thought about engine oil and the difficult task is sorting out the truths from the myths. Apart from religion I don't know any other subject that has so many different points of view : )
I think it all comes down to those who are willing to use their motorcycle as a Guinea Pig for different car and diesel oils. Sometimes the oil company saves you the trouble and gets some of their car oils certified by JASO as an MA oil. Similar debate in the mower community about whether to buy mower specific oil or use car/diesel engine oil.
2000 Mobil 1 tried to push the synthetic on everyone , how much better it is , my brother got a 2001 and I had my 1986 harley he will only use synthetic oil , I have used conventional oil in both my bikes what it comes down to is price , i have 7 oil changes my brother has 3 at 21,000 i save about 45 bucks in 21,000 miles as long as the oil is changed on time you can run whatever oil you wish , the longer it last better for the environment less crude used . I use Castrol 20/50 conventional
I like my Harley the engine oil never reaches the clutch cuz my transmission and engine are two separate things my clutch only comes into play with primary oil which makes it extremely expensive for an oil change cuz I have engine oil transmission oil primary case oil and I have to replace primary cover gasket and drain plug
I agree with your point on the difference in price between the two. Quite honestly, would you pay a few extra bucks to rest easy knowing that something will not cause you any issues? At the very least, it'll be helpful in ruling out certain issues with your bike should you have them.
It probably comes down to competing with other car oil companies and the supply and demand ratio between car oil and motorcycle oil. But who can say....
matey: I think it's crazy to pay extra for something you know you are not getting. Many conventional(mineral) car oils do not contain this additive that damages motorcycle clutches. Most of the time when you buy motorcycle oil you can find a car oil offering acceptable features and benefits at a much lower price. All I can say is I am glad that I've been made aware that there are some oils out there now that will have a friction reducing modifier in them and equally glad to know there are some that promise they don't.
I am also very glad that I have been made aware of such additives. It resolved a very frustrating slipping clutch problem that I have had for years with my old Norton Commando. I previously used regular automotive engine oil in the primary chaincase not realizing that not all oil grades are made equal.
The problem with car oil in a motorcycle is detergents, any bike that runs the same oil through its engine and transmission or clutch must have motorcycle oil as they are non detergent oils which will not break down clutch/transmission components
Wtf, I expected this guy to actually do some tests and not just give his thoughts on the subject. Motorcycle oil is 6 bucks?! Maybe in 2017 but each quart is over 7 - 10+ bucks now. I can also read sticker labels, test data is what I'm looking for. Yes, the music is to damn loud.
I use PCMO 10w40 APISN/CF,ACEA A3/B4 on my honda 110 4T scooter, factory recomended oil is 10w30 JASO MB, feel smoother than factory oil, and my engine valve look clean from deposit. is it any effect for my engine later?
the motercycle oil can withstand more compression load or between gear teeth!! without the molecular structure breaking down as much thus providing more protection for your gearbox.... etc...fact!.
Anyone who wants to put car oil in their bike, yr bike wont blow up, it will run for a long time, but you are prematurely wearing out yr whole engine, slowly losing compression & power, also prematurely wearing out yr clutch, JUST USE A SYNTHETIC MOTORCYCLE OIL, it will be cheaper in the long run ........
So a API SM oil is cheaper than a lesser API SG engine oil. Something need to be explained, I wonder if the JASO MA/MA2 spec translate on to a lower API spec, though bring us more energy efficiency in the clucth and gear shifts. Or maybe oil manufactures thinks that expensive SG is fine.
The GTX NON ENERGY CONSERVING and GO I would hazard to guess are the same oil repackaged. As long as it does not say 'energy conserving' it is wet clutch approved. It's all marketing hype.
Neither do all the different oils in the video. I've used them all in wet clutch applications for years and never had an issue with slipping. It's all marketing hype to charge you more for a JASO, T rated motor oil in a fancy bottle. The key is as long as it does not say ENERGY CONSERVING, you are good to go. ENERGY CONSERVING rated oils contain 'friction modifier' additives which is harmful to wet clutches@@ErnestBavone
I use castrol gtx to wash out my motorcycle engine because it is cheap i buy 3 liters for a 1.8lt oil cap. engine. I drain old oil and then put 1.2 lt and run engine for 30 mins and drain again and then put 1.8lt and use it for one week (200-500 km for a bike which recommends 4000km oil change in service manual) and change to real motorcycle oil such as eni or putoline may be motul. Motorcycle oils are specialized for wet clutches they are different.
MidievalFitness: The only difference needed for a conventional car oil to be called a motorcycle oil is the promise of it NOT containing a friction reducing additive(modifier).
I wanted to use Royal Purple in my Honda Shadow vt750dc but went ahead and picked up the Mobile one for motorcycles I Instead. I wonder how though if it would make a difference? But I'll stick with the right type. Not going risk it on a bike I just restored.
But modern cars has turbocharger that revs higher than your motorbike, so the car engine oil requires to stay-in-grade (not broken down) *and it's still rare to found motorcycle that has turbocharger on it
@Greg MyersKind of like it sounds. The clutches on motorcycles nowadays usually have 5 or more friction plates (originally made of cork!), and what you'll find is they literally spin against the pressure plates if the oil isn't right - such as a modern high performance oil with additives designed for cars. The clutch is located between the crankshaft and the gearbox and chain, and what happens when you let the clutch out is that due to the slippage the power of the engine causes the plates to spin excessively and your revs will rise, but there is reduced traction where you want it - at the rear wheel. Hope this explains things for you.
Hey man I just got myself a 1979 twin star I’m trying to change my oil and get the carb off and clean to be honest this is my first motorcycle and I have no idea for the most part what I’m doin any help you could give me or a video cleaning the carb or taking it off and how to change the oil I can’t find the oil filter for it either... any help please!!!!
Any oil is better than no oil. An there is no real difference. It's a lubricant. You can put bike oil in a car n vice versa. Don't get caught in the hype. Just lubricate your motor n trans and all other moving parts. Oil is oil !
blacksonne eightyeight: You got it almost right as the base stock is pretty much the same, then it's the additives or additives that are absent that can make it beneficial or harmful to your engine. Know what your engine requires and purchase accordingly!
My Honda dealer tole me not to use normal engine oil in my Grom125.They said it would make my clutch slip and skip.As Motorcycle oils have an adative to help cool wet clutch's.I have done over Twenty thousand miles using Honda G4 oil,no problems and my engine continues to perform like new.
i used liqui moly friction control on my Chinese scooter it has a problem with burning oil and not running right i have to rebuild the motor or swap the spark plug will burn and it will stop running after i put liqui moly friction control it runs better faster and doesn't burn the spark plug but it still burns oil on the normal motorcycle oil i can feel the piston trying to stop after i used moly gen it runs fine
i use moly gen for my dads car and i only put a little tea cup in the bike i drove upto 80kmh but too much trafic i had to slow down i'l try going over 100 kmh in the morning
Paul Finlinson two stroke/two cycle is made to be mixed with gasoline. I use Marine outboard two cycle TCW3 rated oil in my Jeep at 1 oz per 5 gallons of gasoline. It burns ashless and is the best cleaner and lube I have ever used. Been doing it for years in my car and truck. You wouldn't know my car/ truck is running at idle. Do a couple of tanks. 1oz per 5 gallons. Google BeenTesting Oil LS1 GTO and read about these guys that did the testing.
This music is way too loud. It is hard to hear what you are saying. Not necessary in this kind of video. This is for information purposes, not entertainment.
akupehsluarketatAR: Depends on the viscosity request of the manufacturer. Air cooled V-twins normally request 20w-50 and liquid cooled ask for 10w-40. Neither HAS to be V-twin specific and watch out for friction modifiers should you need to.
This guy is Clueless. Reason Not to use a Standard Automotive oil is? Friction Modifiers. They don't play well with Wet Clutches. And then there is the Sheering. Motorcycles use a lot of Gears. Auto Oil tends to get Squeezed out. I'm not 100% on this. But I believe the Detergents cause the oil to Foam. Air Compressor oils (Example) don't use them.
taste account: look in the owners manual and if you don't have one contact a dealership or repair shop for the make of scooter. Getting it right is important.
Lost of people use heavy duty diesel truck oil in theyr Kawasaki VN.. even tho it does have wet clutch, they say clutch works better with it. I didn't when I had VN, and it truly did have hard to handle clucth specially when motor was cold. Now I use JASO MA, if I have wet clutch in my bike and JASO MB with my bike that has dry clutch.
Nice, specifically I use Rosella T 15W-40 Diesel Motor Oil, 18.9 L at a time. Its always on special so less than 70$ here in Canada. For an old bike like mine, you can't beat 3.70 $/L. Plus it works great and lasts long with enough for many years to come. : )
For my case I would change it every year, im not a heavy duty rider. I use to use the castrol gtx or automotive oil and clutch and leaking issues. I switched to diesel truck oil and clutch is smoother than ever. The viscosity is very thick for big truck engine components, these old bikes are perfect for this oil especially the cx500 with its high rpm range. For newer bikes I wouldn't dare to use this oil. It wouldn't hurt to try it out and since you like to rebuild bikes from the ground up, there will be plenty of oil left for more. hope this input can help in any way : )
My friends are praying to name of Mobil Delvac.. mainly either MX or 1300 super, which both of them have suitable viscosity to engine. Some of Vulcan riders are chancing oil twice a year, but they ride like +10000km /y. Just make sure that oil don't have friction lowering addatives.. cos that will kill your wet clutch.
I used standard Castrol10w-40 oil in my 2003 Suzuki DR650 for ten years with 34,000+ miles. Broke second gear going to work one morning. When a mechanic tore the engine down for repair he was highly impressed with how clean the internal parts were. Trans break was from years of wheelie rides. So a great oil.
didnt you just prove it was not a great oil 🤣
i thought in the beginning ur gonna drink 3 of them and tell which is the best.
my thoughts exactly 😀
Lol
Lol
the true difference is friction modifiers put Into oils. car oils have the friction modifiers since friction in a crank case is bad where as motorcycle oils don't contain the modifiers since your clutch needs friction to operate correctly
Noah Rowe: Not all car oils have friction modifiers in them. Check the small API doughnut stamp on the back of the bottle to find out. If it DOES, it will have "resource or energy conserving" written in the bottom half of of the doughnut stamp. If it DOES NOT that space will be blank and is an acceptable oil for a wet clutch motorcycle.
As an example, in this video you can see the API doughnut stamp on the right side of the center bottle when he turns it around. The bottom space of the doughnut is blank indicating there is NO friction modifier in the oil and he correctly approves this car oil for a motorcycle. He should have referenced this stamp, but didn't. There was also the JASO MA2 rating on the motorcycle specific oil that he also failed to bring peoples attention to. Both of these rating systems, API and JASO, are important to know about when purchasing oil for a motorcycle.
I just bought one that says it has friction modifiers. But it doesn't have that on the bottom donut. Hmm I guess I'm good then? :) Even if it is bad what is the worst that can happen riding with this for a few thousand miles
bike slide down the road..... put some KY in the crankcase for extra slip!
I have owned and ridden 32 different motorcycles over 43 years. I have used car oil in all of them and never had a problem, never. Basic cheap car oil, bike oil is just a scam, there was no such oil many years ago. Oils are Oils.
I would argue that if you have a different motorcycle every year and a half, you may not necessarily know long term effects of using cheap oil vs oil designed for motorcycles.
Many years ago there was not specialty oil for motorcycles, this is true. That is the exact definition of technology.
Chad Savick
I can agree with what you are saying. In the80's I had a kawasaki Z650, put well over 140,000 km on that bike, used car oil, I changed every 5,000km. Never had clutch slip, or any other oil related problems.
Just my personal experience.
You just saved me thousands of dollars;)
But motorcycles oil have anti sheer priorities for the gears and also tolerate higher temperatures associated with air cooled engines.
Why don't you put used vegetable oil in there then? Use it too cook, then put it in the bike! Cost is ZERO! I mean, "oils are oils"...
I use olive oil for my skin
kill the music, or at least lower the volume
50k on my vstar and I don't care what oil I put in it. Still goes. Lawnmower car motorcycle oil. Mix and match. Never a problem.
Thanks for the video... I just want to add my 2 cents. In South Africa a solid motor oil that hundreds of thousands if not millions of people (pro and public) swear by is Castrol GTX, high mileage. It is a basic mineral oil with a few additives. It has been used extensively in cross-Africa trips both professionally and for the regular old Joe, whether it be motorcycle or car. My local mech who does economy runs for Honda on the bikes and is highly involved and renowned in the "two wheel" business, swears by good old Castrol GTX. Since the early 80s it has been the oil of choice for most sane thinking people across South Africa, if you take your old Landrover from the Okavango Delta in the South to Egypt in the North of Africa, beit bike or 4 wheels. And so my Honda VT 750 S gets nothing but Castrol GTX "High mileage". Proven over millions of track miles on a bike, to millions of rotten dirt roads in a Landrover Defender at 100+ degrees days on end. Certainly no snake oil...You WILL get 160k miles on your twin cruiser if you look after her and lube her up with Castrol GTX, high mileage - for cars!
I just put 5w30 “resource conserving” Mobil 1 advanced full synthetic in my SV650SF. Have 50 miles on the oil so far, as well as significantly taller gearing (17%) and have not experienced any clutch slippage. This car oil has almost double the shear pressure resistance compared to the bike oil that came out of it according to the 540 rat blog. The Mobil 1 motorcycle oil I was using in one of my other bikes is $11+ a quart, AND it still has less shear resistance than the car oil. The car oil is $27 out the door for 5 quarts. I will be experimenting with more car oils in my 3 bikes in the future.
So does that mobil 1 good for motorbike?
@@yasiin_ In my case it worked. I did 5700 miles with that oil, including a track day without issue, but I'm using various motorcycle oils in it again. The SV has pretty heavy clutch springs, so is less susceptible to slippage to begin with.
@@Daschickenifywhat about bike with cvt ? i want to try it for my new matic bike its only 155cc what do you think?
@@yasiin_ I would be careful with CVTs since the difference between clutch slip and CVT variation can be vague. That and it depends on if you have a wet or dry clutch.
@@Daschickenify its dry clutch some people use car or diesel for the same bike that i owned they say its good but im not really sure yet never try it before
I put Rotella-T 15w-40 in just about everything I own...It's imo one of the best oils still available for purchse. (purchase it by the barrel =D)
81' CX500, 82' CB450T, 77' CB550, 76' CB750, 72' TS125 (trans oil only =p), and one of my cars, a 1993 Nissan 240sx with a RB20DET.
For applications where WOT is more common than a closed throttle, I use Brad Penn 20w-50.
Nice channel.
I'll pay a little extra for my peace of mind.
Great video. I subscribed because you admitted you made a mistake, VERY RARE these days, and put out good info for others to follow. Bravo sir.
I think you were right when you said there were no specific motorcycle oils when that bike was produced. I certainly don't remember them when I started riding. I have a 1985 Honda TLR250 and I run a friction modified mineral car (similar to what would have been available in the day) to get the clutch to work right. The modern motorcycle specific oils I tried did not work on the clutch on that bike.
I don't think people account for the fact that oil today is almost certainly formulated differently than it was in 1982. All the friction modified, energy conserving stuff didn't exist in 1982. Today that standard for motorcycles is JASO MA. That is what I will buy.
If you have a wet clutch, choose an oil formulated for wet clutches. However, I have seen a few beater bikes with cheap automotive oil, supertech Walmart brand, where everything was fine. But I have also seen 2 or 3 with cheap oil, that caused clutch slippage. Clutch steels and friction disks were good looking, but clutch was slipping. Sprayed off the disks and plates with brake clean, reinstalled and added wet clutch safe oil. Saved the customer a decent chunk of change. I just dont risk it lol.
The wet clutch is the main difference, engines are very similar, but the clutch may require a little different additive. It never has in past decades, but.....
The point is :
1. Most PCMO IS NOT suitable for wet clutch motorcycle that can burn out the clutch.
2. Most PCMO IS ALWAYS suitable for dry clutch motorcycle like scooter, with 1 condition ->> dont speed up, because PCMO built for low RPM engine.
am I right?? please correct if im wrong.
I have a 2006 gsxr 750. I've over 30k on the clock. Done all my oil changes since 10k when i purchased it second hand. Anyway since then I have never bought specific motorcycle oil. I tried t6 Rotella 5w40 and 10w40 Mobile 1,and run that and change every 3k. It doesn't have a single tick,knock,or clutch problem. Anyway instead of a $40.00ish oil change, I pay $20.00. Anyway until I have a clutch problem or tick. I will be using the same oil.
Wet clutch v dry clutch. That’s the only difference. Wet clutch motorcycle oil important. Dry clutch automotive oil fine with the correct weight.
There are compromises in a shared sump design since engine oil is generally a mediocre gear lubricant.
Here in India Castrol GO motorcycle oil costs only 200INR, which is barely 3 dollars and car engine oils costs around 12 dollars. May be because of small engine capacity of bikes which is usually 125cc.
supply and demand. More people in India ride motorcycles than drive cars.
You can use any oil you want As long as its JASO compliant for a wet clutch application
They don't test car oils for JASO standarts, but it doesn't mean, they don't fit.
Don't waste your money. Shell Rotella does it all.
Just did my oil change with that and the bike ran fine for 100kms. no clutch slip, easy gear changes and no strange noise. Best oil. Run it in my car and now the motorcycle
I use car oil for my motorcycle and it runs very smooth and last longer also. I use Mobil 1 ultimate 0w40 synthetic oil. The best oil I ever try beside Motul. Btw my motorcycle is an Automatic motorcycle. So doesn't have a problem with the clutch. Don't use car oil for a wet clutch motorcycle
Thanks man. Wished I could turn off the music. Also wish you could have told me what was different about motorcycle oil.
Energy conserving auto oil usually has moly and other friction modifiers that will make a clutch slip. Its a good idea to just stick with motorcycle oil, its readily available, not hard to find, and not that expensive. Walmart website has several and will ship them right to your house. Castrol Go, Castrol Actevo synthetic blend motorcycle oil, Valvoline Motorcycle, Quicksilver motorcycle, Mobil 1 motorcycle, SuperTech motorcycle oil, and some others. If you have a Honda dealership close by they sell Honda GN4 oil for a good price. Same with Yamaha, they sell Yamalube for a decent price. Shell Rotella 15W40, available everywhere for cheap, has the JASO MA motorcycle wet clutch certification on the back of the label (the only diesel oil that carries this certification) and is used by many people in motorcycles. Motorcycle oils have special base stocks that are sheer resistant. They start out at a 40 weight oil, and will stay in grade for much longer than car oil. A car oil 10W40 is likely to sheer to a 20 weight in short order, compared to a manufactured and engineered product that is specially designed for the sheering actions of a motorcycle gear box. If your motorcycle has a separate gear box that has its own gear oil source, then you can use whatever oil you can find that meets the specs of the bike manufacturer.
Newer oils since the early 90s have a bunch of anti ware additives. They can interfere with the friction plate of a wet clutch. It’s true you may never see the negative effects if you ride dress up on the weekends.
I was told 20w-50 conventional oil in motor cycle engines is ok. the only difference if the primary chain trans oil, wet clutch will take a different oil for that purpose.
I have two 80s Honda twins (bigger CMs). Each bike takes 3.5L+ of oil at change time. So that's 7+ Litres.
Castrol and other companies ONLY sell their motorcycle oil in 1 L bottles - which is a huge waste of plastic right there. And typically the cheapest I can find it is $6.49 CAD per bottle. Meanwhile, I can find conventional oils several dollars cheaper per bottle, and/or in larger sizes.
I'm thinking about switching to Diesel oil, since the properties of that seem to favor a wet clutch and its widely available.
Plenty of motorcycle oils get sold in 4L packages too.
My Arctic cat 500 atv calls for 0w40 bike oil which obviously is synthetic only. That crap is $60 a gallon at the dealer. Funny thing is the same engine 3 years earlier in my 2014, same model just calls for 10w30 conventional.
Nothing changed with the bike, they just wanted to sell more expensive oil that wasn't readily available at Walmart or general auto supply places, so people would be more likely to just get it at the dealer and pay the cost.
On my 1st bike, I used car oil by mistake, and I could feel something wrong right away, down gear was harder, there’s some slippage on acceleration. Brought the bike back, the mechanic changed oil and filter, and the problem went away. What an embarrassment.
I have used Shell Rotella T 5W-40 for years now. It's JASO rated and usually around 21 bucks a gallon.
your video was very informative but hard to hear with all that music in the background
Man day got you in the bag motorcycle company’s just want you to spend more money you really think a peace of metal is going to know that different off what kind of oil you put on it or brand really?
And yeah it's expensive if you go to the Harley dealer for the oil it's around $220 for engine oil and oil filter and it's a 3 quart engine
Has to be Jaso-MA2 for wet clutch Apps. Rotela also meets the Jaso-MA2 req.
Car oil in a motorcycle can cause a wet clutch in a motorcycle to slip. Oils designed for motorcycles seem to not cause clutch slip. It took me years of bitter experience from slipping clutches to find this out. My Haynes Manuel in the 70s recommended GTX. But castrol keep improving the engine oil for Car Engines and thus years of trying to sort slipping M/C clutches. Until one day in the 80s I bought an oil designed for M/Cs and no more clutch slip. Why? was this information not made available, it would have saved me allot of grief and wasted time trying to remedy clutch slip. Steve
Don't blame you for being bothered on how they do not post clearly the changes or special properties. Then what gets me is when they do it's coded or hidden in practically undecipherable statements. Most people appreciate knowing what they are buying beforehand!!
Funny i put 5w30 in my drz400sm..been told to put 10w40..and i went to 10w30..work nice...well i took appart the motor to pu a kick start...so cleaned all..
Well... the CX 500 was built around the oil available during the late '70s... so my guess is that the normal old fashioned Castrol GTX car oil will work just fine! I use the 20W50 because the motor is old now and the 20W50 will do a bit better with heat.
Will Castrol gtx high mileage oil work on a 1981 cx500
I always just used what my owners manual says,I spent so much money on my motorcycle so I don’t skimp on the oil
Depends on what kind of bike you running but yeah motorcycle oil is better than car oil especially when it comes to the wet clutch
In the same way jet fuel and diesel fuel are exactly the same thing. When it comes to the magician advertisers at the petroleum corporations I always choose the cheapest option (unless it's 87 octane gas that stuff sucks in old vehicles)
Jet fuel is kerosene not diesel though.
Thank you for replying. There seems to be so many different schools of thought about engine oil and the difficult task is sorting out the truths from the myths. Apart from religion I don't know any other subject that has so many different points of view : )
I think it all comes down to those who are willing to use their motorcycle as a Guinea Pig for different car and diesel oils. Sometimes the oil company saves you the trouble and gets some of their car oils certified by JASO as an MA oil.
Similar debate in the mower community about whether to buy mower specific oil or use car/diesel engine oil.
Car oil in motorcycle , NO.
I think JASO save secret in their research ( Jaso Ma, Jaso Mb, Jaso Fd)
difference is friction modifiers
I only use Honda Grn oil 10w-30 for cars and 10w-30 for bikes are different
2000 Mobil 1 tried to push the synthetic on everyone , how much better it is , my brother got a 2001 and I had my 1986 harley he will only use synthetic oil , I have used conventional oil in both my bikes what it comes down to is price , i have 7 oil changes my brother has 3 at 21,000 i save about 45 bucks in 21,000 miles as long as the oil is changed on time you can run whatever oil you wish , the longer it last better for the environment less crude used . I use Castrol 20/50 conventional
I use gtx in 500 cc bike ..very smooth
I like my Harley the engine oil never reaches the clutch cuz my transmission and engine are two separate things my clutch only comes into play with primary oil which makes it extremely expensive for an oil change cuz I have engine oil transmission oil primary case oil and I have to replace primary cover gasket and drain plug
Baby Oil makes you smell nice too
I bout a motorcycle engin oil instead of normal car motor oil in my car , and it moved very good, is it right or wrong? Please let me know
Can I use 10w - 40 for my 150cc quad in the engine...
Please advise...
Thanks.
I want to know which oil is better for bike
car oil or bike oil
can we used the car oil in our bike please help me to know which is better.
Can i use Shell helix ultra 0w40 for my motorcycle?? Just asking. Peace :)
I'm interested in where you get m/c oil for $6 a litre?
What on earth did you have that music in the background for.
I agree with your point on the difference in price between the two. Quite honestly, would you pay a few extra bucks to rest easy knowing that something will not cause you any issues? At the very least, it'll be helpful in ruling out certain issues with your bike should you have them.
Just gotta ask, since additives cost, why are we paying more for an additive they are not adding, but otherwise would be? Shouldn't we be paying less?
It probably comes down to competing with other car oil companies and the supply and demand ratio between car oil and motorcycle oil. But who can say....
matey: I think it's crazy to pay extra for something you know you are not getting.
Many conventional(mineral) car oils do not contain this additive that damages motorcycle clutches. Most of the time when you buy motorcycle oil you can find a car oil offering acceptable features and benefits at a much lower price. All I can say is I am glad that I've been made aware that there are some oils out there now that will have a friction reducing modifier in them and equally glad to know there are some that promise they don't.
I am also very glad that I have been made aware of such additives. It resolved a very frustrating slipping clutch problem that I have had for years with my old Norton Commando. I previously used regular automotive engine oil in the primary chaincase not realizing that not all oil grades are made equal.
matey: Just curious, what oil or oils were giving you problems with slippage?
The problem with car oil in a motorcycle is detergents, any bike that runs the same oil through its engine and transmission or clutch must have motorcycle oil as they are non detergent oils which will not break down clutch/transmission components
Racinbirds: Wrong, my motorcycle owners manual says to use a detergent oil. The problem is friction modifiers as per the video.
Wtf, I expected this guy to actually do some tests and not just give his thoughts on the subject. Motorcycle oil is 6 bucks?! Maybe in 2017 but each quart is over 7 - 10+ bucks now. I can also read sticker labels, test data is what I'm looking for. Yes, the music is to damn loud.
I use PCMO 10w40 APISN/CF,ACEA A3/B4 on my honda 110 4T scooter, factory recomended oil is 10w30 JASO MB, feel smoother than factory oil, and my engine valve look clean from deposit. is it any effect for my engine later?
Agree. Music kills this video.
the motercycle oil can withstand more compression load or between gear teeth!! without the molecular structure breaking down as much thus providing more protection for your gearbox.... etc...fact!.
Anyone who wants to put car oil in their bike, yr bike wont blow up, it will run for a long time, but you are prematurely wearing out yr whole engine, slowly losing compression & power, also prematurely wearing out yr clutch, JUST USE A SYNTHETIC MOTORCYCLE OIL, it will be cheaper in the long run ........
So a API SM oil is cheaper than a lesser API SG engine oil. Something need to be explained, I wonder if the JASO MA/MA2 spec translate on to a lower API spec, though bring us more energy efficiency in the clucth and gear shifts. Or maybe oil manufactures thinks that expensive SG is fine.
If you love, or a least like your bike. Get "motorcycle oil"... I would.
The GTX NON ENERGY CONSERVING and GO I would hazard to guess are the same oil repackaged. As long as it does not say 'energy conserving' it is wet clutch approved. It's all marketing hype.
I've been looking online. The 20w50 go Castro doesn't say for motorcycles and no T rating. So I'm not sure about it
Neither do all the different oils in the video. I've used them all in wet clutch applications for years and never had an issue with slipping. It's all marketing hype to charge you more for a JASO, T rated motor oil in a fancy bottle. The key is as long as it does not say ENERGY CONSERVING, you are good to go. ENERGY CONSERVING rated oils contain 'friction modifier' additives which is harmful to wet clutches@@ErnestBavone
I use castrol gtx to wash out my motorcycle engine because it is cheap i buy 3 liters for a 1.8lt oil cap. engine. I drain old oil and then put 1.2 lt and run engine for 30 mins and drain again and then put 1.8lt and use it for one week (200-500 km for a bike which recommends 4000km oil change in service manual) and change to real motorcycle oil such as eni or putoline may be motul. Motorcycle oils are specialized for wet clutches they are different.
MidievalFitness: The only difference needed for a conventional car oil to be called a motorcycle oil is the promise of it NOT containing a friction reducing additive(modifier).
John Devore vise versa
MedievalFitness: Exactly!
I wanted to use Royal Purple in my Honda Shadow vt750dc but went ahead and picked up the Mobile one for motorcycles I
Instead. I wonder how though if it would make a difference? But I'll stick with the right type. Not going risk it on a bike I just restored.
Bikes do tend to rev higher so money well spent using the bike specific stuff.
But modern cars has turbocharger that revs higher than your motorbike, so the car engine oil requires to stay-in-grade (not broken down)
*and it's still rare to found motorcycle that has turbocharger on it
There is so much mis-information in these comments.
My 2012 Yamaha Super Tenere does not shift gears as smoothly with car oil in it.
Answer at 2:05
the 4-t made my clutch slip in my Vulcan
@Greg MyersKind of like it sounds. The clutches on motorcycles nowadays usually have 5 or more friction plates (originally made of cork!), and what you'll find is they literally spin against the pressure plates if the oil isn't right - such as a modern high performance oil with additives designed for cars. The clutch is located between the crankshaft and the gearbox and chain, and what happens when you let the clutch out is that due to the slippage the power of the engine causes the plates to spin excessively and your revs will rise, but there is reduced traction where you want it - at the rear wheel. Hope this explains things for you.
jonnybyford lol Na
Hey man I just got myself a 1979 twin star I’m trying to change my oil and get the carb off and clean to be honest this is my first motorcycle and I have no idea for the most part what I’m doin any help you could give me or a video cleaning the carb or taking it off and how to change the oil I can’t find the oil filter for it either... any help please!!!!
Thanks, about to do an oil change and needed to know this.
Any oil is better than no oil. An there is no real difference. It's a lubricant. You can put bike oil in a car n vice versa. Don't get caught in the hype. Just lubricate your motor n trans and all other moving parts. Oil is oil !
blacksonne eightyeight: You got it almost right as the base stock is pretty much the same, then it's the additives or additives that are absent that can make it beneficial or harmful to your engine. Know what your engine requires and purchase accordingly!
u can not just put motorcycle oil in a car
My Honda dealer tole me not to use normal engine oil in my Grom125.They said it would make my clutch slip and skip.As Motorcycle oils have an adative to help cool wet clutch's.I have done over Twenty thousand miles using Honda G4 oil,no problems and my engine continues to perform like new.
i used liqui moly friction control on my Chinese scooter it has a problem with burning oil and not running right i have to rebuild the motor or swap the spark plug will burn and it will stop running after i put liqui moly friction control it runs better faster and doesn't burn the spark plug but it still burns oil on the normal motorcycle oil i can feel the piston trying to stop after i used moly gen it runs fine
i use moly gen for my dads car and i only put a little tea cup in the bike i drove upto 80kmh but too much trafic i had to slow down i'l try going over 100 kmh in the morning
You bought into the marketing hype for overprice motorcycle oil.
Get rid of the music.
Saw him get the coffee the end. Did not watch.
How about the reverse. Can i use 4t motorbike engine oil in my car? Both engine should meet api SM standard. Just wondering....
If your car is normally aspirated, you can try
But if your car is turbocharged/supercharged/twincharged, stay away
THANKS FOR POSTING! GOOD POINT!
Which is the best oil for Honda CG 125??
What would happen if I put 2 stroke oil in a 4 stroke engine?
Paul Finlinson: I don't know, but it doesn't sound too promising!
John Devore I was only asking because that's what I almost put in my engine by mistake lol
Sounds like a recipe for a bad day. When it becomes evident it will be too late......
replace it now. 2 stroke oil is meant to burn with the fuel. It is not meant to lubricate the engine lowers in a 4 stroke engine.
Paul Finlinson two stroke/two cycle is made to be mixed with gasoline. I use Marine outboard two cycle TCW3 rated oil in my Jeep at 1 oz per 5 gallons of gasoline. It burns ashless and is the best cleaner and lube I have ever used. Been doing it for years in my car and truck. You wouldn't know my car/ truck is running at idle. Do a couple of tanks. 1oz per 5 gallons. Google BeenTesting Oil LS1 GTO and read about these guys that did the testing.
Don't mean to be too critical, but kill the music and drink your coffee before making the video
I really don't like the music
This music is way too loud. It is hard to hear what you are saying. Not necessary in this kind of video. This is for information purposes, not entertainment.
i hv a question. Is it requirement to use engine oil specific for V-engine or can i use any other engine oil in a V-engine
akupehsluarketatAR: Depends on the viscosity request of the manufacturer. Air cooled V-twins normally request 20w-50 and liquid cooled ask for 10w-40. Neither HAS to be V-twin specific and watch out for friction modifiers should you need to.
Thanx mate, the shop used 10-40 syn Mobil 1 on my air-cooled Duc but i had it changed to 20-50 syn Ipone
I totally agree with you.
used bel ray for 50 yrs np
Thanks for that, I was swinging between ordinary oil and the motorbike oil , my mind is made up and I’ll stick to the bike oil.
4 minutes how many times you edit video
DUDE! Kill the background Jazz music...really distracting.
Been running diesel engine oil in my bikes for years
How many years sir
15/40?
Amsoil made to lower the temp on the motor and used on both engine and crank case
Why the fuck is there background music
What about moped scooters
jflava1985 scooters do not have a wet clutch and the transmission ( gear oil is separate)... I'm running car oil.
This guy is Clueless. Reason Not to use a Standard Automotive oil is? Friction Modifiers. They don't play well with Wet Clutches. And then there is the Sheering. Motorcycles use a lot of Gears. Auto Oil tends to get Squeezed out. I'm not 100% on this. But I believe the Detergents cause the oil to Foam. Air Compressor oils (Example) don't use them.
Is 20w50 ok for 150 cc scooter ?
taste account: look in the owners manual and if you don't have one contact a dealership or repair shop for the make of scooter. Getting it right is important.
John Devore thank you
Probably 10W40
I use heavy duty truck oil for my CX. : )
Lost of people use heavy duty diesel truck oil in theyr Kawasaki VN.. even tho it does have wet clutch, they say clutch works better with it. I didn't when I had VN, and it truly did have hard to handle clucth specially when motor was cold. Now I use JASO MA, if I have wet clutch in my bike and JASO MB with my bike that has dry clutch.
Nice, specifically I use Rosella T 15W-40 Diesel Motor Oil, 18.9 L at a time. Its always on special so less than 70$ here in Canada. For an old bike like mine, you can't beat 3.70 $/L. Plus it works great and lasts long with enough for many years to come. : )
I haven't considered diesel 15W40 on my CX500. How often do you change it?
For my case I would change it every year, im not a heavy duty rider. I use to use the castrol gtx or automotive oil and clutch and leaking issues. I switched to diesel truck oil and clutch is smoother than ever. The viscosity is very thick for big truck engine components, these old bikes are perfect for this oil especially the cx500 with its high rpm range. For newer bikes I wouldn't dare to use this oil. It wouldn't hurt to try it out and since you like to rebuild bikes from the ground up, there will be plenty of oil left for more. hope this input can help in any way : )
My friends are praying to name of Mobil Delvac.. mainly either MX or 1300 super, which both of them have suitable viscosity to engine. Some of Vulcan riders are chancing oil twice a year, but they ride like +10000km /y. Just make sure that oil don't have friction lowering addatives.. cos that will kill your wet clutch.