Glad to see that you use an engine test stand in your build process. So many issues\items can be resolved\checked quite easily by running the engine outside of the car. Well done, Sir!
Very good video enjoyed seeing how you went about your rebuild I have a 1974, 911 with a 2.7 L engine and it has the magnesium engine case which I had to do upgrades on that engine case. I had to have case savers installed for the head studs and I installed new head studs, but I did not go with the head studs that are the racing grade I went with the standard aftermarket, steel studs. I did install new pistons and cylinders new timing chains and I upgraded the engine to, the higher output, oil pump with the oil bypass modification for that engine and other important thing is to find a Porsche a qualified machine shop, which I did in the state of Washington and the person that rebuilt my engine was a Retired Porsche Mechanic working out of the shop at his home which save me a lot of money. From what I’ve learned on Having, The, Engine, and Transmission rebuilt and replacing a lot of worn out parts on the car body. You should have a very good income and you should plan on having two wheelbarrow loads stuff completely full of disposable cash to spend on the project. Also to save yourself a lot of cash disassemble the engine yourself and take it to the machine shop and shop the Internet and source all of your parts. There’s a lot of the Internet companies that deal in Porsche Parts I shopped around four or five different companies define who had the exact part I wanted and purchased it at the cheapest price to help hold down the cost.
Great video! This stuff is super important content for air cooled owners. I rebuilt my '89 3.2 last year as it has several cracked head studs when I did the PPI so I was able to negotiate the engine rebuild into my purchase price. I did a cammed 3.4 build and I'm loving it.
@@UberWerks914 Sure. From top to bottom, I'm running DRC 964 cams made from the stock cams. He refurbished the rocker arms too. I used new shafts with seals with the turbokraft rocker locks to keep them in place. The heads are from xtreme with new valves and aasco springs with ti retainers. The head chambers have an edge bevel from the stock 95mm to 98mm new bore. Underneath that is new 98mm 10:1 Mahle piston and cylinders for single plug. I measured the CC chamber volume and it came up to 10.05:1 after machining and no detonation. The case was machined by Ollies in Arizona with a line bore and spigot machining. They extracted several head studs, polished the crank, refurbished the rods, and pressure tested the oil cooler. I'm running coated clevite bearings on the rods and coated glyco's on the mains. Holding things together are the supertec head studs and the ARP 9mm rod bolts. On the induction side I went with the stock ECU , but with a Steve Wong custom chip. The intake has a bored throttle body, MSDS filter, Lucas fuel injectors. I refurbished/rebuilt the air flow box and replaced the idle microswitch (the cause of many high idle issues) and the replaced the throttle body 80% open sensor listed as NLA with a BMW part. All sensors replaced like the crank triggers, oil pressure, oil temp, oil level, etc. Oil pump replaced along with cam chains, cam gears, tensioner gears and IMS gears. Of the moving parts that just got cleaned was the IMS shaft and it's aluminum drive gear. I have stock type stainless steel heat exchangers running to a Monte M41 muffler. I left some power on the table and could have used more aggressive cams, ECU, MAF conversion and headers if I wanted to go for more. But I have a very entertaining 7000 RPM motor that holds up well and last another 30 years. P.S. While you're in there stuff would be motor mounts, trans mount, flywheel, all things clutch, fuel injection lines, chassis fuel lines. It's a good time to pull the banana arms and replace those bushings too which leads into the torsion bushings and wheel bearings. Then refurbish the dry sump oil tank and those lines. Do it right the first time.
Need to include the cost of the oil pump inspection, oil coolers being professionally cleaned and pressure checked and oil lines cleaned or replaced replaced. Would not want to get any old contaminated oil into a new engine. Nice video.
Great, calming video ~ despite the imagined drain on my poor savings account .Some other things to add to a shopping list are a few ( NOT inexpensive ) specialized assembly tools and an engine stand. Also the use of a test-stand is crucial ( rental ?) or you have build one yourself. Ah, the list grows...
That's expensive to remove studs! Snap-On collet type stud remover and maybe a small propane torch if they were Loctited in. Couldn't possibly be any more difficult than the Yamaha's I've worked on. (and pretty similar to air cooled Beetle with two more cylinders) Working on SOHC and DOHC motors for 50+ years means they are simple to do (did you know Alfa Romeo flat four in Sud and others was designed by a former Porsche engineer who kinda told Porsche he could do things better) 60hrs seems a bit 'padded' for just a basic motor, motorcycles have transmission built in which means a lot more parts to be checked. I already have majority of tools and equipment needed, cam and Magnaflux I can't do though. Are the exhaust nuts the nickel plated brass ones that don't seize onto studs? (I generally make new ones, it's fun even though buying them is cheaper) Don't ARP make heavy duty stud kits? It's still substantially cheaper than the re-manufactured engines which seem to be around $25,000~$26,000
Where are you located? I have a 1973 911 T with mechanical fuel injection that needs a rebuild. Engine is in the car. Spark plugs and rotor cap missing. Not sure if it runs.
Vielen Dank für dieses aufschlussreiche Video bezüglich der Restaurierung bzw. der Kosten für einen Sechszylinder Porschemotor / Porsche 911. Ich freue mich schon auf die folgenden Videos zu diesem Thema! #Porsche #Porsche 911 #Porschemotor #Porscherestaurierung
Do it yourself. I rebuilt mine using "How to modify and rebuild a Porsche 911 engine" by Wayne Dempsey. Never rebuild an engine before, and it started first time. Running well, 3 years on.
What a beautiful piece of engineering in comparison to today's engines. Runs beautifully, thanks for sharing Thomas 🙂
Yes, these engines are beautiful, in sight and sound.
Glad to see that you use an engine test stand in your build process. So many issues\items can be resolved\checked quite easily by running the engine outside of the car. Well done, Sir!
Yes, I learned that the hard way one time, and so I always test run now.
Great video Thomas! Thanks for clearing up some of mystery around the costs associated with rebuilding these engines. Much appreciated!!!🙌🏻
Wonderful. The perfect daydream fix on this cold, gray January day.
Thanks very much for posting. Looking forward to more.
Very good video enjoyed seeing how you went about your rebuild I have a 1974, 911 with a 2.7 L engine and it has the magnesium engine case which I had to do upgrades on that engine case. I had to have case savers installed for the head studs and I installed new head studs, but I did not go with the head studs that are the racing grade I went with the standard aftermarket, steel studs. I did install new pistons and cylinders new timing chains and I upgraded the engine to, the higher output, oil pump with the oil bypass modification for that engine and other important thing is to find a Porsche a qualified machine shop, which I did in the state of Washington and the person that rebuilt my engine was a Retired Porsche Mechanic working out of the shop at his home which save me a lot of money. From what I’ve learned on Having, The, Engine, and Transmission rebuilt and replacing a lot of worn out parts on the car body. You should have a very good income and you should plan on having two wheelbarrow loads stuff completely full of disposable cash to spend on the project. Also to save yourself a lot of cash disassemble the engine yourself and take it to the machine shop and shop the Internet and source all of your parts. There’s a lot of the Internet companies that deal in Porsche Parts I shopped around four or five different companies define who had the exact part I wanted and purchased it at the cheapest price to help hold down the cost.
Great video! This stuff is super important content for air cooled owners. I rebuilt my '89 3.2 last year as it has several cracked head studs when I did the PPI so I was able to negotiate the engine rebuild into my purchase price. I did a cammed 3.4 build and I'm loving it.
Sounds good. Give us some details. Are you still running the stock fuel injection?
@@UberWerks914 Sure. From top to bottom, I'm running DRC 964 cams made from the stock cams. He refurbished the rocker arms too. I used new shafts with seals with the turbokraft rocker locks to keep them in place. The heads are from xtreme with new valves and aasco springs with ti retainers. The head chambers have an edge bevel from the stock 95mm to 98mm new bore. Underneath that is new 98mm 10:1 Mahle piston and cylinders for single plug. I measured the CC chamber volume and it came up to 10.05:1 after machining and no detonation. The case was machined by Ollies in Arizona with a line bore and spigot machining. They extracted several head studs, polished the crank, refurbished the rods, and pressure tested the oil cooler. I'm running coated clevite bearings on the rods and coated glyco's on the mains. Holding things together are the supertec head studs and the ARP 9mm rod bolts. On the induction side I went with the stock ECU , but with a Steve Wong custom chip. The intake has a bored throttle body, MSDS filter, Lucas fuel injectors. I refurbished/rebuilt the air flow box and replaced the idle microswitch (the cause of many high idle issues) and the replaced the throttle body 80% open sensor listed as NLA with a BMW part. All sensors replaced like the crank triggers, oil pressure, oil temp, oil level, etc. Oil pump replaced along with cam chains, cam gears, tensioner gears and IMS gears. Of the moving parts that just got cleaned was the IMS shaft and it's aluminum drive gear. I have stock type stainless steel heat exchangers running to a Monte M41 muffler. I left some power on the table and could have used more aggressive cams, ECU, MAF conversion and headers if I wanted to go for more. But I have a very entertaining 7000 RPM motor that holds up well and last another 30 years. P.S. While you're in there stuff would be motor mounts, trans mount, flywheel, all things clutch, fuel injection lines, chassis fuel lines. It's a good time to pull the banana arms and replace those bushings too which leads into the torsion bushings and wheel bearings. Then refurbish the dry sump oil tank and those lines. Do it right the first time.
@@3.2Carrera Sounds like a well built motor!
You mean only $7,600...😮wow, great price 👏 is this just for the parts ? Including labor ?🤔
Need to include the cost of the oil pump inspection, oil coolers being professionally cleaned and pressure checked and oil lines cleaned or replaced replaced. Would not want to get any old contaminated oil into a new engine. Nice video.
Great, calming video ~ despite the imagined drain on my poor savings account .Some other things to add to a shopping list are a few ( NOT inexpensive ) specialized assembly tools and an engine stand. Also the use of a test-stand is crucial ( rental ?) or you have build one yourself. Ah, the list grows...
Just a word of advice. If you have a new cam please break it in when starting an expensive build. Don’t let it idle
Solid advice
Did you build that test stand? What components did you use?
Just an oil tank, starter and starter ring, battery and wiring
@@UberWerks914 Thanks for the fast response. Thank you.
Nice job! it would be good to see a dyno run once its run in? extra bucks tho
That's expensive to remove studs!
Snap-On collet type stud remover and maybe a small propane torch if they were Loctited in.
Couldn't possibly be any more difficult than the Yamaha's I've worked on. (and pretty similar to air cooled Beetle with two more cylinders)
Working on SOHC and DOHC motors for 50+ years means they are simple to do (did you know Alfa Romeo flat four in Sud and others was designed by a former Porsche engineer who kinda told Porsche he could do things better)
60hrs seems a bit 'padded' for just a basic motor, motorcycles have transmission built in which means a lot more parts to be checked.
I already have majority of tools and equipment needed, cam and Magnaflux I can't do though.
Are the exhaust nuts the nickel plated brass ones that don't seize onto studs? (I generally make new ones, it's fun even though buying them is cheaper)
Don't ARP make heavy duty stud kits?
It's still substantially cheaper than the re-manufactured engines which seem to be around $25,000~$26,000
Where are you located? I have a 1973 911 T with mechanical fuel injection that needs a rebuild. Engine is in the car. Spark plugs and rotor cap missing. Not sure if it runs.
I’m in Texas. Contact me through my website.
I’m in Texas. Contact me through my website. Uber-Werks.com
Vielen Dank für dieses aufschlussreiche Video bezüglich der Restaurierung bzw. der Kosten für einen Sechszylinder Porschemotor / Porsche 911. Ich freue mich schon auf die folgenden Videos zu diesem Thema! #Porsche #Porsche 911 #Porschemotor #Porscherestaurierung
Ja, wir lieben diese Autos!
Beautiful Laguna Blue 914/6 in opening of video
Thanks, it's actually a bespoke metallic color I mixed.
Impressive 😊
Answer: Usually more than people can afford, not to mention the condition of the transaxle and the rest of the car
Nothing...... Everything...
I've got a 1985 3.2 liter motor that needs a rebuild 😅What's my price 👍
Do it yourself. I rebuilt mine using "How to modify and rebuild a Porsche 911 engine" by Wayne Dempsey. Never rebuild an engine before, and it started first time. Running well, 3 years on.
1 billion dollars... trust me