Next time, freeze the bearings before you install them. Put some grease on them too, they will go in much easier. Lube up the seals before you re-assemble everything. If you are going to paint the stuff, you might want to do it while they are mostly grease/oil free. Nice job using the old bearings. Lastly, clean that cylinder in soap and water to get all the grit out of it. Then dry it with a paper towel until no grit comes off the cylinder and lube it ASAP! I can't wait to see this thing run.
Love your videos... Next time though, put bearings in the freezer over night and when it’s time to install, apply heat to those locations in the cases. You can even put cases in the oven right before dropping bearings in fresh from the freezer. Use assembly lube, or lube of some kind. Also did you remember to chamfer your cylinder ports?
GoldGuy ... Lots of good videos on how to chamfer your ports. I’m no guru, BUT, I learned the hard way about it, by NOT chamfering a 2-stroke YZ125 rebuild. Live and learn. That build lasted about 4 hrs before the rings disintegrated from catching on the rough edges of my non-chamfered ports. Second time around got a proper chamfer, and lasted until I sold the bike YEARS later...
A tip when you are working with the cylinders that have the reed under it is to make sure you are not bending the metal plate over the reeds if you are putting it down on the bench. Been there Done that. Make sure your oiling the seals🙂 its not fun when they start to leak right away.
Hello GoldGuy First of all, thank you for taking the time to make these videos. You mentioned at the beginning of this video that you are learning from your mistakes & hope we learn from them too. This is one way of learning - we should all learn from ours & others mistakes, but there is another way. To become competent in a subject, the person needs training & experience. If I only watched theoretical videos & never lifted a spanner then I would not be competent, neither would I be competent if I just grabbed an engine, a set of spanners & stripped it apart without knowing how to correctly disassemble it. Even with training & experience people make mistakes & that’s where the good old learning from mistakes really helps. Please do not think I am insulting you, it is commendable that you are giving it a go. I have done exactly the same as you when I was younger but have learnt that mistake & wish you could learn from mine. Michael
You can remove the needle roller bearing by filling it with grease and using a wood dowel that is the size of the inside diameter of said bearing to pound the bearing out the grease will literally push the bearing out.
I'm one of matt's lot from the workshop, great dig at the start. I know the feeling mate, I got my first bike, a Cagiva Raptor 125 back about 5 years ago. Had to rebuild it a few months after getting it because it was old and tired at that point. It does make you very nervous. Especially when what's in the manual doesn't match what's in front of you and you're struggling to find parts as it is.
Hey man i do believe the case is magnesium. Not 100% positive but my PE 175 was. I watched all your vids tonight because i just got a ts 400 today. Thanks for doing the vids.
The bolt you took off at 3:25 and wondered what was it for, holds that spring with a blind cap on it, you found loose on the gearbox on a previous video, That cap holds the shifts selector in fixed positions, there should be some kind of rounded star at the same side of the selector drum, and it pushes against it forcing it to stay on one gear at a time.
When installing bearings in the case, make sure the bores are perfectly clean and free of gouges. Scotchbright pads work well, just don't enlarge the bores! Polish them instead. Use superfine scotchbright. Put bearings in a freezer and lightly heat the case then, apply light oil to outer race of bearing and bore. The bearings will be much easier to install. Something like 80% of premature bearing failures are caused by installation issues. Not saying your installation was bad, just less risky with proper preparation. Prelube bearings before assembling case. Otherwise there dry at startup. Just my 02 cents Enjoy your videos. Big demand for young men who want to be mechanics, good pay too.
JB Weld will fail, and it is a pain cleaning it all off so you can TIG weld it. TIG welding will make it as good as new. I would fix it before it goes back together. Also, if you warm the cases up in the oven and freeze the bearings, they will drop in with no hammering.
Rather than buying online, there are bearing shops you can probably walk into with the bearing numbers to buy for cheap, and save yourself the shipping.
I know this comment is not related to the video here I am sorry for that. I don't see any good tutorial on TH-cam regarding the Pod Filters setup and tuning/jetting of carbs. Can you please do a complete pod filter tutorial form scratch on your cb750.
Cant wait to see the project finished!! Also when the time comes you should do a video with the proper break in technique, which is of course Motomans! lol. It would be awesome :-)
Keep those videos coming always looking for the notification. I am sure you have been beat up on seals and bearings so I will leave it alone. I do hope your JB Weld job holds since you made it look so good. I just would personally hate to see you have to tear the engine apart again if it didn't. I have never heard anyone say man I am glad I did the JB Weld after a few heat cycles. I tried it on exhaust one time without success. Either way I enjoy your videos and looking forward to the next one.
Great job GG! ..VHT Barrel paint, and it will look like new...my experience is that it sticks on with a good surface.. ..keep up the good work! ..most entertaining videos! :b
@@GoldGuyRides hahaha. Yeah man he's a top bloke, inspired me to hop on a bike and I'm now studying to become a mechanical engineer thanks to him as well hahah Think you should give him a comedy response on his my first engine series "what you should've done here is chip the casing so the oil can get some fresh air"
hey dude - nice video - can you do me a favour - when the engine is reassembled can you weight it? On camera would be great if at all possible. Cheers dude
hey, i think u put the crankcase bearings and their seals wrong, u know that the seal should me on the outer side on the motor so the bearings are inside the crankcase to get lubrication from the gas and oil.
Looks like the crankcase bearings and the seal is put in the wrong way. they need to switch places. And the unidentified bolt in the motor casing looks like the oil filler plug.
I don't disagree with that, his chalkboard has shown some good lessons. I like the workshop channel, I wasn't dissing him just trying to "get back at him" for the videos he made about me. Anyways thanks for watching my videos too!
He will be the first to admit he deserves it :)! Just keep learning and wrenching as he told in his video I also appreciate your honesty and enthusiasm! You are on my channel list for a long time...👍👍
That "the workshop" comment at the start had me in tears mate.
Enjoying the channel, keep it up.
Next time, freeze the bearings before you install them. Put some grease on them too, they will go in much easier. Lube up the seals before you re-assemble everything. If you are going to paint the stuff, you might want to do it while they are mostly grease/oil free. Nice job using the old bearings. Lastly, clean that cylinder in soap and water to get all the grit out of it. Then dry it with a paper towel until no grit comes off the cylinder and lube it ASAP! I can't wait to see this thing run.
Mee too i cant wait to see it going
Love your videos... Next time though, put bearings in the freezer over night and when it’s time to install, apply heat to those locations in the cases. You can even put cases in the oven right before dropping bearings in fresh from the freezer. Use assembly lube, or lube of some kind. Also did you remember to chamfer your cylinder ports?
No I haven't done that yet, should I polish them as well?
GoldGuy ... Lots of good videos on how to chamfer your ports. I’m no guru, BUT, I learned the hard way about it, by NOT chamfering a 2-stroke YZ125 rebuild. Live and learn. That build lasted about 4 hrs before the rings disintegrated from catching on the rough edges of my non-chamfered ports. Second time around got a proper chamfer, and lasted until I sold the bike YEARS later...
Thank you, this is a great idea!
A tip when you are working with the cylinders that have the reed under it is to make sure you are not bending the metal plate over the reeds if you are putting it down on the bench. Been there Done that. Make sure your oiling the seals🙂 its not fun when they start to leak right away.
Hello GoldGuy
First of all, thank you for taking the time to make these videos.
You mentioned at the beginning of this video that you are learning from your mistakes & hope we learn from them too. This is one way of learning - we should all learn from ours & others mistakes, but there is another way. To become competent in a subject, the person needs training & experience. If I only watched theoretical videos & never lifted a spanner then I would not be competent, neither would I be competent if I just grabbed an engine, a set of spanners & stripped it apart without knowing how to correctly disassemble it. Even with training & experience people make mistakes & that’s where the good old learning from mistakes really helps.
Please do not think I am insulting you, it is commendable that you are giving it a go. I have done exactly the same as you when I was younger but have learnt that mistake & wish you could learn from mine.
Michael
It appears the seal at 13:00 isn't in all the way. You will want to watch for binding of the crank whenever you reassemble.
You can remove the needle roller bearing by filling it with grease and using a wood dowel that is the size of the inside diameter of said bearing to pound the bearing out the grease will literally push the bearing out.
I'm one of matt's lot from the workshop, great dig at the start.
I know the feeling mate, I got my first bike, a Cagiva Raptor 125 back about 5 years ago. Had to rebuild it a few months after getting it because it was old and tired at that point. It does make you very nervous. Especially when what's in the manual doesn't match what's in front of you and you're struggling to find parts as it is.
That top bolt is for your neutral detent ball and spring.
Pretty sure
The TS185 is gonna be like brand fricken new. Nice work dude!
Brand new LOL
Hey man i do believe the case is magnesium. Not 100% positive but my PE 175 was. I watched all your vids tonight because i just got a ts 400 today. Thanks for doing the vids.
The bolt you took off at 3:25 and wondered what was it for, holds that spring with a blind cap on it, you found loose on the gearbox on a previous video, That cap holds the shifts selector in fixed positions, there should be some kind of rounded star at the same side of the selector drum, and it pushes against it forcing it to stay on one gear at a time.
Yesss these videos are the only thing I get excited about
i only from big boobies.
Can't wait to see how the repairs on the crankcase work out!
0:00 - 1:10 ... it´s so true!!!!
And yes, we enjoy your Videos....
Flo from Germany
When installing bearings in the case, make sure the bores are perfectly clean and free of gouges. Scotchbright pads work well, just don't enlarge the bores! Polish them instead. Use superfine scotchbright. Put bearings in a freezer and lightly heat the case then, apply light oil to outer race of bearing and bore. The bearings will be much easier to install. Something like 80% of premature bearing failures are caused by installation issues. Not saying your installation was bad, just less risky with proper preparation. Prelube bearings before assembling case. Otherwise there dry at startup.
Just my 02 cents
Enjoy your videos.
Big demand for young men who want to be mechanics, good pay too.
Good to see you getting stuck in, if you're painting the engine I found doing it before assembly worked well 👍
JB Weld will fail, and it is a pain cleaning it all off so you can TIG weld it. TIG welding will make it as good as new. I would fix it before it goes back together. Also, if you warm the cases up in the oven and freeze the bearings, they will drop in with no hammering.
Should put cases in the oven preheat them then the bearings will drop straight in then should leave the seals to last so they don't get damaged
Rather than buying online, there are bearing shops you can probably walk into with the bearing numbers to buy for cheap, and save yourself the shipping.
I know this comment is not related to the video here I am sorry for that. I don't see any good tutorial on TH-cam regarding the Pod Filters setup and tuning/jetting of carbs. Can you please do a complete pod filter tutorial form scratch on your cb750.
th-cam.com/video/YuzVhFcdKGU/w-d-xo.html
I believe the bolt you pulled that was unknown is for viewing the timing mark.
You could have fixed the broken engine case better with blue demon aluminium brazing rods, no flux needed
they work good? how does it penetrate the al oxide layer?
Actually you can't. He tried that in the previous episode. They don't work on cast pot ali.
Cant wait to see the project finished!! Also when the time comes you should do a video with the proper break in technique, which is of course Motomans! lol. It would be awesome :-)
Keep those videos coming always looking for the notification. I am sure you have been beat up on seals and bearings so I will leave it alone. I do hope your JB Weld job holds since you made it look so good. I just would personally hate to see you have to tear the engine apart again if it didn't. I have never heard anyone say man I am glad I did the JB Weld after a few heat cycles. I tried it on exhaust one time without success. Either way I enjoy your videos and looking forward to the next one.
Great job GG! ..VHT Barrel paint, and it will look like new...my experience is that it sticks on with a good surface.. ..keep up the good work! ..most entertaining videos! :b
Where did you get the pressed in oiler fitting, broke mine to
Good video mate, can’t wait to see this run 👍
hiya "goldboy" liked your little dig at matt lol, good to see you improving lad. keep it up, youve got a nice channel here
Thanks man, I really don't have anything against Matt. He knows his shit, but I still gotta give him a hard time for being a smart ass 😂
@@GoldGuyRides hahaha. Yeah man he's a top bloke, inspired me to hop on a bike and I'm now studying to become a mechanical engineer thanks to him as well hahah
Think you should give him a comedy response on his my first engine series "what you should've done here is chip the casing so the oil can get some fresh air"
"He knows his shit, but I still gotta give him a hard time for being a smart ass "
- More power to you dude!
Use mystery oil for hoaning, it wont cause corrosion and breaks down carbon with iut being abrasive
WHO THE ACTUAL FUCK DISLIKES MA BOI'S AWESUM VIDEOS!!!!!
7:11 "One small step for man... one giant leap for mankind."
Good job GoldGuy!
hey dude - nice video - can you do me a favour - when the engine is reassembled can you weight it? On camera would be great if at all possible. Cheers dude
With or without oil?
@@GoldGuyRides With or without - just let me know if its with and how much oil - cheers dude
nice work man, for your first try, everybody has to learn sometime ey ;-)
My ts is ruined. Te cranckshaft doesn't spin free. What parts must I replace
Best tip ever make sure you lube everything
hey, i think u put the crankcase bearings and their seals wrong, u know that the seal should me on the outer side on the motor so the bearings are inside the crankcase to get lubrication from the gas and oil.
That is how it was when I disassembled it. I was just copying it. Also, I checked a diagram and that is how it was set up.
On the TS185, the seal goes toward the crank on the one side. You did it right.
The one which is on the right side is just like that, right crankcase bearing soaked by oil with the clutch
@@PakPikPuk well actually that is kinda smart haha
Great vid your doing great mate keep it up
On that grind
Nice work 👌
nice work as always gold guy. paint that engine in grey plsssss!
greetings from argentina
Well done!
I think the bolt is for neutral stopped ball
Looks like the crankcase bearings and the seal is put in the wrong way. they need to switch places. And the unidentified bolt in the motor casing looks like the oil filler plug.
The best
If you do this honing litle slower you can maybe get better job done from Finland 👌🏻
rip to that star point
Are you sure that cylinder doesn't have a ni coating ? If it does you wrecked it..
Nice
The j&b weld aint your only option... If you would take it to a welder you wouldn't fuck it up.
Excite❤🙋
That jb weld repair looks like its going to leak oil.
I like your channel but believe me you can learn a lot from that chalkboard...
I don't disagree with that, his chalkboard has shown some good lessons. I like the workshop channel, I wasn't dissing him just trying to "get back at him" for the videos he made about me. Anyways thanks for watching my videos too!
He will be the first to admit he deserves it :)!
Just keep learning and wrenching as he told in his video I also appreciate your honesty and enthusiasm!
You are on my channel list for a long time...👍👍
Traductor a español ?????
Love the show man, check out my vids and lemme know what you think. Ill be building a bike soon too.