This video saved me almost $1000. The dealership wanted over $500 for each side, I spent about $60 for each cv axle and followed this video. Took me about 3 hours both side, with 10 years of stubborn rust and running back and forth for various tools (used a self-help garage bay that rents their bays/lifts for about 4$/hr and all the free tools for use they have - just limited on the number you can have at a time) and ZERO experience. This video made it easy to follow step by step :)
A bit late of a response but i've learned how to replace a lot of things on my car just because of how ridiculous dealership part/labor costs are. Replaced these, my brakes, turbocharger, etc in my chevy cruze. was simple. Not sure why these are multi hour jobs for trained professionals :P
This is the best video regarding cv axle replacement I ever saw. Most authentic and easiest way. You gave me confidence and courage to change my cv axle by myself and save money. Thank you!
@@myRatchets I wush I'd seen your video before I started. Already removed the caliper. Had to, try to, put it back for a minute because I'd not brought anything to support it up top. It sucks. At least I know for the other side. Thanks.
Shame he never mentioned to remove the brake fluid cap and check fluid doesn't overspill before compressing the caliper and piston, also be wary of using a pry bar against the face of your disc, unless you want to risk damaging it.
Super helpful! I am going to take my car to get the CV joint fixed but I love actually knowing what will be done to the car. Thanks for explaining everything and getting the camera close to the tight spots so we could actually see what was happening.
Excellent video as always! I just replaced a cv axle and I took the strut off instead of removing the brakes. Some cars are tighter than others. Once I removed the strut it was a really easy job. I used Milwaukee cordless tools. Milwaukee 3/8”, Milwaukee 1/2”. I also used a tie rod separator tool from Harbor Freight. There’s many ways to do these jobs and it’s good to know the different ways. I’ve tried it every way that’s out there. I’m just leaving this tip because sometimes you have to approach a job from a different angle. You always make excellent videos! Thanks for everything you’re doing.
I learned a lot from this vlog sir. Thank you so much. I want to let you know that the unit for torque is not foot per pound (ft/lb) but foot-pound (ft-lb) because it is the product of the force (in pounds) applied at the point on the tool handle or lever and the length of the handle/lever from the point of force application on the handle/lever to the center of the nut/bolt to be tightened.
I never had a problem with my 2006 Elantra's CV joint but I definitely did with my 1992 Integra. I'm not mechanic, but your video is a great resource for working on CV joints in general.
Excellent video. Very clear. What I'd like to know more about is the part about replacing just the clamps rather than replacing the whole axle. I'm getting shaking at 60mph, same as you did. I had assumed I would need the whole unit.
I ended up replacing the cv axle and it solved the shaking problem, now I dont know if it was because the weight wasnt put on there properly or if the loose weight had damaged the axle but funny enough the new cv joint didnt have one...just glad I dont have to drive through and earthquake everytime I do 65mph..lol
@@LuisPerez-bk3cmI went to Autozone n got both of my 2011 Elantra CV AXLE. I have today replace lower control arm n driver side axle . I did not replace the seal . I have two new ones but the seal in car now didn’t leak . Tomorrow I got do rest new rotors n brakes n tork . N go do driver sides
thanks very much for your video, i am looking to replace my cv's (not paying someone else to do it) your video has given me excellent insight on the process and i have confidence i can do it. thanks mate!
That's a good tip. Always use Hyundai's transmission fluid. There is a reason for this. Hyundai transmissions have a weakness (at least in older Hyundai Accents from the early to mid 2000's and probably Elantras like your's too) and if you don't use their fluid, say goodbye to your transmission in under 500 miles. Their fluid is special and makes up for this weakness. It's a known issue I discovered in Hyundai forums online. If you use aftermarket fluid, it does not have the special additives, so ALWAYS use their fluid. I have heard that Hondas and Toyotas recommend this too and it's obviously for good reason. You can use aftermarket fluid on domestics without issues, but some of these imports need special fluid and it's worth the little bit extra for the manufacturer's fluid. Another good tip you didn't mention (cause you were just repairing the old axle and not replacing it, which makes sense why you didn't mention this) is if you are replacing the axle, always check the new spline length and number of splines on the new axle against the old one. Some vehicles, like my Accent have two spline lengths for two different transmissions used in these vehicles. Different number of splines and sometimes different length. Use the wrong one and again, kiss your transmission goodbye on under 500 miles. Great video and your tips should help me with my first axle replacement job. Wish me luck. Never done it before. As others mentioned, your camera work and camera angles were fantastic.
I replaced the driver's side CV axle of my "03 Elantra. Your video helped me a lot. Thanks so much. When I removed the axle from the transmission, lots or trans fluid poured out. I ended up refilling 4 qts of fluid. it's O.K. because it's almost time to change trans fluid. I think the part of the reason was because I jacked up the front of the vehicle. I didn't lift the side because I was afraid the car may flip over. Also I couldn't remove the tie rod end for some reason. I punched the knuckle, but it won't budge. I have a pickle fork to separate the ball joint, but I didn't use it because I was afraid I may burst the bushing. I just removed the castle nut and cotter pin and push the tie rod away. That was enough to remove and install the CV axle.
Daniel Lee Nice glad to hear you got it done, be very careful when lifting the car, always always use a jack stand and leave your lift underneath aswell. Also after you remove the wheel stick it underneath the car as an extra safety measure. GL
I just came across this video. Informative for the axle removal. It looked the clamps used were hose clamps. The worm part of the clamp could cause off balance condition during high speed rotation. The factory clamps do not have those extra weights. If the clamps were to be replaced, why the whole axle had to come out. Unless you wanted to show how to remove axle. Another cause of vibration could be bad motor mounts. Regards.
By far all cv joint repair replacement vids the these camera angles were pointed with clear imagery and at the actual time when he worked on each of the step super awesome ! I'm not even working on my car because I dont know the prop feet per to tighten bolts back but I watched like 5 vids of CV joints just cuz my is cv joint bearings are goners but it's interesting af
On my 2005 elantra I had the same issue with the steering wheel vibrating at high speeds, it was a bent rim. It wasn't bent much at all but it made a big difference. But thanks for this video! I have a rip in my driver side cv boot so I'll have to change it out soon!
I love the bungie chord idea for holding the caliper. I had to cut a stablizer bar last summer when installing new struts and I guess a piece of hot metal melted its way through the cv boot so I'll be doing this procedure soon.
thank you I have to replace my cv joint in my 1998 ford windstar van . After watching your video I now kind of got a idea on what to do. Back in my days a universal joint took a half an hour.lol thanks again great job
Unfortunately the problem is still there, I dont think you can see it in the video but when you move the weight around its fairly obvious where it needs to be secured...oh and the torque spec for the axle nut is 170 ft/lbs. Tx for your comment and thanks for watching.
FYI pry bar method does not always work for all applications. I tried this on my Jeep Commander today. All went well until time to pop out the axle. It would not come out. I pried and pried, I actually bent the Axle drive shaft seal and the oil started leaking out. Unfortunately none of the local parts stores had the seal. Have to visit dealer in the morning. You should mention that there is a tool similar to the tie rod end remover (aka pickle fork) that can be rented from parts store. Once I got this tool and hit with a BFH the axle popped right out. Took all of 1 minute. Never do this repair on a Sunday.
great video you are awesome I love how you don't mind getting your hands dirty. one more question did anchoring those weights down fix your driving problem?
Funny how all these diy repair videos from 2013 2014 starts with a low voice hey guys like it's not a big deal at all, now in 2022 the intro is so hyped and the ads and the loud voice and excitement makes it like he's the only one in the world who's ever done that.
Great video but I'm surprised that you were so focused on every torque specification EXCEPT the axle nut! If anything, that's the one I'd be worried about the most man.
If you don't have a air gun and need to remove the nut, then you can put a bar between the studs so it jams on the ground stopping the disc from spinning, then use a breaker bar to remove the nut. Good idea to put the nuts on when doing this so you don't damage the thread.
Thank you for the GREAT video. I think that I have the same problem on my toyota Venza. It too has the axle weight on the shaft. Now the question is why these weight exists? If it is for balance the spin, then put two clamps will unbalance the axle. Can I just take it off without weight on the axle? If it can do without, I may be able to take it out without pulling the axle out. Need your opinion. Thanks.
u make that look so easy bro/i would be under there for a whole day probably with spanners that dont fit banging my head and cutting my hands to pieces lol.
Thanks man for the video I have to do the same thing on my 06 elantra because I'm having the same problems you said your car was having. I'm planning on just replacing the axle and why I have it torn apart I'm replacing the wheel bearing and hub also.
That's a good step by step description. I'm interested in how the counterweights shifted. Presumably they have offcenter weights, and it must have been hard to reposition it at the right axial angle. Did the problem go away after securing the weights? Did you ever get the torque spec for the axle nut? Some of those have very narrow tolerance, and others not.
BRILLIANT!!! I now have absolute confidence, that i can save hundreds of dollars doing this myself. Well done. Keep the great vids coming. Subscribe?? Absolutely.
@Ratchet and Wrenches when you compress the pistons like you did, is it necessary to bleed the brakes after you replace the Caliper/brakes? Also, will doing that push air or dirty oil into the brake line? Thanks for your time brother.
I am really not sure, I think I will try and take a closer look at the transmission mount and also see if I can get an alignment in the next few days and go from there. Have a feeling the old lady that owned this had a few fights with the curbs and what not lol
Well, I broke into the wheel well and got most of it unplugged but the axle nut. Mine has a bent piece instead of a cotter pin so I think I’ll use a torch to bend that piece up before removing the axle nut. I will likely also use a piece of pipe with pry bar after heating and lubricating the outside axle nut. It looks like I was pretty close! Quick question: Was there any steps to popping the axle out from the transmission? Any seal, nuts or anything like that?
Vibration is a sign of a bad wheel bearing. Jack up the front end and shake the tire. If there is play or wiggle, it is probably the wheel bearing. Check for grinding when you spin the wheel and or cyclical noise while driving. These are the signs of a bad wheel bearing
Couple of warnings to do it better than I did it, and also on how it's done in this video (I made the same mistakes). Toyota.com helped me find what torque the strut bolts or cam bolts should be on my car. If the bolts are 17mm it says it needs to be 220 ft/lbs. Much higher than you'd expect? Well, be sure to look it up. I had done about the same as the good man who did this video and when I drove it in for an alignment if they hadn't checked it, I could have really gotten some serious damage. Things felt a little loose and wrong...also, don't put the axle on with the impact gun. It will damage your wheel bearings. I just learned this today, and I have to look up what it's supposed to be torqued to and fix it tomorrow. I put mine mostly on by impact gun and finished with 115 ft/lbs. My simple logic was to do it harder than my lugs just because I was wrong about the strut mounts....I'll look it up so if anyone's looking you at least know what mine should be.
Thank you so much for the video! I see in your comments that you did get it torqued per your specs, sigh of relief. :) But watching your video may have saved my car, at least I didn't over torque it and cause compression damage to my new wheel bearings. For a 1999 Chevrolet Prizm the axle is supposed to be 167 ft/lbs. or 227 newton meters. Or actually by this webstite: www.rockfordcv.com/Toyota_torque.htm it says that's the case for all Toyota's. (toyota corolla/chevy prizm = same car).
The torque value is not determined not by the size of the bolt, but it varies depending on the part location and type of structure which hold it. For example in this case, caliper mounting bolt (17") is 48-55 ft/lbs, front strut mounting bolt to knuckle (17") is 96-111 ft/lbs according to Hyundai shop manual.
On other vehicles I would not go by that rule of thumb, but Toyota engineers have it published that this is the case. I am referring only to strut bolts where they fasten to the steering knuckle. Something else to watch out for is that the car originally starts with 17mm bolts, but aftermarket cam bolts are 14 mm...but the torque requirement hasn't suddenly changed! They don't make good cam bolts for my car. They had a small purchase in my wheel bearing - about 1/3 of the surface that the original bolts had and the cam bolts hollowed out the inside of one of my steering knuckles. I've replaced it, but at anytime I'll get to the point that I'll have to replace the other side too.
What the differences between PB plaster and WD 40. Would WD40 penetrate into the nut and help with loosening the the axle nuts as PB plaster? We do not need to put any grease on the groove of the axle before putting it back to the hub at 10:53? Thank a lot for the video mate
I also wonder about the warning of oil on the thread. WD40 is actually short for 'Water Displacement'. It protects and lubricates but really do not penetrate that good. The recipe below, 50% transmission oil and 50% Acetone, should be better than any brands. But be aware that if a penetrant is really needed it will need time to have effect and more than a few minutes.
Peter's answer is right and the formula for PB Blaster is similar to what he mentioned. It's lubricant mixed with a solvent. The solvent helps to penetrate rust and gets the lubricant in. WD-40 is basically garbage, however it has it's uses. One of it's greatest advantages is what Peter mentioned, water displacement. If you have old spark plug wires that are letting moisture in and causing poor starts or no starts due to moisture, you can spray the wires with good old WD-40 and it will push the water out and make better spark and start the vehicle. This is a sign you need new spark plug wires.
Sean Tu Viscosity it's the difference, the ability to penetrate more. Kroil is better than WD and PB. TH-cam Chrisfix and watch his coffee on home-made penetrating oil
Did you replace the hub bearing assembly before considering the Axle? In case of similar vibration, I would think to check wheel balance first, and then hub/bearing, and the axles last..
BRILLIANT!!!. Cool vid keep up great work - were do you locate the weights on the shaft (centered?) if they become loose - I think I have same issues.... 2004 Honda accord EX. Springfield,VA
Should it be ONE click or TWO clicks? I've read one comment for 1A Auto film, it was Mazda, and he said it should be TWO clicks. I don't know, maybe it depends on model of the car. I need to do CV Axle replacement on 2001 Saturn SL2. Do you happen know, is it hard to find and replace the Seals for the CV Axle - to -Transmission connection. If it is not hard it would be good to replace it if you are there anyway. Thank you for a great film.
Awesome video, thanks for sharing, my question is we follow the video, however when we start the car and put it in drive the front shakes, help please...
Thank you for your video I have click in my passenger side so is that mean drive shaft or bearing and this stated from 2 month and I still drive and go many places ,,so hope get your advice,,evan
Were trying to replace a cv joint on my dads 2004 ram 1500 but we cant get it back onto the transmission. We didn't take off tie rods or anything like you did because a different video from 1A the guy left it all on. Do you think if we take them off the cv joint will fit in better?
Can you possibly answer some questions for me? #1. If the CV boot is torn up do I need to replace the axle? #2. If I replace axle do I need to replace wheel bearings ? #3. After replacement of axle cvboots and new rotors and brakes should the wheel make noise ? Does that noise mean the wheel bearings are bad ?
The weight on the axle has to be in the rite position like a tire or it wont work and you can't guess the location, also the weight of the screw mechanism on clamps can cause additional balance issue.
Hi Ratchets And Wrenches, on the seal on the transmission, you say to wet it with some transmission fluid. How about some axle grease. Would that be better or would axle grease dry the seal out?
Hey all I had to redo this job because because the CV axle wasn’t properly seated. Any advice on how to make sure the CV axle is properly seated after you feel the click. My CV axle always has about a millimeter or two of cOf clearancelOf clearance where it connects to the of clearance where it connects to the transmission,I gave it a couple wax today to try to set it further in and and now I am able to loosen the axle by hand...
The CV axle is stuck on the wheel hub end. I cant get it loose. The transmission side was easy to take off with a prybar. at 6:35 you make it look so easy! I've been pb blasting, hammering, pulling, pushing, a lot of cursing and it still won't budge!
DarKKnightt07 Sounds like yours is rusted in place. you can either use a hub puller (auto zone might have it) or remove the steering knuckle with the cv axle attached and take it somewhere that has a press and have them press it out for you. GL
I have a question, not relevant to this subject, how wheel stops when we fully turns the steering wheel to either side, is there any stopper rubber etc that stop the wheel to turn further for Toyota Camry 2009. Thanks for your great vedios.
Got to ask 2 things. 1st: why was it neccessary to take the whole axle shaft off, just to slide/readjust/replace the balancing weight? 2nd: Why was it neccesasary to take the tie rod off and the spindle-to-strut bolts off when you could have, with the same success, taken off the lower ball joint and remove the axle that way?
Hi, 1. it wasn't, I just did it to show the procedure for the video. 2. It is more often than not easier to take the outer tie rod end and knuckle to strut bolts off than the lower ball joint. But for an even easier way watch my latest video on CV axle replacement here: th-cam.com/video/ddwxYJCZ4yY/w-d-xo.html cheers
Jerry is right. As long as everything remains the same as you started, no alignment needed. The only time an alignment is needed usually is when replacing struts, or possibly tie rods or steering components. I've never seen, nor heard of axle jobs needing an alignment.
He removed the strut to spindle bolts that's where camber alignment is adjusted you can possibly get away with out having an alignment done by putting the bolts over the marks if it's out so will toe.
This video saved me almost $1000. The dealership wanted over $500 for each side, I spent about $60 for each cv axle and followed this video. Took me about 3 hours both side, with 10 years of stubborn rust and running back and forth for various tools (used a self-help garage bay that rents their bays/lifts for about 4$/hr and all the free tools for use they have - just limited on the number you can have at a time) and ZERO experience. This video made it easy to follow step by step :)
Niceee, glad you didint have to give up your hard earned money to the stealership. cheers!
Hrothbert Bainbridge yea those dealerships suck ! Always ripping everyone off.
Hrothbert Bainbridg
Hrothbert Bainbridge unfortunately they don't have rental bays where I'm from
A bit late of a response but i've learned how to replace a lot of things on my car just because of how ridiculous dealership part/labor costs are. Replaced these, my brakes, turbocharger, etc in my chevy cruze. was simple. Not sure why these are multi hour jobs for trained professionals :P
This is the best video regarding cv axle replacement I ever saw. Most authentic and easiest way. You gave me confidence and courage to change my cv axle by myself and save money. Thank you!
Daniel Lee Thank you for your comment, good luck with it. Cheers
Sweet! This is the first time I have seen anyone compress the caliper piston BEFORE removing the caliper. That does help!
Thank you for the tip!
Anthony Starfield Yes makes life easier when putting back, thanks for your comment.
Anthony Starfield cool
@@myRatchets I wush I'd seen your video before I started. Already removed the caliper. Had to, try to, put it back for a minute because I'd not brought anything to support it up top. It sucks. At least I know for the other side. Thanks.
Shame he never mentioned to remove the brake fluid cap and check fluid doesn't overspill before compressing the caliper and piston, also be wary of using a pry bar against the face of your disc, unless you want to risk damaging it.
Super helpful! I am going to take my car to get the CV joint fixed but I love actually knowing what will be done to the car. Thanks for explaining everything and getting the camera close to the tight spots so we could actually see what was happening.
Excellent video as always! I just replaced a cv axle and I took the strut off instead of removing the brakes. Some cars are tighter than others. Once I removed the strut it was a really easy job. I used Milwaukee cordless tools. Milwaukee 3/8”, Milwaukee 1/2”. I also used a tie rod separator tool from Harbor Freight. There’s many ways to do these jobs and it’s good to know the different ways. I’ve tried it every way that’s out there. I’m just leaving this tip because sometimes you have to approach a job from a different angle. You always make excellent videos! Thanks for everything you’re doing.
I learned a lot from this vlog sir. Thank you so much. I want to let you know that the unit for torque is not foot per pound (ft/lb) but foot-pound (ft-lb) because it is the product of the force (in pounds) applied at the point on the tool handle or lever and the length of the handle/lever from the point of force application on the handle/lever to the center of the nut/bolt to be tightened.
I never had a problem with my 2006 Elantra's CV joint but I definitely did with my 1992 Integra.
I'm not mechanic, but your video is a great resource for working on CV joints in general.
Excellent video. Very clear. What I'd like to know more about is the part about replacing just the clamps rather than replacing the whole axle. I'm getting shaking at 60mph, same as you did. I had assumed I would need the whole unit.
I ended up replacing the cv axle and it solved the shaking problem, now I dont know if it was because the weight wasnt put on there properly or if the loose weight had damaged the axle but funny enough the new cv joint didnt have one...just glad I dont have to drive through and earthquake everytime I do 65mph..lol
What brand and where u recommmend to buy, i need to replace both cv axles thanks.
@@LuisPerez-bk3cm Napa new, not remanufactured
@@LuisPerez-bk3cmI went to Autozone n got both of my 2011 Elantra CV AXLE. I have today replace lower control arm n driver side axle . I did not replace the seal . I have two new ones but the seal in car now didn’t leak . Tomorrow I got do rest new rotors n brakes n tork . N go do driver sides
The tip about compressing the brake piston before removing the caliper assembly is super helpful. Thank you
thanks very much for your video, i am looking to replace my cv's (not paying someone else to do it) your video has given me excellent insight on the process and i have confidence i can do it. thanks mate!
dude thankyou i didnt know about that weight, my cv's shud b fine for a bit longer then i thought, ur the man!
That's a good tip. Always use Hyundai's transmission fluid. There is a reason for this. Hyundai transmissions have a weakness (at least in older Hyundai Accents from the early to mid 2000's and probably Elantras like your's too) and if you don't use their fluid, say goodbye to your transmission in under 500 miles. Their fluid is special and makes up for this weakness. It's a known issue I discovered in Hyundai forums online. If you use aftermarket fluid, it does not have the special additives, so ALWAYS use their fluid. I have heard that Hondas and Toyotas recommend this too and it's obviously for good reason. You can use aftermarket fluid on domestics without issues, but some of these imports need special fluid and it's worth the little bit extra for the manufacturer's fluid.
Another good tip you didn't mention (cause you were just repairing the old axle and not replacing it, which makes sense why you didn't mention this) is if you are replacing the axle, always check the new spline length and number of splines on the new axle against the old one. Some vehicles, like my Accent have two spline lengths for two different transmissions used in these vehicles. Different number of splines and sometimes different length. Use the wrong one and again, kiss your transmission goodbye on under 500 miles. Great video and your tips should help me with my first axle replacement job. Wish me luck. Never done it before. As others mentioned, your camera work and camera angles were fantastic.
Looks relatively easy to do! But I am taking my 99 villager to John my local repair shop!
Bill Does Stuff
?
I replaced the driver's side CV axle of my "03 Elantra. Your video helped me a lot. Thanks so much. When I removed the axle from the transmission, lots or trans fluid poured out. I ended up refilling 4 qts of fluid. it's O.K. because it's almost time to change trans fluid. I think the part of the reason was because I jacked up the front of the vehicle. I didn't lift the side because I was afraid the car may flip over. Also I couldn't remove the tie rod end for some reason. I punched the knuckle, but it won't budge. I have a pickle fork to separate the ball joint, but I didn't use it because I was afraid I may burst the bushing. I just removed the castle nut and cotter pin and push the tie rod away. That was enough to remove and install the CV axle.
Daniel Lee Nice glad to hear you got it done, be very careful when lifting the car, always always use a jack stand and leave your lift underneath aswell. Also after you remove the wheel stick it underneath the car as an extra safety measure. GL
Good job on a very well done video. Well narrated and camera placement. Thanks for posting!
Aces. This dude knows his stuff. He explains well and takes his time. And is very neat. Been watching him for years.
You just saved my ass. Made a daunting task into an afternoon project. Thank you.
I just came across this video. Informative for the axle removal.
It looked the clamps used were hose clamps. The worm part of the clamp could cause off balance condition during high speed rotation. The factory clamps do not have those extra weights. If the clamps were to be replaced, why the whole axle had to come out. Unless you wanted to show how to remove axle.
Another cause of vibration could be bad motor mounts. Regards.
the best camera angels in Auto repair
thank you
By far all cv joint repair replacement vids the these camera angles were pointed with clear imagery and at the actual time when he worked on each of the step super awesome !
I'm not even working on my car because I dont know the prop feet per to tighten bolts back but I watched like 5 vids of CV joints just cuz my is cv joint bearings are goners but it's interesting af
On my 2005 elantra I had the same issue with the steering wheel vibrating at high speeds, it was a bent rim. It wasn't bent much at all but it made a big difference. But thanks for this video! I have a rip in my driver side cv boot so I'll have to change it out soon!
I love the bungie chord idea for holding the caliper. I had to cut a stablizer bar last summer when installing new struts and I guess a piece of hot metal melted its way through the cv boot so I'll be doing this procedure soon.
thank you I have to replace my cv joint in my 1998 ford windstar van . After watching your video I now kind of got a idea on what to do. Back in my days a universal joint took a half an hour.lol thanks again great job
brian houting np, glad you liked the video. Hope it goes smooth, GL.
Im about to buy a 95 ford Windstar with this problem thats why i am here. Wonder if thats a common problem with them or just a coincidence
Unfortunately the problem is still there, I dont think you can see it in the video but when you move the weight around its fairly obvious where it needs to be secured...oh and the torque spec for the axle nut is 170 ft/lbs. Tx for your comment and thanks for watching.
Replaced both of mine only had to pay for the cv joints thanks to you man🤙🏻
Nice straight forward video(very rare on youtube)many thanks for the video.
Very well explained with good clear camera angles to see what your doing ...thanks
FYI pry bar method does not always work for all applications. I tried this on my Jeep Commander today. All went well until time to pop out the axle. It would not come out. I pried and pried, I actually bent the Axle drive shaft seal and the oil started leaking out. Unfortunately none of the local parts stores had the seal. Have to visit dealer in the morning. You should mention that there is a tool similar to the tie rod end remover (aka pickle fork) that can be rented from parts store. Once I got this tool and hit with a BFH the axle popped right out. Took all of 1 minute. Never do this repair on a Sunday.
I started repairing cars in 1977 at age 14. Today at age 60, I still do all of my out of warranty auto repairs.
Thank you for this vidio.
A fixed my AC to, watching your videos.
Thank you much my friend.
great video you are awesome I love how you don't mind getting your hands dirty. one more question did anchoring those weights down fix your driving problem?
Funny how all these diy repair videos from 2013 2014 starts with a low voice hey guys like it's not a big deal at all, now in 2022 the intro is so hyped and the ads and the loud voice and excitement makes it like he's the only one in the world who's ever done that.
...Man you made that easy for us car guys who don't squart about car merchanics
Wow bro perfect step by step information and plus you camera view
Great video but I'm surprised that you were so focused on every torque specification EXCEPT the axle nut! If anything, that's the one I'd be worried about the most man.
If you don't have a air gun and need to remove the nut, then you can put a bar between the studs so it jams on the ground stopping the disc from spinning, then use a breaker bar to remove the nut. Good idea to put the nuts on when doing this so you don't damage the thread.
+David Jones Just leave the tire on the ground.
Thank you for the GREAT video. I think that I have the same problem on my toyota Venza. It too has the axle weight on the shaft. Now the question is why these weight exists? If it is for balance the spin, then put two clamps will unbalance the axle. Can I just take it off without weight on the axle? If it can do without, I may be able to take it out without pulling the axle out. Need your opinion. Thanks.
Yes, good step-by-step. What do you think might be the problem at this point?
u make that look so easy bro/i would be under there for a whole day probably with spanners that dont fit banging my head and cutting my hands to pieces lol.
Great video and straghtfoward explanation. Good clear shots 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Excellent video..very helpful and very well explained.. Thankyou
Tiocfaidh Arla Np, glad you found it useful. Thanks for commenting.
Thanks man for the video I have to do the same thing on my 06 elantra because I'm having the same problems you said your car was having. I'm planning on just replacing the axle and why I have it torn apart I'm replacing the wheel bearing and hub also.
you make it looks sooo easy...can you make a video how to change rear hub assembly on a 2002 Toyota sienna?
That's a good step by step description. I'm interested in how the counterweights shifted. Presumably they have offcenter weights, and it must have been hard to reposition it at the right axial angle. Did the problem go away after securing the weights? Did you ever get the torque spec for the axle nut? Some of those have very narrow tolerance, and others not.
BRILLIANT!!! I now have absolute confidence, that i can save hundreds of dollars doing this myself. Well done. Keep the great vids coming. Subscribe?? Absolutely.
Sweet, take your time and you shall succeed. Thanks for watching!
Great video! I wonder if it's possible to adjust/secure that weight without pulling the axle?
The best CV axle remove video on youtube. Autozone, EricTheCarGuy and others suck in comparison
@Ratchet and Wrenches when you compress the pistons like you did, is it necessary to bleed the brakes after you replace the Caliper/brakes? Also, will doing that push air or dirty oil into the brake line? Thanks for your time brother.
THIS VIDEO SAVED ME 2,000 US $ ON LABOR FOR MY NISSAN
Another great video. Easy to understand and follow
I am really not sure, I think I will try and take a closer look at the transmission mount and also see if I can get an alignment in the next few days and go from there. Have a feeling the old lady that owned this had a few fights with the curbs and what not lol
Well, I broke into the wheel well and got most of it unplugged but the axle nut. Mine has a bent piece instead of a cotter pin so I think I’ll use a torch to bend that piece up before removing the axle nut. I will likely also use a piece of pipe with pry bar after heating and lubricating the outside axle nut. It looks like I was pretty close!
Quick question: Was there any steps to popping the axle out from the transmission? Any seal, nuts or anything like that?
Super , Great work ", That's why your car love's you .
You kick ass bro! Very easy to understand! Great Job! Hope my 2 go just as smooth!
American Reefer Thanks, hope it goes well for your too. cheers
great video, yer one of the guys with skill.👍
Vibration is a sign of a bad wheel bearing. Jack up the front end and shake the tire. If there is play or wiggle, it is probably the wheel bearing. Check for grinding when you spin the wheel and or cyclical noise while driving. These are the signs of a bad wheel bearing
Thst was super awesome keep them coming very clean very knowledgable thx!
Absolutely great vid (like all the rest of yours). Straight forward and clear. Thanks brother! Subscribed. 🇨🇦👍🏼
Very good explanation on how to do this.
Thanks
Myra Strachan np, thanks for watching.
Not doing it for this car but it helped me decide wether I want to do this myself or take it in.
Note: suspension components should be torqued to specs and use thread lock.
Couple of warnings to do it better than I did it, and also on how it's done in this video (I made the same mistakes). Toyota.com helped me find what torque the strut bolts or cam bolts should be on my car. If the bolts are 17mm it says it needs to be 220 ft/lbs. Much higher than you'd expect? Well, be sure to look it up. I had done about the same as the good man who did this video and when I drove it in for an alignment if they hadn't checked it, I could have really gotten some serious damage. Things felt a little loose and wrong...also, don't put the axle on with the impact gun. It will damage your wheel bearings. I just learned this today, and I have to look up what it's supposed to be torqued to and fix it tomorrow. I put mine mostly on by impact gun and finished with 115 ft/lbs. My simple logic was to do it harder than my lugs just because I was wrong about the strut mounts....I'll look it up so if anyone's looking you at least know what mine should be.
Thank you so much for the video! I see in your comments that you did get it torqued per your specs, sigh of relief. :) But watching your video may have saved my car, at least I didn't over torque it and cause compression damage to my new wheel bearings. For a 1999 Chevrolet Prizm the axle is supposed to be 167 ft/lbs. or 227 newton meters. Or actually by this webstite: www.rockfordcv.com/Toyota_torque.htm it says that's the case for all Toyota's. (toyota corolla/chevy prizm = same car).
Well next to all Toyota's. There is a seperate section for vans and trucks.
The torque value is not determined not by the size of the bolt, but it varies depending on the part location and type of structure which hold it. For example in this case, caliper mounting bolt (17") is 48-55 ft/lbs, front strut mounting bolt to knuckle (17") is 96-111 ft/lbs according to Hyundai shop manual.
Daniel Lee Sorry for the typo. The torque value is not determined by the size of the bolt...
On other vehicles I would not go by that rule of thumb, but Toyota engineers have it published that this is the case. I am referring only to strut bolts where they fasten to the steering knuckle.
Something else to watch out for is that the car originally starts with 17mm bolts, but aftermarket cam bolts are 14 mm...but the torque requirement hasn't suddenly changed!
They don't make good cam bolts for my car. They had a small purchase in my wheel bearing - about 1/3 of the surface that the original bolts had and the cam bolts hollowed out the inside of one of my steering knuckles. I've replaced it, but at anytime I'll get to the point that I'll have to replace the other side too.
What the differences between PB plaster and WD 40. Would WD40 penetrate into the nut and help with loosening the the axle nuts as PB plaster? We do not need to put any grease on the groove of the axle before putting it back to the hub at 10:53?
Thank a lot for the video mate
I also wonder about the warning of oil on the thread.
WD40 is actually short for 'Water Displacement'. It protects and lubricates but really do not penetrate that good. The recipe below, 50% transmission oil and 50% Acetone, should be better than any brands. But be aware that if a penetrant is really needed it will need time to have effect and more than a few minutes.
Peter's answer is right and the formula for PB Blaster is similar to what he mentioned. It's lubricant mixed with a solvent. The solvent helps to penetrate rust and gets the lubricant in. WD-40 is basically garbage, however it has it's uses. One of it's greatest advantages is what Peter mentioned, water displacement. If you have old spark plug wires that are letting moisture in and causing poor starts or no starts due to moisture, you can spray the wires with good old WD-40 and it will push the water out and make better spark and start the vehicle. This is a sign you need new spark plug wires.
Sean Tu
Viscosity it's the difference, the ability to penetrate more. Kroil is better than WD and PB.
TH-cam Chrisfix and watch his coffee on home-made penetrating oil
Great video exactly my problem almost 100% sure now thanxx 👍
Thanks alot completely understood everything once again thanks for this video
Arturo Eduardo Cruz No problem, thanks for commenting and watching.
Did you replace the hub bearing assembly before considering the Axle? In case of similar vibration, I would think to check wheel balance first, and then hub/bearing, and the axles last..
BRILLIANT!!!. Cool vid keep up great work - were do you locate the weights on the shaft (centered?) if they become loose - I think I have same issues.... 2004 Honda accord EX.
Springfield,VA
Should it be ONE click or TWO clicks? I've read one comment for 1A Auto film, it was Mazda, and he said it should be TWO clicks. I don't know, maybe it depends on model of the car. I need to do CV Axle replacement on 2001 Saturn SL2. Do you happen know, is it hard to find and replace the Seals for the CV Axle - to -Transmission connection. If it is not hard it would be good to replace it if you are there anyway. Thank you for a great film.
Awesome video, thanks for sharing, my question is we follow the video, however when we start the car and put it in drive the front shakes, help please...
Thank you for your video I have click in my passenger side so is that mean drive shaft or bearing and this stated from 2 month and I still drive and go many places ,,so hope get your advice,,evan
Were trying to replace a cv joint on my dads 2004 ram 1500 but we cant get it back onto the transmission. We didn't take off tie rods or anything like you did because a different video from 1A the guy left it all on. Do you think if we take them off the cv joint will fit in better?
This is a good video.
Well done and good little hints and advice along the way.
Gosh i love the sound of the air gun!
Me too!
Excellently done and explained.👍
You make excellent instructions. Thank you so much!!
Can you possibly answer some questions for me?
#1. If the CV boot is torn up do I need to replace the axle?
#2. If I replace axle do I need to replace wheel bearings ?
#3. After replacement of axle cvboots and new rotors and brakes should the wheel make noise ? Does that noise mean the wheel bearings are bad ?
The weight on the axle has to be in the rite position like a tire or it wont work and you can't guess the location, also the weight of the screw mechanism on clamps can cause additional balance issue.
Hi Ratchets And Wrenches, on the seal on the transmission, you say to wet it with some transmission fluid. How about some axle grease. Would that be better or would axle grease dry the seal out?
Hey all I had to redo this job because because the CV axle wasn’t properly seated. Any advice on how to make sure the CV axle is properly seated after you feel the click. My CV axle always has about a millimeter or two of cOf clearancelOf clearance where it connects to the of clearance where it connects to the transmission,I gave it a couple wax today to try to set it further in and and now I am able to loosen the axle by hand...
Great video thank you very much ,greetings from Hellas!
Great video! What do I do if I can't get the CV axle out of the hub. It's stuck . I've sprayed a lot of PB blaster. I hit it with a hammer.
Thank you very much for this information.
mine is bouncing when i slow down. but the weight on c v alex that is new info for me. thanks for posting.
Good tip loose weights on cv joints mine is doing same and are fairly new cv joints thank you
+rads ter Glad you liked it, thanks.
The CV axle is stuck on the wheel hub end. I cant get it loose. The transmission side was easy to take off with a prybar. at 6:35 you make it look so easy! I've been pb blasting, hammering, pulling, pushing, a lot of cursing and it still won't budge!
DarKKnightt07 Sounds like yours is rusted in place. you can either use a hub puller (auto zone might have it) or remove the steering knuckle with the cv axle attached and take it somewhere that has a press and have them press it out for you. GL
Is it much different on a 2006 Impala?
Awesome video. Thanks so much.
WOW you look so young in this video!
I have a question, not relevant to this subject, how wheel stops when we fully turns the steering wheel to either side, is there any stopper rubber etc that stop the wheel to turn further for Toyota Camry 2009. Thanks for your great vedios.
7:09 - how much ATF comes out? Just some or will it keep draining?
Should only be a bit, cause most of the fluid sits in the pan or bottom of the transmission and the axles sit just in the fluid/slightly above.
Thank for showing me all you need to take luse to take out the credit joint
Could u share what types of low profile socket set and your ratchet wrench u use to hold the nut ?
if replacing the axle would I have to switch over the weight to the new one?
no
I am truly grateful for this video. Thank you very much.
Got to ask 2 things.
1st: why was it neccessary to take the whole axle shaft off, just to slide/readjust/replace the balancing weight?
2nd: Why was it neccesasary to take the tie rod off and the spindle-to-strut bolts off when you could have, with the same success, taken off the lower ball joint and remove the axle that way?
Hi,
1. it wasn't, I just did it to show the procedure for the video.
2. It is more often than not easier to take the outer tie rod end and knuckle to strut bolts off than the lower ball joint. But for an even easier way watch my latest video on CV axle replacement here: th-cam.com/video/ddwxYJCZ4yY/w-d-xo.html
cheers
I am wondering if its possible loosen the cv joint nut with wrenche, or do I need socket rachet?
do you really need to remove the tie rod knot? or you can just shake and let loose the axle from the wheel bearing ?
you needed an alignment after that, right!? because you remove the suspension bolts from the hub? im i right or is that not necessary!?
I know its late, but any time after working worth the axels or tie rods, it recommended for an alignment.
If you do not rotate the tie rod end, you don't need to realign.
Jerry is right. As long as everything remains the same as you started, no alignment needed. The only time an alignment is needed usually is when replacing struts, or possibly tie rods or steering components. I've never seen, nor heard of axle jobs needing an alignment.
He removed the strut to spindle bolts that's where camber alignment is adjusted you can possibly get away with out having an alignment done by putting the bolts over the marks if it's out so will toe.
Awesome video brother 👍
Just remember an alignment after you do this. You can leave the strut attached and remove the lower control arm assembly.
This job doesn't warrant an alignment
99 depends on how you do it. But yes you can do it without having o redo an alignment.
@@Fenix_93
So what will cause the need for an alignment????
Great instructional videos. Thank you.
So it is ATF that pours out when the axle is removed on an automatic trans?