Dude. I can watch your stuff all day. You used to just make me want to buy cheap Chinese pens... Now I want to spend big money on a mill. Keep up the fantastic work. 👍
I like what you're doing. I can tell you that "climb milling" will grab your work and make it walk across it. You also have a good chance of breaking an end mill or dislocating a vice. Please look it up on the internet or in a book.
I've got a bunch of cast iron plate weights people in my 'hood just kick to the curb, this looks like a good use for the right one as a base, I think I'd first chain drill for the upright, knock out the slug and then mill to square. This is still a valuable shop tool, with diamond grit rasps, you can shape even depleted uranium with it, looking forward to the rest of the build.☺
@@davfew Logic would say postage cost too much but it comes with three castings (two cast iron and one aluminium), bearings and all the bits and pieces. Bought Dec 2020 kits £83 plus postage £117 but minus VAT and I didn't pay nz gst. Actual cost £167 but I though it would be good for 10 years plus, I get to learn how to clean up castings and the big plus for me of includes all the raw materials so I can just get on with project rather than spending hours sourcing materials. My local metal dealers aren't open on weekends so work makes visiting tricky... $nz325 in real money.
That sounds about right for the postage costs that I looked at. Not sure why but postage from America to Aus is a lot more than sending something to America.
Good on you for having a go at making your own! I can't see it will matter if the column is perpendicular to the base or not. Perhaps you could mill the part the table attaches to while it's all assembled so it's top is parallel to the base?
Nice - I can see this project being quite useful. I think I first saw one on Chris' Clickspring channel and have wanted one since! Looking forward to the next part!
Hi thx for sharing. I liked watching your videos however I've been looking to make my own and you inspired me. Do you share drawings. I may make one for my self someday. Thx.
Nice video, I have always been intrigued by a die filer and they do look like a nice square edge is their specialty. Enjoyed the video, thanks and cheers!
Wow, really enjoyed watching this, super project you have there, something I'd like to build myself sometime, I look forward to following along with the build, good luck :) Regards. Ade
Hi everyone could I ask what is a die filer what’s it used for this is a great series and I am looking forward to the next video thank you for sharing your work is amazing all the best
I don't know where he got them from but they're all pretty common. If you have no luck in Mexico, I can recommend edconsteel.com.au in Sydney for mail order at reasonable shipping prices.
@@bobweiram6321 I disagree. Hacksaws definitely have their place, but in this instance a grinder, abrasive chop saw, Portaband or normal bandsaw is a faster choice. Setup time for my horizontal bandsaw is all of a minute assuming it needs squaring.
@@artisanmakes thanks for the reply! Yeah I've got a 7x12 minilathe too. It can be hard to fit larger stuff in there. One really useful thing I made was a 7 inch aluminium face plate, it has a round shaft that fits in the chuck and a 7 inch faced-off plate on it. Then it can be used for facing off anything up to about 7 inch in size, provided you can fix the item to the plate. A lot of the blocks of steel you are flycutting in the mill I would fix onto the lathe and face them, it's fast and makes a really nice finish, and chips are easier to clean etc. Anyway, great channel, cheers! 👍🙂
Hi there, nice project! I've been interested in die filers since seeing one on Mr Pete. I have long thought about building one. As it happens, I have an absolutely enormous old scroll saw, essentially just the casting. I'm considering converting it to a dye filer. One of my concerns is that I would wear out files early because of the short stroke length. All of the dye filers I have seen seem to take a very short stroke, two to three inches. They also tend to use those small socket files. I would prefer to be able to use traditional files because of the wide access to different profiles. Having now built and used one, can I ask your thoughts on this plan? Have you considered a mounting system to accept traditional files? Any input you have would be appreciated, there is not a lot of people to consult about these rare machines
Very nice, pushing the limits of your small tools. I wouldn’t remachine the base. Fill the mill gouges with epoxy putty and give it a coat of paint :-)
I tend too use a milling cutter to countersink holes for bolts and the like a three or 4 flute. It leaves a nice flat edge for the bolt to snug up to! I don't own a mill...yet, but have found it worked for me on my drill press. Where did you score a large piece of cast from? I am in QLD and could use the help to source my own pieces for projects. I tend to hound the recycling yards for scrap pieces of steel to build up my stock! Keep up the good work.
@@josephwaldner7752 I thought it was copper and tin with a bunch of other bits like phosphorus. I'm thinking up a whole new hobby here, must stop myself.
@@SRCCgames I don't know of any Sydney specific suppliers, but ebay is my go to for brass,you can get good ally from there too, but a local supplier would be easier
Since you used brass, it doesn't matter that you didn't have a reamer. If you put a heavy grease like molybdenum or lithium, turning a steel pin back and forth a dozen times will clean it just as well as a reamer because it is so soft
Most small mill's like yours and mine (and many large ones as well) can have their head rotated so that it is horizontal. This then means you can do a job, like the one where the base slipped, with the work mounted horizontally. There are limitations on the size of the part but it may be a useful option for the future.
That would certainly be the plan in the future. Still running pretty light on tooling for the mill, having only recently bought it, and tooling costing what it does. Cheers
A little bit of both. The cast iron was the most affordable solution for getting such a big base and easy for me to obtain. Plus Cast iron is a much nicer material to machine than the other carbon steels I was looking at. Cheers
Well, if you intend doing any significant metal removal you need to have the right tooling........no matter what it cost, but not by buying the very best that an expert would invest in, your tooling will determine the outcome of any project. A milling vice with a 100mm wide jaw (depending on the size of your mill) would be the very first buy at about A$100 and a set of parallels comes into that must have category too. Next buy would be a collet chuck and a set of collets......the list is endless, but making a start with the right stuff is the important bit to get you onto the starting line.......God bless the Chinese and EBAY, I'm probably a major shareholder.
I think Martin Models will sell the plans for theirs separately from their casting set. The drawings are obviously based around using their castings, but there is no reason you couldn't use them as the basis for making one from stock.
I personally don't see too much of an issue. The jaws are made from hardened steel, it's scratching a fine line in alcohol marker and these are cheapo $10 calipers. I would never do them with my mitutoyos, but with these, it makes working out easier and quicker, even if it's not good for them. Cheers
@@artisanmakes Just want to say. Love your videos. You show people that you also can do something whith smaler maschines. I make an education as an metallsit. We learn a lot about mesuring. The thing is if you juse your calliper it damage the thing only a bit. But if you do this more the masureings are a bit wrong. There a tools. (Dont now the name (--;) it locks like a caliper but has a surface where you can use an criber.
@@artisanmakes I don't know why TH-cam commenters are always so stuck up about this. There's absolutely nothing wrong with using cheap calipers for layout. I've even seen some people use Mitutoyos for it, though those people probably have enough money to consider them disposable.
![[LIVE] BABYMONSTER(베이비몬스터) - DRIP | 두시탈출 컬투쇼](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/UG05pxLGwzc/mqdefault.jpg)
Dude. I can watch your stuff all day. You used to just make me want to buy cheap Chinese pens... Now I want to spend big money on a mill. Keep up the fantastic work. 👍
Cheers. i still do that, I just havnt found anything super interesting from china in the recent months.
Thank you for owning up to the milling error. It’s refreshing to see that such mistakes do happen in the real world. 👏👏👍😀
This guy is one of my fave to watch reminds me of click spring
Thankyou
Cool work sir 👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Excellent project.Thank you.
I like what you're doing. I can tell you that "climb milling" will grab your work and make it walk across it. You also have a good chance of breaking an end mill or dislocating a vice. Please look it up on the internet or in a book.
Nice! Been wanting one of these for awhile. Really looking forward to this. Will need to add this to my DIY tools list.
Great project. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week :)
Watching you fly cut that annoying bowed edge is as pleasing as hearing you say "square". ;-)
Great execution 👍😎👍
Looks interesting. Waiting for the final product.
Thankyou, this project took a little longer than expected, but it should be completed in the next week or so. Cheers
I've got a bunch of cast iron plate weights people in my 'hood just kick to the curb, this looks like a good use for the right one as a base, I think I'd first chain drill for the upright, knock out the slug and then mill to square. This is still a valuable shop tool, with diamond grit rasps, you can shape even depleted uranium with it, looking forward to the rest of the build.☺
Great project, had to subscribed don't wonta miss part #2.
Nice work! You would really benefit if you used a milling vice. These little machines need every advantage you can throw at them.
beautiful 👌
Merci
Subed. I'm part way through the hemingway kits die filer for my myford 7. I agree about costs of shipping to au/ nz....
Was looking a that one too, idea of shipping costs???
@@davfew Logic would say postage cost too much but it comes with three castings (two cast iron and one aluminium), bearings and all the bits and pieces. Bought Dec 2020 kits £83 plus postage £117 but minus VAT and I didn't pay nz gst. Actual cost £167 but I though it would be good for 10 years plus, I get to learn how to clean up castings and the big plus for me of includes all the raw materials so I can just get on with project rather than spending hours sourcing materials. My local metal dealers aren't open on weekends so work makes visiting tricky... $nz325 in real money.
That sounds about right for the postage costs that I looked at. Not sure why but postage from America to Aus is a lot more than sending something to America.
Good on you for having a go at making your own!
I can't see it will matter if the column is perpendicular to the base or not. Perhaps you could mill the part the table attaches to while it's all assembled so it's top is parallel to the base?
Nice - I can see this project being quite useful. I think I first saw one on Chris' Clickspring channel and have wanted one since! Looking forward to the next part!
Nothing like an Aussie saying, "Perpendicular". So soothing. ;-)
Hi thx for sharing. I liked watching your videos however I've been looking to make my own and you inspired me.
Do you share drawings. I may make one for my self someday. Thx.
Make you a powered hacksaw :)
Very nice setup so far!
Keep em coming!!!!
Nice video, I have always been intrigued by a die filer and they do look like a nice square edge is their specialty. Enjoyed the video, thanks and cheers!
Wow, really enjoyed watching this, super project you have there, something I'd like to build myself sometime, I look forward to following along with the build, good luck :) Regards. Ade
Ah yes "The Filer" :)
"The Bart, The!"
@@nickhadfield3192 Precisely! :)
Hi everyone could I ask what is a die filer what’s it used for this is a great series and I am looking forward to the next video thank you for sharing your work is amazing all the best
its a reciprocal machine in which a file is mounted and if you've ever hand filing you will know the advantages
@@josephwaldner7752 thanks for the info yeah I hand file all the time I’m going to look into making one of these lol thanks
Wow!
I have no idea how this thing is going to work, a bit intriguing really! Looking forward to part 2.
Could you make a ball/concave turner after this project?
Cant wait for the next episode, subbed!
can you do a series on a diy mill? without using your mill or lathe...
Stop justifying every decision you make or the tools you have, everyone and their setup!
You're doing a great job, love your content!
I hope you plan on at a minimum loctite on those bushings because they aren't going to do much with a loose fit like that.
I do mention that they will be fixed in place in the final build. Cheers
Enjoyable video - where do you buy your metals here in Australia?
I am based in NSW and buy my stuff either from ebay sellers or from a company called EDCON steel
Can you please go buy a bandsaw? At least the 50$ Parkside one.
Are you planning to use socketed files?
Another having wanted one for ages,would love to know we’re you got the materials from, as I’m based in Melbourne
I don't know where he got them from but they're all pretty common. If you have no luck in Mexico, I can recommend edconsteel.com.au in Sydney for mail order at reasonable shipping prices.
Please dude, just use a angle grinder or buy yourself a metal bandsaw.
It makes me insane to see that you cut it with a hacksaw😂😂😂
For small pieces, a hacksaw is faster since there's less setup time.
@@bobweiram6321 I disagree. Hacksaws definitely have their place, but in this instance a grinder, abrasive chop saw, Portaband or normal bandsaw is a faster choice. Setup time for my horizontal bandsaw is all of a minute assuming it needs squaring.
Why didn't you face the cast iron disc in the lathe?
It's a bit big for my lathe so it had to be done on the mill
@@artisanmakes thanks for the reply!
Yeah I've got a 7x12 minilathe too. It can be hard to fit larger stuff in there.
One really useful thing I made was a 7 inch aluminium face plate, it has a round shaft that fits in the chuck and a 7 inch faced-off plate on it.
Then it can be used for facing off anything up to about 7 inch in size, provided you can fix the item to the plate.
A lot of the blocks of steel you are flycutting in the mill I would fix onto the lathe and face them, it's fast and makes a really nice finish, and chips are easier to clean etc.
Anyway, great channel, cheers! 👍🙂
Hi there, nice project! I've been interested in die filers since seeing one on Mr Pete. I have long thought about building one. As it happens, I have an absolutely enormous old scroll saw, essentially just the casting. I'm considering converting it to a dye filer. One of my concerns is that I would wear out files early because of the short stroke length. All of the dye filers I have seen seem to take a very short stroke, two to three inches. They also tend to use those small socket files. I would prefer to be able to use traditional files because of the wide access to different profiles. Having now built and used one, can I ask your thoughts on this plan? Have you considered a mounting system to accept traditional files? Any input you have would be appreciated, there is not a lot of people to consult about these rare machines
Very nice, pushing the limits of your small tools. I wouldn’t remachine the base. Fill the mill gouges with epoxy putty and give it a coat of paint :-)
I tend too use a milling cutter to countersink holes for bolts and the like a three or 4 flute. It leaves a nice flat edge for the bolt to snug up to! I don't own a mill...yet, but have found it worked for me on my drill press.
Where did you score a large piece of cast from?
I am in QLD and could use the help to source my own pieces for projects. I tend to hound the recycling yards for scrap pieces of steel to build up my stock!
Keep up the good work.
Are there plans for this?
I'd be tempted to find out how to make my own bronze, but then I'd just be smelting metals all the time and not machining
i dont know the ratio i am sure you find it online but its a mixture of brass and tin
@@josephwaldner7752 I thought it was copper and tin with a bunch of other bits like phosphorus. I'm thinking up a whole new hobby here, must stop myself.
Hey mate, I have been wanting to get into machining and was wondering where you get your stock from in Aus?
Where are you in aus and what stock are you looking for?
@@matthewkenchapman I'm in Syd, looking for brass and aluminium round stock for a mini lathe
@@SRCCgames I don't know of any Sydney specific suppliers, but ebay is my go to for brass,you can get good ally from there too, but a local supplier would be easier
Edcon steel try them
Edcon steel are a great source for hobbyists to get small amounts of stock cut to length.
You need angle plate
I know that, normally I'd be able to borrow one from a friend but not at the moment. Plus tooling is expensive and all so I tried to wing it here.
Where did you get that piece of cast iron? it looks like the continuous cast my company makes. :P
All i do is drill rought cut holes.
Do you sell retail ? Got a link. The stuff I buy is usually imported from China.
Since you used brass, it doesn't matter that you didn't have a reamer. If you put a heavy grease like molybdenum or lithium, turning a steel pin back and forth a dozen times will clean it just as well as a reamer because it is so soft
I wanted to use a reamer primarily to get the hole to size. My 1/2" twist drill is a little undersized. In the end boring worked out just fine.
Been making my own out of scrap
Most small mill's like yours and mine (and many large ones as well) can have their head rotated so that it is horizontal. This then means you can do a job, like the one where the base slipped, with the work mounted horizontally. There are limitations on the size of the part but it may be a useful option for the future.
Mr. Pete states he'd rather take a whipping then having to re- tram the head.
Any time you have to go that high use an angle plate.....your vice is nothing to write home bout, it's OK for use on a drilling machine.
That would certainly be the plan in the future. Still running pretty light on tooling for the mill, having only recently bought it, and tooling costing what it does. Cheers
2 aussie youtube makers with die filer vids in as many days. was it on purpose?? haha nice video anyway :)
Thanks, I'm not aware of who else you are referring to about making die filers.
@@artisanmakes th-cam.com/video/0yqEaJrkKu0/w-d-xo.html I'm subscribed to both of you, I'm excited to see how it goes with both of your projects.
@@idefender2k yep thats the one!
And if you want to feel inadequate you can always watch the Clickspring video on it.
Was that a shop-made fly cutter? I would love to see you make one!
Did you go with cast iron for a particular reason? Resonance dampening? Or was it just the most accessible?
A little bit of both. The cast iron was the most affordable solution for getting such a big base and easy for me to obtain. Plus Cast iron is a much nicer material to machine than the other carbon steels I was looking at. Cheers
Well, if you intend doing any significant metal removal you need to have the right tooling........no matter what it cost, but not by buying the very best that an expert would invest in, your tooling will determine the outcome of any project.
A milling vice with a 100mm wide jaw (depending on the size of your mill) would be the very first buy at about A$100 and a set of parallels comes into that must have category too.
Next buy would be a collet chuck and a set of collets......the list is endless, but making a start with the right stuff is the important bit to get you onto the starting line.......God bless the Chinese and EBAY, I'm probably a major shareholder.
Will there be plans available in some way?
I think Martin Models will sell the plans for theirs separately from their casting set. The drawings are obviously based around using their castings, but there is no reason you couldn't use them as the basis for making one from stock.
Looks great. I build something similar, but powered by my lathe. Check out my channel to see the video of it running.
Really nice video but please do not use a measuring stick for marking the holes.
I personally don't see too much of an issue. The jaws are made from hardened steel, it's scratching a fine line in alcohol marker and these are cheapo $10 calipers. I would never do them with my mitutoyos, but with these, it makes working out easier and quicker, even if it's not good for them. Cheers
@@artisanmakes Just want to say. Love your videos. You show people that you also can do something whith smaler maschines. I make an education as an metallsit. We learn a lot about mesuring. The thing is if you juse your calliper it damage the thing only a bit. But if you do this more the masureings are a bit wrong. There a tools. (Dont now the name (--;) it locks like a caliper but has a surface where you can use an criber.
@@artisanmakes I don't know why TH-cam commenters are always so stuck up about this. There's absolutely nothing wrong with using cheap calipers for layout. I've even seen some people use Mitutoyos for it, though those people probably have enough money to consider them disposable.
@@cavemaneca It's because they live in the past, today everything is a throwaway.
OK, now you just cut stock by hand just to mess with me...
At 40 sec
First lol