Brad, the rear window motor is definitely tired but I’m pretty sure the ghost is the key switch sticking. Great project and looking forward to the process!
I wouldn't let the purists bully you into not making the changes you want. It's YOUR vehicle, you make it yours. I think it's going to be awesome. I can't wait to see it finished!
exactly! to me vehicles are designed to be used. So make it as comfortable and as safe to use as possible. If that means new seats, power train, brake system etc then do it. Regarding patina it looks okay at best. I would personally do a new paint job. No matter how cool the patina might look a new paint job always looks better.
Oh I'm not stressed about the purists, I get where they are coming from, but my goal is to make this Jeep look and perform well so I'll actually want to take it on some trips.
@@TrailReconI installed the Howell TBI on my 4.2 in-line 6. Runs awesome now. Highly recommended. But had an experienced shop do it. Beyond my abilities. Forget patina. Preserve the body with a decent paint job. It’s not a museum piece or a show car. Legitimately new front seats with headrests are safety needs. Looking forward to seeing the evolution from run down to ready to run!
Brad, Your ghost window operation is most likely from a switch. That window motor has two terminals, both are positive. Power to one is up, the other is down, ground is through the case. Good lick.
Hey Brad, this is one of my favorite videos. This is such a real world look at what it's like owning an old Jeep or any old vehicle. I'm looking forward to some more videos on the Cherokee. Thanks again for providing such a variety of awesome videos.
You're making me not miss all the old pickups that I've had over the years ('29 Model A RPU, '59 Chevrolet Apache, 1990 F150, 1969 C10, 1974 C10, 1963 C10).
Hey there, I recently chased down some vacuum lines on our 1976 cj7 with the Quadratrac. You mentioned the steering is a bit unhappy when turning which sounds like the “emergency drive” is stuck in the lock position. Once you free it up and take it out of “emergency drive” it should turn nice and smooth….as the limited slip was designed. Our lines were clogged full, but after a can or two of brake parts cleaner and the air compressor, we were back in business. This switch is different than the “high low” gear selector… While reading about how to fix ours, I learned that most people converted the CJ’s equipped with quadratrac to a locking hub setup, turning them into a 2wd/4wd setup, or swapping out the t-case altogether. The borg Warner full-time t-case was just not stout enough for some, making them kinda hard to find parts for. They also use a specific oil that is not cheap. Anyway, I’m stoked to see the build along with all your other adventures…we have a Tacoma as well so your sons build will be a fun watch too! Hope this was at least a little useful. Good luck and safe travels!
Brad , great video! On your back window, I converted my manual crank on mt 1983 Cherokee to a motor because the manual cranks kept stripping. I used a relay from a winch controller to power it and it works great. I had a remote with it but the delay was more than I could control every time when closing it. So I just wired it to a double throw momentary switch and control it from the dash. Simple and reliable without any ghosts since I put in all the wiring to the battery
Hey Brad, take a look at Retrosound for a classic looking modern stereo. They make some pretty awesome head units. hLove to see the Cherokee in the garage!
The switch is missing, but you can see the cut out from where it use to be, I haven't started tracing vacuum switches yet... but also on the to do list!
Brad, Thinking about your possessed window. You mentioned changing the motor. I can't picture how the motor can engage on its own in a circuit where there is a switch, or switch/relay. So, I think you need to check upstream of the motor. Even if your motor is totally shorting out internally, it wouldn't have electricity without a switch or relay sending some its way. My 2 cents, from hard learned lessons. Lol
Man! Some of the same things I have done to my 86 Grand Wagoneer. I put the Sniper EFI system, replaced the engine, power steering, headliner, fuel hose, speedo cable, window tracks, cleaned the contacts on my back window as well as replaced all the window wiper rubber. I too had no speakers but picked them up recently and now I have AM but no FM. It's an antenna thing. Once you put the EFI you'll be happy you did and won't have to smell the fuel vapors in the garage. I just rebuilt the rag joint and decided against the lift for now, my kids get in pretty easy at the stock ride height. But I am in need of rear leaf springs as I'm sagging in the back. Right now my issue is hot starts. The vehicle has to cool off a little before starting and I believe it is due to my external fuel pump overheating or vapor lock due to proximity to the exhaust. Have fun! These old rigs will give you a run for your money, but boy are they satisfying to drive.
I love what your doing. Very similar to what I’m doing with my 1993 Jeep YJ right now. I’ve been working through it piece by piece to fix all the little things and bring it back to life. It won’t ever be show room finished, but it will have gained a new life and be able to be enjoyed for many many more years.
FYI, If you pull the York compressor for the AC, keep it to make onboard air compressor. Some like to switch to the sanden unit because its cheaper than a York.
Brad this video hits home for a lot of us DIYers truth is most of us spent so much time in the garage trying to fix problems and we get very frustrated too 😊
I have a 69 Wag that has been patiently waiting for me to get around to finishing an engine swap. Going with Fitec efi, btw. Thanks for the inspiration!
My first vehicle was a '76 Wagoneer with the full time 4wd. The vacuum switch in the glove box wasn't to put it into low range, it was a part time override you could use in low traction situations. It had a warning label on it that made it sound Like the Jeep would self destruct if you used it for anything but your moment of greatest need, but that always begged the question of whether this was truly that moment or if another more dire moment was coming? One time I had a vacuum hose come off and it started dragging tires when I turned which makes sense now but really freaked an 18yr me out thinking there was something seriously wrong with the front diff or something. I had a lot of fun time in that Jeep and I'm excited to see this build!
The vacuum switch in the glovebox activates the center diff lock, not low range, it should have both. That vacuum switch saved my butt twice in my 73 Wagoneer when I blew a rear ring and pinion. Only the infamous Quadratrac transfer cases had them.
Back in those days of the old jeeps, they used a lot of General Motors parts ,the power, steering pumps, the windshield washers, wiper motors the brake master cylinder and other brake stuff. Most of it came from General Motors or Delco Remy back in the day you might check that stuff out.
Brad you might want to talk to Christian Hazel, he was editor of 4WOR, is a bonafide Jeep expert, and has a similar SJ that he just LS swapped. I believe he lives in North County.
I have an 86 Bronco thats been my daily driver for 3 years now. Lots of late nights were spent making it mine.and many more to come. But I’ll never remotely consider trading it in for anything newer. Classic SUV’s are so durable. And super easy to repair and maintain. I do have the advantage of owning a body shop which also has a lift. Which makes it easier than the average guy. BTW. If you’re ever in the Mesa/ Phoenix Area and need some assistance. Feel free to stop by. I would also be interested in joining you folks for a night out camping in the area. Great content. Love the channel 👍🏻
Knob in glove box - Hey Brad, the knob in the glove box was to activate an air locker in the transfer case. It would lock the front and rear drivelines so they would spin at the same rate. About the same thing as a air locker in a axle. You should be able to locate a air line going up in to the engine compartment from the transfer case. Good idea to check and replace the line as they get old and crack. The low gear pull handle in yours is the normal low gear set up in those rigs. More build videos on this rig please! Can’t wait to see this thing on some tougher trails!
Don't neglect the A/C system. If it is a large York style compressor then everything can be refreshed/replaced with ease and modern compressors arrive complete with their own oil packet internally released already.
WOW! Talk about too many irons in the fire! I admire your ambition! I can’t even imaging what your typical day looks like running the social media, all the emails and phone calls, planning adventures, going on adventures, and keeping mama happy!!!! Hats off- Wow!!
I commend you for tackling your all the work your talking about on your Cherokee , it just takes time and a lot of money , I had a 76 heavy half blazer , I went through it like your doing and it cost 20,000 to do it but it was so much worth it , 550 horse power, 420 torque , 35 tires and 6" lift , so much fun and memories
Ive been tooling on my buddy's 90 grand wagoneer with him.. We did the relay mod for the rear window, it goes up and down tremendously faster. There is also a stop switch in the tailgate on the passenger side that is supposed to cut off power when the window is up, maybe down as well?? This may be part of your issue. Good luck with the washer pump....need some loooooong skinny fingers
As a purist. There is nothing wrong with improving and making a vehicle more enjoyable to drive. That’s why I have two Grand Wagoneers - ha! One all factory and one upgraded, lifted, 32” BFGs, tinted, fuel injection, etc. on your rear window, check to see if your gasket is gone. Without the gasket it keeps trying to lift even when it should be done. At least that’s true on my 87 and 91’s.
Brad I agree with upgrading the seats and belts if your not comfortble and dont feel safe you wont want to drive it let Robby Layton paint it for you very profesional like the direction you are going with your build
Hi Brad - I have a 1979 J10 so I understand your pains. I put a new wiring harness and that eliminated most of the gremlins. Worth considering and not really difficult. I also have wagoneer seats and a proper seat belt so that's an easy fix. 33s fit well with a 4-inch lift.
I was going to say, Nearly 50year old wiring is going to lead to insane amounts of gremlins coming up. It's a lot of work but a full rewire would make things safer, better, more reliable and would eliminate the majority of the quirks.
For a winch mount, you can do a hidden mount like they offered in the 70s. It goes in between the front springs under the front crossmember, pretty slick setup. Most aftermarket bumpers look terrible on these things, like buck teeth. It is possible to build a nice one though.
Have you considered a limit switch being bad on the rear window? Rebuilding drum brakes is actually fairly easy, now I say that because we did not have disc when I grew up, get a coat hanger, a metal one, and bend it to hook the springs, just pull them off, thats the easy way
Hey Brad, Watching your video gave me flashbacks. Used to have a 73 cj5 with the 304. Same color and trim. Many of the same issues. After fighting ghosts in the wiring to the point of exasperation, I wound up installing a full painless harness. Regarding the fuel vapors, my parents had a 74 Wagoneer. My dad was constantly searching the fuel system, trying to limit the vapors. Well, one day it caught fire due to the vapors. AMC jeeps had a lot of issues. As far as the resto vs. mod, I would go radically mod. Too many problems and frustrations with a resto on these jeeps.
When servicing drums, I’ve found having multiple size C clamps helps with giving you more “hands”. Long bent needle nose is a must. It sounds like you have some wiring to do 😅
It's your Jeep, do what makes you happy. This will look great with new paint. The green over white looks so vintage. I don't know about SoCal but you don't see FSJs very often so great job keeping this on the road. Keep the build clean with a bit of vintage and it'll look great. Definitely recommend a fuel injection and freewheeling hub swap. You can also look into a Gear Vendors overdrive if you install freewheeling hubs. Don't cut up the dash for a radio, go with Retrosound. You can get clear lenses for the dome lights from LMC truck. It's the same lens as a 1970 Chevy C10. It would be cool if you got modern seats and covered them with green vinyl. This would look cool with a set of KC Daylighters on the bumper. From a CJ owner, your fuel gauge sounds normal for a Jeep. Full on mine reads 5/8. It's a Jeep thing. Check the sending unit. If the tank's ever been taken out and opened it may be bent.
91 wiper bottle should have pump in it. Steering column repair, ignition, wiper switches cause many gremlins. Rear window harness... motor, or switch causing draw? Painless wiring, omix-ada, crown automotive are good parts sources. EFI TBI well worth it. Custom hidden winch mount is nice (like on XJ, MJ) retain oem chrome bumpers.
For classic Car radios with modern function consider customautosoundmfg I used them for my 1964 Chevy II Nova, no dash trimming knobs match original and all the tech is in the background. They might not have turn key match for your vehicle, but I bet they would work with you to find the closest fit.
At the end of your video you said the the engine would just suddenly stall. I had the same problem for a year with my 1978 Cherokee 360 cu in. Finally figured out the problem. There is a large black electrical connector at the distributor. Apparently at the factory they used some kind of dielectric grease on this connector and the fuse block on the firewall. Try cleaning both the connector and the fuse block.
If you run the exhaust to the rear the tail pipe must exit to the side. If you go straight out of the rear the fumes will blow back inside the rear window opening when you're driving.
I had a 74 Cherokee Chief with a 401. I loved that truck and wish I still had it. I stayed a year down and build up then lost my job and couldn't finish. I lost it.
Just a few ideas- Remove rear seats, Add cage with seats that can accommodate seatbelt harnesses. Or leave the seats and reach out to companies that may be able to make a more modern style of seatbelt.
If you go 33x10.50s you might be able to use those wheels. Going to be fun watching you transform your Jeep, I'm in the middle of a frame off on a 1961 F100 4x4 that's been in the family since 73 so I love watching the old stuff get fixed up.
I would suggest that your front end / steering issue with the full time transfer case is a lubrication problem. These require a special (used to be whale oil) lubricant so the front / rear slip differential works properly. Went through all these problems you are finding with a 1979 Cherokee Chief my son and I fixed up for him, he kicks himself for getting rid of it years later. The 401 by the way is a real truck engine, some even had valve rotators, Tom Mcahill writing for Mechanix Illustrated Magazine towing an Airstream trailer at over 100 mph said it was the best tow vehicle he ever drove. Thanks for your continued great entertainment!
Hello again, Drinking Coffee this morning trying to wake up, I remember you talking about your steering problem, then I went back to the video and seen your power steering reservoir , I am by know means a expert but I have never seen one leaning that far down, it should be upright. I would believe it is getting air in the lines like that. This is coming from a guy going back to the junkyard for the 4th day in a row that is 1 bolt short from getting a front drive shaft off from the Double Cardan on locked up Transfer Case under a 77 Waggoneer. Today is Victory Day, As my 64 year old Brain has finally started to figure out the problem. Cut a hole through the floor above the Double Cardan. 3 Day old problem solved in 5 Minutes.So far I have got a Pristine Instrument Gauge Cluster & Original AMC AM FM Radio looks like it came out of the box, never used Cigarette Lighter, Power Steering Unit & Radiator, Front Seats all the back panels, My new theme is Original Cherokee Black and Waggoneer Blue. I took the body all the way to bare metal and primered it, cut out all the rust Flared the Wheel Wells had no other choice. I guess i've bored you enough , Hopefully my 2 cents is better than a Wooden Nickel.
As far as the windshield squirts. Grab a mid 2000s washer fluid bottle from the junk yard, any vehicle will do. 90 percent of them use the same pump. Grab a new dorman universal pump and wire it in. They come with rubber grommets to make it fit perfect.
I agree with the other comments about the pierce it’s your rig your ideas do what you want. As for the seats, I toss both benches but a new bench in the rear and maybe two buckets in the front.👍🏽
Major advice: when you paint, if you remove or replace the windshield KEEP AND REUSE THE OEM windshield gasket. The new ones are a bear to get the trim reinstalled into the gasket. Also, replacements all leak.
VERY INTERESTING VIDEO!! I AGREE ABOUT THE PAINT JOB! THE DRUM BRAKES AREN'T REALLY THAT DIFFICULT!!!! ONE HINT WHEN DOING THIS IS TO TAKE BOTH REAR TIRES OFF, TAKE THE DRUMS OFF, TEAR ONE SIDE DOWN AND USE THE STILL ASSEMBLED SIDE AS A REFERENCE FOR REASSEMBLY! I HAVE NEVER DONE THE DRUMS ON A JEEP, BUT I HAVE DONE THEM ON MANY OTHER TYPES OF VEHICLES!!! I AM NOT A PROFESSIONAL MECHANIC, BUT I HAVE WORKED ON MANY OF THE OLDER VEHICLES!!!!!! YOU COULD ALSO TAKE A PICTURE ON YOUR PHONE AS A REFERENCE, WHICH WE COULDN'T DO BACK IN THE DAY, UNLESS WE HAD A POLAROID CAMERA!!! I REALLY ENJOY THESE VIDEOS, AND AM LOOKING FORWARD TO SEEING WHAT YOU TO THIS JEEP!!! I USED TO HAVE A 63 INTERNATIONAL TRAVEL ALL, WHICH I NOW WISH I HAD KEPT!! HAVE A GREAT DAY AND ENJOY THE REBUILD!!!
This reminds me of owning a boat. The best two days are the day you buy it and the day you sell it. You should check out Sarah n Tuned’s channel. She has a lot of great DIY restoration projects and is very meticulous.
Hey Brad. Not sure if you’ll see this but I wanted to offer my help if you ever need it when it comes to restoring that old Coleman gear you’ve got. I love fixing them up and getting them running like new. It’s one of my favorite hobbies aside from off-roading.
I had a 79 Jeep Cherokee 2 Door, like yours. Mine had the 258 Straight 6 Engine, with a manual 3 Speed Transmission. Great running Truck, but could never get really good strong brakes on it.
Had to go back to review your previous restomod videos and although our projects are a little different you've given me some ideas. Looking forward to future editions. I'm wrenching on a 1976 Amgen, 5-ton M813 6X6.
Cool Jeep, one issue with running the exhaust out the rear is if you ever plan on driving with the back window down the air flow has a tendency to pull the exhaust fumes into the vehicle, depending, of course, on were you have the actual exhaust tip.....just a thought.....
I just bought a 1986 with a 360 and 727 torqueflite transmsission. I got 13 mpg out of it driving it from Idaho to Utah. I was pretty impressed. I have a lot of stuff to do to it. Funny enough its already on 33" tires.
as a limey i prefer this old 'Hulk' With the improvements to the suspension, better breathing etc it will be great. I would love one of these over the modern ones. Yes i know its limitations but it screams what i imagine the old yank off road camping trips should be.
I'm really looking forward to this series. I too have a 1974 resto mod, except it's a CJ5 with the 304(with some modifications). I still have plenty of work to do on it as well, like power steering and power brakes... Maybe one day I'll find a top and doors for it. I also had electrical gremlins running around playing tricks like you, but I gutted the old electrical rats nest, went with a new wiring harness and fuse box. Maybe something for you to consider.
Hey I’ve got a 75 CJ did tons of work on. Did the power steering and went with power disc brakes. Made a huge difference in driving behavior and pretty much replaced everything on it. But I’ve had her for over 40 years can’t sell.
The exhaust tip needs to be a side dump. These fsj aero will pull the exhaust through your back window with a normal back exhaust tip. I would move it to be straight out the side after the back wheel. The factory for all the years did that because they new it was a problem. I have a 88 Grand Wagoneer with 5.3 swap that the exhaust shop messed up and didn’t listen. I tried it and switch it back to a side exit.
Some times lift companies go conservative on tire size. There is a company that sells a 4” for my truck and says it will work with 31” tires but my truck comes with 32” from the factory.
Take LOTS of pictures of the stuff as you take it apart (drum brakes hint, hint) so you know which spring went where, and which pad was the front pad vs back pad. might want to consider replacing the parking brake stuff while you're in there too and possibly axle seals.
Omg. I have an 1989 Bronco and went through every one of these problems. You have to LOVE (which I do love the Bronco) the vehicle to own it and deal with these issues that will be constant. Re: gas vapors - my issue turned out it was a venting issue on the bronco Re: rear window, I just removed it (I.e. it broke) and went soft top. Re: exhaust issue for me was header leaking Re: battery, I installed a remote cut off switch from the cab to kill the battery in park, I also installed a mounted battery tender so I can plug it in while not driven Re: hood paint - I used rino liner :) that flat hood gets sun damage easy. I do love patina. Re: weather stripping: super hard but worth it. It will address lots of rattles too in the side and rear doors. Re: headliner: I just pulled the head liner and foam off all together. Re: steering wheel: omg so painful. Wait till the blinker indicator goes out because the “catch” is made of plastic. It will not pass inspection and it is such a pain to replace. Re: windshield wipers - I eventually had to replace the motor. Also, keep your windows rolled up, people stole my windshield wiper and light KNOBs!!! I went to eBay to buy new ones and found out why - they sell them at a premium back to me! Re: sears, I went with new seats in the front! You should to :) I kept the rear but when they fold forward it hits the roll cage I installed. Re: I wish I could replace my headlights but no one sells them. I love your headlight fix. Re: winch - I agree I went with a new front bumper. Re: fuel economy - I got 10 mpg from the factory (I have the original window sticker). It is fuel injected to Re: alternator - I decided to put a digital gauge to see the voltage in the cab Re: starters will always be fun. Buy the best, newly built if you can I have owned the bronco since 1998. I cannot sell it. Good luck, I know your pain brother and look forward to watching you restore that old girl.
Re your lift, look at LUBR bronco fitments, lifted uncut bronco. You can do a smallbody lift, run classic skinny truck tires. You're patina is sweet actually, doesn't get much better.
My 47 2a had a ghost in the starter. It once tried to start at 1am in my friends garage, luckily in N otherwise it surely would have really caused some chaos. And again at my place, this time in R, luckily it got stuck on the curb across the street and not in the neighbors sliding glass door. I replaced it all but pretty sure it was the starter switch.
Great Video, I have a 75 Cherokee S . We have a lot of the same issues . This is how I fixed the gas Fumes, I popped of that back removable panel by the gas tank , and there are some gas tank vent tubes that get rotted and leak , I should have replaced them , but just duct taped them up, Never had a problem since. "LOL " With the Electric Window. My dash switch would only go down too, until it stopped working. Mine goes up and down with the key only, and only with the motor running, it blows a fuse about every 3 months. Sorry to hear about the Ghost in the Machine. That huge bundle of wires in the back by the tail gate. I believe that has a lot of problems, Mine is way too big for just a few wires that are needed, the opening and closing of the tailgate stresses the wires on mine. I am going to rewire it and find the problem sooner than later. Fine I got a brand new up and down switch thought my problem was solved, it did nothing but pointed me in the right direction. Glad to find your Videos on TH-cam looking forward to see someone else going through this same Historical path of the long and winding road.
Please paint this and know patina is for hermits and mad max enthusiast. I would keep og dash with updated odd and ends, definitely change out all that Brady bunch green. Last keep door handles but use them as up and down switch for power windows.
Regarding the rear window check the switch before moving to the motor. Inside the glove box is the switch for looking the center diff. The level for the low gear is under the drivers seat
The sky is the limit on the 401, you could go big and do a stroker kit but personally I'd really just concentrate on the top side. a good set of flowing heads and exhaust will do wonders. Get a good set of heads, have them ported and will make a big difference. I'd look at possibly a cam that's got some good torque specs. I wouldn't go crazy, just small mods. Fuel injection is cool, I personally don't run it on anything, nothing wrong with it...just like to be able to fix a problem quickly and not go down a rabbit hole.
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Brad, the rear window motor is definitely tired but I’m pretty sure the ghost is the key switch sticking. Great project and looking forward to the process!
What he said I would be looking for the switch in the rear gate
Check the guide track for binding and dirt.
Man, what slippery slope~!
I wouldn't let the purists bully you into not making the changes you want. It's YOUR vehicle, you make it yours. I think it's going to be awesome. I can't wait to see it finished!
I suspect "patina" is often used as a well-meaning excuse by folks who don't want to put the money into a professional repaint job!
exactly! to me vehicles are designed to be used. So make it as comfortable and as safe to use as possible. If that means new seats, power train, brake system etc then do it. Regarding patina it looks okay at best. I would personally do a new paint job. No matter how cool the patina might look a new paint job always looks better.
Oh I'm not stressed about the purists, I get where they are coming from, but my goal is to make this Jeep look and perform well so I'll actually want to take it on some trips.
@@TrailReconI installed the Howell TBI on my 4.2 in-line 6. Runs awesome now. Highly recommended. But had an experienced shop do it. Beyond my abilities.
Forget patina. Preserve the body with a decent paint job. It’s not a museum piece or a show car.
Legitimately new front seats with headrests are safety needs. Looking forward to seeing the evolution from run down to ready to run!
Brad, Your ghost window operation is most likely from a switch. That window motor has two terminals, both are positive. Power to one is up, the other is down, ground is through the case. Good lick.
Hey Brad, this is one of my favorite videos. This is such a real world look at what it's like owning an old Jeep or any old vehicle. I'm looking forward to some more videos on the Cherokee. Thanks again for providing such a variety of awesome videos.
You're making me not miss all the old pickups that I've had over the years ('29 Model A RPU, '59 Chevrolet Apache, 1990 F150, 1969 C10, 1974 C10, 1963 C10).
Hey there, I recently chased down some vacuum lines on our 1976 cj7 with the Quadratrac. You mentioned the steering is a bit unhappy when turning which sounds like the “emergency drive” is stuck in the lock position. Once you free it up and take it out of “emergency drive” it should turn nice and smooth….as the limited slip was designed. Our lines were clogged full, but after a can or two of brake parts cleaner and the air compressor, we were back in business. This switch is different than the “high low” gear selector…
While reading about how to fix ours, I learned that most people converted the CJ’s equipped with quadratrac to a locking hub setup, turning them into a 2wd/4wd setup, or swapping out the t-case altogether. The borg Warner full-time t-case was just not stout enough for some, making them kinda hard to find parts for. They also use a specific oil that is not cheap. Anyway, I’m stoked to see the build along with all your other adventures…we have a Tacoma as well so your sons build will be a fun watch too!
Hope this was at least a little useful.
Good luck and safe travels!
best thing to do with a new project, live with it. drive it for a bit, stare at it and just soak it in. Cant wait to what happens with this one!
Just the person who loved that jeep. Letting you know to treat her right.
Old vehicles are awesome and need TLC - you show it love and it will love you back.
I would leave the seats.
Brad , great video! On your back window, I converted my manual crank on mt 1983 Cherokee to a motor because the manual cranks kept stripping. I used a relay from a winch controller to power it and it works great. I had a remote with it but the delay was more than I could control every time when closing it. So I just wired it to a double throw momentary switch and control it from the dash. Simple and reliable without any ghosts since I put in all the wiring to the battery
Hey Brad, take a look at Retrosound for a classic looking modern stereo. They make some pretty awesome head units. hLove to see the Cherokee in the garage!
Brad you can add safety with a nice roll bar and add shoulder restraints to the bar. Glad you're bringing new life to an old Jeep.
The low range is original. The knob in the glove box is emergency drive for the Quadra trac transfer case. It locks both axles together.
Thank you! I was actually trying to look that up after I filmed this because I know I miss spoke.
Mine is a vacuum switch with 3 vac hoses attached. Yours might be the same?
The switch is missing, but you can see the cut out from where it use to be, I haven't started tracing vacuum switches yet... but also on the to do list!
Beautiful 74' Jeep Cherokee...I had one (Bronze colored) and I enjoy every little detail that you share about your 74'.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Brad, Thinking about your possessed window. You mentioned changing the motor. I can't picture how the motor can engage on its own in a circuit where there is a switch, or switch/relay. So, I think you need to check upstream of the motor. Even if your motor is totally shorting out internally, it wouldn't have electricity without a switch or relay sending some its way. My 2 cents, from hard learned lessons. Lol
Thank you! When the motor arrives, I'll be tracing the whole system and even taking a closure look at the switch onto dash.. Thank you!
Man! Some of the same things I have done to my 86 Grand Wagoneer. I put the Sniper EFI system, replaced the engine, power steering, headliner, fuel hose, speedo cable, window tracks, cleaned the contacts on my back window as well as replaced all the window wiper rubber. I too had no speakers but picked them up recently and now I have AM but no FM. It's an antenna thing. Once you put the EFI you'll be happy you did and won't have to smell the fuel vapors in the garage. I just rebuilt the rag joint and decided against the lift for now, my kids get in pretty easy at the stock ride height. But I am in need of rear leaf springs as I'm sagging in the back. Right now my issue is hot starts. The vehicle has to cool off a little before starting and I believe it is due to my external fuel pump overheating or vapor lock due to proximity to the exhaust. Have fun! These old rigs will give you a run for your money, but boy are they satisfying to drive.
I love what your doing. Very similar to what I’m doing with my 1993 Jeep YJ right now. I’ve been working through it piece by piece to fix all the little things and bring it back to life. It won’t ever be show room finished, but it will have gained a new life and be able to be enjoyed for many many more years.
I love the '74 Cherokee. She needs a lot of love. I'm excited to see this project evolve, Make it yours!
You've got some great plans for the Cherokee. Can't wait to watch the series and see it come together!
I'm really looking forward to seeing what you do with this. Thanks for taking the time to share it.
"AM radio" now I have a catchy 90s song stuck in my head. 😄 Also, cut away. You'll be happy to have done so when you get the larger tires on.
FYI, If you pull the York compressor for the AC, keep it to make onboard air compressor. Some like to switch to the sanden unit because its cheaper than a York.
Brad this video hits home for a lot of us DIYers truth is most of us spent so much time in the garage trying to fix problems and we get very frustrated too 😊
Frustration is part and parcel with older equipment, unfortunately. And with newer equipments as well!
I have a 69 Wag that has been patiently waiting for me to get around to finishing an engine swap. Going with Fitec efi, btw. Thanks for the inspiration!
My first vehicle was a '76 Wagoneer with the full time 4wd. The vacuum switch in the glove box wasn't to put it into low range, it was a part time override you could use in low traction situations. It had a warning label on it that made it sound Like the Jeep would self destruct if you used it for anything but your moment of greatest need, but that always begged the question of whether this was truly that moment or if another more dire moment was coming?
One time I had a vacuum hose come off and it started dragging tires when I turned which makes sense now but really freaked an 18yr me out thinking there was something seriously wrong with the front diff or something.
I had a lot of fun time in that Jeep and I'm excited to see this build!
The vacuum switch in the glovebox activates the center diff lock, not low range, it should have both. That vacuum switch saved my butt twice in my 73 Wagoneer when I blew a rear ring and pinion. Only the infamous Quadratrac transfer cases had them.
Back in those days of the old jeeps, they used a lot of General Motors parts ,the power, steering pumps, the windshield washers, wiper motors the brake master cylinder and other brake stuff. Most of it came from General Motors or Delco Remy back in the day you might check that stuff out.
Brad you might want to talk to Christian Hazel, he was editor of 4WOR, is a bonafide Jeep expert, and has a similar SJ that he just LS swapped. I believe he lives in North County.
LS swap in that beast would be a great step in the right direction for multiple reasons.
Yup, paint it! That’s my preference as well. Patina is cool, but I like clean and shiny! I’m looking forward to this build, and future adventures.
I have an 86 Bronco thats been my daily driver for 3 years now. Lots of late nights were spent making it mine.and many more to come. But I’ll never remotely consider trading it in for anything newer. Classic SUV’s are so durable. And super easy to repair and maintain.
I do have the advantage of owning a body shop which also has a lift. Which makes it easier than the average guy.
BTW. If you’re ever in the Mesa/ Phoenix Area and need some assistance. Feel free to stop by. I would also be interested in joining you folks for a night out camping in the area.
Great content. Love the channel 👍🏻
Knob in glove box - Hey Brad, the knob in the glove box was to activate an air locker in the transfer case. It would lock the front and rear drivelines so they would spin at the same rate. About the same thing as a air locker in a axle. You should be able to locate a air line going up in to the engine compartment from the transfer case. Good idea to check and replace the line as they get old and crack. The low gear pull handle in yours is the normal low gear set up in those rigs. More build videos on this rig please! Can’t wait to see this thing on some tougher trails!
Don't neglect the A/C system. If it is a large York style compressor then everything can be refreshed/replaced with ease and modern compressors arrive complete with their own oil packet internally released already.
WOW! Talk about too many irons in the fire! I admire your ambition! I can’t even imaging what your typical day looks like running the social media, all the emails and phone calls, planning adventures, going on adventures, and keeping mama happy!!!! Hats off- Wow!!
Got to stay busy and keep moving!
Great update. Your headed the right direction. -1981 Cherokee owner.
Thanks 👍
I commend you for tackling your all the work your talking about on your Cherokee , it just takes time and a lot of money , I had a 76 heavy half blazer , I went through it like your doing and it cost 20,000 to do it but it was so much worth it , 550 horse power, 420 torque , 35 tires and 6" lift , so much fun and memories
Ive been tooling on my buddy's 90 grand wagoneer with him.. We did the relay mod for the rear window, it goes up and down tremendously faster. There is also a stop switch in the tailgate on the passenger side that is supposed to cut off power when the window is up, maybe down as well?? This may be part of your issue.
Good luck with the washer pump....need some loooooong skinny fingers
As a purist. There is nothing wrong with improving and making a vehicle more enjoyable to drive.
That’s why I have two Grand Wagoneers - ha! One all factory and one upgraded, lifted, 32” BFGs, tinted, fuel injection, etc.
on your rear window, check to see if your gasket is gone. Without the gasket it keeps trying to lift even when it should be done. At least that’s true on my 87 and 91’s.
Oh vintage iron makes my heart so happy!
I’m here for this build!
Can’t wait to see how this project turns out!
Brad I agree with upgrading the seats and belts if your not comfortble and dont feel safe you wont want to drive it let Robby Layton paint it for you very profesional like the direction you are going with your build
the Peral Green is so Retro, I love it
Hi Brad - I have a 1979 J10 so I understand your pains. I put a new wiring harness and that eliminated most of the gremlins. Worth considering and not really difficult. I also have wagoneer seats and a proper seat belt so that's an easy fix. 33s fit well with a 4-inch lift.
I was going to say, Nearly 50year old wiring is going to lead to insane amounts of gremlins coming up. It's a lot of work but a full rewire would make things safer, better, more reliable and would eliminate the majority of the quirks.
I wanna say the switch in the tailgate for the window is the issue. Had same issue on 84 k5 blazer. Hit bumps and the window had a mind of it's own.
Hi, Brad. You got me real interested in your videos. Thank you for posting such interesting stuff, and let me know if you're ever up on the mountain.
For a winch mount, you can do a hidden mount like they offered in the 70s. It goes in between the front springs under the front crossmember, pretty slick setup. Most aftermarket bumpers look terrible on these things, like buck teeth. It is possible to build a nice one though.
Buck toothed humans all gasp, in unison….
I like the idea of a hidden winch, I'll have to take a closure look behind the bumper.
BJ's Offroad sells some nice-looking bumpers. I have an old-school Warn bumper I plan to use. (might make me buck-toof? lol)
Have you considered a limit switch being bad on the rear window? Rebuilding drum brakes is actually fairly easy, now I say that because we did not have disc when I grew up, get a coat hanger, a metal one, and bend it to hook the springs, just pull them off, thats the easy way
And take picture before you take it apart !
Hey Brad,
Watching your video gave me flashbacks. Used to have a 73 cj5 with the 304. Same color and trim. Many of the same issues. After fighting ghosts in the wiring to the point of exasperation, I wound up installing a full painless harness.
Regarding the fuel vapors, my parents had a 74 Wagoneer. My dad was constantly searching the fuel system, trying to limit the vapors. Well, one day it caught fire due to the vapors. AMC jeeps had a lot of issues.
As far as the resto vs. mod, I would go radically mod. Too many problems and frustrations with a resto on these jeeps.
When servicing drums, I’ve found having multiple size C clamps helps with giving you more “hands”. Long bent needle nose is a must. It sounds like you have some wiring to do 😅
It's your Jeep, do what makes you happy. This will look great with new paint. The green over white looks so vintage. I don't know about SoCal but you don't see FSJs very often so great job keeping this on the road. Keep the build clean with a bit of vintage and it'll look great.
Definitely recommend a fuel injection and freewheeling hub swap. You can also look into a Gear Vendors overdrive if you install freewheeling hubs. Don't cut up the dash for a radio, go with Retrosound. You can get clear lenses for the dome lights from LMC truck. It's the same lens as a 1970 Chevy C10. It would be cool if you got modern seats and covered them with green vinyl. This would look cool with a set of KC Daylighters on the bumper.
From a CJ owner, your fuel gauge sounds normal for a Jeep. Full on mine reads 5/8. It's a Jeep thing. Check the sending unit. If the tank's ever been taken out and opened it may be bent.
For the ws washers, get a squirt bottle of 20/10, stick arm out window and squirt it on windshield.
91 wiper bottle should have pump in it. Steering column repair, ignition, wiper switches cause many gremlins. Rear window harness... motor, or switch causing draw?
Painless wiring, omix-ada, crown automotive are good parts sources.
EFI TBI well worth it.
Custom hidden winch mount is nice (like on XJ, MJ) retain oem chrome bumpers.
For classic Car radios with modern function consider customautosoundmfg I used them for my 1964 Chevy II Nova, no dash trimming knobs match original and all the tech is in the background. They might not have turn key match for your vehicle, but I bet they would work with you to find the closest fit.
I am another proud 74 Cherokee owner been living with most of the same problems but wouldn't trade it for anything
My first car was a ‘79 Cherokee Chief. This brings back a lot of memories of that cool tank.
At the end of your video you said the the engine would just suddenly stall. I had the same problem for a year with my 1978 Cherokee 360 cu in. Finally figured out the problem. There is a large black electrical connector at the distributor. Apparently at the factory they used some kind of dielectric grease on this connector and the fuse block on the firewall. Try cleaning both the connector and the fuse block.
My dad had a 1975 Wagoneer and this is really making me nostalgic for those days! A lot of similarities in those vehicles
Love old car's and truck's they just developed there own personality and they let you know it
This one has a whole lot of personality... I love it!
New seats, no question. Hoping you do a light gray interior. Would go nice with the green. Great project!
If you run the exhaust to the rear the tail pipe must exit to the side. If you go straight out of the rear the fumes will blow back inside the rear window opening when you're driving.
I had a 74 Cherokee Chief with a 401. I loved that truck and wish I still had it. I stayed a year down and build up then lost my job and couldn't finish. I lost it.
Sorry to hear that.
Just a few ideas- Remove rear seats, Add cage with seats that can accommodate seatbelt harnesses. Or leave the seats and reach out to companies that may be able to make a more modern style of seatbelt.
If you go 33x10.50s you might be able to use those wheels. Going to be fun watching you transform your Jeep, I'm in the middle of a frame off on a 1961 F100 4x4 that's been in the family since 73 so I love watching the old stuff get fixed up.
Love those old F100's!
To replace your wiper fluid pump, use a boat bilge pump. Just make sure it is negative ground since many boats are positive ground.
Excited for this. I love an old vehicle redone with modern touches.
Certainly a huge project! Will be very special when finished. Best wishes for you in 2023 !
Fingers crossed! Thank you!
I would suggest that your front end / steering issue with the full time transfer case is a lubrication problem. These require a special (used to be whale oil) lubricant so the front / rear slip differential works properly. Went through all these problems you are finding with a 1979 Cherokee Chief my son and I fixed up for him, he kicks himself for getting rid of it years later. The 401 by the way is a real truck engine, some even had valve rotators, Tom Mcahill writing for Mechanix Illustrated Magazine towing an Airstream trailer at over 100 mph said it was the best tow vehicle he ever drove. Thanks for your continued great entertainment!
Hello again, Drinking Coffee this morning trying to wake up, I remember you talking about your steering problem, then I went back to the video and seen your power steering reservoir , I am by know means a expert but I have never seen one leaning that far down, it should be upright. I would believe it is getting air in the lines like that. This is coming from a guy going back to the junkyard for the 4th day in a row that is 1 bolt short from getting a front drive shaft off from the Double Cardan on locked up Transfer Case under a 77 Waggoneer. Today is Victory Day, As my 64 year old Brain has finally started to figure out the problem. Cut a hole through the floor above the Double Cardan. 3 Day old problem solved in 5 Minutes.So far I have got a Pristine Instrument Gauge Cluster & Original AMC AM FM Radio looks like it came out of the box, never used Cigarette Lighter, Power Steering Unit & Radiator, Front Seats all the back panels, My new theme is Original Cherokee Black and Waggoneer Blue. I took the body all the way to bare metal and primered it, cut out all the rust Flared the Wheel Wells had no other choice. I guess i've bored you enough , Hopefully my 2 cents is better than a Wooden Nickel.
Get a squirt bottle for washer fluid and stick it out of the drivers window for a really old school work around.
Brad I'm so glad you're doing the Cherokee project it's very exciting!
As far as the windshield squirts. Grab a mid 2000s washer fluid bottle from the junk yard, any vehicle will do. 90 percent of them use the same pump. Grab a new dorman universal pump and wire it in. They come with rubber grommets to make it fit perfect.
I agree with the other comments about the pierce it’s your rig your ideas do what you want. As for the seats, I toss both benches but a new bench in the rear and maybe two buckets in the front.👍🏽
Major advice: when you paint, if you remove or replace the windshield KEEP AND REUSE THE OEM windshield gasket. The new ones are a bear to get the trim reinstalled into the gasket.
Also, replacements all leak.
So excited for the Cherokee buildi.. love the direction you are going.. just make sure to get Marco involved.. we need more Marco cooking!
Thank you for the update, Brad! Love classic cars and trucks, so I'm looking forward to the build/fix of this old Jeep.
VERY INTERESTING VIDEO!! I AGREE ABOUT THE PAINT JOB! THE DRUM BRAKES AREN'T REALLY THAT DIFFICULT!!!! ONE HINT WHEN DOING THIS IS TO TAKE BOTH REAR TIRES OFF, TAKE THE DRUMS OFF, TEAR ONE SIDE DOWN AND USE THE STILL ASSEMBLED SIDE AS A REFERENCE FOR REASSEMBLY! I HAVE NEVER DONE THE DRUMS ON A JEEP, BUT I HAVE DONE THEM ON MANY OTHER TYPES OF VEHICLES!!! I AM NOT A PROFESSIONAL MECHANIC, BUT I HAVE WORKED ON MANY OF THE OLDER VEHICLES!!!!!! YOU COULD ALSO TAKE A PICTURE ON YOUR PHONE AS A REFERENCE, WHICH WE COULDN'T DO BACK IN THE DAY, UNLESS WE HAD A POLAROID CAMERA!!! I REALLY ENJOY THESE VIDEOS, AND AM LOOKING FORWARD TO SEEING WHAT YOU TO THIS JEEP!!! I USED TO HAVE A 63 INTERNATIONAL TRAVEL ALL, WHICH I NOW WISH I HAD KEPT!! HAVE A GREAT DAY AND ENJOY THE REBUILD!!!
This reminds me of owning a boat. The best two days are the day you buy it and the day you sell it. You should check out Sarah n Tuned’s channel. She has a lot of great DIY restoration projects and is very meticulous.
Hey Brad. Not sure if you’ll see this but I wanted to offer my help if you ever need it when it comes to restoring that old Coleman gear you’ve got. I love fixing them up and getting them running like new. It’s one of my favorite hobbies aside from off-roading.
I had a 79 Jeep Cherokee 2 Door, like yours. Mine had the 258 Straight 6 Engine, with a manual 3 Speed Transmission. Great running Truck, but could never get really good strong brakes on it.
Go with the fuel injection that way you won't stall on something steep. Plus it will adjust too the high altitude places you like going.
Two great benefits!
Had to go back to review your previous restomod videos and although our projects are a little different you've given me some ideas. Looking forward to future editions. I'm wrenching on a 1976 Amgen, 5-ton M813 6X6.
Get the drum brake spring tool if you haven’t already. Makes the drums waaaaay easier and safer to work on!
Cool Jeep, one issue with running the exhaust out the rear is if you ever plan on driving with the back window down the air flow has a tendency to pull the exhaust fumes into the vehicle, depending, of course, on were you have the actual exhaust tip.....just a thought.....
I just bought a 1986 with a 360 and 727 torqueflite transmsission. I got 13 mpg out of it driving it from Idaho to Utah. I was pretty impressed. I have a lot of stuff to do to it. Funny enough its already on 33" tires.
as a limey i prefer this old 'Hulk' With the improvements to the suspension, better breathing etc it will be great. I would love one of these over the modern ones. Yes i know its limitations but it screams what i imagine the old yank off road camping trips should be.
My trick for the rear brakes is do one side at a time so you have a reference
Oh man I would love to see a overland trip in that.
I'm really looking forward to this series. I too have a 1974 resto mod, except it's a CJ5 with the 304(with some modifications). I still have plenty of work to do on it as well, like power steering and power brakes... Maybe one day I'll find a top and doors for it. I also had electrical gremlins running around playing tricks like you, but I gutted the old electrical rats nest, went with a new wiring harness and fuse box. Maybe something for you to consider.
Hey I’ve got a 75 CJ did tons of work on. Did the power steering and went with power disc brakes. Made a huge difference in driving behavior and pretty much replaced everything on it. But I’ve had her for over 40 years can’t sell.
@@gregchiropolos9885 This is great. How did you end up mounting the power steering pump?
The exhaust tip needs to be a side dump. These fsj aero will pull the exhaust through your back window with a normal back exhaust tip. I would move it to be straight out the side after the back wheel. The factory for all the years did that because they new it was a problem. I have a 88 Grand Wagoneer with 5.3 swap that the exhaust shop messed up and didn’t listen. I tried it and switch it back to a side exit.
Vick Hickey??? Side winder winch from the 70’s is what you need. The drum is sideways and fits between the side rails.
Some times lift companies go conservative on tire size. There is a company that sells a 4” for my truck and says it will work with 31” tires but my truck comes with 32” from the factory.
Take LOTS of pictures of the stuff as you take it apart (drum brakes hint, hint) so you know which spring went where, and which pad was the front pad vs back pad. might want to consider replacing the parking brake stuff while you're in there too and possibly axle seals.
This video gave me a lot of Trucks! / Stacey David vibes and I’m all for it! Looking forward to seeing this thing transform!
Stacey is an Icon, thank you!
Omg. I have an 1989 Bronco and went through every one of these problems. You have to LOVE (which I do love the Bronco) the vehicle to own it and deal with these issues that will be constant.
Re: gas vapors - my issue turned out it was a venting issue on the bronco
Re: rear window, I just removed it (I.e. it broke) and went soft top.
Re: exhaust issue for me was header leaking
Re: battery, I installed a remote cut off switch from the cab to kill the battery in park, I also installed a mounted battery tender so I can plug it in while not driven
Re: hood paint - I used rino liner :) that flat hood gets sun damage easy. I do love patina.
Re: weather stripping: super hard but worth it. It will address lots of rattles too in the side and rear doors.
Re: headliner: I just pulled the head liner and foam off all together.
Re: steering wheel: omg so painful. Wait till the blinker indicator goes out because the “catch” is made of plastic. It will not pass inspection and it is such a pain to replace.
Re: windshield wipers - I eventually had to replace the motor. Also, keep your windows rolled up, people stole my windshield wiper and light KNOBs!!! I went to eBay to buy new ones and found out why - they sell them at a premium back to me!
Re: sears, I went with new seats in the front! You should to :) I kept the rear but when they fold forward it hits the roll cage I installed.
Re: I wish I could replace my headlights but no one sells them. I love your headlight fix.
Re: winch - I agree I went with a new front bumper.
Re: fuel economy - I got 10 mpg from the factory (I have the original window sticker). It is fuel injected to
Re: alternator - I decided to put a digital gauge to see the voltage in the cab
Re: starters will always be fun. Buy the best, newly built if you can
I have owned the bronco since 1998. I cannot sell it. Good luck, I know your pain brother and look forward to watching you restore that old girl.
It's a labor of love for sure, but the pay off to get this old truck out on the trail will be worth. Thank you!
Re your lift, look at LUBR bronco fitments, lifted uncut bronco. You can do a smallbody lift, run classic skinny truck tires. You're patina is sweet actually, doesn't get much better.
Make sure to use dynomat under your carpets, firewall, door panels etc. Totally worth it
I've got 2 boxes!
Brad I suggest you get some flares from a 77-82 Cherokee Chief or flares from a J series pup.
My 47 2a had a ghost in the starter. It once tried to start at 1am in my friends garage, luckily in N otherwise it surely would have really caused some chaos. And again at my place, this time in R, luckily it got stuck on the curb across the street and not in the neighbors sliding glass door. I replaced it all but pretty sure it was the starter switch.
Great Video, I have a 75 Cherokee S . We have a lot of the same issues . This is how I fixed the gas Fumes, I popped of that back removable panel by the gas tank , and there are some gas tank vent tubes that get rotted and leak , I should have replaced them , but just duct taped them up, Never had a problem since. "LOL " With the Electric Window. My dash switch would only go down too, until it stopped working.
Mine goes up and down with the key only, and only with the motor running, it blows a fuse about every 3 months. Sorry to hear about the Ghost in the Machine. That huge bundle of wires in the back by the tail gate. I believe that has a lot of problems, Mine is way too big for just a few wires that are needed, the opening and closing of the tailgate stresses the wires on mine. I am going to rewire it and find the problem sooner than later. Fine I got a brand new up and down switch thought my problem was solved, it did nothing but pointed me in the right direction. Glad to find your Videos on TH-cam looking forward to see someone else going through this same Historical path of the long and winding road.
Please paint this and know patina is for hermits and mad max enthusiast. I would keep og dash with updated odd and ends, definitely change out all that Brady bunch green. Last keep door handles but use them as up and down switch for power windows.
Regarding the rear window check the switch before moving to the motor.
Inside the glove box is the switch for looking the center diff. The level for the low gear is under the drivers seat
Will do. No lever under the seat in this old girl.
@@TrailRecon Our Wagoneer was 77, maybe they changed it. Lever was on the floor directly in front of the driver seat
The push-pull cable for 4-low is original for his 74. Jeep changed to the flag shifter on the floor later in the 70s
The sky is the limit on the 401, you could go big and do a stroker kit but personally I'd really just concentrate on the top side. a good set of flowing heads and exhaust will do wonders. Get a good set of heads, have them ported and will make a big difference. I'd look at possibly a cam that's got some good torque specs. I wouldn't go crazy, just small mods. Fuel injection is cool, I personally don't run it on anything, nothing wrong with it...just like to be able to fix a problem quickly and not go down a rabbit hole.