2-Colors with 2-Files 3D Printing Technique in Cura
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 มิ.ย. 2024
- Chuck shows you How to Make Your 3D Prints Easier to Read with 2-Colors. He takes you step by step thru the design of a custom PTFE cutter that is split into two files and printed using Cura Slicer "Remove Empty First Layers" setting. He shows you how to set up your autolevel to use EEPROM instead of probing so the prints aren't affected. He also shares the files so you can recreate what he does on your autolevel 3D Printer.
STL Files:
Two-Color Top Section: bit.ly/3jOk8E7
Two-Color Bottom Section: bit.ly/3xBw3Kw
One Color Complete Print: bit.ly/3yJMyFx
CHEP Profiles:
www.chepclub.com/cura-profile...
***** Creality Ender 3 V2 ******
Amazon: amzn.to/3ioLVsC
Banggood: bit.ly/2MQ5VGM
Creality: bit.ly/30gh9OD
***** Creality Ender 3 Max *****
Creality: bit.ly/3oXr3wi
Banggood: bit.ly/3wkh8ow
Amazon: amzn.to/3p0oYzB
BLTouch AutoLevel Kit:
Creality Direct: bit.ly/3eLzCGE
Amazon: amzn.to/3aR0m7x
Ender 3 V2 Auto Bed Level Video:
• How to Install AutoLev...
**** Support the Channel *****************
Financial Support through Patreon:
/ elproducts
Direct Support through PayPal donation:
www.paypal.me/elproducts
Support the Channel here and Shop at MatterHackers.com and you automatically donate to the channel at no cost to you:
bit.ly/1Ugcijp
Buy thru this link to Slice Engineering for the Best Hot Ends and get 5% off your purchase:
bit.ly/3yuyuze
Firmware:
github.com/Jyers/Marlin/releases
Firmware Wiki:
github.com/Jyers/Marlin/wiki/...
0:00 Intro
0:30 PTFE Cutter Design
0:58 How It Works
1:16 Splitting Design in Tinkercad
1:45 Cura Setup Bottom Print
2:46 3D Print #1 Setup
3:12 Cura Setup Top Print
4:28 3D Print #2 Setup
4:58 Testing the Two-Color 3D Print
5:36 Bonus Feature for E-Steps
5:58 Conclusion
***** Creality Ender 3: ******
amzn.to/3fSIISy
From Banggood : bit.ly/2wfD5Ia
Creality Official Reseller Comgrow: bit.ly/2sEthbX
Bundle From MatterHackers: bit.ly/2ZvGLnE
***** Creality Ender 3 Pro: *****
amzn.to/2QUjRUL
From Banggood.com: bit.ly/2DBG0AI
Creality Official Reseller Comgrow: bit.ly/2SIMa86
Bundle From MatterHackers: bit.ly/2FuKFpu
CHEP Cube 3D Print: bit.ly/3gH4l9D
CHEP PAWN: bit.ly/3pHYE08
******* Silent Driver Boards ***************
Creality V4.2.7 32-bit Silent Stepper Board:
Amazon: amzn.to/34GhY31
Creality Official Store: bit.ly/320ZzMS
Banggood: bit.ly/3ebPSzP
SKR Mini E3 32-Bit Silent Driver Board V2.0 :
Amazon: amzn.to/2XDY9Wi
Banggood: www.banggood.com/custlink/KDm...
**** Ender 3 Glass Bed ****
Amazon: amzn.to/3tYea7m
Banggood: bit.ly/3lSDVTH
Creality: bit.ly/3rqR9bx
Creality Official Firmware:
www.creality.com/download
Nozzle Removal Tool:
Palm Ratchet: amzn.to/3u6ncm7
1/4'' Socket: amzn.to/2OjdHdg
Creality Ender 3 Parts/Upgrades
-------------------------------------------
X-Axis Tensioner
amzn.to/38BKbYP
Y-Axis Tensioner
amzn.to/2PhOdhi
Chuck's Favorite EZR Extruder:
bit.ly/2rlKCpp
Creality 8-bit Silent Stepper Board: amzn.to/2YPM0Nh
Cap Tubes & Couplings: amzn.to/2Vf8BCf
CR10/Creality Ender 3 Nozzles: amzn.to/2m39K1y
CR10/Ender3 Silicon Heater Block Cover: amzn.to/3sfDG7s
Solder Sleeve Kit: amzn.to/2Pqqngm
Creality Ender 3 Fan Set (24v): amzn.to/38u9aOl
CR-10 Fan Set (12v): amzn.to/2PrcCxK
T-Nuts Kit: amzn.to/2LsQZg8
Screw Kit: amzn.to/2Va8uGK
Temperature Meter Used in Videos: amzn.to/2JpUJOC
Screwdriver set used in Videos: amzn.to/2PbWocM
Creality Ender 3 Upgrade Package (Extruder, Silent Board & Capricorn Tubing): bit.ly/2MNvmcs
**** Support the Channel *****************
EBAY USA: ebay.to/1wtxfiU
EBAY UK: ebay.eu/2qdC5iy
EBAY Canada: bit.ly/2qdGRwh
Support the Channel here and Shop at MatterHackers.com and you automatically donate to the channel at no cost to you:
bit.ly/1Ugcijp
Buy thru this link to Slice Engineering for the Best Hot Ends:
bit.ly/3yuyuze
Note:
As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.
****************************************************
Filament Friday Sticker:
Send Self Addressed Stamped Envelope to:
Electronic Products
PO Box 251
Milford, MI 48381
****************************************************
Chuck's Arduino Book:
amzn.to/3tA31JP
Intro animation by Pablo Licari based on Filament Friday Logo by Brian Carter.
*************** Free Filament Friday Sticker **************
Send Self Addressed Stamped Envelope to:
Electronic Products
P.O.Box 251
Milford, MI 48381
********************************************************** - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
I am so glad I am one your Patreons… I have enjoyed every video and learned a lot.. thanks for all of your content including your website
Thank You for the support. I couldn’t keep going without Patreon. It’s got me thru many low points.
@@FilamentFriday, I'm sure that there are THOUSANDS of little CHEP cubes out there from people like us who watch your channel to learn more about this hobby on every episode of FILAMENT FRIDAY.
Just to give you an example,.me and 3 more friends from Uruguay / South America bought Ender 3 printers because of you.
Kudos and thanks again
Thank G G
There is an easier way to do it.
Just slice two separate models normally making sure they're centered and turn off "Skirt" on your top layer model (if using skirt). When the BL Touch homes the Z, the top of the print (if centered) will register as the bed (Z0). Then just print the next model as normal. Works like a charm every time.
The only issue you could bump into is printing on top of tall prints because of the leveling fade height but it's usually forgiving. And this won't work with CHEP's tutorial using "Remove Empty First Layers". You will just need the exact model you want print on top.
Excellent tutorial as usual CHEP.
I'm a busy woodworker and metal fabricator, and I do lots of other things and have many hobbies. So I have to spend my time as efficiently as possible. For a product like this I would just use a paint marker to color the tops of the numbers. It works perfectly and it's fast. I apply many of the techniques I use in my other trades to 3D printing and try to use as little plastic and electricity as possible. Rarely do I print an entire piece out of plastic. Just parts of it. Learning to be efficient and productive is just as important as learning new tricks on 3D printers.
However, I do enjoy learning new things in this field, and now if I ever need to do something like this, I'll know how.
Thanks Chep.
The video is great, but it's much more complicated compared to just using the M600 firmware in Marlin.
Never noticed it before now, since I rarely look at "extended" descriptions, but on this one, the "useful" part of the description required doing the "show more" thing"and now I've noticed your address - which goes a goodly walk toward explaining why I've liked your narration since I first encountered your channel - You and I speak the same lingo - Michigander-ese. Your accent is a little more "south Michigan" than mine, but it's obvious to someone who grew up there. I ain't QUITE a Yooper (Technically, I'm a "Troll", just like you and everybody else who lives "below the bridge") since I grew up at the "tip-o-the-mitt", about 14 miles from the south approach to the Mighty Mac, but after all the years I spent working Mackinac Island, I consider myself a "Trooper" - Half Troll, half Yooper - and even all these years after I left the state, I've still got a good bit more "Yooper" in my talk than you folks from "down below" usually do. You're still obviously a Michigan boy, and even though I couldn't quite pin it down at first, it shows every time you speak. Sounds like home to me. :)
Thank you. Best example of two color print on a "regular" printer. Showing the detailed setting made all the difference.
Dear Chep. I want to thank you from bottom of my heart. I am not exactly patient person, so when i bought my first 3D printer yesterday, your ender profiles and autolevel files greatly helped me to start printing right after assembling my ender. Thank you again and i hope you will be always here for us, noobs.
Glad to help.
I'm sure the guys at cura are taking notes from time to time cuz your skills in cura are superhuman lol
Wow, so creative - I LOVE it! And even just the basic cutter is very useful. Great video as always. Thanks Chuck.
You really have such a talent to make things like this look so simple. Amazing work, thanks Chuck.
Well done Sir, I absolutely appreciate all you do for the community and you always inspire me to learn more, print more and get more proficient at our hobby! 😁🤙🏼
That is pretty cool, learnt so many tips from your channel, thanks.
Great video, thanks. I especially love the idea of using ruler on the cutter for e-step calibration. Very creative and useful.
Thank you! I always learn something from your videos.
That is quite the process, will have to give it a shot. Thanks for the great videos!
great design 👍
thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍😀
Exceptional as always, thank you
Chuck, thanks a lot for the M420 reminder. I forgot to read the eeprom settings before start print in Octoprint and my first layers were still imperfect. Thanks man!
Thanks a lot, Chuck! 😃
That's going to be really useful!!!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thank you for another wonderful video. I have really grown to like the 'Luke Hatfield' style Capricorn-lined hot ends. Unless you need to print hotter than 260C, I believe they are superior to all-metal hot ends. The Capricorn liner has less friction than metal, and the liner also acts like an insulator that discourages heat creep. This is particularly important for me, as I have been doing some printing with Colorfabb lightweight PLA and lightweight ASA. These filaments expand when they are heated, and any heat-creep would cause them to expand before reaching the nozzle. Also, if it does get damaged, the Capricorn liner can easily be replaced. If the metal surface of an all-metal hot end is damaged, then the hot end needs to be replaced. Mr. Hatfield deserves an award for his design, as it has saved the 3D printing community from a lot of frustrating hot-end clogs.
Educative as always. Great stuffs
Very useful.Thanks Chuck
Thank you! I tried that with my Anycubic Vyper and it worked!
You are very smart. This is complicated, but I will give it a try.
Thank you I found this interesting and will try it on my Sovol3D. Cheers mate!
Nice vid Chep
great ... I see a use for this. Thanks
…and why didn’t I think of this??? Thanks a lot for the idea and the clear explanations
Thank you Sir
Great video
Thanks
Nice Video, what I do not understand why you are doing it so complicated. In earlier videos you use the Pause command on a special layer height in Cura and have the same effect. Without two profiles and so many adjustments in Cura 😁
You're the best.
Awesome
It is nice as an exercise to understand the settings... BUT, the M600 is SO MUCH easier! :) Thanks anyways, Chuck, I love your videos!
Thanks Chuck. Great to see another way to skin that multi-coloured cat.
Holy crap, i have been watching you for years and I just realized you live in Milford MI. I grew up there. I used to work at Klancy's (when they were still open years ago)
I’ve eaten there many times. It’s called Czapski's Kitchen Cafe now.
pretty useful and easy tutorial 👌😌
estaria genial 120mm Gracias por el video
Awesome instructions love your channel. Noob question though I just got a max neo (my 1st printer) I'm confused about where the auto level is stored is it on the sd card or the board ? I'm using g29 and it levels every print should I be using 420 instead? Sry that was 2 questions 😅
Neat!
Yet another outstanding video!
Do you have or plan on doing a how-to on the new CR-TOUCH auto leveler? Cannot find good comprehensive info on it...
Yes. Working on it.
Great video. But how can you make the printer purge filament right before it starts printing the second part so you don't get a blob? I have tried the pause at height method and have issued extrude commands prior to restarting but I don't really care for that. I would prefer the printer do a tiny print or a skirt to purge so that the actual print start immediately.
I would like to do it as 2 separate parts like this because I have printed parts that have raised letters on top of a different color and Cura does some weird stuff with the last layer of my main part making it not uniform (ie, doesn't print smooth on top and breaks up the smooth top layer lines by skipping the lettering outline and leaving visible differences on the top layer).
So a custom skirt around the main print would be preferred...even though my top part outline may not be the same as the bottom. A lot of info, and I can provide more to illustrate if needed.
Like the cool 2 color things or more advanced setting in Cura. Keep it up Chep!
Using this technique for 2 colours is amazing.. gets rid of the fuss of doing everything in one file; like you have to pause at a certain height, switch filaments, extrude manually, resuming a print etc.
Yep. I think it’s easier.
@@FilamentFriday oh and a huge benefit is that this can be done through octoprint, instead of printing from SD
Great tips as always, @CHEP.
Question - Not sure you mention which version of Cura you are using - at the time I write this I am using 4.10.0. Even with the two settings (Ensure models are kept apart and Auto drop models to the build plate) are unchecked, I cannot import two models as the build volume shrinks due to "build volume height reduced due to the value of the "Print Sequence". Which was "one at a time". I changed it to "all at once" and managed to get the second model imported.
I’m using 4.10
I have the settings "Empty First Layers", "Models Kept Apart", "Automatically drop models to the build plate" Unchecked. The prepare view shows my top object howering 2mm above plate in the correct place but when I slice and go to preview no g-code is shown.
I am using a CR-6SE
hey chep how do i calibrate a new extruder motor i put a direct drive on my cr-10 but if i leave it at 100 percent flow its to slow am i doing it right by just adjusting the flow
Nice but maybe redesign the cutter with a movable stop that you can set and then not have to eyeball the measurements.
Sadly, my Sovol - SV02 profile doesn't have an auto level profile with the M420 command showing :-(
Hi Chuck! Do you think it's possible to use per model settings for partial ironing of the model? P.S. - Admire your videos!
Sure. You can do that.
CHEP, quick question as I may try this today or in the next few days.
Do you think it might be a good idea, for some printers, to have a higher 1st layer temperature for the "TOP" part so that it will adhere to the lower layer better? I figure, the lower part will be cold, so perhaps extra heat might be a good idea?
You can try it. I haven’t seen the need.
Chuck, Thank you for this handy tool. But, I have a question....when I printed this item, I noticed that the "CHEP" logo was on the bottom of the print. How did you do this ?? I have a logo that I want to emboss on my prints, and I am having a tough time trying to do this. Any suggestions would be helpful !!!
I used Tinkercad to design it.
I enjoy your videos and I know you have done the color change in cura before. I'm just trying to figure out why this over just a simple color change. Is there a benefit?
Just another option. You choose which one works for you.
This option allows 2 colors on the same layer. Change at height finishes a layer THEN lets you change it.
Hey Chep, Why not add an M600 to perform a color change at a specified layer height instead? Just to show a different way to get this result? Cheers
Not all Creality machines recognize that (unless they update firmware) but I already did a similar video on that using pause at height plug-in.
@@FilamentFriday Okay, thanks for the info!
So thats a two colour print. you can do that slicing on prusaslicer inserting a colour change?
Prusaslicer does have color change built in
Earned my Like for taking the time to put the print on the bed and film it trying to probe 2:14, visual aid is so satisfying.
Also, I know this a tutorial and everything, but in this specific example, wouldn't it be easier to mark the letters with a sharpie? Or better yet, drops some very watery acrylic paint and wipe the surface so it stays only in the crevices?
Yes, but look beyond the specific print and to the idea that you need a 2 color print. Not every print is as simple as this PTFE cutter but made for a great simple example to show the technique.
@@FilamentFriday Of course, your mini tutorials are like my memory backup, I might not remember right away how to do something, but I'm sure they are here in your channel for when I need them, I have many videos bookmarked in a private playlist for later reference. Great work as always. 👍
Hey CHEP, I've just noticed you didn't use some sort of pause print, to change the filament and then resume it. Is it because it almost always fails? I am asking because I am trying to use a pre-printed support in PLA, to use it in a TPU print. I pause the print, very fast position the support, and then resume it, but it fails everytime. It cant get layer adesion, even in the TPU/TPU parts of the model. Do you know if it's a common problem, and what would you reccomend for this kind of trick I am trying to do? Thanks, and nice work on your channel.
You will almost always get layer separation or adhesion problems trying to print two different types of plastic together. If you stick with the same type of plastic and just change color it will work fine.
Good idea but why dont you use M600 to easily make your color swap?
This option allows 2 colors on the same layer. Change at height finishes a layer THEN lets you change it.
If you wanted a 120mm measuring stick, why not design a 20mm extension that plugs right in the middle, where the Bowden tube goes? Include an end stop to give you the perfect spacing. Cool technique BTW.
@Chep: an alternative technique is fine but, why didn't you make a pause at layer / hight and change the filament? (palette pro is working similar!!) your part isn't so complicated that there are different colors in the same layer ... it's quicker, no glue, no extra work, no extra slicing, no playing around with profiles... a comparison of this two workflows seems to be nessecary.
I’ve covered that in a previous popular video.
th-cam.com/video/1nBnVtOEAiY/w-d-xo.html
I prefer the two file method.
@@FilamentFriday - previous versions of cura had multiple versions of "pause at" macros. that was annoyng! the acutal version seems to be tidy of this. ... and layer 1 is layer 1 and not layer 0 anymore!
this two points are against this technique of 2019. Therefore I can't see the advantage of the new method. ... If you like: make a video of the advantage in direct comparison to the old one... ;)
have a nice weekend
With no skirt on the second part, you still need some sort of priming tho? Especially after changing the filament, no?
U can’t print below that height because nozzle might crash into the previous print , you can manually prime it by hand it works and is faster sometimes .
@@nilsirrah7672 You can, but you'd have to edit the GCode by hand... 😁
What are your probe offset values for your v2 with the BLtouch?
I don’t remember but it’s all explained here: th-cam.com/video/TroPjdkSEOY/w-d-xo.html
Hello Sir Chep I own a Ender 3 Max and wish to install a touch screen
Wich one should a get ?
Edge of tech dont know
Creality has one Im testing so stay tuned.
@@FilamentFriday thank your so good
Can you make a video on editing stl files?
I’ve made many over the years. Check my Tinkercad playlist th-cam.com/play/PLRFPlUhDTTllAprh8GbHJw0NjHKWT7Yzs.html
Thank you!
Can this be printed on a regular Ender3 or Pro with the 4.2.7 and BLTouch upgrades? Thanks
Sure
I guess that was the point of moving the print away from the center of the build plate, so that the BLTouch could operate on the second print.
Love your videos as always! And chep! Have you heard of a new printer called the fokoos Odin 5? (almost an Ender 3 with dual z, direct drive and FOLDABLE) I'm helping promote it and would love if you'd be interested reviewing it (you'd be sent the printer for an honest review and get to keep the printer 👍 just let me know!) Also jyers is adding a keyboard don't tell anyone lol
what are you using to side-mount the spool?
This: th-cam.com/video/eVP7dVXIhOU/w-d-xo.html
I seem unable to grasp the advantage of that complicated process. Why not slice the thing, manually put in a PAUSE command in GCODE where you can change the filament and then go on. No hassle at all and super easy...
Interesting video, however what's the benefit of doing that instead of a change color at z height?
Just another option.
@@FilamentFriday Do you see anything about your option that would cause anyone to prefer it? It seems like a ton more work for the same result. IF the second color started on the same layer as the last layer of the first, then I could see some benefit.
@@candorman9444 This option allows 2 colors on the same layer. Change at height finishes a layer THEN lets you change it.
@@Chad.The.Flornadian Without an interlaced model or z hop, no it doesn't. There are much better ways of accomplishing this and I do multi color prints with no mmu every day.
Could I just pause the print and then change the color?
Yeah, that's more or less what I've been doing. There's a Cura feature for doing that, too.
Have you ever done a duel z rod?
On Ender? No, the board isn’t equipped to do it properly and I don’t see the benefit.
and what if your ender 3 that prints amazingly does not have auto level?
You dont need auto level, you can just ignore that part as it only affects the 1st layer
🔥💕😍👍
Why not just "pause at height" in Cura?
As stated in the video. I’ve already shown that.
Great vid, however thats a silly amount of work. Just pause print and swap colors at desired layer height
That's true, however thoese numbers would sit on top of the print and would not be flush with the print. So not the same.
@@pooheadlou actually it would be.
The base and numbers would be one colour, anything above would be a different colour.
Perhaps try it before commenting and you actually might learn something
@@andrewdowney760 yep the base and numbers would be the same colour. That's my point. Also you don't have to be rude about it.
@@pooheadlou you get the same result just a lot less work just stopping the print and swapping colors.
I'm guessing you got a printer this year.
You have alot to learn
Yeah, but doesn't shrinkage make the scale inaccurate?
You saw my results. Only off by 0.2mm and length was exactly 100mm.
How do you auto level with V2?
You need a bltouch
flipster2321 - th-cam.com/video/TroPjdkSEOY/w-d-xo.html
lol. just single color print, get a brush, tip it in acrylic color, wipe most of it of and do a quick drybrush. readability achieved.
A simple pause at layer height and a quick filament swap does the same.
As I mentioned in the video. I’ve covered that before. th-cam.com/video/1nBnVtOEAiY/w-d-xo.html
This option allows 2 colors on the same layer. Change at height finishes a layer THEN lets you change it. It's all about options and preferences.
why not just use color change in cura?
Where is that?
Cura can change the color?
I had the exact same thought: why not just an M600 at 2.4mm? Super easy with PrusaSlicer, but also with the standard plugin in Cura to add the command at height and still much easier than this two-part printing and no risk of your bed cooling...
As I stated in the video, I’ve showed that process. This was another option since some Creality machines won’t recognize M600 (unless the upgrade firmware). th-cam.com/video/1nBnVtOEAiY/w-d-xo.html
@@FilamentFriday Yes, but this is on an Ender with BLTouch, so you already did upgrade the firmware, right? Then using a firmware from Creality instead of a decent one with useful features like M600 built-in seems like a mistake which would better be corrected than using this approach. And sure ... this approach can also just work without BLTouch on the old 8-bit Creality boards which were limited in flash-size and hence had a reason to not fit in all Marlin features, but I could not find any figures on how much you can save by disabling M600, so I would expect it to be minimal.
Now, don't get me wrong, I do applaud your videos and printing in multiple phases can be useful in some cases. Ex. this approach can even be used to apply accents in another color while having overlapping layers with the old object (just not close enough to the nozzle) - i.e. the already printed part can have parts sticking up slightly higher than where you start the second color as long as you ensure the nozzle (and everything else on your printer) keeps away from those when printing that second part. That's more tricky and definitely would require a thorough review of the g-code including movement paths in the slicer and potentially modifying it manually a bit to get the nozzle in the right place between the second homing and where it needs to start printing (possibly in the middle of an already printed part sticking up a bit) without hitting the parts sticking out. It would be great if someone would create a Cura plugin for that, so that you can have simple dual-material prints with a single filament change and have the plug-in correct the paths as needed or flag that what you are asking is impossible without hitting the first part - but it would require quite extensive info on the exact geometry of your hotend and carriage as the rough box used by slicers for sequential object printing won't cut it here.
So yeah, the approach has its uses, but for a simple 2-color filament change at a specific height, just getting your printer to obey M600 seems way easier, robust and saving you tons of headaches in the long run.
@@MisterkeTube I agree. For a simple color change it feels like a lot or work, and this could be applied to some other printing techniques that I am not aware of. In theory I feel like this could be amazing for different size nozzle printing to give both quality and speed. Print the base with 0.6mm nozzle then switch to a 0.2mm for better quality text.
To make up the extra 20mm, just toss a CHEP CUBE in between...
Way simpler way to do the same thing:
Just do one print, then use an acrylic paint marker and run it over the top of the markings - it will just pick up the raised parts
True but not needing paint is nicer, its also a lot easier in other slicers
Why is auto level such a big deal to many people? I just tighten my bed all the way down then with a dial indicator level the bed by only loosening the bed screws a tad where needed, it never moves and bed is near solid and that's it. I don't even think about leveling or setting z height. Heck nozzle changes and resetting z height are not needed, as long as i measure the nozzle length which seems to be very accurate.