Some people go to the mountains to relax, and some to the seashore to meditate. I just have to listen/watch James "do his engine thing". I love the sounds of a functioning engine - and the healing of his voice.
I am still laughing like an idiot... My little son, who is a bit of a smart alec, comes into my office where I'm watching your video and it's at the first test run part and out of no where he ask's me, "Dad, is that one of those new Blu Tooth Generators?" while pointing at the absence of the generator. He never ceases to amaze me. Just had to share it with someone.
Because of you and your videos I decided to buy “sick” generators and get them operational. I don’t sell them but give them to needy people. Living in se Louisiana we need them especially after a hurricane. I had one ready to go after . After A LOT of problems it was like new before I could give it away someone stole it. Oh well on to the next one….thanks James
37:08 That kind of wear doesn't just "happen" I would definitely take the head off and examine the valve and the valve spring. Something caused that excessive wear. Since no other part in this engine has excessive wear, it wasn't contamination or loss of oil. Other than contamination of the cam or the lifter from the factory, there is no explanation, at least so far in the video. But SOMETHING caused it. It didn't just happen.
Rust contamination I think was the main issue. Also the spring tension was high for small engine increasing the west. The GP series are also known for cam failures. Probably sub standard manufacturing.
@@jcondon1 How did the rust selectively wear out the exhaust lobe and not wear any other part including the intake lobe? You said the spring tension felt excessive. That would do it. I think you should put a new exhaust spring in it. You would think a worn spring would have less tension. So maybe it was defective from the beggining. I think the spring tension measurement gauge is fairly expensive. They may not even publish a spec for it anyway.
@@jusb1066I think you're spot on. I work on these machines as a side business and I'm finding more and more issues related to poor metallurgy and coatings.
James! You just invented the very first generator optimized for producing imaginary power! Owners of capacitors and inductors everywhere will be breaking down your door soon to buy this! Otherwise, a suggestion: for new engines and rebuilds, install a magnetic dipstick for the first few hours of running. You will be amazed at how much material it will capture. No more ferrous metal finding its way into bearing surfaces. I have magnets in all of my 4-cycle OPE. There's always something on it every time I check. And that's in every engine, so it's not presaging some grenading event. A new Ariens LCT 420CC snowblower engine that I broke in a few days ago, there was a substantial amount of material after just two hours of run-in at 2400 rpm. I don't believe that there's anything wrong with the engine, it's just normal wear-in. in any event, it might be interesting to try it on your next major rebuild just to see.
James you are with out a doubt the best Generator Surgeon I have ever seen here on TH-cam. I have learned so much from watching your videos and now I am applying those skills to my own repairs. Thank You for bringing us in to watch these videos.
Man I had my keyboard fired up and warm and was getting ready to tell you how you should take this engine apart. Working on industrial equipment for 75% of my life I can attest that sometimes the torque values aren't always available. So engineering support always used engineering standards which most of the time was within tolerance. I can't believe a Honda clone or any other engine with journals the same size as the Generac assembly values couldn't be used. Great job James, just when I thought you were backing away scared you redeemed yourself as the engine whisperer !
Jim I'm glad you stressed a proper break in for the flat tappet cam and lifters and added Zinc to the oil for the break in period ,car engines and all small engines I run zinc in them especially my 1960s chevy motors
👌👌👍👍 Thanks for the video. I would have replaced the exhaust valve spring too. If the old spring is too tight, it will wear down the new camshaft lobe.
How tame, a wheel puller! When I had to get a flywheel off, it was a couple of beefy flat blade screw drivers prying up from under the flywheel while you rapped on the crankshaft with a hammer !
A lot of people dont realize that periodic running of a generator is important (perhaps almost as important as oil changes). After the engine runs at temperature and is then stopped, either the intake or exhaust valves can be open and moisture can and will condense on cooling surfaces, leading to rusting. Rust is abrasive. I wonder if a good practice would be to turn over the engine untill it is on its' compression stroke when storing it (just like running the carb dry).
Hello James: Another enjoyable and informative video. I will date myself here. Before the internet Era, when torque specks on a critical item like Con Rods or head bolts was not known.The common practice was to use a torque wrench and tighten the bolt or nut until it just moved. Take the reading. To allow for set resistance on reassembly use a torque set point slightly lower than the reading obtained. My personal adjustment was 5% reduced. I have never had a problem with nuts or bolts coming lose or breaking using this method.
You can look up maximum torque values in charts online. It depends on the bolt grade, thread size and pitch, material it's screwing into, and lubricant. If the spec is for dry threads but you have them lubricated (oil, grease, antiseize, whatever) you have to lower the torque by 30% or you will overtorque
@@brainndamage You are correct. There is an unending combination of factors that go into determining proper torque specifications. The use of establishing a torque value and then turning an additional # of degrees is being used frequently now. Following the manufactures instructions is by far the best method. If you were out in the field doing an emergency field repair and the information was not available or known what would you do?
@@swallowinn4410 turning aspecified number of degrees is done for TTY (torque to yield) and will permanently stretch the bolt, you usually don't want that. It is very common on critical bolts however, cylinder head or exhaust manifold bolts. You can usually get a good torque by feel if you're experienced enough.
@@brainndamage You are not telling me anything I did not know or understand. You did not answer the Question. What would you do if you had to complete a repair with an unknown torque value? As I mentioned I am not young, my mechanical and engine building experience was primarily in the Aircraft industry. Now retired I still routinely repair and build engines.This being said I am not too old to learn and adapt to a better method. So I repeat the question what would you do if you needed to complete a repair and did not know the torque value for a critical component?
Looks like a prime candidate for some MotorKote...will definitely help with moisture and since it's a hyperlubricant, it might help prevent wiping out the camshaft again
It amazes me that you are so meticulous. Not only replace the cam shaft, but why did it fail? Rust abrasion. I never would have thought of that. Awesome content, James. Keep up the good work.
I’ve had to newer engines that had bad cam and I was shocked Never see it before on a Honda engine in 25 years They failed at factory with the cam manufacturer
Thanks! Your videos have saved me a bundle, by DIY repairing my equipment instead taking it for service or replacing. Your videos are great, detailed tutorials, so well done and articulated and fun to watch!
I was actually thinking it’s not like you to not do the job right and use the torque spec as a reason. I soon learned i was wrong. Great video once again.
James...I just saw this video for the first time...In "comments" there was a question as to why the head was not pulled & inspected.as to the possible cause of the cam failure. Here is a thought from an old street rodder/classic car guy. Oil formulations have changes significantly since the introduction of catalytic converters in the mid-70's. ZDDP (a zinc based additive ) which was in oil & needed to stop flat tappet cam wear/failure in engines was removed because it clogged the converters. Oil manufacturers removed the ZDDP and vehicles started using "roller lifter cams & followers" to compensate. Under sustained high load/stress (like a generator) most of today's oils( no matter how good) are not designed to cope with flat tappet/cam wear. That's the short story...more info is available on the web. I use a ZDDP additive in the oil of all my older non-catalytic cars to prevent cam & lifter wear...I also use it in all my 4 cycle small engines. Some specialty oil can be purchased with ZDDP, but I just keep a bottle of it around and add it to my oil at changes. It is available at Amazon and some auto parts stores.
Well I got to say another find video that's just about mesmerizing I don't know how you do it with the timing of your videos but it's almost like 100% right on with all the assembly work and testing
It is the Old Man at Eliminator Performance in Canada. Just wanted to say one of the best assemble videos i have seen, well done James. Especially liked the dual oil change comparison which should make some people think they should change their oil once they have used a brand new purchase.
Indasa Rhynowet silicon carbide abrasive paper is the best I've used. Not sure of it full range, but I have it up to 2500 grit. It cuts great; far better than any 3M paper I've used. I've used it wet with oil and water and dry. I can get mirror finish on metal I polish with it.
Very nice video James. We have an incomplete generator at the shop we’d like to get rid of. It’s all complete except for the stator and electrical components. 9HP vanguard engine which did start last spring. Still has the rotor. We aren’t doing anything with it and it’s just taking up space. No name on the machine but I’ve been told it’s a Dayton 5000 watt unit.
You made the right call to remove the crankshaft. It is always a good idea when replacing or rebuilding the top end, to always at least inspect the bottom end. This is because top end repairs put more strain on already worn bottom end, and can lead to premature failure of bottom end.
I had a similar situation with a briggs intek. It didn't have an oil filter, was about 20 years old and my buddy bought it used. He had starting issues/running issues and once we opened up the engine we saw the cam had excessive wear. A new OEM camshaft later and it runs better than it ever did for him. I think it was a combination of no oil filter, ran hard, ran low on oil, excessive intervals between oil changes, and oil that didn't have enough zinc for flat tappets. Out of the hundreds of pieces of equipment I've had/worked on it was the only one I've come across with this issue. No idea how many hours were on the motor as the machine didn't have an hour meter but it was a surprised failure to me.
I would take open the valve cover that other failed engine that was spoken of and see what type of spring it had. By type I mean super stiff or seemingly normal. Assuming the factory put a stiffer exhaust spring in it, but why?
The readily available Rato 420 specs would work nicely! If I recall, these engines have 2 oil fill and drain ports. The oil drains have galleys that are drilled into the crankcase to facilitate oil draining. These galleys collect all kinds of debris and are often overlooked when cleaning the engine block for repairs.
James inoculated the engine with zinc, first time I have seen that on the channel. Good idea. I have used the STP zinc additive on my race engines with good results.
Normally not needed on a small engines since the valve springs are pretty weak. On this engine, the springs were stronger then most. Puts a lot of stress on the cam. That and the rust I think were to blame for the failure.
@@jcondon1 Oh, for sure the rust was a contributing factor. Something that would be interesting would be the use of synthetics in small engines. Either blended or full synthetics. In car engines, it is very easy to tell when an engine has used synthetics versus conventional. Since many of these engines sit unused for a long period of time, would the use of synthetics help keep the rust and corrosion at bay a little better?
@@jcondon1 Hey, tried reaching you back about a month ago wanting to know where I can get that "IV fuel bottle" thing you use when you are not using the OEM fuel tank for testing. Can you put a link to it please?
Love watching your videos! Have you ever thought of setting up a “carb stand” where you can connect your aux fuel container higher than the carb before you install it on the engine? This can be done while you work on other things. Some leaks take time to show themselves. It would save so much time in the long run. I’ve never seen this done in any of the many repair channels that I watch. My two cents.
As long as the frame is in great shape you can use it for another generator. engine And power unit as long as the AVR is not messed up and the engine is still working
Small engines have never been a part of my skill set but they will be starting in the next few days. I've now watched about 12 hours of your engine rebuilding videos and I feel I have absorbed enough information to begin a fast learning curve. It's almost a guarantee I won't get it exactly right the first couple of attempts but I've always learned a lot from my mistakes. Besides, it isn't a race or a competition...at this point, and I've really got nothing to lose because learning is winning. Your videos are excellent and you are certainly a Master and I admire your knowledge and skill.
Changed my oil recently on my lawn tractor. It looked good on the dip stick before I changed it but came out weird like it had moisture in it. So after I changed it I cut the grass once and changed it again and I could see were it cleaned it out. I’ll be changing it more often at 25 hours or so. I think I went about 100 hour on the last one. Anyhow changing the oil out after a short while does clean things up quite a bit if needed. Good video.
Me too and my 89 S-10. I get 80+ p.s.i. oil pressure idling with a 195 degree thermostat at full operating temperature. It's 15/40 and I also use Valvoline 15/40 diesel formula but I think the Delo is better. Valvoline has been my #2 for years.@@philliphall5198
when I got my Generator with a 420cc engine I did a 30 min run with no load and the oil looked like that.. its on its 3rd oil change with about 8 Hr on it and the oil looks clean coming out.
I've always avoided any sort of material that will scratch metal I do not want to remove ! That's what I was taught, and I prefer to stick to it. I have seen some damage done by using the wrong grade of scotchbrite, guys don't seem to realise that in making surfaces "nice and shiny" they are removing material to do it ! Me, i'd rather see smooth heat discoloured metal than"shiny".
I'm think a fair amount of water got into that engine block. Maybe the counterbalance not being timed to the cam and crank had something to do with the excessive wear on the exhaust lobe?
I don’t think so because I had two that did the same thing, but were just like this and I also replaced the valve springs Never seen it before on a GX engine before
I noticed on the crank there was an area thst didnt clean up during machining on one of the counterweights. I wonder if there might have been some casting sand left in the crank.
James, that was a great video. I have the exact generator. Bought new in 2016, and has been a great machine. Keeping that oil changed regularly is a must. Thanks to you, I'll know what to expect if I ever have to tear it down! Thanks for all you do! Your videos are a pleasure to watch and and the content is always top notch!
This is what happens when people use oil with not enough zinc in it. Always run good high zinc oil in 4 stroke equipment.. I run Shell Rotella T-5 or t-6 usually 15w40. I run it in classic cars with extra zddp additive and my 4stroke atvs and equipment! And yes that's in cold temps of Wisconsin!
Have you ever considered using or indeed making your own magnetic oil drain plugs? I have epoxied small pill sized neo magnets onto the end of standard drain plugs in the past instead of buying new magnetic plugs.
@@jusb1066 yes I guess it may be but it’s the iron/steel particles that do the most damage when suspended in the oil and a magnetic sump plug will help hold these back don’t you think?
Another great master class, James. I'm wondering if this engine had water intrusion, or perhaps the moisture causing the 3rd body wear from rust was due to condensation from out door storage. Kind Regards. Craig
Hey james I just acquired a 8kw generator from a campground it has been ran over so I’m planning on getting a replacement frame for it as a replacement carburetor and air box for it
if you can find engine oil that ends with a suffix T, the T stands for tack. the oil has in it an aditive that makes the oil tacky, and will stick to the surfaces it contacts. ideal for assembly, and use in applications that stay idle for long periods. the heat of the engine running would have loosened particles most likely, a hot kerosene bath would have been the best clean, or a large ultrasonic tank
42:30, you could do what everybody else does, give the flywheel nut, four or five Aubba-Duggers with an electric impact. Most shops never bring out a torque wrench for a flywheel, since the taper is what holds the flywheel in place, not the nut. Also, by using the rope it puts unnecessary force on the piston and rod.
I have a couple of older vehicles with flat tappet cams, and I have always used oil with ZDDP to protect the camshafts. Although I have always known that my small engines use flat tappets (are there small engines with roller lifters?) it never crossed my mind about using zinc. I should think this might even be more important with small engines that are only started rarely, like backup generators. Am I worrying about nothing? After all, I've never heard of wiping cams in small engines being an issue.
It’s a problem only with the Generac GP series. The springs in that model exert a lot of pressure in the cam. Would not worry too much about it on most small engines since there valve springs are usually a lot weaker then automotive springs. Some small engines use a belt or chain driven cam. Some kohlers use hydraulic lifters. Must use push rods and flat tappet cams.
@@jcondon1 Thanks Jim. You have to wonder why Generac would use such a strong spring on the exhaust valve (and not the intake,too). One of my old Corvettes has a 434 cu. in. engine cranking out 650 hp at 6,900 rpm. Although it’s a roller engine I still use oil with ZDDP. Because of the cam profile, and the high rpm the valve springs are extremely stout. Neither of these is the case with a small engine operating at 3600 rpm. Do you or any of your other viewers have a possible reason as to why Generac chose such a stronger spring in this application?
I was surprised you put that much money into this, but you seem to have a home for it, whatever. On the lube while assembling, I'm a little more liberal, but I save assembly lube (and moly) for the flat surfaces (rod journal, etc). I just douse the gears and ball bearings in oil. I use too much lubricant assembling because I cut my teeth in a German shop and the boss caught me putting in a set of points without lubing the rubbing block and he imparted this German phrase to me (I speak German anyway): "Wer schmiert gut, fahrt gut.: (Who greases good, drives good). It has stuck me with since then, and that was ~50 years ago.
The two I fixed didn’t even have a hundred hours on them Factory defects I think there are a lot more out there with this problem just waiting to happen
think a lot of viewers are naive about how much money he makes from views. He needs a video, weekly. The expense of parts isn’t a factor at this point. There is a bigger machine that needs oiling now.
@@billhenry7833 I'm aware he makes money on his videos. All TH-cam creators with a following do. It's work to shoot, edit and post videos and he's entitled to whatever money he makes on them. I was surprised a cam cost $135+ for a clone engine, but he has plans for that engine and that's ok with me. Some creators flood their channel with worthless puffery after initial success. James doesn't, he sticks to his niche and that's why he's successful IMHO.
While there are some variables, most 1/4 inch bolts are 89 inch pounds, again, variables play a part such as what the bolt in threaded into to, but have yet to break one.
James, thank you for all your do in your videos. I know this is how you make your living and you are teaching me a lot so I can work on engines / generators, mowers and help people. I’m concerned about the Generac brand though. It seems like you get a lot of these in lately with the failed clones Honda Chinese engines on them.
I think most were due to oil contamination and poor maintenance. There are also a lot of generacs around so it might seem like they fail more often. The only thing I do not like about them is that they are overpriced when new for what they are.
I’ve had good results resharpening those utility blades on a fine green stone. On another note, could you easily make a small list of generators to look for based on wattages? Or based on manufacturer? I’d buy from you but I don’t think it pays to ship stuff 1000 miles! :-(
Hi James, would it have been worth swapping the valve springs out? This in my basic knowledge could be the one thing to cause the premature wear on one cam only. I don't know if you can measure spring tension (and length) on valves but it might be worth considering. FYI I been watching you for a couple of years and I have learnt so much through your thoroughness. Thanks for sharing.
Normal torque settings for class 8.8 bolts/nuts: M3 x 0,5 - 1,27 Nm; M4 x 0,7 - 2,94 Nm; M5 x 0,8 - 5,71 Nm; M6 x 1,0 - 9,88 Nm; M8 x 1,25 - 23 Nm; M10 x 1,5 - 46,4 Nm; M12 x 1,75 - 79,1 Nm.
I notice that you use carb spray in a lot of cases to clean parts. Many years ago I purchased a Sure Shot refillable sprayer and fill it with gasoline. Not only does this method work very well at cleaning parts, it is a lot cheaper.
Some people go to the mountains to relax, and some to the seashore to meditate. I just have to listen/watch James "do his engine thing". I love the sounds of a functioning engine - and the healing of his voice.
I am still laughing like an idiot... My little son, who is a bit of a smart alec, comes into my office where I'm watching your video and it's at the first test run part and out of no where he ask's me, "Dad, is that one of those new Blu Tooth Generators?" while pointing at the absence of the generator. He never ceases to amaze me. Just had to share it with someone.
Because of you and your videos I decided to buy “sick” generators and get them operational. I don’t sell them but give them to needy people. Living in se Louisiana we need them especially after a hurricane. I had one ready to go after . After A LOT of problems it was like new before I could give it away someone stole it. Oh well on to the next one….thanks James
Glad you got it going, it was just gathering rust in my garage!
Will get it swapped into a generator next week and try to bring it up to full load. Thanks Ken for sending this one to me.
Unique discovery in Jame's garage. A blue sombrero at 55 minutes and 33 seconds. Hooray and Ole!
37:08 That kind of wear doesn't just "happen" I would definitely take the head off and examine the valve and the valve spring. Something caused that excessive wear. Since no other part in this engine has excessive wear, it wasn't contamination or loss of oil. Other than contamination of the cam or the lifter from the factory, there is no explanation, at least so far in the video. But SOMETHING caused it. It didn't just happen.
Rust contamination I think was the main issue. Also the spring tension was high for small engine increasing the west. The GP series are also known for cam failures. Probably sub standard manufacturing.
@@jcondon1 How did the rust selectively wear out the exhaust lobe and not wear any other part including the intake lobe?
You said the spring tension felt excessive. That would do it. I think you should put a new exhaust spring in it. You would think a worn spring would have less tension. So maybe it was defective from the beggining. I think the spring tension measurement gauge is fairly expensive. They may not even publish a spec for it anyway.
Those rocker arms sure do look heavy duty compared to the pressed soft junk that the majority of the others use.
Thank-you! It's remarkable that the wear was so specific on the one cam.
Yeah and it’s seems to be common on this brand of late model engines
Factory defects for sure
induction hardening missing on one cam i think, factory defect not noticed by qc
@@jusb1066I think you're spot on. I work on these machines as a side business and I'm finding more and more issues related to poor metallurgy and coatings.
James! You just invented the very first generator optimized for producing imaginary power! Owners of capacitors and inductors everywhere will be breaking down your door soon to buy this!
Otherwise, a suggestion: for new engines and rebuilds, install a magnetic dipstick for the first few hours of running. You will be amazed at how much material it will capture. No more ferrous metal finding its way into bearing surfaces. I have magnets in all of my 4-cycle OPE. There's always something on it every time I check. And that's in every engine, so it's not presaging some grenading event. A new Ariens LCT 420CC snowblower engine that I broke in a few days ago, there was a substantial amount of material after just two hours of run-in at 2400 rpm. I don't believe that there's anything wrong with the engine, it's just normal wear-in. in any event, it might be interesting to try it on your next major rebuild just to see.
Where does one find a magnetic dipstick for so many different engines? I like the idea.
James you are with out a doubt the best Generator Surgeon I have ever seen here on TH-cam. I have learned so much from watching your videos and now I am applying those skills to my own repairs. Thank You for bringing us in to watch these videos.
Man I had my keyboard fired up and warm and was getting ready to tell you how you should take this engine apart. Working on industrial equipment for 75% of my life I can attest that sometimes the torque values aren't always available. So engineering support always used engineering standards which most of the time was within tolerance. I can't believe a Honda clone or any other engine with journals the same size as the Generac assembly values couldn't be used. Great job James, just when I thought you were backing away scared you redeemed yourself as the engine whisperer !
At end of day it's a generator engine not the space shuttle
@@kylepaluzzi4176you could have just read hes comment and said nothing
@@kylepaluzzi4176 If I recall a few of those have blown up also !
@@MrTonyPiscatelle ‘just an O ring’ on one occasion wasn’t it🙄
Jim I'm glad you stressed a proper break in for the flat tappet cam and lifters and added Zinc to the oil for the break in period ,car engines and all small engines I run zinc in them especially my 1960s chevy motors
👌👌👍👍 Thanks for the video. I would have replaced the exhaust valve spring too. If the old spring is too tight, it will wear down the new camshaft lobe.
I change out both springs on the two I did and installed Honda camshafts
Will find out once there used this winter how it turns out
Love your rope in the cylinder trick. Never saw that before.
so glad to see you applying assembly lube to bearing journal..... stop switch was wired wrong...good job!
I'd like to see him get away from the almost useless WD-40 and start using AeroKroil. WD-40 is not an effective "lubricant" nor a good penetrant.
Those are some mighty robust rocker arms for such a small engine!
How tame, a wheel puller! When I had to get a flywheel off, it was a couple of beefy flat blade screw drivers prying up from under the flywheel while you rapped on the crankshaft with a hammer !
Now there's your dinner
A lot of people dont realize that periodic running of a generator is important (perhaps almost as important as oil changes). After the engine runs at temperature and is then stopped, either the intake or exhaust valves can be open and moisture can and will condense on cooling surfaces, leading to rusting. Rust is abrasive. I wonder if a good practice would be to turn over the engine untill it is on its' compression stroke when storing it (just like running the carb dry).
I always turn the engine over until I hit compression before storing. Valves are closed and moisture kept out of the cylinder.
Great info I have worked on many small engines after 25 years of military service and am still learning info after watching your videos. Thanks
Hello James: Another enjoyable and informative video. I will date myself here. Before the internet Era, when torque specks on a critical item like Con Rods or head bolts was not known.The common practice was to use a torque wrench and tighten the bolt or nut until it just moved. Take the reading. To allow for set resistance on reassembly use a torque set point slightly lower than the reading obtained. My personal adjustment was 5% reduced. I have never had a problem with nuts or bolts coming lose or breaking using this method.
You can look up maximum torque values in charts online. It depends on the bolt grade, thread size and pitch, material it's screwing into, and lubricant. If the spec is for dry threads but you have them lubricated (oil, grease, antiseize, whatever) you have to lower the torque by 30% or you will overtorque
@@brainndamage You are correct. There is an unending combination of factors that go into determining proper torque specifications. The use of establishing a torque value and then turning an additional # of degrees is being used frequently now. Following the manufactures instructions is by far the best method. If you were out in the field doing an emergency field repair and the information was not available or known what would you do?
@@swallowinn4410 turning aspecified number of degrees is done for TTY (torque to yield) and will permanently stretch the bolt, you usually don't want that. It is very common on critical bolts however, cylinder head or exhaust manifold bolts. You can usually get a good torque by feel if you're experienced enough.
@@brainndamage You are not telling me anything I did not know or understand. You did not answer the Question. What would you do if you had to complete a repair with an unknown torque value? As I mentioned I am not young, my mechanical and engine building experience was primarily in the Aircraft industry. Now retired I still routinely repair and build engines.This being said I am not too old to learn and adapt to a better method. So I repeat the question what would you do if you needed to complete a repair and did not know the torque value for a critical component?
I got one of these generators for free that was in a fire. I rebuilt it top to bottom and it ran and provided reliable power when tuned properly.
I like your generous use of assembly lube 😊 ❤
Looks like a prime candidate for some MotorKote...will definitely help with moisture and since it's a hyperlubricant, it might help prevent wiping out the camshaft again
It amazes me that you are so meticulous. Not only replace the cam shaft, but why did it fail? Rust abrasion. I never would have thought of that. Awesome content, James. Keep up the good work.
I’ve had to newer engines that had bad cam and I was shocked
Never see it before on a Honda engine in 25 years
They failed at factory with the cam manufacturer
I expect there were a number of engines with a bad run of camshafts.
Thanks! Your videos have saved me a bundle, by DIY repairing my equipment instead taking it for service or replacing. Your videos are great, detailed tutorials, so well done and articulated and fun to watch!
Thanks Jim!
I was actually thinking it’s not like you to not do the job right and use the torque spec as a reason. I soon learned i was wrong. Great video once again.
I don’t like to guess on important bolts, but sometimes you have to take an educated guess and hope it’s good enough.
James...I just saw this video for the first time...In "comments" there was a question as to why the head was not pulled & inspected.as to the possible cause of the cam failure. Here is a thought from an old street rodder/classic car guy. Oil formulations have changes significantly since the introduction of catalytic converters in the mid-70's. ZDDP (a zinc based additive ) which was in oil & needed to stop flat tappet cam wear/failure in engines was removed because it clogged the converters. Oil manufacturers removed the ZDDP and vehicles started using "roller lifter cams & followers" to compensate. Under sustained high load/stress (like a generator) most of today's oils( no matter how good) are not designed to cope with flat tappet/cam wear. That's the short story...more info is available on the web. I use a ZDDP additive in the oil of all my older non-catalytic cars to prevent cam & lifter wear...I also use it in all my 4 cycle small engines. Some specialty oil can be purchased with ZDDP, but I just keep a bottle of it around and add it to my oil at changes. It is available at Amazon and some auto parts stores.
Well I got to say another find video that's just about mesmerizing I don't know how you do it with the timing of your videos but it's almost like 100% right on with all the assembly work and testing
It is the Old Man at Eliminator Performance in Canada. Just wanted to say one of the best assemble videos i have seen, well done James. Especially liked the dual oil change comparison which should make some people think they should change their oil once they have used a brand new purchase.
Thanks Wayne. It was a big difference. Cannot change the oil enough on a new or rebuilt engine.
meticulous work, had fun watching....good job! Javi G.
A new video - This is how you like to start a good day 👍
I commend your attention to detail and systematic approach. Nothing half-@assed here.
Indasa Rhynowet silicon carbide abrasive paper is the best I've used. Not sure of it full range, but I have it up to 2500 grit. It cuts great; far better than any 3M paper I've used. I've used it wet with oil and water and dry. I can get mirror finish on metal I polish with it.
Very nice video James. We have an incomplete generator at the shop we’d like to get rid of. It’s all complete except for the stator and electrical components. 9HP vanguard engine which did start last spring. Still has the rotor. We aren’t doing anything with it and it’s just taking up space. No name on the machine but I’ve been told it’s a Dayton 5000 watt unit.
Not sure where you are located, but love the 9hp vanguard engines.
I’m in Ohio.
You made the right call to remove the crankshaft. It is always a good idea when replacing or rebuilding the top end, to always at least inspect the bottom end. This is because top end repairs put more strain on already worn bottom end, and can lead to premature failure of bottom end.
I had a similar situation with a briggs intek. It didn't have an oil filter, was about 20 years old and my buddy bought it used. He had starting issues/running issues and once we opened up the engine we saw the cam had excessive wear. A new OEM camshaft later and it runs better than it ever did for him. I think it was a combination of no oil filter, ran hard, ran low on oil, excessive intervals between oil changes, and oil that didn't have enough zinc for flat tappets. Out of the hundreds of pieces of equipment I've had/worked on it was the only one I've come across with this issue. No idea how many hours were on the motor as the machine didn't have an hour meter but it was a surprised failure to me.
Good on you for throwing a little extra zinc at it, extra insurance for that new camshaft. Excellent video as always James!
Hi, James. I know it is a big pain, but I would change the exhaust valve spring. Thanks for sharing! Stay Healthy!
I would take open the valve cover that other failed engine that was spoken of and see what type of spring it had. By type I mean super stiff or seemingly normal.
Assuming the factory put a stiffer exhaust spring in it, but why?
Wise to tear down and completely rebuild especially looking at rod bearings.
The readily available Rato 420 specs would work nicely! If I recall, these engines have 2 oil fill and drain ports. The oil drains have galleys that are drilled into the crankcase to facilitate oil draining. These galleys collect all kinds of debris and are often overlooked when cleaning the engine block for repairs.
Really best to take it completely apart and flush with diesel and air psi to get it all out
Yea more work but it’s clean
1:00:45 always enjoy the camera aliasing which shows the engine "wiggling" as the aliasing nearly stops the vibrations.
Nice work James. I too was surprised at how much metal was there. Maybe check valve clearance to see if cam did ware down some.
James inoculated the engine with zinc, first time I have seen that on the channel. Good idea. I have used the STP zinc additive on my race engines with good results.
Normally not needed on a small engines since the valve springs are pretty weak. On this engine, the springs were stronger then most. Puts a lot of stress on the cam. That and the rust I think were to blame for the failure.
@@jcondon1 Oh, for sure the rust was a contributing factor. Something that would be interesting would be the use of synthetics in small engines. Either blended or full synthetics. In car engines, it is very easy to tell when an engine has used synthetics versus conventional. Since many of these engines sit unused for a long period of time, would the use of synthetics help keep the rust and corrosion at bay a little better?
@@jcondon1 Hey, tried reaching you back about a month ago wanting to know where I can get that "IV fuel bottle" thing you use when you are not using the OEM fuel tank for testing. Can you put a link to it please?
Found several of these camshafts bad this summer, thinking they messed up heat treatment
Never seen a older engine Honda do this before
James as always you have turned nothing into something.
Keep posting as your information is very helpful to those of us that still DYI our equipment.
This generator is now Built Back Better! Great videos.. keep em coming please!
I can do that job!
(Not yet proven...). ...
This man inspires other men and he should be respected accordingly.
James,
Keep going with the long format!! It's nice to see everything, all the problems, all the solutions!
Love watching your videos!
Have you ever thought of setting up a “carb stand” where you can connect your aux fuel container higher than the carb before you install it on the engine? This can be done while you work on other things. Some leaks take time to show themselves.
It would save so much time in the long run. I’ve never seen this done in any of the many repair channels that I watch. My two cents.
As long as the frame is in great shape you can use it for another generator. engine And power unit as long as the AVR is not messed up and the engine is still working
Nice job, James. Looking forward to next time. Thanks for sharing.
Thought i saw it all but the rope trick in the cylinder to hold the crankshaft... Best of the best for content MR,Condon Thank you for sharing
Small engines have never been a part of my skill set but they will be starting in the next few days.
I've now watched about 12 hours of your engine rebuilding videos and I feel I have absorbed enough information to begin a fast learning curve.
It's almost a guarantee I won't get it exactly right the first couple of attempts but I've always learned a lot from my mistakes. Besides, it isn't a race or a competition...at this point, and I've really got nothing to lose because learning is winning.
Your videos are excellent and you are certainly a Master and I admire your knowledge and skill.
Really enjoy your videos James! Thanks so much for making them available to us all!
Changed my oil recently on my lawn tractor. It looked good on the dip stick before I changed it but came out weird like it had moisture in it. So after I changed it I cut the grass once and changed it again and I could see were it cleaned it out. I’ll be changing it more often at 25 hours or so. I think I went about 100 hour on the last one. Anyhow changing the oil out after a short while does clean things up quite a bit if needed. Good video.
I change oil every 20 hours
It’s cheaper than buying or fixing engine
Deere and DELO oil already have additives for flat tappet lifters.They're the only 2 according to Brian Bloc02.
Delo 400 is what I use in my personal small engines and 30 w
Me too and my 89 S-10. I get 80+ p.s.i. oil pressure idling with a 195 degree thermostat at full operating temperature. It's 15/40 and I also use Valvoline 15/40 diesel formula but I think the Delo is better. Valvoline has been my #2 for years.@@philliphall5198
when I got my Generator with a 420cc engine I did a 30 min run with no load and the oil looked like that..
its on its 3rd oil change with about 8 Hr on it and the oil looks clean coming out.
You might want to look into a nice carbide scraper to clean off those gaskets in the future.
I have one. Maybe I am using it wrong, always takes aluminum with it.
@@jcondon1 Well that's not good. I've seen others like South Main Auto use one with good results.
I use those scotch brites in an angle grinder. Even i can't screw it up and doesn't gouge the aluminum
I've always avoided any sort of material that will scratch metal I do not want to remove ! That's what I was taught, and I prefer to stick to it. I have seen some damage done by using the wrong grade of scotchbrite, guys don't seem to realise that in making surfaces "nice and shiny" they are removing material to do it ! Me, i'd rather see smooth heat discoloured metal than"shiny".
Thank you for doing your video and sharing it with us, I learn a lot from your videos
Always interesting to watch this channel..
.. you need a solvent parts washer .. 💯
I'm think a fair amount of water got into that engine block. Maybe the counterbalance not being timed to the cam and crank had something to do with the excessive wear on the exhaust lobe?
I don’t think so because I had two that did the same thing, but were just like this and I also replaced the valve springs
Never seen it before on a GX engine before
I noticed on the crank there was an area thst didnt clean up during machining on one of the counterweights. I wonder if there might have been some casting sand left in the crank.
James . You really explain the repair process very well. I now know what to do with my wifes Amazon cardboard boxes in the future 🤣🤣🤣🤣
James, that was a great video. I have the exact generator. Bought new in 2016, and has been a great machine. Keeping that oil changed regularly is a must. Thanks to you, I'll know what to expect if I ever have to tear it down! Thanks for all you do! Your videos are a pleasure to watch and and the content is always top notch!
I honestly had no idea you could polish with a rope like that. That's going to come in handy later!
This scraper is a game changer
Innovative Tools International SS-1 Super Scraper
This is what happens when people use oil with not enough zinc in it. Always run good high zinc oil in 4 stroke equipment.. I run Shell Rotella T-5 or t-6 usually 15w40. I run it in classic cars with extra zddp additive and my 4stroke atvs and equipment! And yes that's in cold temps of Wisconsin!
It's always a pleasure to watch your videos, James. Detailed perfectionist 👏
Amazing skills James, as mentioned you are an Engine Whisperer 😅😊
Wow I have never seen a camshaft that worn. Great video as always.
Ken's, OMG, I miss Buffalo, NY but I love SC and no snow.... lol
At minute mark 8:00, it looked like you weee setting a small car engine down on your lift. 😂😂😂💯
we don't steal.......we repurpose. Sorry that was beat into my brain years ago and has always stayed with me.
I would have figure with the way you cleaned that engine that the oil drained the first time should have been clean. WOW
Great work .
Have you ever considered using or indeed making your own magnetic oil drain plugs? I have epoxied small pill sized neo magnets onto the end of standard drain plugs in the past instead of buying new magnetic plugs.
most of their trash will be alumium so wont help
@@jusb1066 yes I guess it may be but it’s the iron/steel particles that do the most damage when suspended in the oil and a magnetic sump plug will help hold these back don’t you think?
Another great master class, James. I'm wondering if this engine had water intrusion, or perhaps the moisture causing the 3rd body wear from rust was due to condensation from out door storage. Kind Regards. Craig
Likely condensation. It was stored outdoors under cover BU the original owner and then in Ken’s basement for a few years.
The customer actually had it in a vented Rubbermaid shed under his deck.
Hey james I just acquired a 8kw generator from a campground it has been ran over so I’m planning on getting a replacement frame for it as a replacement carburetor and air box for it
if you can find engine oil that ends with a suffix T, the T stands for tack. the oil has in it an aditive that makes the oil tacky, and will stick to the surfaces it contacts. ideal for assembly, and use in applications that stay idle for long periods. the heat of the engine running would have loosened particles most likely, a hot kerosene bath would have been the best clean, or a large ultrasonic tank
Okay, how many folks are surprised he did not replace the seals lol. I guess the adage, "if it isn't broken don't fix it is appropriate. "
I was wondering about the piston & rings.
I’m not taking the chance, to much work for 6 bucks, just replace it is my thinking 😊
42:30, you could do what everybody else does, give the flywheel nut, four or five Aubba-Duggers with an electric impact.
Most shops never bring out a torque wrench for a flywheel, since the taper is what holds the flywheel in place, not the nut.
Also, by using the rope it puts unnecessary force on the piston and rod.
I sure hope you change out the exhaust spring, both is best
I also wondered if the apparent oil contamination was due to he added zinc? Don’t get me wrong it was a good idea without doubt to use it
I use different colors of bread ties to mark wires alot
I have a couple of older vehicles with flat tappet cams, and I have always used oil with ZDDP to protect the camshafts. Although I have always known that my small engines use flat tappets (are there small engines with roller lifters?) it never crossed my mind about using zinc. I should think this might even be more important with small engines that are only started rarely, like backup generators. Am I worrying about nothing? After all, I've never heard of wiping cams in small engines being an issue.
It’s a problem only with the Generac GP series. The springs in that model exert a lot of pressure in the cam. Would not worry too much about it on most small engines since there valve springs are usually a lot weaker then automotive springs. Some small engines use a belt or chain driven cam. Some kohlers use hydraulic lifters. Must use push rods and flat tappet cams.
@@jcondon1 Thanks Jim. You have to wonder why Generac would use such a strong spring on the exhaust valve (and not the intake,too). One of my old Corvettes has a 434 cu. in. engine cranking out 650 hp at 6,900 rpm. Although it’s a roller engine I still use oil with ZDDP. Because of the cam profile, and the high rpm the valve springs are extremely stout. Neither of these is the case with a small engine operating at 3600 rpm. Do you or any of your other viewers have a possible reason as to why Generac chose such a stronger spring in this application?
How does your tachometer work? Does it listen for TDC or sparc? I didn't see any connection or clamp. Nice teardown. Thanks for sharing
I was surprised you put that much money into this, but you seem to have a home for it, whatever. On the lube while assembling, I'm a little more liberal, but I save assembly lube (and moly) for the flat surfaces (rod journal, etc). I just douse the gears and ball bearings in oil. I use too much lubricant assembling because I cut my teeth in a German shop and the boss caught me putting in a set of points without lubing the rubbing block and he imparted this German phrase to me (I speak German anyway): "Wer schmiert gut, fahrt gut.: (Who greases good, drives good). It has stuck me with since then, and that was ~50 years ago.
Can never use too much lube. The cam was very overpriced. I could buy a cam for a car for just a little more money.
The two I fixed didn’t even have a hundred hours on them
Factory defects
I think there are a lot more out there with this problem just waiting to happen
think a lot of viewers are naive about how much money he makes from views. He needs a video, weekly. The expense of parts isn’t a factor at this point. There is a bigger machine that needs oiling now.
@@billhenry7833 I'm aware he makes money on his videos. All TH-cam creators with a following do. It's work to shoot, edit and post videos and he's entitled to whatever money he makes on them. I was surprised a cam cost $135+ for a clone engine, but he has plans for that engine and that's ok with me. Some creators flood their channel with worthless puffery after initial success. James doesn't, he sticks to his niche and that's why he's successful IMHO.
@@cheapcookiesHe makes about 1.2 cents per view.
I reckon you need a parts washer, or at least a tray of Kerosene and a 1 inch paint brush.
Sometimes you just got to use that old mechanics torquewrist...
A lot of people don't realize it but these are flat tappet style cam shaft engines and they need high zinc in their oil
While there are some variables, most 1/4 inch bolts are 89 inch pounds, again, variables play a part such as what the bolt in threaded into to, but have yet to break one.
James, thank you for all your do in your videos. I know this is how you make your living and you are teaching me a lot so I can work on engines / generators, mowers and help people. I’m concerned about the Generac brand though. It seems like you get a lot of these in lately with the failed clones Honda Chinese engines on them.
I think most were due to oil contamination and poor maintenance. There are also a lot of generacs around so it might seem like they fail more often. The only thing I do not like about them is that they are overpriced when new for what they are.
I’ve had good results resharpening those utility blades on a fine green stone.
On another note, could you easily make a small list of generators to look for based on wattages? Or based on manufacturer? I’d buy from you but I don’t think it pays to ship stuff 1000 miles! :-(
Hi James, would it have been worth swapping the valve springs out? This in my basic knowledge could be the one thing to cause the premature wear on one cam only. I don't know if you can measure spring tension (and length) on valves but it might be worth considering. FYI I been watching you for a couple of years and I have learnt so much through your thoroughness. Thanks for sharing.
Normal torque settings for class 8.8 bolts/nuts: M3 x 0,5 - 1,27 Nm; M4 x 0,7 - 2,94 Nm; M5 x 0,8 - 5,71 Nm; M6 x 1,0 - 9,88 Nm; M8 x 1,25 - 23 Nm; M10 x 1,5 - 46,4 Nm; M12 x 1,75 - 79,1 Nm.
Awesome job...👍😎👍
I notice that you use carb spray in a lot of cases to clean parts. Many years ago I purchased a Sure Shot refillable sprayer and fill it with gasoline. Not only does this method work very well at cleaning parts, it is a lot cheaper.
Can anyone tell me where that lift can be purchased? It looks great.
I wonder if the filthy oil the first time running it was rest in the cylinder bore getting scraped out by the rings
I am wondering if spraying Fluid Film on the internal parts would prevent rust?