Excuse me if you spotted this later in the video BUT at 1:03:24 I never saw you swap the outputs from the circuit breaker where you had one of the black wires connected to the red wire and vice versa. Don't know about the USA but we are very particular that the phase wire always goes to a specific connector in the plug and yours won't.
In this case there is not issue. The generator is 240 volt single phase with neutral as the center tap. From neutral (center tap) to either end you get 120 volts. From end to end 240 volts. The red and black wires were the live wires from each of the legs. They are interchangeable. It will just change which 120v legs feed what 120v outlets. The 240 output has two live wires and they are across from each other so swapping their location does not impact the output as the ground and neutral are unchanged.
@@jcondon1 Hmmm I guess you generate 240v a different way to us. In our case the phase always goes to the left hand outlet pin. If it gets swapped, and I have seen it done like this usually from ignorance, the on/off switch on the user device ends up switching the neutral and not the phase. Functionally it all works until there is a fault or somebody starts mucking around with the internals only to find that they have their hands in basically a live device that they thought was off (and they didn't check first which they should have).
Noticed same. And if you rewind the video when this is teared down, there are black& black + red&red. I would open it up, and change them as they were. But i'm from Finland, and we got 230V systems, so it might be different here. Great videos, love to watch you go. 💪
@@chrissybabe8568We make 240v the same way as your country. The difference is we put a center tap in the transformer. The big distinction is that no matter what, the potential between phase and ground from a split phase supply is always 120v instead of 240. If you left the neutral terminal disconnected you could theoretically run a European home with it and not know the difference.
@@chrissybabe8568 We have something called split phase. In this way North American homes can use both 120v and 240v appliances. Polarity (what you are talking about) always matters for 120v wiring, since there is a hot (live) wire and neutral wire. Our 120v outlets have a wide blade (neutral) and a narrow blade (hot) so that plugs only go in one way, and are wired that way for the same reason you said (so the appliance switches the hot, not the neutral). 240v uses both hot legs, which are 120v relative to neutral, but are 240v to each other since they are 180 degrees out of phase. In that case the position doesn't matter, since both wires are hot. Look up split phase on wikipedia for more info, or watch an excellent Technology Connections video about it.
It's been a banner week for my brother and I. 5 lawnmowers that we picked up super cheaper or free. $60 in parts (cheap carbs and cleanout of others.) 4 sold in one day! We have learned so much watching your videos! Thank you.
@@jcondon1 Should work out some sort of bulk shipping down here to the Texas Gulf Coast: unreliable power plus hurricanes. No problem selling generators.
@jcondon1 in some cases, due to not many home owners looking for auxillary power want cords propping doors and windows open. Best choice over standby is the 30 or 50 amp inlet box if generator is outside open in the weather or under a canopy built to keep the majority of rain, snow off of it. Plug in, flip a switch and bring on the loads up to unit rating or 85% . I've have this 8250 w new Generac portable in garage since August 2023, ran it ten minutes..😮 need to break it in... of course, everything hooked up and utility came back on..just like 2003, August 14. My new 7250w ran twenty minutes..then an unwanted person borrowed it.
@@RossReedstrom Rent a uhaul maxi van by James. (Where) My brother is in Killeen, Tx Grand daughter in Weatherford, Tx, daughter in Mesa, Az, sister and niece in Eugene, Or...long time friend in Phillipsburg, NJ, and I'm in Detroit area.. logistics ???
Thanks for showing a dual carburetor. Great work, as always. You always end your videos with, "I hope this video helped someone. Thanks for watching." I grin when I hear it because I have learned so much watching your channel.
Did you notice that almost all the problems in small engines are carburetor related. Should a manufacturer not include how to store them when not in use. Whether to run them totally dry or put something like Stabil in the gas. Maybe every generator should come with a bottle of fuel stabilizer so that owners will use it. Keep up the good work as I enjoy all of your work. Note that most carburetors have a drain plug to empty the bowl. Instead of a drain plug why not a valve. Easy peasy.
I work for a German industrial connector company and Mouser is one of our biggest customers. They are very professional and have an amazing variety of our parts
I’ve watched James remove the air box on another Generac and it seems to me that the top two studs should be removed and the bottom screws just loosened. That way, the air box can be lifted straight up. A stuck gasket may prevent this approach but reassembly would be much easier if the two top studs are not fitted until the air box is in place. The slots in the air box for the bottom two screws suggests this was the intended method of assembly.
I second that or another possibility, the bottom screws are way longer than the tops and smooth shaft most of the way. It could be that you start the bottom ones ever so slightly and are able to slide the air box on to them threw the open slots that the bolts go in and then feed the air box over the other two shorter studs pretty easily, then just tight everything up,🤔
The manufacturers almost never think about fuel filter, that's why when I bought my generator I immediately added a fuel filter myself. Great video and craftsmanship 👍🏼
James I had a busy day yesterday. When I finally got some time for myself, I watched this video and enjoyed it immensely. It's such a thrill to watch you take a piece of junk and restore it to working order again.
That carb, although probably different, reminds me of the predator carb. A v-Twin engine is a departure from the norm, so it's always a welcome change to see a different style machine.
This video helped someone! My brother-in-law has a John Deere riding lawn mower with that style carb! I had no idea the solenoid needed juice to allow it to run. And neither he nor I knew how to properly clean it. I did a half job, and got it running....but now we can go in with confidence next time.
If the solenoid is mounted vertically, it gathers all of the heavy debris as well as every drop of drying varnished fuel. The carb in the video mounts the solenoid horizontally, a better design that at least puts it slightly above the lowest point in the system. I measure the inductance to verify that the solenoid coil is not shorted (which it never is), before repeatedly soaking and trying to spin the needle. If you have time, just do a quick clean of the bowl and put in fresh fuel to soak for a few days before working on it further.
@@1djbecker It's a John Deere 125, iirc it was horizontally mounted. Thanks for the feedback, I appreciate any help! After our "cleaning" (not sure how good a job we did) - I told him use ethanol free fuel and run carb cleaner through it since we had it finally running.
@@hieyeque1 Once the horizontal solenoid valves are moving at all they finish cleaning themselves. The vertical ones can't eject the solids and need to be removed for cleaning, perhaps several times.
Hi Jim: Great job. I have been working on a Kohler lawnmower. Carb is the problem. Cleaned, carb. now working well. I love watching you. Learned much. JP
Great video! I really like you videoing the details. Everyone skips half the details and am lost on what to do. Thank you for making really great videos!
(Non professional here) I thought the fuel supply having an uphill battle from the asphalt to the carb inlet was causing the surging... nice catch with the pilot jets. Also, with the testing you do, I realize there's a WHOLE LOT I need to learn about how these outlets are set up and how these things work. Thanks for the video, I learned a lot and enjoyed it in the process!
Always use a grease rag to stuff into any openings to prevent a slip of the fingers becoming a full tare down. Always use a preventable way to stop unnecessary mistakes. Everyone who has ever done some kind of mechanical work has experienced this. Just have a steady pace and you will knock out the problem in so short of time. Love this guy! He is so honest that he couldn't run for public office!😅
The plastic linkage for the governor looks like the ones on my R/C truck. You can get a bag full from any hobby shop. The nylon ones last a good long time. Nice video. I've learned quite a bit.
Absolutely love your content. I have tinkered in small engine repair off and on for 25 years and got really interested in generators when I had a Generac whole home 24kw installed last year to replace a 6500E that just didn't cut the mustard when we were out for 3 days last summer. Watching you troubleshoot and save some of these devices is always a pleasure, and I've even picked up a few tips for getting the most of an older mowers and power washer that might otherwise have been sent to the junk pile.
That is one mean generator!! Great fix. I bought a Vyking Force generator the other day. I've not tested it yet. It's rated at 4KVA. The engine is a 7.5hp unit. Will be interesting to see how good it is.
large two cylinder GEN. My generator shipped in box. The starter cover was damaged the 220 v recepticle was damaged . all parts were repaired and works well B & S engine.... 👍
That oil looked horrendous! I guess 10 years of oxidation and moisture condensing in it and the fuel did a number on it! I think i saw some water come out with the second oil too. Good thing a good mechanic like you got his hands on it!
Another great save. I have bought a lot from various big electronic part suppliers (farnell, mouser, digi-key, etc) and their customer service always have been great. Always helped with missing part or when they delivered component that was just not what was ordered. You went a long way with changing connectors an those wires, I would have tried drilling M3 or M4 hole into breaker spades. There should be enough meet in them for that. Then just bolt the ring terminated wires with some nuts and bolts with washers.
I also would have the drilled out, for my own use. Heck, for my own use, I'd have expoxied some extra bits to create handles for the OEM part. For something I'm selling, modifying a power safety component would be out of spec. He's using the appropriate connectors for the part as designed, in spec for the rest of the system (which is why he was careful to mention the wire gauge was still in spec for the connectors he used). James is a careful guy. :)
Wow Bro. ! You really are amazing. With around $100.00. You manage to get the machine back to its original optimum running condition. The price of the faulty circuit breaker at above $200.00 must be the main reason preventing most from willing to pay to try on getting the machine just to start up. There are many more minor issues to consider too. You are able to source for the same specification of the circuit breaker at $75.00 is also a barrier you have overcome. That is indeed a great cost saving. Step by step diagnostic by your experience hands are really amazing too. I spent countless of hours watching your videos on repair and restoration of various types of machine even though I have no knowledge on the mechanic, electrical and electronic of all the machine you are handling. It is like watching a movie to me. The storyline, the plots and the exciting ending. Sometimes it felt like a horror movie when you are working on the run down machine. Keep it up! Thank you very much.
James, very through as alway with great results. Saved another generator for use with someone who will need and use it. I was not surprised by the price of replacement parts as that seems to be the future of repairing equipment. Keep posting, as always, your post does help use in many ways on other small engine repairs in which you have followed through on troubleshooting. Tks, Michael
For a while, I thought that the "nasty" spark plug was going to be one of the culprits.That happened to you recently. OTOH, it always amazes to me how "sensitive' those carb designs, parts and "channels" seem to be. Not to mention "old" gas and oil. Thanks for the detailed video and explanations!1
It's always a happy event when I see that you've posted a new video. 😀 I noticed that you plugged the red wire piggy-backed onto the spade connector for the black wire and the black wire piggy-backed onto the connector for the red wire. At the minimum, that will reverse active and neutral on one outlet, which will probably cause horrible issues if the generator is ever earthed. My attempt to resurrect an old generator is on hold due mainly to my own carelessness. I got some drills and on attempting to drill out the jet, I promptly broke the drill bit inside the jet, leaving it blocked and with no way of unblocking it. So, I have to wait for another new carburettor and a new set of drills before I can make another attempt at fixing the genny.
It won't reverse hot and neutral. The neutral is not connected to the breaker. The black and red are two hots which go to different outlets, so it shouldn't be a problem.
Those are both hot wires. Will just switch which legs down stream. Had to do it because the wire length with the spade connectors was an issue. Should not cause any issue.
@@whitcwa Good to know, thanks. On this side of the world though, I don't think they'd have used black for a hot side at all. They may have used red for one "leg" and red with a white stripe or something like that for the other, but not black. But then again, on this side of the world it's all the one "leg" since we don't use 120V. It's all 240V.
@@jcondon1 Thanks. I got confused because I'm certain that on this side of the world you wouldn't be permitted to use black for a "hot" leg (maybe one leg red and the other leg red with a white or brown stripe or something like that). But then again, we only use 240V so there's probably only a single "leg" in the first place. If the generators are made in the USA then they probably have two legs but with both permanently connected in series.
Nice one Jim. Thanks for going through the two-cylinder engine carb in such detail. I'm working on a similar engine and this was very timely. Keep up the great work!
My gold standard for "it's a fuel problem" is a shot of ether/starting fluid down the carburetor throat. When it pops, it's a carb issue. Just did this for a neighbor's generator, that his FIL had messed with. Got it running, (junk blocking the main jet), but it's still surging. Dear FIL just about destroyed the main jet (rounded off 1/2 the screw slot) and did tear the carburetor gasket - once a new gasket comes in, I think the surging problem will be solved.
This will work 90% of the time but can burn you by masking compression and/or ignition issues. Ether/starting fluid ignites much more easily than gasoline and might run an engine that won’t run (or run properly) on gas.
@@ouch1011 I judge compression on hand feel. It would be harder to diagnose when it's a starter only gen set but you can mostly hear it. Good compression engines are springy, low compression ones turn easier and don't spring back as much.
@@ouch1011 Agreed, I think I'll downgrade it from gold standard to silver then. That leaves gold for what James does, adding fuel directly into the cylinder.
Very nice piece of work, Jim. Your video and sound quality just keep getting better and better. And your troubleshooting skills are an inspiration to all of us home maintenance folks. Thank you.
Another great video Jim! I've fixed several small engine surging issues caused by the pilot system. The last one was a Simpson Power washer that wouldn't run without the choke being engaged. When I took the carb apart it appeared much like your findings on this generator everything looked clean, even the pilot jets. I ran a root canal file through the pilot jet (thanks for the tip by the way), and reassembled the carb. The power washer started on the first pull and has run like a champ ever since! I think the pilot system causes a majority of small engine surging issues due to the very small passages fuel has to travel through. It might appear to be clear, but it doesn't take much of an obstruction to cause a fuel flow problem in the pilot circuit. Keep up the great video work!
OK James, another excellent video. Very methodical with meticulous attention to detail and the steady hands like a surgeon. One thing I would add: Call me lazy if you will, but I will often attempt to save a myself a lot of labor by force feeding the carb either thru the fuel line or a vent or right thru the main discharge orifice backwards into the fuel bowl, a mixture of gasoline with about 100 times as much carb/ fuel injector cleaner as is recommended on the bottle. Then I will let it sit. From a few hours if it ran recently to as long as a week if it's been years. Then I start the engine with spray starting fluid.(my choice is actual starting fluid so it offers a little more volatility because I will be trying to burn the old stale fuel that has some new fuel plus the fuel system cleaner in it.) Once I get it running and usually I can get it to keep running by spraying starting fluid and adding some level of restriction, i.e. Choke plate, then I proceed to run the engine at rated speed and go to full choke. On and off several times. Sometimes I will actually use my fingers to cover the entire inlet to the carb. That is called a P@*%&H tune up. Doing so pulls fuel from everywhere, completely through every path where fuel can move thru, and most of the now loosened/ dissolved dirt and foreign debris will be sucked right thru. It opens up the passages and if it works it can be the end of the repair. I am picky about 3 things: 1). I like starting fluid with actual diethyl ether instead of regualr gasoline derivatives such as butane heptane and propane or alcohol to get the explosive level needed to work with old stale fuel fuel and system detergent. 2). I have always used Gumout Brand carb cleaner because I have found it really works and it's been around for almost 100yrs, And finally 3). I use modern day fuel injection cleaner and fuel system conditioner additive with the patented brand name detergent called Techron. If I can get my customers to put a little bit of Techron into their fuel every so often, especially at the beginning of Lawn mowing or Snow Blowing season, I don't see any repeat issues. One more thing: Couldn't you have glued a piece between the two broken toggles on the circuit breakers? If the breaker was not compromised by the impact that broke the levers, a little JB and a Popsicle stick or piece of plastic would work just fine with less time and materials. OK, carry on and have a good time. ben/ michigan
Excellent job James; To the best of my memory, I did see different size main jets in two cylinder engines, I think they were in certain Briggs models on riding mowers from big box stores.
First time I 've seen an anti-backfire solenoid come apart for cleaning! I had one in a Kawasaki V-twin last weekend that was so varnished up it was shorted out!
The coil is usually 'outside' the sealed fuel chamber to avoid leaks. Varnish won't affect the coil insulation. An anti-backfire solenoid isn't designed for continuous use. It is activated only briefly as the engine is shut down to close off the main jet. It will draw a significant amount of current as it stores energy in the magnetic field in order to hold for a few seconds as the engine completely halts. You might have interpreted this high current as a short. The type of fuel shutoff solenoid shown here is a bit different. It operates as people expect -- it only allows fuel to flow when power is applied. It's used with larger electric-start-only engines, as it requires 12V power to allow fuel to flow. You can't fall back to using a pull start with a dead battery.
@@1djbecker All I know is the plunger was rusted solid and not moveable and filled with green varnish. I understand they are separated but couldn’t the wall of the housing broken down due to corrosion exposing the coils causing a short?
@@KensSmallEngineRepair The 'rust' is usually just hard varnish, perhaps filled with rust dust, that comes off to reveal brass. The assembly can pretty convincingly imitate a single piece. A shop often can't justify the soak time it takes to free the parts, or the risk that it won't come loose. I'll do it because I'm working on family, friends or neighbor's equipment. The only time I see shorted solenoid coils is when they have been completely toasted. Corrosion usually results in not drawing enough current or an open circuit.
Hello James, as usual, an interesting and very informative video. At 30:48 I noticed that you did not put locktite on the two screws on the bottom of the air filter housing. This reminded me of an engine that a customer brought to me and upon opening it we found a carburetor screw that was stuck between the piston and cylinder. Vibration, as you know, is terrible for unscrewing what is not retained and this screw was part of the air filter housing. It's rare that they're inside, but they're dangerous. Thank you for these good videos!
As I watched the video, I was wondering why you didn't address any possible debris in the primary jets (like I've seen you do on many other videos). See, I'm actually paying attention Master! On my phone, when you blasted carb cleaner thru the 2nd primary, I thought that I saw some dirty cleaner blow out. Thanks again, I'd love to hang out with you in your shop. Have you ever thought about offering "In person" classes? You are a natural instructor and you always hold my attention (which isn't easy, just ask my old teachers..., oh wait, they're all probably passed away by now!
Thank you James for your thorough review & repair. This machine might have been a floor model with old gas in it? Hence the really low hours. I personally don’t care for Generac’s unless we are talking the commercial stand by models. However they are all very noisy. You already know what I’m going to say….if you’re going to buy a roll out generator? Buy a Honda inverter. Hands down a way better, quieter machine that puts out perfect voltage. It puts out steady, clean power. I’ve had mine for 5 years with absolutely zero issues.
Another awesome gen revival. Someone bought it ran it a bit and then it sat for loong time. Carb was in pretty good shape actually. Agree Generac/DR are terrible for parts pricing.
Thanks James for the video on that carb. I have that same style carb on a Simplicity Broadmoor 22 hp that's crap. I'll take it apart today and go through it thoroughly. Nice generator and someone got a great deal.
Every time I watch your videos I learn something new. Great trouble shooting skill development. The oil shocked me, I really didn’t realize how unused oil can break down. Wondering if that’s also true with oil sitting on store shelf in original bottles??
I fixed a XG8000E for a generator repair guy because he stated "I am not good when it comes to electricity". It was brushless and was running way to slow to produce any power. Furthermore someone replaced the GFCI outlets and wired them wrong. These are somewhat a pain to work on as you have to remove a side panel or two and the gas tank to get to anything, had to reset the governor. All this being said I was impressed with how quiet they run and how heavy they are for only an 8000 watt unit. It appears to weigh quite a bit more than my Duromax XP12000EH. The THD being so low is impressive for a non-inverter generator.
Bad THD comes from a bad magnetic design and high resistance wires. The magnetic cores are not well made and are literally ringing while in use and that ringing at different frequencies distorts the main sinewave. Sometimes the AVR is to blame too, because it's made with low quality parts and is not specifically designed for the exact rotor/stator combination.
Generac did a very good job on their brushless generators. Like it was said in last reply the quality of the steel used in the rotor and stator laminations has to be just right. Generac knows how to do this and eliminate the AVR which does not help with THD. The capacitor used in the brushless models must be high quality also. THD on an XG8000e is 5% or less at all loads.
Beautiful as always. For future reference there exist little metal angle parts that accept a spade terminal and offer a screw. These may have worked well here.
That washer holding the pilot jets is a very unusual fastener, but I don't think it is proprietary. I actually have the tool to remove those. I found it in my grandfather's shop when he passed away. I wasn't sure what it was used for, but I am glad I kept it. It is just like a normal screwdriver, but with that notch cut out in the middle. You could easily make one out of a regular flathead screwdriver.
Nikki carbs used in Briggs v-twins do have different sized main jets. It's because the intake manifolds are different lengths to each cylinder. I don't know the specifics about the sizes, just that the differences exist in those engines.
I recall on one of my older snowmobiles there were slightly different jet sizes from one side to the other. If I recall it had to do with how cooling air flowed and one cylinder ran hotter. I guess this was their way of controlling that at the time. Not surprised here that they are the same size which as you said makes sense.
55:49 I would have put the link pin in from the top and the clip on the bottom. If the clip somehow falls off, the pin has gravity to help it stay in place. Another great video. I watch them all even though I only have two generators. Lots of useful tips for all small engine work. 👍
A habit I got into years ago is taking pictures. If I am working on a machine that I am not familiar with, I will take pictures before I begin disassembly, so that I have something to fall back on if I can't remember how something went together. It has saved me a lot of trouble numerous times.
At 42:12, the broken breaker had the two black wires on one terminal, and the two red wires on the other, and later you zip tied those pairs together. But at 53:56 you have a black/red on one terminal, and a black/red on the other? Shouldn't matter since it just means that whatever is down stream will have the phases swapped, but someone coming in behind you might wonder what's going on. Also, it looks like the generator has some little LEDs that shine on the outlets when it's running? That's a nice touch.
Correction: That swap very much could matter -- it nearly killed me once. Someone else had swapped neutral and hot, and I didn't know it. Specifics: I felt lots of current flowing through my arm and chest, where it found an excellent ground. I only survived by using my back muscles to pull my whole body away and break the circuit.
Hear Hear! Most of my neighbours call me an idiot for spending the money on a honda invertor for my house. I pretend to be hurt as I sip my hot coffee after having a warm shower during the power outages :) I really wish they were more frequent!
@@TheBry_Guy The bad thing about the inverter generators is that the inverter is potted and is unrepairable when it fails. And they do fail because of age - they have electrolytic caps that degrade in a few years after which the semiconductors have to deal with worse and worse spikes which at some point kills them. Sadly, they and maybe offline UPS are the only options for sensitive electronic equipment...
@@TheOriginalEviltech Yes and the Honda ones are horribly expensive. I have a Champion suitcase generator, they're not known for blowing inverter boards, but even if that does happen, they're like just a little over $300, and the Champion's are less than 1/2 the price of Honda EU2000's. Plus the Champion I have I run it on propane, so I don't have to deal with stale fuel, and carbs gunked up from old ethanol terrible fuel.
You aren't lying. Those little Phillips head bowl screws will strip out every single time. I just immediately grab the channel locks whenever I encounter them. I just use the channel locks to break them loose.
Great video again James . You had a few challenges but I knew you would iron them all out . I really enjoy your videos and look forward to them weekly. Take care sir and catch you on your next video.
The reason the breaker uses screw terminals is because spade terminals may vibrate off when used on a generator and created a dangerous condition. Just an FYI.
Great video James. Instead of cutting the ring terminals on the Generac wiring would it have been possible to just drill out the spade connectors on the breaker and use the original ring connectors with screws and lock nuts?
I am very very impressed how you tested electronics Danielle put off that Generator most people have no clue and many times Generator not operating properly. Will Gammage motors such as dishwashers and refrigerators even a well pump I am subscribed fan starting today.
It's always the carb! I saved a few hundred hour Gillette Gen-Pro 5k from an electrical service that used it VERY roughly for 15 some years. Carb was like this one, bought a generic off eBay, new starter and battery. Runs like a champ! Spent far more time trying to fix the carb and starter after i got the machine running, than the cost of the parts. 😂
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Excuse me if you spotted this later in the video BUT at 1:03:24 I never saw you swap the outputs from the circuit breaker where you had one of the black wires connected to the red wire and vice versa. Don't know about the USA but we are very particular that the phase wire always goes to a specific connector in the plug and yours won't.
In this case there is not issue. The generator is 240 volt single phase with neutral as the center tap. From neutral (center tap) to either end you get 120 volts. From end to end 240 volts. The red and black wires were the live wires from each of the legs. They are interchangeable. It will just change which 120v legs feed what 120v outlets. The 240 output has two live wires and they are across from each other so swapping their location does not impact the output as the ground and neutral are unchanged.
@@jcondon1 Hmmm I guess you generate 240v a different way to us. In our case the phase always goes to the left hand outlet pin. If it gets swapped, and I have seen it done like this usually from ignorance, the on/off switch on the user device ends up switching the neutral and not the phase. Functionally it all works until there is a fault or somebody starts mucking around with the internals only to find that they have their hands in basically a live device that they thought was off (and they didn't check first which they should have).
Noticed same. And if you rewind the video when this is teared down, there are black& black + red&red. I would open it up, and change them as they were. But i'm from Finland, and we got 230V systems, so it might be different here. Great videos, love to watch you go. 💪
@@chrissybabe8568We make 240v the same way as your country. The difference is we put a center tap in the transformer. The big distinction is that no matter what, the potential between phase and ground from a split phase supply is always 120v instead of 240. If you left the neutral terminal disconnected you could theoretically run a European home with it and not know the difference.
@@chrissybabe8568 We have something called split phase. In this way North American homes can use both 120v and 240v appliances. Polarity (what you are talking about) always matters for 120v wiring, since there is a hot (live) wire and neutral wire. Our 120v outlets have a wide blade (neutral) and a narrow blade (hot) so that plugs only go in one way, and are wired that way for the same reason you said (so the appliance switches the hot, not the neutral).
240v uses both hot legs, which are 120v relative to neutral, but are 240v to each other since they are 180 degrees out of phase. In that case the position doesn't matter, since both wires are hot.
Look up split phase on wikipedia for more info, or watch an excellent Technology Connections video about it.
Great video ! I really love the lack of music, there is just work and peace in your videos. Thanks!
It's been a banner week for my brother and I. 5 lawnmowers that we picked up super cheaper or free. $60 in parts (cheap carbs and cleanout of others.) 4 sold in one day! We have learned so much watching your videos! Thank you.
Nice. Mowers are much easier to sell then generators.
@@jcondon1 Should work out some sort of bulk shipping down here to the Texas Gulf Coast: unreliable power plus hurricanes. No problem selling generators.
Hurrah!
@jcondon1 in some cases, due to not many home owners looking for auxillary power want cords propping doors and windows open. Best choice over standby is the 30 or 50 amp inlet box if generator is outside open in the weather or under a canopy built to keep the majority of rain, snow off of it. Plug in, flip a switch and bring on the loads up to unit rating or 85% . I've have this 8250 w new Generac portable in garage since August 2023, ran it ten minutes..😮 need to break it in... of course, everything hooked up and utility came back on..just like 2003, August 14. My new 7250w ran twenty minutes..then an unwanted person borrowed it.
@@RossReedstrom Rent a uhaul maxi van by James. (Where) My brother is in Killeen, Tx Grand daughter in Weatherford, Tx, daughter in Mesa, Az, sister and niece in Eugene, Or...long time friend in Phillipsburg, NJ, and I'm in Detroit area.. logistics ???
“Hey guys, welcome back-“
Best 4 words of every week!
Five stars plus James. Outstanding work. Don' t know how this Generac achieved such a low THD number...amazing
You say that you are not certified…
You are highly Qualified!! 💯
Seen several certified that are not Qualified🤷🏼♂️
Nice job as always!!!!
Thanks for showing a dual carburetor. Great work, as always.
You always end your videos with, "I hope this video helped someone. Thanks for watching." I grin when I hear it because I have learned so much watching your channel.
Did you notice that almost all the problems in small engines are carburetor related. Should a manufacturer not include how to store them when not in use. Whether to run them totally dry or put something like Stabil in the gas. Maybe every generator should come with a bottle of fuel stabilizer so that owners will use it. Keep up the good work as I enjoy all of your work. Note that most carburetors have a drain plug to empty the bowl. Instead of a drain plug why not a valve. Easy peasy.
I work for a German industrial connector company and Mouser is one of our biggest customers. They are very professional and have an amazing variety of our parts
Mouser is my first stop for every electronic project.
I’ve watched James remove the air box on another Generac and it seems to me that the top two studs should be removed and the bottom screws just loosened. That way, the air box can be lifted straight up. A stuck gasket may prevent this approach but reassembly would be much easier if the two top studs are not fitted until the air box is in place. The slots in the air box for the bottom two screws suggests this was the intended method of assembly.
I second that or another possibility, the bottom screws are way longer than the tops and smooth shaft most of the way. It could be that you start the bottom ones ever so slightly and are able to slide the air box on to them threw the open slots that the bolts go in and then feed the air box over the other two shorter studs pretty easily, then just tight everything up,🤔
just a fyi............those plastic ball joints on the throttle linkage are also used on RC cars so a local hobby store would have them
Good point. My RC car uses them for the steering linkage and they always pop off.
The manufacturers almost never think about fuel filter, that's why when I bought my generator I immediately added a fuel filter myself. Great video and craftsmanship 👍🏼
Most have filter in tank
Looks like someone took a leak in the tank. luckily no smell vision .Nice work
James I had a busy day yesterday. When I finally got some time for myself, I watched this video and enjoyed it immensely. It's such a thrill to watch you take a piece of junk and restore it to working order again.
That carb, although probably different, reminds me of the predator carb. A v-Twin engine is a departure from the norm, so it's always a welcome change to see a different style machine.
Side note: You must have the cleanest tea ball in town.
James you never cease to amaze with your knowledge, analytical mind and patience. I always look forward to your postings.
Cheers from Australia.
Thanks
A very good presentation. A lot of techs would just let the surge be as it turned out. Thanks for following through and completing the job properly.
This video helped someone! My brother-in-law has a John Deere riding lawn mower with that style carb! I had no idea the solenoid needed juice to allow it to run. And neither he nor I knew how to properly clean it. I did a half job, and got it running....but now we can go in with confidence next time.
If the solenoid is mounted vertically, it gathers all of the heavy debris as well as every drop of drying varnished fuel.
The carb in the video mounts the solenoid horizontally, a better design that at least puts it slightly above the lowest point in the system.
I measure the inductance to verify that the solenoid coil is not shorted (which it never is), before repeatedly soaking and trying to spin the needle. If you have time, just do a quick clean of the bowl and put in fresh fuel to soak for a few days before working on it further.
@@1djbecker It's a John Deere 125, iirc it was horizontally mounted. Thanks for the feedback, I appreciate any help! After our "cleaning" (not sure how good a job we did) - I told him use ethanol free fuel and run carb cleaner through it since we had it finally running.
@@hieyeque1 Once the horizontal solenoid valves are moving at all they finish cleaning themselves. The vertical ones can't eject the solids and need to be removed for cleaning, perhaps several times.
Hi Jim: Great job. I have been working on a Kohler lawnmower. Carb is the problem. Cleaned, carb. now working well. I love watching you. Learned much. JP
Job well done,there’s always more work involved than first thought isn’t there, lot of patience needed.
Great video James, a lot of work, a lot of headache ! but at the same time a lot of satisfaction !
Fantastic result, James! Thanks for the ride.
Love Berrymans B12 my father introduced me to it over 60 years ago.
It’s my main cleaner
Great video! I really like you videoing the details. Everyone skips half the details and am lost on what to do. Thank you for making really great videos!
It’s a good thing you have a video to see where all those small parts go back together ! Or it would be a nightmare to put it back together !
(Non professional here) I thought the fuel supply having an uphill battle from the asphalt to the carb inlet was causing the surging... nice catch with the pilot jets. Also, with the testing you do, I realize there's a WHOLE LOT I need to learn about how these outlets are set up and how these things work. Thanks for the video, I learned a lot and enjoyed it in the process!
Great fix, real professional testing also
Quality video and quality work as always!
Always use a grease rag to stuff into any openings to prevent a slip of the fingers becoming a full tare down. Always use a preventable way to stop unnecessary mistakes. Everyone who has ever done some kind of mechanical work has experienced this. Just have a steady pace and you will knock out the problem in so short of time. Love this guy! He is so honest that he couldn't run for public office!😅
The plastic linkage for the governor looks like the ones on my R/C truck. You can get a bag full from any hobby shop. The nylon ones last a good long time. Nice video. I've learned quite a bit.
Absolutely love your content. I have tinkered in small engine repair off and on for 25 years and got really interested in generators when I had a Generac whole home 24kw installed last year to replace a 6500E that just didn't cut the mustard when we were out for 3 days last summer. Watching you troubleshoot and save some of these devices is always a pleasure, and I've even picked up a few tips for getting the most of an older mowers and power washer that might otherwise have been sent to the junk pile.
That is one mean generator!! Great fix. I bought a Vyking Force generator the other day. I've not tested it yet. It's rated at 4KVA. The engine is a 7.5hp unit. Will be interesting to see how good it is.
I fine it amazing that they can sell a $2500 machine built with $10,000 worth of parts.
Cars are exactly the same. They also cost 4x retail if bought in parts.
Pro tip the oil will drain faster if you open the dipstick
It's more work to sell, bill, and ship 1000 different parts than one generator.
Generac Generators are overpriced because they focus on financing there products over years.
Enjoyed thanks
Excellent video James! I appreciate the time you take in explaining your diagnosis and repairs.
Great video! Fantastic work.
large two cylinder GEN.
My generator shipped in box.
The starter cover was damaged
the 220 v recepticle was damaged .
all parts were repaired and works
well B & S engine.... 👍
That oil looked horrendous! I guess 10 years of oxidation and moisture condensing in it and the fuel did a number on it! I think i saw some water come out with the second oil too. Good thing a good mechanic like you got his hands on it!
Another great save. I have bought a lot from various big electronic part suppliers (farnell, mouser, digi-key, etc) and their customer service always have been great. Always helped with missing part or when they delivered component that was just not what was ordered.
You went a long way with changing connectors an those wires, I would have tried drilling M3 or M4 hole into breaker spades. There should be enough meet in them for that. Then just bolt the ring terminated wires with some nuts and bolts with washers.
I also would have the drilled out, for my own use. Heck, for my own use, I'd have expoxied some extra bits to create handles for the OEM part. For something I'm selling, modifying a power safety component would be out of spec. He's using the appropriate connectors for the part as designed, in spec for the rest of the system (which is why he was careful to mention the wire gauge was still in spec for the connectors he used). James is a careful guy. :)
Excellent video, I love how thorough you are. None of this good enough for government work. ;)
Wow Bro. ! You really are amazing. With around $100.00. You manage to get the machine back to its original optimum running condition. The price of the faulty circuit breaker at above $200.00 must be the main reason preventing most from willing to pay to try on getting the machine just to start up. There are many more minor issues to consider too. You are able to source for the same specification of the circuit breaker at $75.00 is also a barrier you have overcome. That is indeed a great cost saving.
Step by step diagnostic by your experience hands are really amazing too.
I spent countless of hours watching your videos on repair and restoration of various types of machine even though I have no knowledge on the mechanic, electrical and electronic of all the machine you are handling. It is like watching a movie to me. The storyline, the plots and the exciting ending. Sometimes it felt like a horror movie when you are working on the run down machine.
Keep it up! Thank you very much.
James, very through as alway with great results.
Saved another generator for use with someone who will need and use it.
I was not surprised by the price of replacement parts as that seems to be the future of repairing equipment.
Keep posting, as always, your post does help use in many ways on other small engine repairs in which you have followed through on troubleshooting.
Tks, Michael
Good patience and awesome you found the hidden pieces under that crazy carb screw
You solve almost all of these but this one dogged you longer with the save of all Generack saves 🎉🎉❤
Thanks for doing a full size generator!
For a while, I thought that the "nasty" spark plug was going to be one of the culprits.That happened to you recently. OTOH, it always amazes to me how "sensitive' those carb designs, parts and "channels" seem to be. Not to mention "old" gas and oil. Thanks for the detailed video and explanations!1
It's always a happy event when I see that you've posted a new video. 😀
I noticed that you plugged the red wire piggy-backed onto the spade connector for the black wire and the black wire piggy-backed onto the connector for the red wire. At the minimum, that will reverse active and neutral on one outlet, which will probably cause horrible issues if the generator is ever earthed.
My attempt to resurrect an old generator is on hold due mainly to my own carelessness. I got some drills and on attempting to drill out the jet, I promptly broke the drill bit inside the jet, leaving it blocked and with no way of unblocking it. So, I have to wait for another new carburettor and a new set of drills before I can make another attempt at fixing the genny.
It won't reverse hot and neutral. The neutral is not connected to the breaker. The black and red are two hots which go to different outlets, so it shouldn't be a problem.
Those are both hot wires. Will just switch which legs down stream. Had to do it because the wire length with the spade connectors was an issue. Should not cause any issue.
@@whitcwa Good to know, thanks. On this side of the world though, I don't think they'd have used black for a hot side at all. They may have used red for one "leg" and red with a white stripe or something like that for the other, but not black. But then again, on this side of the world it's all the one "leg" since we don't use 120V. It's all 240V.
@@jcondon1 Thanks. I got confused because I'm certain that on this side of the world you wouldn't be permitted to use black for a "hot" leg (maybe one leg red and the other leg red with a white or brown stripe or something like that). But then again, we only use 240V so there's probably only a single "leg" in the first place. If the generators are made in the USA then they probably have two legs but with both permanently connected in series.
Nice one Jim. Thanks for going through the two-cylinder engine carb in such detail. I'm working on a similar engine and this was very timely. Keep up the great work!
My gold standard for "it's a fuel problem" is a shot of ether/starting fluid down the carburetor throat. When it pops, it's a carb issue. Just did this for a neighbor's generator, that his FIL had messed with. Got it running, (junk blocking the main jet), but it's still surging. Dear FIL just about destroyed the main jet (rounded off 1/2 the screw slot) and did tear the carburetor gasket - once a new gasket comes in, I think the surging problem will be solved.
This will work 90% of the time but can burn you by masking compression and/or ignition issues. Ether/starting fluid ignites much more easily than gasoline and might run an engine that won’t run (or run properly) on gas.
@@ouch1011 I judge compression on hand feel. It would be harder to diagnose when it's a starter only gen set but you can mostly hear it. Good compression engines are springy, low compression ones turn easier and don't spring back as much.
@@ouch1011 Agreed, I think I'll downgrade it from gold standard to silver then. That leaves gold for what James does, adding fuel directly into the cylinder.
Very nice piece of work, Jim. Your video and sound quality just keep getting better and better. And your troubleshooting skills are an inspiration to all of us home maintenance folks. Thank you.
Another great video Jim! I've fixed several small engine surging issues caused by the pilot system. The last one was a Simpson Power washer that wouldn't run without the choke being engaged. When I took the carb apart it appeared much like your findings on this generator everything looked clean, even the pilot jets. I ran a root canal file through the pilot jet (thanks for the tip by the way), and reassembled the carb. The power washer started on the first pull and has run like a champ ever since! I think the pilot system causes a majority of small engine surging issues due to the very small passages fuel has to travel through. It might appear to be clear, but it doesn't take much of an obstruction to cause a fuel flow problem in the pilot circuit. Keep up the great video work!
OK James, another excellent video. Very methodical with meticulous attention to detail and the steady hands like a surgeon. One thing I would add: Call me lazy if you will, but I will often attempt to save a myself a lot of labor by force feeding the carb either thru the fuel line or a vent or right thru the main discharge orifice backwards into the fuel bowl, a mixture of gasoline with about 100 times as much carb/ fuel injector cleaner as is recommended on the bottle. Then I will let it sit. From a few hours if it ran recently to as long as a week if it's been years. Then I start the engine with spray starting fluid.(my choice is actual starting fluid so it offers a little more volatility because I will be trying to burn the old stale fuel that has some new fuel plus the fuel system cleaner in it.) Once I get it running and usually I can get it to keep running by spraying starting fluid and adding some level of restriction, i.e. Choke plate, then I proceed to run the engine at rated speed and go to full choke. On and off several times. Sometimes I will actually use my fingers to cover the entire inlet to the carb. That is called a P@*%&H tune up. Doing so pulls fuel from everywhere, completely through every path where fuel can move thru, and most of the now loosened/ dissolved dirt and foreign debris will be sucked right thru. It opens up the passages and if it works it can be the end of the repair. I am picky about 3 things: 1). I like starting fluid with actual diethyl ether instead of regualr gasoline derivatives such as butane heptane and propane or alcohol to get the explosive level needed to work with old stale fuel fuel and system detergent. 2). I have always used Gumout Brand carb cleaner because I have found it really works and it's been around for almost 100yrs, And finally 3). I use modern day fuel injection cleaner and fuel system conditioner additive with the patented brand name detergent called Techron. If I can get my customers to put a little bit of Techron into their fuel every so often, especially at the beginning of Lawn mowing or Snow Blowing season, I don't see any repeat issues. One more thing: Couldn't you have glued a piece between the two broken toggles on the circuit breakers? If the breaker was not compromised by the impact that broke the levers, a little JB and a Popsicle stick or piece of plastic would work just fine with less time and materials. OK, carry on and have a good time. ben/ michigan
Thank you, James! It's uncanny that I always come away from your videos with a new bit of helpful info. Take care and keep 'em comin'!!
Excellent job James; To the best of my memory, I did see different size main jets in two cylinder engines, I think they were in certain Briggs models on riding mowers from big box stores.
First time I 've seen an anti-backfire solenoid come apart for cleaning! I had one in a Kawasaki V-twin last weekend that was so varnished up it was shorted out!
The coil is usually 'outside' the sealed fuel chamber to avoid leaks. Varnish won't affect the coil insulation.
An anti-backfire solenoid isn't designed for continuous use. It is activated only briefly as the engine is shut down to close off the main jet. It will draw a significant amount of current as it stores energy in the magnetic field in order to hold for a few seconds as the engine completely halts. You might have interpreted this high current as a short.
The type of fuel shutoff solenoid shown here is a bit different. It operates as people expect -- it only allows fuel to flow when power is applied. It's used with larger electric-start-only engines, as it requires 12V power to allow fuel to flow. You can't fall back to using a pull start with a dead battery.
@@1djbecker All I know is the plunger was rusted solid and not moveable and filled with green varnish. I understand they are separated but couldn’t the wall of the housing broken down due to corrosion exposing the coils causing a short?
@@KensSmallEngineRepair The 'rust' is usually just hard varnish, perhaps filled with rust dust, that comes off to reveal brass. The assembly can pretty convincingly imitate a single piece.
A shop often can't justify the soak time it takes to free the parts, or the risk that it won't come loose. I'll do it because I'm working on family, friends or neighbor's equipment.
The only time I see shorted solenoid coils is when they have been completely toasted. Corrosion usually results in not drawing enough current or an open circuit.
I have never heard you tell what you do for a living but you sure are one hell of a troubleshooter.
Hello James, as usual, an interesting and very informative video. At 30:48 I noticed that you did not put locktite on the two screws on the bottom of the air filter housing. This reminded me of an engine that a customer brought to me and upon opening it we found a carburetor screw that was stuck between the piston and cylinder. Vibration, as you know, is terrible for unscrewing what is not retained and this screw was part of the air filter housing. It's rare that they're inside, but they're dangerous. Thank you for these good videos!
As I watched the video, I was wondering why you didn't address any possible debris in the primary jets (like I've seen you do on many other videos). See, I'm actually paying attention Master!
On my phone, when you blasted carb cleaner thru the 2nd primary, I thought that I saw some dirty cleaner blow out.
Thanks again, I'd love to hang out with you in your shop. Have you ever thought about offering "In person" classes? You are a natural instructor and you always hold my attention (which isn't easy, just ask my old teachers..., oh wait, they're all probably passed away by now!
Another awesome video James! I look forward to getting up and watching your Thursday videos, it's become a good habit. Keep up the great work!
That's a nice unit. Sounds great and that sine wave looks as good (to me) as an inverter gen.
Thx for another great vid, James
Your work with these small engines, generators is wonderfull. Enjoyed the clip and learnt something new, thanks for posting. 🐞
What a joy to see you in "action" ! Thank you!
Thank you James for your thorough review & repair. This machine might have been a floor model with old gas in it? Hence the really low hours.
I personally don’t care for Generac’s unless we are talking the commercial stand by models. However they are all very noisy.
You already know what I’m going to say….if you’re going to buy a roll out generator? Buy a Honda inverter. Hands down a way better, quieter machine that puts out perfect voltage. It puts out steady, clean power. I’ve had mine for 5 years with absolutely zero issues.
Amazing that you prefill the OF! So many people say not to, but why have it dry all that time as it fills…. I really want one of these generators.
Another awesome gen revival. Someone bought it ran it a bit and then it sat for loong time. Carb was in pretty good shape actually. Agree Generac/DR are terrible for parts pricing.
Thank you that was so clear and simple.
Great videos!! I watch them while I work. Helps pass the time.
Thanks James for the video on that carb. I have that same style carb on a Simplicity Broadmoor 22 hp that's crap. I'll take it apart today and go through it thoroughly. Nice generator and someone got a great deal.
This has to be the most intense of all the videos I’ve seen lately by you James !
Every time I watch your videos I learn something new. Great trouble shooting skill development. The oil shocked me, I really didn’t realize how unused oil can break down. Wondering if that’s also true with oil sitting on store shelf in original bottles??
I fixed a XG8000E for a generator repair guy because he stated "I am not good when it comes to electricity". It was brushless and was running way to slow to produce any power. Furthermore someone replaced the GFCI outlets and wired them wrong. These are somewhat a pain to work on as you have to remove a side panel or two and the gas tank to get to anything, had to reset the governor. All this being said I was impressed with how quiet they run and how heavy they are for only an 8000 watt unit. It appears to weigh quite a bit more than my Duromax XP12000EH. The THD being so low is impressive for a non-inverter generator.
Bad THD comes from a bad magnetic design and high resistance wires. The magnetic cores are not well made and are literally ringing while in use and that ringing at different frequencies distorts the main sinewave. Sometimes the AVR is to blame too, because it's made with low quality parts and is not specifically designed for the exact rotor/stator combination.
Generac did a very good job on their brushless generators. Like it was said in last reply the quality of the steel used in the rotor and stator laminations has to be just right. Generac knows how to do this and eliminate the AVR which does not help with THD. The capacitor used in the brushless models must be high quality also. THD on an XG8000e is 5% or less at all loads.
That twin engine really does run nice
Haven't read down through the comments yet, but the oscilloscope doesn't show up outside! 😮 Nice work on the changing out of the circuit breaker!
Wow, they truly make working and removing that carborator a bit of a pain! Nicely done! Cheers
Beautiful as always. For future reference there exist little metal angle parts that accept a spade terminal and offer a screw. These may have worked well here.
That washer holding the pilot jets is a very unusual fastener, but I don't think it is proprietary. I actually have the tool to remove those. I found it in my grandfather's shop when he passed away. I wasn't sure what it was used for, but I am glad I kept it. It is just like a normal screwdriver, but with that notch cut out in the middle. You could easily make one out of a regular flathead screwdriver.
Nikki carbs used in Briggs v-twins do have different sized main jets. It's because the intake manifolds are different lengths to each cylinder. I don't know the specifics about the sizes, just that the differences exist in those engines.
I recall on one of my older snowmobiles there were slightly different jet sizes from one side to the other. If I recall it had to do with how cooling air flowed and one cylinder ran hotter. I guess this was their way of controlling that at the time. Not surprised here that they are the same size which as you said makes sense.
Makes sense. Usually you would want to send more fuel to a cylinder that runs hotter to help it stay cool.
55:49 I would have put the link pin in from the top and the clip on the bottom. If the clip somehow falls off, the pin has gravity to help it stay in place.
Another great video. I watch them all even though I only have two generators. Lots of useful tips for all small engine work. 👍
It was an e-clip on both ends :(
@@jcondon1 So much for my 'eagle eyes' 😅
@@Ed_Stuckey it was a good idea
I'm glad to see that you pre-fill your oil filters prior to installation. I also recommend using a "Filter Mag" on any spin-on oil filter. Great job.
A habit I got into years ago is taking pictures. If I am working on a machine that I am not familiar with, I will take pictures before I begin disassembly, so that I have something to fall back on if I can't remember how something went together. It has saved me a lot of trouble numerous times.
At 42:12, the broken breaker had the two black wires on one terminal, and the two red wires on the other, and later you zip tied those pairs together. But at 53:56 you have a black/red on one terminal, and a black/red on the other? Shouldn't matter since it just means that whatever is down stream will have the phases swapped, but someone coming in behind you might wonder what's going on. Also, it looks like the generator has some little LEDs that shine on the outlets when it's running? That's a nice touch.
Yup, I saw the same thing and was yelling at Jim but he didn't hear me.
Yes this, I was pointing and saying as if I could be heard.
Correction: That swap very much could matter -- it nearly killed me once. Someone else had swapped neutral and hot, and I didn't know it.
Specifics: I felt lots of current flowing through my arm and chest, where it found an excellent ground. I only survived by using my back muscles to pull my whole body away and break the circuit.
I saw this too. Maybe he corrected it before putting it all together.
@@PeterLawton Both wires are hot on the 240 volt circuit.
Nice job James , runs like a new one😮
Very nice repair and an awesome genny with a nice clean sine wave, looks like you can run electronics with that one it’s so smooth!
I'm a Honda man but that Generac impressed me!!!!
It really is an impressive design.
Hear Hear! Most of my neighbours call me an idiot for spending the money on a honda invertor for my house. I pretend to be hurt as I sip my hot coffee after having a warm shower during the power outages :) I really wish they were more frequent!
@@TheBry_Guy The bad thing about the inverter generators is that the inverter is potted and is unrepairable when it fails. And they do fail because of age - they have electrolytic caps that degrade in a few years after which the semiconductors have to deal with worse and worse spikes which at some point kills them. Sadly, they and maybe offline UPS are the only options for sensitive electronic equipment...
At that point, I’ll be on a battery backup system and just using a non inverter generator to pump energy into the battery bank
@@TheOriginalEviltech Yes and the Honda ones are horribly expensive. I have a Champion suitcase generator, they're not known for blowing inverter boards, but even if that does happen, they're like just a little over $300, and the Champion's are less than 1/2 the price of Honda EU2000's. Plus the Champion I have I run it on propane, so I don't have to deal with stale fuel, and carbs gunked up from old ethanol terrible fuel.
You aren't lying. Those little Phillips head bowl screws will strip out every single time. I just immediately grab the channel locks whenever I encounter them. I just use the channel locks to break them loose.
Nice work.
Helped me to know where the primary jets were for sure. Nice video James
Nice machine. You said "double nut it".....Mustie 1 is snickering right now.😅😅😅Happy Thursday.
Mustie is a creepy old man
Great video again James . You had a few challenges but I knew you would iron them all out . I really enjoy your videos and look forward to them weekly. Take care sir and catch you on your next video.
The reason the breaker uses screw terminals is because spade terminals may vibrate off when used on a generator and created a dangerous condition. Just an FYI.
Great video James. Instead of cutting the ring terminals on the Generac wiring would it have been possible to just drill out the spade connectors on the breaker and use the original ring connectors with screws and lock nuts?
"It should run...that said, it doesn't run".. laughed so loudly at that my girlfrend came in from the kitchen and asked what was so funny.
Beautiful job, I absolutely love watching work your magic.
Have used Mouser for many years. Very good place if you build electronic stuff.
Great video my friend.
This video hasn't helped me one bit... But man it was bloody amazing to watch :) Well done!
This carb setup reminds me of the GCV 160 that I was working on this morning. You need about 8 hands and a lot of patience, lol.
Yes those are always a challenge
I am very very impressed how you tested electronics Danielle put off that Generator most people have no clue and many times Generator not operating properly. Will Gammage motors such as dishwashers and refrigerators even a well pump I am subscribed fan starting today.
It's always the carb! I saved a few hundred hour Gillette Gen-Pro 5k from an electrical service that used it VERY roughly for 15 some years. Carb was like this one, bought a generic off eBay, new starter and battery. Runs like a champ! Spent far more time trying to fix the carb and starter after i got the machine running, than the cost of the parts. 😂
Disappointed you missed those jets James! 😅 thanks for another great video.