Excellent Intel that no one else is covering. I did notice that the Yankee Marshall showed a video on how to fix light primer strikes. Within it he stated that adjusting the screw will resolve the issue 90% of the time. You deserve a double thumbs up 👍 👍 for this video content. I noticed that you also took the time to print out the results in large print. Nicely ✅
A simple and super cheap way to extend the mainspring screw is to take a fired primer (small pistol or rifle), remove the anvil, and then put the cup onto the end of the screw between the mainspring and the frame.
Thanks for putting this video together. I just put a reduced main in my 686 deluxe. It was awesome. However, after a few trigger pulls I starting thinking that there is no way I’m not getting light primer strikes at the range. A quick check of TH-cam and I came across this video, what a lifesaver! Thanks Bud!
TK Custom sells one of their trigger kits with a replacement screw that has no head (yes, basically a stainless set screw). When you screw that into the frame, it is completely recessed by the time the gun doesn't exhibit light strikes. However, screws can stick out from the frame some and not interfere with most grips that I've tried. I also reload with Federal primers - known to be softer than others.
THANKS for the video! I am going through the same issues with my 686 and the Wolff reduced power spring kit also. With the 686’s OEM Mainspring Strain Screw, like you, I had light primer strikes. With a 0.040” longer screw, from a Performance Center TRR8 (which appears to come from S&W with a Wolff), it was fine. I will be buying some set screws to resolve the issue, as you did. In your case, what I thought was very odd, you had light primer strikes with a trigger pull of 5.9 lbs, but did not at 5.15 lbs. I am thinking that your trigger pull gauge is not working properly. Normally, you would expect that as the trigger pull weight goes down, the light primer strike frequency would go up. That was definitely the case with my 2 revolvers. BTW, S&W will sell you a TRR8 Strain Screw (part number 382 160 000) for $2.00, plus $3.00 shipping. However, I am guessing that you would likely need to shorten it, given that both my 686 and TRR8 screws are identical except in length. I am assuming they both started off the same length (either 0.400 or 0.500”) from the screw supplier, and were filed down to suit by S&W.
Good video...good detailed information. Just one point to mention...The strain screw for the square butt frame is slightly longer than one for the round butt frame in your video. The longer factory screw would probably accomplish what you did with the set screw from the hardware store.
Great!! I was planning on just switching between the different springs but this way is much more scientific-repeatable, I was having light primer strikes intermittently on some Bosnian primers(reloading) and thought I'd not be able to use them at all.
I hope that Wolff watches this video and starts to make their hammer springs flat where they contact/engage the tension screw, don't stamp the stiffener rib/groove all the way down that far to the bottom? That would solve the problem along with an aftermarket heavier beefier target hammer. This set screw idea is a really good one and thanks so much to TheGoatMumbler for the video!
I have learned that it is almost always better to go with a Wolff standard power spring because of the power rib. Keeps reliability while the bossed main spring results in more consistent trigger pull throughout the motion of the trigger. Polishing the rebound can also help along with polishing the inside where the trigger rebound spring goes. A slightly lighter trigger rebound spring is okay to use but don't go too light. Correcting drag of either the trigger, hammer, or both using trigger and hammer shims can also significantly improve the smoothness of the action.
J frames need a heavier hammer spring I suspect to cure light primer strikes with the Wolff 8 lb. hammer spring kits. Had the issue after I installed the reduced power j frame kit. I have the hammer springs on order. 8.5 or 9 lb. should fix this.
So, what is the trigger weight pull before and after installed the spring kit ? if not mention then it is the same, so why we installed the new spring kit for ? just to void the warranty ?
Your data shows you originally had a 95% failure to ignite primer with a 5.9 pound trigger pull, but you have a 0% failure with a lighter 5.15 pound pull. Could you please explain how the lighter trigger pull yields 100% success over the heaver?
I just ordered some strain screws for a square butt. They look identical just the non threaded protrusion is about .100 longer. I figure just file to fit. Probably use a set screw like you did to figure the appropriate length then make the official strain screw fit. Wish me luck...
One causes of light primer strike is the piring pin is too short. Why the 1911 and Glock with a 3.5lb trigger pull didn’t misfire. What’s the difference?
Installed the Wilson spring and did my measurements. With original strain screw I get 7.5lbs. (gap at top 0.1"). Went to the range for testing and 2/100 FTF (Whitebox/UMC). Extended firing pin is next
Anyone try this Wolff mainspring with an aftermarket grip like a KN with the screw through the frame instead of the stirrup? Do Wolff reduced power mainsprings occupy the original area of the factory mainspring?
You would think all these parts would be thoroughly tested to do what they are say it will do. I personally detest a company that advertise a product that doesn't do exactly as it says it does.
Wolff warns on their site that the reduced power mainspring is for target and range use only, and offers a standard strength mainspring but with the Power Rib for defensive use.
I found the SS set screws at Home Depot, but I’ve been too lazy to install them. I carry my S&W 686 revolvers for self defense, so ignition is crucial. Thanks for the tip! 👍👍👍👍
It's working great with this Wolff mainspring. Smooth and consistent and no light primer strikes. Much smoother than my stock "Performance Center" 929. It needs work. :(
I can understand the encouragement to leave the gun stock, most of my guns are, but I gotta say, my M66 combat magnum came out of the box with one of the most absolutely godawful trigger pulls I've ever felt in my life.
The stock S&W mainspring is a real pain in the arse to shoot. They make them hard to pull for liability reasons only so they don't get sued. I have done trigger and spring jobs to every S&W that I own. They shoot like a dream afterwards, but it's harder to get these newer models lined out after that British company owned S&W and screwed up the quality to make the lawyers happy.
Oh My God man, 4 minutes into a 12 minute video and the only thing you actually did was pick up a round and show a light primer strike. Is this supposed to teach me something??????????? If anything it teaches me how NOT to produce content
An old gunsmith told me years ago to place a spent small pistol primer on the end of the screw then install it. Works great.
I vaguely remember hearing this tip years ago, thanks for reminding me of it.
This is such a simple fix but I can honestly say I would have never thought of it. Had the exact same problem and this fixed it. My sincere thanks.
Excellent Intel that no one else is covering. I did notice that the Yankee Marshall showed a video on how to fix light primer strikes. Within it he stated that adjusting the screw will resolve the issue 90% of the time. You deserve a double thumbs up 👍 👍 for this video content. I noticed that you also took the time to print out the results in large print. Nicely ✅
A simple and super cheap way to extend the mainspring screw is to take a fired primer (small pistol or rifle), remove the anvil, and then put the cup onto the end of the screw between the mainspring and the frame.
Excellent video, you were very informative, spoke slowly enough to keep up with. And information was very much appreciated
Misfires after a short time with the spring I'm going to use your solution ,Thanks for the effort, thanks for the video, greetings from Germany
Thanks for putting this video together. I just put a reduced main in my 686 deluxe. It was awesome. However, after a few trigger pulls I starting thinking that there is no way I’m not getting light primer strikes at the range. A quick check of TH-cam and I came across this video, what a lifesaver! Thanks Bud!
This is a terrific video! I just bought a Wolff spring for my S&W Model 66-8 which feels like it has a 20 lb trigger pull!!!
TK Custom sells one of their trigger kits with a replacement screw that has no head (yes, basically a stainless set screw). When you screw that into the frame, it is completely recessed by the time the gun doesn't exhibit light strikes. However, screws can stick out from the frame some and not interfere with most grips that I've tried.
I also reload with Federal primers - known to be softer than others.
Hi. I just bought that TK kit but no grub screw. However; they include an “extended” firing pin so I’m thinking that may help? Thanks… Gene
That is a well done diagnostic and operational analysis! Great job 👏
Good information and very relevant for me as I was experiencing the same thing. Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge!
Thanks for posting this! I just bought a model 66 combat magnum with a 2.75in barrel. It has a gawd awful trigger. This will give me a place to start.
THANKS for the video! I am going through the same issues with my 686 and the Wolff reduced power spring kit also. With the 686’s OEM Mainspring Strain Screw, like you, I had light primer strikes. With a 0.040” longer screw, from a Performance Center TRR8 (which appears to come from S&W with a Wolff), it was fine. I will be buying some set screws to resolve the issue, as you did. In your case, what I thought was very odd, you had light primer strikes with a trigger pull of 5.9 lbs, but did not at 5.15 lbs. I am thinking that your trigger pull gauge is not working properly. Normally, you would expect that as the trigger pull weight goes down, the light primer strike frequency would go up. That was definitely the case with my 2 revolvers. BTW, S&W will sell you a TRR8 Strain Screw (part number 382 160 000) for $2.00, plus $3.00 shipping. However, I am guessing that you would likely need to shorten it, given that both my 686 and TRR8 screws are identical except in length. I am assuming they both started off the same length (either 0.400 or 0.500”) from the screw supplier, and were filed down to suit by S&W.
Good video...good detailed information. Just one point to mention...The strain screw for the square butt frame is slightly longer than one for the round butt frame in your video. The longer factory screw would probably accomplish what you did with the set screw from the hardware store.
Did you trim the excess off the set screw so it was not protruding out of the frame?
Great!! I was planning on just switching between the different springs but this way is much more scientific-repeatable, I was having light primer strikes intermittently on some Bosnian primers(reloading) and thought I'd not be able to use them at all.
I hope that Wolff watches this video and starts to make their hammer springs flat where they contact/engage the tension screw, don't stamp the stiffener rib/groove all the way down that far to the bottom? That would solve the problem along with an aftermarket heavier beefier target hammer. This set screw idea is a really good one and thanks so much to TheGoatMumbler for the video!
I have learned that it is almost always better to go with a Wolff standard power spring because of the power rib. Keeps reliability while the bossed main spring results in more consistent trigger pull throughout the motion of the trigger. Polishing the rebound can also help along with polishing the inside where the trigger rebound spring goes. A slightly lighter trigger rebound spring is okay to use but don't go too light. Correcting drag of either the trigger, hammer, or both using trigger and hammer shims can also significantly improve the smoothness of the action.
I went thru this same crap with other revolvers as well. Now I just leave the original factory hammer spring and change the rebound spring.
That was excellent research and "repair".👍🏼
J frames need a heavier hammer spring I suspect to cure light primer strikes with the Wolff 8 lb. hammer spring kits. Had the issue after I installed the reduced power j frame kit. I have the hammer springs on order. 8.5 or 9 lb. should fix this.
I notice that the set screw still projects out the front of the frame grip. Does this interfere with the grips?
So, what is the trigger weight pull before and after installed the spring kit ? if not mention then it is the same, so why we installed the new spring kit for ? just to void the warranty ?
Your data shows you originally had a 95% failure to ignite primer with a 5.9 pound trigger pull, but you have a 0% failure with a lighter 5.15 pound pull. Could you please explain how the lighter trigger pull yields 100% success over the heaver?
I was thinking the same thing...
I just ordered some strain screws for a square butt. They look identical just the non threaded protrusion is about .100 longer. I figure just file to fit. Probably use a set screw like you did to figure the appropriate length then make the official strain screw fit. Wish me luck...
How did the screws you ordered end up working for ya?
@lj.7311 they worked perfect. It was exactly what I needed to fix the light strikes. Thanks
One causes of light primer strike is the piring pin is too short. Why the 1911 and Glock with a 3.5lb trigger pull didn’t misfire. What’s the difference?
Most excellent video! Thank you.
A good local hardware is an invaluable source to us shade-tree smiths ;)
Wolff does sell an extended main spring screw to address this same issue. Just call them.
Now you need to shorten the set screw by the amount of its protrusion above the grip frame.... you can also test fire it w/o the grips at the range
Y
I have a Wilson Combat kit on order. Will be interesting to see if I have the same issue.
Installed the Wilson spring and did my measurements. With original strain screw I get 7.5lbs. (gap at top 0.1"). Went to the range for testing and 2/100 FTF (Whitebox/UMC). Extended firing pin is next
Jeffperry, how did it go with Wilson-experiment?
No issues.
Awesome job mate fixed it for 41 cents let’s meet a gun smith that would charge that to fix the problem ...
Anyone try this Wolff mainspring with an aftermarket grip like a KN with the screw through the frame instead of the stirrup? Do Wolff reduced power mainsprings occupy the original area of the factory mainspring?
Yes. The Wolff springs fits just like a factory spring.
excellent! Elliots? :)
Good video, thank you!
Excellent. Thank you.
You would think all these parts would be thoroughly tested to do what they are say it will do. I personally detest a company that advertise a product that doesn't do exactly as it says it does.
Wolff warns on their site that the reduced power mainspring is for target and range use only, and offers a standard strength mainspring but with the Power Rib for defensive use.
I found the SS set screws at Home Depot, but I’ve been too lazy to install them. I carry my S&W 686 revolvers for self defense, so ignition is crucial. Thanks for the tip! 👍👍👍👍
Excellent info.
it only cost me 45$ to get my trigger fixed on s&w 462 gun
Why not just use the factory main spring with the Wolff rebound spring. It will be more reliable
Super.....
Your Spring tensioner screw is too short. It has been ground down too much.
For the love of god, put the stock sw mainspring back in gun.
It's working great with this Wolff mainspring. Smooth and consistent and no light primer strikes. Much smoother than my stock "Performance Center" 929. It needs work. :(
I can understand the encouragement to leave the gun stock, most of my guns are, but I gotta say, my M66 combat magnum came out of the box with one of the most absolutely godawful trigger pulls I've ever felt in my life.
The stock S&W mainspring is a real pain in the arse to shoot. They make them hard to pull for liability reasons only so they don't get sued. I have done trigger and spring jobs to every S&W that I own. They shoot like a dream afterwards, but it's harder to get these newer models lined out after that British company owned S&W and screwed up the quality to make the lawyers happy.
Oh My God man, 4 minutes into a 12 minute video and the only thing you actually did was pick up a round and show a light primer strike. Is this supposed to teach me something??????????? If anything it teaches me how NOT to produce content
My goodness you ramble and ramble and say nothing!!
Show nothing and waste time.