You forgot to mention how to loosen the lower left bolt of the intake manifold near the thermostat housing: check on forums for the tools needed for this bolt. Always replace the intake gasket with a new one, same for the throttle body gasket, really no other way. $15 at the Volvo dealer, you will need to chop off a corner to pass it over the lower bolt near the thermostat housing. The torque on the intake paper gasket is very low, 20Nm (15 ft.lb). By the way, the PCV box can be empty of any sludge and still go bad - the diaphragm will break inside after about 10 years. When you order the PCV box triple check the engine serial number (not same as the VIN number) because there are two models of PCV box for the non turbo engine : each has a different size of the upper hose that goes onto the engine block. Make sure NOT to use 'worm' (screw) clamps, use only Oeticker clamps that you can tighten with a cutter for example: do not use a regular hardware store clamp or it will start leaking and guess what? Time to do the job again. Don't forget to clean pristine the injector seals and seats and grease with a little Vaseline.
Thanks sooooo much man! I recently bought a 2003 volvo S60 and as soon as I drove the car off the dealership the noise started and I was freaking out and went bananas trying to diagnose the noise. One thing for sure I knew it was an air vacuum related issue but I would have never known that was the oil trap box. Thanks againg!!
The PCV valve should be changed, in general, in all cars, to 30000/50000 km. It is important to change that piece because they become clogged or damaged. If it does not work well, the oil gases tend to run out of the engine seals. In the Volvos, they should be changed between 80000 and 150000 km, depending on the case. I already changed that piece in two Volvos. In the first one, an S40 T5 was changed to 120000. In my current one, a Volvo S60 T6, I changed it to 80000 km. It is relatively easy to change it in the Volvo S60 T6, especially because of its location (above the engine). Although there are some screws that take a lot of work out and then screw them. I recommend changing that part so that the engine stays clean and in good condition.
Not sure if you mentioned, but by all means get a hose and blow some air into the lower port on the engine block: you should hear the oil bubbling inside the oil pan, or the oil pan passage is blocked.
Tip: Don't use worm (screw) type clamps. These loosen with engine vibrations and will cause oil leaks and lost of vacuum. Happened to me after I did this video. Clean well all oil off the metal nipple on the block so the new hose stays tight over their block metal nipple, then use the oeticker clamps and tighten them tight either with the tool or with some straight or oblique cutter. PCV job it is also a good moment to replace the thermostat since it's at least 10 years old and most surely it starts getting stuck open by now even if the temp gauge is at 12, see this video how to test it th-cam.com/video/gQxQnuU22Ow/w-d-xo.html
I have had worm type clamps on cars for over 40 years and haven't had a problem yet. Just be careful not to over tighten them or you can damage the hose.
+P Locklin, Please correct your title so others can find it easily. Its "Volvo", not "Vovlo". I have had several Volvo's & it's nice to know that these still have an aluminum intake manifold. However, most newer vehicles have a plastic plenum/intake manifold. And, after a while, the rubber gaskets start to shrink up & cause air leaks.
+P Locklin, That upper breather hose should be replaced as well. Generally, when they get hard, they're full of restricted oil sludge. P.S. - Between 05:17 - 05:31; Does anyone else hear chickens?
Thank you very much! my 2001 s60 has the exact same promblem. I took months trying to figure out where the sound was comming from i even changed the power steering pump and the idler pulley and i still have the same problem. You said when it makes that noise is a bad gasket inside the oil trap so a good cleaning won't fix it? Will i have to buy a new oil trap?
Love the K&N air filter...btw, how hard is it to change out the whole pcv system (breather box and hoses)? I have an '04 XC70 (2.5T) and I'm sick of having issues with the damn pcv...I'm willing to dare to do it on my own to save money
you said “there’s one that doesn’t have a hose” what is the hose for? we have bought 3 different ones that we thought was the correct part but the mechanic says it’s not
my V70 has 299K miles on it. I'm in the mode of not spending any more on repairs as it will be replaced soon. What would happen if i just left the dipstick up a bit to release the vacuum?
+Eric Lane - You can do that but it will idle rough and want to die when coming to a stop. If you drive it with the noise it will trash the bushings on your overhead cam and cause oil leaks.
I have the same issue with my Volvo s80. Do you know what the repair will run at a repair shop. Also do you have the recall information that you mentioned early on in video. Thanks a million.
If you do it yourself the part is either $50 or $100 depending on the serial number of your engine. If you have it done at a shop they will mark up the part and probable charge about $500 for labor. I would say $600 would be a fair price for parts and labor. A Volvo dealership would probably charge about $1500.
The crankcase is vented through the oil trap. If the trap gets obstructed pressure or vacuum builds up inside the crankcase. The noise you hear is air being forced through the camshaft and crankshaft bearings. This is bad because lubrication is being forced out of the bearings causing excessive wear. If you don't fix it you will get oil leaks and ruin the engine.
I had this same problem on my S40 which has been fixed by the dealer, the noise is gone but, now all of a sudden when I came to a stop light my car died, I had to turn it off and then back on, it started running again (no battery issues)...... What could be possibly wrong with my car now??
As Jav says, if it is idling rough I would check for a loose vacuum hose. If not I would hook up a code reader and see if any faults have been detected. If you don't have a code reader most auto parts stores will read the codes for free. I had a fuel pressure sensor go bad on mine. It is mounted on the end of the fuel rail. I would notice a loss of power on the highway and when I came to a stop the engine would not idle and died. I started back up and it ran again. This problem caused the Check Engine light to come on with a low fuel pressure code.
It is excessive vacuum. The noise you hear is air sucking through the bearings from the outside of the engine. You can take the oil fill cap off and hold a rubber glove over the hole to see if you have vacuumed or pressure.
I can't get the screw closest to the thermostat housing off because it hits the housing before it comes out completely. Did you cut a slot in the gasket for this screw or did you have to remove the thermostat housing?
I think I used a shallow socket and ground it down shallower. I did not take it all the way off. Then I cut the edge of the gasket to get it on the screw. That part of the gasket does not seal anything. @@VNAV_PTH
I really need help with my Volvo. Please comment back. I have the exact same car, making the exact same sound but I have a broken dipstick and another broken part but I don’t know what the part is called. I saw it in your video and I was wondering if you knew what it is
Are you talking about the crankcase breather hose? www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fguide.alibaba.com%2Fshop%2Fokay-motor-pcv-hose-crankcase-breather-hose-for-volvo-s40-s60-v50-v60-xc60-xc70_1012909846.html&psig=AOvVaw2_ZWPHEvwnYsp9KvTYjsrE&ust=1587841712574000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=0CAMQjB1qFwoTCJCy18LhgekCFQAAAAAdAAAAABAD
You can hear it sucking when you pull the dip stick. Relieving the suction (or pressure) will stop the noise.) If you remove the oil fill cap and smoke comes out while it is running then the oil trap is probably full of sludge. either way it needs to be replaced.
Thanks man you just saved me hours of work cause other D**k heads have been telling me i had to remove half the engine to replace it, mine is clogged up and blowing smoke from the dipstick so could you tell me if i can just clean it out or does it really need replaced
If it is only oil maybe, but if it has deposits in it probably not. It does not come apart so the only way would be maybe blow compressed air into one side of it.
+Russell Hearn I would just replace. No way I would put all that time into pulling it and have to do it again to save $100. Being a shade tree mechanic, it would probably take double the time an experienced mechanic would need for the job. I would figure 2 half days.
I was surprised at how easy this repair was, it only took a couple of hours. However I agree with you. I like to save money but I am also lazy and don't like doing the same work over if I don't have to. I also realize if you don't have the money your labor is cheap. You do what you gotta do to keep your car running.
Karl Boonzaaijer they're all tied bolts. best to remove thermostat housing as well, you really want to replace the intake manifold gasket and any others you unseal
That is interesting. My 2003 also a non turbo, had the whistle noise, but I was getting positive pressure on the dipstick plus fumes going out of it, plus positive pressure at the oil filler (using a glove). The noise would also go away when untwisting the oil cap or removing the dipstick. The PCV box was empty but the diaphragm was broken. With the new PCV box, I get negative pressure at the oil filler (the glove gets strongly sucked in) and no more fumes by the dipstick and the noise is gone. Also see my video th-cam.com/video/3fEjbMpVSfo/w-d-xo.html
Yes, if you watch the video I explain there are two different faults that can happen with the oil trap box. It is normal to have some vacuum but too much will cause the noise and ruin your engine. Pressure and smoke blowing out the top of your engine is the same problem in reverse. Regardless of how the oil trap failed, it will have one of these two symptoms and must be replaced to avoid trashing your engine.
Wonderful. Worked a treat to stop the whistle that had been there for years and stopped the erratic idling too. Many thanks
You forgot to mention how to loosen the lower left bolt of the intake manifold near the thermostat housing: check on forums for the tools needed for this bolt. Always replace the intake gasket with a new one, same for the throttle body gasket, really no other way. $15 at the Volvo dealer, you will need to chop off a corner to pass it over the lower bolt near the thermostat housing. The torque on the intake paper gasket is very low, 20Nm (15 ft.lb). By the way, the PCV box can be empty of any sludge and still go bad - the diaphragm will break inside after about 10 years. When you order the PCV box triple check the engine serial number (not same as the VIN number) because there are two models of PCV box for the non turbo engine : each has a different size of the upper hose that goes onto the engine block. Make sure NOT to use 'worm' (screw) clamps, use only Oeticker clamps that you can tighten with a cutter for example: do not use a regular hardware store clamp or it will start leaking and guess what? Time to do the job again. Don't forget to clean pristine the injector seals and seats and grease with a little Vaseline.
Thanks sooooo much man! I recently bought a 2003 volvo S60 and as soon as I drove the car off the dealership the noise started and I was freaking out and went bananas trying to diagnose the noise. One thing for sure I knew it was an air vacuum related issue but I would have never known that was the oil trap box. Thanks againg!!
2003 also did you fix yourself? If so how lond did it take...
Same here! Just spend our vacancy money on it
Hey next time show us how you removed the oil trap
Well done sir, clear spoken words and to the point !! Thank you. Jeff
The PCV valve should be changed, in general, in all cars, to 30000/50000 km. It is important to change that piece because they become clogged or damaged. If it does not work well, the oil gases tend to run out of the engine seals. In the Volvos, they should be changed between 80000 and 150000 km, depending on the case. I already changed that piece in two Volvos. In the first one, an S40 T5 was changed to 120000. In my current one, a Volvo S60 T6, I changed it to 80000 km. It is relatively easy to change it in the Volvo S60 T6, especially because of its location (above the engine). Although there are some screws that take a lot of work out and then screw them. I recommend changing that part so that the engine stays clean and in good condition.
bro thank you so much this noise is so annoying this will take me a few hours but o god thank you
Great video on the Volvo PCV system. Thank you
Not sure if you mentioned, but by all means get a hose and blow some air into the lower port on the engine block: you should hear the oil bubbling inside the oil pan, or the oil pan passage is blocked.
Not a bad idea if you engine is stopped up with sludge.
Yes, there are chickens clucking in the background.
Great Video!! Thank you
Thanks for the vid! Our 01 v70 has the hissing and vacuum issue.
Tip: Don't use worm (screw) type clamps. These loosen with engine vibrations and will cause oil leaks and lost of vacuum. Happened to me after I did this video. Clean well all oil off the metal nipple on the block so the new hose stays tight over their block metal nipple, then use the oeticker clamps and tighten them tight either with the tool or with some straight or oblique cutter.
PCV job it is also a good moment to replace the thermostat since it's at least 10 years old and most surely it starts getting stuck open by now even if the temp gauge is at 12, see this video how to test it th-cam.com/video/gQxQnuU22Ow/w-d-xo.html
I have had worm type clamps on cars for over 40 years and haven't had a problem yet. Just be careful not to over tighten them or you can damage the hose.
Excellent video. Thank you for sharing. I will be doing my xc90 2006 soon.
Turbo models are less prone to this. The best antidote - like any car - is twice a year or more oil changes...
if you ahve to change oil twice or more a year then your engine is shit
+P Locklin, Please correct your title so others can find it easily. Its "Volvo", not "Vovlo". I have had several Volvo's & it's nice to know that these still have an aluminum intake manifold. However, most newer vehicles have a plastic plenum/intake manifold. And, after a while, the rubber gaskets start to shrink up & cause air leaks.
+Gordon302 - Thanks
Very helpful video thank you so much!!
great video, sounds just like my mom is coming home!!!
Thank you very much for your video that's helpful tips!
+P Locklin, That upper breather hose should be replaced as well. Generally, when they get hard, they're full of restricted oil sludge. P.S. - Between 05:17 - 05:31; Does anyone else hear chickens?
Great video, thanks!
Thank you very much! my 2001 s60 has the exact same promblem. I took months trying to figure out where the sound was comming from i even changed the power steering pump and the idler pulley and i still have the same problem. You said when it makes that noise is a bad gasket inside the oil trap so a good cleaning won't fix it? Will i have to buy a new oil trap?
Love the K&N air filter...btw, how hard is it to change out the whole pcv system (breather box and hoses)? I have an '04 XC70 (2.5T) and I'm sick of having issues with the damn pcv...I'm willing to dare to do it on my own to save money
This video is on a Non-Turbo engine. Yours (2.5T) is a turbo and the oil trap is in a different place.
you said “there’s one that doesn’t have a hose” what is the hose for? we have bought 3 different ones that we thought was the correct part but the mechanic says it’s not
I have this issue on my 2009 c30 t5, i would rather just buy a part and do it myself but i dont know if its any similar.
How did you get such a clean oil trap? Can you run kerosene thru the oil trap instead of doing all the disassembly & replacing it?
I put a new one on.
I didn't try to clean it but it seems you would have to take it off
thanks!
my V70 has 299K miles on it. I'm in the mode of not spending any more on repairs as it will be replaced soon. What would happen if i just left the dipstick up a bit to release the vacuum?
+Eric Lane - You can do that but it will idle rough and want to die when coming to a stop. If you drive it with the noise it will trash the bushings on your overhead cam and cause oil leaks.
VOLVO v70 170hp 2.4 b5244s engine type brain set as VOLVO s60 140 hp 2.4 b244s2 brain set
Thx from brasil!
I have the same issue with my Volvo s80. Do you know what the repair will run at a repair shop. Also do you have the recall information that you mentioned early on in video. Thanks a million.
If you do it yourself the part is either $50 or $100 depending on the serial number of your engine.
If you have it done at a shop they will mark up the part and probable charge about $500 for labor. I would say $600 would be a fair price for parts and labor.
A Volvo dealership would probably charge about $1500.
Ok thanks for feedback
How the pcv oil trap can cause this noise ?
The crankcase is vented through the oil trap. If the trap gets obstructed pressure or vacuum builds up inside the crankcase. The noise you hear is air being forced through the camshaft and crankshaft bearings.
This is bad because lubrication is being forced out of the bearings causing excessive wear. If you don't fix it you will get oil leaks and ruin the engine.
The crankcase is vented through the oil trap if trap gets obstructed pressure or vucuum builds up
I had this same problem on my S40 which has been fixed by the dealer, the noise is gone but, now all of a sudden when I came to a stop light my car died, I had to turn it off and then back on, it started running again (no battery issues)...... What could be possibly wrong with my car now??
Feel around for a vac leak somewhere. Also is the car idling right? The dealer might have forgot to seal something right or something could be loose.
As Jav says, if it is idling rough I would check for a loose vacuum hose. If not I would hook up a code reader and see if any faults have been detected. If you don't have a code reader most auto parts stores will read the codes for free.
I had a fuel pressure sensor go bad on mine. It is mounted on the end of the fuel rail. I would notice a loss of power on the highway and when I came to a stop the engine would not idle and died. I started back up and it ran again.
This problem caused the Check Engine light to come on with a low fuel pressure code.
Is it Vacuum or pressure in the crankcase. ??!
It is excessive vacuum. The noise you hear is air sucking through the bearings from the outside of the engine. You can take the oil fill cap off and hold a rubber glove over the hole to see if you have vacuumed or pressure.
Is there a way to flush the PCV oil trap without removing it? I use synthetic oil in my 04 V70. Will that prevent the problem?
No
I can't get the screw closest to the thermostat housing off because it hits the housing before it comes out completely. Did you cut a slot in the gasket for this screw or did you have to remove the thermostat housing?
Well. I managed to grind some material off of the thermostat housing which gave enough clearance for the screw to come off.
+Fly4happiness - I would cut a slot (of course not in the part that seals the intake).
I think I used a shallow socket and ground it down shallower. I did not take it all the way off. Then I cut the edge of the gasket to get it on the screw. That part of the gasket does not seal anything. @@VNAV_PTH
I really need help with my Volvo. Please comment back. I have the exact same car, making the exact same sound but I have a broken dipstick and another broken part but I don’t know what the part is called. I saw it in your video and I was wondering if you knew what it is
I also have the exact same broken tiny vacuum hose
Are you talking about the crankcase breather hose? www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fguide.alibaba.com%2Fshop%2Fokay-motor-pcv-hose-crankcase-breather-hose-for-volvo-s40-s60-v50-v60-xc60-xc70_1012909846.html&psig=AOvVaw2_ZWPHEvwnYsp9KvTYjsrE&ust=1587841712574000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=0CAMQjB1qFwoTCJCy18LhgekCFQAAAAAdAAAAABAD
I know that the oil pressure regulator in the oil pan
Hi, what are the symptoms, that you know it's a vacuum problem?
When you remove the oil filler cap or pull the dipstick the noise goes away.
You can hear it sucking when you pull the dip stick. Relieving the suction (or pressure) will stop the noise.) If you remove the oil fill cap and smoke comes out while it is running then the oil trap is probably full of sludge. either way it needs to be replaced.
Thanks man you just saved me hours of work cause other D**k heads have been telling me i had to remove half the engine to replace it, mine is clogged up and blowing smoke from the dipstick so could you tell me if i can just clean it out or does it really need replaced
If it is only oil maybe, but if it has deposits in it probably not. It does not come apart so the only way would be maybe blow compressed air into one side of it.
+Russell Hearn
I would just replace. No way I would put all that time into pulling it and have to do it again to save $100. Being a shade tree mechanic, it would probably take double the time an experienced mechanic would need for the job. I would figure 2 half days.
I was surprised at how easy this repair was, it only took a couple of hours. However I agree with you. I like to save money but I am also lazy and don't like doing the same work over if I don't have to. I also realize if you don't have the money your labor is cheap. You do what you gotta do to keep your car running.
can this cost to overheating
That's Whistling noise.
What tool did you use to loosen the bottom bolt closest to the thermostat housing?
Karl Boonzaaijer they're all tied bolts. best to remove thermostat housing as well, you really want to replace the intake manifold gasket and any others you unseal
torx
I believe a socket and universal swivel.
1/4" drive torx bits with extensions and wobbles
That is interesting. My 2003 also a non turbo, had the whistle noise, but I was getting positive pressure on the dipstick plus fumes going out of it, plus positive pressure at the oil filler (using a glove). The noise would also go away when untwisting the oil cap or removing the dipstick. The PCV box was empty but the diaphragm was broken. With the new PCV box, I get negative pressure at the oil filler (the glove gets strongly sucked in) and no more fumes by the dipstick and the noise is gone. Also see my video th-cam.com/video/3fEjbMpVSfo/w-d-xo.html
Yes, if you watch the video I explain there are two different faults that can happen with the oil trap box. It is normal to have some vacuum but too much will cause the noise and ruin your engine. Pressure and smoke blowing out the top of your engine is the same problem in reverse.
Regardless of how the oil trap failed, it will have one of these two symptoms and must be replaced to avoid trashing your engine.
engine sounds not healty
Still running after another 100000 miles - Now at 200000.
You didn't fix anything. That engine sounds too noisy. I'd check the timing...
the engine sounds bad, slammering
Still running great 100k later
Wonderful. Worked a treat to stop the whistle that had been there for years and stopped the erratic idling too. Many thanks