Dude, I have to tell you - I’m not a mechanic and I’m trying to do this myself in my garage watching this on my phone, and I have heard you drum on that thing like 1,000 times.
Between this and Jay’s other videos, I think we all have heard his drum solo 1,000 times 😂 Finally got the job done, took a while as every vacuum hose I’ve encountered had disintegrated to dust. Quite an involved job when compared to my Toyota, which is only a 20 minute job! But with patience, time, parts from FCP, and of course with these excellent videos, you’ll get there!
After removing the PCV box from my son's V70R (which was mine before hand) we found absolutely no sludge build up and the car has 250,000 miles on it. Apparently driving hard and fast works! These engines are damn near bullet proof. Here's to another 250,000!
@@VolvoMoose13 just a guess, but I'd think it would depends on how bad it is beforehand... If it's partially clogged, more stuff might catch and continue clogging it. If there's a little bit of debris, it there may be enough flow to "clean" it... Maybe not
Just completely did the PCV system replacement and I am here to help other people I have a 05 S60R but same for all the turbo P2s This video is a good start but he doesn't do the ENTIRE system, this is essentially a half job, for anyone trying to do the whole job, this is to help you Once you get the box off and the pipe disconnected you must now move on to the right and back of the engine by the turbo. There is a slightly larger banjo bolt on the right side of the block, and a PTC connection to the turbo inlet pipe, you must reach in and disconnect the larger banjo bolt with a socket or a box wrench, then once you do youll probably lose the copper crush washers on the old one, thats fine. Next up, coolant is going to go everywhere. Sorry. It's going to go everywhere. the PTC connection is air so youre fine. Then tug the pipe and get it out. At this point comes the hard part, you must disconnect the battery positive terminal and move all the wiring out of the way, coilpacks and all, also your airbox should be off at this point. Now you've got some more room, shove the new pipe back there and connect the PTC line onto the turbo inlet pipe, you can screw the clamp now but i waited til i threaded on and tightened the new banjo bolt. Remember this is the biggest banjo bolt and you must have a copper crush washer before the bolt and after on either side, you know what i mean. Which makes getting this thing on a b****. Not only that but even with the wiring out of the way barely one hand will fit back there. So now push against the pipe behind the engine to force the front of it toward the coolant hose more, you'll get it once you are there. Its difficult but it must be done, finally tighten the banjo bolt and then the clamp on the PTC connection. Once you've got that you're over the hump and its uphill from there its just putting stuff back together.
Also, you should replace that whole banjo pipe assembly with a new updated version for 08+ where few hoses got slightly bigger which could probably lessen the likelihood of those getting clogged again at higher mileage. Then just use synthetic oil ever again!
just want you guys to know that i became a customer because of these tutorial videos. i've always worked on my own vehicles (by necessity) and while generally most things are straightforward there is still a huge value to watching someone do it and explain the process, makes things much easier. however, for most vehicles, all you're going to get is maybe a 5 part series of 8 minute long videos of some guy recording with his cell phone, which is still helpful and appreciated, but those have their own drawbacks too. these videos are professional and clear to see what's happening and with good explanations. i was originally going to purchase the parts i needed for slightly less somewhere else, but these videos are so helpful that i'm glad to pay towards getting such great customer service. thank you
My family has only driven Volvos for the last 30 years. I have been dealing with FCP for at least 20 yrs and only ONE order was ever wrong (I'm NOT Kidding!) They know their stuff as well as any Factory Trained Volvo Tech. I know because I was taught by 2 ASE Cert. Volvo Factory trained mechanics over the years. FCP has supported the Volvo community and I encourage anyone watching this video to support them in any way that you can. The reason I say that is because it's getting harder finding quality parts for Volvos w/out going to the dealer and paying an arm or a leg, waiting for days for it to be either imported or shipped from a hub. Or even worse No longer available. One thing I like about Volvo vs other European manufacturers is that they don't engineer their cars to require only special tools to provide proper service, making it easier for us shade tree/amateur mechanics to drive and maintain our cars for a fraction of dealer service costs. You'd be amazed at how often people tell me that "they can't afford to drive a Volvo" I silently say to myself that I couldn't either with my decent blue-collar wage. BTW: I am in NO WAY affiliated with FCP or any other sponsers, sellers or manufacturers. I maintain my family's fleet of 6 Volvos, dwindled down from 9. Yes , it's a sickness and I hope you catch it too!
Quick tip for the banjo bolt. Loosen 3 lower intake bolts. Raise up intake 1/2” or so. Re-tighten the center and right bolt. This will hold up the intake just enough to make it easier to reinstall the banjo bolt. Do a few dry runs first so you get the feel of the re-thread. Then do it for real with the top crush washer. Btw, put a towel over the alternator, Murphy loves to drop crush washers into the alternator.
Wonderful job, and good job explaining every step. I'm very happy to see you cleaned up the area a bit for the customer rather than throwing everything back together dirty as hell like some shops. The extra mile always counts for the customer!
Just replaced my PCV today, but replaced the whole coolant line along with the pcv system. That thing was a b**** but this video helped tremendously. I'd suggest using that part from the T6 instead of replacing the whole piece. Thanks FCPEURO!!!!
Just finished doing my car now.. I followed u jason, step by step, and made it.. Thank u very much. Also thank u fcp for the right parts u gave me.. Cheers
@@crazychivez hi, u need an extender for ur socket.. The hardest is the one near the waterpump, either u loosen the hose and use a flexible socket extension or remove the waterhose
Excellent video, nice step-by-step. Suggestions: when cleaning out sludge, etc., use a shop vac to remove the debris instead of compressed air so you don't blow debris into ports, etc. Also fill the intake ports with rags before cleaning the gasket surface so you don't get crud into the engine. Helpful videos like this are why I am a loyal FCP customer.
THANK YOU so much for making these videos. I have a 2003 S60 with 324,000+ and it's still going strong. These vids are a HUGE help and I only get parts from FCP because I trust the quality. Thanks again.
Hey, I just want to say thank you for such a detailed quality video on this PCV job. I just followed your steps and went through the process fairly easily. Without this video I wouldn't even have tried doing it myself. I'm very grateful!
Adding my two cents worth. Buy the two piece fuel line to rail retaining clip! It will break! Buy the banjo bolt, it will be blocked and the tube WILL be broken. If the bottom hole in the block is clogged, before you remove the sump try to poke through with flexible wire, non flammable brake cleaner, shop vac and a blow gun! The one I've just done took over an hour to unclog that hole but at least I don't have to remove the sump!!! COVER ALL the holes, tubes etc. with rags, paper towels, bags etc. If you don't and you drop anything down an intake tube, for example, you are going to have a REALLY, REALLY bad day! Try not to use an air gun on alloy engines you will eventually strip a thread. If your car is 15 years old with 200k + you will most likely find one or two broken injectors, so plan on buying a set! Old EV1 injectors are notorious for breaking the plastic washers on the tip holding the O ring. The one I'm doing now (05 with 208k miles) has two broken injectors so the whole set is being replaced. Also don't just change the bottom O rings on the injectors, change the top ones as well. They come in the PCV kit from FCP. If I think of anything else I will add to this post.
Very good explanation of the entire job from start to finish. It will be a great help. What would also assist is show all the tools used during the video at the end, so we can see all those necessary for the job.
This video was great! I just finished up the job. That banjo bolt kicked my butt. I spent about an hour trying to get it off and another hour trying to get it on during the reassemble. It took me about 7 hours total for the whole job but I don't have all of the fancy tools used in the video.
Do not tighten bolts, leave some wiggle room, so you can't get ahead of yourself and have to redo to loosen. I'd rather look at it for 10 minutes than to struggle for 20.
This is my first involved job on a vehicle. So far the hardest thing i’ve done is install my boost gauge, lol. Im about to take intake manifold off. Really not too bad of a job if you work on it over the span of a week or two. Take an hour to work then revisit the next day. Saving me lots by not taking to a dealer. Also seeing this guy put all the bolts up on the cover in front of the windshield wiper blades makes me anxious lmao i have all mine in labeled bags
Thank you!!!!ª job done on a 2005 volvo xc90 2.5l turbo I followed all the steps and replaced the parts, the check engine light was cleared. P2178 codes are gone!!!! I m very happy!!! Thank you again!!!!
Just used this guide heavily to fix my 02 xc70, I ended up dropping the pan because the oil return passage was totally gummed up, but now it's running like a champ, thanks!
Hello Eli, how involved was the oil pan removal, cleaning and re-installation? I may be doing this job soon on a 2004 XC70 and just want to be prepared.
Doing this right now, the nipple broke when trying to take that banjo bolt out. Saved me a hassle though, and I already had a replacement thanks to this video !
This is one of the very best instructional video I have seen. I owned a S70GLT before and I know even replacing a tiny parts in a Volvo, you have to remove everything in the car to get to it and most of the things in the path were fragile and could break while someone is doing that. Another example is the evaporator for the air conditioning. Volvo parts are not built to fail, that's from my experience.
@@korbendallas102 True. All modern cars drive you crazy as soon as you need to do maintenance or repairs. Can hardly think of anything easier to work on than an old Volvo.
@@harryk771 not gonna lie, at one point I went nuts, but needed my car for work the next day. A 2.5 hour job turned into an 8 hour job lmao. Funny how you can’t pull the radiator out because of the handles of the intercoolet, but yet you have no room to pull them out both at once… great system.
Just finished this job on a recently purchased 2006 XC90 with 205,000 miles. Disassembly wasn't too bad, took about 2 hours. Reassembly took much longer (5 hours) though I was going slow and spent some extra time cleaning up the area and replacing broken wire loom. The lower opening on my oil trap was 100% clogged, much much worse than the one in the video here. I sprayed compressed air through the lower opening in the engine block and was unable to hear any oil or feel any air coming out of the filler cap or other holes. I decided to skip dropping the pan and just put it all back together. Once complete, I started it up and did the glove test which it passed with flying colors! The engine sucks in the glove now as it should. So I am not sure if I need to drop the pan after all? Maybe now that I cleared most of the system, the last little bit that was clogged in the pan cleared itself? If you are about to tackle this job, spend some time and make sure you have all the parts AND tools you will need. One thing that is easy to skip is hose clamps. You will need a lot of hose clamps. I used a set I bought from Harbor Freight. They are the reusable type, not the one time use ones used in the video.
Nice. I don't plan to do it myself, but it gives me an idea of the effort. My indie Volvo mechanic has been raking me lately. I've got visible smoke from the dipstick tube
Just bought a 2002 V70 with 134 000 miles and watched this video. God damn! It seems like Volvo suspended av PCV system in the air and built an engine around it. Happy mine runs fine with no fault codes.
What a great video! I used to do a lot of car work but haven't in a long time. Decided to take on dropping pan and replacing the oil breather system. Had this video on a table right next to me. Great step-by-step, forward and backwards. I even used the T6 replacement plastic piece, thanks to you. Interestingly, you mention re-attaching the valve and banjo bolt, but didn't actually video step. HINT TO ALL: Re-attach before you mount the manifold! Thanks again.
Thank you So much for this video! I used it throughout the whole process and now my high-mileage (over 250K) 2006 runs like new! No more idle issues or surging. WOOHOO! FCP Euro is the shiznit!
Hi Jill. How long did it take you to replace it? I have a 2004 Volvo XC70 with 250k and using oil like crazy. Did you have problems taking off the banjo bolt. Are there any other issues I should know. I like females do there own car repairs. What to help me? Lol thanks
@@lassenielsen4340 I did have oil coming out around the cap- too much pressure, so it was burning oil off the engine. That's to be expected anytime you have any kind of blow-by.
@@donaldzupko7810 Honestly, I had more trouble getting the banjo bolt back on than off. Side note: Ratcheting wrenches and wobble joints are your friends! Be sure to check the box for the new washer, too! The entire job took several hours that I ended up splitting between two days. Not a hard job, even though it digs pretty deep into the engine compartment. Just keep track of what goes where and bolt placement, etc.. FCP Euro's guide is excellent for the step-by-step. When you have the intake manifold off, be sure to check the vacuum hoses that are normally tucked under it. Mine was about the same mileage and had some that were collapsed and crumbly. You should definitely clean your throttle body while you're there, too! It's an excellent opportunity to take care of any kind of normally hidden maintenance. Go step by step, reference the video anytime you have a question or a doubt and you'll be fine.
What an awesome video, thank you guys for making quality content and supplying quality parts! Just picked up my 2005 XC70 and I'm getting ready to do this job.
Great video, having big problems removing the banjo boot underneath the manifold. Bolt won't budge. ETM is showing faults. One step away from completing both jobs.
This video made changing made changing my clogged canister easy - Thanks for the Volvo part number for the PCV - nipple mine was cracked and clogged. Great Video !!
Excellent instruction. You may want to use coconut oil on the fittings if you need to, because silicone base lubricant contaminates AFR and narrow band O2 sensors, and cause mixture control, drivability problems and $$$ for replacement. Many O2 sensor oem suppliers have published data showing this, NTK, Denso, etc. Returned "defective" sensors showed in lab tests to be "silicone poisoned", as the leading cause of early failure. I try to assemble dry any plumbing on an intake system that utilizes oxygen sensors, w/b or n/b. Otherwise, it is one of the best vids that deal with this issue clearly.
Great vid, as always. That last bolt on the lower passenger side for the intake seems just about impossible to get off without removing the stat housing but Jay has a better wobble socket extension than me (which makes sense). I just ended up yanking the stat housing and getting a pseudo coolant change out of the deal.
It seems every European car is designed in such a way that it has to go back to the dealership for most services. This is a lot of work to get to this box to replace it. This video makes it look easy, but I'm sure it will take me 4 days instead of 4 hours. Thanks for the video, it's well made.
Thanks for a great video, Jay does an awesome presentation. My V60 has 240K on it and the trap was plugged. I would suggest replacing the evaporator hoses and valves while I am under there. Also a 10 mm Crowsfoot wrenched taped on the end of a ratchet extension will get the far left lower bolt, of the intake, loose and tight. Cheaper then a Wobble socket
That is a good idea. I struggled for a while with that bolt and fortunately have a set of higher quality 1/4" drive extensions with the semi-wobble end that gave just enough wiggle to get it on. The video poster looks to have stubby wobble sockets. Not something you can pick up at the local parts store.
Helped even with a P80 set up, to hell with that banjo bolt!! Didn't have a 17 stubby so with some patients and some persuasive words I got it with a 3/8 wrench and a 17mm socket!
At 7:30 that is a critical check. Even without a compressed air hose, get a regular hose and blow air by mouth: you should hear the oil bubbling inside the oil pan. If you don't hear it, chances are that oil passage is blocked and 'you must' remove the pan as Jason says, if you don't clean that passage, even with a new PCV box you'll get the engine main and cam seals blown. This is DIY on non turbo engine th-cam.com/video/3fEjbMpVSfo/w-d-xo.html and more details on accessing the bolts th-cam.com/video/8CIVJu5E-Sk/w-d-xo.html
The passage from the Box to inside the Pan can only be cleaned by removing the Pan. I am far from a pro and pulled the pan. It is very messy like mega messy I love dirty jobs. Invest in paper towels and cleaner.
In one of your videos you do a plastic bag test on the oil cap opening. My 2004 XC70 does not have suction. So this video is how I fix that right? The whole PCV system?
Great video easy to listen to and understand, You cannot go wrong following your instruction, If you are totally Inept by all means take it to your mechanic !!
Thanks for the overview. Changed my PVC on my 04 S60 non turbo. BTW, the bottom PVC box bolt has to be removed/installed by feel as you cant see it & requires extensions with narrow 10mm socket (no shoulder) as there is not a lot of extra room.
Or you can just rip out the trap with the bolt still fastened. The only thing that breaks is the old oil trap. Then you have excellent line of sight to the bolt.
Thanks for the video and tips. The kit you guys sent had a smaller version of the short tube that hooks up the engine body on the Breather box. A flexible tube, not the ring gasket thing that attaches rigidly to the breather box and the Engine body. I managed to reuse the old one. It appears it was far too small in diameter to fit the engine. I now have a newfound hatred for the crimp ring gaskets tho so that's a plus. Side note tho, it appeared that my PVC box and system were not too gummed up. Not sure if this is because I've run Royal Purple in this engine for the last 5000 miles. My issue still appears to be with the miss-timing of one of the cylinders. 2 or 4 on an I5. Sometimes during acceleration above 40mph the engine will sputter and I will drop engine power. I've run a bottle of Lucas fule injector cleaner through the fule injectors and they look very clean. I did the "Lisen with a screwdriver trick" on the back of the fule injectors and they appear to all be firing. I've tried swapping out new coils, granted I use junkyard salvaged ones. It still does not appear to be these. New spark plugs were just put in 3000 miles ago. Shouldn't be those.
I did this on my 2004 Volvo S60 at 104,000 miles and the access hole was 100% plugged. I did take off the oil pan (very easy compared to most other cars) and the breather channel was clogged there too. It is a square shape channel. I believe you need to take off the oil plan to get the whole system unclogged.
Doing my second PCV on a 2007 XC I bought to fully restore. One tip for thue super annoying right lower intake bolt... Get a thermostat gasket a drop the thermostat, the price of the gasket ia not worth the pain dealing with that screw. The line that goes from the banjo to the fancy hose, I have replaced it twice with some fuel line I got on eBay many years ago and still kicking. I cut it in both ends and cleaned the banjo fitting really well. For the screw... This time i had the UNIQUE luxury to have removed all three rads and could go fro the front of the car like nothing. Since I also wanted to clean the big bracket where the Alternator/Compressor/PS pump and belt tensioner go, I did the banjo just like any other bolt since I had to put everything back together. Next year or the one after when I do my 2006 S80 I will not have the luxury of all that space since the car is pristine ao no need to drop the rad sandwich.
This is an INSANE amount of work for this part. WHY did Volvo USE this system?! I want to do this but would never have the actual time....dang it Volvo.
Just got a 2007 XC70 and PCV needed to be changed. Changed the PCV but it looks like I will have to drop the oil pan as well. Do you by chance have any video or information about what I'd be looking for and how to clean that passageway? Thanks a lot for this great video which helped me do the PCV change.
8:15 Replace the entire pipe! I took mine apart as I wanted to save time and agony by just replacing the passenger side hoses and once I took it apart it was filled with sludge.
@@dionescu1 The driver's side is a pain. I used a wiggle socket to get it off. Getting that banjo bolt back on with the washers may be the biggest pain in the ass I have ever encountered with a car. The passenger side banjo bolt is not much more fun either. On the passenger side put that banjo bolt on before tightening the hose to the breather box. It is at an angle so you need wiggle room. Automotive engineers piss me off to no end. I also replaced all the tiny rubber hoses with silicone hoses with the same inner diameter.
I just finished my PCV system, 9 out of 10 on the pain index. The Banjo bolt is by far one of the most annoying things to get off, id definitely recommend a ratcheting stubby wrench. Also if your vehicle is high mileage, watch out for your injector plastic falling into your valves.
Thanks! Did it thanks to that video... But many things were different or harder than expected after that video. Many Bolt were harder to reach. Many Clambs were hard to clamb after doing it the wrong sequence.
ok so my car part (ignition antenna) came 3 days too early wtf lol anyway Jason I own a 2002 S60 and would be lost without you..car runs awesome but sometimes you just have to get dirty I love my car has over 200k on it and plan on getting 200 more. Thanks for all you do ....my top 3 youtubers for cars are you , Kilmer and Chris fixx with a little eric the car guy if it's not one of you guys I won't watch
Well done. Having turbo and a throttle body below the manifold complicates things slightly. On my naturally aspirated 2002 V70, it was fairly straightforward. IT PAYS TO DO THIS JOB EARLY. I did it at 85k miles and had very little sludge.
Okay, just did mine (2002 s60 2.4T, 180k miles) - there are minor differences from this video such as how the fuel line connects (weirdo connector requiring a weirdo tool to release it), my fuel supply line also comes through the intake manifold and makes a bend, adding to the difficulty removing the manifold, and there is no fuel pressure sensor - the release valve is where that sensor is. I bought the snap-on 10mm wobbly, and there was no way it was getting on that intake manifold bolt, I had to use a 1/4" drive wobbly, feed it in with one long adapter, and then add a second long adapter, and then pray and curse a lot. And that banjo bolt is no joke - annoyingly, I didn't check the new one before I put it in the car - the new banjo bolt is 19mm while the original one is 17mm, took me a little while fighting it and scraping up the back of my hand on the alternator before I figured that out. Oh, the oetiker clamp tool he's using in this video seems to clamp from the top and side, the one I bought from FCP only clamps from the front, but some large diagonal cutting pliers did the trick for cinching from the side. Other than I forgot to order a couple of clamps - so I salvaged and reused the old ones, and my order was missing one of the crush washers for the banjo bolt, the parts worked out alright. No effing way I'm ever doing this again. Oh, and the original PCV trap wasn't clogged at all, or at least not visibly. :( Took about 6 hours, start to finish with no breaks. good luck to anyone thinking about doing it.
This was an absolutely amazing video. I thank you so much. Very clear and precise. I just bought a 2009 and I think I need to deal with the PCV system. 🙌
This is July from California, I thank you for all you video that had help me completed my repair for my Volvo S60 2001. Would be niece if you can do one for how to remove the bracket that hold the power steering pump, alternator, and a/c compressor. Thank you
Just finished disassembly: for the difficult bolt - I removed all the other bolts and then the inlet manifold could move a bit up and down. I then rotated the difficult bolt with a thin screwdriver and hammer. After a few gentle taps, the bolt was loose enough to remove the inlet manifold. With the manifold off, I can check what tool will fit on the bolt to tighten it. Already cut a 10mm socket shorter because there is very little room. The hose to the top of the motor was completely hard and broke in several pieces. The thin hose to the banjo connection under the inlet manifold had also hardened and shattered in pieces. @2:43 where he shows the injectors: there is a plastic ring/washer (BOSCH 1 280 113 716) on top of the O-ring. One of the washers came out in pieces on my car.
Never doubt yourself. I'm no mechanic and after watching the mello fello I can probably do it in under a month! 🤣🤣🤣 jkjk... But seriously, probably 5 hours at most in my back yard with manual tools. You don't wanna strip the block
Need help with I’m in installing a pcv kit and new breather system is there another banjo bolt back there and do you have a video of showing that on p2 Volvos? I have 2004 xc70 2.5t awd doing this job tomorrow when my fcpeuroparts come in!
My car failed the check at 730 no air blows tru the oil cap. I got to drop the pan fuark! So just drop it and clean? Should i replace anything when i drop the pan?
I dropped the oil pan and cleaned the oil pickup tube and the oil port as best as i could, put it back on. Cost 35 bucks for the seals kit, anaerobic sealant and solvent. The breather box job is really hard on the back
You don't need to buy a $50+ Snap On Wobble socket to get to the left bottom intake manifold bolt. It was much easier to remove the Thermostat which gives you full access to the bolt. Also; you're half assing it if you don't replace all the PCV parts. I got the complete PCV tubing/parts/box including the one he did surgery on rigged for $100 at Parts Geek. , Part #: SK121453 for a 2007 XC70
Wow I don't remember how many times I watch this video thank you for sharing. It looks easy but I don't know if I can do it by myself and don't want to pay a 1000 to change that little box My car is old already and time to buy a newer one.
I dont have my pcv system placed at that location anymore on my v70. I have it install next to the filterbox with special mods looks now 100% stock like it was from factory. I can easly clean or replace it with just 2x 10mm and some hose clamps.
All I wanna know is how you got to that bottom side manifold on the passenger side with just that straight extension. I have been working at that one bolt for 12 hours now and I cannot for the life of me get to it as simply as you did. That’s the only thing keeping me from getting it off. (Edit) I got that damn bolt off now I’m stuck trying to get that bottom bolt off the box 😂 I do appreciate the video it’s been a big help! Almost done
Thanks so much for the Video! Can part #30731007 be cleaned some-how on or off the vehicle? Maybe soaking it in solvent or a degreaser and using a thin wire and air pressure through the hose to clear it?
So I ordered the kit, added injector seals, the throttle body gasket, dip stick seal and will hold off to see if I need the oil pan kit. Do you guys carry the hose clamp crimping tool? Also was sure what name the banjo crush washers would have to order them, can you point me to those? My timing belt is still dry...so not to bad yet, but no suction at the oil filler when running. Have been wondering where the oil was going...many thanks!
I had to replace the first hose coming off the thermostat housing to the hard line that bend around the banjo bolt. I could miraculously do it in the space without removing anything and it ONLY took an hour. Thank FARTS URO Parts has a rebuild kit with the hoses.
For anyone trying this, I ended up removing the alt harness clamp and used a 1/4" drive 10mm on an extension to get in there. Easiest if you tackle this bolt before removing the easy one on the other side. My mistake was taking the other bolt off and the box ended up biased to the side, making access even more restricted
@@jeffgraybill508 no one wants to be cutting down their tools though. Literally if I lose one socket out of a set, to me the whole set is garbage unless I can find the exact replacement.
Great video but you should vacuum out the intake ports after you cleaned the surface. When you start the engine you are going to suck all that dust into the cylinder!
I just moved from CA to GA and do not have have my tools to complete this job nor the space and time to do it in steps. What would this job run me at a shop? Thanks
I like the way you do the job clean pro Thanks for the video
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Three things first why not change both orings on the injectors? Another according to Vadis the bottom hose (the one in aluminium) you put it backwards. The clogged part, the one with the banjo you can easily unclog it with a small drill no need for a new part. Tha banjo bolt is definitely the hardest thing on this job, but thanks for the video it really helped.
This is a great video. What mileage should the breather be serviced. My C70 is 22 years old but has only covered 35000 miles. Is there any maintenance I can do to avoid having to strip the breather down. Thank you.
regular oil changes are your best bet! the enemy of the breather system is sludge, so even if you're not doing the miles, dirst still sits in the oil and it can break down so you want to change it at least one a year if not every 5-6 months
If it fail the air test, ? You said we need to drop the oil pan at that time. Does that mean you can't assemble the PCV system until the oil pan is removed clean and replaced?
Dude, I have to tell you - I’m not a mechanic and I’m trying to do this myself in my garage watching this on my phone, and I have heard you drum on that thing like 1,000 times.
Did you get the job done? I just took mine to a Volvo indie cause this is just too much work
@@fredaydaybae8450 dropping mine off tomorrow how much did it set you back
@@fredaydaybae8450 how much cost you ?
Between this and Jay’s other videos, I think we all have heard his drum solo 1,000 times 😂 Finally got the job done, took a while as every vacuum hose I’ve encountered had disintegrated to dust. Quite an involved job when compared to my Toyota, which is only a 20 minute job! But with patience, time, parts from FCP, and of course with these excellent videos, you’ll get there!
It’s easy and especially with a step by step instructions like this thanks bro
After removing the PCV box from my son's V70R (which was mine before hand) we found absolutely no sludge build up and the car has 250,000 miles on it. Apparently driving hard and fast works! These engines are damn near bullet proof. Here's to another 250,000!
till the block cracks
@@its.gav.v1563 On R models its the cylinder walls that crack.
Driving hard can clog the pcv more though.
@@VolvoMoose13 just a guess, but I'd think it would depends on how bad it is beforehand... If it's partially clogged, more stuff might catch and continue clogging it. If there's a little bit of debris, it there may be enough flow to "clean" it... Maybe not
Just completely did the PCV system replacement and I am here to help other people
I have a 05 S60R but same for all the turbo P2s
This video is a good start but he doesn't do the ENTIRE system, this is essentially a half job, for anyone trying to do the whole job, this is to help you
Once you get the box off and the pipe disconnected you must now move on to the right and back of the engine by the turbo. There is a slightly larger banjo bolt on the right side of the block, and a PTC connection to the turbo inlet pipe, you must reach in and disconnect the larger banjo bolt with a socket or a box wrench, then once you do youll probably lose the copper crush washers on the old one, thats fine. Next up, coolant is going to go everywhere. Sorry. It's going to go everywhere. the PTC connection is air so youre fine. Then tug the pipe and get it out. At this point comes the hard part, you must disconnect the battery positive terminal and move all the wiring out of the way, coilpacks and all, also your airbox should be off at this point. Now you've got some more room, shove the new pipe back there and connect the PTC line onto the turbo inlet pipe, you can screw the clamp now but i waited til i threaded on and tightened the new banjo bolt. Remember this is the biggest banjo bolt and you must have a copper crush washer before the bolt and after on either side, you know what i mean. Which makes getting this thing on a b****. Not only that but even with the wiring out of the way barely one hand will fit back there. So now push against the pipe behind the engine to force the front of it toward the coolant hose more, you'll get it once you are there. Its difficult but it must be done, finally tighten the banjo bolt and then the clamp on the PTC connection. Once you've got that you're over the hump and its uphill from there its just putting stuff back together.
Also, you should replace that whole banjo pipe assembly with a new updated version for 08+ where few hoses got slightly bigger which could probably lessen the likelihood of those getting clogged again at higher mileage. Then just use synthetic oil ever again!
just want you guys to know that i became a customer because of these tutorial videos. i've always worked on my own vehicles (by necessity) and while generally most things are straightforward there is still a huge value to watching someone do it and explain the process, makes things much easier. however, for most vehicles, all you're going to get is maybe a 5 part series of 8 minute long videos of some guy recording with his cell phone, which is still helpful and appreciated, but those have their own drawbacks too. these videos are professional and clear to see what's happening and with good explanations. i was originally going to purchase the parts i needed for slightly less somewhere else, but these videos are so helpful that i'm glad to pay towards getting such great customer service. thank you
This guy is really good, I've seen many videos and have been doing mechanical work all my life.
Clean, precise great to watch!
My family has only driven Volvos for the last 30 years. I have been dealing with FCP for at least 20 yrs and only ONE order was ever wrong (I'm NOT Kidding!) They know their stuff as well as any Factory Trained Volvo Tech. I know because I was taught by 2 ASE Cert. Volvo Factory trained mechanics over the years. FCP has supported the Volvo community and I encourage anyone watching this video to support them in any way that you can. The reason I say that is because it's getting harder finding quality parts for Volvos w/out going to the dealer and paying an arm or a leg, waiting for days for it to be either imported or shipped from a hub. Or even worse No longer available.
One thing I like about Volvo vs other European manufacturers is that they don't engineer their cars to require only special tools to provide proper service, making it easier for us shade tree/amateur mechanics to drive and maintain our cars for a fraction of dealer service costs. You'd be amazed at how often people tell me that "they can't afford to drive a Volvo" I silently say to myself that I couldn't either with my decent blue-collar wage.
BTW: I am in NO WAY affiliated with FCP or any other sponsers, sellers or manufacturers.
I maintain my family's fleet of 6 Volvos, dwindled down from 9. Yes , it's a sickness and I hope you catch it too!
Aaron Whitesell I just bought my second one in my driveway last week. It’s an addiction
Hey Aaron, any chance you’re in the Chicago area?
Got 5 T5’s. I’m buying parts from FCP weekly. Yes my wife thinks I’m sick. Latest: 05 XC90 I think it needs PCV done 161k miles
Quick tip for the banjo bolt. Loosen 3 lower intake bolts. Raise up intake 1/2” or so. Re-tighten the center and right bolt. This will hold up the intake just enough to make it easier to reinstall the banjo bolt. Do a few dry runs first so you get the feel of the re-thread. Then do it for real with the top crush washer. Btw, put a towel over the alternator, Murphy loves to drop crush washers into the alternator.
Does the banjo go together or is there 1 above the loop for the coolant line and then one under it ? 🤔
@@velvetman49O HI, I don't recall, it's been a few years. Besure to cover the alternator with a towel.....
gonna give this a shot ive been fighting this bolt for hours, i got the head on and off quicker lolol
This shit sucks I hate Volvo
It says in the description to put banjo bolt on before reinstalling the intake manifold
Wonderful job, and good job explaining every step. I'm very happy to see you cleaned up the area a bit for the customer rather than throwing everything back together dirty as hell like some shops. The extra mile always counts for the customer!
Because it's being recorded. Lol
Right, except he's not considering torque specs properly at any means. That was hard to watch, either under torqued or damaging thread tension
I am currently changing the head gasket on one of these cars. This video is a huge help in removing the intake manifold.
How did you get to the bolt under the thermostat
Just replaced my PCV today, but replaced the whole coolant line along with the pcv system. That thing was a b**** but this video helped tremendously. I'd suggest using that part from the T6 instead of replacing the whole piece. Thanks FCPEURO!!!!
Just finished doing my car now.. I followed u jason, step by step, and made it.. Thank u very much. Also thank u fcp for the right parts u gave me.. Cheers
I'm jealous... Nice job
How did you get your intake bolts loose on tbe bottom?
@@crazychivez hi, u need an extender for ur socket.. The hardest is the one near the waterpump, either u loosen the hose and use a flexible socket extension or remove the waterhose
Excellent video, nice step-by-step. Suggestions: when cleaning out sludge, etc., use a shop vac to remove the debris instead of compressed air so you don't blow debris into ports, etc. Also fill the intake ports with rags before cleaning the gasket surface so you don't get crud into the engine. Helpful videos like this are why I am a loyal FCP customer.
Thanks for the great tips and for being a loyal FCP Euro customer, Dirk!
I use my older shop vac for the coolant when ever it needs to be removed,..works almost as good as the Volvo Coolant extraction and fill system
I had the same concerns, great video otherwise.
THANK YOU so much for making these videos. I have a 2003 S60 with 324,000+ and it's still going strong. These vids are a HUGE help and I only get parts from FCP because I trust the quality. Thanks again.
Hey, I just want to say thank you for such a detailed quality video on this PCV job. I just followed your steps and went through the process fairly easily. Without this video I wouldn't even have tried doing it myself. I'm very grateful!
You're welcome!
@@fcpeuro do you have a link or name of those hose clamp crimping pliers???? They look amazing.
Adding my two cents worth. Buy the two piece fuel line to rail retaining clip! It will break! Buy the banjo bolt, it will be blocked and the tube WILL be broken. If the bottom hole in the block is clogged, before you remove the sump try to poke through with flexible wire, non flammable brake cleaner, shop vac and a blow gun! The one I've just done took over an hour to unclog that hole but at least I don't have to remove the sump!!! COVER ALL the holes, tubes etc. with rags, paper towels, bags etc. If you don't and you drop anything down an intake tube, for example, you are going to have a REALLY, REALLY bad day! Try not to use an air gun on alloy engines you will eventually strip a thread. If your car is 15 years old with 200k + you will most likely find one or two broken injectors, so plan on buying a set! Old EV1 injectors are notorious for breaking the plastic washers on the tip holding the O ring. The one I'm doing now (05 with 208k miles) has two broken injectors so the whole set is being replaced. Also don't just change the bottom O rings on the injectors, change the top ones as well. They come in the PCV kit from FCP. If I think of anything else I will add to this post.
Very good explanation of the entire job from start to finish. It will be a great help. What would also assist is show all the tools used during the video at the end, so we can see all those necessary for the job.
This video was great! I just finished up the job. That banjo bolt kicked my butt. I spent about an hour trying to get it off and another hour trying to get it on during the reassemble. It took me about 7 hours total for the whole job but I don't have all of the fancy tools used in the video.
Do not tighten bolts, leave some wiggle room, so you can't get ahead of yourself and have to redo to loosen. I'd rather look at it for 10 minutes than to struggle for 20.
For others, ask ahead of forums how is better to do put back the banjo bolt. A few members have figured out a few tricks
Man, our boy J looking a little tired after that job! Great video, man! Thanks for doing this for us.
This is my first involved job on a vehicle. So far the hardest thing i’ve done is install my boost gauge, lol. Im about to take intake manifold off. Really not too bad of a job if you work on it over the span of a week or two. Take an hour to work then revisit the next day. Saving me lots by not taking to a dealer. Also seeing this guy put all the bolts up on the cover in front of the windshield wiper blades makes me anxious lmao i have all mine in labeled bags
Thank you!!!!ª job done on a 2005 volvo xc90 2.5l turbo I followed all the steps and replaced the parts, the check engine light was cleared. P2178 codes are gone!!!! I m very happy!!! Thank you again!!!!
Just used this guide heavily to fix my 02 xc70, I ended up dropping the pan because the oil return passage was totally gummed up, but now it's running like a champ, thanks!
Hello Eli, how involved was the oil pan removal, cleaning and re-installation? I may be doing this job soon on a 2004 XC70 and just want to be prepared.
Doing this right now, the nipple broke when trying to take that banjo bolt out. Saved me a hassle though, and I already had a replacement thanks to this video !
Glad the video helped!
This is one of the very best instructional video I have seen. I owned a S70GLT before and I know even replacing a tiny parts in a Volvo, you have to remove everything in the car to get to it and most of the things in the path were fragile and could break while someone is doing that. Another example is the evaporator for the air conditioning. Volvo parts are not built to fail, that's from my experience.
How to fix anything in a Volvo easy steps.
Step 1: disassemble the whole damn car.
Try to fix anything in modern car. After 2 hrs you are going to look for an axe 😎 Volvo is mostly very nice car to service.
@@korbendallas102 True. All modern cars drive you crazy as soon as you need to do maintenance or repairs.
Can hardly think of anything easier to work on than an old Volvo.
Just replaced the radiator on my 2.3 t5 with tranny intercooler and condensor attached to it… what a fucking beach. I had all stages of grief.
@stefancgxz7799 you are a patient person then.
@@harryk771 not gonna lie, at one point I went nuts, but needed my car for work the next day. A 2.5 hour job turned into an 8 hour job lmao. Funny how you can’t pull the radiator out because of the handles of the intercoolet, but yet you have no room to pull them out both at once… great system.
Just finished this job on a recently purchased 2006 XC90 with 205,000 miles. Disassembly wasn't too bad, took about 2 hours. Reassembly took much longer (5 hours) though I was going slow and spent some extra time cleaning up the area and replacing broken wire loom. The lower opening on my oil trap was 100% clogged, much much worse than the one in the video here. I sprayed compressed air through the lower opening in the engine block and was unable to hear any oil or feel any air coming out of the filler cap or other holes. I decided to skip dropping the pan and just put it all back together. Once complete, I started it up and did the glove test which it passed with flying colors! The engine sucks in the glove now as it should. So I am not sure if I need to drop the pan after all? Maybe now that I cleared most of the system, the last little bit that was clogged in the pan cleared itself?
If you are about to tackle this job, spend some time and make sure you have all the parts AND tools you will need. One thing that is easy to skip is hose clamps. You will need a lot of hose clamps. I used a set I bought from Harbor Freight. They are the reusable type, not the one time use ones used in the video.
Nice. I don't plan to do it myself, but it gives me an idea of the effort. My indie Volvo mechanic has been raking me lately. I've got visible smoke from the dipstick tube
Just bought a 2002 V70 with 134 000 miles and watched this video.
God damn! It seems like Volvo suspended av PCV system in the air and built an engine around it. Happy mine runs fine with no fault codes.
What a great video! I used to do a lot of car work but haven't in a long time. Decided to take on dropping pan and replacing the oil breather system. Had this video on a table right next to me. Great step-by-step, forward and backwards. I even used the T6 replacement plastic piece, thanks to you. Interestingly, you mention re-attaching the valve and banjo bolt, but didn't actually video step. HINT TO ALL: Re-attach before you mount the manifold! Thanks again.
Glad it was helpful! And thanks for the note for future DIY'ers ,we've added that into the description.
I just did my volvo xc90 2004 these video help me a lot
car is running much better am sure these repair fix a few others already. thanks
You're welcome Miguel. Glad to hear the videos helped.
Hi miguel, where did you bought the parts?
Thank you So much for this video! I used it throughout the whole process and now my high-mileage (over 250K) 2006 runs like new! No more idle issues or surging. WOOHOO! FCP Euro is the shiznit!
That's awesome! Glad to hear your car is running like new, Jill!
did it smell of burnt oil when it got warm ?
Hi Jill. How long did it take you to replace it? I have a 2004 Volvo XC70 with 250k and using oil like crazy. Did you have problems taking off the banjo bolt. Are there any other issues I should know. I like females do there own car repairs.
What to help me? Lol thanks
@@lassenielsen4340 I did have oil coming out around the cap- too much pressure, so it was burning oil off the engine. That's to be expected anytime you have any kind of blow-by.
@@donaldzupko7810 Honestly, I had more trouble getting the banjo bolt back on than off. Side note: Ratcheting wrenches and wobble joints are your friends! Be sure to check the box for the new washer, too! The entire job took several hours that I ended up splitting between two days. Not a hard job, even though it digs pretty deep into the engine compartment. Just keep track of what goes where and bolt placement, etc.. FCP Euro's guide is excellent for the step-by-step. When you have the intake manifold off, be sure to check the vacuum hoses that are normally tucked under it. Mine was about the same mileage and had some that were collapsed and crumbly. You should definitely clean your throttle body while you're there, too! It's an excellent opportunity to take care of any kind of normally hidden maintenance. Go step by step, reference the video anytime you have a question or a doubt and you'll be fine.
What an awesome video, thank you guys for making quality content and supplying quality parts!
Just picked up my 2005 XC70 and I'm getting ready to do this job.
I now only need to add 10 more tools to my box!
Great video, having big problems removing the banjo boot underneath the manifold. Bolt won't budge. ETM is showing faults. One step away from completing both jobs.
This video made changing made changing my clogged canister easy - Thanks for the Volvo part number for the PCV - nipple mine was cracked and clogged. Great Video !!
Excellent instruction. You may want to use coconut oil on the fittings if you need to, because silicone base lubricant contaminates AFR and narrow band O2 sensors, and cause mixture control, drivability problems and $$$ for replacement. Many O2 sensor oem suppliers have published data showing this, NTK, Denso, etc. Returned "defective" sensors showed in lab tests to be "silicone poisoned", as the leading cause of early failure. I try to assemble dry any plumbing on an intake system that utilizes oxygen sensors, w/b or n/b. Otherwise, it is one of the best vids that deal with this issue clearly.
Thanks for the tips!
Great vid, as always. That last bolt on the lower passenger side for the intake seems just about impossible to get off without removing the stat housing but Jay has a better wobble socket extension than me (which makes sense). I just ended up yanking the stat housing and getting a pseudo coolant change out of the deal.
I want to know what wobble socket that is. I want to buy it. Some 10mm 3/8" drive wobble socket.
I recently replaced the thermostat housing with a "non Volvo" housing. No way was this bolt coming out. I had to pull it also.
It seems every European car is designed in such a way that it has to go back to the dealership for most services. This is a lot of work to get to this box to replace it. This video makes it look easy, but I'm sure it will take me 4 days instead of 4 hours. Thanks for the video, it's well made.
You're welcome!
Thanks for a great video, Jay does an awesome presentation. My V60 has 240K on it and the trap was plugged. I would suggest replacing the evaporator hoses and valves while I am under there. Also a 10 mm Crowsfoot wrenched taped on the end of a ratchet extension will get the far left lower bolt, of the intake, loose and tight. Cheaper then a Wobble socket
That is a good idea. I struggled for a while with that bolt and fortunately have a set of higher quality 1/4" drive extensions with the semi-wobble end that gave just enough wiggle to get it on. The video poster looks to have stubby wobble sockets. Not something you can pick up at the local parts store.
Helped even with a P80 set up, to hell with that banjo bolt!! Didn't have a 17 stubby so with some patients and some persuasive words I got it with a 3/8 wrench and a 17mm socket!
At 7:30 that is a critical check. Even without a compressed air hose, get a regular hose and blow air by mouth: you should hear the oil bubbling inside the oil pan. If you don't hear it, chances are that oil passage is blocked and 'you must' remove the pan as Jason says, if you don't clean that passage, even with a new PCV box you'll get the engine main and cam seals blown. This is DIY on non turbo engine th-cam.com/video/3fEjbMpVSfo/w-d-xo.html and more details on accessing the bolts th-cam.com/video/8CIVJu5E-Sk/w-d-xo.html
Just curious cant you just do an oil change immediately after to flush out the crud?
@@Elliot9874 I am curious about that as well.
Awesome tip 😎. After watching video on taking the pan off, I can't tell you how thrilled that was to hear that oil a bubbling.
The passage from the Box to inside the Pan can only be cleaned by removing the Pan. I am far from a pro and pulled the pan. It is very messy like mega messy I love dirty jobs. Invest in paper towels and cleaner.
In one of your videos you do a plastic bag test on the oil cap opening. My 2004 XC70 does not have suction. So this video is how I fix that right? The whole PCV system?
This is what I call a tutorial!
Great video easy to listen to and understand, You cannot go wrong following your instruction, If you are totally Inept by all means take it to your mechanic !!
Wow, you make that look easy. Nice tutorial. I am sure it is a lot harder for most of us to do.
Excellent job man! It seems so easy when you do it! this is a complicated job but your video helps a lot, thank you!!!👍👍👍
You're welcome!
Thanks for the overview. Changed my PVC on my 04 S60 non turbo.
BTW, the bottom PVC box bolt has to be removed/installed by feel as you cant see it & requires extensions with narrow 10mm socket (no shoulder) as there is not a lot of extra room.
Or you can just rip out the trap with the bolt still fastened. The only thing that breaks is the old oil trap. Then you have excellent line of sight to the bolt.
This took me about an hour until I could get the right socket/extension combination. What a whore of a task on an already pain in the ass job.
Thanks for the video and tips. The kit you guys sent had a smaller version of the short tube that hooks up the engine body on the Breather box. A flexible tube, not the ring gasket thing that attaches rigidly to the breather box and the Engine body. I managed to reuse the old one. It appears it was far too small in diameter to fit the engine. I now have a newfound hatred for the crimp ring gaskets tho so that's a plus.
Side note tho, it appeared that my PVC box and system were not too gummed up. Not sure if this is because I've run Royal Purple in this engine for the last 5000 miles. My issue still appears to be with the miss-timing of one of the cylinders. 2 or 4 on an I5. Sometimes during acceleration above 40mph the engine will sputter and I will drop engine power. I've run a bottle of Lucas fule injector cleaner through the fule injectors and they look very clean. I did the "Lisen with a screwdriver trick" on the back of the fule injectors and they appear to all be firing. I've tried swapping out new coils, granted I use junkyard salvaged ones. It still does not appear to be these. New spark plugs were just put in 3000 miles ago. Shouldn't be those.
Great video! Good tip on the Volvo part from the T-6 to replace that banjo bolt pipe instead of the entire hose assembly.
I did this on my 2004 Volvo S60 at 104,000 miles and the access hole was 100% plugged. I did take off the oil pan (very easy compared to most other cars) and the breather channel was clogged there too. It is a square shape channel. I believe you need to take off the oil plan to get the whole system unclogged.
Doing my second PCV on a 2007 XC I bought to fully restore. One tip for thue super annoying right lower intake bolt... Get a thermostat gasket a drop the thermostat, the price of the gasket ia not worth the pain dealing with that screw.
The line that goes from the banjo to the fancy hose, I have replaced it twice with some fuel line I got on eBay many years ago and still kicking. I cut it in both ends and cleaned the banjo fitting really well. For the screw... This time i had the UNIQUE luxury to have removed all three rads and could go fro the front of the car like nothing. Since I also wanted to clean the big bracket where the Alternator/Compressor/PS pump and belt tensioner go, I did the banjo just like any other bolt since I had to put everything back together.
Next year or the one after when I do my 2006 S80 I will not have the luxury of all that space since the car is pristine ao no need to drop the rad sandwich.
This is an INSANE amount of work for this part. WHY did Volvo USE this system?! I want to do this but would never have the actual time....dang it Volvo.
crazy way over engineered. why did n t they use a simpl pcv sys like american cars
Great video J, very thorough...about to tackle this job myself!
Just got a 2007 XC70 and PCV needed to be changed. Changed the PCV but it looks like I will have to drop the oil pan as well. Do you by chance have any video or information about what I'd be looking for and how to clean that passageway? Thanks a lot for this great video which helped me do the PCV change.
that's a verry fine job you did there,a lot off work but professional done.
8:15 Replace the entire pipe! I took mine apart as I wanted to save time and agony by just replacing the passenger side hoses and once I took it apart it was filled with sludge.
How have you removed. One side is "easy" to remove, but how you did it on the other side??? Any help, advice, photos are much appreciated
@@dionescu1 The driver's side is a pain. I used a wiggle socket to get it off. Getting that banjo bolt back on with the washers may be the biggest pain in the ass I have ever encountered with a car. The passenger side banjo bolt is not much more fun either. On the passenger side put that banjo bolt on before tightening the hose to the breather box. It is at an angle so you need wiggle room. Automotive engineers piss me off to no end. I also replaced all the tiny rubber hoses with silicone hoses with the same inner diameter.
Thanks for this video. It really helped me to know what was attached to the intake manifold on the under side! I am a customer too.
I just finished my PCV system, 9 out of 10 on the pain index. The Banjo bolt is by far one of the most annoying things to get off, id definitely recommend a ratcheting stubby wrench. Also if your vehicle is high mileage, watch out for your injector plastic falling into your valves.
Love your videos. Very informative. I replaced the whole pcv kit with the big hose on our s60r.
Glad you found it informative!
Thanks! Did it thanks to that video... But many things were different or harder than expected after that video. Many Bolt were harder to reach. Many Clambs were hard to clamb after doing it the wrong sequence.
This might be the best route to take when cleaning the throttle body too. Nice 👍🏾
You can remove the throttle body without removing the intake by removing the fan and air box!
ok so my car part (ignition antenna) came 3 days too early wtf lol anyway Jason I own a 2002 S60 and would be lost without you..car runs awesome but sometimes you just have to get dirty I love my car has over 200k on it and plan on getting 200 more. Thanks for all you do ....my top 3 youtubers for cars are you , Kilmer and Chris fixx with a little eric the car guy if it's not one of you guys I won't watch
Thank you for the kind words Sean. We're glad to hear you found the DIYs helpful.
Well done. Having turbo and a throttle body below the manifold complicates things slightly. On my naturally aspirated 2002 V70, it was fairly straightforward. IT PAYS TO DO THIS JOB EARLY. I did it at 85k miles and had very little sludge.
the turbo is behind the engine not under the intake manifold
@@barrybritcherETM is below intake manifold on turbocharged cars
@@reallyhappenings5597 I know.
i remember my old honda PCV is on the engine, just have to pull it out. volvo is at a new level.
So will there be a video for dropping the oil pan coming? :) Tackling the PCV tomorrow - praying I don't have to drop the pan. Well done video.
thanks a lot for this video, just bought an s80 t6, and it starts to smell of burnt oil when its getting warm. think its this thats causes the smell
Okay, just did mine (2002 s60 2.4T, 180k miles) - there are minor differences from this video such as how the fuel line connects (weirdo connector requiring a weirdo tool to release it), my fuel supply line also comes through the intake manifold and makes a bend, adding to the difficulty removing the manifold, and there is no fuel pressure sensor - the release valve is where that sensor is. I bought the snap-on 10mm wobbly, and there was no way it was getting on that intake manifold bolt, I had to use a 1/4" drive wobbly, feed it in with one long adapter, and then add a second long adapter, and then pray and curse a lot. And that banjo bolt is no joke - annoyingly, I didn't check the new one before I put it in the car - the new banjo bolt is 19mm while the original one is 17mm, took me a little while fighting it and scraping up the back of my hand on the alternator before I figured that out. Oh, the oetiker clamp tool he's using in this video seems to clamp from the top and side, the one I bought from FCP only clamps from the front, but some large diagonal cutting pliers did the trick for cinching from the side. Other than I forgot to order a couple of clamps - so I salvaged and reused the old ones, and my order was missing one of the crush washers for the banjo bolt, the parts worked out alright. No effing way I'm ever doing this again. Oh, and the original PCV trap wasn't clogged at all, or at least not visibly. :( Took about 6 hours, start to finish with no breaks. good luck to anyone thinking about doing it.
oh, for the banjo bolt, I used flex-head ratcheting box wrenches - no way I could get a ratchet and socket on it, the alternator is too close
This was an absolutely amazing video. I thank you so much. Very clear and precise. I just bought a 2009 and I think I need to deal with the PCV system. 🙌
Happy wrenching!
Thanks for the great video. I did the job on a 2003 S60 The video makes it lot easer for me . Greetings from Holland.
Perfectly made video thanks for Saving me from blowing up my car
You're not kidding, Daniel! Happy we could help, glad you like the video!
This is July from California, I thank you for all you video that had help me completed my repair for my Volvo S60 2001. Would be niece if you can do one for how to remove the bracket that hold the power steering pump, alternator, and a/c compressor. Thank you
I love how you make it look easy to get the last bolt on the left side of the manifold. Not cool man! I can’t get this thing out for the life of it
Yeah, I'm stuck on this one, too.
Just finished disassembly: for the difficult bolt - I removed all the other bolts and then the inlet manifold could move a bit up and down. I then rotated the difficult bolt with a thin screwdriver and hammer. After a few gentle taps, the bolt was loose enough to remove the inlet manifold. With the manifold off, I can check what tool will fit on the bolt to tighten it. Already cut a 10mm socket shorter because there is very little room.
The hose to the top of the motor was completely hard and broke in several pieces. The thin hose to the banjo connection under the inlet manifold had also hardened and shattered in pieces. @2:43 where he shows the injectors: there is a plastic ring/washer (BOSCH 1 280 113 716) on top of the O-ring. One of the washers came out in pieces on my car.
3½ hours...that would take me 3½ days.
Guy is so mellow🍁
Never doubt yourself. I'm no mechanic and after watching the mello fello I can probably do it in under a month!
🤣🤣🤣 jkjk... But seriously, probably 5 hours at most in my back yard with manual tools. You don't wanna strip the block
It took me about 6 because i could not get to the lower leftmost intake bolt... the job is so easy besides that one bolt.
@@crazychivez How did you finally end up getting the bolt loosened and tightened back up?
@@notny411 theres a video on here that shows you how to do it with 1/4 sockets and hes in a junkyard. But thats how i did it
another brill step by step video jay ,you always make these look easy but at least you do give note at end that it is a bigger job.great videos .
Thank-you for your great tutorial videos. Very well done, and excellent advice. Has saved me lots of money and aggravation.
Need help with I’m in installing a pcv kit and new breather system is there another banjo bolt back there and do you have a video of showing that on p2 Volvos? I have 2004 xc70 2.5t awd doing this job tomorrow when my fcpeuroparts come in!
Woah man. You made this alot easier for me! I'm gonna change my girlfriends pcv out for her
Glad we can help, Tommy!
My car failed the check at 730 no air blows tru the oil cap. I got to drop the pan fuark! So just drop it and clean? Should i replace anything when i drop the pan?
I dropped the oil pan and cleaned the oil pickup tube and the oil port as best as i could, put it back on. Cost 35 bucks for the seals kit, anaerobic sealant and solvent. The breather box job is really hard on the back
You don't need to buy a $50+ Snap On Wobble socket to get to the left bottom intake manifold bolt.
It was much easier to remove the Thermostat which gives you full access to the bolt.
Also; you're half assing it if you don't replace all the PCV parts. I got the complete PCV tubing/parts/box including the one he did surgery on rigged for $100 at Parts Geek. ,
Part #: SK121453 for a 2007 XC70
great video, this is on my to-do list in the very near future
From tech to tech, I love you
We love you too, Vito.
man i wish someone hooked my car up with all that professional love haha
What a fantastic video and job. Will be doing this job based on this video, cheers.
Wow I don't remember how many times I watch this video thank you for sharing. It looks easy but I don't know if I can do it by myself and don't want to pay a 1000 to change that little box My car is old already and time to buy a newer one.
What 'Silicone Grease' to use ?
any materials+tools list that I can use for purchasing prepping for the job?
I dont have my pcv system placed at that location anymore on my v70. I have it install next to the filterbox with special mods looks now 100% stock like it was from factory. I can easly clean or replace it with just 2x 10mm and some hose clamps.
That sounds pretty sweet, do you have any photos?
I'd like to see that, where did you get mods?
Show us the relocate!
My question exactly!!! Where did you get the kit?
No pix or additional info, I see... 😫
All I wanna know is how you got to that bottom side manifold on the passenger side with just that straight extension. I have been working at that one bolt for 12 hours now and I cannot for the life of me get to it as simply as you did.
That’s the only thing keeping me from getting it off.
(Edit) I got that damn bolt off now I’m stuck trying to get that bottom bolt off the box 😂
I do appreciate the video it’s been a big help! Almost done
Thanks for the video! It gave me the confidence to do myself.
We love to hear that! You are very welcome, Ben!
Thanks so much for the Video! Can part #30731007 be cleaned some-how on or off the vehicle? Maybe soaking it in solvent or a degreaser and using a thin wire and air pressure through the hose to clear it?
So I ordered the kit, added injector seals, the throttle body gasket, dip stick seal and will hold off to see if I need the oil pan kit. Do you guys carry the hose clamp crimping tool? Also was sure what name the banjo crush washers would have to order them, can you point me to those? My timing belt is still dry...so not to bad yet, but no suction at the oil filler when running. Have been wondering where the oil was going...many thanks!
Best Volvo video ever.
I had to replace the first hose coming off the thermostat housing to the hard line that bend around the banjo bolt. I could miraculously do it in the space without removing anything and it ONLY took an hour. Thank FARTS URO Parts has a rebuild kit with the hoses.
Who is FARTS URO Parts? We've never heard of them 😂
@@fcpeuro is FCP not an abbreviation for "FARTS|CRAP|POOP" in reference to all the bad, cursey-swears yelled when working on these things? 😗 hahaha
6:44 love how you just gloss over the fact the 10mm on the pass side is behind the alternator bracket and completely inaccessible
For anyone trying this, I ended up removing the alt harness clamp and used a 1/4" drive 10mm on an extension to get in there. Easiest if you tackle this bolt before removing the easy one on the other side. My mistake was taking the other bolt off and the box ended up biased to the side, making access even more restricted
So true man! I got a crowfoot wrench and it worked well!
Cut down a 1/4” 10mm socket, works too
@@jeffgraybill508 no one wants to be cutting down their tools though. Literally if I lose one socket out of a set, to me the whole set is garbage unless I can find the exact replacement.
Great video but you should vacuum out the intake ports after you cleaned the surface. When you start the engine you are going to suck all that dust into the cylinder!
Also change the oil and filter after this.
I just moved from CA to GA and do not have have my tools to complete this job nor the space and time to do it in steps.
What would this job run me at a shop?
Thanks
I like the way you do the job clean pro Thanks for the video
Three things first why not change both orings on the injectors?
Another according to Vadis the bottom hose (the one in aluminium) you put it backwards.
The clogged part, the one with the banjo you can easily unclog it with a small drill no need for a new part.
Tha banjo bolt is definitely the hardest thing on this job, but thanks for the video it really helped.
This is a great video.
What mileage should the breather be serviced.
My C70 is 22 years old but has only covered 35000 miles.
Is there any maintenance I can do to avoid having to strip the breather down.
Thank you.
regular oil changes are your best bet! the enemy of the breather system is sludge, so even if you're not doing the miles, dirst still sits in the oil and it can break down so you want to change it at least one a year if not every 5-6 months
If it fail the air test, ? You said we need to drop the oil pan at that time. Does that mean you can't assemble the PCV system until the oil pan is removed clean and replaced?
Have you guys done the pcv system on a 2012 Volvo S60 ?,…
I’ve been trying to locate it ,…
There is no clear instructions on this