Links for the Parts for the PCV: Oil Trap: amzn.to/3q4OYMr Upper Hose: amzn.to/3ea4bcd Lower Hose: amzn.to/3KIcMyY Oil Trap to Block Connector: amzn.to/3RzCw33 As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases (paid link).
Thanks for this video. The last year change the pcv but not the cannister and, continues the same problem. I'm looking for the Breather system kit but it's very expensive and a lot of hours to push all the lines. Your video is the perfect and cheap solution. Thanks again.
For next time, you don’t have to remove the thermostat. Use a 10mm crows foot with extension and you only need to loosen the bolt a 1/2 turn since the manifold is slotted to lift off.
That still doesn't free the intake manifold gasket. You'd have to tear that part on removal and tge new one during install. That slightly weakens the gasket at that bolt under the thermostat. I chose to remove the thermostat housing. Ideally the PCV job is combined with timing belt which justifies replacement of thermostat and water pump.
@@reallyhappenings5597 it’s been done on nearly every job since these cars came out. As for weakening the gasket, you simply snip it on the outward side of the bolt away fr the manifold, it doesn’t affect the sealing properties to the actual intake at all.
Damn you're very creative! @12:45 I was wondering why Volvo just didn't use a rubber hose tube instead of the plastic that is prone to fail. What size is the hose OD and ID? How did it hold up over time? I also notice you used URO parts and Dorman for the box. How are those parts?
Thank you! I try since the OEM is very expensive. Not 100% sure on the hose size I just had a scrap lying around that worked but just slightly larger than that plastic I believe. Holding up great! No idea why Volvo did that. I like Dorman parts URO are sometimes questionable I think I had no choice in this case.
@@matt-diy Thank you for the response. I will source some fuel rubber hoses at the local parts store. I will bring that nipple and the barb with me so they can find the right size. Thinking of upgrading that plastic barb to a brass one too and use the 12mm ear clamps on both ends.
@@matt-diy Yeah, It's been in my garage for a little while taking up space and I planned to do the PCV and timing belt this evening. Glad I found your channel! Hope you make it big on here man!
@@Jacobtaylor1775 that’s awesome!! And how many miles? But yeah two good things to get done on these for sure haha. And thank you!! I hope it turns into something!
@@Jacobtaylor1775 Oh okay nice! Yeah, that is most likely the cause. It will start blowing seals too if left too long. When you replace it make sure you can blow into the lower engine port...should hear oil bubbling in the oil pan.
Great Video Matt. I think I'm going to have to do this to my car. I have a 2008 S80. Do you happen to know if the parts you have on there are compatible with my model? As is the box a one size fits all?
Is there a chance to clear a clogged PCV system with a cleaning liquid mixed with oil? I have a Volvo S60 AWD turbo from 2002. A cam shaft seal popped out some 2-3 years ago and was replaced. The repair shop didn't mention PVC in our discussion, maybe they didn't know about it. I myself didn't know about this PCV thing until recently. The engine has worked well since then but I am suspicious.
Yeah chances are yours is bad. Really can’t clean it because the trap is sealed and also buildup happens on the engine side that you need to clean out.
The problem I think is that the whole point of the PCV valve/breather box (from my understanding these valves do NOT have a valve, only a filter box) is to seperate the oils and sludge from the gas. So if you do put something like sea foam in the oil, it won't circulate much into your pcv system because the entire point of it is to prevent liquids from getting in much. You could try to take off the vaccuum line and spray sea foam all down in there and flood the whole breather box with it and let it sit overnight to dissolve some of the sludge, but I really doubt it would work and you might just cause more issues than it solves, I have no idea.
I cleaned my PCV system by taking off the tube on top of the engine and either sprayed a can of carburetor cleaner or poured in some Marvel Mystery oil. I did it periodically and has worked well. Oil leak and oil burning issues have been reduced significantly.
My s80 2.9 N/A have this problem when the engine oil consumption barely high (sometimes no oil pressure message) then smoke coming out from dipstick and filler hole, glove test isn't sucking in but blowing the glove.. could it be a bad pcv?
I developed an oil leak and I feel it’s from this not being replaced. I’m at 240k mikes, how screwed am I? I can’t see where the oil leak is coming from.
Oooof yeah this is definitely the cause. It’s probably leaking from the cams and the main seal. When the pcv isn’t replaced, pressure builds up and blows out engine seals. It will keep running but you’re gonna have to keep adding oil. You aren’t super screwed.
So will be replacing the cam seals and crank seal be your next how to? 😉 appreciate the response! Would it be pointless to replace the pcv at this point?
@@mcalus hahaha unfortunately not. I don’t currently have one that’s bad 😂. Yeah I don’t think it will help much at this point. I mean doing it might make it leak less because there will be less pressure on the seals and the internal vacuum will work properly, but it’s pretty far gone in your situation. It won’t really be fatal, just keep checking your oil!
Assuming its a small enough clog, could one just fill the oil system with seafoam (or any oil flush fluid) and get any gunk flushed out at the oil change? I'm trying to avoid having to dismantle the manifold like that due to time constraints, so if there's a way to get the container flushed that would be ideally quicker?
Links for the Parts for the PCV:
Oil Trap: amzn.to/3q4OYMr
Upper Hose: amzn.to/3ea4bcd
Lower Hose: amzn.to/3KIcMyY
Oil Trap to Block Connector: amzn.to/3RzCw33
As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases (paid link).
Thanks for this video. The last year change the pcv but not the cannister and, continues the same problem. I'm looking for the Breather system kit but it's very expensive and a lot of hours to push all the lines. Your video is the perfect and cheap solution. Thanks again.
You are welcome! Thanks for the comment!
For next time, you don’t have to remove the thermostat. Use a 10mm crows foot with extension and you only need to loosen the bolt a 1/2 turn since the manifold is slotted to lift off.
Good tip!
That still doesn't free the intake manifold gasket. You'd have to tear that part on removal and tge new one during install. That slightly weakens the gasket at that bolt under the thermostat. I chose to remove the thermostat housing. Ideally the PCV job is combined with timing belt which justifies replacement of thermostat and water pump.
@@reallyhappenings5597you can snip the gasket without issue, been done at every dealer for tens of thousands of jobs. It’s not an issue
@@reallyhappenings5597 it’s been done on nearly every job since these cars came out. As for weakening the gasket, you simply snip it on the outward side of the bolt away fr the manifold, it doesn’t affect the sealing properties to the actual intake at all.
Nice work keep up
Damn you're very creative! @12:45 I was wondering why Volvo just didn't use a rubber hose tube instead of the plastic that is prone to fail. What size is the hose OD and ID? How did it hold up over time? I also notice you used URO parts and Dorman for the box. How are those parts?
Thank you! I try since the OEM is very expensive. Not 100% sure on the hose size I just had a scrap lying around that worked but just slightly larger than that plastic I believe. Holding up great! No idea why Volvo did that. I like Dorman parts URO are sometimes questionable I think I had no choice in this case.
@@matt-diy Thank you for the response. I will source some fuel rubber hoses at the local parts store. I will bring that nipple and the barb with me so they can find the right size. Thinking of upgrading that plastic barb to a brass one too and use the 12mm ear clamps on both ends.
I'm actually doing the exact same thing to a 2005 S80
No way!!
@@matt-diy Yeah, It's been in my garage for a little while taking up space and I planned to do the PCV and timing belt this evening. Glad I found your channel! Hope you make it big on here man!
@@Jacobtaylor1775 that’s awesome!! And how many miles? But yeah two good things to get done on these for sure haha. And thank you!! I hope it turns into something!
@@matt-diy 150k miles. I found that my oil fill cap was all grimy underneath, I guess that is from the PCV being clogged?
@@Jacobtaylor1775 Oh okay nice! Yeah, that is most likely the cause. It will start blowing seals too if left too long. When you replace it make sure you can blow into the lower engine port...should hear oil bubbling in the oil pan.
Great Video Matt. I think I'm going to have to do this to my car. I have a 2008 S80. Do you happen to know if the parts you have on there are compatible with my model? As is the box a one size fits all?
There are some minor variations on the parts. I would double check with Rick auto or fcp euro to make sure you get the right ones!!!
Is there a chance to clear a clogged PCV system with a cleaning liquid mixed with oil? I have a Volvo S60 AWD turbo from 2002. A cam shaft seal popped out some 2-3 years ago and was replaced. The repair shop didn't mention PVC in our discussion, maybe they didn't know about it. I myself didn't know about this PCV thing until recently. The engine has worked well since then but I am suspicious.
Yeah chances are yours is bad. Really can’t clean it because the trap is sealed and also buildup happens on the engine side that you need to clean out.
The problem I think is that the whole point of the PCV valve/breather box (from my understanding these valves do NOT have a valve, only a filter box) is to seperate the oils and sludge from the gas. So if you do put something like sea foam in the oil, it won't circulate much into your pcv system because the entire point of it is to prevent liquids from getting in much.
You could try to take off the vaccuum line and spray sea foam all down in there and flood the whole breather box with it and let it sit overnight to dissolve some of the sludge, but I really doubt it would work and you might just cause more issues than it solves, I have no idea.
I cleaned my PCV system by taking off the tube on top of the engine and either sprayed a can of carburetor cleaner or poured in some Marvel Mystery oil. I did it periodically and has worked well. Oil leak and oil burning issues have been reduced significantly.
My s80 2.9 N/A have this problem when the engine oil consumption barely high (sometimes no oil pressure message) then smoke coming out from dipstick and filler hole, glove test isn't sucking in but blowing the glove.. could it be a bad pcv?
Could be although I am not as familiar with the 2.9 but the glove should never inflate.
I developed an oil leak and I feel it’s from this not being replaced. I’m at 240k mikes, how screwed am I? I can’t see where the oil leak is coming from.
Oooof yeah this is definitely the cause. It’s probably leaking from the cams and the main seal. When the pcv isn’t replaced, pressure builds up and blows out engine seals. It will keep running but you’re gonna have to keep adding oil. You aren’t super screwed.
So will be replacing the cam seals and crank seal be your next how to? 😉 appreciate the response! Would it be pointless to replace the pcv at this point?
@@mcalus hahaha unfortunately not. I don’t currently have one that’s bad 😂. Yeah I don’t think it will help much at this point. I mean doing it might make it leak less because there will be less pressure on the seals and the internal vacuum will work properly, but it’s pretty far gone in your situation. It won’t really be fatal, just keep checking your oil!
Assuming its a small enough clog, could one just fill the oil system with seafoam (or any oil flush fluid) and get any gunk flushed out at the oil change? I'm trying to avoid having to dismantle the manifold like that due to time constraints, so if there's a way to get the container flushed that would be ideally quicker?
I really don’t think seafoam would clear a blocked or broken PCV valve, best to just replace it and make sure it’s done right!