You made this video just in time (for me)! I had this exact issue, down to that specific bearing on a 2009 Outback 5MT. Thanks for making the video. It is incredibly helpful to have a video run through instead of having to figure it all out on the fly, particularly the little things to look out for along the way.
Glad you found it helpful! I wish I could tell you for certain that it's fixed but I just don't have a need to install it in my Forester right now. But the noise is definitely gone so I'm pretty positive it's sorted out
@@TwoFourSevenDIY I think you did fix it. Mine makes a noise exactly like yours did, and the noise decreases in frequency as i progress through the gears. So since the 5th gear is fixed on the "output" and shifts on the input it makes alot of sense that this bearing is bad in my transmission. Mine also won't shift into 5th, but that's a different issue. I'm wondering if I could fix this in the car. One reason it doesn't shift into 5th could be a pin has fallen out of the 5th shift fork. And I was wondering if you thought it might be possible to change the roller bearing you changed in this video with the transmission in the car?
You may have you own methods, however when it comes to rebuilding an engine, transmission, differential. Shit, even something as simple as bolting on a brake caliper. A properly calibrated torque wrench, assembly lubricant and precise torquing pattern should always be practiced. Leads to less failures down the road. An opinion is like an asshole and everyone has one. Take my reply with a grain of salt or learn from it don’t matter to me.
I'll take the salt. Torque wrenches have their place, 90% of automotive work however can be accomplished without the need of torque values, just have to use your head.
@@TwoFourSevenDIY ya automotive repairs can be accomplished without a torque wrench if your a hack job (garage mechanic) that refuses to use your head. Notice I didn’t put in a percentage of work? That’s cause precise repairs that require what I stated in the comment above don’t take up 90% of automotive repairs. Do it right or don’t do it at all.
Nice work, enjoyed your video. I had the center diff go out on my 2000 Outback, and had a couple broken pieces end up jamming my 5 speed, making it un-shiftable. Fortunately, I was in a parking lot when it got jammed up and not buzzing down the freeway so no catastrophic damage happened. A transmission guy in my area pulled out the broken pieces and put a new center diff in, and she is back on the road now. Cost me a $1000 parts and labor. I saved on R and R since I did that part myself. The transmission doesn't look too hard to work on, maybe I'll take one on myself sometime. I would think you could use any 5 speed, more or less in your Forester, as long as the gearing matches the rear diff. Some people just take the rear differential plus transmission from the same car and that seems to be a way to go. The 2000 Outback I have, was kind of a one year different then the rest, but if you do both the transmission plus rear diff I think it will work on most any Subaru models. I could be wrong about that, but its the impression I got from my research. I just realized I commented on this video a few weeks ago... damn my brain, I didn't even remember watching it before, I guess I watched you work twice haha. Twice as good a video the second time I guess!
YEAH! Bought a scrap Forester 4 years ago and swapped the entire trans' into my Legacy wagon - lower ratio - Now I have a replacement centre dif' for the original Legacy box, it's all going back in and my speedo will be telling the truth again .. ....
2:43 that is part of the syncro system, the "brake" that stops the RPM difference. Whoever is doing the clutchless shifting on trans like this, even they don't hear the grind (syncro teeth), they are putting stress on this brake which is not designed for. when the brake start to slipp, you won't get in gear.
@@TwoFourSevenDIY got it in first try after putting it into 4th gear then putting rear case on. I might make a video of it today to maybe help someone else in the future. Thanks again man 👍🏻
Great content bro i accually tear down my 5 speed tansmission yesterday i broke the 3rd gear but your videos guide me through the tear down appreciate it bro 🙏
Thanks for the video - appreciate you sharing - I'm here just to learn about Subie M/Ts - I can tell you from my experience with my Kia, this doesn't work though - whenever you have a bad needle bearing, you need to change the races too - mine made noise again after just 700 km - I rebuilt again and replaced the full gearset (minus drive gears) sleeves, and bearings and fixed for good - bearings/races have a design life, and when one fails it's best to replace all of them or else the others will eventually fail and you'll never get the same lifespan as a fully rebuilt or new trans - ultimately it comes down to your budget, needs, and time when deciding to repair or fully rebuild
@@TwoFourSevenDIY Got you - just wanted to share my experience with the same issue to hopefully help others - yes, tools are a limiting factor, but they are sometimes the only way to allow you to fix the problem - in my case, I needed a factory service manual, a shop press, and bearing separator kit, and a couple other basic tools so I could fix properly
My 5 speed in my 2000 Outback had the center diff go bad... local transmission guy charged me 500 labor and was 500 for the new center diff. Works all good now, damn Subi! $1000 bucks later she's working great again.
Unfortunately no. Fingers crossed it just sits in a corner of the shop and I never need it. But it's nice to know that I'm pretty sure it will work as a back up
It is the inner portion of the selector for 5th gear. You can see at 9:15 where I place the outer portion on it during installation. Part is "Sleeve and hub #2" number: 32239AA120
Hi i have a problem with the gear shaft, it cant trun on the both side just on one side. It cant turn on the fifth gear and the reverse.maybe someone can help me.thanks
@@TwoFourSevenDIY I have a squeak and when I push my clutch pedal in it goes away, then comes back when I release it. I read it could be the input shaft bearing
Good job but next time use user manual you make some mistakes, i hope everytink is good. If you want type me i have lot a pictures when i make my Gearbox. But good for you now :)
@@TwoFourSevenDIY 1. Does not tighten the box bolts in the correct order. 2. Did not tighten the shaft nut with the specified force 3. You didn't wash the box well and that way you risk the repair going to hell. But still, it's a small thing. 4. The method you use to open the shell with this rolbar is in danger of breaking the shell or wounding the surface and ulcerating 5. When you tightened the first bolt the shell still wasn't snug on both sides. This way you can break the casing and it won't stick well. Squeeze a little on both sides until it closes tightly. Finally tighten! I'm not writing this to nag. I'm glad you're doing this yourself. I also did it myself but I made the mistake of not changing the main bearing and now I have a slight noise. I don't care for such a small fuss to do that again. I had a bigger problem and he had broken teeth in second gear. I remove everything from the shaft and replace it. Then I put everything in order with the press.
You made this video just in time (for me)! I had this exact issue, down to that specific bearing on a 2009 Outback 5MT. Thanks for making the video. It is incredibly helpful to have a video run through instead of having to figure it all out on the fly, particularly the little things to look out for along the way.
Glad you found it helpful!
I wish I could tell you for certain that it's fixed but I just don't have a need to install it in my Forester right now. But the noise is definitely gone so I'm pretty positive it's sorted out
@@TwoFourSevenDIY I think you did fix it. Mine makes a noise exactly like yours did, and the noise decreases in frequency as i progress through the gears. So since the 5th gear is fixed on the "output" and shifts on the input it makes alot of sense that this bearing is bad in my transmission. Mine also won't shift into 5th, but that's a different issue.
I'm wondering if I could fix this in the car. One reason it doesn't shift into 5th could be a pin has fallen out of the 5th shift fork. And I was wondering if you thought it might be possible to change the roller bearing you changed in this video with the transmission in the car?
I don't think that's remotely possible
@@TwoFourSevenDIY ha ha ha I do some of my best work when people tell me it cant be done. I might try it
Ahh yes, not a torque wrench in sight as well as impacting the casing bolts in a uneven pattern. Perfection 👌🏻
Everyone has their own methods. These were mine.
Your approval however means the world to me!
You may have you own methods, however when it comes to rebuilding an engine, transmission, differential. Shit, even something as simple as bolting on a brake caliper. A properly calibrated torque wrench, assembly lubricant and precise torquing pattern should always be practiced. Leads to less failures down the road. An opinion is like an asshole and everyone has one. Take my reply with a grain of salt or learn from it don’t matter to me.
I'll take the salt. Torque wrenches have their place, 90% of automotive work however can be accomplished without the need of torque values, just have to use your head.
@@TwoFourSevenDIY ya automotive repairs can be accomplished without a torque wrench if your a hack job (garage mechanic) that refuses to use your head. Notice I didn’t put in a percentage of work? That’s cause precise repairs that require what I stated in the comment above don’t take up 90% of automotive repairs. Do it right or don’t do it at all.
I'm glad you do it right. Bully for you 👍
Great video! I'm actually about to put my 5 speed back together so this video makes it less worrysome.
Nice work, enjoyed your video. I had the center diff go out on my 2000 Outback, and had a couple broken pieces end up jamming my 5 speed, making it un-shiftable. Fortunately, I was in a parking lot when it got jammed up and not buzzing down the freeway so no catastrophic damage happened. A transmission guy in my area pulled out the broken pieces and put a new center diff in, and she is back on the road now. Cost me a $1000 parts and labor. I saved on R and R since I did that part myself. The transmission doesn't look too hard to work on, maybe I'll take one on myself sometime. I would think you could use any 5 speed, more or less in your Forester, as long as the gearing matches the rear diff. Some people just take the rear differential plus transmission from the same car and that seems to be a way to go. The 2000 Outback I have, was kind of a one year different then the rest, but if you do both the transmission plus rear diff I think it will work on most any Subaru models. I could be wrong about that, but its the impression I got from my research.
I just realized I commented on this video a few weeks ago... damn my brain, I didn't even remember watching it before, I guess I watched you work twice haha. Twice as good a video the second time I guess!
YEAH! Bought a scrap Forester 4 years ago and swapped the entire trans' into my Legacy wagon - lower ratio - Now I have a replacement centre dif' for the original Legacy box, it's all going back in and my speedo will be telling the truth again .. ....
2:43 that is part of the syncro system, the "brake" that stops the RPM difference. Whoever is doing the clutchless shifting on trans like this, even they don't hear the grind (syncro teeth), they are putting stress on this brake which is not designed for. when the brake start to slipp, you won't get in gear.
Came here just to watch how you did the shift rod lol. Gonna give it another try tonight 😂. Thanks for the video 👍🏻
Dude the shift rod was such a pain! So satisfying when I finally got it right
@@TwoFourSevenDIY I was happy when I got the transmission all back together… then tried shifting it and wouldn’t budge 😂.
@@TwoFourSevenDIY got it in first try after putting it into 4th gear then putting rear case on. I might make a video of it today to maybe help someone else in the future. Thanks again man 👍🏻
Great content bro i accually tear down my 5 speed tansmission yesterday i broke the 3rd gear but your videos guide me through the tear down appreciate it bro 🙏
Thanks man! Good luck on getting it fixed!
Thanks for the video - appreciate you sharing - I'm here just to learn about Subie M/Ts - I can tell you from my experience with my Kia, this doesn't work though - whenever you have a bad needle bearing, you need to change the races too - mine made noise again after just 700 km - I rebuilt again and replaced the full gearset (minus drive gears) sleeves, and bearings and fixed for good - bearings/races have a design life, and when one fails it's best to replace all of them or else the others will eventually fail and you'll never get the same lifespan as a fully rebuilt or new trans - ultimately it comes down to your budget, needs, and time when deciding to repair or fully rebuild
I hear you, I would have loved to replace both but the inner race was pressed on and dont have the necessary tools to replace that.
@@TwoFourSevenDIY Got you - just wanted to share my experience with the same issue to hopefully help others - yes, tools are a limiting factor, but they are sometimes the only way to allow you to fix the problem - in my case, I needed a factory service manual, a shop press, and bearing separator kit, and a couple other basic tools so I could fix properly
My 5 speed in my 2000 Outback had the center diff go bad... local transmission guy charged me 500 labor and was 500 for the new center diff. Works all good now, damn Subi! $1000 bucks later she's working great again.
Glad you got the problem sorted out!
I always like to get all bolts started before any are tightened down!
Great vid, thanks for the info. Did you get to test the gearbox yet?
Unfortunately no.
Fingers crossed it just sits in a corner of the shop and I never need it.
But it's nice to know that I'm pretty sure it will work as a back up
Thanks for finishing out this series on the 5-speed MT. Where are you buying your Subaru parts from?
I usually use TheSubaruSource when buying OEM parts
Great stuff!
Thanks!
great Vid, thanks heaps
Thanks! Glad you found it helpful
It’s probably the flanged bearing on the pink. Shaft
What is that first gear past the washer and nut(with the straight cut gears) for?
I can't remember off the top of my head, give me a chance to look at the part diagrams, I should have an answer for you by tomorrow
It is the inner portion of the selector for 5th gear. You can see at 9:15 where I place the outer portion on it during installation. Part is "Sleeve and hub #2" number: 32239AA120
That’s the bearing cage neither the inner or outer race
Hi i have a problem with the gear shaft, it cant trun on the both side just on one side. It cant turn on the fifth gear and the reverse.maybe someone can help me.thanks
Sounds like you would need to open it up and see what's gone wrong
does this happen to be the same 5 speed in the 2006 outback 2.5xt?
It may be very similar, but I don't think it's the same. The part # only show compatibility with 09-13 Foresters
@@TwoFourSevenDIY ok thanks man
@@TwoFourSevenDIY I have a squeak and when I push my clutch pedal in it goes away, then comes back when I release it. I read it could be the input shaft bearing
It's possible
Good job but next time use user manual you make some mistakes, i hope everytink is good. If you want type me i have lot a pictures when i make my Gearbox. But good for you now :)
Thanks! Feel free to let me know what I did wrong
@@TwoFourSevenDIY
1. Does not tighten the box bolts in the correct order.
2. Did not tighten the shaft nut with the specified force
3. You didn't wash the box well and that way you risk the repair going to hell. But still, it's a small thing.
4. The method you use to open the shell with this rolbar is in danger of breaking the shell or wounding the surface and ulcerating
5. When you tightened the first bolt the shell still wasn't snug on both sides. This way you can break the casing and it won't stick well. Squeeze a little on both sides until it closes tightly. Finally tighten!
I'm not writing this to nag. I'm glad you're doing this yourself. I also did it myself but I made the mistake of not changing the main bearing and now I have a slight noise. I don't care for such a small fuss to do that again. I had a bigger problem and he had broken teeth in second gear. I remove everything from the shaft and replace it. Then I put everything in order with the press.