Brian, despite the lack of polish this is still an excellent video!....I believe most of us who tune in are not here for polish, we're here for the information and professionalism you exhibit. Thanks very much for a simple answer to a very common problem!!
Thanks for sharing, I am your target audience, starting to rebuild classic SBC for Asphalt Super Late Model oval track racing, My first car as a teen was a 1969 Z/28 Camaro , no lie was in an accident, cost $700 in 1977, needed driver door and 1/4 panel, learned to build the 302, from Bill Jenkins book ! I'm now 63 and disabled so have lots of time for R&D. All my efforts are funded by my SSI, what the house and wife don't get. I know I'm rambling but I know you can tell where I'm coming from. So your help is really appreciated and you are doing a GREAT job. Ignore haters 🙏
No nonsense, very critical information for a race engine application loads is highly appreciated and will be passed to a young up and comer...🤔✌️🙏💪☝️🇺🇲💥
Whatever you do please don't get discouraged. I love all of your videos. I appreciate you putting out these nuggets of information that took you years to learn. I have been an automotive technician for almost 35 years and I know how it feels to think why give out my hard earned information to people for free that don't appreciate nothing. Mr Salter I promise that you will make a difference. Listen, from one ole school man to another I know where you are coming from sir. It's tough to put up with this new generation sometimes. Alot of the tricks we learned we got from someone and then there's the fact that we are smart and figured out alot on our own. Please don't change how you are doing things and keep the great content coming.
I agree with you 100%. I've worked on motorcycles since 1968 and had to figure out a lot of things that were never thought of by the original design engineers (or, if modifications were made in subsequent model years, no mention was made in service updates or manuals)
Thanks Brian!! Writing this down in the little black book of tricks! 👍 P.S. If it's one thing I can't stand, it's Hollywood crap!! Don't need no fancy intro or outros, no fancy camera work, just need solid, usable information, and it's golden!! If I want fancy, I'll go to a movie theater. Let the sheep go for all the fancy nonsensical crap, people who want to learn will always appreciate someone who gets to the point with no BS'ing around! You're doing amazing Brian, don't sweat it!
You just saved me some money,the number one issue I have with my airplane engines is thrust bearings,just imagine a propeller bolted to the crankshaft of a 550 cubic inch 6 cylinder pulling the plane skyward,thrust load is massive
@@muskyelondragon: and just think MOTOR cycle engines use large ball bearing s for the main bearings.. ( now they probably have the least amount of thrust end load Though )
@@jeffcreel5508timkin, nsk , skf all the major bearing companys probably have something that will work. I know most drag engines have the block(behind first main) and crank machined to accept it just in front of the first throw on the crank.
It seems to me that all the oil flowing into and thru the bearing must escape thru the thrust surfaces. Do we think scavenging oil from the journal surface increases flow?
With the information provided, nobody should ne complaining about any video quality what so ever. That’s a smart modification for sure. I’ve done this for years myself. The method and detail in the example are very much and improvement over the way I have been. I’ll be following suit. Thank you so much Mr.Salter!
Thank you. I always wondered about the way that Smoky Yunick done it champfering both halves all the way across. I will do it your way. You proved it these days!
Hey Brian, Tim here, so you DID watch my sub's vid on thrust bearing failure......I told him I always work for 5, instead of the min of 3.....he's a meticulous, OCD guy, rite up our alley.....SUPER BEST, COOL TRICK i ever seen.....makes PERFECT sense.......OH, THANK YOU Brother for a kick ASS vid!!......homie now has .006 to .007 thrust now.......but at .003, YOUR mod wudda worked!!!......just still tight in my book.....but WOW!!....ON POINT!!!....TY sir!!!......love it......just love it!!
The quality of the video was perfect, it contained great knowledge. Thank you. When you mentioned the trans putting a bind on it, it brought to mind of insuring that ones bellhousing is properly indexed to the crank to stop a possible bind point. Again, thanks for sharing.
Bill Jenkins first referenced this in his chevrolet racing engine book 40 plus years ago. It is common knowledge today among engine pro's. This is a good modification to make. But would add there are many other things to consider in preserving thrust life. Good reference. 👍
I have been vacuuming up engine tech from youtube for a decade, the things I have learned here I have never seen even mentioned. This is excellent, really appreciate your work Brian, thanks from Australia.
I’ve seen this trick done by turbo John on his sbc when he was rebuilding it one time. He did it a little different than you, but very similar. Great tip to do. I’d say stick cars would be very beneficial.
Perfect quality imo, diagrams and presentation examples drive the concept home perfectly Salter! Suscribed, definitely following for more engine tricks!
Thank you for your time to share your knowledge and experience with these simple tips that can make a big difference in our engine building. I'm glad you spoke about the thrust failure video .I could not figure how he was able to run the engine on a test stand with no problem and immediately have a issue on the dyno. Binding would make sense. Again thank for your time and experience.
Yes, I've been doing that exact thing on EVERY engine for over 40 years, even stock rebuilds, for exactly the same reasoning! Hopefully it's more "great minds think alike", rather than "fools seldom differ" 👍😎😄 It's not just clutches that load the thrust bearing, but torque converts do too! Don't know if you're aware of it, but in Aussie they're replacing the "plain" thrust bearings with Torrington taper roller bearings, to make sure the thrust lives. Forgot, some builders will drill through the side of the bearing and into the oil feed drilling for the mains', which works, too, but I've always thought to be a bit too much trouble.
I align with your videos. I always look at engineered components and think of mods constantly. I'm usually correct on fab. Good Stuff man. Keep it coming. Much appreciated. and darn Rootn tootn message at end. Let's Go
That is brilliantly simple and much easier than drilling a 1/32" hole through bearing web in block into oil passage on the main thrust face. I guess you could relieve the edge the same amount as normal bearing clearance? I've worked on motorcycle for decades but never heard of this before (inline fours since the 1980's have been plain bearing)If I ever get around to doing pick up motor I'll be doing this.
nice looking crank on the MOPARS we lost thrusts mostly with the stick shift cars or a balloned converter We had a pipeline to engineering and regularly wrote to them IT took Chrysler years to increase the thrust size.\\ Oil want to go out the front of the bearing On my blocks I'd drill thru the thrust into the oil passages you have a neat trick no block machining luv it Did you ever notch the main saddles around to the parting line and feed the crank at the parting line.? works good I've chamfered the parting lines but both sides and nothing special on the ends toward the thrust great you can use a bearing scraper
Thanks Brian. I clicked LIKE, like you said. Never realised the clutch throwout is pushing on the cranks thrust. Chevy did it right having the thrust at the back of the cranks. With a heavy pressure plate it could be hundreds of pounds pressure thru the cranks onto the thrust. Something I think would help engines a lot: some kind of electric preoiler. Hold it on for a while before cranking, and let it off once running. Makes sure all the rods have oil before turning. An idea for a video. Down under in Australia we all pretty worried about state of things with uncle Sam, hope it can be solved in the election. Good luck.
Good video. Cool trick. Cut small oil channels to bleed extra oil into the thrust bearings. Good to hear it hasn’t hurt anything in 30 years. I would worry that it could starve the crank main bearing and slightly reduce oil pressure. Voting Kamanist Harris all the way 🤮 Too bad Benedict Donald sold out the country to big pharma 😭
I never considered the thrust aspect, but run auto trans usually. Look into block oil improvements- one is something missing I see on your engine. The plate that the filter spins onto (forget the name at the moment) should be 180° from how you have it mounted now. What you have chokes down the flow but flip it 180 and the port is wide open. You won’t see that difference in psi but if you measure flow using a drive tool you can easily see the difference.
@@hummervs3278 you are correct That actually is gone we use the bypass adapter not sure who put that on like that. Remember you're looking at a tear down Yep you are correct it is wrong
Hey Brian, thank you so much for your information but I am concerned about the damage that was done to your shop and it’s content. I hope you are able to get through. This is so sad that this happens hopefully it’ll just make you stronger and hopefully more prepared my wife and I considered moving to Florida years ago, but after, watching all the news with the hurricane we will stay on the West Coast. The weather is milder without my home being blown away or shop. God bless. Better luck in the future Jack.
Had to replace a little 80sToyota 4banger once with 300plus k's . Still ran fine but lost alot of oil past the front crank seal when the clutch was depressed . Theres yerproblem lady ! Took the pan off to see what could be done but the thrust had completely left the building and the crank was working its way smoothly into the main brg webs. Talk about end play...mustabeen atleast a quarter inch !Manual trans, sittin with the pedal down ! That loads gotta go sumwar !
I saw the Golds Garage video. This makes perfect sense to me. Will be taking this extra step the next engine i put together. Do automatics suffer this problem? Thanks Mr Salter.
That is a good little idea. But you talk about the oil getting trapped? Your beaveled edge actually opens up a passage to the oil groove in the bottom (?) bearing shell anyway.
Read 'em and weep . Very rare , myself and only seen one other , but of course there must be more , most everybody rocks the crank back and forth when just starting the bolts , good , then some rock the cap as they snug the cap , better , but I force the crank as hard forward , after rocking ,( within reason ) as I can and hold it till I get north of 70 pounds on the bolts or studs , better yet . This of course is the way the clutch pushes the crank . Sometimes getting a thou more clearance , and seating the flanges for better heat transfer ,,, ! ,,, on edit : and yes seen similar and have done it myself ; however not as well thought out as Bryan . I usually don't bother because the stock bearings have some gap there , but not as much as Bryan . Also very few circle or road race engines here .
You do know that torque thrust is far greater than pushing on a pressure plate, the majority of thrust is on the opposite side, there’s a reason that the thrust bearing has flanges on both sides, I remember reading a ford manual for the FE and it said set thrust bearing to the rear, which makes more sense, it seems to me that everyone with half a brain ( I’m including myself) can’t agree on anything, myself, I make sure the flanges line up and finish tourqing, once bearing crush takes place, they’re not moving
@@alanmeyers3957,,, it's obviously the pressure from the clutch . I've got 70 years in this ( some of it actually working ) and almost all the problems came from the clutch . It's not so much the amount of pressure , but rather the amount of time a foot is on the pedal ; however had a successful Pro Stock friend of mine that had toooo long of a tranny input shaft that was eating thrust bearings .
Dam Brian!! I wish I had known this years ago. Nice nice tip. Thank you. The thing I would love to know is oil pressure? Mine has 20-25 warm10- 40 Amsoil . I know the old saying about the crank and should be good. But is it? Yes it’s got a high volume pump and it is a mopar. But a pro like you should be able to tell me I am F ! Or I could go 100,000 like that. But what a cool trick you on this video. Thank you again.
Ive etched the block to come out the side, small bit through the bearing just because i didnt want to take oil away from the bottom shell. Ive done the same with lifters also and let me tell you it takes the smallest little scratch or youll flood it to death.
I don’t know about you but I’ve been racing for 40 years and still at it just drag now .I always use a accusump I burnt up my first 6 cylinder circle track motor because the rules said no modifications at all to the oil pan it was a high bank asphalt track lots of g force . never burnt one up ever since we cut a grove in the brg itself from the oil hole about ..010 deep front to rear I like your idea better . Accusump the next best thing to dry sump . I have one in my drag car now lots of drivers shut the engine as soon as it crosses the line but the transmission stops pumping lube oil so I’m not a fan of that even though it works for some racers .
What about engines with center thrust bearing surfaces or even two pieces bearing & thrust that is found on import engines & LS generations. The imports have selectable outside diameter for proper crush and stamped on the block. Plus instead of 0.008” - 0.0010” they are half that end play. Do dual clutch Tremec transmissions push the crank with less force or more? These variables need the light of day upon them.
@@deankay4434 hey that's a great question and it works exactly the same. If you notice in the drawing I'm actually not doing anything to the thrust surface itself I'm actually chamfering the actual main bearing. So if you can go back and watch it very closely especially when I talk about it on the board and you'll see exactly how it's done and how it works. But you're actually taking the main bearing and forcing oil forward and rearward but you have to chamfer it exactly as I show.
@@SalterRacingEngines I saw it an understood your intended meaning. After 38+ yrs in dealers & shop, I had over a year teaching at UTI, the original. Then, over a decade later I ended up on contract with Raytheon doing tech seminars for ACDelco in 7 upper Midwest States. Holding 4 each week in a different city. 13 tech schools for 2 day classes and 5 warehouse to review alleged defects. I was brutal. One thing I learned at UTI with basically kids, is the instructor needs to provide up to 3 different ways to teach a concept. Like torque converters. We’ve all seen two fans blowing air, but multiplying using a stator is redirection. I used a cannon ball on a chain. Swinging two feet of chain overhead, you may stop it with your hand! Multiply that by redirecting the force increases. So now a 6 foot chain at the same speed! Harder to stop? Damn straight! They got it. A longer chain, but longer path of fluid travel hits the impeller harder. Long path, more speed = torque multiplication. Thanks kindly for sharing!
Brian, despite the lack of polish this is still an excellent video!....I believe most of us who tune in are not here for polish, we're here for the information and professionalism you exhibit. Thanks very much for a simple answer to a very common problem!!
Always have to be that 1 or in this case 26 guys 🤦🏼. Just watch the vid and listen To his tip /advice. 🤫
👍🏾
Totally agree. No need to watch twice. Picked up what you were laying down! 👏
Thanks for sharing, I am your target audience, starting to rebuild classic SBC for Asphalt Super Late Model oval track racing, My first car as a teen was a 1969 Z/28 Camaro , no lie was in an accident, cost $700 in 1977, needed driver door and 1/4 panel, learned to build the 302, from Bill Jenkins book ! I'm now 63 and disabled so have lots of time for R&D. All my efforts are funded by my SSI, what the house and wife don't get. I know I'm rambling but I know you can tell where I'm coming from. So your help is really appreciated and you are doing a GREAT job. Ignore haters 🙏
No nonsense, very critical information for a race engine application loads is highly appreciated and will be passed to a young up and comer...🤔✌️🙏💪☝️🇺🇲💥
Whatever you do please don't get discouraged. I love all of your videos. I appreciate you putting out these nuggets of information that took you years to learn. I have been an automotive technician for almost 35 years and I know how it feels to think why give out my hard earned information to people for free that don't appreciate nothing. Mr Salter I promise that you will make a difference. Listen, from one ole school man to another I know where you are coming from sir. It's tough to put up with this new generation sometimes. Alot of the tricks we learned we got from someone and then there's the fact that we are smart and figured out alot on our own. Please don't change how you are doing things and keep the great content coming.
I agree with you 100%.
I've worked on motorcycles since 1968 and had to figure out a lot of things that were never thought of by the original design engineers (or, if modifications were made in subsequent model years, no mention was made in service updates or manuals)
Thanks Brian!! Writing this down in the little black book of tricks! 👍
P.S. If it's one thing I can't stand, it's Hollywood crap!! Don't need no fancy intro or outros, no fancy camera work, just need solid, usable information, and it's golden!! If I want fancy, I'll go to a movie theater. Let the sheep go for all the fancy nonsensical crap, people who want to learn will always appreciate someone who gets to the point with no BS'ing around! You're doing amazing Brian, don't sweat it!
Please keep your videos coming. We don't care about the production, we just want the information. Thanks for everything
You just saved me some money,the number one issue I have with my airplane engines is thrust bearings,just imagine a propeller bolted to the crankshaft of a 550 cubic inch 6 cylinder pulling the plane skyward,thrust load is massive
How about a roller thrust bearing? Big power drag race engines use them very successfully.
@@muskyelondragon: and just think MOTOR cycle engines use large ball bearing s for the main bearings.. ( now they probably have the least amount of thrust end load Though )
@@muskyelondragon great idea,who makes them.
@@jeffcreel5508timkin, nsk , skf all the major bearing companys probably have something that will work. I know most drag engines have the block(behind first main) and crank machined to accept it just in front of the first throw on the crank.
It seems to me that all the oil flowing into and thru the bearing must escape thru the thrust surfaces. Do we think scavenging oil from the journal surface increases flow?
With the information provided, nobody should ne complaining about any video quality what so ever.
That’s a smart modification for sure. I’ve done this for years myself. The method and detail in the example are very much and improvement over the way I have been.
I’ll be following suit. Thank you so much Mr.Salter!
It’s not polished presentation that counts, it’s the message. Great tip! Thanks
Your golden nuggets of knowledge are very appreciated brother...
Thx again
Your videos are just fine, we're looking for a pro builder not a pro video guy
Top Notch, No Extras, cutting to the chase 🏁🏁🏁 Just the way we like ya Brian. Never Change a thing.
Quickly becoming my favourite TH-cam Channel. Glad you got it started.
Thank you. I always wondered about the way that Smoky Yunick done it champfering both halves all the way across. I will do it your way. You proved it these days!
Hi Brian. Thank you for the tip. Something so simple might help a lot."The difference is in the details" Andrew
Super killer tip Brian! Sending this to my machinist. Hopefully he doesn't hate my guts after this build. 😂
Thank you, Brian. That will help my street engine with a manual transmission live longer.
Chamfering the bearings is definitely not to be forgotten! Great video!
Hey Brian,
Tim here, so you DID watch my sub's vid on thrust bearing failure......I told him I always work for 5, instead of the min of 3.....he's a meticulous, OCD guy, rite up our alley.....SUPER BEST, COOL TRICK i ever seen.....makes PERFECT sense.......OH, THANK YOU Brother for a kick ASS vid!!......homie now has .006 to .007 thrust now.......but at .003, YOUR mod wudda worked!!!......just still tight in my book.....but WOW!!....ON POINT!!!....TY sir!!!......love it......just love it!!
The quality of the video was perfect, it contained great knowledge. Thank you. When you mentioned the trans putting a bind on it, it brought to mind of insuring that ones bellhousing is properly indexed to the crank to stop a possible bind point. Again, thanks for sharing.
I saw it immediately in your illustration. Genius!!!!
Me too, it beats me why after-market has not picked up on this, like years ago.
Bill Jenkins first referenced this in his chevrolet racing engine book 40 plus years ago. It is common knowledge today among engine pro's. This is a good modification to make. But would add there are many other things to consider in preserving thrust life.
Good reference. 👍
This is gold! I am definitely utilizing what you've taught here in my next build!
Hope you can do a video on wet simp oil pumps. When to use a high volume oil pump or not and oil pump mods. Thanks for the great videos!
I have been vacuuming up engine tech from youtube for a decade, the things I have learned here I have never seen even mentioned. This is excellent, really appreciate your work Brian, thanks from Australia.
Well done, Brian. Another outstanding hard core tech video explained in simple terms. Thanks for sharing your tips.
yesterday I installed a thrust bearing in my cad 500 . I'm going to tear it down and follow your gold nugget.
As always the information is priceless!! Thank you!!!
I’ve seen this trick done by turbo John on his sbc when he was rebuilding it one time. He did it a little different than you, but very similar. Great tip to do. I’d say stick cars would be very beneficial.
Very few people don't know this. I do understand your reasoning for this.
Smart video I used to modify both sides but this is excellent. And make sure the crank thrush side has been polished.
This is gold, and may help prevent silver (in your/my oil pan). Thank you sir.
Gold’s Garage i agree with you I don’t think it’s anything he did wrong he’s pretty knowledgeable.
Great information, thanks.
I think you're right about what happened to AG's engine on the dyno.
Perfect quality imo, diagrams and presentation examples drive the concept home perfectly Salter!
Suscribed, definitely following for more engine tricks!
Its nice to actually learn somthing on a video on youtube.
People tell me im stupid and that does no good. I keep doing it and wont stop.
Great video learned this in the 80s has never failed it really works/helps
Thank you for your time to share your knowledge and experience with these simple tips that can make a big difference in our engine building. I'm glad you spoke about the thrust failure video .I could not figure how he was able to run the engine on a test stand with no problem and immediately have a issue on the dyno. Binding would make sense. Again thank for your time and experience.
Yes, I've been doing that exact thing on EVERY engine for over 40 years, even stock rebuilds, for exactly the same reasoning! Hopefully it's more "great minds think alike", rather than "fools seldom differ" 👍😎😄
It's not just clutches that load the thrust bearing, but torque converts do too!
Don't know if you're aware of it, but in Aussie they're replacing the "plain" thrust bearings with Torrington taper roller bearings, to make sure the thrust lives.
Forgot, some builders will drill through the side of the bearing and into the oil feed drilling for the mains', which works, too, but I've always thought to be a bit too much trouble.
I used to never like a video unless I thought I’d come back to it, lol. I said screw it’s now, I like all my peeps videos.
Thank you for showing us all, this oiling trick. Very smart! You are very much appreciated! 👍
Based upon the comments from Al in his latest video, you were 100% right. The dyno wiped the thrust bearing.
Makes total sense. I love seeing little things like this that came from ideas of very smart men. Thanks for sharing Brian
Thank you for sharing these tech tips I appreciate the time you spend to make your viewers better engine builders.
Beveled edges allow easier flow of oil onto a shelf on other side.
I align with your videos. I always look at engineered components and think of mods constantly. I'm usually correct on fab. Good Stuff man. Keep it coming. Much appreciated. and darn Rootn tootn message at end. Let's Go
That is brilliantly simple and much easier than drilling a 1/32" hole through bearing web in block into oil passage on the main thrust face.
I guess you could relieve the edge the same amount as normal bearing clearance?
I've worked on motorcycle for decades but never heard of this before (inline fours since the 1980's have been plain bearing)If I ever get around to doing pick up motor I'll be doing this.
Give it a try .
Won’t hurt.
Like they say 25% of the time it works 100% of the time.
Thanks 🙏🏻 Brian!!! Great stuff. And yes, do your civic duty and Vote! 🗳️
Listening to your cam right now!!!!! SOUNDS GREAT!!!!!
nice looking crank on the MOPARS we lost thrusts mostly with the stick shift cars or a balloned converter We had a pipeline to engineering and regularly wrote to them IT took Chrysler years to increase the thrust size.\\
Oil want to go out the front of the bearing On my blocks I'd drill thru the thrust into the oil passages you have a neat trick no block machining luv it
Did you ever notch the main saddles around to the parting line and feed the crank at the parting line.? works good
I've chamfered the parting lines but both sides and nothing special on the ends toward the thrust great you can use a bearing scraper
This is a big help. I have done this before and it works. I love your videos and try to watch all of them.
Thanks!
Thank you sir
So little for what you share. You deserve way more.
This is badass! Doing this to all my enigne builds from now on!
Love that message at the end! Be good folks!
I immediately subscribed. Great video and I'll be using this info. I use the trans break and 2 step regularly
great info, thank you for sharing, side note, remember this, voting is consent to be governed.
Thanks Brian. I clicked LIKE, like you said. Never realised the clutch throwout is pushing on the cranks thrust. Chevy did it right having the thrust at the back of the cranks. With a heavy pressure plate it could be hundreds of pounds pressure thru the cranks onto the thrust. Something I think would help engines a lot: some kind of electric preoiler. Hold it on for a while before cranking, and let it off once running. Makes sure all the rods have oil before turning. An idea for a video. Down under in Australia we all pretty worried about state of things with uncle Sam, hope it can be solved in the election. Good luck.
I actually had a 289 ford wear a groove in the thrust area on the crank, been doing this every since good info
brian thats great trick, ive been doin that since the 80s great video thank you
I had new crank the trust was 4. Sanded on glass 2000. Finshed got to 5.2 stick shift car.😊
Good video. Cool trick. Cut small oil channels to bleed extra oil into the thrust bearings. Good to hear it hasn’t hurt anything in 30 years. I would worry that it could starve the crank main bearing and slightly reduce oil pressure.
Voting Kamanist Harris all the way 🤮
Too bad Benedict Donald sold out the country to big pharma 😭
I've never done it like this, but will try it next time. Thank you.
I never considered the thrust aspect, but run auto trans usually.
Look into block oil improvements- one is something missing I see on your engine.
The plate that the filter spins onto (forget the name at the moment) should be 180° from how you have it mounted now. What you have chokes down the flow but flip it 180 and the port is wide open. You won’t see that difference in psi but if you measure flow using a drive tool you can easily see the difference.
@@hummervs3278 you are correct
That actually is gone we use the bypass adapter not sure who put that on like that.
Remember you're looking at a tear down
Yep you are correct it is wrong
Thanks Brian another tip I'd never heard about
Hey Brian, thank you so much for your information but I am concerned about the damage that was done to your shop and it’s content. I hope you are able to get through. This is so sad that this happens hopefully it’ll just make you stronger and hopefully more prepared my wife and I considered moving to Florida years ago, but after, watching all the news with the hurricane we will stay on the West Coast. The weather is milder without my home being blown away or shop. God bless. Better luck in the future Jack.
Not an engine builder, but I get what your doing 💯..
10 thou seems to be a lot I've measured them at 1.5 to 3 thou before I like the bearing mod
Thanks, looking forward to see all the stuff in your suitcase
Video is fine , makes perfect sense .
Wow, that makes so much sense. You have so many great ideas.Thank you, Leo
Had to replace a little 80sToyota 4banger once with 300plus k's .
Still ran fine but lost alot of oil past the front crank seal when the clutch was depressed . Theres yerproblem lady ! Took the pan off to see what could be done but the thrust had completely left the building and the crank was working its way smoothly into the main brg webs. Talk about end play...mustabeen atleast a quarter inch !Manual trans, sittin with the pedal down ! That loads gotta go sumwar !
I saw the Golds Garage video. This makes perfect sense to me. Will be taking this extra step the next engine i put together. Do automatics suffer this problem? Thanks Mr Salter.
Yes. Torque converter is pushing on crank under heavy loads.
Simple. Effective. Brilliant. 🎉THANKS🎉
Wow another great tip Brian!, thanks. God bless
I will always hold the clutch and be in gear at a stop sign. Neutral is a death sentence
You always make sense!👍
Thank you sir! May I have another? 😊
That is a good little idea. But you talk about the oil getting trapped? Your beaveled edge actually opens up a passage to the oil groove in the bottom (?) bearing shell anyway.
Thanks for the tips brain cant wait to see what your next trick is
Nice trick! This video is 1 month late as I already assembled the engine 😄
Read 'em and weep . Very rare , myself and only seen one other , but of course there must be more , most everybody rocks the crank back and forth when just starting the bolts , good , then some rock the cap as they snug the cap , better , but I force the crank as hard forward , after rocking ,( within reason ) as I can and hold it till I get north of 70 pounds on the bolts or studs , better yet . This of course is the way the clutch pushes the crank . Sometimes getting a thou more clearance , and seating the flanges for better heat transfer ,,, ! ,,, on edit : and yes seen similar and have done it myself ; however not as well thought out as Bryan . I usually don't bother because the stock bearings have some gap there , but not as much as Bryan . Also very few circle or road race engines here .
YEP
You do know that torque thrust is far greater than pushing on a pressure plate, the majority of thrust is on the opposite side, there’s a reason that the thrust bearing has flanges on both sides, I remember reading a ford manual for the FE and it said set thrust bearing to the rear, which makes more sense, it seems to me that everyone with half a brain ( I’m including myself) can’t agree on anything, myself, I make sure the flanges line up and finish tourqing, once bearing crush takes place, they’re not moving
@@alanmeyers3957,,, it's obviously the pressure from the clutch . I've got 70 years in this ( some of it actually working ) and almost all the problems came from the clutch . It's not so much the amount of pressure , but rather the amount of time a foot is on the pedal ; however had a successful Pro Stock friend of mine that had toooo long of a tranny input shaft that was eating thrust bearings .
Dam Brian!! I wish I had known this years ago. Nice nice tip. Thank you. The thing I would love to know is oil pressure? Mine has 20-25 warm10- 40 Amsoil . I know the old saying about the crank and should be good. But is it? Yes it’s got a high volume pump and it is a mopar. But a pro like you should be able to tell me I am F ! Or I could go 100,000 like that. But what a cool trick you on this video. Thank you again.
That was a great tip, thank you for sharing.
more more more ,this stuff is gold!!
EXCELLENT MOD however I'm surprised you didn't mention INDEXING the thrust bearing
Interesting idea, never have considered (nor heard of) this.
I really enjoyed your video and thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience with us. Awesome!
Quality is fine.
Another trick I’ll remember thank you.
Content of your videos is great.
Ive etched the block to come out the side, small bit through the bearing just because i didnt want to take oil away from the bottom shell. Ive done the same with lifters also and let me tell you it takes the smallest little scratch or youll flood it to death.
Another cheat code, disable the clutch saftey switch so u dont need to push it in to start a dry engine.
Dang Have to tear down my 355 for Blower but at least the pan is still off Thanks thats realy cool
thank you Brian, very informative.
Excellent advice 👍
Thrust is what I do with the old lady 😂
So where the chamfer is cut wont starve that half of the bearing on the journal area?
@@richardnelson2519 not at All great question
Brilliant idea! Thanks for sharing!
Great content ! Thanks for sharing this information !
I don’t know about you but I’ve been racing for 40 years and still at it just drag now .I always use a accusump I burnt up my first 6 cylinder circle track motor because the rules said no modifications at all to the oil pan it was a high bank asphalt track lots of g force . never burnt one up ever since we cut a grove in the brg itself from the oil hole about ..010 deep front to rear I like your idea better . Accusump the next best thing to dry sump . I have one in my drag car now lots of drivers shut the engine as soon as it crosses the line but the transmission stops pumping lube oil so I’m not a fan of that even though it works for some racers .
great vidoes and information✌️
What about engines with center thrust bearing surfaces or even two pieces bearing & thrust that is found on import engines & LS generations. The imports have selectable outside diameter for proper crush and stamped on the block. Plus instead of 0.008” - 0.0010” they are half that end play. Do dual clutch Tremec transmissions push the crank with less force or more? These variables need the light of day upon them.
@@deankay4434 hey that's a great question and it works exactly the same. If you notice in the drawing I'm actually not doing anything to the thrust surface itself I'm actually chamfering the actual main bearing. So if you can go back and watch it very closely especially when I talk about it on the board and you'll see exactly how it's done and how it works. But you're actually taking the main bearing and forcing oil forward and rearward but you have to chamfer it exactly as I show.
@@SalterRacingEngines I saw it an understood your intended meaning. After 38+ yrs in dealers & shop, I had over a year teaching at UTI, the original. Then, over a decade later I ended up on contract with Raytheon doing tech seminars for ACDelco in 7 upper Midwest States. Holding 4 each week in a different city. 13 tech schools for 2 day classes and 5 warehouse to review alleged defects. I was brutal. One thing I learned at UTI with basically kids, is the instructor needs to provide up to 3 different ways to teach a concept. Like torque converters. We’ve all seen two fans blowing air, but multiplying using a stator is redirection. I used a cannon ball on a chain. Swinging two feet of chain overhead, you may stop it with your hand! Multiply that by redirecting the force increases. So now a 6 foot chain at the same speed! Harder to stop? Damn straight! They got it. A longer chain, but longer path of fluid travel hits the impeller harder. Long path, more speed = torque multiplication.
Thanks kindly for sharing!