Brian, despite the lack of polish this is still an excellent video!....I believe most of us who tune in are not here for polish, we're here for the information and professionalism you exhibit. Thanks very much for a simple answer to a very common problem!!
Thanks for sharing, I am your target audience, starting to rebuild classic SBC for Asphalt Super Late Model oval track racing, My first car as a teen was a 1969 Z/28 Camaro , no lie was in an accident, cost $700 in 1977, needed driver door and 1/4 panel, learned to build the 302, from Bill Jenkins book ! I'm now 63 and disabled so have lots of time for R&D. All my efforts are funded by my SSI, what the house and wife don't get. I know I'm rambling but I know you can tell where I'm coming from. So your help is really appreciated and you are doing a GREAT job. Ignore haters 🙏
Whatever you do please don't get discouraged. I love all of your videos. I appreciate you putting out these nuggets of information that took you years to learn. I have been an automotive technician for almost 35 years and I know how it feels to think why give out my hard earned information to people for free that don't appreciate nothing. Mr Salter I promise that you will make a difference. Listen, from one ole school man to another I know where you are coming from sir. It's tough to put up with this new generation sometimes. Alot of the tricks we learned we got from someone and then there's the fact that we are smart and figured out alot on our own. Please don't change how you are doing things and keep the great content coming.
I agree with you 100%. I've worked on motorcycles since 1968 and had to figure out a lot of things that were never thought of by the original design engineers (or, if modifications were made in subsequent model years, no mention was made in service updates or manuals)
Thanks Brian!! Writing this down in the little black book of tricks! 👍 P.S. If it's one thing I can't stand, it's Hollywood crap!! Don't need no fancy intro or outros, no fancy camera work, just need solid, usable information, and it's golden!! If I want fancy, I'll go to a movie theater. Let the sheep go for all the fancy nonsensical crap, people who want to learn will always appreciate someone who gets to the point with no BS'ing around! You're doing amazing Brian, don't sweat it!
I have been vacuuming up engine tech from youtube for a decade, the things I have learned here I have never seen even mentioned. This is excellent, really appreciate your work Brian, thanks from Australia.
You just saved me some money,the number one issue I have with my airplane engines is thrust bearings,just imagine a propeller bolted to the crankshaft of a 550 cubic inch 6 cylinder pulling the plane skyward,thrust load is massive
@@muskyelondragon: and just think MOTOR cycle engines use large ball bearing s for the main bearings.. ( now they probably have the least amount of thrust end load Though )
@@jeffcreel5508timkin, nsk , skf all the major bearing companys probably have something that will work. I know most drag engines have the block(behind first main) and crank machined to accept it just in front of the first throw on the crank.
It seems to me that all the oil flowing into and thru the bearing must escape thru the thrust surfaces. Do we think scavenging oil from the journal surface increases flow?
With the information provided, nobody should ne complaining about any video quality what so ever. That’s a smart modification for sure. I’ve done this for years myself. The method and detail in the example are very much and improvement over the way I have been. I’ll be following suit. Thank you so much Mr.Salter!
Thank you. I always wondered about the way that Smoky Yunick done it champfering both halves all the way across. I will do it your way. You proved it these days!
Hey Brian, Tim here, so you DID watch my sub's vid on thrust bearing failure......I told him I always work for 5, instead of the min of 3.....he's a meticulous, OCD guy, rite up our alley.....SUPER BEST, COOL TRICK i ever seen.....makes PERFECT sense.......OH, THANK YOU Brother for a kick ASS vid!!......homie now has .006 to .007 thrust now.......but at .003, YOUR mod wudda worked!!!......just still tight in my book.....but WOW!!....ON POINT!!!....TY sir!!!......love it......just love it!!
The quality of the video was perfect, it contained great knowledge. Thank you. When you mentioned the trans putting a bind on it, it brought to mind of insuring that ones bellhousing is properly indexed to the crank to stop a possible bind point. Again, thanks for sharing.
Bill Jenkins first referenced this in his chevrolet racing engine book 40 plus years ago. It is common knowledge today among engine pro's. This is a good modification to make. But would add there are many other things to consider in preserving thrust life. Good reference. 👍
I’ve seen this trick done by turbo John on his sbc when he was rebuilding it one time. He did it a little different than you, but very similar. Great tip to do. I’d say stick cars would be very beneficial.
Thank you for your time to share your knowledge and experience with these simple tips that can make a big difference in our engine building. I'm glad you spoke about the thrust failure video .I could not figure how he was able to run the engine on a test stand with no problem and immediately have a issue on the dyno. Binding would make sense. Again thank for your time and experience.
Yes, I've been doing that exact thing on EVERY engine for over 40 years, even stock rebuilds, for exactly the same reasoning! Hopefully it's more "great minds think alike", rather than "fools seldom differ" 👍😎😄 It's not just clutches that load the thrust bearing, but torque converts do too! Don't know if you're aware of it, but in Aussie they're replacing the "plain" thrust bearings with Torrington taper roller bearings, to make sure the thrust lives. Forgot, some builders will drill through the side of the bearing and into the oil feed drilling for the mains', which works, too, but I've always thought to be a bit too much trouble.
That is brilliantly simple and much easier than drilling a 1/32" hole through bearing web in block into oil passage on the main thrust face. I guess you could relieve the edge the same amount as normal bearing clearance? I've worked on motorcycle for decades but never heard of this before (inline fours since the 1980's have been plain bearing)If I ever get around to doing pick up motor I'll be doing this.
nice looking crank on the MOPARS we lost thrusts mostly with the stick shift cars or a balloned converter We had a pipeline to engineering and regularly wrote to them IT took Chrysler years to increase the thrust size.\\ Oil want to go out the front of the bearing On my blocks I'd drill thru the thrust into the oil passages you have a neat trick no block machining luv it Did you ever notch the main saddles around to the parting line and feed the crank at the parting line.? works good I've chamfered the parting lines but both sides and nothing special on the ends toward the thrust great you can use a bearing scraper
Hey Brian, thank you so much for your information but I am concerned about the damage that was done to your shop and it’s content. I hope you are able to get through. This is so sad that this happens hopefully it’ll just make you stronger and hopefully more prepared my wife and I considered moving to Florida years ago, but after, watching all the news with the hurricane we will stay on the West Coast. The weather is milder without my home being blown away or shop. God bless. Better luck in the future Jack.
Thanks Brian. I clicked LIKE, like you said. Never realised the clutch throwout is pushing on the cranks thrust. Chevy did it right having the thrust at the back of the cranks. With a heavy pressure plate it could be hundreds of pounds pressure thru the cranks onto the thrust. Something I think would help engines a lot: some kind of electric preoiler. Hold it on for a while before cranking, and let it off once running. Makes sure all the rods have oil before turning. An idea for a video. Down under in Australia we all pretty worried about state of things with uncle Sam, hope it can be solved in the election. Good luck.
I saw the Golds Garage video. This makes perfect sense to me. Will be taking this extra step the next engine i put together. Do automatics suffer this problem? Thanks Mr Salter.
Dam Brian!! I wish I had known this years ago. Nice nice tip. Thank you. The thing I would love to know is oil pressure? Mine has 20-25 warm10- 40 Amsoil . I know the old saying about the crank and should be good. But is it? Yes it’s got a high volume pump and it is a mopar. But a pro like you should be able to tell me I am F ! Or I could go 100,000 like that. But what a cool trick you on this video. Thank you again.
That is a good little idea. But you talk about the oil getting trapped? Your beaveled edge actually opens up a passage to the oil groove in the bottom (?) bearing shell anyway.
Had to replace a little 80sToyota 4banger once with 300plus k's . Still ran fine but lost alot of oil past the front crank seal when the clutch was depressed . Theres yerproblem lady ! Took the pan off to see what could be done but the thrust had completely left the building and the crank was working its way smoothly into the main brg webs. Talk about end play...mustabeen atleast a quarter inch !Manual trans, sittin with the pedal down ! That loads gotta go sumwar !
Maybe something else to consider. Do we want scrape the oil before or after it lubricates the bottom half of the main and do we want to send more or all of the oil to the loaded side of the thrust? Great content!
Good mod I'll be doing that every time now , you're picking up the oil groove in the upper bearing so that one would be pressure feed ? New performance bearing should already come like that
interesting... I had always thought that oil squeezes out of the bearings all the way around them in the first place, as there's no lip seal on either side of the bearing. I thought that's why you need oil pressure to overcome the oil that squeezes out. But the chamfer actually turns the oils direction of travel, forcing it out of the bearing. Question: Do you think there is actually oil pressure on the thrust side of the bearing, actually holding the crank off the bearing? Or does lubrication just rely on the lubricity characteristics of the oil? I'm going to guess that if, during tear down, if there are no noticeable scuff marks on the bearing, it must be maintaining oil pressure, & holding off the crank from contact. If it's scuffed, then not so much. Am I thinking correctly? Second question: I remember back in the 80's, you could purchase 'full groove' bearings, but they've became increasingly more difficult to find, until eventually they just simply weren't available. I always gravitated more towards the full groove bearings, as it made more sense to me to have a large supply of oil filling the groove, all the way around the crank & rods, to have ample pressure to keep the hydraulic action of the oil, preventing metal to metal contact. Do you know why they've ceased making full groove bearings?
I've seen some guys do this just on one end of the upper bearing (block) to feed both sides from the same spot. What benefits does doing it like this have?
Brian, despite the lack of polish this is still an excellent video!....I believe most of us who tune in are not here for polish, we're here for the information and professionalism you exhibit. Thanks very much for a simple answer to a very common problem!!
Always have to be that 1 or in this case 26 guys 🤦🏼. Just watch the vid and listen To his tip /advice. 🤫
👍🏾
Totally agree. No need to watch twice. Picked up what you were laying down! 👏
Thanks for sharing, I am your target audience, starting to rebuild classic SBC for Asphalt Super Late Model oval track racing, My first car as a teen was a 1969 Z/28 Camaro , no lie was in an accident, cost $700 in 1977, needed driver door and 1/4 panel, learned to build the 302, from Bill Jenkins book ! I'm now 63 and disabled so have lots of time for R&D. All my efforts are funded by my SSI, what the house and wife don't get. I know I'm rambling but I know you can tell where I'm coming from. So your help is really appreciated and you are doing a GREAT job. Ignore haters 🙏
Super killer tip Brian! Sending this to my machinist. Hopefully he doesn't hate my guts after this build. 😂
Whatever you do please don't get discouraged. I love all of your videos. I appreciate you putting out these nuggets of information that took you years to learn. I have been an automotive technician for almost 35 years and I know how it feels to think why give out my hard earned information to people for free that don't appreciate nothing. Mr Salter I promise that you will make a difference. Listen, from one ole school man to another I know where you are coming from sir. It's tough to put up with this new generation sometimes. Alot of the tricks we learned we got from someone and then there's the fact that we are smart and figured out alot on our own. Please don't change how you are doing things and keep the great content coming.
I agree with you 100%.
I've worked on motorcycles since 1968 and had to figure out a lot of things that were never thought of by the original design engineers (or, if modifications were made in subsequent model years, no mention was made in service updates or manuals)
Thanks Brian!! Writing this down in the little black book of tricks! 👍
P.S. If it's one thing I can't stand, it's Hollywood crap!! Don't need no fancy intro or outros, no fancy camera work, just need solid, usable information, and it's golden!! If I want fancy, I'll go to a movie theater. Let the sheep go for all the fancy nonsensical crap, people who want to learn will always appreciate someone who gets to the point with no BS'ing around! You're doing amazing Brian, don't sweat it!
It’s not polished presentation that counts, it’s the message. Great tip! Thanks
I have been vacuuming up engine tech from youtube for a decade, the things I have learned here I have never seen even mentioned. This is excellent, really appreciate your work Brian, thanks from Australia.
Top Notch, No Extras, cutting to the chase 🏁🏁🏁 Just the way we like ya Brian. Never Change a thing.
Your videos are just fine, we're looking for a pro builder not a pro video guy
Quickly becoming my favourite TH-cam Channel. Glad you got it started.
You just saved me some money,the number one issue I have with my airplane engines is thrust bearings,just imagine a propeller bolted to the crankshaft of a 550 cubic inch 6 cylinder pulling the plane skyward,thrust load is massive
How about a roller thrust bearing? Big power drag race engines use them very successfully.
@@muskyelondragon: and just think MOTOR cycle engines use large ball bearing s for the main bearings.. ( now they probably have the least amount of thrust end load Though )
@@muskyelondragon great idea,who makes them.
@@jeffcreel5508timkin, nsk , skf all the major bearing companys probably have something that will work. I know most drag engines have the block(behind first main) and crank machined to accept it just in front of the first throw on the crank.
It seems to me that all the oil flowing into and thru the bearing must escape thru the thrust surfaces. Do we think scavenging oil from the journal surface increases flow?
Your golden nuggets of knowledge are very appreciated brother...
Thx again
Hi Brian. Thank you for the tip. Something so simple might help a lot."The difference is in the details" Andrew
With the information provided, nobody should ne complaining about any video quality what so ever.
That’s a smart modification for sure. I’ve done this for years myself. The method and detail in the example are very much and improvement over the way I have been.
I’ll be following suit. Thank you so much Mr.Salter!
Thank you. I always wondered about the way that Smoky Yunick done it champfering both halves all the way across. I will do it your way. You proved it these days!
Hey Brian,
Tim here, so you DID watch my sub's vid on thrust bearing failure......I told him I always work for 5, instead of the min of 3.....he's a meticulous, OCD guy, rite up our alley.....SUPER BEST, COOL TRICK i ever seen.....makes PERFECT sense.......OH, THANK YOU Brother for a kick ASS vid!!......homie now has .006 to .007 thrust now.......but at .003, YOUR mod wudda worked!!!......just still tight in my book.....but WOW!!....ON POINT!!!....TY sir!!!......love it......just love it!!
Thank you, Brian. That will help my street engine with a manual transmission live longer.
This is gold! I am definitely utilizing what you've taught here in my next build!
Hope you can do a video on wet simp oil pumps. When to use a high volume oil pump or not and oil pump mods. Thanks for the great videos!
Well done, Brian. Another outstanding hard core tech video explained in simple terms. Thanks for sharing your tips.
The quality of the video was perfect, it contained great knowledge. Thank you. When you mentioned the trans putting a bind on it, it brought to mind of insuring that ones bellhousing is properly indexed to the crank to stop a possible bind point. Again, thanks for sharing.
Chamfering the bearings is definitely not to be forgotten! Great video!
As always the information is priceless!! Thank you!!!
I saw it immediately in your illustration. Genius!!!!
I used to never like a video unless I thought I’d come back to it, lol. I said screw it’s now, I like all my peeps videos.
Gold’s Garage i agree with you I don’t think it’s anything he did wrong he’s pretty knowledgeable.
great info, thank you for sharing, side note, remember this, voting is consent to be governed.
Bill Jenkins first referenced this in his chevrolet racing engine book 40 plus years ago. It is common knowledge today among engine pro's. This is a good modification to make. But would add there are many other things to consider in preserving thrust life.
Good reference. 👍
I’ve seen this trick done by turbo John on his sbc when he was rebuilding it one time. He did it a little different than you, but very similar. Great tip to do. I’d say stick cars would be very beneficial.
brian thats great trick, ive been doin that since the 80s great video thank you
Based upon the comments from Al in his latest video, you were 100% right. The dyno wiped the thrust bearing.
yesterday I installed a thrust bearing in my cad 500 . I'm going to tear it down and follow your gold nugget.
Great information, thanks.
I think you're right about what happened to AG's engine on the dyno.
Smart video I used to modify both sides but this is excellent. And make sure the crank thrush side has been polished.
Not an engine builder, but I get what your doing 💯..
People tell me im stupid and that does no good. I keep doing it and wont stop.
Video is fine , makes perfect sense .
Thank you for your time to share your knowledge and experience with these simple tips that can make a big difference in our engine building. I'm glad you spoke about the thrust failure video .I could not figure how he was able to run the engine on a test stand with no problem and immediately have a issue on the dyno. Binding would make sense. Again thank for your time and experience.
Yes, I've been doing that exact thing on EVERY engine for over 40 years, even stock rebuilds, for exactly the same reasoning! Hopefully it's more "great minds think alike", rather than "fools seldom differ" 👍😎😄
It's not just clutches that load the thrust bearing, but torque converts do too!
Don't know if you're aware of it, but in Aussie they're replacing the "plain" thrust bearings with Torrington taper roller bearings, to make sure the thrust lives.
Forgot, some builders will drill through the side of the bearing and into the oil feed drilling for the mains', which works, too, but I've always thought to be a bit too much trouble.
Simple. Effective. Brilliant. 🎉THANKS🎉
I immediately subscribed. Great video and I'll be using this info. I use the trans break and 2 step regularly
Makes total sense. I love seeing little things like this that came from ideas of very smart men. Thanks for sharing Brian
That is brilliantly simple and much easier than drilling a 1/32" hole through bearing web in block into oil passage on the main thrust face.
I guess you could relieve the edge the same amount as normal bearing clearance?
I've worked on motorcycle for decades but never heard of this before (inline fours since the 1980's have been plain bearing)If I ever get around to doing pick up motor I'll be doing this.
more more more ,this stuff is gold!!
Excellent advice 👍
This is a big help. I have done this before and it works. I love your videos and try to watch all of them.
That was a great tip, thank you for sharing.
This is badass! Doing this to all my enigne builds from now on!
Love that message at the end! Be good folks!
Thanks for the tips brain cant wait to see what your next trick is
Give it a try .
Won’t hurt.
Like they say 25% of the time it works 100% of the time.
You always make sense!👍
nice looking crank on the MOPARS we lost thrusts mostly with the stick shift cars or a balloned converter We had a pipeline to engineering and regularly wrote to them IT took Chrysler years to increase the thrust size.\\
Oil want to go out the front of the bearing On my blocks I'd drill thru the thrust into the oil passages you have a neat trick no block machining luv it
Did you ever notch the main saddles around to the parting line and feed the crank at the parting line.? works good
I've chamfered the parting lines but both sides and nothing special on the ends toward the thrust great you can use a bearing scraper
Nice trick! This video is 1 month late as I already assembled the engine 😄
I actually had a 289 ford wear a groove in the thrust area on the crank, been doing this every since good info
Thanks for the insight!!!
Wow, that makes so much sense. You have so many great ideas.Thank you, Leo
Hey Brian, thank you so much for your information but I am concerned about the damage that was done to your shop and it’s content. I hope you are able to get through. This is so sad that this happens hopefully it’ll just make you stronger and hopefully more prepared my wife and I considered moving to Florida years ago, but after, watching all the news with the hurricane we will stay on the West Coast. The weather is milder without my home being blown away or shop. God bless. Better luck in the future Jack.
Thanks Brian. I clicked LIKE, like you said. Never realised the clutch throwout is pushing on the cranks thrust. Chevy did it right having the thrust at the back of the cranks. With a heavy pressure plate it could be hundreds of pounds pressure thru the cranks onto the thrust. Something I think would help engines a lot: some kind of electric preoiler. Hold it on for a while before cranking, and let it off once running. Makes sure all the rods have oil before turning. An idea for a video. Down under in Australia we all pretty worried about state of things with uncle Sam, hope it can be solved in the election. Good luck.
Quality is fine.
Another trick I’ll remember thank you.
Thrust is what I do with the old lady 😂
Interesting idea, never have considered (nor heard of) this.
I had new crank the trust was 4. Sanded on glass 2000. Finshed got to 5.2 stick shift car.😊
great vidoes and information✌️
I really enjoyed your video and thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience with us. Awesome!
I saw the Golds Garage video. This makes perfect sense to me. Will be taking this extra step the next engine i put together. Do automatics suffer this problem? Thanks Mr Salter.
Yes. Torque converter is pushing on crank under heavy loads.
Great content ! Thanks for sharing this information !
Best information on here
Thanks Brian, that was great info.
Very helpful!
Thank you sir! May I have another? 😊
Awesome information.
Thanks a million!
Dam Brian!! I wish I had known this years ago. Nice nice tip. Thank you. The thing I would love to know is oil pressure? Mine has 20-25 warm10- 40 Amsoil . I know the old saying about the crank and should be good. But is it? Yes it’s got a high volume pump and it is a mopar. But a pro like you should be able to tell me I am F ! Or I could go 100,000 like that. But what a cool trick you on this video. Thank you again.
Thank you, great information. I will do this mod to my next build
Thank you
SO TRUE ON THE VOTE!
Beveled edges allow easier flow of oil onto a shelf on other side.
Another great video good job bryan
Great video!!!
Wise closing words.😊
Brilliant brother 👍👍
EXCELLENT MOD however I'm surprised you didn't mention INDEXING the thrust bearing
good idea
Very good tip thanks
That is a good little idea. But you talk about the oil getting trapped? Your beaveled edge actually opens up a passage to the oil groove in the bottom (?) bearing shell anyway.
Dang Have to tear down my 355 for Blower but at least the pan is still off Thanks thats realy cool
Had to replace a little 80sToyota 4banger once with 300plus k's .
Still ran fine but lost alot of oil past the front crank seal when the clutch was depressed . Theres yerproblem lady ! Took the pan off to see what could be done but the thrust had completely left the building and the crank was working its way smoothly into the main brg webs. Talk about end play...mustabeen atleast a quarter inch !Manual trans, sittin with the pedal down ! That loads gotta go sumwar !
Maybe something else to consider. Do we want scrape the oil before or after it lubricates the bottom half of the main and do we want to send more or all of the oil to the loaded side of the thrust? Great content!
Good tip. Thank you!
Great info
So where the chamfer is cut wont starve that half of the bearing on the journal area?
@@richardnelson2519 not at All great question
I love it mate
great info,,you going to show how you chamfer and flair oil passages ??
Yes sir good info, thanks brother!
Thanks!
Thank you sir
So little for what you share. You deserve way more.
Good mod I'll be doing that every time now , you're picking up the oil groove in the upper bearing so that one would be pressure feed ?
New performance bearing should already come like that
interesting... I had always thought that oil squeezes out of the bearings all the way around them in the first place, as there's no lip seal on either side of the bearing. I thought that's why you need oil pressure to overcome the oil that squeezes out. But the chamfer actually turns the oils direction of travel, forcing it out of the bearing.
Question: Do you think there is actually oil pressure on the thrust side of the bearing, actually holding the crank off the bearing? Or does lubrication just rely on the lubricity characteristics of the oil?
I'm going to guess that if, during tear down, if there are no noticeable scuff marks on the bearing, it must be maintaining oil pressure, & holding off the crank from contact. If it's scuffed, then not so much.
Am I thinking correctly?
Second question: I remember back in the 80's, you could purchase 'full groove' bearings, but they've became increasingly more difficult to find, until eventually they just simply weren't available. I always gravitated more towards the full groove bearings, as it made more sense to me to have a large supply of oil filling the groove, all the way around the crank & rods, to have ample pressure to keep the hydraulic action of the oil, preventing metal to metal contact.
Do you know why they've ceased making full groove bearings?
thanks I'm going to add that to my bag of tricks
I've seen some guys do this just on one end of the upper bearing (block) to feed both sides from the same spot. What benefits does doing it like this have?
I feel like it guarantees me that I'm going to get oil to both front and back and not have it go to one side doing it the way I showed you
@@SalterRacingEngines you got a good point there. Thanks
I hope one day I can afford to get you to build me an engine. 😊👍
At what angle should it be or does it matter.
Min. 45 degrees or so
Cool!!