I just bought a 94' Nissan pickup with about 10 years and 100 thousand miles worth of Ohio salt and rust. I keep watching videos of Californians/Southwesterners working on their 30 year old trucks with only the slightest surface rust. Then I look at my rust bucket and get discouraged when every bolt I try to remove is seized. Glad I found your channel!! Good to see someone with the same issues that has to use the same work arounds to even do the slightest repairs and maintenance! Thanks for these videos. Ive learned a lot
I've parted out a lot of trucks due to rust.y bodies & frames. Then one day I decided to see if I could save one. So I've been rebuilding a 1980 toyota that I got for $600 because it was a rust bucket. It's a long process, but I'm learning that it IS possible. But seriously, I'm buying my next Toyota from down south!
Glad to see you take your safety seriously. Very nice job on removing everything, and cleaning it out, and then oiling it down after you made your MIG welds. I've always believed in oiling up your iron afterward, It's got a great history of fighting the rust off.
Only because you asked here is some constructive criticism: When using a smaller welder, you should grind angles into your plate to get more penetration. Flux core wire will weld thicker metal than gas shielded. At least according to the chart on my 2 welders. When you make a repair like that it is better to build a box from 2 pieces of angle and then place splicing plates on top of the repair. Those splicing plates should have plug welds at points along the plate. The reason for this method it that your frame could suddenly split in half along the welds because of cracking caused by road vibrations. The best example of how to do this was on 4wd 24/7’s channel when they modified the 80 series to extend the frame.
@@lawnstar1441 This video has all the basic concepts. When you cut out a piece you should place a welded plate on top that extends beyond the cuts to strengthen it. That cover plate should also be plug welded to your filler plate. For this you drill holes in the cover plate and weld them to the filler plate. th-cam.com/video/YBdNtnASWis/w-d-xo.html
@@jflabeets1 yes when me and dad fixed my 80 chevy frame broken between cab and bed, we got new frame, beveled all, then welded it together like tongue n groove, not just butt weld 2 pieces of frame. Then used a diamond shaped piece over the weld, and plug welded. This was in 2003. Trucks still going. But I had to take off bed, etc. Alot of work but I feel it's a way better, long lasting repair than doing it with bed, suspension etc on frame. All kinds of room to work, etc. Easier u can work on your job, the better it'll be.
It was entertaining to watch and since you asked here is some food for thought on welding Setting up the machine is probably easiest by the sound of how its welding it should be a very consistent fast paced buzz Welding is the art of heat control, too much heat and the whole part becomes soft and on some metals like stainless it destroys its rust properties and makes it brittle too little heat - thick base metal being cold and the weld being hot, rapidly cooling down induces massive stress in the molecules cristalizing which result in cracks Cracks are the worst outcome of a weld because they will propagate into the base metal and split it apart dealing with cracks - you never want to weld on top of a crack instead you want to cut into the crack with your grinder so you take the metal out and eliminate the possibility of crack spreading if the part is of high importance or is under a load then you have to drill small holes at the ends of the crack on top of grinding it out Use a mindset of Heat = Time the more time your welding the more heat you input into the part therefore you can crank the wire speed up and weld on thin metal by moving fast and the base metal stays solid same with thick metal, you may need to preheat it before welding Welding Positions - you would weld differently looking from above than if you were to weld from below looking up as you did in this project laws of gravity are at play and with heat the metal gains viscosity opposite happens as it gets colder it becomes hard and brittle to do it properly you must take into account your angle of torch relative to the weld going 90* is gonna result the most penetration and most likely will burn quickly through your base metal the optimal is 30* in either the way your welding (push/pull) to ensure the most control over your input of heat and metal with horizontal welds angle your torch 30* to the direction your going and 30* aiming up since the metal is gonna drip downwards from gravity and you keep pushing it up for now i suggest you to work on your consistency and straightness of your welds and ignore the weaving patterns get those lines straight and consistent for best penetration, adhesion and formation on the other side of your piece you have to bevel your edges easiest way to do it is run your grinder between the two pieces so it cuts a line between them halfway into the metal thickness Tacking the pieces together is important i saw that you held the bottom with a clamp as you fully welded the top heat warps metal and bends the whole piece upwards raising the gap between your plates making it stick at an angle having a clamp hold it does the job but i would still tack it on the bottom to ensure it cant bend out of position tack diagonally from tack to tack going fully around it to ensure it cannot change the shape and create gaps welding builds tension and stress in the metal due to change of heat and cristalization speed of metal which in turn increases the risks of cracks Therefore you have to weld at a 1 3 2 4 pattern with your welds ending into your previous starting points to spread the heat and stress evenly across the whole piece Going vertically from top to bottom is unacceptable in load bearing structures because of insufficient metal volume and penetration, so do it only on pieces that dont hold more than your own body weight at most going from bottom to top vertically is a hard achievement to learn for people learning the skill but thats the only way you will have the piece not fail on you if there was no side rail adding strength and rigidity to your frame i would encourage you to redo the welds a tip you can use is weld the thing in tacks. start welding each new tack on top of the previous one before the metal stops glowing from heat to ensure that no cracks form and it fuses properly, for this you may have to hold it for a while depending on the thickness of the metal, otherwise welding vertical the proper way needs you to do a weaving patter going form side to side and pausing for a while to add volume. i saw you had problems with welding accuracy by having welds not getting between the plates and just welding on top of the plates not even connecting the pieces together due to having problems seeing. Yeah it sucks and its understandable, but remember there are people who get to weld hanging upside down in very high heat claustrophobic places with their arms extended sweat pouring down their mask with a MMA electrode in one hand bent more than 90* while holding a mirror in the other hand with nearly no room for error with pressure to complete the job. i can tell you it sucks real hard but you get to look back on it with a sense of pride because not everyone can do that irrelevant how much they get paid. So ABOVE anything else the 1st thing that separates a professional welder from amateur hobbyist is the prep work and planning before each and every weld they do it is literary 80% of welding, making sure that when you pull the gun, nothing can go wrong. Get as comfortable as you can, from a side it might look lazy when the welder is lying down on the ground as if they have no care in the world but they are actually making sure that their hand doesnt get tired while doing the weld, it doesnt ever snag on anything, nothing is obstructing their process from start to finish. before each weld glide your hand over as if you were welding to test if it is perfect, worst thing that can happen to you is you hit your gun against something and it ruins the whole thing. in a professional environment you will be expected to grind the whole thing out and do it from start, certain types of metal cannot be stress heated multiple times and may result in cutting the whole thing out and doing it from the start. often these specialized metals with certain properties cost thousands of $ per sq ft area so as you might imagine, do the mistake twice and your fired. basically comfort is your #1 priority for fancy welds, there is no correct way to hold the torch, if its more comfortable for you wrap it around your neck, hold it upside down, whatever. after you got comfortable the next priority is sight, you cannot weld what you cannot see. i personally dislike the fixed shade lenses but they provide the most safety for your eyes, some old timers just got used to them before the auto dark existed and just stayed that way, some cant afford them. remember that the more light you let them pass through the more you will see what your doing and whats around you and the more UV will get into your eyes and damage your eyesight. all you need to see is the puddle of your weld and and right around it to see if your still moving correctly. generally your movements should not exceed the width 2x of your wire, so it is a very small surgical precision. I think consistency is only achieved through reacting to what you observe, dont look what goes next, keep it in your peripheral vision. dont stare into the brightest spot of weld, instead look at your puddle as it is cooling down and forming the shape. react if you need to move slightly faster as its getting too liquid or you need to slow down to add volume and prevent welding defects like undercut. to be a good welder follow these 3 golden rules: 1. prep work, make sure nothing can go wrong, your fit up is spot on, the bevels are even across the whole length, there will be no surprises. 2. comfort. Your hand is so tired its killing you, you find yourself to finish the last inch you have to extend your arms in a unnatural way, it will directly reflect on the quality of your work. 3. consistency, your line looks as if its one single continuous flow with no thin or fat sections and no deviation to the sides, robotic movement. it all comes naturally by experience just laying down welds with the intention of the next one being better than the previous one, there was a time i couldnt do something no matter how i tried and how angry i was and now what i can do with nearly my eyes closed thinking about something completely unrelated. Another thing i would like to point out is that you grinded down your welds to go over the parts with no visible fusion, remember that the shape of the weld matters in how stress travels across the metal. since you didnt have full penetration at certain points and you grinded it down, a lot of the metal didnt get inbetween the plates to fuse them together so in reality while you cant see it, there may be barely anything holding it together making it the absolute weakest point in the structure, arguably even worse than when it was held together by rusted metal as it may be thinner. Welder and paint may make you the welder you aint, but in the end of the day its your health your risking if the structure fails on you at the point of highest stress when you dont want it to happen the least, in this context imagine you drive over a bigger pothole while going full speed down the highway, your frame splits, the car leans to a side and you get thrown into the opposite lane traffic. Bad welders cost lives. So to finish this long rant i want to remind people that this is only the tip of the iceberg not even touching the water, you start in welding, dive into metallurgy, find yourself in chemistry and get lost in physics. i hope people who make it through this wall of text gain more knowledge and respect on the subject. nobody knows everything and nobody is too good to learn. having the skillset of gluing two pieces of metal together and have them stick is gonna give you the possibility to create anything that your imagination is capable of projecting and is gonna be valuable till the very last day you spend on this earth. If anyone has anything to add, feel free. To 6th Gear Garage, if you have any questions feel free to reach out, i feel like this channel is on a path to become big, good to observe it in this stage
@@6thGearGarage I personally appreciate trying to keep the old frame alive, since for me it's just not an option to go find a frame from some southern state.
This is great! I had a 1989 Toyota 4WD pickup that I bought new in May of 1989 for 12K. One of the first things that I did to the frame was to coat it with Karnak roofing tar. I've read stories on how you should never coat frames with Karnak, but that was years after I had already coated it. If it's good for a roof being exposed to 4 seasons of punishment, it must be good for the truck frame. I must say that when I sold the truck in 2016, there was not a bit of rust or corrosion on the frame, and I lived in the New York Tri-State area where they apply salt to the roads just for kicks. Body panels and doors were all loaded with rust, but the frame was the least rusted part of the truck. The center cross piece that held the spare tire carrier was rusted beyond recognition and that was because I never coated that. I now own two Tacomas. My older Tacoma that I bought used is showing signs of corrosion and I'm going to fix her up because that was the last good Tacoma engine and transmission wise. My other Tacoma is a 2021 which I'm not too crazy about, but I intend on keeping it for a long time. So, I plan to coat the frame with Karnak. Hey, if it worked the first time, it should do OK for my newer Tacoma.
Isn't it funny how much they use to cost?? I got a new 88 4X4 for 9600$ off the lot in December of 1988, that truck owed me nothing!! Now these things are nearly 50K, and the frames last 8 years, it's insane!!
Great video...Just so you know...When I done the rusted parts of the frame on my 95 Tacoma I used a big extendable magnet tool to get the big chunks of rust out of the frame. It was pretty easy that way. Then I put the shop vac on one end of the frame as I used compressed air on the other end to blow the smaller rust particles into the shop vac. It worked pretty well for me. Its just the way I done it... and another option. But good job bro!
One tip for you mate , You used hot rolled steel No probs Best though to grind of all the blue mill scale or usr cold rolled, then prime both sides with red oxide primer buff the edges before welding After welding dress welds and prime up you then have along lasting surface ready for final coating Internally you can, for existing metal use a phosphoric type oxidation arrester which goes black and chemically seals the surface and also can hold a primer for extra protection I am a retired Fitter welder and have done plenty of this work Your Video was well presented for an amateur ,well done
That's the enormous advantage of the old style frame compared to modern car chassis. It's an immense advantage when you need to work on it. Not a perfect looking weld but as far as it contact the two pieces fully and as deep as possible, it's a good one.
Very comprehensive video sir. I commend anyone who's actually doing this kind of work on their older vehicles. Being an owner of a 97 GMC Yukon, I was fortunate enough to still have a solid frame that didn't require welding repair. However the surface rust along the frame as well as towards the back of the vehicle (where the spare tire sits) was absolutely horrendous. I ended up using a needle scaler to get the majority of the rust off, cleaned the frame with POR15 rust remover and a pressure washer, then proceeded to spray it with fluid film oil spray. Unfortunately the fluid film didn't last very long and dried off within 3 months of application. It's a real shame that North American weather and road brine don't play nice with our relics. Keep that truck beautiful bud ✌🤟
That was a great job. Looks like the previous guy who welded the rusty spots on my frame just patched over the rust like you said. Oh well. .. I'll try to make my repairs more like yours. Thanks for all the great advice. Excellent video. Subscribed!
I rebuilt the frame on my F350 and used a product called Steel It. It's a spray on, looks like galvanized when dry. Been 8 yrs in upstate NY and no rust. It is pricey though but after spending 15k on a rebuild of the truck and the time invested, it was the best option.
For future reference you should use a 220 setup to weld stuff that thick if you want good penetration. Also remember higher amps isnt always more heat, more heat can be added by moving slower. Beveling your plates will help as well. Also flux core welds pretty good as long as you switch your polarity, most of the time they come out pretty decent with only a little spatter.
I sometimes run a 110v flux core welder off my miller trailblazer in my service truck. It welds heavy ass hooks onto 1” plate loader buckets pretty well. Just hard on the lil sucker for sure.
Great video. Having dealt with Toyota frame rust for years, I recommend taking the entire body off the frame. It's easier to cut out and grind all the rusted areas inside and out. Prime and paint the inside and outside of the frame after removing all of the rust. Yes, rust can grow under the paint, but it's not as bad as people say, and there will be little to none if you oil the frame after the paint has cured for a while. You don't need a lift to take the body off. There are some good YT videos that can help.
The job would be so much easier with the cab removed. I removed the bed & gas tank when I repaired the rear section of the frame and it was a breeze. Dirt Garage had a good episode on removing a 4runner body using four 55 gallon steel drums and then he just rolled the frame out from under it.
@@6thGearGarage we need more detailed body/cab removal videos. I saw an old one a while back, but the rest really don't get into the fine details and lessons learned.
Hey man great video just a bit of advice unhook your battery terminals before welding or grounding the vehicle! This trucks older so not to many sensitive electronics! But good practice is to unhook the battery!
I weld a lot , I'm not an but know what I'm doing. First off a Lincoln 240v welder is much better. Also from lots of experience and testing, you don't need a visually perfect looking weld to be strong. I weld aluminium as well, more tricky than mild steel but rewarding . Alun is 1\3rd lighter and 2\3 less strong as well compared to steel. Enjoyed watching this video.
I did the same job on my Pajero/montero gen/mk 1 . I also used a naillscaler and air hammer outside of the frame. It really helped to losen and brake of the rust scaling on the inside and even pulverize it in smaller chunks for easyer vacuuming. I also blassed it with air/chock tank on the opposite ends. Its also really important to jack up the frame and even brase it so it wont bend, twist or sagg were you have to cut big holes or litle left on the frame. I filled it with fluid film and a diy redneck mix of geease, wax and oil inside after 2 weeks after the fluid film... Just for sh*ts and Giggles
Thank you for that video. I noticed when you were welding horizontal and overhead. It may be easier to spot the weld in as you go. Hold your trigger a couple seconds each time to achieve max penetration. You wont have to go back over your weld and it will give a great ripple effect like a aluminum weld Keep up the great work 👍.
I think your proposed primer/epoxy is as good as you will get. A zinc rich paint on the inside is what I would do. Great job btw. It does take a lot of time to get it right. Thanks for the video - enjoyed it thoroughly.
Sweet Truck. I used to own a 1980 and my brother had an '86 Toyota. Now I have a fully restored 1976 K20 Chevy. Shout out to Road Salt! Ha ha. Nice work bro! I have a few pro tips for you. BTW 15 liters/min is about 30 CFH. I typically weld at 15 CFH...so you might want to try using half as much flow to save gas. Second, you could also squirt motor oil into the frame. That works as well.
Thanks, I'll turn it down a bit! I did use Fluid Film on the frame later in the video because it atomizes well with the spray gun and covers the inside.
I have drilled a frame for better drainage. I drilled the ends as well to power wash directionally. Then I drilled some flat metal with a larger hole. Then welded those over the hole to increase strength with out restricting the drain. After painting the complete frame. I use a hand pump (2gal) to spray a mix inside each hole from as many directions and as solid as possible. My favorite mix is WD40/Marvel Mystery Oil. Buy both by the gal 🤦🏻♀️ I like the smell of both Btw it destroys the sprayer. You will have to buy a new one yearly Keep them clean and lubricated help to prevent future problems 😮 Enjoyed your video
I do something similar but using waxoyl. I drill out holes along the chassis / body ares... add waxoyl and then fit plugs. I generally plop some sealant over the plugs. Every year I pull the plugs and rewaxoyl the chassis. So far so good.
Did you consider descaler for the inside? On areas that you can reach with it anyway.. also, Eastwood has a great internal frame coating that reviews well.
I've never tried the descaler, I'll look into that. I saw Eastwood had a frame coating, but I was nervous about that flaking off after a while and sitting in the bottom of the frame.
Thanks for the helpful video. Helped inspire me to patch the rust on my GMC’s frame. To clean the inside, I found the best tool is a rotating chimney sweep brush and garden hose to wash the dust out.
The next coating: If You ar e willing to clean the whole frame very well, then clean it and brush a coat of zink in it first, attach some boating anodes and then coat it with any soft rock guard. After the zink and soft guard on top, it'll last a thousand years.
Hey I just wanna say good on you for going ahead and doing this. After reading forums and Reddit some of those guys would’ve said scrap it, when probably 90% of them have never even tried, and are just going off what others have said. 👍
I used to use POR15 as well but have recently switched to Rust Seal. I watched some comparison videos and it turns out with better results and has a slight flexibility as well. But I always use a rust converter first.
@@6thGearGarage I find POR15 works well on surface rusted metal. You have to chip off all the thick scale, then power wash it and wipe down with acetone or brake cleaner. BUT, you cannot use POR15 on ether clean metal or painted metal, it will peel. It's designed to stick to light surface rust as it chemically bonds to it, and it does very well if stuck to that application only...
@@dc6233 I just tried a POR15 alternative called Rustproof MD in my latest video of the rusty 1980 frame and I'm happy with the results so far. I decided to try it because it is UV resistant.
I was thinking that watching this video. His repair was a great structural repair but if you wanted to do full on restoration, you’d be better off doing a frame swap and powder coating it. Absolutely major job and incredibly expensive.
Something to consider applying to inside the frame when its open and cleanish is rust converter (tannic acid) which stabilises the rust somewhat, its very thin and wont fall off and into the bottom of the rail. then put your spray liquid stuff over that.
Watching your video again, I have used self etching primer on bare metal. Then i used PB Baster Surface Shield. The frame looks black because dirty clings to it making it look black. Helps identify area's with high wash off that need to be recoated. I've done it a few times and its holding up nice and strong at my repair areas. There are some area's of the frame that need repair that i will be doing this year to hopefully end all ROT that was on it.
Good video, if you want to make it easier to get the cuts perfect, just take your new plate, put it on top the old one and cut the two plates at the same time. The cut on the new plate will match exactly the one your cutting out. If you cut it on a 45 degree angle, the new plate won't have any gap from the thickness of the cutting wheel. See Fitzee's Fabrications for that one! He is the master of the cut n butt! Take care!
I loved this video, watched it to the bitter end. Funny thing is I bought a 93 Toyota truck with the R22. I had to do the exact same thing to mine. All the rear end needed welded and some up front. Tossed the box it was so bad. Fun to see someone els going thru this hell.
Bevel both edges of the material being welded to about 1/16” it will/should give you the penetration needed with such a large heat sink(long plate and truck frame with thickness at/just beyond upper limit of welder). Flux core may penetrate better. And, if you had a gas mixer set up and separate cylinders if Argon and CO2 you might could ratio argon and CO2 differently from pure Argon or a 75/25% mix for a bit better penetration but a higher amp Mig/mag machine might be a better investment for you than that money spent on a gas mixer set up.
You might want to check out PB Blaster Surface Shield... It's been tested against all other lanolin products and won over the competition ( also made in Ohio)... It stays where you put it... Dave (Massillon, Ohio)
Hello. In Russia, , pushsalo" ( Пушечное сало -Cannon fat) is often used for frame processing. I don't know how it is properly called in English. Initially, this composition was used for the preservation of weapons.
Enjoyed your video and thoughts. Dude , people don't realize that it is so hard to see WTF you are doing when laying on the floor, having stuff up on a lift is a game changer. Even with a decent helmet, and good lights, it's hard to see your welds and not get grinding debris in your eyeballs. New clear plastic for the helmets shade shield is a must, and moving lights exactly where you want them matters too. I have the Lincoln SP180 plus, and it does a bit thicker than 3/16th or .1875 very well, I do highly recommend wiring either with 230V. You are probably in a similar position to most of us, where we run a direct burial 12 gauge wire and get 20 amps to our shop with a black, white and neutral, but no L2 for 230V, but often it's all we can afford. If you can, search around for some #6 stranded wire, run it in plastic conduit and you'll have 50/60 amps (the ground can be #12). I can run an entire good sized shop off of 60 amps, because I'm not welding while running a mill or a lathe or a grinder at the same time, never pulling too many amps even with a heater running in the winter. Running a 1/0 wire to my shop for a 100 amp panel would have cost me 7K$. Toyota seems to use 3mm steel or .118" and they fold or put 90's on the top and bottom for an "L" shape. I bought .125 - 2 x 2 angle iron, some .125 plate X 6/5/3/1.5" wide steel and have lots of it left over; the 90's are what makes it strong. To keep it from rusting I am looking into the lanolin products because paint, POR15, powder coating etc just seems to lift over time because moisture gets under it, and oil makes a mess everywhere you park; There has to be a barrier from the steel to the oxygen elements or it rusts again... My 03 frame got swapped in 2008, it was garbage again by 2018 or 10 years later, the steel they use must be recycled garbage steel...
I'm getting a 220v welder before I weld the frame on my current project, a 1980 Toyota pickup. I should have bought one a long time ago. Hard to believe that frame only lasted 10 years!! Thats a bummer
I’m no pro, but I heard that to avoid the vapour the gas tank needs to be either emptied washed out and completely dried or actually filled right up before it is welded - Ive used the wash and dry method but don’t think I’ll try the fill method myself 😅
Definitely one of the better repairs I've seen. Great if you are looking for a few more years out of it, but for my money and time a trip south for a rust free frame. Can have frames galvanized or powdercoated for not alot of money.
Honestly you really shouldn’t be repairing sections of the frame that way. No reputable shop would do that. I know you don’t want to hear it but the only way that truck should be used is off road only. It’s time for farm use parts or the crusher .God forbid you get 8n an accident and get hit hard your dead , that frame is going to fold like nothing. That’s not even mentioning the fact that you run the risk of it breaking especially if you load it with a good sized payload.
When you patch a frame you should never do straight up and down welds that makes a very weak point. Any frame built from the 80s up until current they put giant fish mouths and overlap the steel they do not but it up against each other.
I've heard that. And the plate on the frame for the IFS steering box, when I installed Hi-steer, was fish plated. But I've always done straight welds on the frame repairs for this truck because they were just one wall at a time and not a high stress area, unlike the steering box. But maybe I've just been lucky so far with them holding up. I'll give the fish plate a try on the next one... thanks for the heads up! (If I don't find a nice frame and do a frame swap!)
Por-15 is excellent as an encapsulator. It needs to cover every bit of rust. But with painting an entire frame like your first attempt - it’s almost impossible to encapsulate because you’ll have to cover the inside also otherwise the moisture will creep behind the por-15. Also it’s tricky stuff in terms of prep and getting all contaminants off a rusty frame is…. A challenge to say the least. Just paint the outer with epoxy primer & inner with something like Dynax S-50 and it’ll outlive the truck. Good job with the repair though bro.
@@4WheelKid nah por-15 is best used when rust has already set in. Clue is in the name. If some metal has got to the point that it’s a bit sketchy, por is usually enough to save it in my experience but I wouldn’t use it as a preventative measure by any means.
Watch Mustie 1... I own a 2003 Tacoma and read a TON of things on frame protection since I live in Wisconsin. I used his method after priming everything and letting it cure. Bar and chain oil is better than fluid film and WAAAAY more affordable. I've had no problems since my repairs 5 years ago.
@@6thGearGarageI followed what he did, first warmed it. There was a ratio.(15% ish) but cut it with some type of thinning agent to spray. Same equipment/ principle as Fluid film application, purchased the sprayer, wand and approx 4' hose at Harbor or a Farm supply. I liked it, it has the creeping quality to soak into the crevices. Even works well after dust sucks to it
Should have applied a Weld Thru Primer (misnomer it's zinc/copper coating) on the inside of your patch piece to protect the inside from rust before welding. Both SEM/Upol offer. This is oem standard body shop repair procedure for inaccessible seams after welding since mig weld will destroy e-coat/paint and you can't paint it after. Also I would have hit the inside of the old good part of the frame with rust converter paint before fluid film. Your welds are bad tbh - poor penetration - i wouldn't call those structural. Inspect from rear side . I bet they're vry bad. Should practice more on same thickness scrap and dial in your welds beforehand and do destructive test of them to make sure your welds are solid. I will not be hitting you up to do any suspension parts welding for me, no offense.
Yeah, I really wish I had a 220v welder. I used one before and it was effortless compared to trying to weld thick steel with this 110v. I really hope I can buy a rust free frame from down south, as this one has seen better days. No offense taken... I always appreciate advice from professionals/people who know more than I do.
It's easy to sit at home and write trolling remarks....the lad at least had the gumption to crawl under that rusty old truck and work on it, kudos to him, it's his truck, leave him alone, he's doing and learning like everyone else does. Signed A 66 year old pipe fitters & fabricator
@@6thGearGarage Flux core runs hotter and can do thicker work on same voltage. For frame work its perfectly ok if its a bit messier and you can always use some antispatter around the work area if it bothers you. Stick welding is also cheap and very good for frame work. For thin sheet metal/cosmetic work obvi wire mig is preferable as you probably knew already from your other work.
@@robertward8037 Thanks, I always get some flack on videos. I did it this way because it repaired the back half of the frame the exact same way 10 years ago and it's still great. Everyone has their own ways and I'm always up for trying a new method, as well as sharing one that worked for me.
I bet sunny California that's we're I'm from San Jose CA now I'm in West Virginia and bought a Toyota Tacoma 2004 and dealing with rust bought it in wellstone Ohio a few months and spraying rust remover products any opinions will be very helpful thanks love you're video you are one BADASS TO THE BONE! KEEP ON TRUCKING VATO!
I'd suggest just using your natural, conversational voice when you talk to us. The Mr. Announcer voice gets annoying after a while. Just be real. Like you're talking to a group of friends.
When I do bare metal I preheat it with a hand torch to evaporate the surface moisture then use the self etching primer and I like top coating with implement paint from tractor supply. Spraying the inner frame with a zinc coating or weld thru primer would be a great addition too.
In England we have a product called Waxoil Rust Protection. This can be sprayed into enclosed areas like sills (think you call them rockers in the USA) or frames. Would have been good to do this before welding although you could still spray it through the holes you showed us. Very good. Be good if all car manufacturers use it in high rusting parts of the country.
Yeah, the other issue is that they didnt put alot of effort into designing things not to hold mositure, if they would have done that combined with actually coating the frame inside and out with a substance like por 15 we wouldnt be having these rust issues.
Aluminum will suffer the same fate. For example, all liftgates on Ford Explorer & Expedition corrode. Aluminum wheels dissolve. If you're not from the midwest/NE, salt kills every thing.
Thank you for a great video on the repair of the frame of your Toyota truck. Your monologue during your work enhanced the content by explaining exactly why you were doing what you were doing. Your emphasis on the importance of thoroughly cleaning debris from inside boxed frames is one thing ignored in many online videos about the repair of truck frames. Often, videos show the installation of frame repair caps with no mention nor evidence that any effort was made to clear debris from inside the frame first. Without such cleaning it seems obvious that any attempt to effectively apply anti-rust chemicals after repairs would be impossible. One can imagine your frame boxed-in with its debris pile still in place. How could any anti-rust material be expected to adequately coat the frame interior? Instead, the debris can trap salt and water from winter highways and block anti-rust materials from reaching many of the areas where they are critically needed. Additionally, the debris can eventually block frame drain holes which might have allowed water intrusion to escape. I realize that in some frame repair situations it may be required to cut a hole or enlarge an existing one through which to gain access for effective debris removal. However, how can such important, safety related repairs be considered complete without an comprehensive plan to prevent a repeat failure?
We had one like that years ago. Cut the frame off and slipped a s10 frame on it from the cab back. Worked great bed even mounted looking right. Spring width was within a half inch or so.
A cheap sand blaster and needle scaler are your best friend for this stuff, I got a sand blaster off Amazon for $25 CAD and a needle scaler at Princess Auto for $40 on sale, did my whole F350 frame, then did 2 coats of oil based rust paint (I've used epoxy's and POR they chip too easy and under perform for the price point), In the frame I would recommend Ziebart it's reaaaaaly good stuff, seen it in car's from the 80's and it holds up very well, if your on a tight budget diesel with used oil will work just need to do it more often. Also when you have the opportunity to weld both sides of your patch it can't hurt if your worried about penetration. I think your welds are fine for what it is good work, Going to be doing my 83 in a bit here, never though I'd see the day, just can escape it with these trucks.
A tip for anyone, doesn't really need to be empty and long as you're away from the tank itself. Clear the lines by unplugging the fuel pump relay/fuse while the truck is on. And let it die out.
If I went that far with a frame repair, I would've tried to blow out as much from inside the frame as possible, maybe even do a power wash inside, but after letting it all dry, spray some form of anti-rust / rust converter inside, too. I've used "Coroseal" on my 2006 Colorado's underside. It's not perfect, but does pretty good. This winter (before winter) I'm going to go underneath and reapply another lay of Coroseal and once it cures, apply Woolwax to everything. Coroseal is non-flammable, so applying it to any bare metal you can access before welding is a must. You could still do that with a 360 rattle can hose-nozzle + air compressor + spray gun, if you're up for the task...
I did later in the video ;) I haven;t tried Woolwax, but I've become a fan of Fluid Film. I didn't use a converter on the inside of the frame because when it peels and flakes off, that will be more debris inside of the frame.
At some point I'd like to do my T-100 and I'm looking at Woolwax which seems interesting.. I have a patch on my frame in the exact same spot..lol😆 Great vid..👍
Seeing all these rust fighting videos makes me adore southwest Texas even more. Couldn't be luckier as a car guy to be born here. Props and prayers to rust belt mechanics
Drill access holes in the frame that are spaced out a little shorter than the length of your Fluid Film extension hose. That way you can hit all parts of the frame inside, with no gaps in coverage.
I recommend Fluid Film or Rust Check. I coated the entire undercarriage of my brand new Tundra back in 2019, frame still looks perfect today. The tar or rubberized products will only trap moistures and accelerate the rust. I would never use them.
Glad TH-cam recommended this video to me. Luv the video. I have a b15 Sentra that’s sat for 8-9 months who’s undercarriage is rusting away. I put Eastwood rust encapsulation on it last year, but it only lasted a year. I want to preserve it. Never welded in my life or have a compressor, but when the spring comes I want to tackle this in my driveway.
If you're welding anything 1/8" or thicker, I'd use a more powerful welder than the one I used in this video. I recently got a 220v Mig by Arc Captain (was actually cheaper than my 110v Lincoln) for some frame welding and it was so much better. th-cam.com/video/CRIvLpJfvgg/w-d-xo.html
Great job! Maybe you could have sprayed the metal frame patches with weld-through primer on the inside before welding in place. Would first using the wand to spray a coat of rust converter inside the frame before applying fluid film be good?
As scaled as the inside was, I'm nut sure if a rust converter would have made much of a difference. I make it a habit to keep the inside coated in fluid film. So if I go through deep water, or mud gets in the frame and I have to wash it out, then I will apply more fluid film to the inside. In the long run, this frame will need to be replaced, but I'm extending its life in the meantime.
Ive used this "FDC Rust Converter Ultra, Highly Effective Professional Grade Rust Repair" bought 1 gallon on Amazon. I just painted it on and it converts the rust to a purple color.
back when these frames were new and rust free they were pretty strong as Toyota basically has 2 pieces of c channel that shove into each other that were welded at the top and bottom, however as you have shown that design is prone to rust jacking and rusting from the inside out. I hit the frame jackpot for my truck as I still have factory paint on the inside of my frame. If I were you I would keep your eyes open for a good frame from a southern truck as it looks like your frame is starting to near the end of its life. one thing to note is a 2wd frame has the same arch as a solid axle 4wd frame and they are typically cheaper and easier to find.
Excellent video very informative thank you. I wonder why no welder ever use rust converters, I am not a welder but I would have thought it’d be a good idea to get a few coats of rust converter inside the frame and outside where there are surface rusts? Are they a bad product to use from you welders prospective ?
I'm not a professional welder, but I've had mixed results with rust converters. They don't seem to do well with very heavy rust, only lighter surface rust.
Your best bet is use expoy primer from a automotive paint shop , not parts store .Use the primer full striagth do not dilute with reducer .you can leave it as is or apply gloss black which is what I use because gloss black tends to stay clean while on the other hand mat black stains very easyly
Nice job overall! I would have made the cuts with a plasma cutter. Use a stick welder for better penetration. When grinding, make V grooves - not flat. You want an angle so your welds penetrate the steel. I'm not too fussy about undercoating. Power coating? WD40? Thanks for the video!
After this I got a 220v mig and what a difference it makes for frame welding! I used it to mini C-notch the frame of my 1980 2wd and it was a breeze. th-cam.com/video/ylkHDaurM6A/w-d-xo.html
A lot work done. You are so the best. I’m excited to fix my truck, but I’m stuck on what kind of steel to use, there are so many that make us confused. So, what kind of metal did you used?
As a welder, clean your metal more, and do longer beads. When you stop and start like that your having to re create a puddle adding more and more heat than you need to make, also if your not experienced your starts may not have as much penetration so doing longer beads will let you keep a deeper penetrating weld going.
@@6thGearGarage had the entire frame on my 05 Tacoma replaced under recall. The 07 Sequoia fell under the same recall but missed the recall cut-off date. The area around the driver side sway bar bushing is rusted all the way around and broken loose. Lots of rust from there back about 3 feet, on both sides of the boxed frame. It’s definitely repairable, but a decent size job. Have to drop the tank,lines, and exhaust to get enough access.
@@6thGearGarage I had a 1978 Jeep J10 back in the early 90s so it was about as old then as this Sequoia is now, and it had WAY more rust than this does now and people just accepted that it was was just a rusty “old” vehicle.
I have a 1981 Toyota pickup diesel, but it’s been sitting in a field for 20 years. The frame is decent except for on bolt sides where it curves down at the back. At both of those places it is rusted through and even cracked in half. I can’t really pull it out of the field like that, any tips to either repair it in the field or just brace it to bring home would be greatly appreciated.
I wouldn't try to repair it in the field. The truck needs to be on flat, level solid ground to be sure everything stays square and even. If you can, just weld on or bolt on some temporary bracing to hold it together until you can get it inside to repair it.
![Repairing a Rusty Frame on a GMT800 Truck [Cheap Duramax Part 2]](/img/n.gif)
I just bought a 94' Nissan pickup with about 10 years and 100 thousand miles worth of Ohio salt and rust. I keep watching videos of Californians/Southwesterners working on their 30 year old trucks with only the slightest surface rust. Then I look at my rust bucket and get discouraged when every bolt I try to remove is seized. Glad I found your channel!! Good to see someone with the same issues that has to use the same work arounds to even do the slightest repairs and maintenance! Thanks for these videos. Ive learned a lot
I've parted out a lot of trucks due to rust.y bodies & frames. Then one day I decided to see if I could save one. So I've been rebuilding a 1980 toyota that I got for $600 because it was a rust bucket. It's a long process, but I'm learning that it IS possible. But seriously, I'm buying my next Toyota from down south!
the truck is done ,, you can paint the frame but all the emtal si already dsit its amtter of time to start tusting again to outside
those nissans rust from the inside out due to all the holes they put in the frame😂
@@termonostruman No idea what any of that means
Had there been TH-cam videos like this back in the 90's I'd still have my Toyota Landcruiser. Toyotas from the 80's were notorious for rust.
I love the fj60 land cruisers. They’re extremely rare around here because they all rotted away 🙁
@@6thGearGarage thanks for the answer! is there a video where you use a plasma cutter in body repair?
Glad to see you take your safety seriously. Very nice job on removing everything, and cleaning it out, and then oiling it down after you made your MIG welds. I've always believed in oiling up your iron afterward, It's got a great history of fighting the rust off.
Thanks 👍
Only because you asked here is some constructive criticism:
When using a smaller welder, you should grind angles into your plate to get more penetration.
Flux core wire will weld thicker metal than gas shielded. At least according to the chart on my 2 welders.
When you make a repair like that it is better to build a box from 2 pieces of angle and then place splicing plates on top of the repair. Those splicing plates should have plug welds at points along the plate. The reason for this method it that your frame could suddenly split in half along the welds because of cracking caused by road vibrations. The best example of how to do this was on 4wd 24/7’s channel when they modified the 80 series to extend the frame.
Thanks for that advice! I always appreciate professionals who share their knowledge.
Bevel everything. This guy knows.
Can you send me the link to the video? I've got a vertical crack in the frame of my chevy truck. I need help to fix before winter season.
@@lawnstar1441
This video has all the basic concepts. When you cut out a piece you should place a welded plate on top that extends beyond the cuts to strengthen it. That cover plate should also be plug welded to your filler plate. For this you drill holes in the cover plate and weld them to the filler plate.
th-cam.com/video/YBdNtnASWis/w-d-xo.html
@@jflabeets1 yes when me and dad fixed my 80 chevy frame broken between cab and bed, we got new frame, beveled all, then welded it together like tongue n groove, not just butt weld 2 pieces of frame. Then used a diamond shaped piece over the weld, and plug welded. This was in 2003. Trucks still going. But I had to take off bed, etc. Alot of work but I feel it's a way better, long lasting repair than doing it with bed, suspension etc on frame. All kinds of room to work, etc. Easier u can work on your job, the better it'll be.
It was entertaining to watch and since you asked here is some food for thought on welding
Setting up the machine is probably easiest by the sound of how its welding
it should be a very consistent fast paced buzz
Welding is the art of heat control, too much heat and the whole part becomes soft and on some metals like stainless it destroys its rust properties and makes it brittle
too little heat - thick base metal being cold and the weld being hot, rapidly cooling down induces massive stress in the molecules cristalizing which result in cracks
Cracks are the worst outcome of a weld because they will propagate into the base metal and split it apart
dealing with cracks - you never want to weld on top of a crack instead you want to cut into the crack with your grinder so you take the metal out and eliminate the possibility of crack spreading
if the part is of high importance or is under a load then you have to drill small holes at the ends of the crack on top of grinding it out
Use a mindset of Heat = Time
the more time your welding the more heat you input into the part therefore you can crank the wire speed up and weld on thin metal by moving fast and the base metal stays solid
same with thick metal, you may need to preheat it before welding
Welding Positions - you would weld differently looking from above than if you were to weld from below looking up as you did in this project
laws of gravity are at play and with heat the metal gains viscosity
opposite happens as it gets colder it becomes hard and brittle
to do it properly you must take into account your angle of torch relative to the weld
going 90* is gonna result the most penetration and most likely will burn quickly through your base metal
the optimal is 30* in either the way your welding (push/pull) to ensure the most control over your input of heat and metal
with horizontal welds angle your torch 30* to the direction your going and 30* aiming up since the metal is gonna drip downwards from gravity and you keep pushing it up
for now i suggest you to work on your consistency and straightness of your welds and ignore the weaving patterns
get those lines straight and consistent
for best penetration, adhesion and formation on the other side of your piece you have to bevel your edges
easiest way to do it is run your grinder between the two pieces so it cuts a line between them halfway into the metal thickness
Tacking the pieces together is important
i saw that you held the bottom with a clamp as you fully welded the top
heat warps metal and bends the whole piece upwards raising the gap between your plates making it stick at an angle
having a clamp hold it does the job but i would still tack it on the bottom to ensure it cant bend out of position
tack diagonally from tack to tack going fully around it to ensure it cannot change the shape and create gaps
welding builds tension and stress in the metal due to change of heat and cristalization speed of metal which in turn increases the risks of cracks
Therefore you have to weld at a 1 3 2 4 pattern with your welds ending into your previous starting points to spread the heat and stress evenly across the whole piece
Going vertically from top to bottom is unacceptable in load bearing structures because of insufficient metal volume and penetration, so do it only on pieces that dont hold more than your own body weight at most
going from bottom to top vertically is a hard achievement to learn for people learning the skill but thats the only way you will have the piece not fail on you
if there was no side rail adding strength and rigidity to your frame i would encourage you to redo the welds
a tip you can use is weld the thing in tacks. start welding each new tack on top of the previous one before the metal stops glowing from heat to ensure that no cracks form and it fuses properly, for this you may have to hold it for a while depending on the thickness of the metal, otherwise welding vertical the proper way needs you to do a weaving patter going form side to side and pausing for a while to add volume.
i saw you had problems with welding accuracy by having welds not getting between the plates and just welding on top of the plates not even connecting the pieces together due to having problems seeing.
Yeah it sucks and its understandable, but remember there are people who get to weld hanging upside down in very high heat claustrophobic places with their arms extended sweat pouring down their mask with a MMA electrode in one hand bent more than 90* while holding a mirror in the other hand with nearly no room for error with pressure to complete the job. i can tell you it sucks real hard but you get to look back on it with a sense of pride because not everyone can do that irrelevant how much they get paid.
So ABOVE anything else the 1st thing that separates a professional welder from amateur hobbyist is the prep work and planning before each and every weld they do
it is literary 80% of welding, making sure that when you pull the gun, nothing can go wrong.
Get as comfortable as you can, from a side it might look lazy when the welder is lying down on the ground as if they have no care in the world but they are actually making sure that their hand doesnt get tired while doing the weld, it doesnt ever snag on anything, nothing is obstructing their process from start to finish. before each weld glide your hand over as if you were welding to test if it is perfect, worst thing that can happen to you is you hit your gun against something and it ruins the whole thing. in a professional environment you will be expected to grind the whole thing out and do it from start, certain types of metal cannot be stress heated multiple times and may result in cutting the whole thing out and doing it from the start. often these specialized metals with certain properties cost thousands of $ per sq ft area so as you might imagine, do the mistake twice and your fired.
basically comfort is your #1 priority for fancy welds, there is no correct way to hold the torch, if its more comfortable for you wrap it around your neck, hold it upside down, whatever.
after you got comfortable the next priority is sight, you cannot weld what you cannot see. i personally dislike the fixed shade lenses but they provide the most safety for your eyes, some old timers just got used to them before the auto dark existed and just stayed that way, some cant afford them. remember that the more light you let them pass through the more you will see what your doing and whats around you and the more UV will get into your eyes and damage your eyesight. all you need to see is the puddle of your weld and and right around it to see if your still moving correctly.
generally your movements should not exceed the width 2x of your wire, so it is a very small surgical precision.
I think consistency is only achieved through reacting to what you observe, dont look what goes next, keep it in your peripheral vision. dont stare into the brightest spot of weld, instead look at your puddle as it is cooling down and forming the shape. react if you need to move slightly faster as its getting too liquid or you need to slow down to add volume and prevent welding defects like undercut.
to be a good welder follow these 3 golden rules:
1. prep work, make sure nothing can go wrong, your fit up is spot on, the bevels are even across the whole length, there will be no surprises.
2. comfort. Your hand is so tired its killing you, you find yourself to finish the last inch you have to extend your arms in a unnatural way, it will directly reflect on the quality of your work.
3. consistency, your line looks as if its one single continuous flow with no thin or fat sections and no deviation to the sides, robotic movement.
it all comes naturally by experience just laying down welds with the intention of the next one being better than the previous one, there was a time i couldnt do something no matter how i tried and how angry i was and now what i can do with nearly my eyes closed thinking about something completely unrelated.
Another thing i would like to point out is that you grinded down your welds to go over the parts with no visible fusion, remember that the shape of the weld matters in how stress travels across the metal. since you didnt have full penetration at certain points and you grinded it down, a lot of the metal didnt get inbetween the plates to fuse them together so in reality while you cant see it, there may be barely anything holding it together making it the absolute weakest point in the structure, arguably even worse than when it was held together by rusted metal as it may be thinner.
Welder and paint may make you the welder you aint, but in the end of the day its your health your risking if the structure fails on you at the point of highest stress when you dont want it to happen the least, in this context imagine you drive over a bigger pothole while going full speed down the highway, your frame splits, the car leans to a side and you get thrown into the opposite lane traffic. Bad welders cost lives.
So to finish this long rant i want to remind people that this is only the tip of the iceberg not even touching the water, you start in welding, dive into metallurgy, find yourself in chemistry and get lost in physics. i hope people who make it through this wall of text gain more knowledge and respect on the subject. nobody knows everything and nobody is too good to learn. having the skillset of gluing two pieces of metal together and have them stick is gonna give you the possibility to create anything that your imagination is capable of projecting and is gonna be valuable till the very last day you spend on this earth.
If anyone has anything to add, feel free.
To 6th Gear Garage, if you have any questions feel free to reach out, i feel like this channel is on a path to become big, good to observe it in this stage
Thanks for taking the time to hare your knowledge, I read all of it and will probably re-read it every time before I start a welding project!
I"m saving this comment for reference for my own welding projects!
I appreciated your write up, often people are too lazy to read such a long comment but there is always something to learn from others.
Nice writeup. I appreciate that.
Somebody has too much spare time wtf
Cover it in Fluid film or bar and chain oil If you cut it with Diesel fuel you could spray it out of a gun. Amazon even sells a kit with Fluid film.
Fellow Ohioan here, I feel your pain with the road salt. Nice work on the frame!
Thanks 👍
Man, what dedication to your truck. I think most folks would have scrapped it a while ago. Nice work.
Thanks! I'd really love to swap the whole frame with a rust free one one day.
@@6thGearGarage I personally appreciate trying to keep the old frame alive, since for me it's just not an option to go find a frame from some southern state.
@@1873Winchester keep your mitts off our frames! Hahaha kidding.....a bit...
@@REAPER3fitty Don't worry I'm all the way over in Finland
@@1873Winchester I need to drive out west with a trailer one day and bring a stack of nice frames back to Ohio.
This is great! I had a 1989 Toyota 4WD pickup that I bought new in May of 1989 for 12K. One of the first things that I did to the frame was to coat it with Karnak roofing tar. I've read stories on how you should never coat frames with Karnak, but that was years after I had already coated it. If it's good for a roof being exposed to 4 seasons of punishment, it must be good for the truck frame. I must say that when I sold the truck in 2016, there was not a bit of rust or corrosion on the frame, and I lived in the New York Tri-State area where they apply salt to the roads just for kicks. Body panels and doors were all loaded with rust, but the frame was the least rusted part of the truck. The center cross piece that held the spare tire carrier was rusted beyond recognition and that was because I never coated that. I now own two Tacomas. My older Tacoma that I bought used is showing signs of corrosion and I'm going to fix her up because that was the last good Tacoma engine and transmission wise. My other Tacoma is a 2021 which I'm not too crazy about, but I intend on keeping it for a long time. So, I plan to coat the frame with Karnak. Hey, if it worked the first time, it should do OK for my newer Tacoma.
Isn't it funny how much they use to cost?? I got a new 88 4X4 for 9600$ off the lot in December of 1988, that truck owed me nothing!! Now these things are nearly 50K, and the frames last 8 years, it's insane!!
Wasn't Karnak one Johnny Carson's character bits on the tonight show? " You are correct sir" !! 🤣
Great video...Just so you know...When I done the rusted parts of the frame on my 95 Tacoma I used a big extendable magnet tool to get the big chunks of rust out of the frame. It was pretty easy that way. Then I put the shop vac on one end of the frame as I used compressed air on the other end to blow the smaller rust particles into the shop vac. It worked pretty well for me. Its just the way I done it... and another option. But good job bro!
That's a really good idea- thanks!!
That's exactly what I did, and some strong magnets attached to rods I could bend. The chunks that came out were massive!!!
One tip for you mate , You used hot rolled steel No probs Best though to grind of all the blue mill scale or usr cold rolled, then prime both sides with red oxide primer buff the edges before welding After welding dress welds and prime up you then have along lasting surface ready for final coating Internally you can, for existing metal use a phosphoric type oxidation arrester which goes black and chemically seals the surface and also can hold a primer for extra protection I am a retired Fitter welder and have done plenty of this work Your Video was well presented for an amateur ,well done
Thanks for that advice! I always appreciate professionals who share their tips.
Will the phosphoric type oxidation arrester stop existing rust in the inner walls of the frame? If its not too bad.
Your patience, attention span and attention to detail are very admirable
Thanks, I really appreciate it!
That's the enormous advantage of the old style frame compared to modern car chassis. It's an immense advantage when you need to work on it. Not a perfect looking weld but as far as it contact the two pieces fully and as deep as possible, it's a good one.
Very comprehensive video sir. I commend anyone who's actually doing this kind of work on their older vehicles. Being an owner of a 97 GMC Yukon, I was fortunate enough to still have a solid frame that didn't require welding repair. However the surface rust along the frame as well as towards the back of the vehicle (where the spare tire sits) was absolutely horrendous. I ended up using a needle scaler to get the majority of the rust off, cleaned the frame with POR15 rust remover and a pressure washer, then proceeded to spray it with fluid film oil spray. Unfortunately the fluid film didn't last very long and dried off within 3 months of application. It's a real shame that North American weather and road brine don't play nice with our relics. Keep that truck beautiful bud ✌🤟
The best thing for Fluid Film is to drive down a dusty road after application. The dust will help it adhere to the metal better and last longer.
@@6thGearGarage I appreciate the advice. I will be doing that come fall time for sure.
That was a great job. Looks like the previous guy who welded the rusty spots on my frame just patched over the rust like you said. Oh well. .. I'll try to make my repairs more like yours. Thanks for all the great advice. Excellent video. Subscribed!
I rebuilt the frame on my F350 and used a product called Steel It. It's a spray on, looks like galvanized when dry. Been 8 yrs in upstate NY and no rust. It is pricey though but after spending 15k on a rebuild of the truck and the time invested, it was the best option.
For future reference you should use a 220 setup to weld stuff that thick if you want good penetration. Also remember higher amps isnt always more heat, more heat can be added by moving slower. Beveling your plates will help as well. Also flux core welds pretty good as long as you switch your polarity, most of the time they come out pretty decent with only a little spatter.
Flux core is naturally hotter typically so it does penetrate better than some would think,
A 220 welder is the end all be all for sure tho
@@articat568 yeah ive actually had great luck with my old century flux core machine haha shes an old tank welds good for small stuff around the house.
I sometimes run a 110v flux core welder off my miller trailblazer in my service truck. It welds heavy ass hooks onto 1” plate loader buckets pretty well. Just hard on the lil sucker for sure.
My Forney Easy Weld 261, 140 FC-i Welder, 120V claims to weld up to 1/4 steel. I am sure it is definitely cable of weld 3/16, let alone 1/8.
220 is for sure a stronger weld . 110 will
Not get hot enough
Great video. Having dealt with Toyota frame rust for years, I recommend taking the entire body off the frame. It's easier to cut out and grind all the rusted areas inside and out. Prime and paint the inside and outside of the frame after removing all of the rust. Yes, rust can grow under the paint, but it's not as bad as people say, and there will be little to none if you oil the frame after the paint has cured for a while. You don't need a lift to take the body off. There are some good YT videos that can help.
The job would be so much easier with the cab removed. I removed the bed & gas tank when I repaired the rear section of the frame and it was a breeze. Dirt Garage had a good episode on removing a 4runner body using four 55 gallon steel drums and then he just rolled the frame out from under it.
@@6thGearGarage we need more detailed body/cab removal videos. I saw an old one a while back, but the rest really don't get into the fine details and lessons learned.
@@vb1gbg I hope to be removing the cab from my 1980 soon. I will be sure to get a video of it.
Hey man great video just a bit of advice unhook your battery terminals before welding or grounding the vehicle! This trucks older so not to many sensitive electronics! But good practice is to unhook the battery!
Good call!
I weld a lot , I'm not an but know what I'm doing. First off a Lincoln 240v welder is much better.
Also from lots of experience and testing, you don't need a visually perfect looking weld to be strong.
I weld aluminium as well, more tricky than mild steel but rewarding . Alun is 1\3rd lighter and 2\3 less strong as well compared to steel.
Enjoyed watching this video.
Thanks! I got a 240v welder for another frame job and it was night and day difference!
@@6thGearGarage yes it is, but the 110v is more portable and you can use it for small jobs.
I did the same job on my Pajero/montero gen/mk 1 . I also used a naillscaler and air hammer outside of the frame. It really helped to losen and brake of the rust scaling on the inside and even pulverize it in smaller chunks for easyer vacuuming. I also blassed it with air/chock tank on the opposite ends.
Its also really important to jack up the frame and even brase it so it wont bend, twist or sagg were you have to cut big holes or litle left on the frame.
I filled it with fluid film and a diy redneck mix of geease, wax and oil inside after 2 weeks after the fluid film... Just for sh*ts and Giggles
Let me guess. Rear arch, just below the drop link?
Thank you for that video.
I noticed when you were welding horizontal and overhead.
It may be easier to spot the weld in as you go. Hold your trigger a couple seconds each time to achieve max penetration. You wont have to go back over your weld and it will give a great ripple effect like a aluminum weld
Keep up the great work 👍.
That is exactly what i do.
I think your proposed primer/epoxy is as good as you will get. A zinc rich paint on the inside is what I would do.
Great job btw. It does take a lot of time to get it right.
Thanks for the video - enjoyed it thoroughly.
Sweet Truck. I used to own a 1980 and my brother had an '86 Toyota. Now I have a fully restored 1976 K20 Chevy. Shout out to Road Salt! Ha ha. Nice work bro! I have a few pro tips for you. BTW 15 liters/min is about 30 CFH. I typically weld at 15 CFH...so you might want to try using half as much flow to save gas. Second, you could also squirt motor oil into the frame. That works as well.
Thanks, I'll turn it down a bit! I did use Fluid Film on the frame later in the video because it atomizes well with the spray gun and covers the inside.
I have drilled a frame for better drainage. I drilled the ends as well to power wash directionally.
Then I drilled some flat metal with a larger hole. Then welded those over the hole to increase strength with out restricting the drain.
After painting the complete frame. I use a hand pump (2gal) to spray a mix inside each hole from as many directions and as solid as possible.
My favorite mix is WD40/Marvel Mystery Oil.
Buy both by the gal 🤦🏻♀️ I like the smell of both
Btw it destroys the sprayer. You will have to buy a new one yearly
Keep them clean and lubricated help to prevent future problems 😮
Enjoyed your video
Thanks for the tips! Do you use a compressor type sprayer or a garden/weed killer type sprayer?
I do something similar but using waxoyl. I drill out holes along the chassis / body ares... add waxoyl and then fit plugs. I generally plop some sealant over the plugs. Every year I pull the plugs and rewaxoyl the chassis. So far so good.
@@6thGearGarage weed/garden
@@harwoods11 good idea 👍
That's a lot of work! I've always used blended 75%Argon/25%CO2 gas for steel MIG and straight Argon for steel TIG.
I said argon in the video, but I actually meant 75/25. I just got a refill, about to start replacing the floors in another rusty truck!
Did you consider descaler for the inside? On areas that you can reach with it anyway.. also, Eastwood has a great internal frame coating that reviews well.
I've never tried the descaler, I'll look into that. I saw Eastwood had a frame coating, but I was nervous about that flaking off after a while and sitting in the bottom of the frame.
@@6thGearGarage if you minimize or knock down the flakes, its meant to adhere to and encapsulate rust to stop its growth
Thanks for the helpful video. Helped inspire me to patch the rust on my GMC’s frame. To clean the inside, I found the best tool is a rotating chimney sweep brush and garden hose to wash the dust out.
The next coating: If You ar e willing to clean the whole frame very well, then clean it and brush a coat of zink in it first, attach some boating anodes and then coat it with any soft rock guard. After the zink and soft guard on top, it'll last a thousand years.
Hey I just wanna say good on you for going ahead and doing this. After reading forums and Reddit some of those guys would’ve said scrap it, when probably 90% of them have never even tried, and are just going off what others have said. 👍
I've learned that this is just part of owning an old Toyota. It's worth the effort because the rest of the trucks are so tough!
I used to use POR15 as well but have recently switched to Rust Seal. I watched some comparison videos and it turns out with better results and has a slight flexibility as well. But I always use a rust converter first.
I've always used POR15 but I'm glad to see there are more alternative options on the market. POR15 isn't cheap!
@@6thGearGarage I find POR15 works well on surface rusted metal. You have to chip off all the thick scale, then power wash it and wipe down with acetone or brake cleaner. BUT, you cannot use POR15 on ether clean metal or painted metal, it will peel. It's designed to stick to light surface rust as it chemically bonds to it, and it does very well if stuck to that application only...
@@dc6233 I just tried a POR15 alternative called Rustproof MD in my latest video of the rusty 1980 frame and I'm happy with the results so far. I decided to try it because it is UV resistant.
Great job! Did the exact same steps to my Toyota, cut-clean-weld-paint-fluid film... I will never do it again. FRAME SWAP :)
Same here, I'd love to find a rust free frame
I was thinking that watching this video. His repair was a great structural repair but if you wanted to do full on restoration, you’d be better off doing a frame swap and powder coating it. Absolutely major job and incredibly expensive.
@@reaper-sz5tm Easiest and cheapest route is to find a wrecked truck, preferably rolled, and use that frame.
Something to consider applying to inside the frame when its open and cleanish is rust converter (tannic acid) which stabilises the rust somewhat, its very thin and wont fall off and into the bottom of the rail. then put your spray liquid stuff over that.
Watching your video again, I have used self etching primer on bare metal. Then i used PB Baster Surface Shield. The frame looks black because dirty clings to it making it look black. Helps identify area's with high wash off that need to be recoated. I've done it a few times and its holding up nice and strong at my repair areas. There are some area's of the frame that need repair that i will be doing this year to hopefully end all ROT that was on it.
Good video, if you want to make it easier to get the cuts perfect, just take your new plate, put it on top the old one and cut the two plates at the same time. The cut on the new plate will match exactly the one your cutting out. If you cut it on a 45 degree angle, the new plate won't have any gap from the thickness of the cutting wheel. See Fitzee's Fabrications for that one! He is the master of the cut n butt! Take care!
Best video I have ever seen on utube. In my whole life.
This is exactly how I dreamed of fixing my truck.
The. Best. Video. I. Ever. See.............
This must be a $55,000,00 job what a dedicate man.
I loved this video, watched it to the bitter end. Funny thing is I bought a 93 Toyota truck with the R22. I had to do the exact same thing to mine. All the rear end needed welded and some up front. Tossed the box it was so bad. Fun to see someone els going thru this hell.
Just another day in northern Ohio!
Bevel both edges of the material being welded to about 1/16” it will/should give you the penetration needed with such a large heat sink(long plate and truck frame with thickness at/just beyond upper limit of welder). Flux core may penetrate better. And, if you had a gas mixer set up and separate cylinders if Argon and CO2 you might could ratio argon and CO2 differently from pure Argon or a 75/25% mix for a bit better penetration but a higher amp Mig/mag machine might be a better investment for you than that money spent on a gas mixer set up.
Thanks, I really want to get a 220 one day!
Love your confidence. It's helping me to get to tackle the two spots on my tundra
You might want to check out PB Blaster Surface Shield... It's been tested against all other lanolin products and won over the competition ( also made in Ohio)... It stays where you put it... Dave (Massillon, Ohio)
Thanks Dave, I just heard about Surface Shield after I made this video and it sounds like a win!
I appreciate you showing bad weld jobs and what you used to cut the frame with.
Absolutely... I try to keep it real, even if it means showing my goof ups.
Hello. In Russia, , pushsalo" ( Пушечное сало -Cannon fat) is often used for frame processing. I don't know how it is properly called in English. Initially, this composition was used for the preservation of weapons.
Enjoyed your video and thoughts. Dude , people don't realize that it is so hard to see WTF you are doing when laying on the floor, having stuff up on a lift is a game changer. Even with a decent helmet, and good lights, it's hard to see your welds and not get grinding debris in your eyeballs. New clear plastic for the helmets shade shield is a must, and moving lights exactly where you want them matters too. I have the Lincoln SP180 plus, and it does a bit thicker than 3/16th or .1875 very well, I do highly recommend wiring either with 230V. You are probably in a similar position to most of us, where we run a direct burial 12 gauge wire and get 20 amps to our shop with a black, white and neutral, but no L2 for 230V, but often it's all we can afford. If you can, search around for some #6 stranded wire, run it in plastic conduit and you'll have 50/60 amps (the ground can be #12). I can run an entire good sized shop off of 60 amps, because I'm not welding while running a mill or a lathe or a grinder at the same time, never pulling too many amps even with a heater running in the winter. Running a 1/0 wire to my shop for a 100 amp panel would have cost me 7K$. Toyota seems to use 3mm steel or .118" and they fold or put 90's on the top and bottom for an "L" shape. I bought .125 - 2 x 2 angle iron, some .125 plate X 6/5/3/1.5" wide steel and have lots of it left over; the 90's are what makes it strong. To keep it from rusting I am looking into the lanolin products because paint, POR15, powder coating etc just seems to lift over time because moisture gets under it, and oil makes a mess everywhere you park; There has to be a barrier from the steel to the oxygen elements or it rusts again... My 03 frame got swapped in 2008, it was garbage again by 2018 or 10 years later, the steel they use must be recycled garbage steel...
I'm getting a 220v welder before I weld the frame on my current project, a 1980 Toyota pickup. I should have bought one a long time ago. Hard to believe that frame only lasted 10 years!! Thats a bummer
Frame plates should end in a point, not straight up and down as it creates a stress riser in a single plane that leads to cracks
I need this done to my car do you have a shop location? No shops by me deal with rust repair
Sorry I do not have a shop. I am just working in my residential garage.
Having the tank empty is way worse. That leaves room for fumes that can blow up
Thanks for pointing that out.. I never thought about that!
I’m no pro, but I heard that to avoid the vapour the gas tank needs to be either emptied washed out and completely dried or actually filled right up before it is welded - Ive used the wash and dry method but don’t think I’ll try the fill method myself 😅
Definitely one of the better repairs I've seen. Great if you are looking for a few more years out of it, but for my money and time a trip south for a rust free frame. Can have frames galvanized or powdercoated for not alot of money.
Honestly you really shouldn’t be repairing sections of the frame that way. No reputable shop would do that. I know you don’t want to hear it but the only way that truck should be used is off road only. It’s time for farm use parts or the crusher .God forbid you get 8n an accident and get hit hard your dead , that frame is going to fold like nothing. That’s not even mentioning the fact that you run the risk of it breaking especially if you load it with a good sized payload.
@Mister Beans empty, wash out, dry. Then hook a tail pipe onto it and will it with exhaust, no more oxygen. Then you can weld on it
I stick weld those with 2.5 esabs in the uk. Weld finish is superb and fusion ensured.
When you patch a frame you should never do straight up and down welds that makes a very weak point. Any frame built from the 80s up until current they put giant fish mouths and overlap the steel they do not but it up against each other.
I've heard that. And the plate on the frame for the IFS steering box, when I installed Hi-steer, was fish plated. But I've always done straight welds on the frame repairs for this truck because they were just one wall at a time and not a high stress area, unlike the steering box. But maybe I've just been lucky so far with them holding up. I'll give the fish plate a try on the next one... thanks for the heads up! (If I don't find a nice frame and do a frame swap!)
A butt weld with an additional fish/diamond plate over the top would also be acceptable.
Used Rust Barrier on my 4runner brake calipers and has held up well for 3 years.
Thanks, good to hear. Calipers get hot too, so looks like it's a good product.
Por-15 is excellent as an encapsulator. It needs to cover every bit of rust.
But with painting an entire frame like your first attempt - it’s almost impossible to encapsulate because you’ll have to cover the inside also otherwise the moisture will creep behind the por-15.
Also it’s tricky stuff in terms of prep and getting all contaminants off a rusty frame is…. A challenge to say the least.
Just paint the outer with epoxy primer & inner with something like Dynax S-50 and it’ll outlive the truck. Good job with the repair though bro.
Thats what wool wax or fluid film is for
@@4WheelKid nah por-15 is best used when rust has already set in. Clue is in the name. If some metal has got to the point that it’s a bit sketchy, por is usually enough to save it in my experience but I wouldn’t use it as a preventative measure by any means.
Watch Mustie 1... I own a 2003 Tacoma and read a TON of things on frame protection since I live in Wisconsin. I used his method after priming everything and letting it cure. Bar and chain oil is better than fluid film and WAAAAY more affordable. I've had no problems since my repairs 5 years ago.
good idea... Bar and chain is thick stuff!
@@6thGearGarageI followed what he did, first warmed it. There was a ratio.(15% ish) but cut it with some type of thinning agent to spray. Same equipment/ principle as Fluid film application, purchased the sprayer, wand and approx 4' hose at Harbor or a Farm supply. I liked it, it has the creeping quality to soak into the crevices. Even works well after dust sucks to it
Try fluid film
I did :) toward the end of the video
I used rustoleum professional paint on my frame oil based and its been holding up well
Should have applied a Weld Thru Primer (misnomer it's zinc/copper coating) on the inside of your patch piece to protect the inside from rust before welding. Both SEM/Upol offer. This is oem standard body shop repair procedure for inaccessible seams after welding since mig weld will destroy e-coat/paint and you can't paint it after. Also I would have hit the inside of the old good part of the frame with rust converter paint before fluid film.
Your welds are bad tbh - poor penetration - i wouldn't call those structural. Inspect from rear side . I bet they're vry bad. Should practice more on same thickness scrap and dial in your welds beforehand and do destructive test of them to make sure your welds are solid. I will not be hitting you up to do any suspension parts welding for me, no offense.
Yeah, I really wish I had a 220v welder. I used one before and it was effortless compared to trying to weld thick steel with this 110v. I really hope I can buy a rust free frame from down south, as this one has seen better days. No offense taken... I always appreciate advice from professionals/people who know more than I do.
It's easy to sit at home and write trolling remarks....the lad at least had the gumption to crawl under that rusty old truck and work on it, kudos to him, it's his truck, leave him alone, he's doing and learning like everyone else does.
Signed
A 66 year old pipe fitters & fabricator
@@6thGearGarage Flux core runs hotter and can do thicker work on same voltage. For frame work its perfectly ok if its a bit messier and you can always use some antispatter around the work area if it bothers you. Stick welding is also cheap and very good for frame work. For thin sheet metal/cosmetic work obvi wire mig is preferable as you probably knew already from your other work.
@@robertward8037 unfortunately the rest of us have to be on the road with half assed structural welds so kindly shove it. thanks.
@@robertward8037 Thanks, I always get some flack on videos. I did it this way because it repaired the back half of the frame the exact same way 10 years ago and it's still great. Everyone has their own ways and I'm always up for trying a new method, as well as sharing one that worked for me.
Nice repair job. Sadly we have bad rust in Norway too. Its a pain. I envy the guys in warmer climates.
I'd love to find a rust free frame and swap it, but I'd have to drive across the country to look for one.
I bet sunny California that's we're I'm from San Jose CA now I'm in West Virginia and bought a Toyota Tacoma 2004 and dealing with rust bought it in wellstone Ohio a few months and spraying rust remover products any opinions will be very helpful thanks love you're video you are one BADASS TO THE BONE! KEEP ON TRUCKING VATO!
I'd suggest just using your natural, conversational voice when you talk to us. The Mr. Announcer voice gets annoying after a while. Just be real. Like you're talking to a group of friends.
Thank you for the feedback 👍
Shut up!
I did enjoy 👌
Will that last long rust wise? And it’s strong as factory that and any welding?
Thanks
@@bernardopriolo8383 That area of the frame should be good for many decades. Now I need to keep an eye on the other areas of the frame for rust.
When I do bare metal I preheat it with a hand torch to evaporate the surface moisture then use the self etching primer and I like top coating with implement paint from tractor supply. Spraying the inner frame with a zinc coating or weld thru primer would be a great addition too.
I would lose my mind repairing that.
Hour a night my friend lol
Nvm the longer I watch this you're completely right
@@TheFeed816 I lose my mind doing shit with sheet metal. Being under that truck tryna weld shit I would be yelling withing an hour
In England we have a product called Waxoil Rust Protection. This can be sprayed into enclosed areas like sills (think you call them rockers in the USA) or frames. Would have been good to do this before welding although you could still spray it through the holes you showed us. Very good. Be good if all car manufacturers use it in high rusting parts of the country.
That is a very good solution. I did the same with a product called Fluid Film toward the end of the video. I highly recommend it 👍
Too bad the frames were not made from aluminum.
Aluminum is 2x stronger pound for pound compared to steel (when it comes to impacts) but aluminum tears easily.
Yeah, the other issue is that they didnt put alot of effort into designing things not to hold mositure, if they would have done that combined with actually coating the frame inside and out with a substance like por 15 we wouldnt be having these rust issues.
Some simple weep holes would be nice vs just side breathing ports
Aluminum will suffer the same fate. For example, all liftgates on Ford Explorer & Expedition corrode. Aluminum wheels dissolve. If you're not from the midwest/NE, salt kills every thing.
Please tell me you’re kidding😅
Thank you for a great video on the repair of the frame of your Toyota truck. Your monologue during your work enhanced the content by explaining exactly why you were doing what you were doing. Your emphasis on the importance of thoroughly cleaning debris from inside boxed frames is one thing ignored in many online videos about the repair of truck frames. Often, videos show the installation of frame repair caps with no mention nor evidence that any effort was made to clear debris from inside the frame first. Without such cleaning it seems obvious that any attempt to effectively apply anti-rust chemicals after repairs would be impossible. One can imagine your frame boxed-in with its debris pile still in place. How could any anti-rust material be expected to adequately coat the frame interior? Instead, the debris can trap salt and water from winter highways and block anti-rust materials from reaching many of the areas where they are critically needed. Additionally, the debris can eventually block frame drain holes which might have allowed water intrusion to escape. I realize that in some frame repair situations it may be required to cut a hole or enlarge an existing one through which to gain access for effective debris removal. However, how can such important, safety related repairs be considered complete without an comprehensive plan to prevent a repeat failure?
100%, prep is the most important part of the job!
So many bad fixes when it comes to cars, even youtube videos showing how to do it..
Well, if don't you got money to give us for a new vehicle. Su.
Like fr if you think you know better make a video
@@notsuspicious1113 maybe I should, just done a car
@@lskogstad prove it
@@levikender4820 ok where do u want to see? photos?
I’ve had great luck with East woods products for frame restorations and protection.
Thanks I will have to check them out!
We had one like that years ago. Cut the frame off and slipped a s10 frame on it from the cab back. Worked great bed even mounted looking right. Spring width was within a half inch or so.
Good to know... I may keep my eye out for a clean S10 frame!
Awesome job to take on ,now that truck is going to be better, without all that rust . 😊😊😊😊😊
Thanks 👍
A cheap sand blaster and needle scaler are your best friend for this stuff, I got a sand blaster off Amazon for $25 CAD and a needle scaler at Princess Auto for $40 on sale, did my whole F350 frame, then did 2 coats of oil based rust paint (I've used epoxy's and POR they chip too easy and under perform for the price point), In the frame I would recommend Ziebart it's reaaaaaly good stuff, seen it in car's from the 80's and it holds up very well, if your on a tight budget diesel with used oil will work just need to do it more often. Also when you have the opportunity to weld both sides of your patch it can't hurt if your worried about penetration. I think your welds are fine for what it is good work, Going to be doing my 83 in a bit here, never though I'd see the day, just can escape it with these trucks.
A tip for anyone, doesn't really need to be empty and long as you're away from the tank itself. Clear the lines by unplugging the fuel pump relay/fuse while the truck is on. And let it die out.
Great video and solid work 💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽. Greetings from Argentina!
Thank you 🙌
If I went that far with a frame repair, I would've tried to blow out as much from inside the frame as possible, maybe even do a power wash inside, but after letting it all dry, spray some form of anti-rust / rust converter inside, too. I've used "Coroseal" on my 2006 Colorado's underside. It's not perfect, but does pretty good. This winter (before winter) I'm going to go underneath and reapply another lay of Coroseal and once it cures, apply Woolwax to everything. Coroseal is non-flammable, so applying it to any bare metal you can access before welding is a must. You could still do that with a 360 rattle can hose-nozzle + air compressor + spray gun, if you're up for the task...
I did later in the video ;) I haven;t tried Woolwax, but I've become a fan of Fluid Film. I didn't use a converter on the inside of the frame because when it peels and flakes off, that will be more debris inside of the frame.
It would be great if you could do a 1-year update on your welds/paintjob/fluid film application, how does it hold up over time?
So far so good, I'll work on an update video soon!
@@6thGearGarage Awesome thanks!
At some point I'd like to do my T-100 and I'm looking at Woolwax which seems interesting.. I have a patch on my frame in the exact same spot..lol😆 Great vid..👍
I've heard good things about Woolwax as well.
Glad we don't have to deal with road salt in Australia. Great video as always keep up the good work.
Seeing all these rust fighting videos makes me adore southwest Texas even more. Couldn't be luckier as a car guy to be born here. Props and prayers to rust belt mechanics
Dude😏 you’re my hero🙌🏼
If ONLY I had your time, backup vehicle, and ambition!💚
I procrastinated for a couple of years on this project. It's a long, dirty job. But now it feels good to have it done!
I commend you on your patience for that frame
Thanks, when I can afford it I plan to buy a rust free frame from out west and have it shipped to OH and do a full swap.
very thorough explanations. well done
Thank you!
Great vid...Nice ride! I had the same pickup, a white 1987 Toyota. But it got stolen a couple of years ago.....sucks!!!!
Sorry to hear that... That would be my worst nightmare
Use PFC. That stuff is awesome. It is a thick gooey slime that adheres well and doesn't allow moisture to gather underneath.
I haven't heard of it, I will check it out!
Drill access holes in the frame that are spaced out a little shorter than the length of your Fluid Film extension hose. That way you can hit all parts of the frame inside, with no gaps in coverage.
Good call
I recommend Fluid Film or Rust Check. I coated the entire undercarriage of my brand new Tundra back in 2019, frame still looks perfect today. The tar or rubberized products will only trap moistures and accelerate the rust. I would never use them.
I'm a long time fan of fluid film. I'm hearing a lot about a new product called Surface Shield (made by PB Blaster) as well.
@@6thGearGarage I think as long as it's oil based, it's safe to use.
@@6thGearGarage, it's better than fluid film
Glad TH-cam recommended this video to me. Luv the video. I have a b15 Sentra that’s sat for 8-9 months who’s undercarriage is rusting away. I put Eastwood rust encapsulation on it last year, but it only lasted a year. I want to preserve it. Never welded in my life or have a compressor, but when the spring comes I want to tackle this in my driveway.
If you're welding anything 1/8" or thicker, I'd use a more powerful welder than the one I used in this video. I recently got a 220v Mig by Arc Captain (was actually cheaper than my 110v Lincoln) for some frame welding and it was so much better. th-cam.com/video/CRIvLpJfvgg/w-d-xo.html
Great job! Maybe you could have sprayed the metal frame patches with weld-through primer on the inside before welding in place. Would first using the wand to spray a coat of rust converter inside the frame before applying fluid film be good?
As scaled as the inside was, I'm nut sure if a rust converter would have made much of a difference. I make it a habit to keep the inside coated in fluid film. So if I go through deep water, or mud gets in the frame and I have to wash it out, then I will apply more fluid film to the inside. In the long run, this frame will need to be replaced, but I'm extending its life in the meantime.
Nice video how long will 2008 Tacoma last before one will looking out for route?
Lifespan of the frame depends on what region it's in, how it's driven, and how it's maintained. I'd crawl under and have a look.
Thank you man I'm just confused on the bit fo u paint the inside or leave it
I used Fluid Film on the inside, later in the video.
Ive used this "FDC Rust Converter Ultra, Highly Effective Professional Grade Rust Repair" bought 1 gallon on Amazon. I just painted it on and it converts the rust to a purple color.
I've used a product once that did that - changed the rust to a black/purple color. It worked well.
back when these frames were new and rust free they were pretty strong as Toyota basically has 2 pieces of c channel that shove into each other that were welded at the top and bottom, however as you have shown that design is prone to rust jacking and rusting from the inside out. I hit the frame jackpot for my truck as I still have factory paint on the inside of my frame. If I were you I would keep your eyes open for a good frame from a southern truck as it looks like your frame is starting to near the end of its life. one thing to note is a 2wd frame has the same arch as a solid axle 4wd frame and they are typically cheaper and easier to find.
100% at some point I'd love to find a clean frame and swap, so I don't have to keep doing this repair process.
@@6thGearGarage I will keep my eyes open for you. I live on the edge of the rust belt so it's not uncommon to find clean frames near me.
@@retro_88yota I appreciate it!
Excellent video very informative thank you. I wonder why no welder ever use rust converters, I am not a welder but I would have thought it’d be a good idea to get a few coats of rust converter inside the frame and outside where there are surface rusts? Are they a bad product to use from you welders prospective ?
I'm not a professional welder, but I've had mixed results with rust converters. They don't seem to do well with very heavy rust, only lighter surface rust.
i am a sucker for rusty 4runners and i live in michigan lol thanks for the help man
Same! I just bought a rusty 85 4runner for my next project.
Your best bet is use expoy primer from a automotive paint shop , not parts store .Use the primer full striagth do not dilute with reducer .you can leave it as is or apply gloss black which is what I use because gloss black tends to stay clean while on the other hand mat black stains very easyly
Would stick welding be good for this process or you gotta use mig?
Stick welding would work well here.
good job and good comments to help with future repairs the more you listen and do it the better
Nice job overall! I would have made the cuts with a plasma cutter. Use a stick welder for better penetration. When grinding, make V grooves - not flat. You want an angle so your welds penetrate the steel. I'm not too fussy about undercoating. Power coating? WD40? Thanks for the video!
After this I got a 220v mig and what a difference it makes for frame welding! I used it to mini C-notch the frame of my 1980 2wd and it was a breeze. th-cam.com/video/ylkHDaurM6A/w-d-xo.html
I have/own a 1985 toyota turbo desiel....1.45 MILLION KM Still runs great...
Wow!!! Congrats!
A lot work done. You are so the best. I’m excited to fix my truck, but I’m stuck on what kind of steel to use, there are so many that make us confused. So, what kind of metal did you used?
Thanks! I used A36 Hot Rolled Steel, Low Carbon.
@@6thGearGarage Thank you
pretty much like us in quebec canada road salt destroy our trucks ! you did a great job man
Thanks! I would love to swap the whole frame out for a nice southern rust free one some day.
@@6thGearGarage yeah that would be the perfect thing to do to save that truck for many more years !
As a welder, clean your metal more, and do longer beads. When you stop and start like that your having to re create a puddle adding more and more heat than you need to make, also if your not experienced your starts may not have as much penetration so doing longer beads will let you keep a deeper penetrating weld going.
Nicely done, both the truck and the video. I’m starting frame repairs on my 07 Sequoia. Good times! Subscribed.
Thanks 👍 Hard to imagine an 07 already needs the frame repaired!
@@6thGearGarage had the entire frame on my 05 Tacoma replaced under recall. The 07 Sequoia fell under the same recall but missed the recall cut-off date. The area around the driver side sway bar bushing is rusted all the way around and broken loose. Lots of rust from there back about 3 feet, on both sides of the boxed frame. It’s definitely repairable, but a decent size job. Have to drop the tank,lines, and exhaust to get enough access.
@@andrewreece3861 it's a shame the recalls "expire" and a bigger shame that after 30 years, Toyota is still using frames that rot away.
@@6thGearGarage I had a 1978 Jeep J10 back in the early 90s so it was about as old then as this Sequoia is now, and it had WAY more rust than this does now and people just accepted that it was was just a rusty “old” vehicle.
@@andrewreece3861 I haven't seen a J10 around here in forever!
I have a 1981 Toyota pickup diesel, but it’s been sitting in a field for 20 years. The frame is decent except for on bolt sides where it curves down at the back. At both of those places it is rusted through and even cracked in half. I can’t really pull it out of the field like that, any tips to either repair it in the field or just brace it to bring home would be greatly appreciated.
I wouldn't try to repair it in the field. The truck needs to be on flat, level solid ground to be sure everything stays square and even. If you can, just weld on or bolt on some temporary bracing to hold it together until you can get it inside to repair it.