I know this is a year old by now, but WOW what a JOB! I can't imagine doing all that work; some people would say it's not worth it but I commend you for tackling it! Very informative and fascinating video. I just recently decided to get into cars so stuff like this is very appreciated! So from one Ohioan to another, thank you!
In my younger days I would have parted this truck out and scrapped the body & frame. I finally decided to take on a true challenge and although it's been a year already, it should be on the road by summer! Thanks for watching!
Makes me question my sanity, got an Opel Kadett which has similar or even bigger wholes on the driver and passanger side with doors rusted from the bottom up 🥲
Getting started is honestly the hardest part because it seems overwhelming. Once I got to cutting I was motivated to keep going. Then once you get to the cardboard template phase and see it all starting to come together, you're on the home stretch.
Wow man. I thought my truck was a goner but seeing you do this really gave me the motivation to get at it. Gave alot of good advice too when it comes cutting out rusted sheet metal. Can't thank you enough
Here is a tip for easy sound deadening removal. Get a bunch of dry ice, pack it on top of the sound deadening. Once it's cold remove the ice and tap it with a hammer and it will shatter and pop right off.
Awesome tips. I'm about to start the restoration of my 1993 Fox Body LX Convertible and I thought it was better to trash it, but you gave me hope. Sorry, but my car is not even close to that truck. I heard people talking Sh!÷ . Now I'm getting my baby back on the road.
It would have been nice if we had people making replacement floor pans for old cars in my country. Thankfully, we don't have road salt due to know snow, except on mountains. Satisfying video to watch, the time flew by.
thanks you for putting this video together. What i like about your approach is, " you work with what you have" and don't use any fancy and expensive tools to get the job done. Well done mate!!
Hello 6th Gear! I especially like that you took the time to talk about the value of one tool over another, like the aviation snips versus the tin snips for cutting the sheet metal. Sharing your knowledge here is very much appreciated. I am a very amateur sheet metal welder, (MIG), myself and seeing you weld your sheet metal without too, too many "blow-throughs" was encouraging. I have a 40 year old Volvo "Brick" to do some rusty floor repair on, and your video has really inspired me to have at it! And like you indicated, after you clean up the welds, use the seam sealer over the etch-primer in order to seal up any pinholes from moisture creeping in from the other side. And by the way, your bloopers at the end are hilarious. It was great to see your sense of humor. Keep up the GREAT work: your videos are so down-to-earth, informative, and entertaining - all rolled into one! Thank you very much!
I don’t feel so bad about the rust in my 1985 Ram 50! Wow what a mission to repair that! PS a sharp counter sinking drill bit is way more efficient than a step drill. Cool project.
Great channel! Keep up the good work. Following along since I’ve got an 82 4WD short bed that’s undergoing a restoration. Learning a lot from your videos. Thank you
70s and 80s car and trucks toyotas are amazing. I have a daihatsu charmant 84 with 3k engine toyota is a super Car. The job with the truck is super,thanks.
@@6thGearGarage So far so good ! A lot of the floor pans these days are not even welded but sealed... I used POR-15 undercarriage spray paint over the sealer for that extra added protection. This video was good reference... I do not own a welding machine so this was the best I could do... th-cam.com/video/YEHmcPjbFXM/w-d-xo.html
You sir have the patience of Job. That alone is worth the time to watch this video. Your fabrication with basic tools is a great example of what can be done without all the conveniences of a full scale shop. Good job all around and your welding is great. As someone who has done a bit of this type of work myself your fabrication and attention to detail on such a rusty repair is very good. 👍🔨
The step drill bit requires a pilot hole. It’s not made to drill its own hole, but to make an existing hole bigger. I think it’s usefully customary to create paper templates before cutting the old out, so you know what you are doing after the old shape is gone.
Nice job!! Kiichiro Toyoda would be proud...Found my in the cab leak on my Ca truck. Spot weld rusted through where the water drains from the cowl under the fender, behind the hood hinge box.....would leak just sitting and filled my floor under the vinyl flooring...glad I found the water, was soaked....
Long video, but I watched it all. Great work! I have a 72 Pinto with rusty floor pans like yours. I was really thinking what I needed to do was impossible but now I'm encouraged to continue on. Thanks for motivating me. I subbed also.
Excellent how-to video! Very Informative and I like how organized it is. Videos on auto metalwork by others commonly have long boring moments as they ramble on or try to figure out what to say or do next. Not yours. I was looking for tips as I prepare to patch the floors in my '81 Trans Am. It has very small amounts of rot not nearly as bad as your truck. Very nice music choices too. Liszt, Rosini, Tchaikovsky were nice to hear. Very soothing as I go out to my garage now and try to patch as well as you. Thanks.
I did these rockers in another video, at the same time as passenger floor, and it was a lot of work. But if you’re only replacing the outer skin then I agree it’s not too bad.
Great work mate, go easy on yourself with those welds mate they are fine for what you are doing here mate and will last infinately longer than all that rust!
Bro you’re super talented!! Great job , I’ve had several of those yotos ranging from a 78-99 can’t kill them , I do like the 2.7 over the 22r but man they’re great trucks
Angle grinder wire wheel is the way to go and you can use phosphoric acid products after it. Muriatic acid is good for cleaning small parts and works fast.
Great video got me inspired. I am going to be doing the same thing to my 85 Chevy. Camaro driver's side floor pan is Pretty bad I was a little afraid to tackle this project myself. But aint not too but to do it rigth also I do have a Lincoln welder 140 mig that i Purchased from home depot so i am ready your video is definitely going to help me out. Great job sir
@6thGearGarage Thanks For the fast reply. I was able to purchase half of the side that I need I just never done this type of work before But I don't want to pay anyone either. Something I want to try to do myself After watching your video I am confident that I can do it. Also i can tell that you have Weld before because you look like this Is not your first rodeo Anyway, I do appreciate the reply Thanks again.
Nicely done, fair amount of work to sort that out. Also if you havent already, id recommend you check out wire wheels for the grinder, used to use them on a drill too but theyre so much faster on a grinder
Anyone that knows how to do patchwork correctly will say that you should never just cut everything out all at once that’s rusted. It should be done in sections using the pieces you cut out as templates for your new pieces. cutting out large sections at once without making patterns for new pieces will make it difficult to replace and patch all the metal in a way that it was originally put together. It’s important to take measurements of the pieces you cut out and make card paper templates of all the pieces you remove so when the time comes to reconstruct everything, you don’t have to do any guesswork as to what size or measurements your patch pieces should be. The more you know 🌈⭐️
I understand what you’re saying, but I don’t know if I could work that way by creating templates when the metal all around it is still rusty. I like to remove all the bad and then come up with a game plan from a fresh start and rebuild it in the reverse order. Then again, I am far from a professional. I’m just a guy in my home garage with simple tools. If I ever had a high dollar project, I’d hire someone.
@@6thGearGarage I understand.. i’m just saying it’s a lot less guesswork. If you make panels based off of what you cut out instead of trying to guess that’s all my friend you’re finished product looks good unfortunately a lot of times when you don’t go off of making patterns off the pieces you cut there is an excess of metal introduced, or a deficiency of metal that’s creating pot canning, which is where the model pops in and out the manufacture had a certain amount of metal in mind that was beaded to prevent this type of thing bottom line your product looks good and it was just a suggestion to make things easier..
Done better Job than most professions do they charge 100's hr to do the same, never finish keep milking the customer till they run out money, very nice work. Better you make the patch panels look the better your work will be when finished.
Nice work. Looking good. I’m working on a 1980 Toyota truck as well. I have to do a similar repair. Can I ask what gauge the metal is you used. Thank you and keep up the good work.
The 2wd Toyotas aren’t worth nearly as much as the 4wd trucks, so I’m not exactly sure what it would be worth. Plus it’s not an original numbers matching truck, so that really makes me wonder what it would be worth. I’m going to keep it around and use it as a shop truck for hauling parts, lumber and 3wheeler. This has been a challenge to restore, but helped me learn what I’m capable of. 🙂
Is it possible the replacement floor panel that was sent to you was meant for the passengers side and upside down? That would cause the welding tab to be up for the weld and the body bolt area would then be sunken down like the factory bolt area?
nice video man ! i did that job on many toyota since i first watch your video on the red yota and i become pretty damn good to fab my metal peices with nothing but hammer and a vice !!.. cant wait to see more about that projet
Great video, very motivating as always. I have a similar patch to do on the 87 4runner in my snow plow video, it’s by the body mount but only about the size of a fist
I wonder about the seam sealer, because each time I dismantled interior parts, rust starts from under the sealer, these are almost the most rusted part of the sheet metal! I noticed similar about under coating, rust developing behind the undercoating. So both do not seem to protect very well against rust. Anything else can be put to better protect against rust? I'm currently doing a floor pan on an old car and maybe wanted to try without a seam sealer and checked its rust progress every year.
For the rust to start, there must have been bare metal exposed. Perhaps it’s starting from the outside of the panel and working it’s way in somehow? You could do finish welding and grind perfectly smooth to make one seamless piece of metal, but that takes a lot of time and skill.
@@6thGearGarage Today, I had a nice looking piece of metal with a seam sealer on the joint of two pieces. I removed it for fun, and the metal behind it was rusted! So it seems to start from the joint covered by the seam sealer. I have another old car, 1994 Honda Accord, the interior was great except on the four corners, it was perforated where there were a lot of seam sealers. I removed the sealer and patched with grey putty that has metal in it, I wanted a stronger putty. So far, no rust came back. Maybe putty seals better than seam sealer...
Was ur cab sagging down any? I have a 97 F250 where the cab mount is detached from the floor and now the door is pinching with the front fender. Curious how would one would know where to lift the cab exactly to install new floor pan pieces to match with cab mount
This cab was not sagging, but I had a similar problem on my 1985. Here is a short video showing the repair. th-cam.com/video/7Xkdnrsa62A/w-d-xo.html I would lift the cab by the other solid mounting points and support it with the door/fender in place until you can see the gaps are correct. Then repair it in that position. You may want to weld some temporary bracing in place to be sure the cab does not shift at all while you're repairing it. If it's sagging that much, it sounds like you have a lot more rot to cut out and replace than I did.
Yeah You'd have to start with a piece of sheet metal and fabricate your own, like I did with the smaller sections of this floor, but you'd be fabricating the entire thing. Large flat sheets of steel tend to flex. I'd use sheet metal 2mm thick so that the floor doesn't flex when you rest your feet on it.
I will certainly clean up all the surface rust i can reach on the chasis before putting a new floor pan on top of it. That's "once in a lifetime" opportunity to have that part exposed.
Excellent, I would have done the same but this frame is too rotted. I have a better one from a parts truck that I restored to put this cab onto: th-cam.com/video/gmFx6OUw7Xo/w-d-xo.html
Since your floor mount was rusted away gow did you find where the original hight and position for the new one you fabricated? Thanks and continued luck on your project.
@@6thGearGarageI would be a little worried about stiffness of the body mount bracket. The original had stiffening darts that your piece didn't. There is a channel called Fitzees Fabrication, he does rust repair with simple tools, check it out. He makes ribs using a hammer and a vise plus stuff he had laying around. Compared to what you started with your repair is good. Thanks for sharing,
@@jimw6991 I have been thinking about that as well. when I pull this cab off of the frame, I'm going to stand it up and take a closer look at that area to see if it can be reinforced.
@6thGearGarage You should be able to add a welded gusset to your bracket on each side of the body mount cushion (doughnut). You want your frame very stiff compared to the body mount to get the isolation out of the system.
Or maybe, cut a piece of scrap plywood, slap it down over the floor ('glue' down with some tar if you want to get fancy), replace the rubber mat, done.
I am surprised you didn*t cut all the good metal from the parts truck to replace all the rusted parts from the blue pick-up, it would cut cost down it has all the shapes & cont9urs of the pick-up.
nice work........but......if it were me i would have wire brushed the rusty chassis beneath the floor and used reformer & sprayed it before welding in the new floor
This frame is no good, too much rust from Ohio. I have another frame from the south that I will be putting under this cab: th-cam.com/video/gmFx6OUw7Xo/w-d-xo.html
I think either method would work. I started with the floor because it was the most rusty and the rocker panel was pretty good. On the passenger side, I did the rocker panel and floor at the same time: th-cam.com/video/JrmNcHkoDYs/w-d-xo.html
I know this is a year old by now, but WOW what a JOB! I can't imagine doing all that work; some people would say it's not worth it but I commend you for tackling it! Very informative and fascinating video. I just recently decided to get into cars so stuff like this is very appreciated! So from one Ohioan to another, thank you!
In my younger days I would have parted this truck out and scrapped the body & frame. I finally decided to take on a true challenge and although it's been a year already, it should be on the road by summer! Thanks for watching!
Makes me question my sanity, got an Opel Kadett which has similar or even bigger wholes on the driver and passanger side with doors rusted from the bottom up 🥲
The classical music is awesome, a very nice touch. Excellent video
I really like your choice of music. I'm trying to motivate myself to do the floor pans on my Ford Super Duty.
Getting started is honestly the hardest part because it seems overwhelming. Once I got to cutting I was motivated to keep going. Then once you get to the cardboard template phase and see it all starting to come together, you're on the home stretch.
Wow man. I thought my truck was a goner but seeing you do this really gave me the motivation to get at it. Gave alot of good advice too when it comes cutting out rusted sheet metal. Can't thank you enough
you took what seemed like an impossible task and nailed it, mate your a legend and an education thanks
Here is a tip for easy sound deadening removal. Get a bunch of dry ice, pack it on top of the sound deadening. Once it's cold remove the ice and tap it with a hammer and it will shatter and pop right off.
Beat me to it!
That's if you can get your hands on dry ice.
(As in buy it)
@@madcat4563 dry ice is dirt cheap and found in most grocery stores
Warning: if anyone tries this method use proper gloves and avoid touching the dry ice. You can get burns on your hands.
@@lupulflamand5673right.. because the rest of the floor repair can be done without gloves?
Awesome tips. I'm about to start the restoration of my 1993 Fox Body LX Convertible and I thought it was better to trash it, but you gave me hope. Sorry, but my car is not even close to that truck. I heard people talking Sh!÷ . Now I'm getting my baby back on the road.
Right on… If I can save this rusty turd, then you’ve got this!
It would have been nice if we had people making replacement floor pans for old cars in my country.
Thankfully, we don't have road salt due to know snow, except on mountains.
Satisfying video to watch, the time flew by.
thanks you for putting this video together. What i like about your approach is, " you work with what you have" and don't use any fancy and expensive tools to get the job done. Well done mate!!
Thank you!
Hello 6th Gear! I especially like that you took the time to talk about the value of one tool over another, like the aviation snips versus the tin snips for cutting the sheet metal. Sharing your knowledge here is very much appreciated. I am a very amateur sheet metal welder, (MIG), myself and seeing you weld your sheet metal without too, too many "blow-throughs" was encouraging. I have a 40 year old Volvo "Brick" to do some rusty floor repair on, and your video has really inspired me to have at it! And like you indicated, after you clean up the welds, use the seam sealer over the etch-primer in order to seal up any pinholes from moisture creeping in from the other side. And by the way, your bloopers at the end are hilarious. It was great to see your sense of humor. Keep up the GREAT work: your videos are so down-to-earth, informative, and entertaining - all rolled into one! Thank you very much!
Thanks for the comment, I really like to hear that these videos are inspiring/helping others!
I don’t feel so bad about the rust in my 1985 Ram 50! Wow what a mission to repair that! PS a sharp counter sinking drill bit is way more efficient than a step drill. Cool project.
I haven't seen a Ram 50 in ~20 years around here. They all rusted away... awesome little trucks!
Great channel! Keep up the good work. Following along since I’ve got an 82 4WD short bed that’s undergoing a restoration. Learning a lot from your videos. Thank you
70s and 80s car and trucks toyotas are amazing.
I have a daihatsu charmant 84 with 3k engine toyota is a super
Car.
The job with the truck is super,thanks.
I did the same thing on my Ford Mustang but didnt ever use welding... I used automotive Floor pan sealer and rivets... Great job !
Thanks! How did that floor pan sealer hold up? That sounds a lot easier than welding.
@@6thGearGarage So far so good ! A lot of the floor pans these days are not even welded but sealed... I used POR-15 undercarriage spray paint over the sealer for that extra added protection. This video was good reference... I do not own a welding machine so this was the best I could do... th-cam.com/video/YEHmcPjbFXM/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the video! I'm starting work on my '84 Ramcharger this weekend, and this video was a big help.
You sir have the patience of Job. That alone is worth the time to watch this video. Your fabrication with basic tools is a great example of what can be done without all the conveniences of a full scale shop. Good job all around and your welding is great. As someone who has done a bit of this type of work myself your fabrication and attention to detail on such a rusty repair is very good. 👍🔨
Thank you very much!
The step drill bit requires a pilot hole. It’s not made to drill its own hole, but to make an existing hole bigger.
I think it’s usefully customary to create paper templates before cutting the old out, so you know what you are doing after the old shape is gone.
good idea, thanks!
As bad as that heap is rusted and you fix all that,you deserve an award, 😂
It's taking a lot longer than expected, but slowly getting There... I like a challenge!
Nice job!! Kiichiro Toyoda would be proud...Found my in the cab leak on my Ca truck. Spot weld rusted through where the water drains from the cowl under the fender, behind the hood hinge box.....would leak just sitting and filled my floor under the vinyl flooring...glad I found the water, was soaked....
A very informative video. Thank you for explaining all the steps and the materials used.
Long video, but I watched it all. Great work! I have a 72 Pinto with rusty floor pans like yours. I was really thinking what I needed to do was impossible but now I'm encouraged to continue on. Thanks for motivating me. I subbed also.
Excellent how-to video! Very Informative and I like how organized it is. Videos on auto metalwork by others commonly have long boring moments as they ramble on or try to figure out what to say or do next. Not yours. I was looking for tips as I prepare to patch the floors in my '81 Trans Am. It has very small amounts of rot not nearly as bad as your truck. Very nice music choices too. Liszt, Rosini, Tchaikovsky were nice to hear. Very soothing as I go out to my garage now and try to patch as well as you. Thanks.
Thank you for the feedback! This really helps me figure out what kind of videos I will be making in the future!
This is great information! Very thorough. Thank you, and the classical music was great! Really enjoyed that part of it.
Back in the day, circa 2005, I used the cover of a computer case to rebuild the floor of my 81 Datsun 720.
Great idea!! Ahhh the good old days when computer cases were still metal.
Owe my god now my rusty rockers seem like a peace of cake !!!
I did these rockers in another video, at the same time as passenger floor, and it was a lot of work. But if you’re only replacing the outer skin then I agree it’s not too bad.
Great work mate, go easy on yourself with those welds mate they are fine for what you are doing here mate and will last infinately longer than all that rust!
Bro you’re super talented!! Great job , I’ve had several of those yotos ranging from a 78-99 can’t kill them , I do like the 2.7 over the 22r but man they’re great trucks
Great job man!
Greetings from Montenegro 🇲🇪
Thank you!
Angle grinder wire wheel is the way to go and you can use phosphoric acid products after it. Muriatic acid is good for cleaning small parts and works fast.
if there's a Will there's a Way... Good Job
Thanks, this one was a challenge!
You definitely have given me more confidence for doing this on my 80 4wd once I get the cab done everything else should be “easier”😅
Yeah floors are a lot of work and not much fun... but I'll be happy to know they're solid.
Great video got me inspired. I am going to be doing the same thing to my 85 Chevy. Camaro driver's side floor pan is Pretty bad I was a little afraid to tackle this project myself. But aint not too but to do it rigth also I do have a Lincoln welder 140 mig that i Purchased from home depot so i am ready your video is definitely going to help me out. Great job sir
The biggest help is if you are able to buy preformed floor pans.
@6thGearGarage Thanks For the fast reply. I was able to purchase half of the side that I need I just never done this type of work before But I don't want to pay anyone either. Something I want to try to do myself After watching your video I am confident that I can do it. Also i can tell that you have Weld before because you look like this Is not your first rodeo Anyway, I do appreciate the reply Thanks again.
@@floridamanfishing1390 yes, make sure to be comfortable with your welder and familiar with the settings through practice on scrap metal first.
Nicely done, fair amount of work to sort that out. Also if you havent already, id recommend you check out wire wheels for the grinder, used to use them on a drill too but theyre so much faster on a grinder
I do have one on my grinder but I used it to clean some greasy stuff in the past so I didn't want to contaminate the clean bare metal edges.
Nothing but grinder attachments for me. A die grinder with a cut off wheel or a cut off air tool helps get in tight spots. Substitute dremel if no air
Anyone that knows how to do patchwork correctly will say that you should never just cut everything out all at once that’s rusted. It should be done in sections using the pieces you cut out as templates for your new pieces. cutting out large sections at once without making patterns for new pieces will make it difficult to replace and patch all the metal in a way that it was originally put together. It’s important to take measurements of the pieces you cut out and make card paper templates of all the pieces you remove so when the time comes to reconstruct everything, you don’t have to do any guesswork as to what size or measurements your patch pieces should be. The more you know 🌈⭐️
I understand what you’re saying, but I don’t know if I could work that way by creating templates when the metal all around it is still rusty. I like to remove all the bad and then come up with a game plan from a fresh start and rebuild it in the reverse order. Then again, I am far from a professional. I’m just a guy in my home garage with simple tools. If I ever had a high dollar project, I’d hire someone.
@@6thGearGarage I understand.. i’m just saying it’s a lot less guesswork. If you make panels based off of what you cut out instead of trying to guess that’s all my friend you’re finished product looks good unfortunately a lot of times when you don’t go off of making patterns off the pieces you cut there is an excess of metal introduced, or a deficiency of metal that’s creating pot canning, which is where the model pops in and out the manufacture had a certain amount of metal in mind that was beaded to prevent this type of thing bottom line your product looks good and it was just a suggestion to make things easier..
@@mrgreezy1 Hopefully after some more experience I'll be able to work that way. Seems like it would save a lot of time.
Done better Job than most professions do they charge 100's hr to do the same, never finish keep milking the customer till they run out money, very nice work. Better you make the patch panels look the better your work will be when finished.
Awesome video. Learned a few more tips on how to do these type of sheet metal repaurs. Thank you so much!
great video. watched it to prepare to do similar work on my M151 military jeep
Nice jeep, love the old M151's
I like your make-shift metal break. Thanks for the tip. Fun video, BTW.
Thanks... Glad you enjoyed it!
Brings you back to the eg days huh lol. I swear I feel like I've grown up with you since the forums days lol
I learned a lot on that car
@@6thGearGarage so did I.
Your work is absolutely incredible
Thanks so much! I'm determined to save this truck from the scrap yard
I noticed this is old but a heat gun and a good scraper will take care of that sound deadening. Good content and keep grinding.
I found 1970s pirate treasure in my old mustang after removing the seats and carpet.. lotto tickets.. lighters.. and whole soft packs of cigs
Cool to see the Jim's pizza box. Haven't had a slice from there since I was a kid
It’s our favorite pizza!
Awesome!! Great job I’m glad I live in South Georgia I don’t have to worry about all that road salt
Nice work. Looking good. I’m working on a 1980 Toyota truck as well. I have to do a similar repair. Can I ask what gauge the metal is you used. Thank you and keep up the good work.
The floor panels were thicker, I’d guess 14 or 16 ga. The smaller pieces I used for the rest were probably 18 ga. Thanks for watching!
28:21 The kitten 🥰 reminded me that I should give a like
He loves to help!
I think it was a job well done. I definitely enjoyed it 👍
Thank you!
Great instructional! Now I feel like I could do this.
Man!! You must love that truck. Even if you finish, what’s it worth? Good luck man be safe.
The 2wd Toyotas aren’t worth nearly as much as the 4wd trucks, so I’m not exactly sure what it would be worth. Plus it’s not an original numbers matching truck, so that really makes me wonder what it would be worth. I’m going to keep it around and use it as a shop truck for hauling parts, lumber and 3wheeler. This has been a challenge to restore, but helped me learn what I’m capable of. 🙂
Nice work! I’ll be doing the same just curious if the type and gage sheet metal you used?
I don’t know the exact thickness, I’d guess 16 gauge? They were old test panels for automotive spray paint.
@@6thGearGarage not 16g maybe 20g
I found a cup wire grinder wheel cuts right through Seam sealer effortlessly right to the metal.
I'll try that next time, thanks!
Is it possible the replacement floor panel that was sent to you was meant for the passengers side and upside down? That would cause the welding tab to be up for the weld and the body bolt area would then be sunken down like the factory bolt area?
No, I ordered both left and right sides. I imagine it was a lot cheaper for them to make them the way that they did.
Лучше использовать резиновый шпатель или кисть(пальцы можно не плохо порезать)
nice video man ! i did that job on many toyota since i first watch your video on the red yota and i become pretty damn good to fab my metal peices with nothing but hammer and a vice !!.. cant wait to see more about that projet
Great video, very motivating as always. I have a similar patch to do on the 87 4runner in my snow plow video, it’s by the body mount but only about the size of a fist
Excelente trabajo... como de fábrica... te felicito. Saludos desde Argentina.
ahh the good old restoration. Just know, when you hear that Rice Krispy's sound after hitting a pot hole.
That's not the suspension
No rice krispy sounds, as I replaced the frame in a later video th-cam.com/video/gmFx6OUw7Xo/w-d-xo.html
Very informative video! Please share with me where I can buy these replacement floorpans?
Thank you in advance
Thanks! There are links in the description.
I wonder about the seam sealer, because each time I dismantled interior parts, rust starts from under the sealer, these are almost the most rusted part of the sheet metal! I noticed similar about under coating, rust developing behind the undercoating. So both do not seem to protect very well against rust. Anything else can be put to better protect against rust? I'm currently doing a floor pan on an old car and maybe wanted to try without a seam sealer and checked its rust progress every year.
For the rust to start, there must have been bare metal exposed. Perhaps it’s starting from the outside of the panel and working it’s way in somehow? You could do finish welding and grind perfectly smooth to make one seamless piece of metal, but that takes a lot of time and skill.
@@6thGearGarage Today, I had a nice looking piece of metal with a seam sealer on the joint of two pieces. I removed it for fun, and the metal behind it was rusted! So it seems to start from the joint covered by the seam sealer. I have another old car, 1994 Honda Accord, the interior was great except on the four corners, it was perforated where there were a lot of seam sealers. I removed the sealer and patched with grey putty that has metal in it, I wanted a stronger putty. So far, no rust came back. Maybe putty seals better than seam sealer...
What size sheet metal did you use ? Thanks for the video! Really good job!!
These floors were probably about 2mm thick. Some of the scrap metal that I used for fabricating the surrounding area was slightly thinner.
Looks great you are a decent welder
Thanks 👍 decent is a compliment to me 😀
Was ur cab sagging down any? I have a 97 F250 where the cab mount is detached from the floor and now the door is pinching with the front fender. Curious how would one would know where to lift the cab exactly to install new floor pan pieces to match with cab mount
This cab was not sagging, but I had a similar problem on my 1985. Here is a short video showing the repair. th-cam.com/video/7Xkdnrsa62A/w-d-xo.html I would lift the cab by the other solid mounting points and support it with the door/fender in place until you can see the gaps are correct. Then repair it in that position. You may want to weld some temporary bracing in place to be sure the cab does not shift at all while you're repairing it. If it's sagging that much, it sounds like you have a lot more rot to cut out and replace than I did.
All is good . But what if there is no floor panel in any autobody shop to buy. I would have to make my own floor panel
Yeah You'd have to start with a piece of sheet metal and fabricate your own, like I did with the smaller sections of this floor, but you'd be fabricating the entire thing. Large flat sheets of steel tend to flex. I'd use sheet metal 2mm thick so that the floor doesn't flex when you rest your feet on it.
@@6thGearGarage2mm? Is this 1/8 inch plate?.
2mm is thinner than 1/8". 1/8" is more suited for a frame repair.
Hello, I am from Iraq. I have worked in repairing these cars for years, Toyota Pickup, model 1980
I will certainly clean up all the surface rust i can reach on the chasis before putting a new floor pan on top of it. That's "once in a lifetime" opportunity to have that part exposed.
Excellent, I would have done the same but this frame is too rotted. I have a better one from a parts truck that I restored to put this cab onto: th-cam.com/video/gmFx6OUw7Xo/w-d-xo.html
That's interesting that you said the welds on the body mount bracket wasn't your best. Weld through primer is a weld contaminant.
Good point! Also, thanks for defending my subpar welds. I'm a decent welder but some days are better than others :)
as a welder the only thing i can say is that you dont need that much gas, you can go to 10 psi or even lower for stuff like that
Good to know, thanks!
Since your floor mount was rusted away gow did you find where the original hight and position for the new one you fabricated? Thanks and continued luck on your project.
I kind of just guessed and set it on top of the body mount bushing to figure out about where it should be.
@@6thGearGarageI would be a little worried about stiffness of the body mount bracket. The original had stiffening darts that your piece didn't. There is a channel called Fitzees Fabrication, he does rust repair with simple tools, check it out. He makes ribs using a hammer and a vise plus stuff he had laying around.
Compared to what you started with your repair is good. Thanks for sharing,
@@jimw6991 I have been thinking about that as well. when I pull this cab off of the frame, I'm going to stand it up and take a closer look at that area to see if it can be reinforced.
@6thGearGarage You should be able to add a welded gusset to your bracket on each side of the body mount cushion (doughnut). You want your frame very stiff compared to the body mount to get the isolation out of the system.
Круто 👍Сейчас восстанавливаю Nissan Terrano wd21 1989😊 полы тоже все сгнили...
Why do floor pans have raised and dipped impressions fabricated into them???? Sorry new to this sort of stuff.
Good question! It adds extra strength to make them more rigid.
At least now the driver dont fall in the road through the rust hole 😂... joke... very well done!
Nice work saving one from the crusher.
Thanks!
Awesome job on the Toyota pick-up
thank you!
That's a beatiful work, really amazing.
Thank you very much!
Whats your opinion on bed lining the floor? Would it help with future rust?
I've seen a lot of people do it, but it cold also trap moisture and cause rust if not completely sealed inside and out.
А что в Европе прививки от столбняка не ставят???
Or maybe, cut a piece of scrap plywood, slap it down over the floor ('glue' down with some tar if you want to get fancy), replace the rubber mat, done.
That would actually work here in Ohio, where there are no vehicle inspections!
Floor pans are cheap all you need is some welding friends.... I have 2 from my last job that welded for a living for 10+ years
You sir have good taste in music.
Great! Does anyone out there know a good source of replacement panel for a 1984 Toyota BJ75 Landcruiser. Floor pans in particular. Thanks!
Not that I know of, I have not seen any available yet.
Is weld through primer actually zinc spray? Because I can't buy that primer anywhere in europe
Yes, it does contain some Zinc, but I'm unsure of the other ingredients that make it different from a Zinc spray or Zinc based primer.
Good....JOB....I'm....impressed....👌🏻😎
Thank you!
Why didn't you use the body mount bracket from the donor vehicle?
It was too rusty.
Were you using a flux core welder?
No, I used solid .023 wire with gas.
Excellent video. Thanks for sharing
Thank you!
Lol looks like the cab of my Ford Ranger!
And I thought only a Toyota could rust this much!
Have done many floors but have never seen aftermarket floor pans just curious where you found them.
There are a few options on eBay. Links are in the description 👍
you are offering amazing content! hats off sir.
Thanks!
Would those floor pans fit the 4x4 83
Yes they would
GOOD TO SEE YOUR STILL THROWING OUT NICE VIDEOS THAT ARE VERY EDUCATIONAL 👊🏻👍🏻💪🏻✌️
Thank you! You've been subscribed since the beginning, when I only had a couple thousand subs. I appreciate that!!!
I am surprised you didn*t cut all the good metal from the parts truck to replace all the rusted parts from the blue pick-up, it would cut cost down it has all the shapes & cont9urs of the pick-up.
I would have but the southern truck's floor was just as bad as the ohio truck's floor.
Thanks ❤ very informative
Glad it was helpful!
Weld primer in between all overlapping seams.... this will start to develop rust in a few days
I spray all cavities with fluid film because it will creep into all tiny spaces and keep an oily film on the metal to prevent rust
nice work........but......if it were me i would have wire brushed the rusty chassis beneath the floor and used reformer & sprayed it before welding in the new floor
I will be pulling this cab off soon to put it on a restored frame. At that point I will take a look at the underside and see if it needs any work.
Should’ve cleaned the chassis when you had a chance
This frame is no good, too much rust from Ohio. I have another frame from the south that I will be putting under this cab: th-cam.com/video/gmFx6OUw7Xo/w-d-xo.html
very good job, well done
Thank you!
The best part about doing this job is finally completing it and THEN having to do the other side 🤣💀
haha you're not joking... The other side was even more work because I replaced the rocker at the same time: th-cam.com/video/JrmNcHkoDYs/w-d-xo.html
I believe rocker panel first then floors??
I think either method would work. I started with the floor because it was the most rusty and the rocker panel was pretty good. On the passenger side, I did the rocker panel and floor at the same time: th-cam.com/video/JrmNcHkoDYs/w-d-xo.html
Looking gd .Just getting started on removing rust myself. good to see u can make the bends needed with vise.
I have to do the same job on my truck.
It's a lot of work but it feels good to have it completed.
Curious what’s the name/model of that craftsman flat bit chisel scraper!?
It's really old, but I found one on amazon for $28: amzn.to/3ngrQMF
or here's a whole set for $23 and they have steel caps on the end: amzn.to/40Ey4nU