Thank you for the compliment. We have heard this from so many how good they are, but thank you for posting. We are now the only USA supplier that has these cells but world wide politics is going to start of shutdown of production and shipping. You can still get them here at solarsupplyhouse.com/product/set-of-four-304ah-eve-lifepo4-prismatic-cells-with-welded-studs/
Thanks for the great video. In your opinion, if I am running an active balancer as well as my daily BMS do I need to top balance my batteries when I get them or can I just let the active balancer do that over a couple of cycles?
If the cells are well matched and one is perhaps a half or a volt off, (a volt would be a lot) you can passively balance them. Put the cells in parallel and let them sit over night. They will balance out. Even if you do a top balance with any cells and then rest them for several hours, they will go slightly out of balance but not significantly.
The video is now outdated. We do not use or recommend DALY anymore. We sell JBD now as the firmware is far superior and they run cool. I have replaced all the DALY customers with JBD. They work so much better and will fit in the box easily. Clamping of the batteries is a choice of the customer. Our experience is that it's not necessary.
Could you explain how you activated the Daly bms please. Also, I read that the bms terminal leads should all be the same length. Do you not think this is necessary?
You activate it by either shorting the B+ and B- together. but you can n also do a short of the terminals on the power display output on the side of the BMS. You just short out the pins. But I put in a momentary switch that does that. The BMS terminal leads can be any length. Within reason. It's low voltage reporting.
It's ABS so you can glue it with common ABS cement. But we do not recommend it to allow access to it for whatever. Kapton tape works well. You can use some small sheet metal screws too. There are alot of ways to do it depending on your needs. On mine, I strap them closed as I often open the lids to check on various thing or do upgrades.
Yes, A reptile aquarium heater could fit and the new BMS we carry has an option with the temp sensor to turn it on at your setting. There are also others that make heating pads that could fit. @@matteobusani
After another set was in service for two years without compression and just in the ABS box, I recently examined them. Still good as new and no swelling or bulging. Capacity was still at over 310 AH. All six packs in my build are fused properly when in use. I use a Victron 6 fuse bank with 300 amp mega fuses. Good observation. Cheers.
Any concern about placing the bluetooth module over the pressure-relief valve? Also, I've read that differing wire lengths on the BMS balance leads results in differing resistance, which compromises how well your cells stay balanced. I'm not sure how critical that is.
It was not a concern at the time. But thank you for bringing that up. I have never seen a pressure relief valve have to work after selling several thousand cells. As for the sense wire leads, one could not even measure the difference in resistance on a couple inches. A finger print has more resistance. But thank you for the question. I am always looking for input. Join our DIY Battery forum diybatteryfourm.com and post your discussion there. It's free. See what others think. Cheers.
@@SolarSupplyHouse So let me make sure I got this straight I'm wanting to put together between 100 to 280 volt batteries. So what I need to do is go out and buy another charger and put them in parallel and charge them up so they're all equal am I correct. What I'm trying to do is put a second battery in my SUV with a DC to DC charger
@@davidlingelbach9887 Proper procedure for cells is to top balance . We use a constant current, constant voltage charger with the cells in parallel to a top charge of 3.64V, then rest the cells for 6-12 hours, measure each cell, then discharge to 2.6V per cell (10.4V in a series pack), measure the individual cell voltages again, and top balance one more time. Document each cell during the process to determine if you have any weak cells or bad cell.
@@SolarSupplyHouse thanks, so we don't need to consider M8 or other ways to weld connection for pack right ? i am thinking to weld it with big size aliminium sheet for making sure a 450 amps pass.
I don't see this a good solution. The cells will expand and press the bms. It's recommended to press them each other. It's also recommended to put some isolation between the cells.
I have had the same cells in the video in the box without anything to compress them for 2 1/2 years and there is no expansion. Please provide your documentation of this, besides what you read on DIY Solar Forum. The cells are at least 1/2" from the BMS on all directions, so it does not press on it. But, I agree on the isolation. A thin layer of something would be nice for fitting them togethe and slight temperature expansion , but I do not see the science of why you believe is necessary. Some input on this would be informative as long as it is not opinion and backed up with facts that viewers can rely on.
@@SolarSupplyHouseBrother the document " Datasheet" says the cells be tight, compressed to each other. As the cells "could" expand and that would void warranty.
@@SolarSupplyHouseas some manufacturers of cells provide 5 years of replacement warranty. So it may not expand in 3 years time but maybe in 4th year. Thanks your assembling was very good and neat😊
Where is the bms or the cost. You can buy a 300 amp amperetime for $1229 complete with 200 amp bms. No cold temp sensor but don't know if your bms had one either. Your bms was 120 amp.
The video is educational for DIY battery builders. They can determine the required BMS based on their loads. Ampertime appears to be a Chinese built battery with no temperature sensor or low temp cutoff and no brand or specifications on the cells or BMS. The installed BMS in the Video had a temperature sensor and low temperature charge cutoff so the battery cannot be damaged. Solar Supply House does not sell BMS at this time due to the many variations a customer may require. One size DOES NOT fit all.
Why do you have the handle ropes tied in knots??? There's a spot for the plastic ends to clip under the lip. You also shouldn't use Loctite on the studs, it acts an an insulator. You're better off taping the cells together before they go in the case. You're also best to torque down all the flange nuts, and then put the sense lugs on top with a nut to lock them down. A half nut works really well for this. There's also no need to hold the studs while you tighten the nuts, a) You used loctite, and b) Tightening the nut will pull the stud up if anything, not push it down. Using shorter M8 bolts on the inside will help with internal thread clearance, there's no need to use 16mm bolts like you did. I'm all for helpful videos, but there are some bad techniques shown in this. Without securing all the cells together, you make the bus bars do all the mechanical work when things move about inside (and they will move because you've used foam. That puts stress on the terminals, which can easily become a failure point. If someone tips the batter upside down, those studs will possibly punch through the case. You should use something solid between the top of the cell and the lid. At least the kit only costs about as much as it's really worth. But get rid of that loctite, it doesn't belong on battery terminals!
likely got all this stuff for free for the video lol ... 120 bucks for a battery box haha .. ill sell you snack size 1pc ziploc bag new for 20 bucks free shipping 🤣
haha thats what i just looked at.. 120 bucks just for a plastic housing and a terminal lug plug lol... i just need a case without the terminal plug since ill be drilling a hole and sealing it , using it for my trolling boat motor ... but yeah 120 bucks for a battery box HAHA
I Bought 8 cells 305ah each from Solar Supply House and they are beautiful. Low IR and charged up evenly. Very happy with Chris and the service.
Thank you for the compliment. We have heard this from so many how good they are, but thank you for posting.
We are now the only USA supplier that has these cells but world wide politics is going to start of shutdown of production and shipping. You can still get them here at solarsupplyhouse.com/product/set-of-four-304ah-eve-lifepo4-prismatic-cells-with-welded-studs/
Serious $$$markup$$$ on that plastic battery box!!!!!
I have to say best how to video I have seen. Hope to see more
I think you should look at more evidence based videos.
Great step by step, btw, they have 304s now!
Yes, I am very aware and so are my customers. We have 300 arriving soon and cannot wait to test them and show the results
For non vehicle use this great
Thanks for the great video. In your opinion, if I am running an active balancer as well as my daily BMS do I need to top balance my batteries when I get them or can I just let the active balancer do that over a couple of cycles?
If the cells are well matched and one is perhaps a half or a volt off, (a volt would be a lot) you can passively balance them. Put the cells in parallel and let them sit over night. They will balance out. Even if you do a top balance with any cells and then rest them for several hours, they will go slightly out of balance but not significantly.
Just noticed you didn't clamp the batteries, why?
Also daly BMS like cooling some have fans, so will the box be detrimental.
The video is now outdated. We do not use or recommend DALY anymore. We sell JBD now as the firmware is far superior and they run cool. I have replaced all the DALY customers with JBD. They work so much better and will fit in the box easily. Clamping of the batteries is a choice of the customer. Our experience is that it's not necessary.
Could you explain how you activated the Daly bms please. Also, I read that the bms terminal leads should all be the same length. Do you not think this is necessary?
You activate it by either shorting the B+ and B- together. but you can n also do a short of the terminals on the power display output on the side of the BMS. You just short out the pins. But I put in a momentary switch that does that. The BMS terminal leads can be any length. Within reason. It's low voltage reporting.
👍👌
Could use a fuse and something to secure the cells together, but otherwise a good build!
All six packs in my build are fused properly when in use. I use a Victron 6 fuse bank with 300 amp mega fuses. Good observation. Cheers.
Hi,
Thank you for the video,
Do you use this batteries ?
And if yes, are they really what they say about amps and power ?
Thank you !
Yes, I use them. They are great and work very well.
How did you fix the cover to the box?
It's ABS so you can glue it with common ABS cement. But we do not recommend it to allow access to it for whatever. Kapton tape works well. You can use some small sheet metal screws too. There are alot of ways to do it depending on your needs. On mine, I strap them closed as I often open the lids to check on various thing or do upgrades.
@@SolarSupplyHouse is there also enough room (space) to install an heating plate?
Yes, A reptile aquarium heater could fit and the new BMS we carry has an option with the temp sensor to turn it on at your setting. There are also others that make heating pads that could fit. @@matteobusani
i was just looking at that and it looks like you can strap it down using the handle holes to
Compressing the cells ? Fusing?
After another set was in service for two years without compression and just in the ABS box, I recently examined them. Still good as new and no swelling or bulging. Capacity was still at over 310 AH. All six packs in my build are fused properly when in use. I use a Victron 6 fuse bank with 300 amp mega fuses. Good observation. Cheers.
Any concern about placing the bluetooth module over the pressure-relief valve? Also, I've read that differing wire lengths on the BMS balance leads results in differing resistance, which compromises how well your cells stay balanced. I'm not sure how critical that is.
It was not a concern at the time. But thank you for bringing that up. I have never seen a pressure relief valve have to work after selling several thousand cells. As for the sense wire leads, one could not even measure the difference in resistance on a couple inches. A finger print has more resistance. But thank you for the question. I am always looking for input. Join our DIY Battery forum diybatteryfourm.com and post your discussion there. It's free. See what others think.
Cheers.
@@offgridcircuits2413 - The spelling of "forum" is wrong, but I have joined and look forward to learning and sharing more about DIY batteries. :)
@@jasonbroom7147 oops, nobody is perfect. I corrected it.
Like your video but I was wondering do you top or bottom balance your batteries or do you have to
Top Balance is best for this application.
@@SolarSupplyHouse So let me make sure I got this straight I'm wanting to put together between 100 to 280 volt batteries. So what I need to do is go out and buy another charger and put them in parallel and charge them up so they're all equal am I correct. What I'm trying to do is put a second battery in my SUV with a DC to DC charger
@@davidlingelbach9887 Proper procedure for cells is to top balance . We use a constant current, constant voltage charger with the cells in parallel to a top charge of 3.64V, then rest the cells for 6-12 hours, measure each cell, then discharge to 2.6V per cell (10.4V in a series pack), measure the individual cell voltages again, and top balance one more time. Document each cell during the process to determine if you have any weak cells or bad cell.
@@SolarSupplyHouse what would you charge me to build a battery if you do that kind of thing
@@davidlingelbach9887 Please take this to our website contact section. solarsupplyhouse.com
so cool
Ive got 48V banks 20 PCS 280Ah & 7 PCS 320Ah
What bms was that, and how did you test it?
It's a DALY 120Amp BMS. It's a smart unit so you can see all the parameters live on your phone.
If M6 Studs can take 450amps for 30sec?
The contacts can. The studs just hold the contacts down to the top of the cell with the flange nut. But it's only a 280AH pack.
@@SolarSupplyHouse thanks, so we don't need to consider M8 or other ways to weld connection for pack right ? i am thinking to weld it with big size aliminium sheet for making sure a 450 amps pass.
I had some notion that Stainless & Aluminum don’t always “play nice” together. Isn’t anti-seize ‘necessary’ … ?
The newer cells with the welded studs are no longer aluminum. It's a steel alloy of some sort against the stainless steel hardware.
Your BMS might overheat in the foam.
Not really. I tested that and it's fine. I use 6 battery packs in this build and most draw from each pack is under 40Amps.
@@SolarSupplyHouse Ahhh ok that makes more sense now !! :)
wow
Price
?
website has all pricinng
I don't see this a good solution.
The cells will expand and press the bms. It's recommended to press them each other.
It's also recommended to put some isolation between the cells.
I have had the same cells in the video in the box without anything to compress them for 2 1/2 years and there is no expansion. Please provide your documentation of this, besides what you read on DIY Solar Forum. The cells are at least 1/2" from the BMS on all directions, so it does not press on it. But, I agree on the isolation. A thin layer of something would be nice for fitting them togethe and slight temperature expansion , but I do not see the science of why you believe is necessary. Some input on this would be informative as long as it is not opinion and backed up with facts that viewers can rely on.
@@SolarSupplyHouseBrother the document " Datasheet" says the cells be tight, compressed to each other. As the cells "could" expand and that would void warranty.
@@SolarSupplyHouseas some manufacturers of cells provide 5 years of replacement warranty. So it may not expand in 3 years time but maybe in 4th year. Thanks your assembling was very good and neat😊
Where is the bms or the cost. You can buy a 300 amp amperetime for $1229 complete with 200 amp bms. No cold temp sensor but don't know if your bms had one either. Your bms was 120 amp.
The video is educational for DIY battery builders. They can determine the required BMS based on their loads. Ampertime appears to be a Chinese built battery with no temperature sensor or low temp cutoff and no brand or specifications on the cells or BMS. The installed BMS in the Video had a temperature sensor and low temperature charge cutoff so the battery cannot be damaged. Solar Supply House does not sell BMS at this time due to the many variations a customer may require. One size DOES NOT fit all.
Naa,don t think so, cells must be compressed,EVE 280 Ah cells to 300 kilos recommended, and I dont want my bms inside a box.
Why do you have the handle ropes tied in knots??? There's a spot for the plastic ends to clip under the lip.
You also shouldn't use Loctite on the studs, it acts an an insulator.
You're better off taping the cells together before they go in the case.
You're also best to torque down all the flange nuts, and then put the sense lugs on top with a nut to lock them down. A half nut works really well for this. There's also no need to hold the studs while you tighten the nuts, a) You used loctite, and b) Tightening the nut will pull the stud up if anything, not push it down.
Using shorter M8 bolts on the inside will help with internal thread clearance, there's no need to use 16mm bolts like you did.
I'm all for helpful videos, but there are some bad techniques shown in this. Without securing all the cells together, you make the bus bars do all the mechanical work when things move about inside (and they will move because you've used foam. That puts stress on the terminals, which can easily become a failure point.
If someone tips the batter upside down, those studs will possibly punch through the case. You should use something solid between the top of the cell and the lid.
At least the kit only costs about as much as it's really worth. But get rid of that loctite, it doesn't belong on battery terminals!
All good points to consider.
Use green loctite
likely got all this stuff for free for the video lol ... 120 bucks for a battery box haha .. ill sell you snack size 1pc ziploc bag new for 20 bucks free shipping 🤣
No, I paid full price for all items. They are worth every penny.
Lol 🤣 that battery box is way over priced
haha thats what i just looked at.. 120 bucks just for a plastic housing and a terminal lug plug lol... i just need a case without the terminal plug since ill be drilling a hole and sealing it , using it for my trolling boat motor ... but yeah 120 bucks for a battery box HAHA