You need to convert the residual rust and bare metal by using phosphoric acid. There's a product called Ospho that's like a green liquid. You just paint it on the residual rust and let it dry overnight.... that converts any residual surface rust to iron phosphate and will Prime any bare metal. Then paint over that.
true..I thought aboutit whilst watching the video, there are many products commonly called rust converters, those may ease the hard work of rust removal
Han, just a couple of comments : Silicone grease is a lot better than WD40 when it comes to lubricating rubber/polyurethane bushings. Also, a rubber mallet is preferable to a metal hammer for pounding metal spacers into the bushing. Cheers, great job BTW.
The front control arm bushings call for dish soap in the service manual. As far as having something lying around in the garage, dielectric compound is what I suggest.
Great Video Han! You are working almost completely with regular manual tools, so forget all haters and trolls saying that you should do this and that this way with this and that tool !
Don't use wd40 to lube poly bushes. A little bit of silicon spray or washing up liquid. And if u put poly bushes in a bucket of hot water it softens them up a little making the ones that are a tight fit easier to get in. If however you are installing new oem rubber bushes, stick them in the freezer overnight, and they will contract by just enough micrometers to allow installation to be easier
brilliant! thank you for sharing this well done job ! now I know more about the powerflex bushing and also about how easy it can be to remove the OEM bushes !! thank you so much!!
Good work. All that rust with a drill, been there. Eventually got a cheap grinder and it makes the job much easier with a wire wheel and cup to switch between.
Nice job! I would have ground off the paint using a cylinder honing tool and also put grease fittings/nipples in all bushing mounting points though (right where the poly bushings split so that you get grease on both sides). Poly bushings get squeaky quite quickly if you don't grease them properly.
When you heat up the sub frame with a torch you change the properties of the metal. It would be better to use a bushing press to mechanically remove the bushings. In addition, it is really not good to breathe the smoke from the burning rubber.
B Souza Sure. You can definitely use a bushing press to remove them. However, I'd rather choose to burn them with a torch every single time and inhale burning smoke. :)
The method I used is a spiral bit in my Dremel tool to cut through the rubber around the central aluminum core until it is loose and can be pushed out, and then use my reciprocating saw (Sawz-all) to cut the outer aluminum ring crossways, and then a chisel and hammer to bend it inwards until it comes out. No heat involved and you don't need a press. Alternatively a hole saw can be used to cut the rubber between the core and outer ring.
Two observations. (1) I really liked your burnout the old crap idea. Appears to work WAYYYYY better than using the Schwaben tool or drilling as I did of the rubber until I could beat out the inner metal bushing and sawzall the rest to fold in like like you did to the one bushing. (2) No lube on any bushing surface as supplied by Powerflex? Seems lots of poly sqweeks will plague you.
Yeah, pricey. I like the Powerflex Yellows for the rear subframe, because they are pretty soft compare to a lot of other brands. They will not last as long. Realize that. Especially the FCABS. I went back to OEM for FCABs.
It might barely move it 10,000ths of an inch. The whole frame flexes under torque. Fine job, use silicone grease and Coppergraf anti-seize on ALL threads. Tighten, they won’t wiggle out. Now I need to collect more parts and do this to my 325. Vanos was easy using YT. Hey! Young guy working on Euro car, GREAT!👍
Powerflex yellows are pretty soft and don't last as long as harder versions. That said, I use Powerflex yellows for my rear subframe. I use AKG Black for my RTABs. I STOPPED using any sort of poly for my FCABS. I am SO much happier with OEM rubber for my FCABS. If I tracked my car more I would go back to PF Yellows for FCAB. The AKG black are too uncomfortable up front for me. Warning, the PF's don't have a huge lifespan as FCABs. But I would use them again if I tracked the car more. Best compromise IMO. Hope this helps. My little 360 motor HP E46 M3 does VERY well at a real race track, like the 3.57 mile SEBRING track. I pass ALL the cars of my era, 2005. I can catch a E92 M3, only if I am a better driver, and even that is difficult sometimes.
You mean bushing press?? As I said in the video, torching them is a lot easier than pressing. Also, polyurethane bushings are known for easy installation without any tools
NEVER NEVER hit a sleeve or bush directly with a steel hammer, use a softer material as a drift such as Aluminium this will avoid any damage to the face of the bush.Or use a nylon mallet.
Awesome work Han! My entire Axle (August 2000 323ci Manual) is out of the car and there is ONE small crack in the chassis underneath where it folds. The crack is very small but I reckon it will get worse so I will reinforce with Turner's plates. However, I'm still torn between Powerflex vs OEM subframe bushes as I love the ride and I want the ride to go softer if anything, not harder. I know you replied in the comments of your other video saying the ride doesn't get any harsher, but that was for your 1999 bimmer. Did you notice any harshness in THIS e46 after the Powerflex?
+shaazy After installing powerflex, the ride I cant say the ride is harsher. It is more responsive and better at handling for sure. I would go with powerflex bushings since they are extremely easier to install as you can see in the video
Nice job dude, going to do my e36 next summer, that is if Trump stays in his box and does not start WWIII with some locker chat about Putins fair lady? Those poly's are real expensive though. very easy to install by the looks of it? Have you any feedback on their use so far? Probably in another vid? OK Dude. Did you use any rust inhibitor prior to oainting? keep up the excellent work, Dude!
Did you get the black race bushing for the diffs rear bushing? I noticed it looks black..l ordered the same bushings as you but l think my rear bushing for the diff is purple.
@@HansGarage l see! How does that one feel for the diff...is there a reason you chose that one over the powerflex street or their race version for the rear diff bushing
Jason Lee each bushings i didnt spend more than 10min. Dont just hold the torch in one place for a while. Rotate and burn only the outer layer in circle and melt the outer circle of the bushing and just hammer them out. I only used one torch and didnt use that much of gas
this guy is halfassing this job. didnt weld any subframe mount plates to the chassis and spray paint is not going to hold up with road conditions. get yourself some 3m
I like an epoxy paint. Surface prep and a GOOD rust converter are more important than the paint. see POR15 products. Best results? Media blasting, and careful masking off, and then powder coating. Go glossy. More durable.
You hear some say otherwise. For me, STAY OEM for the diff bushings. They are firm enough. Any harder tends to be very noticeable with diminishing returns in performance. If you must because of ease of installation, go as soft as possible for the single forward diff bushing.
@@TheRedcroatian Not really. I used to track my M3 plenty. At Sebring too, a real race track. I ran semi slicks. I did GREAT! I put my $$ in to Brembos and racing compound pads. I never, ever felt the need for stiffer diff bushings. I had poly bushings in a lot of places except the tranny and the diff. The right tuned coil overs, a giant anti sway bar up front and other tweaks were plenty to rule on the track and still be VERY streetable.
My boy doing the job in his flip flops respect it haha
When we Asians go to the moon we'll be in a space suit & wearing flip-flops
You need to convert the residual rust and bare metal by using phosphoric acid. There's a product called Ospho that's like a green liquid. You just paint it on the residual rust and let it dry overnight.... that converts any residual surface rust to iron phosphate and will Prime any bare metal. Then paint over that.
true..I thought aboutit whilst watching the video, there are many products commonly called rust converters, those may ease the hard work of rust removal
Han, just a couple of comments :
Silicone grease is a lot better than WD40 when it comes to lubricating rubber/polyurethane bushings.
Also, a rubber mallet is preferable to a metal hammer for pounding metal spacers into the bushing.
Cheers, great job BTW.
Yep use Sil-Glyde
The front control arm bushings call for dish soap in the service manual. As far as having something lying around in the garage, dielectric compound is what I suggest.
Great Video Han!
You are working almost completely with regular manual tools, so forget all haters and trolls saying that you should do this and that this way with this and that tool !
THANK YOU!
This worked great. I just finished with the torch. Like you said. Takes about 15 minutes. Awesome!
Don't use wd40 to lube poly bushes. A little bit of silicon spray or washing up liquid. And if u put poly bushes in a bucket of hot water it softens them up a little making the ones that are a tight fit easier to get in. If however you are installing new oem rubber bushes, stick them in the freezer overnight, and they will contract by just enough micrometers to allow installation to be easier
brilliant! thank you for sharing this well done job ! now I know more about the powerflex bushing and also about how easy it can be to remove the OEM bushes !! thank you so much!!
Good work. All that rust with a drill, been there. Eventually got a cheap grinder and it makes the job much easier with a wire wheel and cup to switch between.
Thanks for sharing this with us. This makes a lot more sense to me. The way to reinstall the bushings.
Hans you the man!!!
great vid ; melting the old bushing
han. it is great seeing all ur work and prayer.
Great job. I always believe that if you want to do it right, DIY !!!
Nice job! I would have ground off the paint using a cylinder honing tool and also put grease fittings/nipples in all bushing mounting points though (right where the poly bushings split so that you get grease on both sides). Poly bushings get squeaky quite quickly if you don't grease them properly.
Getting pretty fancy
I like your steel toe boots ... give a man a hammer and a torch and there is little he can't do, lol
Bet the EPA loves this video🧐
In any case thank you very much for the video. It is very informative and helpful.
B Souza Thank you!
great vids man. hoping to do this soon with my 325i touring.
Nice work... Thanks for the video
When you heat up the sub frame with a torch you change the properties of the metal. It would be better to use a bushing press to mechanically remove the bushings. In addition, it is really not good to breathe the smoke from the burning rubber.
B Souza Sure. You can definitely use a bushing press to remove them. However, I'd rather choose to burn them with a torch every single time and inhale burning smoke. :)
haha what a good reply xD im going to do the same for a painless removal
The method I used is a spiral bit in my Dremel tool to cut through the rubber around the central aluminum core until it is loose and can be pushed out, and then use my reciprocating saw (Sawz-all) to cut the outer aluminum ring crossways, and then a chisel and hammer to bend it inwards until it comes out. No heat involved and you don't need a press. Alternatively a hole saw can be used to cut the rubber between the core and outer ring.
Two observations. (1) I really liked your burnout the old crap idea. Appears to work WAYYYYY better than using the Schwaben tool or drilling as I did of the rubber until I could beat out the inner metal bushing and sawzall the rest to fold in like like you did to the one bushing. (2) No lube on any bushing surface as supplied by Powerflex? Seems lots of poly sqweeks will plague you.
No squeaks at all actually
hi Han,, whats up how are u ,,we will be chilling in Europe when u fly over ocean see and much love to your family bro🙏🏽👍👍👍👍
I will definitely hold you do that!
What's your Instagram
my facebook is rangdar rashid i have only facebook ...my number is 0031686118560 see u bro
No outer metal bushing on the after market. That makes it very easy
Bet bro had over spray on his home now 😂
very informative, thx!
Love how easy the poly is to install. Until I looked at the price xD
Hahahaha its worth it!
Yeah, pricey. I like the Powerflex Yellows for the rear subframe, because they are pretty soft compare to a lot of other brands. They will not last as long. Realize that. Especially the FCABS. I went back to OEM for FCABs.
If I had painted that thing, there would have been an outline of that subframe there forever
Thank you very much,,i have Z4 e85 2.5
And i need that and vanos wash and joint for the motor..... thanks for all
If you want to get those bushings out faster just simply hit them with your purse
Is there a risk of making the subframe metal brittle / weakening it by heating it like this?
Not at all since the temperature of portable torch will never to too hot to disform the structure of the subframe
Thanks a lot. In that case I'm going to have a go at following your process!
It might barely move it 10,000ths of an inch. The whole frame flexes under torque. Fine job, use silicone grease and Coppergraf anti-seize on ALL threads. Tighten, they won’t wiggle out. Now I need to collect more parts and do this to my 325. Vanos was easy using YT. Hey! Young guy working on Euro car, GREAT!👍
You made the 4 structural bushings look so easy how the hell did you do that so easy I haven't been able to get any of those 4 out in over a week
I took mine to a guy with a hydraulic press. $15 per bushing removal. SO worth it!!!
Is there any frame damage? Nah I just hit it with a hammer 100 times last week.
great video. how do you like the powerflex after 2 years?
Anton Shishkov I wish I wouldve gotten gotten AKG bushings instead. Powerflex is a bit softer for my taste
do you drive this car only on street or track also?
Powerflex yellows are pretty soft and don't last as long as harder versions. That said, I use Powerflex yellows for my rear subframe.
I use AKG Black for my RTABs. I STOPPED using any sort of poly for my FCABS. I am SO much happier with OEM rubber for my FCABS.
If I tracked my car more I would go back to PF Yellows for FCAB. The AKG black are too uncomfortable up front for me.
Warning, the PF's don't have a huge lifespan as FCABs. But I would use them again if I tracked the car more. Best compromise IMO.
Hope this helps. My little 360 motor HP E46 M3 does VERY well at a real race track, like the 3.57 mile SEBRING track. I pass ALL the cars of my era, 2005. I can catch a E92 M3, only if I am a better driver, and even that is difficult sometimes.
Can I use the torch if the subframe is still on the car, I do not have the time to drop the subframe?
Oh no, you have to take the subframe out
You also needet a base coat....it will be rust soon
Good work, but I am afraid that you will have the rust back in few years :/
whats up my brother how are u .. long time not spoken how is your family and life brother???🌸💐🌺
I am well my friend. Moving to be back with my family in NJ and about to go ham in my garage again!!
what are you painting with? that shit will rust like crazy in 1 month!
no bearing press?
You mean bushing press?? As I said in the video, torching them is a lot easier than pressing. Also, polyurethane bushings are known for easy installation without any tools
What spray is he using?
What kind of monts are those
NEVER NEVER hit a sleeve or bush directly with a steel hammer, use a softer material as a drift such as Aluminium this will avoid any damage to the face of the bush.Or use a nylon mallet.
+Geddon Me ansome thank you!
how long time did you use to do everything?
About 3 days?? Haha
How much difference do these bushings make for that bad shift knock feeling?
What paint did you use on the rear subframe, to prevent future rust
Awesome work Han! My entire Axle (August 2000 323ci Manual) is out of the car and there is ONE small crack in the chassis underneath where it folds. The crack is very small but I reckon it will get worse so I will reinforce with Turner's plates. However, I'm still torn between Powerflex vs OEM subframe bushes as I love the ride and I want the ride to go softer if anything, not harder. I know you replied in the comments of your other video saying the ride doesn't get any harsher, but that was for your 1999 bimmer. Did you notice any harshness in THIS e46 after the Powerflex?
+shaazy After installing powerflex, the ride I cant say the ride is harsher. It is more responsive and better at handling for sure. I would go with powerflex bushings since they are extremely easier to install as you can see in the video
+Han's Garage Music to my ears. Going with the Powerflexes then!
+shaazy yea man. Plus they come with lifetime warranty!
you are supposed to use copper grease not WD40! wd40 is for 1 thing its a penetration lubricant
Is the black bushing from power flex as well?
He black rear differential mount is from AKG I had a spare for my older car
Nice job dude, going to do my e36 next summer, that is if Trump stays in his box and does not start WWIII with some locker chat about Putins fair lady? Those poly's are real expensive though. very easy to install by the looks of it? Have you any feedback on their use so far? Probably in another vid? OK Dude. Did you use any rust inhibitor prior to oainting? keep up the excellent work, Dude!
Did you get the black race bushing for the diffs rear bushing? I noticed it looks black..l ordered the same bushings as you but l think my rear bushing for the diff is purple.
Akg bushing
@@HansGarage l see! How does that one feel for the diff...is there a reason you chose that one over the powerflex street or their race version for the rear diff bushing
no matter how much i heat up, i cannot get those bushings out. so frikin frustrating
Jason Lee you have to melt the outer part of the rubbers and hammer them out hardddd
if you even remember, how long were torching for each bushing?
I am wondering if I have to get another propane tank
Jason Lee each bushings i didnt spend more than 10min. Dont just hold the torch in one place for a while. Rotate and burn only the outer layer in circle and melt the outer circle of the bushing and just hammer them out. I only used one torch and didnt use that much of gas
I got it out. I was hammering it way too hard.
I had to tone it down and it came out like butter. Thanks Han
Jason Lee glad to hear that man
I give you one year then the Rost come back 😅
Haha then ill paint again!
Yeah there need to be work in the future as well 😆
Dutypie more vids coming soon!
this guy is halfassing this job. didnt weld any subframe mount plates to the chassis and spray paint is not going to hold up with road conditions. get yourself some 3m
What kind of paint did you use? Was it Rustoleum?
I like an epoxy paint. Surface prep and a GOOD rust converter are more important than the paint. see POR15 products.
Best results? Media blasting, and careful masking off, and then powder coating. Go glossy. More durable.
What hardness bushings did you use for differential mount? 80A or 95A? Thanks
You hear some say otherwise. For me, STAY OEM for the diff bushings. They are firm enough. Any harder tends to be very noticeable with diminishing returns in performance.
If you must because of ease of installation, go as soft as possible for the single forward diff bushing.
@@deplorabledave1048 I put OEMs in the end, no need to reinvent the diff unless you're tracking your car
@@TheRedcroatian
Not really. I used to track my M3 plenty. At Sebring too, a real race track. I ran semi slicks. I did GREAT! I put my $$ in to Brembos and racing compound pads.
I never, ever felt the need for stiffer diff bushings.
I had poly bushings in a lot of places except the tranny and the diff.
The right tuned coil overs, a giant anti sway bar up front and other tweaks were plenty to rule on the track and still be VERY streetable.