I personally wouldn't have bought or continue to own my E46 for almost 10 years without amazing videos like this from our community saving what has to be $12K+ over the years. That is one of the best parts about owning, appreciating and DIYing these cars. My car hasn't been in a shop many times (DIY or die!) but when it is for air bag recall, alignment, tire replacement, yearly inspection I always get compliments on how clean and nice it is being 15+ years old now and it always feels good. I'm of the mind, that no one will take the care with and respect your car as much as you so the only way to make sure that everything is done right is to do it yourself. Sure it can be frustrating at times but when you successfully complete a big job and get to reap the rewards knowing that every detail was covered, it's all worth it. The knowledge does transfer pretty well to newer BMWs as well. I bought a 2017 X3 xdrive 35i last year and have already done a couple of jobs on it too. Good thing I have multiple BMWs to drive when 1 is in "the shop" aka my garage on jack stands :D
Yes, many Thanks for your efforts showing us these procedures. My son and I have completed the Front Bushings and parts and finding this video gives us great insight on how to do the Rear Bushings. Powerflex of course. :)
Awesome work! I was worried about you behind the car man, you might place at least the wheels, i don´t trust the jack stands when i´m underneath the car. It was a lot of work, and you put a big effort even recording and editing everything at the end, my respect.
Really respect a person who puts a lot of labour into their cars. Great work man keep it up. Just find it odd that you use an adjustable spanner, wouldn’t it be better to have a set open/ring spanners. Spanner wrench potato potato 🙃
One Fast Dean to prevent the driveshaft from turning when you are unbolting it from the trans. Just put the car in gear while it’s on a lift or completely supported by jack stands
Han, if you take a look at 15:28, it seems that the two purple bushing do not have the same torque specs. The one on the passenger side seems to be tightened more than the other one comparing the convex curvature of the bushings. It seems that the passenger side one got more stretched as you keep tightening it.
Matt Denson yes you are correct. Turns out because of that my drive shaft was rotating a little crooked and caused a bit of vibration so I swapped them out with harder bushing from AKG and resolved the problem! Great observation! I will upload that video soon
Hey Han, did you notice any diff whine with the powerflex subframe and diff bushings? I'm looking at getting the exact same bushings you did (yellow subframe and purple diff) while I'm getting my subframe mounting points reinforced and was wondering if you noticed any diff whine while cruising on the highway. I have a 3500 mile road trip coming up and don't want to listen to the while for 40 hours!
You have had a mistake! You have installed incorrectly the rear differential bushing. Your differential is in wrong and oblique position what can you see from the position of the two purple silents at the front, at 15:56 for example. You can see that the right side is strained. Pay more attention.
Great video, looks pretty easy to do, though I think it isn’t because of just moving 15 year’s rusted-in-the-rain-screws from their original positions... What do you think, how long would it take to do this job in a one-take if you had a second subframe with all new sockets in their handlebars, lying next to the car, being ready to install?
Nice work Han, what about the reinforcing the floor tho while you had everything off?? .... I see that E46s had a problem with cracking... you can buy kits now that weld to the mounting points (weakest part, near the spot welding) thanks for everything so far Simon
So I actually found out my chassis wasn't damaged whatsoever. Previous owner did not drive aggressively at all. I could have bought the plates and weld on to the chassis to make it stronger but I just scraped all the rust off and repainted it! You can check out part one of the video where I did all that.
+Han's Garage thanks bro.. Yeah I saw watched all 3 videos 😎... Thanks again for your help.. I'm in the market for an E46 M3 & think I'll strengthen it anyway just for piece of mind... Is there any negatives to reinforcing the mounts would you say? Cheers bro . Si
A bit late on watching and replying, but now that you have much stiffer bushings, you're putting more stress on the weak points of the subframe mounting areas. I would've welded reinforcement plates and got that done.
@@AbdullaJaafari i am fixing to have to do this as my drivers side rear bushing has pushed through floor panel :( these r notoriously prone for failure eh ? ! i have a 2000 328ci , worst yr & car affected ! uh , should be a total recall , damn BMW !
Great video! I'm right in the middle of redoing everything on the rear suspension of my 2002 325i. I also have the exhaust hanging because there was no to remove it because the bolts were all seized at the manifold and I snapped on. And I don't have the patience to drill out four hardened bolts. They're the original studs so they're pressed in TIGHT. I did by the ridiculously expensive Iconel OE bolts and gaskets. My plan was to get everything swapped and then take it in to a muffler shop and have them do the dirty work. My question is, it looks like it is possible to remove the subframe even with the exhaust still attached at the manifold. Just want to make sure I'm seeing that correctly. I removed the parking brake cables from the hubs so I could check the parking shoes. So they're loose from the rear. I also have the hubs and CVs off. It's just the subframe there. But I want to make sure it's really possible to get the subframe off. Thanks!
Bobby Orlina thank you for your encouraging words. I personally love a bit more stiff driving experience with these polyurethane bushings. No noise and more responsive than the rubber bushings. Def worth the money and time to invest in!
great videos! i just ordered a full set of poly bushings for my e46. i have a 323ci convertible year 2000. apart from the extra support braces is there anything different for removal and installation that you know of compared to the coupe? thx
So I've watched all 3 parts of this, and the teardown is informative, but there has been no reinforcement done here, just paint and bushings. You said on part one in a reply to someone else saying this that you "painted the subframe with epoxy" My question: Do you know the difference between ENAMEL and EPOXY? Follow up question: will you ever do a video where you actually do the reinforcement of the body where it's known to tear on our cars from the subframe?
I honestly don't know the difference haha. I am planning to strip down the car and do whats necessary. My options are getting the subframe reinforcing plates and welding them on or go with the X brace like my last car.
So enamel is paint, epoxy is a bonding agent, that if the right type is purchased, can be structural. You can epoxy the plates in, or weld them. Epoxying the plates is actually the better option because if done right, theres no pocket between the plate and the body for moisture to collect in and promote rust. if you get the plates do the redish motorsport kit. its direct fit and requires no modification of the plates like the turner kit does. I have the turner kit and need to get access to a lift for a weekend to do it. From my research, it appears the best option is to epoxy the plates in and then use the bmw structural foam as well. If you body is already cracking tho, you'll need to get the cracks welded and then put the plates in.
+ahhh i see. Thank you so much for your help! Last time I checked I did not have any cracks and I was very happy about that so we shall see what I want to do in the future l0lwut123
hey Han, i epoxied the plates in my m3 last weekend and am reassembling everything this weekend after i paint the underpan as well. Heres the plates epoxied in i.imgur.com/ZiQZ5o0.jpg
Really detailed great video! Can you notice any difference in driving with the new refreshed sub frame? How long you think it would take someone as they wouldn't be filming!?
+Han's Garage that's rewarding to know. Spent the past few days finding what was wrong with my prop shaft. Turns out it was the cv joint. I will tackle this subframe soon! Hey check out my videos on my page. I have a business that sell plug and play Ipad limo kits for the Bmw e46. Check it out han's
Han's Garage ok. So you had no clunk sound or any reason than just refrese the subframe? My 320i have a clunk sound that most bad when you reverse and a little when you set of in first gear.
Just not sure if its the bushings, when i have the car on a lift and turn the driveshaft with my hand i can make the diff make a clunk sound, like theres to much play between the gears inside, it spreads down the driveshaft to the gearbox. Also heard they have weak driveshafts to the wheels.
+AndersDog94 I've actually done this twice and I've done what you did too playing with the driveshaft and both times I've had it was the rear differential bushing
As I was doing this diy, I was wondering, don't you have to pre load the bushings when you tighten those bolts down? In other words, don't you have to tightened them to spec when the suspensions are loaded with the vehicle's weight with the tires on the ground?
Jason Lee these bushings get compressed when you put the bolts on as long as you torque all the screws evenly. the core part of the bushing stops over torque and keeps all the bushing loads even
I don't quite get what you are saying but I am changing rear ball joints, lower control arm(camber arm) bushings...etc. When you bolt them down when the suspensions are resting in air, wouldn't that cause the bushings to be twisted as the suspensions are compressed on ground?
It would be a best practice to preload rubber bushings before fully tightening. most people don't do it I assume because they don't have pits or the special tools. Imo, these bushings aren't always moving, and there range of motion is not that great. They mainly act as shock/impact absorbers. I think you would be able to "get away" with not having problems, not having preloaded them because of the little movement they do. The main bushing here that does move more than the others is the rear diff carrier bushing. That one is also easier I think the get to preload prior to tightening because of its location if you where running with rubber. Lots of people go with poly just because its easier - they install better, no preloading needed - and just deal with the stiffer ride.
hey hans love the vids but i got a quick question i crashed my 325ci and when i crash it the rear left tire took the impact of the crash on the railing of the highway and i thought i was an alignment problem but it isnt but the tread keep getting wasted more often on the side it was hit what coudl it be?
+Prince of all Saiyans it could be the trailing arm bushings, lower wishbone. I had an incident where i spun around in the snow and the wishbone was completely bent.
Hey, how's that Megan racing camber arm holding up? I've heard Megan racing isn't that great of a brand due to quality/longevity issues, but have gotten better over time as a company. Would appreciate an owner's first-hand opinion if you have the time.
why didnt u weld some reinforcement plates on b4 putting sub frame back in ? -- i am fixing to have to do this as my drivers side rear bushing has pushed through floor panel :( these r notoriously prone for failure eh ? ! i have a 2000 328ci , worst yr & car affected ! uh , should be a total recall , damn BMW !
HAN'S GARAGE got the drive shaft up, had to drop the support bearing or whatever it’s called and pull that down while pushing the rear up lmao. Either way.. it worked. But how abt the e brake cables? How to I remove them from the brakes?
This was when I was young and dumb. Nothing was torqued to spec but just as tight as possible hahaha. New one with updated torque specs coming out this summer
@@HansGarage thank you I’m currently in the middle of this project I’m gonna tighten everything as tight as possible did you run into any problems doing it that way ?
@Chris Tapen if you can I would look up torque specs and do it right and not worry. Some smaller bolts are brittle and may break. But no, I didn't have any issues when I just tighted everything without proper torque
I replaced the center bearing on a 20 00 328i and in order to do it i had to drop the support beam for the carrier subframe and some how it popped up and it's not coming back down so therefore I can't put the support beam back on. how can I get it up high enough to get the beam back on?
Han can you get the subframe of the car by just lowering the exhaust my exhaust is proving hard to separate from the manifold but I can lower it does it provide enough clearance before I start 😊
I personally wouldn't have bought or continue to own my E46 for almost 10 years without amazing videos like this from our community saving what has to be $12K+ over the years. That is one of the best parts about owning, appreciating and DIYing these cars. My car hasn't been in a shop many times (DIY or die!) but when it is for air bag recall, alignment, tire replacement, yearly inspection I always get compliments on how clean and nice it is being 15+ years old now and it always feels good. I'm of the mind, that no one will take the care with and respect your car as much as you so the only way to make sure that everything is done right is to do it yourself. Sure it can be frustrating at times but when you successfully complete a big job and get to reap the rewards knowing that every detail was covered, it's all worth it.
The knowledge does transfer pretty well to newer BMWs as well. I bought a 2017 X3 xdrive 35i last year and have already done a couple of jobs on it too. Good thing I have multiple BMWs to drive when 1 is in "the shop" aka my garage on jack stands :D
You’re really good with the lighting and camera angles, you make it look easy!
Good stuff man. Will be playing these vids under the car with me soon.
Same!
Yes, many Thanks for your efforts showing us these procedures. My son and I have completed the Front Bushings and parts and finding this video gives us great insight on how to do the Rear Bushings. Powerflex of course. :)
GMAN S amazing!!! You are a great father :)
velmi pekné..akurat škoda, že nie su popísane momenty utahovania.ale inak vazne super.podrobne a detailne
Awesome work! I was worried about you behind the car man, you might place at least the wheels, i don´t trust the jack stands when i´m underneath the car.
It was a lot of work, and you put a big effort even recording and editing everything at the end, my respect.
Nice video. I’m ordering another subframe and refurbishing it with new bushes now
Great video, thanks for making it and helping us all!
You da man Hans 👀
Great job 👌, thank you!
Excellent DIY how to. Thank you Sir.
illsuspect thank you!
Really respect a person who puts a lot of labour into their cars. Great work man keep it up. Just find it odd that you use an adjustable spanner, wouldn’t it be better to have a set open/ring spanners. Spanner wrench potato potato 🙃
Appreciate you watching my friend
HAN'S GARAGE Oh by the way, you’re pan gasket tutorial is brilliant!
Thanks bro! God bless you!
Nice job
Thanks again
Great video 👍
Great job 👍🏽
For future reference you can lock the driveshaft with the transmission for when you are bolting it back to the diff =)
Why and how do you do that?
One Fast Dean to prevent the driveshaft from turning when you are unbolting it from the trans. Just put the car in gear while it’s on a lift or completely supported by jack stands
@@zachbooze8553 sweet, thanks!
my god those absorber
Han, if you take a look at 15:28, it seems that the two purple bushing do not have the same torque specs. The one on the passenger side seems to be tightened more than the other one comparing the convex curvature of the bushings. It seems that the passenger side one got more stretched as you keep tightening it.
Matt Denson yes you are correct. Turns out because of that my drive shaft was rotating a little crooked and caused a bit of vibration so I swapped them out with harder bushing from AKG and resolved the problem! Great observation! I will upload that video soon
Hey Han, did you notice any diff whine with the powerflex subframe and diff bushings? I'm looking at getting the exact same bushings you did (yellow subframe and purple diff) while I'm getting my subframe mounting points reinforced and was wondering if you noticed any diff whine while cruising on the highway. I have a 3500 mile road trip coming up and don't want to listen to the while for 40 hours!
Timothy Er No diff whine with any of the bushings. Although, For diff bushings I prefer AKG bushings instead of powerflex. AKGs are more firm.
ls it good and does not cause problems
i no longer have this car but I would recommend going with AKG bushings, street black ones. those are what I currently have and absolute love.
You have had a mistake! You have installed incorrectly the rear differential bushing. Your differential is in wrong and oblique position what can you see from the position of the two purple silents at the front, at 15:56 for example. You can see that the right side is strained. Pay more attention.
Those bushings will be dead really soon
Great video, looks pretty easy to do, though I think it isn’t because of just moving 15 year’s rusted-in-the-rain-screws from their original positions...
What do you think, how long would it take to do this job in a one-take if you had a second subframe with all new sockets in their handlebars, lying next to the car, being ready to install?
Not more than a day. I've done it in a day with my friends took like 4 hours
HAN'S GARAGE 4 hours including disassembling and reassembling everything from the old subframe to the new one?
Nice work Han, what about the reinforcing the floor tho while you had everything off?? .... I see that E46s had a problem with cracking... you can buy kits now that weld to the mounting points (weakest part, near the spot welding) thanks for everything so far
Simon
So I actually found out my chassis wasn't damaged whatsoever. Previous owner did not drive aggressively at all. I could have bought the plates and weld on to the chassis to make it stronger but I just scraped all the rust off and repainted it! You can check out part one of the video where I did all that.
+Han's Garage thanks bro.. Yeah I saw watched all 3 videos 😎... Thanks again for your help.. I'm in the market for an E46 M3 & think I'll strengthen it anyway just for piece of mind... Is there any negatives to reinforcing the mounts would you say? Cheers bro . Si
A bit late on watching and replying, but now that you have much stiffer bushings, you're putting more stress on the weak points of the subframe mounting areas. I would've welded reinforcement plates and got that done.
@@AbdullaJaafari i am fixing to have to do this as my drivers side rear bushing has pushed through floor panel :(
these r notoriously prone for failure eh ? ! i have a 2000 328ci , worst yr & car affected ! uh , should be a total recall , damn BMW !
Kinda half useless work done here
Great video! I'm right in the middle of redoing everything on the rear suspension of my 2002 325i. I also have the exhaust hanging because there was no to remove it because the bolts were all seized at the manifold and I snapped on. And I don't have the patience to drill out four hardened bolts. They're the original studs so they're pressed in TIGHT. I did by the ridiculously expensive Iconel OE bolts and gaskets. My plan was to get everything swapped and then take it in to a muffler shop and have them do the dirty work. My question is, it looks like it is possible to remove the subframe even with the exhaust still attached at the manifold. Just want to make sure I'm seeing that correctly. I removed the parking brake cables from the hubs so I could check the parking shoes. So they're loose from the rear. I also have the hubs and CVs off. It's just the subframe there. But I want to make sure it's really possible to get the subframe off. Thanks!
Yes! Once you get the ebrake cables out and complete apart from the subframe you can take out the subframe without having to remove the exhaust
I appreciate the videos. It has inspired me. Thank you. How are the polyurethane bushings doing? How is the noise, vibration and harshness?
Bobby Orlina thank you for your encouraging words. I personally love a bit more stiff driving experience with these polyurethane bushings. No noise and more responsive than the rubber bushings. Def worth the money and time to invest in!
Did you get anymore noise or harshness with the yellow mounts or do you think there better the original bmw ones
Do you need to pre-load the bushings when installing the arms?
great videos! i just ordered a full set of poly bushings for my e46. i have a 323ci convertible year 2000. apart from the extra support braces is there anything different for removal and installation that you know of compared to the coupe? thx
Hey Han I was wondering if everything will be the same for a 1999 e46 if so this video would be very helpful
yeap! same procedure as the 1999 e46 :)
Is there a video for actual subframe reinforcement with plates or welding?
Awesome!
I don't think you should be heating tempered steel like that now it's vulnerable to cracks
hey man great videos! im gonna be doing this soon, any chance you have the link from where you got all the bushings?
www.ecstuning.com/b-powerflex-parts/performance-polyurethane-bushing-kit/pfbk-e46m3/?gclid=CjwKEAjwmMS-BRCm5dn51JLbp1wSJACc61tFqjOZwnikf3u7lTL3W0TBXcepaOjwqh1G2azooPAHYBoCcKjw_wcB
@@HansGarage will this fit e46 2005 330ci coupe?
@@oinh8493 yeap
@@HansGarage Thanks :)
How many days did it take for this rebuild?
So I've watched all 3 parts of this, and the teardown is informative, but there has been no reinforcement done here, just paint and bushings.
You said on part one in a reply to someone else saying this that you "painted the subframe with epoxy"
My question: Do you know the difference between ENAMEL and EPOXY?
Follow up question: will you ever do a video where you actually do the reinforcement of the body where it's known to tear on our cars from the subframe?
I honestly don't know the difference haha. I am planning to strip down the car and do whats necessary. My options are getting the subframe reinforcing plates and welding them on or go with the X brace like my last car.
So enamel is paint, epoxy is a bonding agent, that if the right type is purchased, can be structural.
You can epoxy the plates in, or weld them. Epoxying the plates is actually the better option because if done right, theres no pocket between the plate and the body for moisture to collect in and promote rust. if you get the plates do the redish motorsport kit. its direct fit and requires no modification of the plates like the turner kit does. I have the turner kit and need to get access to a lift for a weekend to do it. From my research, it appears the best option is to epoxy the plates in and then use the bmw structural foam as well. If you body is already cracking tho, you'll need to get the cracks welded and then put the plates in.
+ahhh i see. Thank you so much for your help! Last time I checked I did not have any cracks and I was very happy about that so we shall see what I want to do in the future l0lwut123
hey Han, i epoxied the plates in my m3 last weekend and am reassembling everything this weekend after i paint the underpan as well. Heres the plates epoxied in i.imgur.com/ZiQZ5o0.jpg
l0lwut123 niceeeee!!!
Really detailed great video! Can you notice any difference in driving with the new refreshed sub frame? How long you think it would take someone as they wouldn't be filming!?
Oh yes. It made a huge difference and made the drive way more responsive accelerating, engine braking, turning.
+Han's Garage that's rewarding to know. Spent the past few days finding what was wrong with my prop shaft. Turns out it was the cv joint. I will tackle this subframe soon! Hey check out my videos on my page. I have a business that sell plug and play Ipad limo kits for the Bmw e46. Check it out han's
+Han's Garage I've done it without filming and took me 3 full days
Can I use those same bushings on a E46 automatic, thank you.
You sure can!
were you listening/watching formula 1 while putting your diff back in?
Zeid h nope its just regular cars passing by but sounds like f1 cars when i speed it up haha
The good F1 car sound pre 2014 ;)
Yes, I hear F1 shifting, exhaust sounds.lol. Prob race on TV.
Why did you change the bushings? And not all the other bushing when you had it apart.
The main focus was the subframe bushings and the other bushings weren't ready to be replaced
Han's Garage ok. So you had no clunk sound or any reason than just refrese the subframe? My 320i have a clunk sound that most bad when you reverse and a little when you set of in first gear.
+AndersDog94 yea so the main reason was the clunking noise. And changing out the rear differential bushing will get rid of that
Just not sure if its the bushings, when i have the car on a lift and turn the driveshaft with my hand i can make the diff make a clunk sound, like theres to much play between the gears inside, it spreads down the driveshaft to the gearbox. Also heard they have weak driveshafts to the wheels.
+AndersDog94 I've actually done this twice and I've done what you did too playing with the driveshaft and both times I've had it was the rear differential bushing
Can't believe their 700 dollars I'm gonna reverse clunk for life
Henry Lj you can get other brand or even solid ones for cheaper. I ordered solid bushings and a reinforcement kit for 450$ usd
hi han! great video! i have a question regarding the front diff bushings: do both washers go in the front? or 1 front 1 rear?
DRIFT ALLIANCE 1 front 1 rear
thank you!
As I was doing this diy, I was wondering, don't you have to pre load the bushings when you tighten those bolts down? In other words, don't you have to tightened them to spec when the suspensions are loaded with the vehicle's weight with the tires on the ground?
Jason Lee these bushings get compressed when you put the bolts on as long as you torque all the screws evenly. the core part of the bushing stops over torque and keeps all the bushing loads even
I don't quite get what you are saying but I am changing rear ball joints, lower control arm(camber arm) bushings...etc. When you bolt them down when the suspensions are resting in air, wouldn't that cause the bushings to be twisted as the suspensions are compressed on ground?
Not with poly. only rubber needs preloading before tightening
I didn't preload poly rtab but all the other rubber bushings that's rubber i.e. upper control arm ball joint, lower control arm bushings...etc
It would be a best practice to preload rubber bushings before fully tightening. most people don't do it I assume because they don't have pits or the special tools.
Imo, these bushings aren't always moving, and there range of motion is not that great. They mainly act as shock/impact absorbers.
I think you would be able to "get away" with not having problems, not having preloaded them because of the little movement they do.
The main bushing here that does move more than the others is the rear diff carrier bushing. That one is also easier I think the get to preload prior to tightening because of its location if you where running with rubber.
Lots of people go with poly just because its easier - they install better, no preloading needed - and just deal with the stiffer ride.
is it strongflex bushings?
hey hans love the vids but i got a quick question i crashed my 325ci and when i crash it the rear left tire took the impact of the crash on the railing of the highway and i thought i was an alignment problem but it isnt but the tread keep getting wasted more often on the side it was hit what coudl it be?
+Prince of all Saiyans it could be the trailing arm bushings, lower wishbone. I had an incident where i spun around in the snow and the wishbone was completely bent.
Hey, how's that Megan racing camber arm holding up? I've heard Megan racing isn't that great of a brand due to quality/longevity issues, but have gotten better over time as a company. Would appreciate an owner's first-hand opinion if you have the time.
Scott McKinstry hmm ive had no issues so far with them and i personally like how easy it is to adjust them if necessary.
Han's Garage Nice, thank you
why didnt u weld some reinforcement plates on b4 putting sub frame back in ? -- i am fixing to have to do this as my drivers side rear bushing has pushed through floor panel :(
these r notoriously prone for failure eh ? ! i have a 2000 328ci , worst yr & car affected ! uh , should be a total recall , damn BMW !
Same problem now but wise versa, how does your drive shaft come on that easy? Mine won’t get in
Oh and while I’m asking, do I need to remove the whole e brake assemble to get the cables out?
Marvelous Yang try cleaning with metal brush?
HAN'S GARAGE got the drive shaft up, had to drop the support bearing or whatever it’s called and pull that down while pushing the rear up lmao. Either way.. it worked. But how abt the e brake cables? How to I remove them from the brakes?
You gotta use pry head to hammer out the end
HAN'S GARAGE oh alright, but I don’t have to dissassemble the whole brake assembly to remove it right? I can just punch out the cable?
Is everything just tightened until snug or is torquing to spec necessary ?
This was when I was young and dumb. Nothing was torqued to spec but just as tight as possible hahaha. New one with updated torque specs coming out this summer
@@HansGarage thank you I’m currently in the middle of this project I’m gonna tighten everything as tight as possible did you run into any problems doing it that way ?
@Chris Tapen if you can I would look up torque specs and do it right and not worry. Some smaller bolts are brittle and may break. But no, I didn't have any issues when I just tighted everything without proper torque
@@HansGarage ok thank you
I replaced the center bearing on a 20 00 328i and in order to do it i had to drop the support beam for the carrier subframe and some how it popped up and it's not coming back down so therefore I can't put the support beam back on. how can I get it up high enough to get the beam back on?
You can jack up your subframe in order for you to pop it back up and install your support beam
Alright im gonna try that and I'll let you know thank you.
+Clayton Steffes yea the reason why it popped down is because of the springs being held on by the support beam and it pushes down the subframe
+Han's Garage be very careful!
Han can you get the subframe of the car by just lowering the exhaust my exhaust is proving hard to separate from the manifold but I can lower it does it provide enough clearance before I start 😊
I would try to get the exhaust off. That would make it a lot easier and faster
HAN'S GARAGE yes but is there enough room to remove it with it just lowered in case I have no luck with the exhaust
@@justinnewton9679 I mean yea, that's how I did it too so it is def doable
HAN'S GARAGE ok cheers top man Han
very shitty job...spray paint after all the work to get it of? plus putting back all the rusted bolts..
I have that same light fixture thanks for the idea.. I see the 3 ton jack but are those 2 ton stands or more?