Diesel Injector Knock-- 601, 602, 603 inches . . .
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ส.ค. 2024
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Thanks Pierre. I'll try it. I recently found an injector leaking between the 2 halves and 2 delivery valves. Injectors are fresh rebuild with monarch nozzles and pop right at 2000.psi
The leaks will cause a miss correct.
Thanks again. Robert
Watching this while working in China. I cannot even drive here! Always enjoy your vids and look forward to stopping by your shop when I return to the USofA. I'll be buying a minty SEC at that point. :)
YESSSSS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
come visit!
I found this video after doing the exact procedure mentioned, and it felt right away that 35nm wasnt enough. Im glad I decided to go over.
glad I could help you!
Thank you! I'll give it a try.
That is a lot of inches 😁
Hello Pierre! I am experiencing a similar issue. I have read a few places that the pins under the delivery valve can come out of alignment when replacing seals. I was meticulous in my procedure when removing the valves but I definitely bumped the pins a little bit getting the crush washer out. Do you imagine this being detrimental? I'm going to tighten delivery valves to 45nm and see if its running more satisfactorily, but I just wanted to ask before i put everything back together.
Thank you SO much for all that you do for Mercedes enthusiasts, especially your diesel knowledge. We couldn't do it without you.
Is this also applicable for the OM615, OM616 and OM617 Diesel engines? I mean that air in the Injection line is causing a knocking noise.
Hey did you ever sort it?
my W123 diesel is having this injection nailing issue and i found this video
02:07 how can air get IN, through the copper washer of the delivery valve at 35nm..
i gather that you have a great experience with those cars,i just don't understand how the air can get in,could it be something else..
My 85 300D had that hammering sound I replaced all the injectors with new Bosch injectors the hammering went away
Hello, just subbed your channel , im about to replace all 5 of the glow plugs on my 82 MB 300 D 149k miles on her, any tips or tricks for this job? Do you recommend pulling the hard lines to do this? Is bleeding the air out afterwards a chore? My car has no glow plug light and sometimes will start hard when cold out.thank you
Tey to do it without removing anything... i did it that way and yes it takes longer but its a less headache... use monark
I ended up removing the fuel lines which was super easy, then it was easy access, reamed out the carbon, installed the new plugs with anti-seize and it starts perfectly now. A 17 mm open end wrench to remove the fuel lines start at the front, number them, a 1/4 inch drive with a short 12 to remove a couple plugs, a long to do 1 or 2 and a 12 mm combo wrench to loosen and tighten a few here and there. Easy job, no priming needed as the car primed itself. 8 mm wrench removes the fuel line spacer tabs.
you did a great job!!