See more installation and performance upgrades on Countersteer : www.jpcycles.com/countersteer?How_to_Install_Harley_Davidson_Sportster_:_Weekend_Wrenching&VPaC6yKbE0o&feature=youtu.be
Great video. If I ever have to change the wife's cams on her 883 I'll be watching this video 3 more times. I'll be taking out a few mods to her V-rod and taking it over and selling my stock V-rod because she wanted so many modification to her V-rod it finally scared her and we bought her a Sportster. I'll remove the lowering kit and change the triple tree from a 4 degree to a 2 degree for better handling at speed. But that's for the winter, there be ridin', fishin' and gardens to be planted for now. Hope you have a great summer. Mike from Maryland
i recently found out that Ultima makes a "High Volume Oil Pump" that will fit my pre-pin oiler... so the answer, for me, is " increase the big end sling " when camming pre-pin oiler sporties. no problems 04 and on, the ones with pin oilers can pretty much handle anything you throw at them. but i would definitely suggest a high volume oil pump when camming 03 and earlier model Sportsters..
I just acquired a ‘98, 1200 and am looking to go with the N4’s or Feuling .515 cam. My question is, do I need to upgrade my ignition module, (if so what would you recommend), and do these particular cams require case modifications for clearance?
hey, i watched this to hopefully diagnose an oil leak coming from my ignition timing cover. from the video, doesn’t look like there is any seal there. is the bushing the seal? am i missing something? any suggestions?
There is a seal there under the cup shaped thing bolted on the end of the camshaft. Replace the seal when you have the cover off. They were going by if it aint broke don't fix it. They didn't have a leak.
I’m thinking about buying a bike from this guy. He took the plate off and the cam gears fell out. Will I have to destroy the rods and buy new ones just to get the 2 cam gears back in?
1994 sporty cam cover has a hole on the bottom of cam cover after you trim it down. Running EMD cosmetic cover over cover. What do you suggest be done w/ that hole on bottom of original cam cover?????
Hey guys this video is awesome! My #4 cam came out with the cam cover and I simply want to put it back so would I only need to take apart the top end enough to get that lifter and pushrod up toput it back in?
@@jpcycles if I rotate the tire to find top dead center while rocker box is still on and that one cam is removed will it affect anything like the vales up top since that cam won't be rotating on the lifter and all the other ones will?
@@brettmckinnon2236 No it won't affect anything on the top end but if the rocker arms are in place there will still be a fair amount of pressure on the pushrod>lifter>cam when you try and remove it.
H-D Installed Pin Oilers, ( "oil sqirters" ) When They Went To The W Cam .... All The Aftermarket Cam Girders Need To Reconsider Their Profiles Ground For Pre-Pin Oiler Sportsters.
Do you have to take the push rods out to take the cam cover off? I gotta replace my cam cover gasket and need to know if I have to take it all apart or just be able to pull the cover and out a new gasket on
What if at TDC your crankshaft marking is not lined up? Mine is 1/4 to the left. What would be the starting point on putting the same cams back in? Would I just line up the markings for 1st and main gear then go backwards to TDC to finish the rest?
I’m doing full rebuild. Question is how do I know I’m on the right rotation. Can’t I set cam marks up but still be off like on over lap vrs compression. Like you spun your engine also. How did you know you set them on the correct rotation because if you spun engine over 360 your pinion line would be in correct spot but couldn’t you be on over lap or on none spark rotation?
I think he knew when the cut rods were at their lowest the valves would be at compression or too dead center (no lift means valves would be closed) I don’t think they showed it but they used a pencil to see that the piston would be at TDC. After that the lining up of the gears (cams) would assure the low end and top end are in time. Just my two cents. Hope I made some sense.
Would this apply to an xl883n ? I heard cranking noise from.the primary cover, or maybe the cam side but I had low oil so I added oil and it winded down a bit but still cranking, tried to get it to harley and the bike lost power and turned off on me... Is this bad? Seized piston? Blown? Or worse complete engine demolished? I'm stressed , the bike can be on neutral and be moved manually if it don't grab any gear is that bad?
@@jpcycles no I'm worried!!! It sound like flooding sound but I checked my sparkplugs and one of them had metal shards on it and one was just brown color.... I sure hope it's a piston or head gasket ... Rather have that than whole engine.... I will do 2 more tests today with in gear and neutrals....if they grab or aren't seized it's another good sign next move inspect cam side cover and primary
Need help! I have a 1996 harleydavidson sportster. I made a mistake and took the cam cover off to paint it without putting it in TDC before removing it. I was rushing and being stupid and when I took it off the cams came out with the cover.. I'm pretty sure they were on the flats.. but none the less it came out pretty easily no force or anything. I am newer to rebuilding harley engines so I am a little stuck of how bad a screwed up I just made/caused. Can I just remove the rocker covers and pull the rods and rollers put the cams back in with the correct markings and then put the rollers and rods back in and find top dead center button cylinder 1 back up and the do the rear the same. The last time I tried to start the bike I hit the start switch a few times and the battery died and since then I've taken it apart... if I but a straw in the spark plug hole of the first cylinder it seems to be all the way at the top I don't have a proper gage thought and the rear cylinder is or seems to be all the way down. So what should I do.. any help would be greatly appreciated. I haven't been able to find a video that shows this problem.. I'm sure someone has done this...
I wish someone would have answered your question because i did exactly the same thing. If i can get 3 cams back in then i can rotate the engine with the back cylinder in top dead center and guess at it 180degrees out then rotate it to check marks when i get back to tdc on the front.
@@shannon9877 With all the cams out rotate until you can put all the cams back in their proper position. If you have everything right you will be ok. Make sure all dots and indicators line up properly.
They did this to show the jobs separate. Some people do the 1200 without the cams. And some do it after the 1200 upgrade. If you notice they use adjustable pushrods. So you don’t have to remove the rocker box to use the Original pushrods. But you could do both jobs at the same time and use original pushrods. It’s pretty common practice to cut the pushrods, but yea I think the main reason was to show both procedures individually so you have options or are on a budget.
See more installation and performance upgrades on Countersteer : www.jpcycles.com/countersteer?How_to_Install_Harley_Davidson_Sportster_:_Weekend_Wrenching&VPaC6yKbE0o&feature=youtu.be
I was totally shocked to see the bolt cutters come out...didn't expect that.
First Harley pushrod video? This is commonplace to avoid pulling the head
I probably will never open my sportster cams cover and never will swap the cams, however I watched this great video to the end.
Thank-you
Awesome video for the average Joe learning to work on these bikes. Very helpful thanks!
Great video. If I ever have to change the wife's cams on her 883 I'll be watching this video 3 more times. I'll be taking out a few mods to her V-rod and taking it over and selling my stock V-rod because she wanted so many modification to her V-rod it finally scared her and we bought her a Sportster. I'll remove the lowering kit and change the triple tree from a 4 degree to a 2 degree for better handling at speed. But that's for the winter, there be ridin', fishin' and gardens to be planted for now. Hope you have a great summer. Mike from Maryland
Lol, that sigh when you drop the ignition cover...I felt it, bro.
Whenever you have an 0-ring always use some kind of grease all around them. Too many times I had some seal fail, only because I didn't.
Always great tips and how to’s from Patrick!!! 👍🏼👍🏼
Really excellent content, guys. Thank you!
i recently found out that Ultima makes a "High Volume Oil Pump" that will fit my pre-pin oiler... so the answer, for me, is " increase the big end sling " when camming pre-pin oiler sporties.
no problems 04 and on, the ones with pin oilers can pretty much handle anything you throw at them.
but i would definitely suggest a high volume oil pump when camming 03 and earlier model Sportsters..
12:08 me every step of the way. But I still love it.
😂 same
Exactly what I needed thanx bro
Thoroughly explained
Excellent
This maybe a dumb question, can you use the stock push rods without removing the top end?
Shouldn't you have checked each cams fit into cam cover bushings and each cams end play after cam cover was tighten down.
You can leave the pulley cover on. Just pull the clip and pin out for your rear brake pedal... Tip and back and you have enough room with mid controls
Installation of cams, did it go up on horsepower🤔, just curious on making my 07 1200 custom ride better
I think the very first step to this job is actually replacing the clutch plates with an extra plate kit lol
wow, amazing instructional!
If you were planning this cam upgrade why didn't you do it while you were doing the 1200 conversion. No cutting of the pushrods.
Normally we would have, but we wanted to make 2 separate videos for folks who may be doing one but not the other.
What if it's just a stock 1998 xl1200s with stock carb and drag pipes, what size jet could I use, Thanks great video
I just acquired a ‘98, 1200 and am looking to go with the N4’s or Feuling .515 cam.
My question is, do I need to upgrade my ignition module, (if so what would you recommend), and do these particular cams require case modifications for clearance?
hey, i watched this to hopefully diagnose an oil leak coming from my ignition timing cover. from the video, doesn’t look like there is any seal there. is the bushing the seal? am i missing something? any suggestions?
There is a seal there under the cup shaped thing bolted on the end of the camshaft. Replace the seal when you have the cover off. They were going by if it aint broke don't fix it. They didn't have a leak.
I’m thinking about buying a bike from this guy. He took the plate off and the cam gears fell out. Will I have to destroy the rods and buy new ones just to get the 2 cam gears back in?
I had a lifter break and it damaged the cam bushing so half of the lifter is stuck in place. How do I remove the bushing? Or am I screwed
1994 sporty cam cover has a hole on the bottom of cam cover after you trim it down. Running EMD cosmetic cover over cover. What do you suggest be done w/ that hole on bottom of original cam cover?????
I have a 1200s ‘99 and looking to upgrade the cams
If you are going to just do Cams I'd recommend the S&S 482's or the Andrews N4.
- Patrick
@@jpcycles thanks for the advice!
Hey guys this video is awesome! My #4 cam came out with the cam cover and I simply want to put it back so would I only need to take apart the top end enough to get that lifter and pushrod up toput it back in?
As in the front rocker box and valves?
Correct, pop off your rocker box and rocker arms and it should take the pressure off of the pushrod and lifter for you to re-install the cam .
@@jpcycles thanks guys! Really helps out!
@@jpcycles if I rotate the tire to find top dead center while rocker box is still on and that one cam is removed will it affect anything like the vales up top since that cam won't be rotating on the lifter and all the other ones will?
@@brettmckinnon2236 No it won't affect anything on the top end but if the rocker arms are in place there will still be a fair amount of pressure on the pushrod>lifter>cam when you try and remove it.
H-D Installed Pin Oilers, ( "oil sqirters" ) When They Went To The W Cam .... All The Aftermarket Cam Girders Need To Reconsider Their Profiles Ground For Pre-Pin Oiler Sportsters.
Do you have to take the push rods out to take the cam cover off? I gotta replace my cam cover gasket and need to know if I have to take it all apart or just be able to pull the cover and out a new gasket on
What causes the outside gear to spin freely on a 93 Fatboy Harley
I mark and turn the bottom 3.25 turns, have I been doing it wrong?
Sooo… @j&p what if i have rough tooth screamin eagles and want to run them in my 09’ 😅 can i run a 99 pinion gear??
What if the number 2 cam doesn’t slide out easy?
Do you not have to take the heads off for this?
Umm cam end play check?
Any one know the part number for the orange retainer behind the ignition control module?
Thank you for sharing , but why cutting the push rod 😂😂.. expensive part in here..🤭🤭
Do I need to remove the lifters at all if I plan to leave the stock ones?
So basically remove the rockerbox and then the cam cover etc.?
yes, they will drop down when you remove old cams.
@@jpcycles will the lifters not just fall out if you take the cams out? Then slide em in before you put the cams in? Where’s the problem with that
The tab is called a keyway
Why not just remove the rocker covers and loosen the rockers? Seems much easier.
The n4 cams work on stock 2004 1200 head
Pros and cons of that?
Nice
You can’t run stock push rods?
You can but you'll have to pull the rocker boxes off to get the pushrods out.
What if at TDC your crankshaft marking is not lined up? Mine is 1/4 to the left. What would be the starting point on putting the same cams back in? Would I just line up the markings for 1st and main gear then go backwards to TDC to finish the rest?
I’m doing full rebuild. Question is how do I know I’m on the right rotation. Can’t I set cam marks up but still be off like on over lap vrs compression. Like you spun your engine also. How did you know you set them on the correct rotation because if you spun engine over 360 your pinion line would be in correct spot but couldn’t you be on over lap or on none spark rotation?
I think he knew when the cut rods were at their lowest the valves would be at compression or too dead center (no lift means valves would be closed) I don’t think they showed it but they used a pencil to see that the piston would be at TDC. After that the lining up of the gears (cams) would assure the low end and top end are in time. Just my two cents. Hope I made some sense.
Would this apply to an xl883n ? I heard cranking noise from.the primary cover, or maybe the cam side but I had low oil so I added oil and it winded down a bit but still cranking, tried to get it to harley and the bike lost power and turned off on me... Is this bad? Seized piston? Blown? Or worse complete engine demolished? I'm stressed , the bike can be on neutral and be moved manually if it don't grab any gear is that bad?
If the bike is low on oil it could have stuck a piston. Will it turn over?
@@jpcycles no I'm worried!!! It sound like flooding sound but I checked my sparkplugs and one of them had metal shards on it and one was just brown color.... I sure hope it's a piston or head gasket ... Rather have that than whole engine.... I will do 2 more tests today with in gear and neutrals....if they grab or aren't seized it's another good sign next move inspect cam side cover and primary
Need help! I have a 1996 harleydavidson sportster. I made a mistake and took the cam cover off to paint it without putting it in TDC before removing it. I was rushing and being stupid and when I took it off the cams came out with the cover.. I'm pretty sure they were on the flats.. but none the less it came out pretty easily no force or anything. I am newer to rebuilding harley engines so I am a little stuck of how bad a screwed up I just made/caused. Can I just remove the rocker covers and pull the rods and rollers put the cams back in with the correct markings and then put the rollers and rods back in and find top dead center button cylinder 1 back up and the do the rear the same. The last time I tried to start the bike I hit the start switch a few times and the battery died and since then I've taken it apart... if I but a straw in the spark plug hole of the first cylinder it seems to be all the way at the top I don't have a proper gage thought and the rear cylinder is or seems to be all the way down. So what should I do.. any help would be greatly appreciated. I haven't been able to find a video that shows this problem.. I'm sure someone has done this...
I wish someone would have answered your question because i did exactly the same thing. If i can get 3 cams back in then i can rotate the engine with the back cylinder in top dead center and guess at it 180degrees out then rotate it to check marks when i get back to tdc on the front.
@@shannon9877 With all the cams out rotate until you can put all the cams back in their proper position. If you have everything right you will be ok. Make sure all dots and indicators line up properly.
Top 👍👍👍👍👍👍❤
should have cut the rest of the bike up. with the bolt cutters
Younguys need toncall china and get some bigfer bolt cutters
Why the fuck are you cutting the pushrods? Did I miss something, is this a joke?
You’ll have to take the heads off anyway, is this just lazy?
They did this to show the jobs separate. Some people do the 1200 without the cams.
And some do it after the 1200 upgrade.
If you notice they use adjustable pushrods. So you don’t have to remove the rocker box to use the Original pushrods. But you could do both jobs at the same time and use original pushrods. It’s pretty common practice to cut the pushrods, but yea I think the main reason was to show both procedures individually so you have options or are on a budget.
Mine has cam thrust washer. Does it go first and then the gears over it?
Would you need a pushrod base adapter for 2004+?