Installed ceramic coated headers on my 92 f150 only to have them rust through in 2 years. Pulled them off chipped the ceramic off and welded up 2 more times which lasted another year. They sounded great, just don't expect them to last very long. Great video of how to install !
This video was extremely helpful. However, I can proudly say that I did this job with JBA titanium ceramic headers WITHOUT taking apart the motor mounts, or lifting the engine………..this doesn’t mean I’m smarter, just the opposite! I had plenty of time. All I can say is you need many many many different types of ratchet extensions, sizes, wobble joints, LIGHTING, and time.
I did the JBA stainless headers on my 04-08 5.4 3v with a Whipple. Great headers, never leaked or rusted out in New England for the 7 years I kept the truck after I was done. I do recommend stainless steel studs and bolts and factory ford gaskets with a coat of copper spray on them. Looking to try this on my current 17 F150 5.0 and this video really helps… Have you had any issues since the install? Any engine codes from the 02’s? Any melted wiring? I’m thinking same as you JBA shortys, may go with ceramic coated, and probably going to repipe the whole exhaust later. Do you have an engine tune or tuner?
Great work and vid. Im def planning to put headers on mine as well, the alum heads and cast iron manifolds is bad idea, they break studs and manifolds warp , same issue on the GM and older trucks too. At least the headers with good stage 8 locking bolts wont snap studs or warp like cast iron. Sounds great too
I would give them a 3 out of 5 came with the rong header bolts and a few flaws on the header flange on the diver side . But I am happy with the smooth power gains in the bottom end . I would recommend them but take a good look at them before you start your install. I am going to do a video soon on the upgrades I have done and what I think . Thanks for your question and complement 🍻
Thanks for the video. I’m swapping a 3rd Gen Coyote into a 50 Ford car and I needed a visual of where the F150 headers route, because the Mustang ones ain’t working for me.
They are JBA shorties no issues yet I tried to make sure I pull wires away and heat tape anything close . I did Used oem gaskets . Thanks for watching 👍
Do you know if a 2014 4x4 f150 has performance header clearance issues, as opposed to the 2wd’s that do not have a transfer case and front axle? Thanks
@@dsprojects8580 My mechanic said he strongly advises against goin with these and instead go with long tube headers. He thinks these are a waste of money and only sound cool. Would you agree with him or would you buy these again if you had to do it over? I noticed you said it made it quieter but he was thinking it would make it louder and sound better than manifolds.
@@briancraft777 they feel way smoother in the power curve. Install shortly all day but I would do high flow cat/y pipe with them . Shortly headers are little more torque from what I have read and that’s what I wanted . Long tube make power and totally different sound they sound good . Some of the longtime kits with the y pipe I kinda wish I would have bought instead for sure . And I don’t have any leaks yet and they do have a bit of a tick sound out side but in the cab nothing and they did get ride of some of the drone noise. Hope that helps you out in your choice. That is for the viewing
So I tried installing my headers this weekend and couldn't even get the manifolds off because they were so tight especially on the front ones. How did you get them off without using a cheater bar. All I could use was my fingers as leverage on the front bolts. I packed it up after that. Any advice?
I would have to watch the video again to refresh my memory. I hade a few reaches that I used as well it was a vary slow job . Lots of flipping renches need for end couple same size different brands . And small movements maybe try some WD on them or something like that .
So I started the job when the truck was still warm from the engine heat not hot but warm that helped with the tight bolts . Then for that one front bolt I had a long thine handle Mac rench and it was just a slow slow job at that point . I carfuly moved the manifold then put the rench on and moved them at the same time to try and get as much movement as possible. You may have to find a rench that fit a light taps on it to break the bolt free be carful not to hard you don’t wanna break the bolt .
I do t remember you mentioning anything about the gaskets that come with it. Did you use the fiber mesh ones in the box or would you recommend going with a multilayer steel gasket? A mechanic told me the factory uses the fiber with mesh but a steel may last longer.
Smother power from 1000rpm up to 3000 rpm so yes in the bottom end . And it seem to take some of the dron away I was getting from my mbrp exhaust has a little different tone.
@@dsprojects8580 Dont worry ill pay shipping . Im not sure yet if Im going to even buy this truck if it costs to much to get it to pass smog . Thank you also for your reply .
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Awesome video, the only video on TH-cam that actually walks through install of shorty headers on a 5.0 coyote f150. Thanks for posting
Thanks for the view 😀👍
Finally a video installing short tube headers, I don't know to try this out or pay $450 to install 😅
It’s not a easy job .
Stuck on taking out the manifold im prying it back but still a bitch
Yes it is . It was a weekend job keep us all posted. Thanks for the update
How did it go ?
Installed ceramic coated headers on my 92 f150 only to have them rust through in 2 years. Pulled them off chipped the ceramic off and welded up 2 more times which lasted another year. They sounded great, just don't expect them to last very long. Great video of how to install !
Oh no lol longtubes when that time comes . Thanks for the view and the info Jeff
304 stainless can’t go wrong. Aluminized will fall apart
Thanks for the view I appreciate it 👍
I appreciate the information! Looking into buying some for my 5.0 , very informative video , thank you!
No problem thanks for watching
I think it’s fun work. Beats pencil pushing.
👍
This video was extremely helpful. However, I can proudly say that I did this job with JBA titanium ceramic headers WITHOUT taking apart the motor mounts, or lifting the engine………..this doesn’t mean I’m smarter, just the opposite! I had plenty of time. All I can say is you need many many many different types of ratchet extensions, sizes, wobble joints, LIGHTING, and time.
👍 same no motor mounts removed
Great job brother, great job!!! Feels good afterwards to know you installed them by yourself, right?! Props!
Thanks James I appreciate that and your view 👍👍
love your stuff man
Thank you
I did the JBA stainless headers on my 04-08 5.4 3v with a Whipple. Great headers, never leaked or rusted out in New England for the 7 years I kept the truck after I was done.
I do recommend stainless steel studs and bolts and factory ford gaskets with a coat of copper spray on them.
Looking to try this on my current 17 F150 5.0 and this video really helps…
Have you had any issues since the install?
Any engine codes from the 02’s?
Any melted wiring?
I’m thinking same as you JBA shortys, may go with ceramic coated, and probably going to repipe the whole exhaust later.
Do you have an engine tune or tuner?
No nothing yet
Will installing mine pretty soon glad there is a way without removing a lot stuff
Awesome Richi thanks for the view
“Am going to fight that bitch in there” lol that made my day
Haha thanks
I have always found creative ways to unbolt the motor mount and raise the engine for more clearance.
👍👍
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Nice information and work. Why do you need headers installed in your truck? Would the headers heat up plugs and wires with muffler attached?
Add a little more torque from what I read .
Everything puts off heat you just want to make sure nothing touches little different mount that’s all
Good install, sounds real good
Thanks man
Great work and vid. Im def planning to put headers on mine as well, the alum heads and cast iron manifolds is bad idea, they break studs and manifolds warp , same issue on the GM and older trucks too. At least the headers with good stage 8 locking bolts wont snap studs or warp like cast iron. Sounds great too
Hey thanks man 👍👌😁 and thanks for the viewing
Nice truck ! , do you recommend these headers? I have 2016 f150 5.0
I would give them a 3 out of 5 came with the rong header bolts and a few flaws on the header flange on the diver side . But I am happy with the smooth power gains in the bottom end . I would recommend them but take a good look at them before you start your install. I am going to do a video soon on the upgrades I have done and what I think . Thanks for your question and complement 🍻
Did u use the stock pip running to the headers jw if u had to get any special tubing for that
No I never just every wrench I hade in my toolbox lol
Thanks for the video. I’m swapping a 3rd Gen Coyote into a 50 Ford car and I needed a visual of where the F150 headers route, because the Mustang ones ain’t working for me.
Awesome glad I could be a help
Those are the AFE shorties correct? Any heat issues since you've had them in for a while? Thanks for sharing this!
They are JBA shorties no issues yet I tried to make sure I pull wires away and heat tape anything close . I did Used oem gaskets . Thanks for watching 👍
Do you know if a 2014 4x4 f150 has performance header clearance issues, as opposed to the 2wd’s that do not have a transfer case and front axle?
Thanks
Hey thanks for watching I am really not sure
@@dsprojects8580 okay thank you
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Did you use any thread lock for the bolts? Do you get the bolts as tight as possible? I know you can't get a torque wrench in there
Yes and yes 👍
@@dsprojects8580 My mechanic said he strongly advises against goin with these and instead go with long tube headers. He thinks these are a waste of money and only sound cool. Would you agree with him or would you buy these again if you had to do it over? I noticed you said it made it quieter but he was thinking it would make it louder and sound better than manifolds.
@@briancraft777 they feel way smoother in the power curve. Install shortly all day but I would do high flow cat/y pipe with them . Shortly headers are little more torque from what I have read and that’s what I wanted . Long tube make power and totally different sound they sound good . Some of the longtime kits with the y pipe I kinda wish I would have bought instead for sure . And I don’t have any leaks yet and they do have a bit of a tick sound out side but in the cab nothing and they did get ride of some of the drone noise. Hope that helps you out in your choice. That is for the viewing
Have you noticed any exhaust leaks with these jba headers? I know some headers can be ticky sounding over manifolds
I leaks maybe a little ticky nice power curve
wonder if these shorty's will fit a 2021 5.0
Good question
So I tried installing my headers this weekend and couldn't even get the manifolds off because they were so tight especially on the front ones. How did you get them off without using a cheater bar. All I could use was my fingers as leverage on the front bolts. I packed it up after that. Any advice?
I would have to watch the video again to refresh my memory. I hade a few reaches that I used as well it was a vary slow job . Lots of flipping renches need for end couple same size different brands . And small movements maybe try some WD on them or something like that .
So I started the job when the truck was still warm from the engine heat not hot but warm that helped with the tight bolts . Then for that one front bolt I had a long thine handle Mac rench and it was just a slow slow job at that point . I carfuly moved the manifold then put the rench on and moved them at the same time to try and get as much movement as possible. You may have to find a rench that fit a light taps on it to break the bolt free be carful not to hard you don’t wanna break the bolt .
I do t remember you mentioning anything about the gaskets that come with it. Did you use the fiber mesh ones in the box or would you recommend going with a multilayer steel gasket? A mechanic told me the factory uses the fiber with mesh but a steel may last longer.
@@briancraft777 I reused the factory gaskets my self they were in good shape
@@briancraft777 so yes I would recommend the steel gaskets they do last way longer .
Took me 3 days to do my mustang
Yeah not a easy job
Yeah it’s not a easy job
What size socket to remove the header studs?
15mm for stock studs I think if I could have got header studs would have been 10mm
I also used a 8mm
Feel any difference?
Smother power from 1000rpm up to 3000 rpm so yes in the bottom end . And it seem to take some of the dron away I was getting from my mbrp exhaust has a little different tone.
Would you be interested in selling the stock manifolds and exhaust , Im in california and I cant pass smog with headers . Thanks .
I have the manifolds no exhaust. Not sure how much the shipping would be
@@dsprojects8580 Dont worry ill pay shipping . Im not sure yet if Im going to even buy this truck if it costs to much to get it to pass smog . Thank you also for your reply .
@@whip-its_dad4239first mistake is living in that state, but my tip is to hand the guy a couple blue hundreds on the low and you’ll pass smog
@@carlife_710 Ha , will you come visit me in Pelican Bay ? And California does suck ! but its home .
You should add spd catted ypipe
Yeah I want to one of the things on the list 👍
@@dsprojects8580 the power difference on my 2019 2.7 eco boost is crazy and once you add a tune. That 5.0 will be a monster
Good to know about the catted pipe I new it would help . I will be doing the ypipe thanks for the info
Does your MBRP have the Resinator Delete?
No it has a resonator .
this is one of them loose your mind jobs
Lol
What was the torque?
I am not to sure never got it dyno