ไม่สามารถเล่นวิดีโอนี้
ขออภัยในความไม่สะดวก
THIS Is What Can Happen If You Use a Drill Press as a Router
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ก.พ. 2022
- Ever wonder if a drill press can be used as a router, in a pinch? Same here. Today we're finding out what might happen if you try use a router bit in a drill press.
TOOLS SPECIFICALLY USED IN THIS VIDEO:
FastCap Zero-Clearance Tape - amzn.to/3HrU9gp
The Best Double-Sided Tape for Woodworking - lddy.no/m666
YOU CAN SAVE 10% ON STARBOND CA GLUES AND ACCELERATOR!
Use the code “INSPIRE10” at checkout! www.starbond.com
Looking for DISCOUNTED HIGH-QUALITY PEC COMBINATION SQUARES, DOUBLE SIDED TAPE and overall great savings ALL THE TIME? Shop where I shop! lddy.no/go67
SAVE 10% ON OLIGHT FLASHLIGHTS, TACTICAL LIGHTS AND HEADLAMPS!
Use the code "INSPIRE10" at checkout! www.olightstore.com/?streamer...
BANGGOOD WOODWORKING TOOLS: www.banggood.com/marketing-Wo...
MY HAND TOOLS, POWER TOOLS, CAMERA GEAR AND MORE:
www.amazon.com/shop/inspirewo...
VISIT THE INSPIRE WOODCRAFT SHOP: inspirewoodcraft.com/product-...
Adjustable Box Joint Jig Plan: inspirewoodcraft.com/product/...
Multipurpose Shooting Board Plan: inspirewoodcraft.com/product/...
All Purpose Tapering Jig Plan: inspirewoodcraft.com/product/...
EMAIL: inspirewoodcraft@gmail.com
WEBSITE: www.inspirewoodcraft.com
PATREON: / inspirewoodcraft
INSTAGRAM: / inspirewoodcraft
If you appreciate this content and would like to help give back FREE OF CHARGE, simply give this video a “thumbs up”, leave a positive comment, subscribe to Inspire Woodcraft’s TH-cam channel and SHARE THIS VIDEO with someone who you think would enjoy it. Some of the links that we’ve provided above are affiliate links. That means that when you make purchases through those links, we earn a small commission of the sale at no additional cost to you. While we do use affiliate links where we can, we only endorse products or services that we believe in. That commission is a big part of our income, which also goes back into making more videos, so by using the links you help support what we do and for that we are very grateful.
For setting the height to remove, you could have set the quill stop to the current height of the insert then put an extra piece of the plastic underneath to raise it by exactly the thickness required with no eyeball work
This video just came up in my YT feed, just 2 hours after I had damaged (not fully ruined) a workpiece by using an end mill in my Mini Mill mounted in a Jakobs chuck instead of correctly holding it in a collet chuck. Even mounted firmly in the Jakobs chuck after some passes side milling (lateral forces!) the end mil became loose and damaged the recess I was milling as well as part of a machine vise jaw! Lesson learnt: Jakobs chucks are not designed for lateral forces!
Now here is a real work horse! It can be used as a drill press th-cam.com/users/postUgkxajoEbapTfqWaadnqb04h6U576yxXp-FE for fine work; use a jig, set it in the horizontal position and cut-off steel wire (or pipe if you need to) at precise measurements. I used it on my Radio Control Boat building to shorten the motor drive shaft (stainless steel) by 1 5/8" then soften the cut edge.While jigs are necessary for a lot of work and the workstation must be fastened down for safety, the right jig and your imagination are the only limits I can think of. I'm going to try some routing by building a base with a 90 degree fence and router bit slot and make some fancy cuts using the Dremel router bits (just watch direction of feed, just like a big router)!
Good cautionary advice you gave! A few years back, I had the chuck fall out (B16 taper) when attempting a similar stunt with my drill press. Only a minor scratch on a finger, but the work was completely ruined. It's amazing how easily chucks fall off with lateral force, when they are so hard to come out when you want them to.
Jose, I had the same thing happen while trying to cut a groove for a fence gate latch. Using the wrong tool for a job is never a good option. Lesson learned.
@@christopherpavlicas Yep. Seems we only learn the hard way - I knew it was wrong and why it was wrong, but I still had to try it 🙂
I did not know that they could fall off that way. It's good to know. When I put the chuck on my drill press I sort of figured it would be impossible to ever get off again.
The chuck / morse taper isn't the only thing that isn't designed for lateral movement. Depending on the type of bearings on the spindle, those might be exposed to unintended stress, wearing them out prematurely.
actually it is a Jacobs taper that the chuck has, a Morse taper is much longer and would possibly be the taper going into the spindle, depending on the drill press.
@@ypaulbrown
Neither a Morse Taper or a Jacobs Taper is meant for lateral forces. On milling machines that use Morse Taper collets the collets are held in with a draw bar through the spindle. Also the bearings in a drill press are designed to take an axial load. Not a radial one.
@@mpetersen6 I know, I only stated what the tapers were, please read my comment below this one. Paul
the bearings will be just fine, they hold 10k hrs with correct load and 9k with incorrect, neither of wich a home owned machine will ever see and even if, those bearings are dirt cheap to repace.
He was face cutting, taking thickness off the plate; so the lateral force is very little in this example; comparable to drilling. But for side cutting, yeah, probably not the best depending on your brand of drill press.
I was going to try this myself a few years ago. I had the drill press set at high speed and had the bit in the chuck. But, I "chickened out". Visions of flying, razor sharp, carbide-tipped router bit fragments freaked me out. Haha. I still use your jig-less spline miter technique for picture frames. I use my table saw tenoning jig to hold everything in position. Works everytime. Thanks.
Yep….improvised claymore mine.
38 yrs of woodworking and never worried about router bits shattering.
Good video. I have not thought about the chuck coming loose. Glad you had that insight from sanding before attempting this experiment.
Another reason not to use the drill press is the amount of exposure of the router bit. One could make a guard for it, but again, if the chuck comes loose, the guard will do little help.
Exactly the right way to get chewed up with a high speed router bit, Jamie. I'm glad that you didn't have a problem. But the taper inside that Jacobs chuck won't take much side loading like that to show you just how much meat it could take off of you...
.
Nice work, Jamie.
Stay with the "Right Tool" for the job and always be safe! thanks
Should’ve began with “Hey Y’all watch this”. 😀
Straight cut router bits, worked great in a drill press for me in the past. My application was to mill out a round spring pocket in aluminum, I used a drill press vise, and cut was just vertical. I've also used V cut router bits as 90 degree countersinks in aluminum. This worked better than a few countersink bits I've used.
I’m a firm believer in the right tool for the right job. Glad you didn’t get hurt but I was nervous the entire 5pm you were doing that.
Back in the early 80's I had a very small shop space and I ended up buying a Shopsmith. One of the basic functions was a drill press. One of the accessories was an adapter for 1/2" shank router bits. You took off the drill chuck and replaced it with the adapter and bit. The mechanical operation of the Shopsmith appeared to be the same as a regular drill press but I had it apart and my memory is that my regular drill press was far more robust than the Shopsmith so I believe that, as you found, the drill press did fine. Chuck retention might be another issue. Funny enough the Shopsmith has been gone for almost 30 years but sitting in my router bit case is that very same adapter and the bits; unused since then. Have to pull them out and give them a try. Thanks for some very good videos!
As a Shopsmith owner. this is one area it really excels. The bearings can take axial and radial loads, unlike a drill press. As can the chuck mounting. And it has router chucks to hold the bit, which unlike a Jacob's chuck have no problem with side load.
My question is, is it possible to use a router as a drill press?
I'm new to woodworking, and i need to do some prototypes for which I'll need a router, but i also need to punch a couple of straight holes in it, and i wonder if i can save some money and space using the router as a drill.
@@giacomoneri1782 How will you center it over the exact place you want to drill?
Having done this before *ahem* professionally....... A couple notes.
1 moving the table up instead of the quill down frees your other hand for holding the work and increases stability of the tool head.
2 helical cutters reduce cutting load, and thus vibration and unintentional damage, but upcutting works against the Morse taper, so down cutting with good chip extraction, no slots
3 fully supported cuts only, no coping.
4 if you plan to do it more than a little, which I don't recommend, reducing the vibration of the body by bolting it to a wall is really helpful as well.
I did that 50 years ago in high school. The teacher was impressed!
i was nervous with you, but i'm glad it worked out for you. stay safe buddy
Thanks for doing this. Very informative.
This is very interesting to see. Over here in Europe people are buying the "Wabeco Drilling Milling" stand. And because the stand uses the Euro 43mm mount you can mount drills and milling motors. Thus Drilling and Milling stand. I have one and for drilling purposes I use the Bosch GSB 21-2 RCT, this drill is very powerful and can spin very slow. Also the button layout is great for the stand. Wabeco also have great attachments you can even make a small wood turning setup with it.
Thanks. You sated my curiosity as well, as this was something I wanted to try as well!
I agree the right tool for the job is best but light weight router work with floor mount drill press can be safe with correct setup. Suggest you pick up a shopsmith router chuck which you can attach to a Morris taper. Grind an angled ramp faced down and away from the end on the Morris taper adapter so that the chuck set screws lock in safely. Use a bit Shield and full face shield for safety against flying bits. Now with the use of a CNC bit you can do all kinds of free hand carving. Love your tips. Keep them coming.
Thank God you ended with saying you don't recommend this, LOL. I was thinking the whole time, someone is going to destroy their drill press, glad you explained that.
I’m glad this worked for you. It could have gone badly. Drill chucks are designed for downward (inward) pressure. I have had them loosen to the point of having drill bits fall out of hand drills while running because I often withdraw the bit from a hole while the bit is running to clear chips. I re-tighten the chuck every few holes when I do this because the bit will unscrew from the chuck due to the outward force of withdrawal (away from the drill). I noticed comments about the chuck coming off. Not surprising. The treading is all made to tighten with downward pressure. It loosens with upward pressure..
Thank you for curbing my curiosity as well! Now I don’t feel like I have to try it out myself lol
7:30 really glad you touched on how the quillion that holds the chuck in place is a tapered cone fitment & how side load can loosen that connection.
I appreciate the experimentation, and the very appropriate warnings. Note that the final product came out too short by the thickness of the backing paper, as you would expect.
Honestly good to get that curiousity scratching scratched haha.
Interesting stuff and it works , I had too use an SDS drill bit n a normal chuck it didn’t fit, after cutting off the SDS parts it worked fine , it’s good to know these tool cross over tips ……thank you
Excellent. Curiosity leads to a lot of great things.... great explanation.
As a H&S Officer I think you are defeating the object, Showing people something that can cause real harm is off the scale no matter how many times you say in your video I don't recommend it. I'm shocked at you....
Robbie from Huyton Liverpool UK..
Do as I say but not as I do! Great lesson honestly
The opening line had me laughing out loud. 😆 Cool video tho!
I've had that question in my thoughts for sometime too. Thanks.
when the chuck falls off you got a high speed gut cutter comin at ya.
I wondered the same thing. StewMac has a planer bit for a drill press, but given the much higher side torque with it, since it’s quite large, that sounds like a disaster waiting to happen. Thanks for posting, new subscriber here!
There are too many better ways to do this. Drum sander, router table, table saw, hand router plane to name a few. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.
A delightful feature of modern push-fit taper mounts instead of a proper solid mount with key chuck.
There a several YT vids where pillar drills are fitted with a home made spool sander drum…it works of course, but the same risk of breaking the morse taper lock and damaging the the thrust bearings is always there. Don’t do any side loading of a drill’s quill unless you don’t care about your tools or the risk of a heavy rotating chuck flying out….
Using a Safe-T-Planer bit is probably the best way to do this. They've been around for many years and are purposely designed to be used laterally on your drill press.
I knew a luthier would mention the Safe-T-Planer.
The well-known luthier supply company that I work for sells the Safe-T-Planer; it is a popular product and would be my first choice if I were to attempt milling with my drill press. Personally, I'll stick to using my router table for this kind of work.
I’ve used my drill bit as a pattern following router for years. It’s the safest way to do precise small work. Just take a drill bit blank 1/8”and grind the end at a 45 degree angle. Chuck up the bit. Turn up the speed to 3000rpm. You can put your hand on the bit no problems, luthiers have been doing this for years. I raise my table in increments to get the depth I need.
Woops “drill press”
Yep, something I have pondered over. Ta for showing me instead 👍
When Adam Savage rebuilt his drill press, he pointed out that his chuck has a threaded collar matching the threads at the base of the spindle's taper, and that it is specifically for retaining the chuck under lateral forces when using a sanding drum. Without the threaded coupling the chuck won't stay on the taper when side-loaded.
The Morse taper is what found in many drill presses. Yep they are not designed for side loads as you discovered! 🤣🛫
I like the idea. Thanks!
Pretty interesting indeed, dude! Great results! 😮
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Wen Products, who makes the drill press I own, recommended to me against using my press as a router/mill because the bearings are not designed for lateral stresses. Cool video!
I loved this video. Problem solving at its finest. Glad you got footage.
What he is doing is actually very dangerous and damages his tools.
Uh no, it isn’t problem solving.. it’s stupid clickbait.
Dead on commentary! You covered all of my thoughts of warnings.
Get a Shopsmith, you can pick them up cheap used. They do an awesome job being a drill press, router, table saw, lathe, etc.
Thanks for the video on what can be done in a pinch, but not recommended. I think I'd have set the drill press table at the right height, to use two hands on the material. Of course, in my case I think I'll stick to the (less scary) router table.
Well, I actually have been doing this for 20 years, and you are correct, in that a chuck does tend to have more "play" in it. I first set the desired height, then LOWER the rabbiting bit into the preset depth done on the drill press stop. I NEVER have used it to mill down the length of stock like you just tried! But it is a really handy technique when you have, say, a hole that is too long or deep in the stock for say, a toggle switch, or a connector in an electronic or shop tooling fixture, where you all of a sudden need to put a head of a larger bolt or screw flush or below material surface.. when that wasn't originally your plan 😡.
Knew this but now I am wondering about the shop fox oscillating drill press. It is designed to be used as a sander that has a mechanism to auto shift the drill head up and down.
so i want to see you try a round over bit in a hand drill, lol but i dont want you to get hurt, but this is entertaining.. thanks for video taping yourself doing something stupid lol, those are my favorite genre
I think I’ll give that a go thanks
Well done. Well thought through and approached relatively safely!
relativey safe any real woodworker wouldn"t think about using a "relativlevely" safe way to do something. We like to work with all our fingers. Those who will try these relatvely safe techniques are the ones placed in danger and lose a finger or worse. Are there any 100 % sure power tools for even the best woodworker.?
You should look for a collet attachment for your drill press that way you can put things like router bits in it safely and sand in it safely, maybe this old Tony or diresta can make something for your drill press?
I use a router bit in the drill press when I want to cut a slot in extruded aluminum material. I mount the aluminum piece in a dual axis drill press vise and move the bit through the work with the screws on the vise like a milling machine.
THANKS
Good take. That will keep me from trying this. I probably would have started with something similar to the work you did.
If that makes you nervous maybe you should take up needle point. Lmao
There are usually work arounds for most of what we do. Deciding on whether or not they are practical or safe can lead to interesting things happening in the shop.
after some spilled blood , { minor } I try not to do that anymore.
Cool experiment, and glad it worked for you. Curious if putting a strip of the yellow tape material on the miter saw table parallel to the cutting slot, a few inches either side would have worked so the entire surface of the saw table was built up to level....but I'm always looking for the easy way out. And it wouldn't be good material for a video....
probably would work in a way but then again you wouldn't be safe for all cases if you wouldn't plaster the whole table with that tape
It worked because the diameter of the router bit was far narrower than the diameter of the chuck and because you were working with a grain less engineered product. Make the but wider or use a hardwood and your creating a hazardous situation. Although there used to be a product called a Safety Planer that was designed to work on the drill press and could be used to plane a workpiece flat. It was supposedly very safe even though it was wide and to be used on all varieties of wood . I never saw it in action, but it's always safest to use the right tool for the right job.
One of my early tools was a shopsmith mark 5 one of the setups was an overhead router using the drill press
did you put the depth limit device on your drill press, I have an older Delta and it has an awkward tightener on the right side,
I think you just invented the overarm router! To me, this is one of the big arguments for a (small) milling machine in the wood shop. It's awesome for this, much safer, easier to dial in dimensions, and is super rigid. I do this kind of thing all the time on mine... plus it serves double-duty as a drill press
Jeff I worked 40 years as a toolmaker and do woodwork in my retirement, but I belong to my local Menz Shed where we have a small milling machine and metal lathe. The mill can be useful for wood work, and allows extreme accuracy. I even prefer to use the metal lathe for wood in a lot of applications. You are ensured perfect parallel where needed, and it is much easier to work to a set size. Dust is a problem, but much easier to clean off than metal swarf.
Just put two strips side by side on top of your throat plate so the entire surface is covered , then cut the bottom for a flush fit.
No raised middle section from a single strip of tape that way .
Been there, done that.... If you think using at as a router is bad, don't try milling metal... The chuck occassionally get's thrown when the jacobs taper breaks free.
I cut a nautilus spiral in a wooden snail shell by drawing the spiral and following the pencil line with a 7/64" drill bit in the drill press like a groove bit. It had effect. Very light passes.
There are many things wrong with this approach: bearings not meant for lateral loads is the obvious one, but rpms WAY too low is the next issue. If you can't increase the rpms, you need to use a "sharper" bit - a HSS downcut bit would improve safety and surface quality a lot.
Don’t try this at home???? Sounds like a challenge 😎😎😋😋
To be honest….I was feeling nervous too. Great vid.
Glad to see you using the GRR-RIPPER to keep your fingers safe during your experiment! Instead of having the GRR-RIPPER Tilted, you could have used the Balance Support that came with it to keep the pushblock level which will GREATLY improve the holding power of the legs since they will be flat. We can get you any parts you may be missing.
Most drill presses simply do not run a high enough RPM to safely use a router bit. 10,000 RPM would be the bare minimum, and a 1/2" bit like yours is recommended to run at 12-14,000. You were removing very little so it worked, but this is a very risky cut.
Hey, thanks for the feedback, guys! I've been using the GRR-RIPPER for years. It's one of my most recommended safety items. I do have the support, but in this situation it would have put my hand too close to the chuck, and I needed more clearance. And honestly, the tape was quick and easy. But thank you for the recommendation.
Agreed, it is a risky cut, which is why I said several times that I don't recommend anyone else trying it. But at only .021" removal of what is essentially MDF, there was very little side load and no grain to pull or push one way or another. Still sketchy either way! And definitely something I wouldn't suggest others to do.
@@InspireWoodcraft Keeping your hand away from things that want to bite you is why the GRR-RIPPER exists!
Next time try moving the handle of the GRR-RIPPER to the side. So the Balance Support would put the legs flat on your workpiece, and the handle could be moved toward you, away from the chuck.
Before I had a collection of routers, I used the accessory end of my radial arm saw to rout. Worked, but didn’t give a finished surface.
FYI. A router bit with a 2mm (1/12") diameter head at 18,000 RPM would have any point on it's circumference with a velocity of 113m/s.
BUT my dovetail bit with diameter of 12.7mm (1/2") would only need 2,835 RPM to achieve the same tip velocity.
SOOOOOO the pillar drill at max revs (+-1,500) is definitely in the ballpark re RPM for router bits with greater diameters. Also it has the benefit of you having a better top view of what you are doing.
Never tried it, never will.
I see a new name for your channel coming. Something like "The Adventures of...". Great video.
I have always wonder if a router bit would work in a drill press too....thanks for sharing. That being said, I would just cut an new insert and run my saw blade through it to give me a zero clearance. Not a fan of that tape....I have a half dozen or so wooden inserts for most of my common cuts.
I used a router bit in the drill press before but I just did a plunge cut with a round nose bit to make a round bottomed hole in a peice of wood that was small so I had to use a drill press vice to hold it any how so using the drill press made sure the bit went straight down and had no chance of hitting the vice jaws.
This is where you need a Shopsmith, you can use it as an overhead router
what if you used a hand drill instead, in a drill press configuration ? Ive read that it can work, depending on your rpm and the power rating
I have a Shopsmith, made to be a router and drum sander as well as a drill press. A used older Mark 5 can be only a few hundred bucks. I gave $200 for mine and also have the bandsaw and jigsaw attachments. Jacob chucks are terrible for holding router bits, you need a collet chuck.
As soon as he said:
"Don't try this at home."
I sprinted to my drill press,
chucked up a router bit,
and lopped-off a finger.
😀👍
seems like it would have been easier and safer to mount the insert to the plywood and slide the plywood. I have seen too many try and use a drill chuck for milling metal in a milling machine instead of using a collet or end mill holder,,,,,,,it is always fun to see that chuck fall off after telling them it will not work.......you can use an end mill holder or collet to drill though.......nice experiment......stay safe.....and thanks for sharing.....
For light cuts, there's not much difference between a router bit and an end mill you would use in a milling machine. I've heard of machinists using roundover bits on aluminum, and I've made light cuts in aluminum with a router. But, as you said, drill presses don't have the chuck (actually collet) and bearings of a milling machine. I've also cut mortises in wood in the milling machine, though very slow due to max RPM of 2000. Router table would be the right tool for this job. Maybe even a belt sander? Somebody's going to try this with less care and find out how much flesh a sharp bit can remove as the chuck comes loose...
Yup, I’m a professional and ticketed machinist. I can confirm that router bits and even circular blades can cut aluminum when done carefully
I appreciate there's a lot of pedantic jobsworths who say absolutely not to what something isn't designed for, which goes against science and engineering and what not. But this proves even if one does it, it shows what can and shouldn't be done or what's not recommended.
I see this is safe and everything calculated, depth adjusted tools keeping body and fingers/hands away, a sacrificial fence etc etc. It's surely not recommended but if one doesn't have. Router and is pushed, I can't blame them-and you-for doing this :) I see risks are removed where possible and unless clothes caught, I don't see this being dangerous the way you were being careful. Everything's dangerous, the damn table saw is more common and dangerous for lots of reasons. So thanks for sharing :)
4 minutes in, I think you missed the opportunity to glue the part to the plywood and move the entire thing instead. Could work, could send it flying, I'd have tried though xD
My gripper is much older than yours but it came with a side foot that can drop lower to accomplish what you did with the tape. Do they not include that anymore?
They do. The tape was just quicker for me.
prepreration is key
i had to do this in my work a couple of times with aluminium and a milling bit
set the pressdrill to highest speed, set the height of the table and the workpiece, drive the workpiece throught against the rotation
works fine, if you know how and for a few millimeters
but i would suggest that to anyone else without the knowledge
I use a cross-vise to hold my stock on a drill press and I then I find it safe to use with router bits. I run the drill press at top speed when I do this - a few thousand RPM at least. I go slow and use the cross vise to move the stock around. It works very well with very hard woods because they are kind of brittle. But, it doesn't work well with softer woods because they flex and don't cut cleanly. That leads to chattering which is made worse because the drill press doesn't have great side-load strength. I use router bits to machine wood. I've made sliding dovetails and I've flattened the tops of my bandsaw guide blocks.
Nice. Feather boards for extra safety wouldn’t be a bad idea.
My comment is on a different tack. By removing material on the underside of your insert you now have a gap between the end of the table and the insert. In my humble opinion, it would be better if you were to route out the top of the insert where the tape is going to go. This way you don't have to readjust your insert and you wouldn't have the gap between the table and the insert.
ive done this and immediately had to watch. Ive had to do this and ill never do it again luckily no major damage but took a chomp at my thumb and it hurt! definitely don't do this! hahha
This can work. In terms of dangerous, there is a huge difference between 20,000 RPM ad approx 500 RPM
A drill press will work in a pinch, but the bearings in the drill press are set up for straight down pressure, drilling, which doesn't support the router bit or drill shank. Also a drill press does not have nearly as high a rpm range. A router has bearings set up for side pressure, for routing and higher rpm's.
Do you not have the stand-off for your Griprrr?
some drill presses have a threaded collar and are designed for lateral loads like routing and shaping. What was your RPM you failed to tell us that. Kinda important dont you think?
Nice experiment. You have exercised a lot of caution, but despite that, it just does not feel right ;)
This is a lesson in how to make something take longer, and make it more dangerous, that could have been done on the table saw in the time it took you to figure out the set up to do it on the drill press.
Routing with a drill press was not uncommon decades ago. But there many drill presses that did not use Morse taper quills & chucks. Still, it's not a good idea to route on a DP.