For those that might be wondering, this type of system would work well at a miter saw station also, I just don't have the right setup at my miter saw to show you.
It does for sure. We use this method at the miter saw station all the time to cut our face frames for cabinets. We set the saw once to overall width of frame and use actual drop pieces of the stiles and the rails to space in between. Works great. Thanks for sharing
Heh glad you said that because as you were setting up the table saw I was thinking how could I do this on my Kreg ACS and then it hit me... just do the same thing with a stop set to 6" and the two spacers at the miter saw! Good stuff.
I'm surprised how you make anything with that funny, wierd ant totaly not precise metric system! Three eights of inch!? I just imagining mesuring surfaces with big math calculation!
For those of us that do not have a perfectly zeroed table saw,: Get two blocks that are each a little smaller than the inner width of the box, hold them together so they span the inner distance, clamp them together, then use it as a spacer between the fence and the saw blade.
lol, pretty much every other channel keeps telling me to "like and subscribe" ... and your channel I subscribed to ... not because you told me, but because the content is so good. Also signed up to your patreon as a thanks for the content! Cheers
Very nice, thanks for sharing. I think it was Norm Abram who said "theres a construction rule that says measure twice, cut once. The woodworking rule is dont measure unless you have to."
This is the way I do when building my stuff. I would add that you can use the box itself to set the fence from the blade. That way even if your fence scale is not calibrated precisely, it will still work. Thanks for your usual to-the-point video.
@@launchpadw9379 Put the box plus two scrap pieces against the fence. Push the whole lot up flush to the blade and lock the fence. Remove the box and clamp the two scrap pieces against the fence
I would like you to demonstrate the correct setup for doing this at your miter station. I don’t want to give you the "big head" or anything but this suggestion as well as several other recent videos are pure genius. You are an amazing asset to our community. Thanks and I look forward to more.
Thank you sir, I worked in commercial construction for 40+ years and struggled with this issue many times.. Would have been nice to learn this way back then..
Great video! To completely eliminate the need for a ruler, you can bring the box to the table saw and use it to set the fence location. Just place the box next to the blade and adjust the fence to be snug next to the box. Then, once the fence is set, clamp the two pieces of wood to the fence as this video showed.
I gotta say this, Jody, you are a maestro at showing ways to... "Think Outside The Box!" I've been butchering wood for damn near seventy years now, and I've learned more from you in the short time I've subscribed to your channel.... Thank you, my friend..........
This makes so much sense, so easily, that I feel a bit stupid for not thinking of it myself. Thank you for posting! I learned something very useful right here.
I was taught that over 50 years ago. Works every time. Wish TH-cam was around then, watching videos like this brings back information that was forgotten. Not everyone knows all the tricks and people like you put that information out there.
Thanks for the tip. Dimensional lumber is usually cut pretty close to the size labeled, plywood, not so much, so it’s best to use this method to measure when using certain materials.
I don't understand where this dumb myth originated in USA. For a country which invented the internet and all kinds of technologies the people there are unable to look beyond their nose. Most industrial manufacturing happens with the metric system. As does plywood. Plywood comes in 18mm Or 19mm thickness. The 19mm plywood is more popular. For gods sake take out your calipers and check the thickness of your plywood before mouthing off lame myths.
If the most accurate scale to measure is tipped, even a little, the angle of that ruler must be included in calculations. Measuring using your method is an easier way, that seems to be most accurate. Thanks for your video.
Great technique. I have found myself with a piece of wood that is just a bit short, even after spending more time than necessary with measurements. Me and math disagree often. Thanks for helping me remove the math.
Super. So, even if my saw was not as tuned as yours, I could set my distance by placing the width between the raised blade. Then add the two scrap side material like you did. That is so cool. Thanks. Be Well and Good Journey Richie
Another way is to use a really sharp pencil, and trace the inside dimension onto the materiel you're cutting. Then you can dial that in for a perfect fit by making incremental cuts, closer and closer to the line. Takes a bit, but it works.
Ha! , , , ‘Typically, I found this too late, otherwise my averagely finished little box project would’ve been at another level! Strange how the tiniest errors magnify and leap out at you- my old carpentry teacher used to say “You may have the biggest nose in the world- but if you have a tiny pimple on it, that’s what people notice!” - I think I’m going to revisit my boxes! As ever, great vid, thanks Jody 👍
Your solution is a very good one. Just a couple notes about measuring for your viewers. A tape measure should measure accurately both push and pull. That is why the end it loose - it compensates for the thickness of the hook. In order to make sure you get accurate measurements with a tape measure don't use the hook at all. Start your measure from one inch and use the tape lines. Don't forget to subtract one inch from your measurement.
Julie, I worked in a cabinet shop in the late 70's, and every Monday morning the foreman religiously had everyone check their tapes against the shop ruler and adjust them if needed. The hook tab at the end of the tape can be bent to adjust its overall length for accuracy. But most, if not all, tapes don’t provide a way to adjust for and changes due to wear or damage in the length of the slot that the hook tab slides in. This slot compensates for the thickness of the hook tab when changing between inside and outside measurements. Because of this, care should always be taken when closing a tape to insure it doesn’t slam against the hook tab which will eventually elongate the slot. You can adjust the hook tab to compensate for it on the inside or outside measurement, but not both. You probably know this, but some might not. 😉
I have used what I call a dead block attached to my fence short of the saw blade so I could get the right size cut and to be able to use my miter square but never thought of what you just showed. Glad I watched.. !!!
A even better way to ensure your inside piece fits its to use a making knife to mark it directly from your box onto the piece you are cutting. This eliminates ALL measurement errors. And the knife line is more accurate than a pencil line.
I would just set the fence once (for the length of the sides, then use the spacers as you show. One setting, perfect fit. For the inside parts, just use 4 spacers from the outside measurement.
Great technique, will definitely try that out next time. Now there is only one measure needed >> set the table saw to the desired width. Means if the box or inside piece doesn't come out where it should be the table saw needs tuning ... or upgraded. ;)
The problem with that is assuming that the thickness of the scrap board(s) are exactly the same as the work piece, which may not be true unless the thickness of the sheet was perfectly uniform. For inside dimensions up to 6 inches, I use a digital caliper which is accurate to a thousandth of an inch. From 6 to about 16 inches I use my larger combination square which is accurate to better than a thirty-second of an inch. Above 16 inches I use a good tape measure, which is accurate to about a sixteenth of an inch (I can read halfway between the marks to get a reading to one thirty-second, but with bending and the tip movement not being exact I find that the accuracy is only about a sixteenth of an inch). But with dimensions over 16 inches, an accuracy of a sixteenth of an inch is enough.
I kind of figured it was assumed that the scrap came from the same material that I was using on my project, which is uniform. Yeah the caliper thing has been brought up a few times but to me it just takes too long collectively for the majority of what I find myself doing in the shop. Plus then I would have to rely on a caliper for large projects which I wouldn't be able to do. On a large woodworking project 1/16" is still considered a huge gap where I'm from, but I suppose we all have our idea of what is close enough. Of course it always depends on the project and it's intended purpose as well.
@@InspireWoodcraft I said the accuracy would be a sixteenth, not the gap. Obviously there would be no gap, because you would clamp it together when you do the joinery. Besides, when I say the accuracy is a sixteenth, I mean plus or minus a thirty-second, which is quite feasible with a good tape measure. No reasonable maker has a problem with an error of a thirty-second on a 2-foot dimension. I'm not sure why you think calipers take a long time (it is just as fast as a tape measure), but I guess that explains why you also think plywood is perfectly uniform in thickness. It rarely is. If you measured it with digital calipers you would see for yourself. If you really care about accuracy, you need to use digital calipers for short dimensions, and you can get 24 inch rules for combination squares with sixty-fourth inch markings (or even hundredths). Over 24 inch dimensions, an accuracy of plus or minus a thirty-second of an inch is fine.
Well I don't think it makes sense to claim one is a "reasonable maker" or not because we are all making different things. I have had many woodworking projects where a 32nd over a 24" span was unreasonable. When working with acrylic, something I do, a 32nd might as well be a mile. But that's a different material so I suppose I will stick to wood. One cannot always just clamp things together to make up the difference in a short piece of material. Especially if that 1/32" can compound. Either way, if I was doing some sort of exposed joinery and had 1/32 anywhere I'd be kind of irritated. And that is my point: we all have our own idea on what is close enough and what is not. As for plywood, my plywood is uniform in thickness. Sure, not measured with a caliper moving along 1/4" at a time, but realistically. A .001 or .002 deference even over a couple of inches is virtually undetectable unless it is for precise fitting joinery. As for the calipers: I use calipers quite a bit. But even in the example that I gave in my video, I don't have calipers long enough for the long side of the box. Also I would have to measure the thickness of the material, double it, subtract it from the outside dimension and then carefully set my fence to the calipers. And yes, from personal experience I know that that takes a tremendous amount of time compared to the method I showed, and just isn't reasonable for the everyday things most people do in their shops. Which is probably why you won't find a whole lot of people woodworking with calipers as their main form of measuring. Yes they are more accurate than a tape or rule, but are not a tool designed for speed in a woodworking environment.
@@InspireWoodcraft You don't know how to use calipers to measure an inside dimension? LOL. They have protruding fingers specifically for the purpose. Know from experience, LOL. If a thirty-second of an inch is a mile, then a thousandth is 169 feet. So your plywood is extremely non-uniform in thickness for your application. LOL. You just keep making crazy excuses. Many wordworking projects where a thirty-second error on a 2 foot dimension was unreasonable, LOL. That is just terrible project design. Woodworking is not metal machining. Accuracy better than 30 thousandths of an inch is neither necessary nor practical, since wood moves.
Would love to know how to add the dimensions with mortise and tenon joinery with this method. Just starting to learn them and my first project looked pretty janky, to say the least. Placement is a mystery to me with where on the side of the board to put the mortise or tenon.
For those that might be wondering, this type of system would work well at a miter saw station also, I just don't have the right setup at my miter saw to show you.
It does for sure. We use this method at the miter saw station all the time to cut our face frames for cabinets. We set the saw once to overall width of frame and
use actual drop pieces of the stiles and the rails to space in between. Works great. Thanks for sharing
Heh glad you said that because as you were setting up the table saw I was thinking how could I do this on my Kreg ACS and then it hit me... just do the same thing with a stop set to 6" and the two spacers at the miter saw! Good stuff.
I would love to see that
I'm surprised how you make anything with that funny, wierd ant totaly not precise metric system! Three eights of inch!? I just imagining mesuring surfaces with big math calculation!
For those of us that do not have a perfectly zeroed table saw,: Get two blocks that are each a little smaller than the inner width of the box, hold them together so they span the inner distance, clamp them together, then use it as a spacer between the fence and the saw blade.
lol, pretty much every other channel keeps telling me to "like and subscribe" ... and your channel I subscribed to ... not because you told me, but because the content is so good. Also signed up to your patreon as a thanks for the content! Cheers
Very nice, thanks for sharing. I think it was Norm Abram who said "theres a construction rule that says measure twice, cut once. The woodworking rule is dont measure unless you have to."
This is the way I do when building my stuff. I would add that you can use the box itself to set the fence from the blade. That way even if your fence scale is not calibrated precisely, it will still work. Thanks for your usual to-the-point video.
An excellent idea!
@@launchpadw9379 Put the box plus two scrap pieces against the fence. Push the whole lot up flush to the blade and lock the fence. Remove the box and clamp the two scrap pieces against the fence
@@nshon7 I think you meant just the box between the fence and blade right?
This is the greatest, most helpful, no BS TH-cam channel in the history of TH-cam. So grateful!
I would like you to demonstrate the correct setup for doing this at your miter station. I don’t want to give you the "big head" or anything but this suggestion as well as several other recent videos are pure genius. You are an amazing asset to our community. Thanks and I look forward to more.
Your “no measure” philosophy has really caused me to rethink how I approach my work and has definitely improved it.
Any time I can not whip out a measuring device I will! I'll add this trick to my arsenal. I love your approach to wood working!
Thank you sir, I worked in commercial construction for 40+ years and struggled with this issue many times.. Would have been nice to learn this way back then..
Great video! To completely eliminate the need for a ruler, you can bring the box to the table saw and use it to set the fence location. Just place the box next to the blade and adjust the fence to be snug next to the box. Then, once the fence is set, clamp the two pieces of wood to the fence as this video showed.
I gotta say this, Jody, you are a maestro at showing ways to... "Think Outside The Box!" I've been butchering wood for damn near seventy years now, and I've learned more from you in the short time I've subscribed to your channel.... Thank you, my friend..........
Your stuff is so good...I'm building a "library" of all the tips and tricks you have, so I can refer back to them. Just good stuff.
Common sense, that’s why I never thought of it first. Cool video 🇬🇧
I really like the way you explain/show processes. Great job!
This makes so much sense, so easily, that I feel a bit stupid for not thinking of it myself. Thank you for posting! I learned something very useful right here.
Right? same here
This is one of the most helpful tips I’ve seen. SO SIMPLE. Thank you!
I was taught that over 50 years ago. Works every time. Wish TH-cam was around then, watching videos like this brings back information that was forgotten. Not everyone knows all the tricks and people like you put that information out there.
You're a star! Very clear and concise explanation. Much appreciated.
Great explanation. I'm a boat builder and we use a lot of templates and forms as opposed to measuring. Thx!
Simple but highly effective. Wish I had thought of it, but at least I thought to watch the video. 😊
Thanks for the tip. Dimensional lumber is usually cut pretty close to the size labeled, plywood, not so much, so it’s best to use this method to measure when using certain materials.
I don't understand where this dumb myth originated in USA. For a country which invented the internet and all kinds of technologies the people there are unable to look beyond their nose.
Most industrial manufacturing happens with the metric system. As does plywood. Plywood comes in 18mm Or 19mm thickness. The 19mm plywood is more popular. For gods sake take out your calipers and check the thickness of your plywood before mouthing off lame myths.
Catching up on a few older vids here.. this is a great tip !! Simple and accurate. ..and thank you !
i have adopted several of your no measure cut techniques...thanks!
i like your instruction style. You make sense and your explanations are clear. keep it up.
Great idea, wish I would have seen this sooner, my boxes would look much better. Thanks
If the most accurate scale to measure is tipped, even a little, the angle of that ruler must be included in calculations. Measuring using your method is an easier way, that seems to be most accurate. Thanks for your video.
Great vid. Love your relaxing gentle voice/commentary!!
Watching this actually made me smarter. Thank you.
Simply genius. Big things with little details. Good job and GOD bless you. From Puerto Rico.
That’s actually a really useful tip! Didn’t ever think about using the saw with a stop block like that to get the measurements! Good video!
This video is why I watch so many. Picked up a brilliant, easy to use tip. Thanks so much.
Great technique. I have found myself with a piece of wood that is just a bit short, even after spending more time than necessary with measurements. Me and math disagree often. Thanks for helping me remove the math.
Super. So, even if my saw was not as tuned as yours, I could set my distance by placing the width between the raised blade. Then add the two scrap side material like you did. That is so cool. Thanks. Be Well and Good Journey Richie
Another way is to use a really sharp pencil, and trace the inside dimension onto the materiel you're cutting. Then you can dial that in for a perfect fit by making incremental cuts, closer and closer to the line. Takes a bit, but it works.
I have never seen this before. I wonder why, because it really makes sense. Great insight !
Nice man..
An old man taught me that a long time ago....always works...first vid I've seen...I just subscribed...very well done.
Where do you come up with all these great tips? They are pretty unique compared to the other channels and they are usually the best way of doing it.
Wow absolutely brilliant, thanks Jody!
Great idea… you managed to really capture the problem
Very nice Video , my NEW way of Cutting inner materials
Cool vid. That method is kinda like using a Kerfmaker. Using the wood itself to do the measuring. I love these brilliant tips from you.
I'm a little bit on the fence about this one...
I'll show myself out, thank you.
I'll get your coat😂
@@howardosborne8647 "fast show" by any chance?
Oh, yeah I get it, ur good! Fence, hahahaha, oh that was a good one! Yes, show thyself the door. Hehe.
i use my bosch laser meter for inside measurement, it also shows the min/ max, hence a bowing/cupping may exist. neat trick if you don’t have one.
That was one of the slickest tricks I’ve seen. Thanks
I arrived at this same conclusion! Been doing this for years with excellent results.
It’s the simple solutions that often work the best.
Brilliant, super helpful tip!
Ha! , , , ‘Typically, I found this too late, otherwise my averagely finished little box project would’ve been at another level!
Strange how the tiniest errors magnify and leap out at you- my old carpentry teacher used to say “You may have the biggest nose in the world- but if you have a tiny pimple on it, that’s what people notice!” - I think I’m going to revisit my boxes!
As ever, great vid, thanks Jody 👍
GG, I take two sticks and slide them out to what inside i need and it works each time !!
🤯 Dang that is a really cool tip! And it makes total sense. Thanks so much for sharing!
Love you teaching method. We’ll done and appreciated
Will definitely be using this method from now, great points made, thank you 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Yup. Great job. This is a really handy tip for people who didn't know it.
Ok this is perhaps the best tip I have seen in a long time. Bravo man for thinking of this!
Solid, practical trick - very helpful, thank you!
Brilliant! Sometimes (most times) the easiest answer is the best answer.....thanks.
Brilliant in its simplicity
Your solution is a very good one. Just a couple notes about measuring for your viewers. A tape measure should measure accurately both push and pull. That is why the end it loose - it compensates for the thickness of the hook. In order to make sure you get accurate measurements with a tape measure don't use the hook at all. Start your measure from one inch and use the tape lines. Don't forget to subtract one inch from your measurement.
Yeah and what's crummy is that most tapes are not even accurate as far as how far the hook moves in comparison to the thickness of the hook.
Julie, I worked in a cabinet shop in the late 70's, and every Monday morning the foreman religiously had everyone check their tapes against the shop ruler and adjust them if needed. The hook tab at the end of the tape can be bent to adjust its overall length for accuracy. But most, if not all, tapes don’t provide a way to adjust for and changes due to wear or damage in the length of the slot that the hook tab slides in. This slot compensates for the thickness of the hook tab when changing between inside and outside measurements. Because of this, care should always be taken when closing a tape to insure it doesn’t slam against the hook tab which will eventually elongate the slot. You can adjust the hook tab to compensate for it on the inside or outside measurement, but not both. You probably know this, but some might not. 😉
Excellent. Always appreciate your solutions.
Nice trick. Can’t believe I haven’t even zero’d my table saw scale yet. It’s only been about 15 years.
I have used what I call a dead block attached to my fence short of the saw blade so I could get the right size cut and to be able to use my miter square but never thought of what you just showed. Glad I watched.. !!!
Brilliant tip, why have i never thought of this? Thanks for sharing
That was a really great video and tip.
Thank you.
I’m enlightened!!! Awesome tips! Thank you!!! 👍🏻
Very Cool Jody, Your always thinking, thanks.
Old school.... take the math out of it. Great info as always Jodee. Keep doing what you do.
Very well explained and it made measuring the box simple to have true cuts. Thank you for sharing ( Stay Safe ) .
I love your videos. You have made a huge difference in my work. Thank you !
Excellent tip, I'll definitely be using this method in future. Thanks.
Another great tip! Thank you for your time nd sharing.
A even better way to ensure your inside piece fits its to use a making knife to mark it directly from your box onto the piece you are cutting. This eliminates ALL measurement errors. And the knife line is more accurate than a pencil line.
Been using this method for many years In plexiglass thanks anyway brother
Sugeston. Why not use the box itself to set the distance from the blade to the fence ? To me it eliminates any error of fence settings ?
Best tip I've seen in ages. Thanks.
I would just set the fence once (for the length of the sides, then use the spacers as you show. One setting, perfect fit. For the inside parts, just use 4 spacers from the outside measurement.
?
Outstanding, a big thank you from this old Sailor.
Great technique, will definitely try that out next time. Now there is only one measure needed >> set the table saw to the desired width. Means if the box or inside piece doesn't come out where it should be the table saw needs tuning ... or upgraded. ;)
Most excellent Tip, Thank you
Fantastic tips, dude! Thanks a lot! 😃
I'm definitely going to use them!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Great tip! I guess, now and then, it does pay to think inside the box.
Brilliant!
Fantastic Advice
and clearly explained
The best tip I have ever seen
The problem with that is assuming that the thickness of the scrap board(s) are exactly the same as the work piece, which may not be true unless the thickness of the sheet was perfectly uniform.
For inside dimensions up to 6 inches, I use a digital caliper which is accurate to a thousandth of an inch. From 6 to about 16 inches I use my larger combination square which is accurate to better than a thirty-second of an inch. Above 16 inches I use a good tape measure, which is accurate to about a sixteenth of an inch (I can read halfway between the marks to get a reading to one thirty-second, but with bending and the tip movement not being exact I find that the accuracy is only about a sixteenth of an inch). But with dimensions over 16 inches, an accuracy of a sixteenth of an inch is enough.
I kind of figured it was assumed that the scrap came from the same material that I was using on my project, which is uniform. Yeah the caliper thing has been brought up a few times but to me it just takes too long collectively for the majority of what I find myself doing in the shop. Plus then I would have to rely on a caliper for large projects which I wouldn't be able to do. On a large woodworking project 1/16" is still considered a huge gap where I'm from, but I suppose we all have our idea of what is close enough. Of course it always depends on the project and it's intended purpose as well.
@@InspireWoodcraft I said the accuracy would be a sixteenth, not the gap. Obviously there would be no gap, because you would clamp it together when you do the joinery. Besides, when I say the accuracy is a sixteenth, I mean plus or minus a thirty-second, which is quite feasible with a good tape measure. No reasonable maker has a problem with an error of a thirty-second on a 2-foot dimension.
I'm not sure why you think calipers take a long time (it is just as fast as a tape measure), but I guess that explains why you also think plywood is perfectly uniform in thickness. It rarely is. If you measured it with digital calipers you would see for yourself. If you really care about accuracy, you need to use digital calipers for short dimensions, and you can get 24 inch rules for combination squares with sixty-fourth inch markings (or even hundredths). Over 24 inch dimensions, an accuracy of plus or minus a thirty-second of an inch is fine.
Well I don't think it makes sense to claim one is a "reasonable maker" or not because we are all making different things. I have had many woodworking projects where a 32nd over a 24" span was unreasonable. When working with acrylic, something I do, a 32nd might as well be a mile. But that's a different material so I suppose I will stick to wood. One cannot always just clamp things together to make up the difference in a short piece of material. Especially if that 1/32" can compound. Either way, if I was doing some sort of exposed joinery and had 1/32 anywhere I'd be kind of irritated. And that is my point: we all have our own idea on what is close enough and what is not. As for plywood, my plywood is uniform in thickness. Sure, not measured with a caliper moving along 1/4" at a time, but realistically. A .001 or .002 deference even over a couple of inches is virtually undetectable unless it is for precise fitting joinery. As for the calipers: I use calipers quite a bit. But even in the example that I gave in my video, I don't have calipers long enough for the long side of the box. Also I would have to measure the thickness of the material, double it, subtract it from the outside dimension and then carefully set my fence to the calipers. And yes, from personal experience I know that that takes a tremendous amount of time compared to the method I showed, and just isn't reasonable for the everyday things most people do in their shops. Which is probably why you won't find a whole lot of people woodworking with calipers as their main form of measuring. Yes they are more accurate than a tape or rule, but are not a tool designed for speed in a woodworking environment.
@@InspireWoodcraft You don't know how to use calipers to measure an inside dimension? LOL. They have protruding fingers specifically for the purpose. Know from experience, LOL.
If a thirty-second of an inch is a mile, then a thousandth is 169 feet. So your plywood is extremely non-uniform in thickness for your application. LOL. You just keep making crazy excuses. Many wordworking projects where a thirty-second error on a 2 foot dimension was unreasonable, LOL. That is just terrible project design. Woodworking is not metal machining. Accuracy better than 30 thousandths of an inch is neither necessary nor practical, since wood moves.
Perhaps you could use the box to set the 6’’ dimension, and then use the 2 scraps to set the interior dimension, great lesson 👏🇨🇦
Very good advice cheers for that the simple ways are the best
Wow, verry nice trick, thanks...now my next chalange will be to remember it when I gone need it!?!?
Would love to know how to add the dimensions with mortise and tenon joinery with this method. Just starting to learn them and my first project looked pretty janky, to say the least. Placement is a mystery to me with where on the side of the board to put the mortise or tenon.
Thanks for sharing this top tip. Will be trying soon.
Has a talmeter been mentioned? Got one from Hultafors, works great for "measuring" inside dimensions.
Great instruction. Thank you.
Another great video, thank's again, Jim
Good tip. Thanks for sharing
Nicely done sir
Thanks Jodie.
This is actually quite clever.
I feel that you're the only TH-camr I see who doesn't let their tape measure slam shut.
Drives me nuts!!
Great technique thanks
Terrific explanation. Thanks for that.
Glad I found you. Subscribed.