Wes, i can't wait until we get to see you doing a video of the dado blade's installed on your drillpress. Now that's the actual video I was hoping to see 😂😅🤪. As alway's buddy 💯% 👍 🇬🇧.
@@WesHamstra wes, nomatter how you decide to take a run at it just remember, don't forget to put on your safety sunglasses and do the job during these super dark winter evenings 🤪
Well someone has to offer criticism. You should not wear gloves when operating your power tools. If you get to close the blade can grab your glove and pull you in. Last year I had a minor accident on the table saw (a small cut), but if I were wearing gloves a small cut could have resulted in a lost finger. Just something to think about. Save the gloves for hand tools and handling lumber.
This video is interesting. Good job. To be honest, you could use a forstner bit and get almost the same cuts that maybe safer than using a spiral bit on a drill. You won't have to change the speed of the drill to do the same kind of job.
Good Demo! An idea for future - How about comparing various countersink bits (made for drills or drill presses) to CNC V-bits of varying angles in a drill or drill press?
not a good idea on the typical home shop cheapie drill press. that chuck is only held on with a taper on the spindle and a tapered socket in the chuck. if the bit gets hot and warms up the chuck body, it will come off. i do this on my 1946 Beaver 3700 drill press, but its chuck has a locking collar that prevents the chuck from coming off. you are also putting huge side loads on the bearings in the quill. they are huge because the side loading on the bit is a long way from the bearing. my old beaver has tapered roller bearings rather than crappy chinese made ball bearings. roller bearings are much more suitable for heavy side loads
Yes. I am aware of all this. This is why I think making a series of plunge cuts first is the best way to go to limit the strain on the chuck and bearings.
People don’t want to an alternative way to do things because someone else maybe as smart as them . What ever!! a router spins a 8000 ~20000 rpms how could a slower turn be more dangerous . As long as you feed slow
Great video, many, many years ago I too was taught to tighten the chuck using all three key ways and that’s how I’ve always done it. Thanks.
I worked in a machine shop in high school and was taught that. My Dad also taught me to do that as well
Great video Wes, I'm surprised it worked that well! Thanks for testing this out for us!
Thanks. I surprised myself as well..
Wes, i can't wait until we get to see you doing a video of the dado blade's installed on your drillpress. Now that's the actual video I was hoping to see 😂😅🤪. As alway's buddy 💯% 👍 🇬🇧.
That sounds super dangerous! I am in! Now to figure out how to do it safely.
@@WesHamstra wes, nomatter how you decide to take a run at it just remember, don't forget to put on your safety sunglasses and do the job during these super dark winter evenings 🤪
@@simonr6793that’s probably a good idea! Thanks
I've used wood router bit shapes on Aluminum to make rounded edge "Counter-Sinks" for lighting and cables instead of standard cone angles.
Well someone has to offer criticism. You should not wear gloves when operating your power tools. If you get to close the blade can grab your glove and pull you in. Last year I had a minor accident on the table saw (a small cut), but if I were wearing gloves a small cut could have resulted in a lost finger. Just something to think about. Save the gloves for hand tools and handling lumber.
Yep….I was thinking the same when he said he paused to put on gloves.
This video is interesting. Good job. To be honest, you could use a forstner bit and get almost the same cuts that maybe safer than using a spiral bit on a drill. You won't have to change the speed of the drill to do the same kind of job.
You are correct. With a Forstner bit you still have to go in and clean up with a chisel. With the router bit there is no need for that.
Plunging repeatedly makes for a clean slot. Hogging sideways makes for a nasty hole. Words to live by.
I'm glad that that no Wes was hurt in the making of this video!
Me too!
Good Demo! An idea for future -
How about comparing various countersink bits (made for drills or drill presses) to CNC V-bits of varying angles in a drill or drill press?
Those are great ideas. Something for me to think about doing.
I'd do it in a pinch. Thanks for testing it.
No problem!
Fly on the finger (@00:33) was creepy
not a good idea on the typical home shop cheapie drill press. that chuck is only held on with a taper on the spindle and a tapered socket in the chuck. if the bit gets hot and warms up the chuck body, it will come off. i do this on my 1946 Beaver 3700 drill press, but its chuck has a locking collar that prevents the chuck from coming off. you are also putting huge side loads on the bearings in the quill. they are huge because the side loading on the bit is a long way from the bearing. my old beaver has tapered roller bearings rather than crappy chinese made ball bearings. roller bearings are much more suitable for heavy side loads
Yes. I am aware of all this. This is why I think making a series of plunge cuts first is the best way to go to limit the strain on the chuck and bearings.
Try it with a hammer drill. Some of us don't have a drill press 😂😂😂
Use a 1/4 in works fine for me big as I would like to go
1/2” was a little scary
@@WesHamstra I thought so nice experiment
Thanks!
Use the right tool for the job.... nah, no one does that.
I know I don’t…
Theoretically yes
Practically waaay to low RPM
Yeah. It needs to go way faster.
People don’t want to an alternative way to do things because someone else maybe as smart as them . What ever!! a router spins a 8000 ~20000 rpms how could a slower turn be more dangerous . As long as you feed slow