Hi Chris I did a similar job to my 8820 13 years ago. Bought a 8820 from Arkansas as my first combine. Learned a lot it was a Spike tooth for rice, had too replace the cylinder, concave, pulleys and a bunch of other stuff 😢 but it gave me a great understanding of the machine. If you need any used parts call K&J surplus in Lansing New York Steve is a good guy and a friend of mine. He knows everything and anything about those machines has a lot new parts too. Good luck I think your biggest problem is going to be hauling all the grain away 😂. It's going to eat a lot of corn.
Glad you came to the conclusion to take the header off much easier to work on. I remember the inside of those well. My boss had one and I was the smallest guy. Guess who got to crawl inside when it was 105 degrees out. Didn't hurt my feelings to get away from that thing
Spallinger combine junk yard in Bluffton Ohio will be an amazing source of used and aftermarket parts for the 8820. Watch dropping open the bottom pan on the feeder house. The panel edge gets razor sharp. Bout lost a thumb unplugging one day.
Looking good Chris. I'm glad you got to do silage for 30+ days. Not just for the cash but for the experience of how a competent service works. You'll be in a really good place mentally come next season.
If you hook up your corn head to the combine and then unhook the feeder house at the combine and backup and the feeder house will stay with the corn head and then you can work on putting on the new rasspbars .
I leave the head on and unhook the fender house and let the header hold it . Also clean off the cylinder and before you put the last closer plate on throw a dozen golfballs inside it , they will fall around when you shut it off and knock of the dirt and keep it cleaner.
Great to see you fix up the old girl! Dylan Joyce and his brother rebuilt the front of their machine. You might get a few tips from them if you know them. Keep up the good work!
Hope the old girl does everything that you need her to do. I was in high school in the late eighties when those 8820 John Deere’s was new. I had a super low hour 1975 international 615 that was pretty much like new back then. Although it was a small combine with a 13-14 foot table and about 80 bushel tank capacity it served me well for my first combine. It still had the plastic on the seat when I bought it with 300 original hours. I remember borrowing 4500 dollars from the bank to buy it. Soybeans were a whopping 4.50-5.00 per bushel back then. I was 17 when I bought it in early 1987.
@@johnlynn6291 yeah, an 80 year old farmer had it, and only farmed something like 80 acres with it up until he passed, is the reason why it didn’t have many hours or acres on it. I bought it from a good friend of the older gentleman that farmed nearby with larger equipment and didn’t really have a use for it. It was a slick little machine. I ended up selling it later on and got my money back out of it. The fella who bought it from me was astonished at how clean and nice it was. He was a extremely happy buyer, and excited to get it.
If memory serves, we left the feeder house hooked to the header and disconnected the combine so the feeder house and header stayed together. It has been a long time but, as I recall, it was much easier that way. Also, we were told by John Deere to weigh each rasp bar and always put matching sets opposite each other. We bought a new 7720 in 1979 at a new dealer and the mechanic put on the rasp bars at random. He did not weigh them or match them. When I started the machine, it hopped around like crazy because the rasp bars were so unbalanced. We had to take all of them off and start over.
That is the correct way of putting them on. Did them on my MF before harvest. They come in sets of 2 bundled together and already weighted. After installing see if it is balanced and ad some washers as balance weight if needed
This old geyser has been with you almost from the beginning, you never cease to amaze with your tenacity and willingness to meet head-on everything that comes your way, with or without prior experience through research! And Yenko is always ready to work with or without A/C😅 Chris, you need a steam cleaner in the future, they are superior to compressed air cleaners _👍
Hookup a shop vacuum to the fill spout on your hydraulic tank so you create a vacuum and don't lose so much fluid while switching out the direction of the hose.
I'd ask your friend with the 6620 about blowing off engine. Here in the PNW those with 6602 hillsides would normally blow off the manifolds before quitting for the night. One neighbor said that at times the manifold could get red hot in wheat harvest. It can get upto 100 degrees or more in the lower elevations. My uncle upgraded to a 6602 from a 95H. He didn't know that alot of the guys blelw off the manifold before going home. Came out the next day and the thing smoldered all night, luckily not burning up. Had to replace wiring and some hydraulic lines. Not a fun job. Came home after that with a new leaf blower that many used to blow the engines off. Don't know about the 22 titans. Many green and silver combines got replaced by red axial flows in the 80's with greater capacity, better levellers and simpler combine and 4x4. The green xxOO series were a well built combine, but my cousins said you have to learn how to take stuff off to get to things. They went back to red.
Chris that was outstanding cleaned new bars in put the plates in and start to button up put feeder house in I don't under stand why you did not pressure wash the thing and prime that rust that well need replacement next year if not cleaned and primed with rustoleum to slow the rustyou can't park inside
As far as the belts go be sure to check your belts that run your hydro pump on the side of the motor. They are a matched set but when they go you lose all functions including steering. Don’t ask me how I know 😂
That's a verable speed belt there should be 2 bolts to screw In to collapse the pull u have to do top pulls and bottom to get room to pullover belt through
Since you have the belt of the cilinder, take the time to balance it. The machine will run so much nicer👌. Somebody correct me if I am wrong but I think these filler plates in between raps bars are only for sunflowers? We like to take them out for any other crop. Lots of dust can build up inside the drum
Take a real hard look at the bearings . Hopefully she will be good for you. They were the machine back in the day. My boss had one of the first ones in 1979 .
So, for this one video it was "Farming with Dusty AG"...? What I was thinking aswell (more of a serious thought) and I don't know if you ever thought about it yourself, but maybe it will be handy if you would get some metal shelving in the back of your workshop shed, so you can store some pallets with parts you have in this shed.. maybe put some metal grid in between the bars, so if you put a pallet on the shelf with your tractor and you dont have it quite right, the pallet wont fall in between... (just a thought....) I love the vids and the progress on your farm...
Normally when you clean all the crud out which is what gets a cylinder out of balance they turn rather smoothly. Those filler bars keep the grain from getting inside the cylinder as well as the chaff. Eventually it will migrate in especially bean dust and small grain and get it out of balance again. It can get rather violent at times shaking the whole machine.
They are called filler plates. You need them in for corn. You can take them out for soybean and / or wheat but you don't have to. Been running a 7720 for many years then went to 9550. .
Its ALOT easier with the feederhouse removed and its not that hard a job ,especially with a loader, much easier if you had a concrete floor , I had both 7720 and 8820 back in the 1980-90's ,
You should have bought a better combine Bla, Bla, Bla 😂 The ones with brand new equipment have breakdowns, and then have to wait for a factory tech. One lonely farmer got an older combine , better than Duffy’s , and he dumped a ton into it. Millennial Farmer is on part two of a major problem , real new equipment
Hey Chris if you ever do catch one of the Amish on video please please blur them out they have a set of beliefs that prohibits them from being in a picture please be respectful of that
it is good to see the 8820 getting ready to go to work. With the concave that full of mud you should clean the rear beater grate as well
I agree
Hi Chris I did a similar job to my 8820 13 years ago. Bought a 8820 from Arkansas as my first combine. Learned a lot it was a Spike tooth for rice, had too replace the cylinder, concave, pulleys and a bunch of other stuff 😢 but it gave me a great understanding of the machine. If you need any used parts call K&J surplus in Lansing New York Steve is a good guy and a friend of mine. He knows everything and anything about those machines has a lot new parts too. Good luck I think your biggest problem is going to be hauling all the grain away 😂. It's going to eat a lot of corn.
Glad you're back on your farm wrenching
Hope you checked and reset the concave clearance. Great to see you doing this stuff.
Glad you came to the conclusion to take the header off much easier to work on. I remember the inside of those well. My boss had one and I was the smallest guy. Guess who got to crawl inside when it was 105 degrees out. Didn't hurt my feelings to get away from that thing
Looking good chris cant wait to see it run and shell some corn good luck on harvest and have a safe one
You make things interesting and informative. That’s what keeps us tuning in to your videos. Keep on keeping on your doing a excellent job.
Be safe
I tell you, Chris, necessity is the mother of invention. Ya can't beat a working man.❤❤❤❤
Love how nothing daunts you .if it comes apart it WILL go back together again.👍
The work you have done and progress you have made is amazing. Loving following along. Thanks.
Spallinger combine junk yard in Bluffton Ohio will be an amazing source of used and aftermarket parts for the 8820. Watch dropping open the bottom pan on the feeder house. The panel edge gets razor sharp. Bout lost a thumb unplugging one day.
Know what you mean. I did it on an old 7700...
I am pretty sure we put our corn head on to remove the feeder house!!! It helps hold it
Looking good Chris.
I'm glad you got to do silage for 30+ days. Not just for the cash but for the experience of how a competent service works.
You'll be in a really good place mentally come next season.
If you hook up your corn head to the combine and then unhook the feeder house at the combine and backup and the feeder house will stay with the corn head and then you can work on putting on the new rasspbars .
Nice job sir. It was somewhat costly but you are good to go for a good long time now. And yes bean dust is the worst
Keep up the great work!!
You should take n grease the rasp bar bearings to see how much rumble or noise went away. As you would push it to roll.
I leave the head on and unhook the fender house and let the header hold it . Also clean off the cylinder and before you put the last closer plate on throw a dozen golfballs inside it , they will fall around when you shut it off and knock of the dirt and keep it cleaner.
That how we did it and it was easier.
Great to see you fix up the old girl! Dylan Joyce and his brother rebuilt the front of their machine. You might get a few tips from them if you know them. Keep up the good work!
Looks like quite the project
Hope the old girl does everything that you need her to do. I was in high school in the late eighties when those 8820 John Deere’s was new. I had a super low hour 1975 international 615 that was pretty much like new back then. Although it was a small combine with a 13-14 foot table and about 80 bushel tank capacity it served me well for my first combine. It still had the plastic on the seat when I bought it with 300 original hours. I remember borrowing 4500 dollars from the bank to buy it. Soybeans were a whopping 4.50-5.00 per bushel back then. I was 17 when I bought it in early 1987.
Man, 300 hours on a 12 year old combine
@@johnlynn6291 yeah, an 80 year old farmer had it, and only farmed something like 80 acres with it up until he passed, is the reason why it didn’t have many hours or acres on it. I bought it from a good friend of the older gentleman that farmed nearby with larger equipment and didn’t really have a use for it. It was a slick little machine. I ended up selling it later on and got my money back out of it. The fella who bought it from me was astonished at how clean and nice it was. He was a extremely happy buyer, and excited to get it.
If memory serves, we left the feeder house hooked to the header and disconnected the combine so the feeder house and header stayed together.
It has been a long time but, as I recall, it was much easier that way. Also, we were told by John Deere to weigh each rasp bar and always put matching sets opposite each other.
We bought a new 7720 in 1979 at a new dealer and the mechanic put on the rasp bars at random.
He did not weigh them or match them. When I started the machine, it hopped around like crazy because the rasp bars were so unbalanced. We had to take all of them off and start over.
That is the correct way of putting them on. Did them on my MF before harvest. They come in sets of 2 bundled together and already weighted. After installing see if it is balanced and ad some washers as balance weight if needed
This old geyser has been with you almost from the beginning, you never cease to amaze with your tenacity and willingness to meet head-on everything that comes your way, with or without prior experience through research! And Yenko is always ready to work with or without A/C😅
Chris, you need a steam cleaner in the future, they are superior to compressed air cleaners _👍
Hookup a shop vacuum to the fill spout on your hydraulic tank so you create a vacuum and don't lose so much fluid while switching out the direction of the hose.
Ag Machinery class with Bruce gonna be coming in handy haha
Seeing you guys work great together next season you will get more farms to grow the business 😊
It is wierd not watching you haul silage through a whole video. lol I enjoyed it. keep pushing
The last time we took the throat off a combine we put the corn head on it ,and took everything off and then back away from the throat
I'd ask your friend with the 6620 about blowing off engine. Here in the PNW those with 6602 hillsides would normally blow off the manifolds before quitting for the night. One neighbor said that at times the manifold could get red hot in wheat harvest. It can get upto 100 degrees or more in the lower elevations. My uncle upgraded to a 6602 from a 95H. He didn't know that alot of the guys blelw off the manifold before going home. Came out the next day and the thing smoldered all night, luckily not burning up. Had to replace wiring and some hydraulic lines. Not a fun job. Came home after that with a new leaf blower that many used to blow the engines off. Don't know about the 22 titans. Many green and silver combines got replaced by red axial flows in the 80's with greater capacity, better levellers and simpler combine and 4x4. The green xxOO series were a well built combine, but my cousins said you have to learn how to take stuff off to get to things. They went back to red.
Really important to blow everything off at least everyday including the motor. Alternator wil fill with chaff.
Chris that was outstanding cleaned new bars in put the plates in and start to button up put feeder house in I don't under stand why you did not pressure wash the thing and prime that rust that well need replacement next year if not cleaned and primed with rustoleum to slow the rustyou can't park inside
Combine tech also Chris 👍👍👍
Filler plats 😊
You need a couple outside lights so you can work later
Check your manual for which crops to use the filler plates on. You might want to lock at your elevators and also the auger flightings.
Ooo you have insulation right there in the barn you have enough to build a box just need heat tapes
As far as the belts go be sure to check your belts that run your hydro pump on the side of the motor. They are a matched set but when they go you lose all functions including steering. Don’t ask me how I know 😂
Never seen the inside of a older Deere combine. I can see why they went to a rotor like the red ones. Will see how it goes
When the crossbars are on a street sweeper or Sander 'top dresser' we call them Flights.
That's a verable speed belt there should be 2 bolts to screw In to collapse the pull u have to do top pulls and bottom to get room to pullover belt through
Since you have the belt of the cilinder, take the time to balance it. The machine will run so much nicer👌. Somebody correct me if I am wrong but I think these filler plates in between raps bars are only for sunflowers? We like to take them out for any other crop. Lots of dust can build up inside the drum
Something to look into Chris.
We don't have them for grain. Not sure about corn
The Hazzard boys need to make you brighter 😂😂, couple of outside vapor lights or something
Just ❤ it. 🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
We have a 4420 combine in our area.
Steiner is usually pretty good for manuals for what its worth Chris.
Take a real hard look at the bearings . Hopefully she will be good for you.
They were the machine back in the day. My boss had one of the first ones in 1979 .
So, for this one video it was "Farming with Dusty AG"...?
What I was thinking aswell (more of a serious thought) and I don't know if you ever thought about it yourself, but maybe it will be handy if you would get some metal shelving in the back of your workshop shed, so you can store some pallets with parts you have in this shed.. maybe put some metal grid in between the bars, so if you put a pallet on the shelf with your tractor and you dont have it quite right, the pallet wont fall in between... (just a thought....)
I love the vids and the progress on your farm...
Unistrut works great.
👍
Junkyard is growing in size
Should be a corn eating machine! 👍
😊😊😊😊
Does the drum not need to be balanced after changing the rasp bars?
Normally when you clean all the crud out which is what gets a cylinder out of balance they turn rather smoothly. Those filler bars keep the grain from getting inside the cylinder as well as the chaff. Eventually it will migrate in especially bean dust and small grain and get it out of balance again. It can get rather violent at times shaking the whole machine.
You are supposed to
Thought you said that unit was harvest ready when u bought it?
Did you ever fix your pickup
Put your corn head on an u can unhook your feederhouse and back away from it. Do it on my 9600s an can have feederhouse off in 30 mins.
Did your corn Black layer yet?
🚜🌾🌾
Is that Amish farm in Fort Plain headed towards Cherry Valley? If it is I lived there years ago.
Feeder house,,,, not feeder housing. And if I remember correctly, those are the wrong concaves for corn. You might want to look into that.
They will work ok, I think. He will need to slow the cylinder and open the concave until he finds the sweet spot.
Idk if buying a knowingly broken combine that old was the best move tbh chris.
There's serval after market rasp bars that are better than the original ones and work much better
I think you leave them fillers out for corn
They are called filler plates. You need them in for corn. You can take them out for soybean and / or wheat but you don't have to. Been running a 7720 for many years then went to 9550.
.
Transition panels look a bit thin in the middle.
Its ALOT easier with the feederhouse removed and its not that hard a job ,especially with a loader, much easier if you had a concrete floor , I had both 7720 and 8820 back in the 1980-90's ,
No pressure washer?
Where can i find your head set
Ya mean that Parrot head set he wears sometimes? Amazon is the cheapest.
"Defnuhly" is not a word.
When’s the truck gonna be back
If your just doing corn you dont need them hoses for the corn head
You should have bought a better combine
Bla, Bla, Bla 😂
The ones with brand new equipment have breakdowns, and then have to wait for a factory tech. One lonely farmer got an older combine , better than Duffy’s , and he dumped a ton into it. Millennial Farmer is on part two of a major problem , real new equipment
"Lowen Rasp... Bars "Are Really Good " "Ps... "Shoup Parts" parts are "A$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$..O.M.E "Improved"
Why not take concaves out to clean them. I think there were for Soybeans?
WRENCHING WARRIORS WIN AGAIN 👍👍👍
Nice mask. Smart
Your kick butt buddy keep it up and prove so many people wrong about you
"Ps """ Put "Poly Liner In " "PS.."May WESS has "Awesome Products"
Amish in st Lawrence county can't have rubber tires in fields.
Don’t put the filler Plates back in
The machine is designed to have them in for all crops. They ate designed to self clean out as long as they are installed correctly.
I have a printer and download manuals to my phone and print them off ,for what its worth
STAPLES you need to buy a printer staples will cost you a arm and a leg to get all that printed
Check your library, they might be cheaper per page
Fedex express or the UPS store is cheaper, but Johns right, local library should be the cheapest.
Hey Chris if you ever do catch one of the Amish on video please please blur them out they have a set of beliefs that prohibits them from being in a picture please be respectful of that
Yeah those Amish online will sue you…..
Who cares this guy must be Amish wtf this dude must not know their lives are way different then ours there abuse to everything is bs
Doubt they are gonna see the video 😂