8 months in, close to 8.000 views later this video has seemingly helped many people with tuning their edges. If it changed your world and you want to express your gratitude and support my channel, you can do this here: www.buymeacoffee.com/justaride Thank you so much, and don't forget to check out my other content! ;-)
One of the best tuning tutorials I have seen, thank you so much! A few of my boards the manufacturer referenced 0 base bevel - glad you cleared that up!
@@kosycat1 awesome!! Thank you!! Share the love. There’s a lot more nerd stuff about everything snowboard on my channel. Feel free to support it here, if you want: buymeacoffee.com/justaride 😎🙏
On the topic of detuning the edge. I come from ski racing, and don't do any detuning to my skis, for many people detuning gives a cushion for error before the edge begins to really grab. For many their boot fit is not tight enough/ they cannot or will not tolerate that tight of a boot, and that impacts control over the board or ski as it rides on edge. Advanced riders with tight fitting boots don't really need to worry about detuning, and as you expressed the edge feels more stable and sharper without it, but it can be to aggressive for beginner riders or those in looser fits. I like to do my detuning (when I do tuning for other people) with a hard gummy stone or a diamond stone (preferably a cheep one that you don't care about because it is hard on them) as detuning with a file is more aggressive than is necessary and takes to long to sharpen back up if you decide that you don't want the detune.
I also watched the Swix videos and purchased the sidecut ceramic stone as he advises and I had all same questions as you. My dad is a chef and was explaining that it’s the same thing chefs do with a ceramic honing rod on their chef knife’s every day as it isn’t abrasive (technically it’s micro-abrasive) and it simply folds/bends the “burrs” back straight. When I’m using it on my boards, I dan definitely fold the burrs up with the stone from base edge up to the side edge, and then the diamonds take it right off. It Does seem to work.
I would not enphasize enough how important Is to have good and proper sharpened edges for good ridibg. So many people out there ride boards impossible to carve with because of the horrible edges. If i can't trust my edges I start to to get contracted, and my technique messes up,It Is actually a situation where you do not consolidate tour technique, rather you get worse and you get bad feelings that store in tour nerve system , compromising everything. I can carve in Blue ICE with properly tuned edges, and I feel skidding in good snow of the edges are messed up, It makes all the differenze of the world.
Thanks for the video. The high level of detail is great. Love the content. Jones claims their boards come with a 0 degree base 90 degree edge. They say this is so the rider can decide what they want. If that is true this would mean that a ton of riders are out there riding 0/90 since people who casually ride usually don't bother with ever having their edges sharpened let alone having a tune done.
Great 😃 Thanks for the response. I found this refering to using a red scotchbrite pad for removal: th-cam.com/video/8vJ6CApM5mI/w-d-xo.html Any other videos in particular for preventitive measures?
Great video Lars, some great tips in there. Thank you. As was said previously regarding the ceramic it's what I use for deburring my chefs knives. However I generally finish them on a 4000grit stone. For a really fine edge I may use a leather strop and 16000grit for a mirror finish edge (way too much for a snowboard edge unless you want a shave too!). However the idea is the same. What I would say is that the finer/smoother the finished edge the less burr you will have and the key to minimising burr is to use lighter passes along the edge as you go to finer stones/diamonds so more passes but with less pressure is how I would tend to go.
Agree with this be the best edge tunning video, the part you said about be light on diamond stones is gold, i never thought about that too much pressure been sending the microbur from one side to the other too much. I have that white sidecut ceramic stone, i will try to use without the guide at the base as you to put the bur on the right place.
Stoked for this one! Before this season started I knew it was time to get more serious about my tuning. I did a ton of research and decided I wanted Sidecut tuning gear. Essentially everything you showed in this video. WOW is it all ever high-quality gear. It makes the whole tuning process enjoyable and I’ve ever had nicer edges Or bases. I also got their brushes, world cup iron (Star), etc. Yea I could have bought 2 snowboards for the price but it’s totally worth it in my opinion. I also received my first Stranda, a Cheater 170w, last week. Oh man 🤤🤤🤤
Wow, thank you for this video (and all the others). The idea of using ceramic for deburring is excellent. I really liked your comments about detuning inside the touchpoint. Because I really thought that it made no sense to do that with aggressive driving. But the people who sharpen in sports centers work on the assembly line for everyone. Without trying to find out if it is the needs of each client. This is why doing it yourself is the best solution. Thanks again and have a good season!
Thank you for this! I think I watched the same SWIX clinic about the ceramic stone. Never thought about rounding the nose and tail edges though.... going to try it. Have you considered doing a wax video? Specifically how to hold the iron and the multiple edges and bevels they have? Once I started I was always overheating the board, but turned the iron up maybe 3-5°C above the wax melting point and that made a difference. Still heats tip and tail more than the rest but usually less material there to disperse heat I assume. But how to hold to iron and get the wax to flow and shift in the direction I want is still a nuance. Maybe the drip method or application quantity is incorrect? Too much or too little wax perhaps? We nerds would love a wax/iron nerd-out video please!
Hi Lars, can you give some advice about how to correctly tune the side edge of a splitboard with some kind of magnetraction technology? Thanks for your help and amazing channel !!!
Great video! I have always taken my boards to the shop to get tuned but I want to start doing it myself from now on. I have a Capita BSOD that I absolutely love. Capita states that all their boards come with a 1.5° base bevel and 88.5° side, making it 90° in total. This has been working great for me but it's quite hard to find guides for half degrees. Some adjustable guides seem to be able to do it but I'm not sure if those are any good. I also don't fully trust that the edges actually are what Capita states. What kind of a difference would it make to how the board rides if I were to change it from 1.5°/88.5° to 2°/88°? Would you recommend getting adjustable file guides before I figure out what exactly are the angles I actually want? I ride pretty much all mountain. Love to carve, love to jump, love to hit the park. Not exactly great in any of them though. 😄 Sorry for the long ramble. Thank you for the great content! ☕
Sidecut tools make a 1.5 degree plastic bevel for cheap. Otherwise, standard is 1° and the higher you go, the lazier the board engages turns, which is preference and not always a bad thing. You won't ruin anything. It can all be fixe, if you don't like it.
Hey Lars, This is by far the best tuning video I’ve seen-hope the channel gets tons of subs! You mentioned starting with a gummy stone for detuning since files can be too aggressive. Could a diamond stone work instead? I have a dual-sided one (325 grit/600 grit) with a handle, and it seems like a good option. For Magne-Traction, if I’m detuning the main contact points, should I also lightly detune the individual peaks along the edge for a couple of inches? Thanks for the great content!
Just starting the vid, looks very useful so far! Nicholas at Korua had a cheap sidewall trimming trick using the handle of his file in his tuning vid to scrape it down. Wondering what the pitfalls are for messing up your side wall?
It can become kinda rutted and not smooth. It's not the end of the world, but looks terrible and drags in the snow. I've seen his video, actually! Good little tip.
Thank you, very detailed explanation! How to deal with very damaged base bevels? Do I need to cut it until groves are not visible or just remove burst?
Another cracking video, thank you Lars! I came for the detune tips and found the post contact point rounding explanation really helpful. I have a new Biru which I will be hitting the slopes with for the first time on Saturday. Aside from maybe detuning the nose and tail do you have any other Stranda/Biru specific tips? Should I get it in for a wax ASAP? I couldn't find any info on the Stranda site as to factory wax quality etc.
Thanks man!! Yes, wax that board.... Ideally twice, haha! Factory wax is mostly applied with a quick hot wax roll. It doesn't get ironed in properly, so a high end base like the one on the Biru is by no means saturated. You don't HAVE TO wax it instantly, but personally I'd highly recommend that.
Great tutorial! For detuning, you marked the start (left) and end (right) of the contact point with a sharpie. Generally to detune should I only round the edge starting at the end of the contact patch? In the video it sounded like there are times when you would start detuning at the start of the contact point. I would expect that you would want a sharp contact point normally, right?
Depends on the rider and the board. I do want a sharp contact point. Less experienced riders can benefit from a board that engages turns less aggressively, so detuned contact points are better there. Given it's a full camber board, which doesn't really exist anymore, haha... With early rise boards I think it's fine to just keep the whole effective edge sharp. Maybe to disengage the edge a little detune might help some people.
Thank you for this video, very informative. I guess I have one of those boards without base bevel at home. My wife's Lib Tech Cortado, bought this year. She was riding it the whole week and did not complain. I don't get it :)
Interesting!! Did you check it, or is that an assumption? Without meaning to diss Mervin, their factory edge tune is one of the worst in the industry. It never bothered me, as I'd just fix that... But yeah, I wouldn't be overly surprised to hear that they forgot the base bevel or simply don't apply one. But then again, it is also very possible that it's a one-off!! These things do happen. Luckily it's a rocker board! Hahaha... :-)
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel Yeah, I did check. I put a straight object agains the base of the board and egde touches it on the whole width. But now I have knowledge - thank you - how to fix it. I will practice on my old boad first ;)
Hi and thank you! You need to insert the file into the sharpening guide at an angle that makes the contact patch of the file on the edge very short. That's not very efficient filing, but that's what you need to do. IMO if the magnetr. is so much that using a normal file is not possible, it has been overdone. I personally don't like boards like that. They're too grabby and dig into the snow too deep...
I'll slowly work myself up to that $1000 tuning gear. For now I'll stick with my sub $100 waxing kit and sub $100 sharpening kit. Old used boards do need some love.
Knife sharpeners (razor Blades) use for the Finish also lether and Paste... I use Just leather... Just for the fun, but it helps to feal good about the tuning ;-)
There's this tool (vola mini blade ceramic) that totally changed the finishing quality . You should try it. Finishing with this is fast and much better quality then without. From my experience , using oil or water is useless as the diamonds are less active and you have to pass more times for the same action. Just loose time for the same wear and tear of the tools.
I dont know but I would assume that the diamond and ceramic stones work the same way that knife sharpening stones work. I was told that the fine grit ceramic stones only polish the edge and doesent really affect on the sharpness of the blade, they only make it cut smoother. If you put an edge of a knife under a microscope you can see it looks like a serrated edge, the finer you go on stones the smaller the serrations become and the smoother your knife cuts. I would assume its the same deal with snowboard and ski edges as you are basicly doing the same thing but with diffrent angels. Hope this makes some sense to you. Thanks for the great content! - Janne
Very informative as always, thank you for posting. Some boards (like many of the Jones lineup) have three subtle bumps in the side cut. Would this change your technique or would you have any specific recommendations to sharpen these boards?
All the same. If the bumps are too deep to get a file in there, you'll need to insert the file into the tool at an angle that minimizes file surface touching edge. Jones is fine. Mervin boards often need that, and Rossignol. That's all. Good luck!!
Had no idea my boards had a base bevel. The more I know (thanks to your channel) the more I realize I probably don’t know. Now that I know, I can’t help but wonder if an annual ski tune with those machines they use as ski shops (which I will probably never use again) would tend to remove that bevel over time? Or would it be just if they set the machine to base grind?
Those machines automatically add a new base bevel after a base grind!! No need to worry. That being said, there's always operator error.... So if your ski is overly 'grabby' after a tune, you might not have enough bevel. Those modern tuning robots do a pretty good job when adjusted and operated well.
@ That’s pretty cool! How does the “tech” running the machine know what the base bevel was? Or can you pretty much expect its coming back out as 1 degree?
@@peterjmcgowan programmed settings. But the machines need to get serviced and calibrated. That is the single biggest culprit for bad tunes... A tech needs to check in intervals whether the results are still within the acceptable tolerances.
Lars, went ahead and followed your Board Butter link in the description to supplies (assuming/hoping that’s an affiliate link). Was about to do same with Sidecut but noticed you pop up an email address to order Sidecut stuff through you, is that still the thing to do?
Maybe I missed it, but how often are you using just diamonds stones vs using files? I'm assuming you use diamond stones every few runs or so, depending on conditions. Where/when do you decide to step up the abrasion and use files? Great video btw, subbed.
Great question!! If I get actual edge damage from hitting rocks, I use files. If I want to actually change the edge angle, I use files. Otherwise a 200 grit diamond to start is all it needs. Go down to 400 and 600, and your edges are like new again without needing files. Depending on conditions I do a diamond touch up every day or sometimes every three days of riding the same board. I definitely do it before every wax, which can sometimes also be every day.... Takes three minutes.... why not?! :-)
One nerdy thing not adding much to the 1000 dollar equipment is the super thin base tape which should be applied on the base along the edge before running over it with the bevel guide. The bevel guide is gliding on the tape not on the waxed base. Second remark would be to use a paint brush to clean the metal files after each run through.
I've experimented with the tape and didn't like it. But yes, good point. I clean files with a brass brush after the whole board has been done. Yeah, one could do that after every pass... but man.....
What grit aluminum oxide stone do you use? Looking at picking one up. Thank you for the great video! (Capita edges per online, 1.5° for both the base and side bevel, with an overall angle geometry of 90°.) having trouble finding a 1.5° edge tuner.
@@Justaride-Snowboard-ChannelDo you have a link or can you suggest a place to pick up one of these aluminum oxide stones? Can't seem to find anything other than for sharpening knives.
Ideally only the edge. In Boarder Cross and banked slalom it’s beneficial to file a higher angle into the base to n the tips of the board for a less grabby board entering berms. Insider tip!! 😎😉
After watching your video, i was wondering if you ever trie different base or edge angle on the heel side vs toe side, to do similar as asymetric side cut, to have more or less grip on the heel side?
Never! I believe that the rider creates the grip! Anything asym is there to help with heel turns, because they're so much harder due to the way the body is made... It's never been for me. The tight heel radii on those boards always threw me off. Great question!!
Hey @Justaride-Snowboard-Channel (Lars), Thanks for such a detailed video. I am motivated to get my tuning setup dialed in and stop paying for this work. I have a question for you. My daily ride is a Burton Custom X 162 EST. I ride medium Cartel X bindings, front +25 x rear -15. Probably more info than necessary for this question, but thats my setup. OK, I put a wonder bar on my board and I was really surprised to find that it was consistently base low (concave) through the entire effective edge. I tried looking on Burtons site but they don't mention anything about base shape edge to edge. From a tuning standpoint, should the base angle adjusted in any way to account for the cupped board? Is this odd that it is concave? Any thoughts would be super appreciated. With Great Respect, Soames
Good luck with Burton and base flatness!! If you ever find a flat Burton, let me know and immediately buy it and lock it away: it’s gonna be a unicorn! 😂 Channel causes dramatic base suction under the bindings. You suck the entire I-beam aluminum channel towards the top sheet. Can you tell that I think it’s the worst design? Yes! That’s what I think. Haha.. 😅 Sorry, absolutely nothing you can do about this!
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel I kinda figured this was going to be your reply. I have been riding Burton kit for so long, but it might be time to start thinking about a change. Happy Holidays Lars, have a great winter.
Great video! I won't let anyone put my board in those pesky tuning machines, so i will definitely use it. How do you decide on the right edge degree? I am intermediate, ride allmountain on groomers, flat top board.
Depends on your conditions and what you want.... and on board width... Boards relatively wide compared to your foot can have a greater base bevel to get them on edge easier.... Hard question to answer.
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel Well thanks for trying! But just to be sure: I wanted to ask about the edge angle - the thing that you are talking about at 16:30 of the video (88° on the board you are tuning), not the base bevel angle (I am way too inexperienced to mess with that!). I hope it's an easier thing to explain to a tuning newbie. Conditions and what I want: early spring, riding on groomers, just progressing and learning new things, including the basics of carving. From my edge I want control and grip. Board is relatively narrow compared to my foot. I am not quite sure what physics are behind the edge angles, what changes if I go 90°/89°/88°?
@@Antrios93 88 is performance carving, 89 is a little less sharp, less aggressive and more suitable for a less experienced all round rider. 90 is IMO somewhat nonsense, considering that the base is at 1°... which makes it a pretty dull edge overall.
Tuning before I wax my boards for the season. Now I’m wondering after about how many days of riding do you like to touch up the edges? And what stones do you use when touching up during the season?
All depends on conditions and how nice of an edge I want. And on edge damage…. If it’s burred I go 200/400/600/1000. If it’s not burred, I start at the 400…. Sometimes after every ride. Sometimes after three, four days…
Regarding the side wall remover. I always had the impression that when you file the side edge and the edge is already on the same level like the sidewall, and then you file the edge you obviously remove/file the side wall anyway? Of course you will have some plastics on the file, but this can be cleaned.
Depends on the sidewall material.... Mostly it starts messing with your file touching the edge. I have hardly seen it any other way. You can tell when your file just slides along without cutting...
Edge degree, can we maybe have a video on this specifically? You mentioned setting your edge to 88 degrees. You also said this in your free carver vs cheeta video but said it wasnt the best choice for that day. So what degree and why? I see sidecut sells these tools in 91-95 degree. I feel like im missing something. Also how do you feel about the plastic adjustable edge degree tools? Fantastic video by the way!!
@@UncIe_Drew thanks! So what I meant in the video was that my work was for nothing….. The soft conditions didn’t require the grip of 88° edges at all. However, no harm in having them. In regards to the angles: 2°, 88° and 92° are all the same thing, depending on which side of the angle you’re measuring! 😎 Hope that makes sense. If you’re in North America, you can get Sidecut through me. 👍
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel ok that does make sense. So 90 degree edge angle why or why not? Asking this because I saw jones lists their edges all being 90 degree. I chose jones because of your edge bevel comments. Is 90 degree just a standard factory angle? I may want to take you up on getting some sidecut tools. Still figuring out what I want/need. I won't be buying a set of edge angle file guides. So I'm trying to figure what 1 or 2 I may want to purchase.
@@UncIe_Drew 90° is great when you want a highly durable edge and don’t want much ‘bite’. 89° should be factory standard. 90° is also great for tuners!! It’s neutral. It hasn’t been ‘messed with’. You can start from fresh. Personally I’d never ride 90. Sidecut don’t even make a tool for that. I’m a way it’s an untuned edge, although it can be sharp and meticulous. 89° is good for most applications. 88° is needed when conditions get very firm. All depends on your predominant riding conditions, desired ride feel and ability level.
Thank you for the great content you share with us. I have some doubts when you mention how to remove rock damage with the aluminum oxide stone. If I have been freeriding often the base of the edge is full of damage. When the damage is slightly deep if I try to remove completly the damage it will wear out a lot of edge. Is this inevitable or in this kind of situation you let some of the damage in the edge? Also I have the question because you mention that the less we work on the base bevel the better. I recently bought the Stranda Cheater. I hope I use it for the first time this week.
When there's material missing in the edge, you can't fix that without a deep grind. So at that stage I accept it and simply remove anything that is sticking out and would damage my iron. Freeriding means rock damage.... it is what it is... :-) Stranda Cheater comes with 1° base bevel. Great board!!!
Thanks for the video! Jones claims all of their boards are 0/90 from the factory, do you have any experience with what are the actual angles they come with then? Do you think boards with 3d spooning can be ridden fine with 0 base bevel due to spoon acting as a base bevel effectively?
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel I just messaged them because I thought this was interesting too. On their site they say it's at 0 so you can do whatever you want to it, which makes a certain kind of sense. I'll post again on here when they get back to me. Per usual, super stoked to see another of your videos Lars, really helping me take my boarding to the next level!
@@nicodemus1828384 Aahhh! Okay! THAT is an entirely different story!! If the company chooses to do it that wat, that's great! BUT they HAVE TO TELL customers about it right on every snowboard with a big exclamation mark! :-) I think it's a great approach. But very few people even understand what to do from there....
In the comments of some other video on this channel I reported what I measured on two Jones Freecarvers right out of wrapper with the sharpie method and proper file guides - one was 89/1 and the other 88/2.
@@ekramhossain1982 no. Gummies are soft and are used to remove the very last micro burr after an edge tune. They can also work for surface rust removal. Aluminum oxide stones are hard and are used as step one: removing case hardening, aka rock damage to the edge. Doing that step with a gummy will simply ruin it without any change to the edge.
Tnks you so much for this tutorial!!! Just a question, I have two Stranda boards (Cheater and Shorty) Can I use 2° for both? I have just to polish with diamond stone to keep the edge sharpe? I don't know wich angle is set-up from manufacture. Tnks
You should do a tune in your desired angle and from then on touch up with the same tool and a diamond stone. Factory is 88°, but it’s never 100% accurate.
Would even a 240 grit diamond stone get damaged by case hardening? If so, What coarse is the aluminium oxide stone? Will a knife sharpening block do? Hard to find a small one like that.
Got my board back from a service with more dull edges than before :S having to learn how to do it myself. Tbh, it’s all rather confusing.i thought we were suppose to discard the aggressive files and stick just to diamond stones? Is there a simple version of this video for the core essentials? I’m kind of paranoid now of accidentally altering the base edge when deburring. I was planning to use gummy stones for rust and burrs then diamond stones in a tool for the sharpening.
Sorry, no simple fix. It would take 20 times of deburring to alter the base bevel to a significant degree. Just be gentle. Doing edges well is not a simple thing. Doing them badly, however, can be done in minutes.
Insert the file into the guide with the shortest possible contact patch on the edge... Tricky, inefficient.... Just don't buy Magnetraction! It's silly... Video coming at some point! ;-)
Jone's Snowboards state that their factory side and base edge angles are 90 and 0 respectively. I ride a Freecarver 6000s, and it looks to have a base bevel. Have you had any experience with Jone's boards? I don't have a gauge so its a bit hard to tell.
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel Another question, I've been watching through some of SideCuts videos, have you needed to remove the topsheet of a snowboard?
And what about side bevel, because if you need to tune your edge of the board that has both base and side bevel of 1 degree it seems that you should use to the 88 degree file guide to have final 89 edge? What about different boards, is it common to have both base side bevel, like Capita claims?
thank you for an incredibly helpful video. i have the nitro woodcarver and i can't figure out the base angle. customer service says it's zero degrees but per your pt, that's not the case. tried the sharpie test and didn't come off at one degree and am afraid to go further so as not to detune. any idea what the base angle is? thanks a million.
what i mean is in your experience have you seen nitro or other boards come from factory with an 86 degree base angle? thank you, aagin. @@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel
As often as you think it needs it... Depends on how and where you right in what conditions.... Edges wear out, as in: become dull. Riding firm slopes accelerates that. It really is up to you. I do it a lot.... I carve a lot... :-) Like, at least after every five rides on any given board, likely more often. Just a quick touch up with diamond stones.
What are your thoughts on the way Salomon tunes their edges. They say 1 degree in the tip and tail, and 2 between the feet. I can’t imagine the point of that.
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel it says 1 degree bevel and 2 degrees between the feet. I always assumed they meant base but yeah it would make sense if they were talking edge i guess.
The key is to insert the file into the file guide in a way that makes for only a short section of the file touching the edge. That's a matter of the angle and depth at which you insert the file. If the file section that actually cuts is too long, you won't get in between the magnetraction bumps.
Especially with the older, more aggressive magne traction, you may have to go completely sideways, ie. 90 degrees to the guide - which obviously only works for diamond stones, not metal files. Other than that, there also is the SKS Swing-Cut tool. It works great for the side edge, there is tungsten hard metal file bits for it that cuts through the steel edge like butter and even a hard sidewall. Drawback is the limited selection of matching diamond stones that take longer to change then with a file guide.
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel Hmmmm...........I emailed Ride and they replied saying all their sintered base boards are 1.5 deg for both base and side!! I will agree with you though as it is very hard to find a tool that does 1.5!
@@ekramhossain1982 best tip I can give you: don't overthink it! 🙂Who says that one needs to ride the factory tune?? I hardly ever do after all.... the factory has almost always weird inaccuracies. So I always tune right out of the wrapper. But I'm a crazy person!! :-)
@@ekramhossain1982 That's what they told me as well. I didn't mess with the base, but I did change the edge to 88. Figure when it's time for a base grind I will reset the base bevel to 1
I am experiencing confusion, hoping the community can help out. my wife and I have some new boards and I am going to start waxing and keeping our edges sharp. The confusion is that I'm also getting told to leave the edges of the snow board alone all I want to do is keep a crisp edge not change the angle or any of that. We board in Tahoe CA area our snow is more often icy or in spring slushy. should I be maintaining the edge sharpness or it is not needed?
Last couple minutes of your video, pity you went so fast as I almost missed it! If it’s 1 degree base then 89 degree side will give you a 90 degree edge. So you sort of need to know your base bevel first. Just having at it with an 88 degree side bevel tool from the interweb might not actually be giving you an 88 degree edge?
@ LOL Yes, I totally get that now. The thing I didn’t get, and I wonder if I’m not alone, is for years I was using an 89 side bevel thinking that’s what my edge bevel was! But, that’s not the same thing at all…
Depends on how often you ride, what conditions you ride in and how much you prioritize sharp edges. I touch up edges at least every five rides on a given board. I only do a quick diamond stone treatment then. When conditions require perfectly sharp edges, I do it after every ride...
One thing portrayed to me is that it is better to do a little often to maintain the edge in good shape, then having to do more less often to get it back to good shape.
If you're only using diamond stones and not removing material (which is only made necessary by edge damage), you can tune your edges as much as you like. Everytime you wax, or even more if you like
@@lukedowney8441 from what I'm seeing when tuning them, yes. Possibly 1.2° or so... Doesn't matter. As long as there's a base bevel, you can ride the snowboard. ;-)
12mins 10 secs, a message for manufacturers saying that their boards don't have base bevel..... Great video, simple, but if people follow your clear instructions then 90% of boards with ride better than when they left the factory.
Its possible that they do it on purpose so the buyer can then do whatever they want to the board! BUT that needs to be stated right on the board, and very few people would even understand what they're talking about...
It is stated on the info sheet attached to the board, and their intention is to give a blank sheet to tune to your taste. So I gave it a 1 degree beveled.
8 months in, close to 8.000 views later this video has seemingly helped many people with tuning their edges.
If it changed your world and you want to express your gratitude and support my channel, you can do this here:
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Thank you. This is something that I few tunning shops should watch.
Thank you kindly! :-)
One of the best tuning tutorials I have seen, thank you so much! A few of my boards the manufacturer referenced 0 base bevel - glad you cleared that up!
By far the best video on tuning snowboard edges I have seen so far. Thanks for the help.
@@kosycat1 awesome!! Thank you!! Share the love. There’s a lot more nerd stuff about everything snowboard on my channel. Feel free to support it here, if you want:
buymeacoffee.com/justaride
😎🙏
On the topic of detuning the edge. I come from ski racing, and don't do any detuning to my skis, for many people detuning gives a cushion for error before the edge begins to really grab. For many their boot fit is not tight enough/ they cannot or will not tolerate that tight of a boot, and that impacts control over the board or ski as it rides on edge. Advanced riders with tight fitting boots don't really need to worry about detuning, and as you expressed the edge feels more stable and sharper without it, but it can be to aggressive for beginner riders or those in looser fits. I like to do my detuning (when I do tuning for other people) with a hard gummy stone or a diamond stone (preferably a cheep one that you don't care about because it is hard on them) as detuning with a file is more aggressive than is necessary and takes to long to sharpen back up if you decide that you don't want the detune.
Thanks!
Legend! Thank YOU! My pleasure!!
I also watched the Swix videos and purchased the sidecut ceramic stone as he advises and I had all same questions as you. My dad is a chef and was explaining that it’s the same thing chefs do with a ceramic honing rod on their chef knife’s every day as it isn’t abrasive (technically it’s micro-abrasive) and it simply folds/bends the “burrs” back straight.
When I’m using it on my boards, I dan definitely fold the burrs up with the stone from base edge up to the side edge, and then the diamonds take it right off. It Does seem to work.
Thanks!
Nice one! Thank you!🙏
Soooo nice! I wish this tuto was available to me earlier, I would saved myself lots of mistakes...thank you so much
Thank you very much! Next time will be better ;-)
I would not enphasize enough how important Is to have good and proper sharpened edges for good ridibg. So many people out there ride boards impossible to carve with because of the horrible edges. If i can't trust my edges I start to to get contracted, and my technique messes up,It Is actually a situation where you do not consolidate tour technique, rather you get worse and you get bad feelings that store in tour nerve system , compromising everything. I can carve in Blue ICE with properly tuned edges, and I feel skidding in good snow of the edges are messed up, It makes all the differenze of the world.
Thanks for the video. The high level of detail is great. Love the content.
Jones claims their boards come with a 0 degree base 90 degree edge. They say this is so the rider can decide what they want. If that is true this would mean that a ton of riders are out there riding 0/90 since people who casually ride usually don't bother with ever having their edges sharpened let alone having a tune done.
Like he said, they say that but on the jones boards I have owned, that is not true.
I have yet to tune a Jones board that came from the factory without a base bevel. I’ve owned about 6 myself.
Same on Amplid boards. 0/90 the factory settings, however the 3D shaping in the nose helps a lot.
Thanks for this. I'd also like to see you speak on rust prevention and removal.
Already done! Look into the uploads! :-)
Great 😃 Thanks for the response. I found this refering to using a red scotchbrite pad for removal:
th-cam.com/video/8vJ6CApM5mI/w-d-xo.html
Any other videos in particular for preventitive measures?
@@hellaenergy2454 no other videos. I might check out your link when I have time. Which is never… these days…. 😐
You are seriously the best!
Thanks! There’s better ones, but they don’t share their experience. 😉
Great video Lars, some great tips in there. Thank you.
As was said previously regarding the ceramic it's what I use for deburring my chefs knives. However I generally finish them on a 4000grit stone. For a really fine edge I may use a leather strop and 16000grit for a mirror finish edge (way too much for a snowboard edge unless you want a shave too!). However the idea is the same. What I would say is that the finer/smoother the finished edge the less burr you will have and the key to minimising burr is to use lighter passes along the edge as you go to finer stones/diamonds so more passes but with less pressure is how I would tend to go.
Fantastic pro tips here! Thank you!
Agree with this be the best edge tunning video, the part you said about be light on diamond stones is gold, i never thought about that too much pressure been sending the microbur from one side to the other too much. I have that white sidecut ceramic stone, i will try to use without the guide at the base as you to put the bur on the right place.
Stoked for this one! Before this season started I knew it was time to get more serious about my tuning. I did a ton of research and decided I wanted Sidecut tuning gear. Essentially everything you showed in this video. WOW is it all ever high-quality gear. It makes the whole tuning process enjoyable and I’ve ever had nicer edges Or bases. I also got their brushes, world cup iron (Star), etc. Yea I could have bought 2 snowboards for the price but it’s totally worth it in my opinion.
I also received my first Stranda, a Cheater 170w, last week. Oh man 🤤🤤🤤
You’re basically set! 😂🙌❤️
You did exactly the same what I did. I bought the same Stranda board and the Sidecut tuning tool.
@@magistradox39 haha nice! Hope you’re enjoying it as much as I am. Lars knows what’s up.
Thanks
@@dejandejanov9758 thank you kindly!!
Great video , thank you!!👌🙏👊🏂
Wow, thank you for this video (and all the others).
The idea of using ceramic for deburring is excellent.
I really liked your comments about detuning inside the touchpoint. Because I really thought that it made no sense to do that with aggressive driving. But the people who sharpen in sports centers work on the assembly line for everyone. Without trying to find out if it is the needs of each client.
This is why doing it yourself is the best solution.
Thanks again and have a good season!
Thanks so much!!
Thank you for this! I think I watched the same SWIX clinic about the ceramic stone. Never thought about rounding the nose and tail edges though.... going to try it.
Have you considered doing a wax video? Specifically how to hold the iron and the multiple edges and bevels they have? Once I started I was always overheating the board, but turned the iron up maybe 3-5°C above the wax melting point and that made a difference. Still heats tip and tail more than the rest but usually less material there to disperse heat I assume. But how to hold to iron and get the wax to flow and shift in the direction I want is still a nuance. Maybe the drip method or application quantity is incorrect? Too much or too little wax perhaps? We nerds would love a wax/iron nerd-out video please!
Yeah, I'll do a waxing video sooner or later. There's my storage wax video already from last spring, which has some stuff in it.
Hi Lars, can you give some advice about how to correctly tune the side edge of a splitboard with some kind of magnetraction technology? Thanks for your help and amazing channel !!!
Same as in the video!
Great video! I have always taken my boards to the shop to get tuned but I want to start doing it myself from now on.
I have a Capita BSOD that I absolutely love. Capita states that all their boards come with a 1.5° base bevel and 88.5° side, making it 90° in total. This has been working great for me but it's quite hard to find guides for half degrees. Some adjustable guides seem to be able to do it but I'm not sure if those are any good. I also don't fully trust that the edges actually are what Capita states. What kind of a difference would it make to how the board rides if I were to change it from 1.5°/88.5° to 2°/88°?
Would you recommend getting adjustable file guides before I figure out what exactly are the angles I actually want? I ride pretty much all mountain. Love to carve, love to jump, love to hit the park. Not exactly great in any of them though. 😄
Sorry for the long ramble. Thank you for the great content! ☕
Sidecut tools make a 1.5 degree plastic bevel for cheap. Otherwise, standard is 1° and the higher you go, the lazier the board engages turns, which is preference and not always a bad thing. You won't ruin anything. It can all be fixe, if you don't like it.
Hey Lars,
This is by far the best tuning video I’ve seen-hope the channel gets tons of subs!
You mentioned starting with a gummy stone for detuning since files can be too aggressive. Could a diamond stone work instead? I have a dual-sided one (325 grit/600 grit) with a handle, and it seems like a good option.
For Magne-Traction, if I’m detuning the main contact points, should I also lightly detune the individual peaks along the edge for a couple of inches?
Thanks for the great content!
Yeah, fine diamond can work for detune. No, don't worry about the magnetraction peaks.
Thanks for the support and compliment!!!! :-)
Just starting the vid, looks very useful so far! Nicholas at Korua had a cheap sidewall trimming trick using the handle of his file in his tuning vid to scrape it down. Wondering what the pitfalls are for messing up your side wall?
It can become kinda rutted and not smooth. It's not the end of the world, but looks terrible and drags in the snow. I've seen his video, actually! Good little tip.
Thank you, very detailed explanation! How to deal with very damaged base bevels? Do I need to cut it until groves are not visible or just remove burst?
Get a base grind done from an experienced shop.
Thank you
Another cracking video, thank you Lars! I came for the detune tips and found the post contact point rounding explanation really helpful.
I have a new Biru which I will be hitting the slopes with for the first time on Saturday. Aside from maybe detuning the nose and tail do you have any other Stranda/Biru specific tips? Should I get it in for a wax ASAP? I couldn't find any info on the Stranda site as to factory wax quality etc.
Thanks man!! Yes, wax that board.... Ideally twice, haha! Factory wax is mostly applied with a quick hot wax roll. It doesn't get ironed in properly, so a high end base like the one on the Biru is by no means saturated. You don't HAVE TO wax it instantly, but personally I'd highly recommend that.
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel very good to know, thank you!
Great tutorial! For detuning, you marked the start (left) and end (right) of the contact point with a sharpie. Generally to detune should I only round the edge starting at the end of the contact patch? In the video it sounded like there are times when you would start detuning at the start of the contact point. I would expect that you would want a sharp contact point normally, right?
Depends on the rider and the board. I do want a sharp contact point. Less experienced riders can benefit from a board that engages turns less aggressively, so detuned contact points are better there. Given it's a full camber board, which doesn't really exist anymore, haha... With early rise boards I think it's fine to just keep the whole effective edge sharp. Maybe to disengage the edge a little detune might help some people.
Thank you for this video, very informative. I guess I have one of those boards without base bevel at home. My wife's Lib Tech Cortado, bought this year. She was riding it the whole week and did not complain. I don't get it :)
Interesting!! Did you check it, or is that an assumption?
Without meaning to diss Mervin, their factory edge tune is one of the worst in the industry. It never bothered me, as I'd just fix that... But yeah, I wouldn't be overly surprised to hear that they forgot the base bevel or simply don't apply one. But then again, it is also very possible that it's a one-off!! These things do happen.
Luckily it's a rocker board! Hahaha... :-)
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel Yeah, I did check. I put a straight object agains the base of the board and egde touches it on the whole width. But now I have knowledge - thank you - how to fix it. I will practice on my old boad first ;)
Another great video! Do you have any tips for sharpening edges with magnatraction? I'm considering buy a board with it.
Hi and thank you!
You need to insert the file into the sharpening guide at an angle that makes the contact patch of the file on the edge very short. That's not very efficient filing, but that's what you need to do.
IMO if the magnetr. is so much that using a normal file is not possible, it has been overdone. I personally don't like boards like that. They're too grabby and dig into the snow too deep...
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel Thanks that's good too know!!
I'll slowly work myself up to that $1000 tuning gear. For now I'll stick with my sub $100 waxing kit and sub $100 sharpening kit. Old used boards do need some love.
Knife sharpeners (razor Blades) use for the Finish also lether and Paste...
I use Just leather... Just for the fun, but it helps to feal good about the tuning ;-)
There's this tool (vola mini blade ceramic) that totally changed the finishing quality . You should try it. Finishing with this is fast and much better quality then without. From my experience , using oil or water is useless as the diamonds are less active and you have to pass more times for the same action. Just loose time for the same wear and tear of the tools.
Great info!! Thank you!
I dont know but I would assume that the diamond and ceramic stones work the same way that knife sharpening stones work. I was told that the fine grit ceramic stones only polish the edge and doesent really affect on the sharpness of the blade, they only make it cut smoother.
If you put an edge of a knife under a microscope you can see it looks like a serrated edge, the finer you go on stones the smaller the serrations become and the smoother your knife cuts.
I would assume its the same deal with snowboard and ski edges as you are basicly doing the same thing but with diffrent angels.
Hope this makes some sense to you.
Thanks for the great content!
- Janne
Absolutely correct!!
Thanks for chiming in!!
Very informative as always, thank you for posting. Some boards (like many of the Jones lineup) have three subtle bumps in the side cut. Would this change your technique or would you have any specific recommendations to sharpen these boards?
All the same. If the bumps are too deep to get a file in there, you'll need to insert the file into the tool at an angle that minimizes file surface touching edge. Jones is fine. Mervin boards often need that, and Rossignol.
That's all. Good luck!!
Had no idea my boards had a base bevel. The more I know (thanks to your channel) the more I realize I probably don’t know. Now that I know, I can’t help but wonder if an annual ski tune with those machines they use as ski shops (which I will probably never use again) would tend to remove that bevel over time? Or would it be just if they set the machine to base grind?
Those machines automatically add a new base bevel after a base grind!! No need to worry.
That being said, there's always operator error.... So if your ski is overly 'grabby' after a tune, you might not have enough bevel. Those modern tuning robots do a pretty good job when adjusted and operated well.
@ That’s pretty cool! How does the “tech” running the machine know what the base bevel was? Or can you pretty much expect its coming back out as 1 degree?
@@peterjmcgowan programmed settings. But the machines need to get serviced and calibrated. That is the single biggest culprit for bad tunes... A tech needs to check in intervals whether the results are still within the acceptable tolerances.
Lars, went ahead and followed your Board Butter link in the description to supplies (assuming/hoping that’s an affiliate link). Was about to do same with Sidecut but noticed you pop up an email address to order Sidecut stuff through you, is that still the thing to do?
@@peterjmcgowan that is the thing to do! Email
me. Board Butter is not an affiliate thing yet. All good.
Maybe I missed it, but how often are you using just diamonds stones vs using files? I'm assuming you use diamond stones every few runs or so, depending on conditions. Where/when do you decide to step up the abrasion and use files? Great video btw, subbed.
Great question!!
If I get actual edge damage from hitting rocks, I use files. If I want to actually change the edge angle, I use files. Otherwise a 200 grit diamond to start is all it needs. Go down to 400 and 600, and your edges are like new again without needing files.
Depending on conditions I do a diamond touch up every day or sometimes every three days of riding the same board. I definitely do it before every wax, which can sometimes also be every day.... Takes three minutes.... why not?! :-)
One nerdy thing not adding much to the 1000 dollar equipment is the super thin base tape which should be applied on the base along the edge before running over it with the bevel guide. The bevel guide is gliding on the tape not on the waxed base.
Second remark would be to use a paint brush to clean the metal files after each run through.
I've experimented with the tape and didn't like it. But yes, good point.
I clean files with a brass brush after the whole board has been done.
Yeah, one could do that after every pass... but man.....
What grit aluminum oxide stone do you use? Looking at picking one up. Thank you for the great video! (Capita edges per online, 1.5° for both the base and side bevel, with an overall angle geometry of 90°.) having trouble finding a 1.5° edge tuner.
@@adam_s836 sidecut makes one! Cheap!! Aluminum oxide stone that I use doesn’t have a number for grit. Sorry.
@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel all good, thank you again 🙏 awesome video
@@Justaride-Snowboard-ChannelDo you have a link or can you suggest a place to pick up one of these aluminum oxide stones? Can't seem to find anything other than for sharpening knives.
@ sorry, no links or info. 😐
When you're setting the base bevel, should you be scraping off a bit of base material as well or only the metal edge?
Ideally only the edge. In Boarder Cross and banked slalom it’s beneficial to file a higher angle into the base to n the tips of the board for a less grabby board entering berms. Insider tip!! 😎😉
After watching your video, i was wondering if you ever trie different base or edge angle on the heel side vs toe side, to do similar as asymetric side cut, to have more or less grip on the heel side?
Never! I believe that the rider creates the grip! Anything asym is there to help with heel turns, because they're so much harder due to the way the body is made... It's never been for me. The tight heel radii on those boards always threw me off. Great question!!
Hey @Justaride-Snowboard-Channel (Lars), Thanks for such a detailed video. I am motivated to get my tuning setup dialed in and stop paying for this work. I have a question for you. My daily ride is a Burton Custom X 162 EST. I ride medium Cartel X bindings, front +25 x rear -15. Probably more info than necessary for this question, but thats my setup.
OK, I put a wonder bar on my board and I was really surprised to find that it was consistently base low (concave) through the entire effective edge. I tried looking on Burtons site but they don't mention anything about base shape edge to edge. From a tuning standpoint, should the base angle adjusted in any way to account for the cupped board? Is this odd that it is concave? Any thoughts would be super appreciated.
With Great Respect,
Soames
Good luck with Burton and base flatness!! If you ever find a flat Burton, let me know and immediately buy it and lock it away: it’s gonna be a unicorn! 😂
Channel causes dramatic base suction under the bindings. You suck the entire I-beam aluminum channel towards the top sheet. Can you tell that I think it’s the worst design? Yes! That’s what I think. Haha.. 😅 Sorry, absolutely nothing you can do about this!
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel I kinda figured this was going to be your reply. I have been riding Burton kit for so long, but it might be time to start thinking about a change. Happy Holidays Lars, have a great winter.
@@SoamesHaworthOfficial you too and thanks for the coffee!! :-)
Great video! I won't let anyone put my board in those pesky tuning machines, so i will definitely use it. How do you decide on the right edge degree? I am intermediate, ride allmountain on groomers, flat top board.
Depends on your conditions and what you want.... and on board width... Boards relatively wide compared to your foot can have a greater base bevel to get them on edge easier.... Hard question to answer.
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel Well thanks for trying! But just to be sure: I wanted to ask about the edge angle - the thing that you are talking about at 16:30 of the video (88° on the board you are tuning), not the base bevel angle (I am way too inexperienced to mess with that!). I hope it's an easier thing to explain to a tuning newbie.
Conditions and what I want: early spring, riding on groomers, just progressing and learning new things, including the basics of carving. From my edge I want control and grip. Board is relatively narrow compared to my foot. I am not quite sure what physics are behind the edge angles, what changes if I go 90°/89°/88°?
@@Antrios93 88 is performance carving, 89 is a little less sharp, less aggressive and more suitable for a less experienced all round rider. 90 is IMO somewhat nonsense, considering that the base is at 1°... which makes it a pretty dull edge overall.
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel Thank you for sharing all that knowledge! You are a snowboard world's treasure
@@Antrios93 hahaha, well... thank you! There are much greater treasures out there ;-)
Tuning before I wax my boards for the season. Now I’m wondering after about how many days of riding do you like to touch up the edges? And what stones do you use when touching up during the season?
All depends on conditions and how nice of an edge I want. And on edge damage…. If it’s burred I go 200/400/600/1000. If it’s not burred, I start at the 400…. Sometimes after every ride. Sometimes after three, four days…
@ awesome, thank you for still actively answering questions on a video from quite a while ago!
@ that’ll be me until TH-cam burns down… 😅🤙
Regarding the side wall remover. I always had the impression that when you file the side edge and the edge is already on the same level like the sidewall, and then you file the edge you obviously remove/file the side wall anyway? Of course you will have some plastics on the file, but this can be cleaned.
Depends on the sidewall material.... Mostly it starts messing with your file touching the edge. I have hardly seen it any other way. You can tell when your file just slides along without cutting...
Edge degree, can we maybe have a video on this specifically? You mentioned setting your edge to 88 degrees. You also said this in your free carver vs cheeta video but said it wasnt the best choice for that day.
So what degree and why?
I see sidecut sells these tools in 91-95 degree. I feel like im missing something. Also how do you feel about the plastic adjustable edge degree tools?
Fantastic video by the way!!
@@UncIe_Drew thanks!
So what I meant in the video was that my work was for nothing….. The soft conditions didn’t require the grip of 88° edges at all. However, no harm in having them.
In regards to the angles: 2°, 88° and 92° are all the same thing, depending on which side of the angle you’re measuring! 😎 Hope that makes sense. If you’re in North America, you can get Sidecut through me. 👍
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel ok that does make sense. So 90 degree edge angle why or why not? Asking this because I saw jones lists their edges all being 90 degree. I chose jones because of your edge bevel comments. Is 90 degree just a standard factory angle?
I may want to take you up on getting some sidecut tools. Still figuring out what I want/need. I won't be buying a set of edge angle file guides. So I'm trying to figure what 1 or 2 I may want to purchase.
@@UncIe_Drew 90° is great when you want a highly durable edge and don’t want much ‘bite’. 89° should be factory standard. 90° is also great for tuners!! It’s neutral. It hasn’t been ‘messed with’. You can start from fresh.
Personally I’d never ride 90. Sidecut don’t even make a tool for that. I’m a way it’s an untuned edge, although it can be sharp and meticulous.
89° is good for most applications. 88° is needed when conditions get very firm. All depends on your predominant riding conditions, desired ride feel and ability level.
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel Thank you, that was the info I needed!
Sidecut sells file guides 91 to 95 degrees. I'm assuming 88 degrees in your video would be 92 degrees using their tool? Keep up the great content!
100% correct! Some people call it 1° or 2°.
Thank you for the great content you share with us. I have some doubts when you mention how to remove rock damage with the aluminum oxide stone. If I have been freeriding often the base of the edge is full of damage. When the damage is slightly deep if I try to remove completly the damage it will wear out a lot of edge. Is this inevitable or in this kind of situation you let some of the damage in the edge? Also I have the question because you mention that the less we work on the base bevel the better. I recently bought the Stranda Cheater. I hope I use it for the first time this week.
When there's material missing in the edge, you can't fix that without a deep grind. So at that stage I accept it and simply remove anything that is sticking out and would damage my iron. Freeriding means rock damage.... it is what it is... :-)
Stranda Cheater comes with 1° base bevel. Great board!!!
Yeah you don’t remove to low spots, you remove the high spots.
Where do you get your aluminum oxide stones from? Looking for a cheap source!
Tough one..... I order directly from tuning suppliers, because I have that tuning business... Not sure who has those, sorry!! Local ski shop??
Thanks for the video! Jones claims all of their boards are 0/90 from the factory, do you have any experience with what are the actual angles they come with then? Do you think boards with 3d spooning can be ridden fine with 0 base bevel due to spoon acting as a base bevel effectively?
Ask them. Trust me, it’s not 0°. Some office person wrote that… not Jeremy. It’s impossible!
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel I just messaged them because I thought this was interesting too. On their site they say it's at 0 so you can do whatever you want to it, which makes a certain kind of sense. I'll post again on here when they get back to me.
Per usual, super stoked to see another of your videos Lars, really helping me take my boarding to the next level!
@@nicodemus1828384 Aahhh! Okay! THAT is an entirely different story!!
If the company chooses to do it that wat, that's great! BUT they HAVE TO TELL customers about it right on every snowboard with a big exclamation mark! :-)
I think it's a great approach. But very few people even understand what to do from there....
In the comments of some other video on this channel I reported what I measured on two Jones Freecarvers right out of wrapper with the sharpie method and proper file guides - one was 89/1 and the other 88/2.
@@elho001 Yup!! Love tis story! Again! :-)
will gummy stones do same thing as the aluminum oxide stones?
@@ekramhossain1982 no. Gummies are soft and are used to remove the very last micro burr after an edge tune. They can also work for surface rust removal. Aluminum oxide stones are hard and are used as step one: removing case hardening, aka rock damage to the edge. Doing that step with a gummy will simply ruin it without any change to the edge.
What do you think of the Tools 4 Boards Rolling Pin system for sharpening?
Not sure I’m familiar.
Tnks you so much for this tutorial!!! Just a question, I have two Stranda boards (Cheater and Shorty) Can I use 2° for both? I have just to polish with diamond stone to keep the edge sharpe? I don't know wich angle is set-up from manufacture. Tnks
You should do a tune in your desired angle and from then on touch up with the same tool and a diamond stone. Factory is 88°, but it’s never 100% accurate.
Would even a 240 grit diamond stone get damaged by case hardening? If so, What coarse is the aluminium oxide stone? Will a knife sharpening block do? Hard to find a small one like that.
240 should work. Many passes, little pressure.
Got my board back from a service with more dull edges than before :S having to learn how to do it myself. Tbh, it’s all rather confusing.i thought we were suppose to discard the aggressive files and stick just to diamond stones? Is there a simple version of this video for the core essentials? I’m kind of paranoid now of accidentally altering the base edge when deburring. I was planning to use gummy stones for rust and burrs then diamond stones in a tool for the sharpening.
Sorry, no simple fix. It would take 20 times of deburring to alter the base bevel to a significant degree. Just be gentle. Doing edges well is not a simple thing. Doing them badly, however, can be done in minutes.
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel thanks, appreciated
what do you do for boards with magna traction?
Insert the file into the guide with the shortest possible contact patch on the edge... Tricky, inefficient.... Just don't buy Magnetraction! It's silly... Video coming at some point! ;-)
Jone's Snowboards state that their factory side and base edge angles are 90 and 0 respectively. I ride a Freecarver 6000s, and it looks to have a base bevel. Have you had any experience with Jone's boards? I don't have a gauge so its a bit hard to tell.
@@MrBlerg my channel was a full of jones base bevel videos. They all have one. Just over 1°. Another video coming soon that mentions this.
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel Ah, just went through those videos. Thanks for the info! Cheers!
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel Another question, I've been watching through some of SideCuts videos, have you needed to remove the topsheet of a snowboard?
@ never!
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel gotcha, thanks! So I suppose it is more of a ski tune item then.
And what about side bevel, because if you need to tune your edge of the board that has both base and side bevel of 1 degree it seems that you should use to the 88 degree file guide to have final 89 edge? What about different boards, is it common to have both base side bevel, like Capita claims?
@@sergeyp6465 correct on point 1! In point two I don’t understand he question. Every board’s edges have two sides to be tuned, base and side edge.
thank you for an incredibly helpful video. i have the nitro woodcarver and i can't figure out the base angle. customer service says it's zero degrees but per your pt, that's not the case. tried the sharpie test and didn't come off at one degree and am afraid to go further so as not to detune. any idea what the base angle is? thanks a million.
If it didn't come off at 1°, it is greater than 1°... That is unfortunately all I can say.
If it's greater than 1 degree is that possible that the factory base angle could be greater than 1? thank you, aagain. @@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel
@@JP-zy1mt well, yes, of course.
what i mean is in your experience have you seen nitro or other boards come from factory with an 86 degree base angle? thank you, aagin. @@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel
@@JP-zy1mt that doesn’t exist. What do mean???
How often do you suggest sharpen your side edges?
As often as you think it needs it...
Depends on how and where you right in what conditions....
Edges wear out, as in: become dull. Riding firm slopes accelerates that.
It really is up to you. I do it a lot.... I carve a lot... :-) Like, at least after every five rides on any given board, likely more often. Just a quick touch up with diamond stones.
What are your thoughts on the way Salomon tunes their edges. They say 1 degree in the tip and tail, and 2 between the feet. I can’t imagine the point of that.
And that is regarding the base bevel?? Yeah, in that case that would be a bit weird.
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel it says 1 degree bevel and 2 degrees between the feet. I always assumed they meant base but yeah it would make sense if they were talking edge i guess.
really nice video on snowboard tuning!
whats your take on sharpening magnetraction boards? would you do anything different?
The key is to insert the file into the file guide in a way that makes for only a short section of the file touching the edge. That's a matter of the angle and depth at which you insert the file. If the file section that actually cuts is too long, you won't get in between the magnetraction bumps.
Especially with the older, more aggressive magne traction, you may have to go completely sideways, ie. 90 degrees to the guide - which obviously only works for diamond stones, not metal files.
Other than that, there also is the SKS Swing-Cut tool. It works great for the side edge, there is tungsten hard metal file bits for it that cuts through the steel edge like butter and even a hard sidewall. Drawback is the limited selection of matching diamond stones that take longer to change then with a file guide.
Say my snowboard has a factory side bevel of 1.5. What happens if I use a tool that does 2 degree? The board will be sharper and have better grip?
@@ekramhossain1982 correct. 1.5 is not a thing though. It’s 1 or 2… On the base edge those half numbers are more common.
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel Hmmmm...........I emailed Ride and they replied saying all their sintered base boards are 1.5 deg for both base and side!! I will agree with you though as it is very hard to find a tool that does 1.5!
@@ekramhossain1982 best tip I can give you: don't overthink it! 🙂Who says that one needs to ride the factory tune?? I hardly ever do after all.... the factory has almost always weird inaccuracies. So I always tune right out of the wrapper.
But I'm a crazy person!! :-)
@@ekramhossain1982 That's what they told me as well. I didn't mess with the base, but I did change the edge to 88. Figure when it's time for a base grind I will reset the base bevel to 1
I am experiencing confusion, hoping the community can help out. my wife and I have some new boards and I am going to start waxing and keeping our edges sharp. The confusion is that I'm also getting told to leave the edges of the snow board alone all I want to do is keep a crisp edge not change the angle or any of that. We board in Tahoe CA area our snow is more often icy or in spring slushy. should I be maintaining the edge sharpness or it is not needed?
100% learn to tune your edges. Utter nonsense not to. Have fun doing it and enjoy the benefits of a smooth and sharp edge!
Last couple minutes of your video, pity you went so fast as I almost missed it! If it’s 1 degree base then 89 degree side will give you a 90 degree edge. So you sort of need to know your base bevel first. Just having at it with an 88 degree side bevel tool from the interweb might not actually be giving you an 88 degree edge?
It never does, because you shouldn't ever ride with zero base bevel!!
@ LOL Yes, I totally get that now. The thing I didn’t get, and I wonder if I’m not alone, is for years I was using an 89 side bevel thinking that’s what my edge bevel was! But, that’s not the same thing at all…
How do I clean up scratches on my base edge?
If you want it fully cleaned up, you will need a base grind with a machine... By hand you can only remove the high spots, not the low spots.
Does Buru have 89 degree side by default? asking because I got one recently and planning to tune it soon
88° on Strandas!
How often should you sharpen edges in season?
Depends on how often you ride, what conditions you ride in and how much you prioritize sharp edges. I touch up edges at least every five rides on a given board. I only do a quick diamond stone treatment then. When conditions require perfectly sharp edges, I do it after every ride...
One thing portrayed to me is that it is better to do a little often to maintain the edge in good shape, then having to do more less often to get it back to good shape.
If you're only using diamond stones and not removing material (which is only made necessary by edge damage), you can tune your edges as much as you like. Everytime you wax, or even more if you like
Both Jones and Never Summer state: 90°/0° on the base.
Well, Jones are clearly wrong. Never tuned a new NS board, but many Jones's.
@@Justaride-Snowboard-Channel that's good to know. It didn't make much sense to me.
Are Jones boards 1 degree?
@@lukedowney8441 from what I'm seeing when tuning them, yes. Possibly 1.2° or so... Doesn't matter. As long as there's a base bevel, you can ride the snowboard. ;-)
12mins 10 secs, a message for manufacturers saying that their boards don't have base bevel.....
Great video, simple, but if people follow your clear instructions then 90% of boards with ride better than when they left the factory.
Thanks Mike! That’s the goal! 🙌
I just want to remind people to do the youtube stuff: Like, Comment, Subscribe!
Endeavor have 0 degree base bevel out of the factory. I’ve taken my brand new board to my local tuner for a 1/2 edge tune.
Slight mistake at 11:46 - actually, we are big nerds! 😂
Can you believe that my Amplid Big Kahuna came with no beveled ! 90 / 90 !!!! Big disappointment !
Did you check, or did they say that?
Its possible that they do it on purpose so the buyer can then do whatever they want to the board! BUT that needs to be stated right on the board, and very few people would even understand what they're talking about...
It is stated on the info sheet attached to the board, and their intention is to give a blank sheet to tune to your taste. So I gave it a 1 degree beveled.
Thanks!
Thank you! That is very kind of you!!