I 3D Printed RC Car Tires... Will they survive???
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.พ. 2025
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As always, we have to praise the cameraman for standing on top of the RC car and recording for us.
that camera man name is gopro
For your tires, you should try the Fuzzy Skin setting (if you use cura). I've printed things in polymaker TPU that are extremely slippery normally, but have much better grip with the Fuzzy skin setting enabled. I'd imagine that VarioShore would have even better results.
Great idea! Also Fuzzy is now available in Prusa and Orca slicers as well!
Also just making slicks with a bit softer carcass to dampen the bumps a bit more (or just softer suspention).
I don't know how to spell it in English, but tyres need to be more flat, or without the lines, like formula 1 tyres that don't have any lines or marks in the tyres, something like flat tyres? Or totally smooth tyres.
Edit: you can also try adding a downward pointing spoiler, check out Pagani's spoiler system, or Bugatti, switch out the GoPro for a more streamlined camera, or make a full ramp carcass like a batmobile, and put the camera there, that way you will get more aerodynamic.
Try using TPE for 3D printing tires. It's better than TPU
Thanks, i had nothing but problems with grip when printing tires.
whats happening at high speed is ur rear wheels are loosing grip so u spin ur tires and loose control a rear wing but dont go too overboard on the rear downforce cuz then the front wheels will lack grip from the balance being moved. hope this helped and made sense :)
How about a wing mounted high at the middle of the car like those old f1 cars?
@@islam1337simobad center of gravity and more unstable
@@islam1337simo Undebody downforce would probably be better for that.
@@Litl_Skitl I agree. What an elegant solution.
If you really want to make sense, I suggest using proper language. Not your kind of semi jungle babble.
I've got four FDM printers and I've just never seen a reason to pick up a resin. I think you may have finally opened that door for me. Interesting build, subbed
You'll need a place outside of your living area to use it. Those resins stink!!!
@@iandrake4683 not only do they stink, they're also unhealthy as fuck. They WILL fuck you up long term.
Toxic fumes, cleaning with the wash station. No thanks. FDM is fine for me.
Well to be fair he didn't have 100% infill.
Resin printing is the messiest thing I've ever done. I would watch some videos showing the actual entire process. It's time consuming and like I said a MESS
Honestly the instability looks more like a suspension geometry issue to me.
Most RC cars will run a substantial amount of toe in on the rear.
I think this may help with your stability problems.
Precisely the issue I think. I used to race a lot of 1/10th scale cars at close to a professional level. Top speed maybe more like 30mph most of the time as acceleration was more important, but they were very stable. Toe in on the rear wheels, better suspension damping, and balanced weight/downforce should help a lot.
Use nitro rc antenna tubes cut to size over your rear suspension rod to limit squatting under load
@@pierholtrop5432 squatting isnt an issue at all, in fact the rc car is too darn light, actually every rc car is way too light to make the suspension act like a real car. squatting isnt bad, its the fact that the car spins out under high acceleration, which is a grip and a weight disribution problem
For stability a bit of toe in on the rear and neutral in the front would help. You already have positive caster in the front, that also provides more stability. If speed is the goal then a longer wheelbase also helps. And with a RWD car you also want to have the weight near the rear axle. RWD buggies often have the motor behind the axle to provide optimal weight distribution for that setup. And a common misconception regarding aero: you don't want that much downforce when going for speed, you want stability. So fins are a good idea, flat underbelly and a bit of rake to keep the car stable. When using wings you basically are putting variable levers on the front and back - especially bad if you go over bumpy-ish surfaces at speed. If you want to see what the results of bad aerodynamic balance can be: google Peter Dumbrecks Le Mans sommersault from 1997...
Thanks!
I love how Scarlet Fire goes so well with abusing plastics 🥰
YEAH DANKPODS RAHHHHHH
My 7 year old son loved this video and can't wait to see where this project is going.
Brilliant work, Michael! Really well done! 😃
Your sponsor has 3d printing with metal, also CNC I believe... I don't know, perhaps it could be a good idea for some parts. 😉
Other than that... Looking forward to the 4x4 version!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
It would not be "3d printed" anymore. Also, metal is not good absorbing the impacts and would make other plastic parts break easier.
@@xxGmon3yxx you can actually 3d print with metal powder. Its called powder bed fusion and there also are other methods
3d printing the hubs and placing them in a mold for silicon casting is something I've seen a couple other people do but I'm not sure they would work at the high speeds you're aiming for. Great work so far and I'm definitely interested in seeing more done with the gyro!
For the redesigned car, I have a couple of suggestions. Make it lower, so that you can incorporate an undertray and diffuser for more downforce to help with stability at speed. You can get little gyroscope modules (some rc cars actually come with them) that connect to the steering servo and can countersteer when they detect the car changing direction without the driver's input.
To incorporate a gyro effectively you need advanced software. It is a seemlingly easy thing but a soon as you get to sensor fusion it is some serious black magic fuckery :D Easier would be to use a little toe in on the front wheels by lengthening the steering rod a little.
@@vubito3245 my understanding is that the gyro modules made for rc cars are pretty plug and play, and you only have to tune how aggressively it countersteers so you don't get oscillations.
I saw your other vidoe first, and the way you take comments into account is great!! Keep up the work you totally got this
dont get demotivated... i think you are really on the right way to make your 100 mph! just stay focused and improve your desings over and over and in the end you will reach your goal! like jimmy cliff said: you can get it, if you really want! 😄
Hi Michael, I've recently uploaded my own 3D printed RC car to printables. Im hoping I can reach at least 60mph when my new longer range radio arrives. The design of the drivetrain is similar to the Tarmo5 and Tarmo4. A video of it and link are on my youtube page
I love your videos about the 3D printed Car!!! I neeeed the next parts please
Dude, so well done, it's very impressive! Switch to FPV sooner than later, that will help. The gradual reduction in steering with speed is a must, you are oversteering now at high speeds. The car seems to float / airlift at high speeds, which is def an aerodynamic issue. Add those wings. Get inspiration from the new Ducati Streetfighter wings. Lower the COG if you can. It feels like the COG is still very high, sitting well above the wheels. Largers wheels would allow your COG to sit *below* wheel level. Just tips :)
Cool stuff! Subscribed and following this Project. Can't wait to see V3!
4wd is definitely the answer, tried making my rc car 2wd, was completely uncontrollable!!
I looked a dude .aking a 1:24 scale 2WD car that went about 100 kmh.
@@CENREAPER-YT did he use gyro?
Running a noble nb4 with servo delay or a perfect pass will work as a pseudo traction control as well if using a 2wd in a drag style speed test.
@@EngineeringAfterHours yeh i know Raz makes some pretty incredible stuff, cant say im much into rc cars. Have a wltoys a979 or somethin which is really bad as 2wd. But of course there are many factors such as toe, camber, caster, tyres, motors and even acceleration control for achieving stable driving.
@@filippus_ No. He ran them for 10-20 meters to test it out and they will (most of the time) crash.
3:17 absolute dankpods moment, we love to hear Scarlet Fire
Please look at this comment:
1. You should get a better wheel and cover them because most of the friction takes place in the wheels.
2. In your first video you shortened the width ( I think it was from 11 to 9 inches). This actually makes it less stable.
3. Get a better speed controller and electric motor. The 2 LiPo batteries are overload for that small motor.
4. The suspension is not enough. A small (if possible hydraulic) shock absorber with it would soften the ride.
5. The gyro can sometimes mess up with how you control the car. You should definitely fine tune it.
6. The chassis should be closer to the ground. This can maybe damage the car if the road is bumpy, but it really helps with steering.
7. If possible use metal shafts and gears (so it would be stronger and easier to lubricate).
That is all. Please consider my advice and comment...
Maybe go with a simpler car? The fastest "on road" RC cars often have a solid rear axle, foam tires, chassis flex rear suspension and king-pin front suspension. They're more of a tiny go-cart than a scaled down car.
Very entertaining to watch. Excited for the next vid
Daaaaaamn im actually loving this project. Easy sub
Jumping in the comments not having seen the earlier design-phase content. The stability issue you're having looks very familiar to a chassis I was trying to tune for stable higher speeds. I learned a lot, but mostly that my square alignment was my downfall; after dialing a small amount of Toe-In on the rear wheels I was able to track straight at speed.
I also learned something that had plagued me for years, and it was renewed when I saw your aero add-ons: downforce has to be balanced front and rear. Go put a fat guy on your rear bumper, and the nose lifts. Plop fatso on your front bumper, the rear goes skyward. It's not or ever has been "putting the wing above the non-drive wheels on your Civic hhaha", but without a splitter, that Giant Wang is kinda harmful. Neat.
1)Try balancing the wheels dynamically if you are 3d printing them
2)For the aero try a rear wing similar to the GT cars but don't go overboard with that.
3)For higher speeds u need front grip as well so what u can do is underbody downforce (again not too much of it or the car will bottom out if the suspension decides to give up).What u will need to do is accelerate the air under the car using some sort of ducting(not so sure abt this)
4)U will probably need some sideskirts too that would prevent the air from rushing in from the sides
5)Try to cover the wheels in the aero too
I would say to add more weight to the car, especially to the rear end to increace rear end traction. You could add a spoiler to the front to get some downforce or just let the rear end do the steering and aceleration.
I too have done a little 3D printing for my rc car. I made a big spoiler similar to this one and a battery holder to hold two batteries at a time. I was working on a front splitter but had to leave my printer in Missouri 10 hours away.
Something that helps with stability is making the vehicle wider, not longer. At least if you’re aiming for high speeds.
It was great seeing you at open sauce!
2:12 I feel you brother, I don't like getting up early either. For some reason we humans decided our day starts 3 hours after sunrise in summer, while early mornings feel so pristine.
Well, you do want to get home at a reasonable time, correct?
@@DigitalConfusion1 That's the point isn't it, what is a reasonable time? If right now an average adult sleeps between 12 and 8, why can't we simply change that to 10 till 6?
@petertimowreef9085 Please seek help.
@@DigitalConfusion1 Why be rude?
hey, just a small PSA; if theres anyone in the path of the car that could get hit by it, dont drive the car. in the one clip with the biker you shouldve stayed on the side of the road untill he passed
I am hooked, great project! I wanna give this a try now
longer and wider wheelbase would be a must as it will hug the ground more and cause less wobble at high speeds
Add big vertical stabilizers to the back of the car. Same as on airplanes, they keep the car stable at high speeds.
since you already have all the electronics and stuff i'd recommend to just print the robak 2.2 or proto36. Doesn't take you any designing time, just printing/assembly and it may just allow you to get some ideas and close in on 100mph without any effort.
Some suggestions :
Don't focus all that much on 4WD, because it comes with it's own set of issues when you're building your own car. Instead,
1. Get a body on the car, specifically those 'speedrun' bodies you see on speedrun RC cars, just search on yt and you'll find them
2. Lower the ground clearance by a significant bit
3. Use softer suspension
4. I'd say, for 100mph, you might need a more powerful ESC and motor so maybe consider getting something else ( Recommended, a Castle system or a TP motor with a reputable ESC )
5. Warm up your tires a bit before speedrunning
Some other recommendations/ideas,
if you're still unable to reach 100mph, you could try making it 4wd
Not 100% sure but I think it might be a good idea to upgrade the base/chassis of the car to something less brittle like metal, I guess to stay within the rules you'd have to custom make it but I think you should consider it, because at 80+ mph, one proper crash and everything will be in pieces and you will need to spend a lot of money to replace the broken parts, which there will be many
You don't necessarily have to work your way *really* slowly until 25mph, it's more when you're going at higher speeds, you've got to worry about that.
Subbed, your videos are professional and you deserve a lot of subs, I don't subscribe to anybody easily and that basically means that your videos are great!
Hey Micheal, I think you need to redesign your steering system. If you pause the video at 4:45 the right wheel has extremely more steering angle than the left wheel, which may be causing an instability while driving. I do t k ow if you covered this in a different video because this just popped up on my recommend 😅
When is part 3?
Something I haven't seen people try to build a car with in wheel motors. Independent motors in two rear wheels would be pretty sweet.
I have printed the same car, but I have changed almost every part. The highest I got is 60mph on a 4S battery.
The biggest changes I made is, bigger shocks, changed the angle of the suspensions, I extended the chassis 50mm, made everything super tight because a lot of the tolerances were way off and sloppy.
yeah making it tight may do the thing. I think the tarmo5 as shown in these videos is super unstable on the road. I own robak and it's very different.
one thing to help with the aerodynamics would be to make the center of mass closer to the ground (make the suspension ride lower).
this would also help with the handling.
I can see that your car is pretty high, what I would suggest is smaller shocks and have oil on them so the bounce isn’t a problem. 4wd is a clear requirement for achieving over 100MPH since with Rwd no tire has enough grip or is wide enough to sustain those speeds. I suggest you look into some 4WD chassis that big Rc companies make like the Traxxas 4tec 2.0 or 4tec 3.0. I have a 4tec 2.0 and grip with how the platform is made has become and issue. I’ll suggest that you fit all the electronics on one side and the battery on the other side to balance the weight of the car. Why not put it on the middle? Well the driveshaft has to be in the middle and even though you could put everything on top it would affect a lot on aerodynamics. If you do go with a similar design than the 4tec 2.0 or 4tec 3.0 make sure to build some body mounts on the same spots as on the real thing so bodies aren’t hard to find/make. Honestly I love your idea of a 3D printed Rc car to go 100MPH! And if you need any other tips or tricks feel free to contact me over at Instagram, it’s the same name as here.
Hope to see more of this soon!
Yeah it's tough to keep them straight at speed. Keep it up!
DREHMDRIVE LIVEEEESSSSSS!!!!
DREHM vs the world
You're probably already a better driver than most, keeping that thing on the road with no body!
Used to race nitro rc cars about 15 years ago... Having a body on the car makes such a huge difference it's amazing. I had my car dialed and on rails on the track, but if you took the body off, I'd look like a blindfolded 3 year old driving it.
I know you mentioned addressing aerodynamics later. I hope you can look at ground effect and Bernoulli's principle as that should really help the car stick to the surface!
That crash at the end was so cartoony when seeing it from over that small hump in the road lol
you should lower the center of mass by placing the lipos lower in the body and place the motor in the middle when you do the awd conversion
i really recommend making a resin body for your car so when it crashes the go pro or the internal parts wont break and it will protect the car a little bit
my most amazing part is he applied cr-touch on his 3d printer
Your 3D printed car is absolutely mind blowing and I truly admire your 3D printing skills and electronic knowledge, but for the car to be substantially stable and steers in a straight path, you need to look deeper into the steering geometry and also lower the car's center of gravity. You need to look into setting up your wheels to have some negative camber for stability, positive caster angle for the front wheels to aid the car to stay in a straight path and add some degree of toe-in to the rear wheels. Also you need to ensure that there are minimal amount of free play in all moving parts related to steering. I wish you all the best and hope you will hit the 100mph mark. Cheers.
The tires you printed need to be balanced once mounted to the rim, that will make the car more stable. I don't know much about 3D printing, but I would look into trueing the tires as well. For more traction on the printed tire, you could look into tire "sauce". The RC transmiter and receiver combination you were using comes with an inbuilt gyro, did you have both gyros active while performing your runs?
your stability problem looks like its the gopro its offset to the right the gopro is flat so at high speeds the drag makes it go to the right every time it lost stability it went of to the right
For high speed stability you want more rear grip than front and the balance of pressure needs to be further back than the center of gravity in all directions, yaw (side to side) if you don't want to lose control, pitch (front and back) if you don't want to suddenly take flight
that car hates the front right wheel.
If you use fpv you can much control the car
Add a flight controller with GPS. You can send telemetry back to your fpv goggles. You can set it up so that it will "fly" in a straight line. If you use a radio with edge tx, you can set up logic that will fix your handling issues. You are only limited by your creativity. The next best thing would be a car tx that has a gyro.
1:12 those might be incredible drift tyres
I have printed, tested, modifed this tarmo5 like 100x times, and came to the conclusion that printing with Ninjatek Armadillo (75D TPU) makes it literally indestructible. I recommend you to give it a try, it's a hard TPU and it absorbs of lot before it breaks (if it eventually breaks, never got to that point yet and i'm bashing it to the sky)
that stuff is expensive.
@@KidAgainHobbiesi think printing the same parts 10x is more expensive 😅
@@Itsmeblvck i think buying an rc car is cheaper and less headaches. a printed part will never be as strong as a molded part no matter what material you use.
@@KidAgainHobbies you are correct but depending on your part orientation, forces applied and suited material you can get around 90% of the durability of a molded part/maybe even more durable.
Also buying an rc car defies the engineering sense of the video…
more wider arm on rc car is more balance out speaking of narrow so easy lose tracking cause it slip out everywhere
2nd using offroad tire was to force tire stay contact with road at high speed but if you lose speed cause tire retrack back in place make no contact with ground it leads to sliding into thing
3rd if you need tracking so bad them go wider tire thicker that way wont turn into balloon just like offroad tire did
i just love seeing people finding way to test different between it
Foam tires are the best option for high speed. No ballooning but they don’t last long.
for stability you can increase the toe out angle slightly on the front wheels and see how that works out and if it needs stability give it some toe in angle on the rear wheels just minor though.
Finally the next part is out ♥ love this
Hi, I'm from Brazil! Amazing videos! Have you ever seen The Angle of the F1 Wheels? Perhaps, if you tilt the directional wheels, just like Formula 1 cars, you will reach greater speed. The physics behind this would depend on a longer text, I leave it to you to research haha (I hope it works) Another suggestion: increase or widen the axes to concentrate the center of gravity.
you should try foam tire and add front toe (more open) to stabilize the front. but redesign suspension would be great. your dampers need to be more horizontal.
Hi mate id like to help with the aero
If u want an openwheel car u can cover the body but not the wheels, id recomend f1 like wishbones and it seems that u have a bumpy surface to use, id recommend havjng 1.5 cm of ground clearance and to prevent any air spillage we can put on silicon skirts to help seal the air in. There must be around 2 cm of front wing ground clearance so air can still go in the floor, i recomend a low angle of attack wings, and for the floor part i recommend ground effect.
The body must not have any sharp edges
WHAT AN AMAZING VIDEO. thank u algorithm. i subbed
for the tires, you can adjust infill and get down the infill extrusion width so that way you can do it softer
Adjusting the toe and camber of the wheels can affect oversteer at high speeds, having positive toe on the all the wheels can (hopefully) help the car not oversteer at high speeds.
Wind stirring would be pretty cool to try out sorta like airplanes but at a side to side level, or just a more streamlined design to make the car stay straighter
as soon as scarlet fire came on I was expecting some dirty buds to be blown up
I 3d printed some giant paddle wheels for the snow, they worked perfectly, i printed in both petg and pla, petg was more brittle
I would recommend having an empty space in the tires so they van mold around the asphalt
Gyros in high speed cars are always temperamental, they rarely work Properly, they either over correct at high speeds or don’t do anything at all, just keep in mind
can you please make a video on the essential hardware needed to build your own 3d printed car?
I also wanted to look into printing my tyres and I I thought of either printing in resin directly, or just fdm printing a mould to cast my own tyres. You Might wanna look into that.
Awesome video! I subscribed and hit alerts so I can see the 4wd version of this build!!
I've made my own RC fully 3D printed car. For my wheels I ended up cutting up mountain bike tubes, then epoxying them to my TPU wheels to add rubber.
For this rc car redesign you should try to make it look like the car from toy story. Then I'll believe the scene when it is almost keeping up with the moving truck
Look like it needs some bumpers and a roll cage too :P
For strong parts print with very little infill, like 10% to 20%, make a small hole in the 3D print surface, and inject resin with a giant syringe.
You need a top cover to complete the aero. After you reach a certain speed the aero takes over for stearing and stability. Maybe some active aero would help too. Your car is too light and not enough stable down force to rely on tire stearing.
smaller stiffer suspension, the swaying is because of high center of gravity, and soft suspension allowing the swaying
You could try incorporating rear toe-in, a lower ride height, a faster steering servo, and a rear wing with vertical stabilizers.
it needs to be more wide and a bit much longer for stability, larger wheels on the back, and more sustain on suspension cause it might start to wobble at high speed... thats are the mechanic problems, then u have to make some sort of aerodynamic for the car.
Nice project btw, and keep improving it
big vertical stab fin hanging off the rear and shift weight forward to help with stability at speed. And not so much downforce on the front.
testing mine in spring both metal and two 3d printed, my metal one is geared to max speed of 100mph from aftermarket parts we shall see if it gets close to 80mph with efficiency lose . 3d printed is 2 different designs one based close to a tt02 and other compatible with tt02 parts but very little in common with original tt02 chassis. hope it all works well for myself with very little damages lol but thats the best part of it being 3d printed easy fixing.
You need foam tires, longer and wider chassis. It's geared too tall also. I would take off about 5 teeth and that should help. I bet you can hit about 60 under those conditions.
Hey dude I was just gonna say if ur going to make your own shell you should make it out of lexan as it is the most common plastics to make roc body shells out of and it is easy to work with
softer suspension helps a ton with bouncing, and you have to get the amount of damping just right. too much and it'll still bounce from not compressing fast enough. too little and the wheel will float and take forever to come back down, then possibly have a second bounce from rebounding so fast. you can visualize this in your head. imagine a tires from the side, and it's rolling and the ground is moving back quickly. a bunch comes by and the tire hits it and sends the tire moving upwards. with perfect damping, it stops just above the height of the bump, then comes back down to make contact with the road again quickly. that way you lose traction for a shorter period of time. if damping is too weak, the tire will fly up and it won't stop until you max out the suspension arm travel, then it'll bounce back down too fast and possibly have a second bounce. your tires will spend a lot of time not touching the road. if damping is too high, the impulse will impart energy into your chassis and it'll deflect your trajectory with each bump, and it'll look like it's skipping around the surface like a rock skipping across a lake. luckily they sell different spring rates and fluid viscosities for the purpose of tuning this sort of thing
i use the though2000 for a living, really. I print about 3kg of it per week. If you want to increase your results and avoid any deformation of thinner walls whilst curing. Preheat the parts with uv only. Use 35°C for 120min and let it cool down. Then preheat again with same settings and continue to the normal 70°C 60 min program.
How heavy is your car at the moment? Are your wishbones bending/flexing?
There are filaments made from recycled tyres that are far more grippy than TPU, it stinks like a tyre fire while printing though so print with good ventilation.
have you thought about trying tire softener to get more grip with the tires. These are usually used by drag racers ...not sure if it is compatible with the material from which you print the tires
Man, use some metal parts for the axis, and change the rigid material to ASA and for the body sides, bumpers you may use TPU. You never will broken again like that.
3:16 somebody watches dankpods here
Just came to see this.
Use ground effect Anda big diffuser to get more downloaded and less drag
Try NinjaFlex 85A TPU. The most common TPU is 95A hardness, and most brands of this standard TPU are a bit slippery. However, NinjaFlex 85A TPU has a completely different texture and is extremely high friction against most surfaces I've tested. Also you can try printing with fuzzy skin which will improve friction, at least at the beginning until it wears down.
You need to get a foam weels for speed running like bananers
Try looking at high speed world record rc cars for inspiration
Btw lower the suspension so no air can get under the car so it is more controllable
Cool project. Maybe it needs a little bit of toe-in on the rear wheels.