For your tires, you should try the Fuzzy Skin setting (if you use cura). I've printed things in polymaker TPU that are extremely slippery normally, but have much better grip with the Fuzzy skin setting enabled. I'd imagine that VarioShore would have even better results.
I don't know how to spell it in English, but tyres need to be more flat, or without the lines, like formula 1 tyres that don't have any lines or marks in the tyres, something like flat tyres? Or totally smooth tyres. Edit: you can also try adding a downward pointing spoiler, check out Pagani's spoiler system, or Bugatti, switch out the GoPro for a more streamlined camera, or make a full ramp carcass like a batmobile, and put the camera there, that way you will get more aerodynamic.
whats happening at high speed is ur rear wheels are loosing grip so u spin ur tires and loose control a rear wing but dont go too overboard on the rear downforce cuz then the front wheels will lack grip from the balance being moved. hope this helped and made sense :)
Honestly the instability looks more like a suspension geometry issue to me. Most RC cars will run a substantial amount of toe in on the rear. I think this may help with your stability problems.
Precisely the issue I think. I used to race a lot of 1/10th scale cars at close to a professional level. Top speed maybe more like 30mph most of the time as acceleration was more important, but they were very stable. Toe in on the rear wheels, better suspension damping, and balanced weight/downforce should help a lot.
@@pierholtrop5432 squatting isnt an issue at all, in fact the rc car is too darn light, actually every rc car is way too light to make the suspension act like a real car. squatting isnt bad, its the fact that the car spins out under high acceleration, which is a grip and a weight disribution problem
I've got four FDM printers and I've just never seen a reason to pick up a resin. I think you may have finally opened that door for me. Interesting build, subbed
Resin printing is the messiest thing I've ever done. I would watch some videos showing the actual entire process. It's time consuming and like I said a MESS
For stability a bit of toe in on the rear and neutral in the front would help. You already have positive caster in the front, that also provides more stability. If speed is the goal then a longer wheelbase also helps. And with a RWD car you also want to have the weight near the rear axle. RWD buggies often have the motor behind the axle to provide optimal weight distribution for that setup. And a common misconception regarding aero: you don't want that much downforce when going for speed, you want stability. So fins are a good idea, flat underbelly and a bit of rake to keep the car stable. When using wings you basically are putting variable levers on the front and back - especially bad if you go over bumpy-ish surfaces at speed. If you want to see what the results of bad aerodynamic balance can be: google Peter Dumbrecks Le Mans sommersault from 1997...
The tires you printed need to be balanced once mounted to the rim, that will make the car more stable. I don't know much about 3D printing, but I would look into trueing the tires as well. For more traction on the printed tire, you could look into tire "sauce". The RC transmiter and receiver combination you were using comes with an inbuilt gyro, did you have both gyros active while performing your runs?
3d printing the hubs and placing them in a mold for silicon casting is something I've seen a couple other people do but I'm not sure they would work at the high speeds you're aiming for. Great work so far and I'm definitely interested in seeing more done with the gyro!
Hi Michael, I've recently uploaded my own 3D printed RC car to printables. Im hoping I can reach at least 60mph when my new longer range radio arrives. The design of the drivetrain is similar to the Tarmo5 and Tarmo4. A video of it and link are on my youtube page
For the redesigned car, I have a couple of suggestions. Make it lower, so that you can incorporate an undertray and diffuser for more downforce to help with stability at speed. You can get little gyroscope modules (some rc cars actually come with them) that connect to the steering servo and can countersteer when they detect the car changing direction without the driver's input.
To incorporate a gyro effectively you need advanced software. It is a seemlingly easy thing but a soon as you get to sensor fusion it is some serious black magic fuckery :D Easier would be to use a little toe in on the front wheels by lengthening the steering rod a little.
@@vubito3245 my understanding is that the gyro modules made for rc cars are pretty plug and play, and you only have to tune how aggressively it countersteers so you don't get oscillations.
Brilliant work, Michael! Really well done! 😃 Your sponsor has 3d printing with metal, also CNC I believe... I don't know, perhaps it could be a good idea for some parts. 😉 Other than that... Looking forward to the 4x4 version! Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
since you already have all the electronics and stuff i'd recommend to just print the robak 2.2 or proto36. Doesn't take you any designing time, just printing/assembly and it may just allow you to get some ideas and close in on 100mph without any effort.
i use the though2000 for a living, really. I print about 3kg of it per week. If you want to increase your results and avoid any deformation of thinner walls whilst curing. Preheat the parts with uv only. Use 35°C for 120min and let it cool down. Then preheat again with same settings and continue to the normal 70°C 60 min program. How heavy is your car at the moment? Are your wishbones bending/flexing?
2:12 I feel you brother, I don't like getting up early either. For some reason we humans decided our day starts 3 hours after sunrise in summer, while early mornings feel so pristine.
for stability you can increase the toe out angle slightly on the front wheels and see how that works out and if it needs stability give it some toe in angle on the rear wheels just minor though.
Dude, so well done, it's very impressive! Switch to FPV sooner than later, that will help. The gradual reduction in steering with speed is a must, you are oversteering now at high speeds. The car seems to float / airlift at high speeds, which is def an aerodynamic issue. Add those wings. Get inspiration from the new Ducati Streetfighter wings. Lower the COG if you can. It feels like the COG is still very high, sitting well above the wheels. Largers wheels would allow your COG to sit *below* wheel level. Just tips :)
I would say to add more weight to the car, especially to the rear end to increace rear end traction. You could add a spoiler to the front to get some downforce or just let the rear end do the steering and aceleration.
Hi mate id like to help with the aero If u want an openwheel car u can cover the body but not the wheels, id recomend f1 like wishbones and it seems that u have a bumpy surface to use, id recommend havjng 1.5 cm of ground clearance and to prevent any air spillage we can put on silicon skirts to help seal the air in. There must be around 2 cm of front wing ground clearance so air can still go in the floor, i recomend a low angle of attack wings, and for the floor part i recommend ground effect.
I too have done a little 3D printing for my rc car. I made a big spoiler similar to this one and a battery holder to hold two batteries at a time. I was working on a front splitter but had to leave my printer in Missouri 10 hours away.
Maybe go with a simpler car? The fastest "on road" RC cars often have a solid rear axle, foam tires, chassis flex rear suspension and king-pin front suspension. They're more of a tiny go-cart than a scaled down car.
I have printed the same car, but I have changed almost every part. The highest I got is 60mph on a 4S battery. The biggest changes I made is, bigger shocks, changed the angle of the suspensions, I extended the chassis 50mm, made everything super tight because a lot of the tolerances were way off and sloppy.
one thing to help with the aerodynamics would be to make the center of mass closer to the ground (make the suspension ride lower). this would also help with the handling.
For high speed stability you want more rear grip than front and the balance of pressure needs to be further back than the center of gravity in all directions, yaw (side to side) if you don't want to lose control, pitch (front and back) if you don't want to suddenly take flight
@@EngineeringAfterHours yeh i know Raz makes some pretty incredible stuff, cant say im much into rc cars. Have a wltoys a979 or somethin which is really bad as 2wd. But of course there are many factors such as toe, camber, caster, tyres, motors and even acceleration control for achieving stable driving.
I also wanted to look into printing my tyres and I I thought of either printing in resin directly, or just fdm printing a mould to cast my own tyres. You Might wanna look into that.
Please look at this comment: 1. You should get a better wheel and cover them because most of the friction takes place in the wheels. 2. In your first video you shortened the width ( I think it was from 11 to 9 inches). This actually makes it less stable. 3. Get a better speed controller and electric motor. The 2 LiPo batteries are overload for that small motor. 4. The suspension is not enough. A small (if possible hydraulic) shock absorber with it would soften the ride. 5. The gyro can sometimes mess up with how you control the car. You should definitely fine tune it. 6. The chassis should be closer to the ground. This can maybe damage the car if the road is bumpy, but it really helps with steering. 7. If possible use metal shafts and gears (so it would be stronger and easier to lubricate). That is all. Please consider my advice and comment...
Dunno if it is among the lines of the project. But! Have u ever looked in to ardupilot? The rover section might be of help! Also, have u tried less stiff shocks? While driving over bumps it looks to me as if the struts don't soak op much of the bumps and inturn upset the whole car. Maybe some loser springs wil let it soak more. A less stiff absorber would also allow the tyre to droop faster hopefully having contact with the ground more thus staying in control. I might as well be totally wrong but hey!
have you thought about trying tire softener to get more grip with the tires. These are usually used by drag racers ...not sure if it is compatible with the material from which you print the tires
Hi Another problem could be that the car's centre of gravity is too high. It looks like it has a ground clearance of something like Traxxas Slash when it should be closer to a Tamyia TT02 chassis
I can see that your car is pretty high, what I would suggest is smaller shocks and have oil on them so the bounce isn’t a problem. 4wd is a clear requirement for achieving over 100MPH since with Rwd no tire has enough grip or is wide enough to sustain those speeds. I suggest you look into some 4WD chassis that big Rc companies make like the Traxxas 4tec 2.0 or 4tec 3.0. I have a 4tec 2.0 and grip with how the platform is made has become and issue. I’ll suggest that you fit all the electronics on one side and the battery on the other side to balance the weight of the car. Why not put it on the middle? Well the driveshaft has to be in the middle and even though you could put everything on top it would affect a lot on aerodynamics. If you do go with a similar design than the 4tec 2.0 or 4tec 3.0 make sure to build some body mounts on the same spots as on the real thing so bodies aren’t hard to find/make. Honestly I love your idea of a 3D printed Rc car to go 100MPH! And if you need any other tips or tricks feel free to contact me over at Instagram, it’s the same name as here. Hope to see more of this soon!
1)Try balancing the wheels dynamically if you are 3d printing them 2)For the aero try a rear wing similar to the GT cars but don't go overboard with that. 3)For higher speeds u need front grip as well so what u can do is underbody downforce (again not too much of it or the car will bottom out if the suspension decides to give up).What u will need to do is accelerate the air under the car using some sort of ducting(not so sure abt this) 4)U will probably need some sideskirts too that would prevent the air from rushing in from the sides 5)Try to cover the wheels in the aero too
Have you thought about using a flight controller and using software to help? Take a look at a Matek F405 Wing flight controller loaded/flashed with iNav rover open source software.
Have you tried shaving or abrading the tires? Real race tires are often shaved to remove contaminants like mold release. Obviously FDM doesn't use mold release, but I scuffing the surface might help. Maybe some rough grit sandpaper?
Is your rear wheel alignment square or do you have any toe-in? High powered 2wd RC cars have a ton of toe-in to keep them pointed down range. Might be something to try before you go to 4wd and introduce an entire drivelines worth of new engineering problems.
I have printed, tested, modifed this tarmo5 like 100x times, and came to the conclusion that printing with Ninjatek Armadillo (75D TPU) makes it literally indestructible. I recommend you to give it a try, it's a hard TPU and it absorbs of lot before it breaks (if it eventually breaks, never got to that point yet and i'm bashing it to the sky)
@@Itsmeblvck i think buying an rc car is cheaper and less headaches. a printed part will never be as strong as a molded part no matter what material you use.
@@jhue73 you are correct but depending on your part orientation, forces applied and suited material you can get around 90% of the durability of a molded part/maybe even more durable. Also buying an rc car defies the engineering sense of the video…
testing mine in spring both metal and two 3d printed, my metal one is geared to max speed of 100mph from aftermarket parts we shall see if it gets close to 80mph with efficiency lose . 3d printed is 2 different designs one based close to a tt02 and other compatible with tt02 parts but very little in common with original tt02 chassis. hope it all works well for myself with very little damages lol but thats the best part of it being 3d printed easy fixing.
dont get demotivated... i think you are really on the right way to make your 100 mph! just stay focused and improve your desings over and over and in the end you will reach your goal! like jimmy cliff said: you can get it, if you really want! 😄
Adjusting the toe and camber of the wheels can affect oversteer at high speeds, having positive toe on the all the wheels can (hopefully) help the car not oversteer at high speeds.
you should try foam tire and add front toe (more open) to stabilize the front. but redesign suspension would be great. your dampers need to be more horizontal.
You need a top cover to complete the aero. After you reach a certain speed the aero takes over for stearing and stability. Maybe some active aero would help too. Your car is too light and not enough stable down force to rely on tire stearing.
You can buy off the shelf radio systems really cheap that has a built in gyro and it works pretty good. Also, for speed your probably going to want solid foam tires. I run belted tires on all my fast RC's but if you're aiming for 100+ mph you'll want solid foam or rubber but they'll need to be solid and glued
You should try adding down force to the front and back also you should find a flat area with very little elevation changes also do you know how to use the brakes because I have a rc car that can go 65and it can stop easily with the brakes
you have to work on the parallelism and the camber of the running gear so that the car stabilizes itself, I face the same problem while building my rc car
I know you mentioned addressing aerodynamics later. I hope you can look at ground effect and Bernoulli's principle as that should really help the car stick to the surface!
Hey dude I was just gonna say if ur going to make your own shell you should make it out of lexan as it is the most common plastics to make roc body shells out of and it is easy to work with
more wider arm on rc car is more balance out speaking of narrow so easy lose tracking cause it slip out everywhere 2nd using offroad tire was to force tire stay contact with road at high speed but if you lose speed cause tire retrack back in place make no contact with ground it leads to sliding into thing 3rd if you need tracking so bad them go wider tire thicker that way wont turn into balloon just like offroad tire did i just love seeing people finding way to test different between it
1. In most of the car, especially the arms, you WANT flex. Go pure nylon or pCtg (ie fiberology pctg). RPM Nylon arms are a common upgrade in hobby cars. 2. Watching you fight that right pulling alignment was painful, get your trim straight so you go perfectly straight without touching the wheel. 3. You need better designed front and rear wings at that 50+ speed, especially without any kind of body. 4. New viewer so not sure your printers, but if you have multimaterial, consider using a softer material for the wear layer of the tires and a harder for the inside, especially, maybe print them into rims (nylon), even. 5. Many hobby RC cars end up with almost a square footprint, because it's so much more stable than narrower cars like full sized ones are. 6. You have non adjustable links, are you designing for any toe-in or toe-out? Toe-in gives more stability at high speed.
Jumping in the comments not having seen the earlier design-phase content. The stability issue you're having looks very familiar to a chassis I was trying to tune for stable higher speeds. I learned a lot, but mostly that my square alignment was my downfall; after dialing a small amount of Toe-In on the rear wheels I was able to track straight at speed. I also learned something that had plagued me for years, and it was renewed when I saw your aero add-ons: downforce has to be balanced front and rear. Go put a fat guy on your rear bumper, and the nose lifts. Plop fatso on your front bumper, the rear goes skyward. It's not or ever has been "putting the wing above the non-drive wheels on your Civic hhaha", but without a splitter, that Giant Wang is kinda harmful. Neat.
Wind stirring would be pretty cool to try out sorta like airplanes but at a side to side level, or just a more streamlined design to make the car stay straighter
From the video seems that the gyro is working in the opposite direction. It does'nt counter steer when you spin, instead it follows the direction of the rotation of the car.
Try NinjaFlex 85A TPU. The most common TPU is 95A hardness, and most brands of this standard TPU are a bit slippery. However, NinjaFlex 85A TPU has a completely different texture and is extremely high friction against most surfaces I've tested. Also you can try printing with fuzzy skin which will improve friction, at least at the beginning until it wears down.
slow speed servo and gyro always winds up badly what happens is servo is slow to react and you get that slow wondering left to right. If you're keeping the slow servo ditch the gyro.
Just look up some of the rc speed run guys like raz shiffrin or Kevin talbot it takes a lot to hit 100mph batteries motor esc aero ground clearance. I would try using the arrma limitless platform to get started
i really recommend making a resin body for your car so when it crashes the go pro or the internal parts wont break and it will protect the car a little bit
You may should reduce the way your steering can do... so max servo movement shold be only a tiny bit of movement at the wheels... equals less sensetiv steering at high speeds, but at low to turn around you go a lot of times back and forth to turn around...
at the speeds your currently going downforce plays a pretty low role with most the force produced being drag. suspension geometry and stiffness is most likely the cause of the instability. You CG is also pretty hi above the ground which causes instability. Best bet is to gather some inspiration from cars like the Traxxas X01
There are filaments made from recycled tyres that are far more grippy than TPU, it stinks like a tyre fire while printing though so print with good ventilation.
Just an ovservation here and it may be the camera angle but your alignment of the front wheels looks off in toe angle. It also looks like your Ackerman is way off too, causing the outside wheel to turn much more than the inside wheel. This could definitely make it difficult control.
You need to get a foam weels for speed running like bananers Try looking at high speed world record rc cars for inspiration Btw lower the suspension so no air can get under the car so it is more controllable
You need foam tires, longer and wider chassis. It's geared too tall also. I would take off about 5 teeth and that should help. I bet you can hit about 60 under those conditions.
As always, we have to praise the cameraman for standing on top of the RC car and recording for us.
that camera man name is gopro
For your tires, you should try the Fuzzy Skin setting (if you use cura). I've printed things in polymaker TPU that are extremely slippery normally, but have much better grip with the Fuzzy skin setting enabled. I'd imagine that VarioShore would have even better results.
Great idea! Also Fuzzy is now available in Prusa and Orca slicers as well!
Also just making slicks with a bit softer carcass to dampen the bumps a bit more (or just softer suspention).
I don't know how to spell it in English, but tyres need to be more flat, or without the lines, like formula 1 tyres that don't have any lines or marks in the tyres, something like flat tyres? Or totally smooth tyres.
Edit: you can also try adding a downward pointing spoiler, check out Pagani's spoiler system, or Bugatti, switch out the GoPro for a more streamlined camera, or make a full ramp carcass like a batmobile, and put the camera there, that way you will get more aerodynamic.
Try using TPE for 3D printing tires. It's better than TPU
Thanks, i had nothing but problems with grip when printing tires.
whats happening at high speed is ur rear wheels are loosing grip so u spin ur tires and loose control a rear wing but dont go too overboard on the rear downforce cuz then the front wheels will lack grip from the balance being moved. hope this helped and made sense :)
How about a wing mounted high at the middle of the car like those old f1 cars?
@@islam1337simobad center of gravity and more unstable
@@islam1337simo Undebody downforce would probably be better for that.
@@Litl_Skitl I agree. What an elegant solution.
If you really want to make sense, I suggest using proper language. Not your kind of semi jungle babble.
Honestly the instability looks more like a suspension geometry issue to me.
Most RC cars will run a substantial amount of toe in on the rear.
I think this may help with your stability problems.
Precisely the issue I think. I used to race a lot of 1/10th scale cars at close to a professional level. Top speed maybe more like 30mph most of the time as acceleration was more important, but they were very stable. Toe in on the rear wheels, better suspension damping, and balanced weight/downforce should help a lot.
Use nitro rc antenna tubes cut to size over your rear suspension rod to limit squatting under load
@@pierholtrop5432 squatting isnt an issue at all, in fact the rc car is too darn light, actually every rc car is way too light to make the suspension act like a real car. squatting isnt bad, its the fact that the car spins out under high acceleration, which is a grip and a weight disribution problem
I've got four FDM printers and I've just never seen a reason to pick up a resin. I think you may have finally opened that door for me. Interesting build, subbed
You'll need a place outside of your living area to use it. Those resins stink!!!
@@iandrake4683 not only do they stink, they're also unhealthy as fuck. They WILL fuck you up long term.
Toxic fumes, cleaning with the wash station. No thanks. FDM is fine for me.
Well to be fair he didn't have 100% infill.
Resin printing is the messiest thing I've ever done. I would watch some videos showing the actual entire process. It's time consuming and like I said a MESS
For stability a bit of toe in on the rear and neutral in the front would help. You already have positive caster in the front, that also provides more stability. If speed is the goal then a longer wheelbase also helps. And with a RWD car you also want to have the weight near the rear axle. RWD buggies often have the motor behind the axle to provide optimal weight distribution for that setup. And a common misconception regarding aero: you don't want that much downforce when going for speed, you want stability. So fins are a good idea, flat underbelly and a bit of rake to keep the car stable. When using wings you basically are putting variable levers on the front and back - especially bad if you go over bumpy-ish surfaces at speed. If you want to see what the results of bad aerodynamic balance can be: google Peter Dumbrecks Le Mans sommersault from 1997...
Thanks!
The tires you printed need to be balanced once mounted to the rim, that will make the car more stable. I don't know much about 3D printing, but I would look into trueing the tires as well. For more traction on the printed tire, you could look into tire "sauce". The RC transmiter and receiver combination you were using comes with an inbuilt gyro, did you have both gyros active while performing your runs?
3d printing the hubs and placing them in a mold for silicon casting is something I've seen a couple other people do but I'm not sure they would work at the high speeds you're aiming for. Great work so far and I'm definitely interested in seeing more done with the gyro!
Hi Michael, I've recently uploaded my own 3D printed RC car to printables. Im hoping I can reach at least 60mph when my new longer range radio arrives. The design of the drivetrain is similar to the Tarmo5 and Tarmo4. A video of it and link are on my youtube page
I love how Scarlet Fire goes so well with abusing plastics 🥰
YEAH DANKPODS RAHHHHHH
Bro in 7:11 kerosene rs6 crash😂
For the redesigned car, I have a couple of suggestions. Make it lower, so that you can incorporate an undertray and diffuser for more downforce to help with stability at speed. You can get little gyroscope modules (some rc cars actually come with them) that connect to the steering servo and can countersteer when they detect the car changing direction without the driver's input.
To incorporate a gyro effectively you need advanced software. It is a seemlingly easy thing but a soon as you get to sensor fusion it is some serious black magic fuckery :D Easier would be to use a little toe in on the front wheels by lengthening the steering rod a little.
@@vubito3245 my understanding is that the gyro modules made for rc cars are pretty plug and play, and you only have to tune how aggressively it countersteers so you don't get oscillations.
Brilliant work, Michael! Really well done! 😃
Your sponsor has 3d printing with metal, also CNC I believe... I don't know, perhaps it could be a good idea for some parts. 😉
Other than that... Looking forward to the 4x4 version!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
It would not be "3d printed" anymore. Also, metal is not good absorbing the impacts and would make other plastic parts break easier.
@@xxGmon3yxx you can actually 3d print with metal powder. Its called powder bed fusion and there also are other methods
since you already have all the electronics and stuff i'd recommend to just print the robak 2.2 or proto36. Doesn't take you any designing time, just printing/assembly and it may just allow you to get some ideas and close in on 100mph without any effort.
i use the though2000 for a living, really. I print about 3kg of it per week. If you want to increase your results and avoid any deformation of thinner walls whilst curing. Preheat the parts with uv only. Use 35°C for 120min and let it cool down. Then preheat again with same settings and continue to the normal 70°C 60 min program.
How heavy is your car at the moment? Are your wishbones bending/flexing?
2:12 I feel you brother, I don't like getting up early either. For some reason we humans decided our day starts 3 hours after sunrise in summer, while early mornings feel so pristine.
for stability you can increase the toe out angle slightly on the front wheels and see how that works out and if it needs stability give it some toe in angle on the rear wheels just minor though.
I saw your other vidoe first, and the way you take comments into account is great!! Keep up the work you totally got this
Dude, so well done, it's very impressive! Switch to FPV sooner than later, that will help. The gradual reduction in steering with speed is a must, you are oversteering now at high speeds. The car seems to float / airlift at high speeds, which is def an aerodynamic issue. Add those wings. Get inspiration from the new Ducati Streetfighter wings. Lower the COG if you can. It feels like the COG is still very high, sitting well above the wheels. Largers wheels would allow your COG to sit *below* wheel level. Just tips :)
My 7 year old son loved this video and can't wait to see where this project is going.
I would say to add more weight to the car, especially to the rear end to increace rear end traction. You could add a spoiler to the front to get some downforce or just let the rear end do the steering and aceleration.
Hi mate id like to help with the aero
If u want an openwheel car u can cover the body but not the wheels, id recomend f1 like wishbones and it seems that u have a bumpy surface to use, id recommend havjng 1.5 cm of ground clearance and to prevent any air spillage we can put on silicon skirts to help seal the air in. There must be around 2 cm of front wing ground clearance so air can still go in the floor, i recomend a low angle of attack wings, and for the floor part i recommend ground effect.
The body must not have any sharp edges
I too have done a little 3D printing for my rc car. I made a big spoiler similar to this one and a battery holder to hold two batteries at a time. I was working on a front splitter but had to leave my printer in Missouri 10 hours away.
I love your videos about the 3D printed Car!!! I neeeed the next parts please
Maybe go with a simpler car? The fastest "on road" RC cars often have a solid rear axle, foam tires, chassis flex rear suspension and king-pin front suspension. They're more of a tiny go-cart than a scaled down car.
I have printed the same car, but I have changed almost every part. The highest I got is 60mph on a 4S battery.
The biggest changes I made is, bigger shocks, changed the angle of the suspensions, I extended the chassis 50mm, made everything super tight because a lot of the tolerances were way off and sloppy.
yeah making it tight may do the thing. I think the tarmo5 as shown in these videos is super unstable on the road. I own robak and it's very different.
Cool stuff! Subscribed and following this Project. Can't wait to see V3!
Do you use Bambu only for hard materials (PLA, PETG. etc.) and Ender 3 S1 only for TPU?
one thing to help with the aerodynamics would be to make the center of mass closer to the ground (make the suspension ride lower).
this would also help with the handling.
For high speed stability you want more rear grip than front and the balance of pressure needs to be further back than the center of gravity in all directions, yaw (side to side) if you don't want to lose control, pitch (front and back) if you don't want to suddenly take flight
4wd is definitely the answer, tried making my rc car 2wd, was completely uncontrollable!!
I looked a dude .aking a 1:24 scale 2WD car that went about 100 kmh.
@@CENREAPER-YT did he use gyro?
Running a noble nb4 with servo delay or a perfect pass will work as a pseudo traction control as well if using a 2wd in a drag style speed test.
@@EngineeringAfterHours yeh i know Raz makes some pretty incredible stuff, cant say im much into rc cars. Have a wltoys a979 or somethin which is really bad as 2wd. But of course there are many factors such as toe, camber, caster, tyres, motors and even acceleration control for achieving stable driving.
@@filippus_ No. He ran them for 10-20 meters to test it out and they will (most of the time) crash.
I also wanted to look into printing my tyres and I I thought of either printing in resin directly, or just fdm printing a mould to cast my own tyres. You Might wanna look into that.
Please look at this comment:
1. You should get a better wheel and cover them because most of the friction takes place in the wheels.
2. In your first video you shortened the width ( I think it was from 11 to 9 inches). This actually makes it less stable.
3. Get a better speed controller and electric motor. The 2 LiPo batteries are overload for that small motor.
4. The suspension is not enough. A small (if possible hydraulic) shock absorber with it would soften the ride.
5. The gyro can sometimes mess up with how you control the car. You should definitely fine tune it.
6. The chassis should be closer to the ground. This can maybe damage the car if the road is bumpy, but it really helps with steering.
7. If possible use metal shafts and gears (so it would be stronger and easier to lubricate).
That is all. Please consider my advice and comment...
3:17 absolute dankpods moment, we love to hear Scarlet Fire
Dunno if it is among the lines of the project. But! Have u ever looked in to ardupilot? The rover section might be of help!
Also, have u tried less stiff shocks? While driving over bumps it looks to me as if the struts don't soak op much of the bumps and inturn upset the whole car. Maybe some loser springs wil let it soak more.
A less stiff absorber would also allow the tyre to droop faster hopefully having contact with the ground more thus staying in control.
I might as well be totally wrong but hey!
have you thought about trying tire softener to get more grip with the tires. These are usually used by drag racers ...not sure if it is compatible with the material from which you print the tires
Hi
Another problem could be that the car's centre of gravity is too high. It looks like it has a ground clearance of something like Traxxas Slash when it should be closer to a Tamyia TT02 chassis
When is part 3?
I can see that your car is pretty high, what I would suggest is smaller shocks and have oil on them so the bounce isn’t a problem. 4wd is a clear requirement for achieving over 100MPH since with Rwd no tire has enough grip or is wide enough to sustain those speeds. I suggest you look into some 4WD chassis that big Rc companies make like the Traxxas 4tec 2.0 or 4tec 3.0. I have a 4tec 2.0 and grip with how the platform is made has become and issue. I’ll suggest that you fit all the electronics on one side and the battery on the other side to balance the weight of the car. Why not put it on the middle? Well the driveshaft has to be in the middle and even though you could put everything on top it would affect a lot on aerodynamics. If you do go with a similar design than the 4tec 2.0 or 4tec 3.0 make sure to build some body mounts on the same spots as on the real thing so bodies aren’t hard to find/make. Honestly I love your idea of a 3D printed Rc car to go 100MPH! And if you need any other tips or tricks feel free to contact me over at Instagram, it’s the same name as here.
Hope to see more of this soon!
longer and wider wheelbase would be a must as it will hug the ground more and cause less wobble at high speeds
1)Try balancing the wheels dynamically if you are 3d printing them
2)For the aero try a rear wing similar to the GT cars but don't go overboard with that.
3)For higher speeds u need front grip as well so what u can do is underbody downforce (again not too much of it or the car will bottom out if the suspension decides to give up).What u will need to do is accelerate the air under the car using some sort of ducting(not so sure abt this)
4)U will probably need some sideskirts too that would prevent the air from rushing in from the sides
5)Try to cover the wheels in the aero too
Do you have those front tires toed in?
Have you thought about using a flight controller and using software to help? Take a look at a Matek F405 Wing flight controller loaded/flashed with iNav rover open source software.
Have you tried shaving or abrading the tires? Real race tires are often shaved to remove contaminants like mold release. Obviously FDM doesn't use mold release, but I scuffing the surface might help. Maybe some rough grit sandpaper?
Is your rear wheel alignment square or do you have any toe-in? High powered 2wd RC cars have a ton of toe-in to keep them pointed down range. Might be something to try before you go to 4wd and introduce an entire drivelines worth of new engineering problems.
I have printed, tested, modifed this tarmo5 like 100x times, and came to the conclusion that printing with Ninjatek Armadillo (75D TPU) makes it literally indestructible. I recommend you to give it a try, it's a hard TPU and it absorbs of lot before it breaks (if it eventually breaks, never got to that point yet and i'm bashing it to the sky)
that stuff is expensive.
@@jhue73i think printing the same parts 10x is more expensive 😅
@@Itsmeblvck i think buying an rc car is cheaper and less headaches. a printed part will never be as strong as a molded part no matter what material you use.
@@jhue73 you are correct but depending on your part orientation, forces applied and suited material you can get around 90% of the durability of a molded part/maybe even more durable.
Also buying an rc car defies the engineering sense of the video…
testing mine in spring both metal and two 3d printed, my metal one is geared to max speed of 100mph from aftermarket parts we shall see if it gets close to 80mph with efficiency lose . 3d printed is 2 different designs one based close to a tt02 and other compatible with tt02 parts but very little in common with original tt02 chassis. hope it all works well for myself with very little damages lol but thats the best part of it being 3d printed easy fixing.
Add big vertical stabilizers to the back of the car. Same as on airplanes, they keep the car stable at high speeds.
dont get demotivated... i think you are really on the right way to make your 100 mph! just stay focused and improve your desings over and over and in the end you will reach your goal! like jimmy cliff said: you can get it, if you really want! 😄
Have you tried using a little toe-in instead for better straight line stability?
Adjusting the toe and camber of the wheels can affect oversteer at high speeds, having positive toe on the all the wheels can (hopefully) help the car not oversteer at high speeds.
you should try foam tire and add front toe (more open) to stabilize the front. but redesign suspension would be great. your dampers need to be more horizontal.
You need a top cover to complete the aero. After you reach a certain speed the aero takes over for stearing and stability. Maybe some active aero would help too. Your car is too light and not enough stable down force to rely on tire stearing.
big vertical stab fin hanging off the rear and shift weight forward to help with stability at speed. And not so much downforce on the front.
You can buy off the shelf radio systems really cheap that has a built in gyro and it works pretty good. Also, for speed your probably going to want solid foam tires. I run belted tires on all my fast RC's but if you're aiming for 100+ mph you'll want solid foam or rubber but they'll need to be solid and glued
If u have problems with spining out try ading back spoylers or u cold sift the waot forward
for the tires, you can adjust infill and get down the infill extrusion width so that way you can do it softer
was v3 releasied?
You should try adding down force to the front and back also you should find a flat area with very little elevation changes also do you know how to use the brakes because I have a rc car that can go 65and it can stop easily with the brakes
What was the 'foam' you used for the tire again? Do you have a link?
you have to work on the parallelism and the camber of the running gear so that the car stabilizes itself, I face the same problem while building my rc car
I know you mentioned addressing aerodynamics later. I hope you can look at ground effect and Bernoulli's principle as that should really help the car stick to the surface!
Hey dude I was just gonna say if ur going to make your own shell you should make it out of lexan as it is the most common plastics to make roc body shells out of and it is easy to work with
more wider arm on rc car is more balance out speaking of narrow so easy lose tracking cause it slip out everywhere
2nd using offroad tire was to force tire stay contact with road at high speed but if you lose speed cause tire retrack back in place make no contact with ground it leads to sliding into thing
3rd if you need tracking so bad them go wider tire thicker that way wont turn into balloon just like offroad tire did
i just love seeing people finding way to test different between it
Very entertaining to watch. Excited for the next vid
1. In most of the car, especially the arms, you WANT flex. Go pure nylon or pCtg (ie fiberology pctg). RPM Nylon arms are a common upgrade in hobby cars.
2. Watching you fight that right pulling alignment was painful, get your trim straight so you go perfectly straight without touching the wheel.
3. You need better designed front and rear wings at that 50+ speed, especially without any kind of body.
4. New viewer so not sure your printers, but if you have multimaterial, consider using a softer material for the wear layer of the tires and a harder for the inside, especially, maybe print them into rims (nylon), even.
5. Many hobby RC cars end up with almost a square footprint, because it's so much more stable than narrower cars like full sized ones are.
6. You have non adjustable links, are you designing for any toe-in or toe-out? Toe-in gives more stability at high speed.
You could try decreasing the tire-sprung mass. That should help keeping the contact between tire and road.
Jumping in the comments not having seen the earlier design-phase content. The stability issue you're having looks very familiar to a chassis I was trying to tune for stable higher speeds. I learned a lot, but mostly that my square alignment was my downfall; after dialing a small amount of Toe-In on the rear wheels I was able to track straight at speed.
I also learned something that had plagued me for years, and it was renewed when I saw your aero add-ons: downforce has to be balanced front and rear. Go put a fat guy on your rear bumper, and the nose lifts. Plop fatso on your front bumper, the rear goes skyward. It's not or ever has been "putting the wing above the non-drive wheels on your Civic hhaha", but without a splitter, that Giant Wang is kinda harmful. Neat.
Will it be stronger if you print hollow parts and pour epoxy resin there ?
Is it possible to use rubber and 3d printed tyres in the same wheel for strength and grip
Are you spin balancing them as well? That will def help a ton at higher speeds.
Daaaaaamn im actually loving this project. Easy sub
Wind stirring would be pretty cool to try out sorta like airplanes but at a side to side level, or just a more streamlined design to make the car stay straighter
From the video seems that the gyro is working in the opposite direction. It does'nt counter steer when you spin, instead it follows the direction of the rotation of the car.
Try NinjaFlex 85A TPU. The most common TPU is 95A hardness, and most brands of this standard TPU are a bit slippery. However, NinjaFlex 85A TPU has a completely different texture and is extremely high friction against most surfaces I've tested. Also you can try printing with fuzzy skin which will improve friction, at least at the beginning until it wears down.
slow speed servo and gyro always winds up badly what happens is servo is slow to react and you get that slow wondering left to right. If you're keeping the slow servo ditch the gyro.
Something that helps with stability is making the vehicle wider, not longer. At least if you’re aiming for high speeds.
you should lower the center of mass by placing the lipos lower in the body and place the motor in the middle when you do the awd conversion
can you please make a video on the essential hardware needed to build your own 3d printed car?
Just look up some of the rc speed run guys like raz shiffrin or Kevin talbot it takes a lot to hit 100mph batteries motor esc aero ground clearance. I would try using the arrma limitless platform to get started
that car hates the front right wheel.
i really recommend making a resin body for your car so when it crashes the go pro or the internal parts wont break and it will protect the car a little bit
You could try incorporating rear toe-in, a lower ride height, a faster steering servo, and a rear wing with vertical stabilizers.
What are you using to show speed and direction?
You may should reduce the way your steering can do... so max servo movement shold be only a tiny bit of movement at the wheels... equals less sensetiv steering at high speeds, but at low to turn around you go a lot of times back and forth to turn around...
did you use the gyro from the rc reciver? 😢
I am hooked, great project! I wanna give this a try now
notice at 5:55 his left front tire has directional tread going in the backwards direction
at the speeds your currently going downforce plays a pretty low role with most the force produced being drag. suspension geometry and stiffness is most likely the cause of the instability. You CG is also pretty hi above the ground which causes instability. Best bet is to gather some inspiration from cars like the Traxxas X01
There are filaments made from recycled tyres that are far more grippy than TPU, it stinks like a tyre fire while printing though so print with good ventilation.
Just an ovservation here and it may be the camera angle but your alignment of the front wheels looks off in toe angle. It also looks like your Ackerman is way off too, causing the outside wheel to turn much more than the inside wheel. This could definitely make it difficult control.
Use ground effect Anda big diffuser to get more downloaded and less drag
hey man, maybe you can implement done kind of speedsensitive steering sensitivity.
the faster you go, the smaller the steeri g input gets
Those wheels are perfect for drifting and i hope cheaper to print ?
Would you be willing to share the Gerber files for your DrehmFlight PCB?
Thanks!
You need to get a foam weels for speed running like bananers
Try looking at high speed world record rc cars for inspiration
Btw lower the suspension so no air can get under the car so it is more controllable
maybe you want to try using TPE instead of TPU for the tires since those usually have a more of a rubbery texture from expirience
You need foam tires, longer and wider chassis. It's geared too tall also. I would take off about 5 teeth and that should help. I bet you can hit about 60 under those conditions.
Something I haven't seen people try to build a car with in wheel motors. Independent motors in two rear wheels would be pretty sweet.
tire seem to expand. you should try to insert some string like 2 or 4 rings while printing inside of it