Brilliant, the shower wasn't draining and I spent days back flushing, rodding and w.h.y, I couldn't get under the shower. I didn't install it myself and had no idea how the trap worked. What a dummy! You just lift it out! Job done.
I have been a plumber for 50 yrs and never have I used silicone on this type of waste that comes with rubber seals, after 2 years the rubber rejects the silicone , as I have found out so many times when doing maintainance, so many diy plumbers think silicone is the answer when in fact it causes so many problems later on.
+John Oneill That's why I did not use silicone ;-) The instructions for the shower tray also said to use a sealant that is suitable for use with rubber seals, which is why I used it! Thanks for the comment
Not sure, I don't think you are supposed to use normal silicone, which is why I always use plumbers gold or the Poly max when sealing existing rubber seals. Thanks for the comment
Thanks for the info - just a question on sealant - would OB1 (polymer, I think) be suitable for the job. As silicone (as you'll know) reacts badly with the rubber seals about 18 months down the line.
I have repaired hundreds of shower traps that have been installed like this. Use experience not the manufacturers information they don't have to fix them after a Copple of years when they start to leak and ruin your celing. I ALWAYS use some fernox LSX on the bottom rubber that way it will last as long as the one that you took out did.
Great Video. Really helpful. Tky. Question: Since the underside of the tray is far less even than the upper side, why is sealant not applied to the underside. If the top seal leaks, the waste system, as a whole ,will not leak. If the bottom seal leaks, then it will! My money is on a leak from the BOTTOM seal! Also, if for some crazy reason, repair became necessary, if only the bottom seal uses sealant, the top part has be removed/replaced, without disturbing the bottom half- which may be tiled over and completely inaccessible? Your thoughts please? Tky v much Chris
Never really thought about it, I just follow the manufacturers instructions. I'm sure they tell you only to seal the top for a reason, similar to shower trays, where you should only seal the outsides, never the insides.
I want to replace mine but i can only take off the top cap then four screws on the next plate but everything else is solid. Do you know what i need to do to replace the round head with a square head, as i want to tile over the existing vinyl. It's a proper wet room, so the tray is literally cemented in. I hope that makes sense.
Hello, I recently had one of these installed. While cleaning, as i never used a drain trap, I unscrewed the threading to clean out the hair as part of regular cleaning. I noticed that the underneath part is not stuck to the bottom of my shower tray. I can see some loose sealant which i think means my plumber installed it with sealant and I've just dislodged that. I've simply screwed the top and bottom of the trap back together but it was difficult to do without being able to hold it from below. I also made sure the rubber gaskets were in place. I can wobble the drain pan if i try. Is this going to be an issue?
Once again, thanks for the video. Got a couple of short questions; 1) Is it safe/advisable to do this with the shower tray in situ? The chrome top cover of our en-suite shower waste (raised/suspended tray) is chipped and peeling away. 2) What measurements/dimensions will I need to source a replacement or am I better stripping the old one out first and going to the shop with it to get like-for-like? Thanks in advance!
+Allan D You can do it with the tray in situ, as long as you can get decent access to it. I think the waste's are all the same size, but the outlet on the waste traps are normally all different, so it's best to remove the old one and try and get an identical model, otherwise you might have to move/adjust the waste pipe. Have you checked to see if the chrome cover will unscrew, as some do?
+Ultimate Handyman Not yet but I will do tonight. Spent last night taking up the tiles around the shower tray (with a knock through screwdriver thanks to another of your vids). Thanks for the prompt reply and glad to see the channel doing so well! :)
That 'bowl' that comes with the components, what is its purpose? The water in my shower has recently started to fill in the tray and drain slowly, I want to check for blockage, can I simply lift that out to check? Very helpful video btw.
It is there to collect hair etc. This is an old video, but yours might be something similar- th-cam.com/video/r5Gb3EWnb5o/w-d-xo.html Thanks for the comment
No, it traps water inside it. It's a siphon mechanism. However, check the 'water seal height' specification of the trap. They can vary from 19mm to 50mm. This is the 'size' of the seal preventing the smell coming back into the room. They have different sizes to accommodate the available depth of the shower tray/floor etc.
The small white thing in the trap that has the rubber washer, is that suppose to go into the 40mm pipe or rest on it and the rubber washer just pushes it on to it?
I'm not 100% sure what you mean, I think you mean the rubber seal and the washer. The compression nut slides onto the pipe first, then the white plastic washer, then the black rubber seal. This is then pushed into the waste trap and everything is pushed forwards into the trap, until you can tighten the nut. I hope that helps 😉
They are both important but the underneath seal does the majority of the sealing. This waste was installed exactly as the shower tray manufacturers recommended. Thanks for the comment
The tray that I'm currently fitting has a rough finish underneath as per the one in this video. The concrete underside on mine is kind of honeycombed like a malteser only bigger. It's also like this where the underside sealing ring meets the tray. I noticed that something has been applied to that area on the tray in your video. What was used for that and was that to ensure that the area where the underside seal is made, is smooth for the rubber seal? Thanks for all the generous and very useful info.
If I remember rightly, I used plumbers gold. Plumbers gold is specifically formulated for sealing jobs like this. fave.co/3w5mGD7 Thanks for the comment 👍
You have to look at why the outlet angle is not right? Is the fitting properly seated? If it is, perhaps the shower tray waste hole is not cut correctly? It should be ok, as long as it is fitted correctly.
Ultimate Handyman Thanks for the reply. I’ve not fitted it yet , so I better do it right then! It’s purely to enable it to get out the wall without going through the ceiling below.
To clarify I’m linking an upward (ish) facing 135 bend to the 135 outlet on the MacAlpine- not just running straight pipe out of it ! It’s a tight floor space and I otherwise don’t need to raise the shower so hoping to avoid doing so
If you fit the waste trap to the tray before installing the tray onto its bed, fitting it levelling it, sealing it etc. Then how do you get back under the flooring. You know, to fit the waste pipe???
I normally have a small access hole cut just outside of the shower tray area. I then connect up the waste pipe, check it for leaks etc. Then repair the access hole and then either tile the floor, or prepare it for the final floor covering. Thanks for the comment 👍
Hi buddy I'm fitting a low profile shower base and the waste will be below the floor boards. I'm going to be using solvent pipe and my question is does this just go into the push fit connector of the waste outlet Or do I have to get a push fit to solvent adapter I've found no information online about using a solvent pipe with push fit Advice please buddy
Thanks for this vid. I have a question.. My waste for my shower and bath run along the same line. Is it possible to connect the two together so that the waste continues in one straight line for both shower and bath?
+Stos It's much better to run two separate pipes to be honest, as there can be problems with syphoning etc. with a single pipe. You can connect the two pipes into a manifold where they meet the soil stack using something like this- bit.ly/1mhTi7R
2 pipes are better. But simply use an anti syphon trap on the basin if you have to use a single pipe. This is VERY important if the run is long! Tky. C
Nice video. Umm I've just started a plumbing course, I've installed a shower tray at my parents, it's not leaking but is getting clogged with hair, the chrome top has a 5 mm gap over the tray. Is that usual? Don't think I can force it flush
***** ok thanks, ill take it up tonight and clean it out. You think the chrome lid should be flush against the tray? It looks fine to me, think it's designed to fit like that, but my parents worry. Thanks for egetting back to me :)
cronicsmoke1 I think the gap is normal on some makes of waste trap. I have seen at least one that has a gap like you describe. I think it was a Wirquin. You are welcome BTW ;-)
***** It's a Mcalpine, looks a lot like the one in this video actually :). Just subbed to your channel so will be checking for tips and tricks in the future. Nice one.
Question- I have the same McAlpine shower trap but whoever installed it did not install the upper sealing washer. I just ordered a brand new McAlpine one and was about to install it but notice it is not completely flat- one side is flat but the other is very slightly angled I guess assuming the rim of the outlet slopes down. The outlet rim on my marble tray is completely flat so I am assuming I should not use the upper sealing washer as it will not make a completely flush connection? Perhaps this is the reason it was missing in the first place? So should I just use a bit of Plumber's Gold around the rim of the outlet and that will be ok...or is there a risk of a leak if I don't use some type of upper washer?
I'm not 100% certain. With this shower tray and waste it was recommended to use the sealing washer and also a bead of sealant, I don't suppose you know the make of your tray- then you can see what the instructions say?
@@ultimatehandyman There is a small label on the back of the tray just says "Classic Marble" but I cannot find any info on any such manufacturer. It's a good quality tray with Kludi fittings and nice porceline tiles so not cheap. I don't feel comfortable re-assembling the McAlpine trap as you have done in your video without using some type of washer so perhaps the only thing I can do is try to source a similar sized one that is completely flat. Washer internal dia. 90mm, external dia.108mm and 2-3mm thick...any idea where I may find one?
Hi I have a sewage smell coming from downstairs shower room which is not used - running water or throwing in product masks the smell for a day only. I think it’s bad plumbing Is there any cheap solution for this?
Not much you can do, without altering the plumbing. You might be able to install a trap to prevent the smell, but it might be a lot of work. Putting disinfectant down the drain every couple of days might work as a temporary solution. Thanks for the comment
probably something else is pulling the trap, maybe when you flush a loo or drain a basin it's gluggling away. Try putting some water in then get someone to go around filling and emptying each other appliance in the house. Then if you hear a glugging then that's the issue. Could be some pipes going uphill or just not the right ventilation, maybe even the vent pipe on the roof is blocked or capped somewhere.
@@JohnDuffell I had a waste pipe going uphill with a sink. Periodically the sink virtually blocked and often smelled. Altering the angle of the sink pipe worked wonders although I had to cut a new hole in the waste downpipe and block the old hole. The house must have been fitted with an upward sloping pipe when it was built. It took me years to find the right answer.
we've just had a shower installed and the trap is similar to the brand you demo. The trap is leaking around the tray hole from the lower seal. Is there anything I can do to remedy this? The trap screw is stuck fast - I assume the fitter used a sealant, otherwise i would be able to undo the trap.
+Ultimate Handyman I had another look and was able to undo the trap. There is no sealant above or below. There is only the one large rubber seal on the under side of the trap. I wouldn't call the fitter back if my life depended on it. This is just one of a huge list of items that aren't working correctly.
+Matt Tunney Blimey, I hate it when this happens. It once happened to a mate of mine! The shower tray manufacturers recommended that a sealant is used for the tray that I installed. Plumbers gold is my favorite sealant for doing this (never use normal silicone). I hope you get it sealed and working as it should ;-)
Hi, I’m fitting a poly pipe waste with trap in my shower tray. It comes with a foam ring which sits on the waste hole before the waste is inserted. It looks pretty useless and doesn’t really cover equally around the waste hole. What would you recommend? Thanks
I always try to use whatever is supplied with the kit, then if there is a problem at least you know it was installed as per the instructions. I'd just try my best with the foam ring, you might be able to push some of it away before tightening, then it can't be seen afterwards.
We have one of these traps and all of the lugs have broken meaning the water flow is restricted. Is it possible to replace the top half of the trap without removing the whole shower tray?
Hi, I have a Systempool trap and the instructions are of no help. There are 2 seals, 1 Black rubber and 1 White foam type. Which seal goes where? Is it the white on the top screw down section and black underneath or visa versa? Thanks for the help
Normally the white seal goes on top between the trap and the tray and the black one goes underneath between the trap and tray. Some manufacturers instructions are very poor! Good luck with it ;-)
***** Thanks Handyman, my wife said the same thing through logic though not experience. Also, thanks for the tip on plumbers gold, I was about to use silicone sealant which was also recommended by "Bathstore" - and these people are telling us how to fit their products!! Porcelanosa supplied the waste trap and their instructions will be flushed down their expensive loo!
The McAlpine waste you are using should be installed without the use of any sealant especially silicone which may effect the rubber seals causing them to break down.The system is designed to be installed dry!
Not sure if that is suitable. Plumbers gold is designed for this purpose. McAlpine also make a version now, but it's twice the price of plumbers gold. Thanks for the comment 👍
Hi I have just installed an Mcalpine grid waste on my shower , and it sits proud of the tray causing a small amount of water to remain constantly around the waste that won’t drain away . The water stays there till the next time of use , have i installed the wrong waste ?
@@chrismoyler can replacement or removal of trap is easily possible in future if ct1 or other hybrid sealant used. Further whats your thought about Everbuild EB25?
Thanks, There will be more videos to follow but I can't remember exactly what I filmed. I'm sure I filmed how to install the wall channels and enclosure and how to seal it, but I didn't film how to tile it as that has been covered in other videos. When I get chance I'll cover how to tile around the quadrant shower tray. Thanks for the comment
Ive just had my new shower installed, it has exactly the same outlet as on your demo. Is it possible to replace it with a (conventional) flat one as the raised on is a tripping hazard as its right beside the door opening and the shower tray is only 800x800
+Julia Norman It depends on how it was installed. If it's been bedded down on mortar and there is no way to access the underneath of the tray you will not be able to change it. You might be able to do something with the chrome part that sticks up though?
![โอ้เธอช่าง... - บี้เดอะสกา ft. ต๋อง เทวัญ (Prod. by ป๋าเพชร) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zbWhiLFmVL0/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for this video, however many years later it is just as informative and helpful - appreciate it
Brilliant, the shower wasn't draining and I spent days back flushing, rodding and w.h.y, I couldn't get under the shower. I didn't install it myself and had no idea how the trap worked. What a dummy! You just lift it out! Job done.
I'm glad the video helped ;-)
Thanks for the comment
I have been a plumber for 50 yrs and never have I used silicone on this type of waste that comes with rubber seals, after 2 years the rubber rejects the silicone , as I have found out so many times when doing maintainance, so many diy plumbers think silicone is the answer when in fact it causes so many problems later on.
+John Oneill
That's why I did not use silicone ;-)
The instructions for the shower tray also said to use a sealant that is suitable for use with rubber seals, which is why I used it!
Thanks for the comment
+Ultimate Handyman good to know, I've a leaky waste trap and was about to dismantle and use bathroom silicone, I may check it's suitable for rubber.
+JuiceBanger1
Plumbers gold is often suitable for such jobs.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Not sure, I don't think you are supposed to use normal silicone, which is why I always use plumbers gold or the Poly max when sealing existing rubber seals.
Thanks for the comment
You are welcome ;-)
Thanks for the info - just a question on sealant - would OB1 (polymer, I think) be suitable for the job. As silicone (as you'll know) reacts badly with the rubber seals about 18 months down the line.
What was used on the bottom on the tray around the waste hole. I assume this was to provide a flat surface for the waste seal. Looks like adhesive
I have repaired hundreds of shower traps that have been installed like this. Use experience not the manufacturers information they don't have to fix them after a Copple of years when they start to leak and ruin your celing. I ALWAYS use some fernox LSX on the bottom rubber that way it will last as long as the one that you took out did.
can i use on this trap rubber seal ls-x sealant on top seal and bottom? Thank you
Very clear instructions. I watched one before which was all music and diagrams which was a total waste for me. So Thankyou.
I'm glad the video helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
Great Video. Really helpful. Tky.
Question:
Since the underside of the tray is far less even than the upper side, why is sealant not applied to the underside.
If the top seal leaks, the waste system, as a whole ,will not leak.
If the bottom seal leaks, then it will!
My money is on a leak from the BOTTOM seal!
Also, if for some crazy reason, repair became necessary, if only the bottom seal uses sealant, the top part has be removed/replaced, without disturbing the bottom half- which may be tiled over and completely inaccessible?
Your thoughts please?
Tky v much
Chris
Never really thought about it, I just follow the manufacturers instructions.
I'm sure they tell you only to seal the top for a reason, similar to shower trays, where you should only seal the outsides, never the insides.
Thanks for the video, I’m in the middle of fitting one and wasn’t sure if I needed silicone. Sweet
No problem 👍
I want to replace mine but i can only take off the top cap then four screws on the next plate but everything else is solid. Do you know what i need to do to replace the round head with a square head, as i want to tile over the existing vinyl. It's a proper wet room, so the tray is literally cemented in. I hope that makes sense.
Hello, I recently had one of these installed.
While cleaning, as i never used a drain trap, I unscrewed the threading to clean out the hair as part of regular cleaning.
I noticed that the underneath part is not stuck to the bottom of my shower tray. I can see some loose sealant which i think means my plumber installed it with sealant and I've just dislodged that.
I've simply screwed the top and bottom of the trap back together but it was difficult to do without being able to hold it from below. I also made sure the rubber gaskets were in place.
I can wobble the drain pan if i try.
Is this going to be an issue?
mint vid. i love the way you pronounce your words correctly, "mask-king" especially those t's. helped me alot cheers ✌🏼👍😊
Thanks for the comment
Once again, thanks for the video. Got a couple of short questions; 1) Is it safe/advisable to do this with the shower tray in situ? The chrome top cover of our en-suite shower waste (raised/suspended tray) is chipped and peeling away. 2) What measurements/dimensions will I need to source a replacement or am I better stripping the old one out first and going to the shop with it to get like-for-like? Thanks in advance!
+Allan D
You can do it with the tray in situ, as long as you can get decent access to it.
I think the waste's are all the same size, but the outlet on the waste traps are normally all different, so it's best to remove the old one and try and get an identical model, otherwise you might have to move/adjust the waste pipe. Have you checked to see if the chrome cover will unscrew, as some do?
+Ultimate Handyman Not yet but I will do tonight. Spent last night taking up the tiles around the shower tray (with a knock through screwdriver thanks to another of your vids). Thanks for the prompt reply and glad to see the channel doing so well! :)
+Allan D
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comments and good luck with it ;-)
That 'bowl' that comes with the components, what is its purpose? The water in my shower has recently started to fill in the tray and drain slowly, I want to check for blockage, can I simply lift that out to check? Very helpful video btw.
It is there to collect hair etc.
This is an old video, but yours might be something similar-
th-cam.com/video/r5Gb3EWnb5o/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the comment
Do we need the screwing bend on our waste if so why is it bent at an angle and not come out straight from the trap. Any help is much appreciated
Great video Ultimate. Wee question - would you consider it utter madness to drill out a 60mm shower tray waste to 90mm?
No, It's only 15mm extra, all the way around. 90mm should be fine IMHO
With this type of trap do you need a separate trap to prevent sewer gases?
No, it traps water inside it. It's a siphon mechanism.
However, check the 'water seal height' specification of the trap. They can vary from 19mm to 50mm. This is the 'size' of the seal preventing the smell coming back into the room.
They have different sizes to accommodate the available depth of the shower tray/floor etc.
You helped this woman! Works! Thanks!
Thanks for the comment ;-)
The small white thing in the trap that has the rubber washer, is that suppose to go into the 40mm pipe or rest on it and the rubber washer just pushes it on to it?
I'm not 100% sure what you mean, I think you mean the rubber seal and the washer.
The compression nut slides onto the pipe first, then the white plastic washer, then the black rubber seal. This is then pushed into the waste trap and everything is pushed forwards into the trap, until you can tighten the nut.
I hope that helps 😉
Slightly confused, isn't it the seal underneath that's the important one, as that literally seals the trap body to the underside of the tray ?
They are both important but the underneath seal does the majority of the sealing. This waste was installed exactly as the shower tray manufacturers recommended.
Thanks for the comment
Does anyone know if the McAlpine have anti smell built in? I get a lot of sewage gasses on my current one and looking to replace
Any trap should have some type of seal to prevent foul smells from entering the room.
Thanks for this, and also the additional comments - which are not the usual You Tube highly critical sort.
You are welcome Paul, Thanks for the comment ;-)
can you add sealant to the under side of it as well or is that a waste of time?
The tray that I'm currently fitting has a rough finish underneath as per the one in this video. The concrete underside on mine is kind of honeycombed like a malteser only bigger. It's also like this where the underside sealing ring meets the tray. I noticed that something has been applied to that area on the tray in your video. What was used for that and was that to ensure that the area where the underside seal is made, is smooth for the rubber seal? Thanks for all the generous and very useful info.
If I remember rightly, I used plumbers gold.
Plumbers gold is specifically formulated for sealing jobs like this.
fave.co/3w5mGD7
Thanks for the comment 👍
very good demonstration sir thanks ,
You are welcome 👍
If I connect the shower waste to the soil, will the shower waste stop any smells coming through?
Yes, it should do, as that is what it is designed to do 👍
Good as it goes but wanted info on smoothing the mating surface which is already done at start of this vid
🤔
If the outlet angle is off to one side does it matter so much ? So not directly down to 6 o’clock, more like 4 / 5 o’clock?
You have to look at why the outlet angle is not right?
Is the fitting properly seated?
If it is, perhaps the shower tray waste hole is not cut correctly?
It should be ok, as long as it is fitted correctly.
Ultimate Handyman Thanks for the reply. I’ve not fitted it yet , so I better do it right then! It’s purely to enable it to get out the wall without going through the ceiling below.
To clarify I’m linking an upward (ish) facing 135 bend to the 135 outlet on the MacAlpine- not just running straight pipe out of it ! It’s a tight floor space and I otherwise don’t need to raise the shower so hoping to avoid doing so
@@dw8750 As long as there is a fall, it should be ok. (water does not run upwards well)
Use LSX on the seals but remember to ensure you have a mtce hatch in case of need post completion
It can be used on rubber seala?
If I can’t get Plumbers hold is Dow 785 a good substitute?
Yes, that should be fine 👍
What is the recommended hair trap to use with this shower waste? Cheers
Not sure, I just remove the chrome part and clean the trap periodically 🤔
If you fit the waste trap to the tray before installing the tray onto its bed, fitting it levelling it, sealing it etc. Then how do you get back under the flooring. You know, to fit the waste pipe???
I normally have a small access hole cut just outside of the shower tray area. I then connect up the waste pipe, check it for leaks etc. Then repair the access hole and then either tile the floor, or prepare it for the final floor covering.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Hi buddy I'm fitting a low profile shower base and the waste will be below the floor boards. I'm going to be using solvent pipe and my question is does this just go into the push fit connector of the waste outlet Or do I have to get a push fit to solvent adapter I've found no information online about using a solvent pipe with push fit
Advice please buddy
This is an old video but should help-
th-cam.com/video/x_LalyklwGM/w-d-xo.html
Billy The Loam Garden
Thanks for this vid. I have a question.. My waste for my shower and bath run along the same line. Is it possible to connect the two together so that the waste continues in one straight line for both shower and bath?
+Stos
It's much better to run two separate pipes to be honest, as there can be problems with syphoning etc. with a single pipe.
You can connect the two pipes into a manifold where they meet the soil stack using something like this- bit.ly/1mhTi7R
+Ultimate Handyman you can use air admittance valves to stop syphoning with one waste pipe
+The Mealy Boys
Thanks ;-)
2 pipes are better.
But simply use an anti syphon trap on the basin if you have to use a single pipe.
This is VERY important if the run is long!
Tky. C
Nice video. Umm I've just started a plumbing course, I've installed a shower tray at my parents, it's not leaking but is getting clogged with hair, the chrome top has a 5 mm gap over the tray. Is that usual? Don't think I can force it flush
cronicsmoke1
It's common for them to get clogged with hair- th-cam.com/video/r5Gb3EWnb5o/w-d-xo.html
***** ok thanks, ill take it up tonight and clean it out. You think the chrome lid should be flush against the tray? It looks fine to me, think it's designed to fit like that, but my parents worry. Thanks for egetting back to me :)
cronicsmoke1
I think the gap is normal on some makes of waste trap. I have seen at least one that has a gap like you describe. I think it was a Wirquin.
You are welcome BTW ;-)
***** It's a Mcalpine, looks a lot like the one in this video actually :). Just subbed to your channel so will be checking for tips and tricks in the future. Nice one.
Question- I have the same McAlpine shower trap but whoever installed it did not install the upper sealing washer. I just ordered a brand new McAlpine one and was about to install it but notice it is not completely flat- one side is flat but the other is very slightly angled I guess assuming the rim of the outlet slopes down. The outlet rim on my marble tray is completely flat so I am assuming I should not use the upper sealing washer as it will not make a completely flush connection? Perhaps this is the reason it was missing in the first place? So should I just use a bit of Plumber's Gold around the rim of the outlet and that will be ok...or is there a risk of a leak if I don't use some type of upper washer?
I'm not 100% certain. With this shower tray and waste it was recommended to use the sealing washer and also a bead of sealant, I don't suppose you know the make of your tray- then you can see what the instructions say?
@@ultimatehandyman There is a small label on the back of the tray just says "Classic Marble" but I cannot find any info on any such manufacturer. It's a good quality tray with Kludi fittings and nice porceline tiles so not cheap. I don't feel comfortable re-assembling the McAlpine trap as you have done in your video without using some type of washer so perhaps the only thing I can do is try to source a similar sized one that is completely flat. Washer internal dia. 90mm, external dia.108mm and 2-3mm thick...any idea where I may find one?
You could try ebay- fave.co/2TQOdom
I've looked at screwfix and Toolstation and they don't seem to have any.
Hi I have a sewage smell coming from downstairs shower room which is not used - running water or throwing in product masks the smell for a day only. I think it’s bad plumbing Is there any cheap solution for this?
Not much you can do, without altering the plumbing. You might be able to install a trap to prevent the smell, but it might be a lot of work. Putting disinfectant down the drain every couple of days might work as a temporary solution.
Thanks for the comment
probably something else is pulling the trap, maybe when you flush a loo or drain a basin it's gluggling away.
Try putting some water in then get someone to go around filling and emptying each other appliance in the house. Then if you hear a glugging then that's the issue. Could be some pipes going uphill or just not the right ventilation, maybe even the vent pipe on the roof is blocked or capped somewhere.
@@JohnDuffell I had a waste pipe going uphill with a sink. Periodically the sink virtually blocked and often smelled. Altering the angle of the sink pipe worked wonders although I had to cut a new hole in the waste downpipe and block the old hole. The house must have been fitted with an upward sloping pipe when it was built. It took me years to find the right answer.
Hi, what's that component "facing downward" called? I would like to straight one. Cheers
So when removing the shower tray you just unscrew the top portion to disconnect it from the main waste pipe?
It depends, some basin waste manufacturers recommend using a silicone type sealant, so it might be stuck to the waste
Thanks for the comment 👍
we've just had a shower installed and the trap is similar to the brand you demo.
The trap is leaking around the tray hole from the lower seal. Is there anything I can do to remedy this?
The trap screw is stuck fast - I assume the fitter used a sealant, otherwise i would be able to undo the trap.
+Matt Tunney
It might be difficult to fix, your best option would be to get him to come back to fix it.
+Ultimate Handyman
I had another look and was able to undo the trap.
There is no sealant above or below.
There is only the one large rubber seal on the under side of the trap.
I wouldn't call the fitter back if my life depended on it. This is just one of a huge list of items that aren't working correctly.
+Matt Tunney
Blimey, I hate it when this happens. It once happened to a mate of mine!
The shower tray manufacturers recommended that a sealant is used for the tray that I installed. Plumbers gold is my favorite sealant for doing this (never use normal silicone). I hope you get it sealed and working as it should ;-)
Hi, I’m fitting a poly pipe waste with trap in my shower tray. It comes with a foam ring which sits on the waste hole before the waste is inserted. It looks pretty useless and doesn’t really cover equally around the waste hole. What would you recommend? Thanks
I always try to use whatever is supplied with the kit, then if there is a problem at least you know it was installed as per the instructions. I'd just try my best with the foam ring, you might be able to push some of it away before tightening, then it can't be seen afterwards.
Thanks for the info but only helps if using a riser not much help if putting straight onto floor
👍
We have one of these traps and all of the lugs have broken meaning the water flow is restricted. Is it possible to replace the top half of the trap without removing the whole shower tray?
I have the same problem
McAlpine sell a metal top replacement one you can buy them on eBay or Amazon. The metal one will not break like the plastic
Can this be replaced without going under the house ?
No, you either need access underneath, or you have to remove the tray!
Hi,
I have a Systempool trap and the instructions are of no help. There are 2 seals, 1 Black rubber and 1 White foam type. Which seal goes where? Is it the white on the top screw down section and black underneath or visa versa? Thanks for the help
Normally the white seal goes on top between the trap and the tray and the black one goes underneath between the trap and tray.
Some manufacturers instructions are very poor!
Good luck with it ;-)
*****
Thanks Handyman, my wife said the same thing through logic though not experience. Also, thanks for the tip on plumbers gold, I was about to use silicone sealant which was also recommended by "Bathstore" - and these people are telling us how to fit their products!! Porcelanosa supplied the waste trap and their instructions will be flushed down their expensive loo!
The McAlpine waste you are using should be installed without the use of any sealant especially silicone which may effect the rubber seals causing them to break down.The system is designed to be installed dry!
The instructions for the shower tray said to use the sealant.
I didn't use silicone 😉
Would CT1 be any good as a sealant near the rubber?
Not sure if that is suitable. Plumbers gold is designed for this purpose.
McAlpine also make a version now, but it's twice the price of plumbers gold.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Hi I have just installed an Mcalpine grid waste on my shower , and it sits proud of the tray causing a small amount of water to remain constantly around the waste that won’t drain away . The water stays there till the next time of use , have i installed the wrong waste ?
Not sure, I would imagine you could install any waste.
McAlpine stuff is normally good quality stuff.
How do you get in the floor to connect the trap to the waste once you've fitted the tray? Though the ceiling below?
Normally you cut an access hole on the outside of the shower tray area, then make the connections via that hole.
Thanks mate. Great videos.
Very clear thank you
Glad it was helpful!
can the plumbers gold also be used on the sealing ring of the pipe?
I would imagine so, but it should not really be necessary, unless you are having problems sealing it.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Thanks for getting back!
You are welcome ;-)
Hi,
I have been recommended CT1 as a sealant.
How does this compare to Plumbers Gold?
Not sure, I have only ever used Plumbers gold for this purpose.
Thanks for the comment
CT1 is a hybrid polymer, far superior and long lasting compared to silicone.
Well worth the extra cost
@@chrismoyler can replacement or removal of trap is easily possible in future if ct1 or other hybrid sealant used. Further whats your thought about Everbuild EB25?
What if the shower tray is thicker?
Best to check with the tray manufacturers, they must know of a compatible trap for their tray 👍
Excellent! Will you be filming how to do the rest of it?
Thanks,
There will be more videos to follow but I can't remember exactly what I filmed. I'm sure I filmed how to install the wall channels and enclosure and how to seal it, but I didn't film how to tile it as that has been covered in other videos. When I get chance I'll cover how to tile around the quadrant shower tray.
Thanks for the comment
Ive just had my new shower installed, it has exactly the same outlet as on your demo. Is it possible to replace it with a (conventional) flat one as the raised on is a tripping hazard as its right beside the door opening and the shower tray is only 800x800
+Julia Norman
It depends on how it was installed. If it's been bedded down on mortar and there is no way to access the underneath of the tray you will not be able to change it. You might be able to do something with the chrome part that sticks up though?
My trap never come with the top seal washer will the silicone be strong enough alone?
No, I would not risk it as it could fail a few months down the line!
Thank you so much. This is a must have...
Thanks for the comment
do all low level shower trays have to be cemented in place
Paul Webster I don't know, you would have to check the instructions for which ever brand you purchase.
Yes on a bed of sand and cement
Great, thank you!
You are welcome 👍
Thanks again UH, it's these details that matter.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
Plumbers putty..............that is all 😡
The plomber in Canada is toooooo different.
i can do this no problem
How do you know if the waste pipe is a push fit or a glue fit one? Is there any way to tell.