The instructions on the Floplast solvent weld that you are using states to coat BOTH surfaces, this is to ensure you get a good bon over the full depth of the socket otherwise minimal solvent weld adhesive will reach the inner part of the joint. Also the small bead of solvent what you get at the outer edge and inner edge of the joint dries to a thin (usually opaque) film once the solvent has evaporated, so it is not going to cause blockages internally like you describe. Totally agree twisting the joint and removing burrs is really important to get a good seal and reducing the chance of blockage
Although you’ve already mentioned twisting when joining the pieces, it wasn’t done during the marked joints - perhaps to demonstrate the alignment. But I’d pay extra attention to that and make sure I start the twist from an offset position so as to finish at the mark. The importance of twisting when pushing in cannot be overstated as a channel can be created when pushing in directly through which water can escape. Great video though and keep up the work!
I've been buying and renovating properties for years, basically I'm just a DIY'er, but now and again even I need a refresh on how to do something properly. This bloke knows his stuff and delivers it in a clear to understand format, thanks. ,
Hello DUY guy. thanks for the video. It has really helped me. I am doing up my kitchen and your video was just the thing I needed. Thank you very much.
Thanks a lot. Glad you found it useful. Try it on a spare bit and you will then be able to see how the solvent bulges out inside the fitting if there is excess especially
Thanks for the tip on not using the glue on the coupling I tried push fit on a shower waste and had leaks so used solvent weld, like you marked up the joints dry fitting then glued the whole waste up and no leaks this had to be water tight was access to the waste under the shower tray was limited
Great video 👍🏻 doing a bathroom refurbishment just now, so using solvent weld , …BUT need to bring some Push-Fit end feeds onto the solvent weld pipes , HOW do you connect the two differing systems ???? 🥴
I have a kitchen sink with a 40mm? trap that has compression joints and need to fit a straight solvent weld waste pipe (43mm?) to the outside wall, with a solvent weld 90 degree joint outside, and straight pipe to the drain below. Will this work? and if not what would are the alternatives to achieve the job?
Brilliant....and I can't believe I didn't know there are 2 types of 40mm pipe....I was trying to figure out why my weld fittings were so loose, it's because I've got push-fit pipe 😳
i seen so many videos and worked along side a couple of plumbers who glue both the pipe and the fitting and i can only imagine its to be sure they havent missed an area of pipe with glue. plastic compression waste fittings will accommodate solvent and non solvent weld pipe regardless of their different outer size , is that correct ?. Love your channel and Happy to be corrected before i mess it up 👍
I've watched other videos on TH-cam, where they use a purple primer on the pipe and fitting before using the solvent weld. Do you not need to use that?
Brilliant video. Could anyone help…I need to reduce the size of a 40mm fitting to 32mm. Am I right putting the 32 pipe inside the 32 reducer and then putting this inside a 40mm fitting? Does that work?
Great video. Is it the end of the world if the pipe can’t be pushed into the coupler fitting all the way to the stop? I have a pipe that’s slightly deformed so can only push it 4/5 of the way in.
I'd like to know the answer to this as we did a solvent weld on some 4" pipe to a swept bend, and it only went 35mm in rather than the full 60mm, as it did when dry fitted...it just went off too quickly. Is this likely to leak. It's for a pond drain so not under high pressure. Thanks
Hi, is there a specific time/place you would need to use this type of solvent weld waste pipe? I see waste pipes with the bevelled rubber washers and screw on connections and just wondered if those exist why is there a need for the welded type waste pipe? Thank you for any advice great videos.
@@seanditch4419 well it went together super easy into a slave that I my think push or compression fit would have reached, so very pleased. Of course I did a full dry fit before welding anything
Great I'd do you have any vids on reconnecting down pipes from a drain or shoot from a roof? I cut my down pipe and redirected the end piece going to the drain or shore to run the water into a barrell for watering my vegetable garden but the end piece keeps falling off what can I use to keep the end piece on without making it a permanent fixture thanks
Great tutorial. Only, I prefer to apply solvent inside the coupling about 3/4 down to the stop. Reason being, you never get solvent on your hands. Doing it the other way pushes most of the solvent off the pipe before you get to the stop, and it's messy as hell. Just my honest working opinion.
@@TheDIYGuy1😂 possibly the most polite F.O. I've heard since... ever? Keep making those vids. Absolutely invaluable for guys with all the gear and no idea.
Not sponsored by Solvent weld by any chance? Top tip if you're a Mickey Mouse DIYer like me, you need to watch all the way through because it does seem plastic pipe is not just plastic pipe. Seemingly some of it is 'Push fit'. Mine was fitted circa 73 - so is mine is solvent weld or push fit. Also as the bloke says if you get it wrong you're screwed and the whole thing has to be cut out. Where I'm working I'm limited to space so if I used this method and it went wrong it would open up a whole can of worms.
Solvent weld physically joins the pipes together so that they cannot leak. Push fit pipes, whilst very reliable these days still increase your chances of developing a leak.
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The instructions on the Floplast solvent weld that you are using states to coat BOTH surfaces, this is to ensure you get a good bon over the full depth of the socket otherwise minimal solvent weld adhesive will reach the inner part of the joint. Also the small bead of solvent what you get at the outer edge and inner edge of the joint dries to a thin (usually opaque) film once the solvent has evaporated, so it is not going to cause blockages internally like you describe.
Totally agree twisting the joint and removing burrs is really important to get a good seal and reducing the chance of blockage
Excellent video, clear instructions. Good comments too under the video. Id recommend reading those comments too as there are some good advises.
Although you’ve already mentioned twisting when joining the pieces, it wasn’t done during the marked joints - perhaps to demonstrate the alignment. But I’d pay extra attention to that and make sure I start the twist from an offset position so as to finish at the mark.
The importance of twisting when pushing in cannot be overstated as a channel can be created when pushing in directly through which water can escape.
Great video though and keep up the work!
I've been buying and renovating properties for years, basically I'm just a DIY'er, but now and again even I need a refresh on how to do something properly. This bloke knows his stuff and delivers it in a clear to understand format, thanks.
,
Appreciate comments like these. Makes it all worth while 👍
Great video, it's the tips and tricks that makes all the difference, nice few in this video.
Simple straight to point tips.... Excellent
Hello DUY guy. thanks for the video. It has really helped me. I am doing up my kitchen and your video was just the thing I needed. Thank you very much.
Thanks mate, it's really helpful and lots of important facts
Another great video, I always put solvent weld in the connector as well, but what you said makes sense so will stop doing that in the future.
Thanks a lot. Glad you found it useful. Try it on a spare bit and you will then be able to see how the solvent bulges out inside the fitting if there is excess especially
Love ur videos mate, so simple to follow. Keep it up!!!!
Thanks, will do!
Superb channel.. Very clear and precise! 👍
Thank you very much
Lovely clear explanation, cheers!
Thanks, glad you found it helpful
Be good to have a video on when you should use push fit vs solvent weld
Great idea. I will see what I can do. Thanks
Very good video. I'm about to do a small job and the 'dry fitting' technique will work wonders.
Glad it was helpful
really handy video, need more videos like this where its detailed 👍
🤗
Thanks for the tip on not using the glue on the coupling I tried push fit on a shower waste and had leaks so used solvent weld, like you marked up the joints dry fitting then glued the whole waste up and no leaks this had to be water tight was access to the waste under the shower tray was limited
Glad I could help
Great video 👍🏻 doing a bathroom refurbishment just now, so using solvent weld , …BUT need to bring some Push-Fit end feeds onto the solvent weld pipes ,
HOW do you connect the two differing systems ???? 🥴
You can use compression fittings to join solvent weld pipe to pushfit pipe
Excellent video. Best way to connect my solvent weld pipe to an older unknown plastic 43mm pipe? You mention that you have an answer?, cheers
Thank you so much .
Decent advice
I have a kitchen sink with a 40mm? trap that has compression joints and need to fit a straight solvent weld waste pipe (43mm?) to the outside wall, with a solvent weld 90 degree joint outside, and straight pipe to the drain below. Will this work? and if not what would are the alternatives to achieve the job?
Brilliant....and I can't believe I didn't know there are 2 types of 40mm pipe....I was trying to figure out why my weld fittings were so loose, it's because I've got push-fit pipe 😳
Thank you sir
i seen so many videos and worked along side a couple of plumbers who glue both the pipe and the fitting and i can only imagine its to be sure they havent missed an area of pipe with glue.
plastic compression waste fittings will accommodate solvent and non solvent weld pipe regardless of their different outer size , is that correct ?.
Love your channel and Happy to be corrected before i mess it up 👍
Thank you
You're welcome
Interesting video. Cheers.
Thanks your welcome
I've watched other videos on TH-cam, where they use a purple primer on the pipe and fitting before using the solvent weld. Do you not need to use that?
Cleaning fluid is always best to get off the grease the pipe and fittings
How do you know what type of pipe exits the wall from the kitchen. Thanks
Brilliant video. Could anyone help…I need to reduce the size of a 40mm fitting to 32mm. Am I right putting the 32 pipe inside the 32 reducer and then putting this inside a 40mm fitting? Does that work?
Can you use solvent weld on central heating systems? I need a pipe above ground, and don't want to use push-fit.
❤
Afternoon - Great video. Does (or can) a solvent weld joiner deteriorate over time? (and result in leaks)
No it does not.
Great video. Is it the end of the world if the pipe can’t be pushed into the coupler fitting all the way to the stop? I have a pipe that’s slightly deformed so can only push it 4/5 of the way in.
I'd like to know the answer to this as we did a solvent weld on some 4" pipe to a swept bend, and it only went 35mm in rather than the full 60mm, as it did when dry fitted...it just went off too quickly. Is this likely to leak. It's for a pond drain so not under high pressure. Thanks
Helpful
Thanks
Should you use a primer before the solvent weld?
Not needed
Hi, is there a specific time/place you would need to use this type of solvent weld waste pipe? I see waste pipes with the bevelled rubber washers and screw on connections and just wondered if those exist why is there a need for the welded type waste pipe?
Thank you for any advice great videos.
You're referring to 'compression fit' by the sound of it. Solvent weld takes up less space and is visually more presentable
@Steve Carter so if you're needing a less chunky more streamline option then the solvent weld pipe is the way to go?
@@seanditch4419 yep ai understand it. I'm actually doing my first solvent weld run just now so I'll post again if I regret it!
@@stevecarter8810 🤣ok good luck thank you👍👍
@@seanditch4419 well it went together super easy into a slave that I my think push or compression fit would have reached, so very pleased. Of course I did a full dry fit before welding anything
Great I'd do you have any vids on reconnecting down pipes from a drain or shoot from a roof? I cut my down pipe and redirected the end piece going to the drain or shore to run the water into a barrell for watering my vegetable garden but the end piece keeps falling off what can I use to keep the end piece on without making it a permanent fixture thanks
I will see what I can do 🙂
Great tutorial. Only, I prefer to apply solvent inside the coupling about 3/4 down to the stop. Reason being, you never get solvent on your hands. Doing it the other way pushes most of the solvent off the pipe before you get to the stop, and it's messy as hell. Just my honest working opinion.
Thanks for sharing your experience 👍
@@TheDIYGuy1😂 possibly the most polite F.O. I've heard since... ever? Keep making those vids. Absolutely invaluable for guys with all the gear and no idea.
Haha I value everyone’s opinions/methods. At the end of the day it’s all about giving it a go and getting the job done around here 👍
Can you tell me how I join the 42mm pipe to the 40mm push fit
Thanks
You will need a compression connector for push fit to solvent weld
How do you join solvent weld pipe to push fit pipe?
You will need to use a compression joint for that.
Hi. I'm manufacturer of solvent cement
Can you please tell me about solvent cement plastic packaging!?
Not sponsored by Solvent weld by any chance? Top tip if you're a Mickey Mouse DIYer like me, you need to watch all the way through because it does seem plastic pipe is not just plastic pipe. Seemingly some of it is 'Push fit'. Mine was fitted circa 73 - so is mine is solvent weld or push fit. Also as the bloke says if you get it wrong you're screwed and the whole thing has to be cut out. Where I'm working I'm limited to space so if I used this method and it went wrong it would open up a whole can of worms.
Why use welded waste pipe fittings rather than push fit.
Solvent weld physically joins the pipes together so that they cannot leak. Push fit pipes, whilst very reliable these days still increase your chances of developing a leak.
she doesn't know what is happening so its not surprising that says that not all the characters can see everything
Thanks a lot
Happy to help