That vehicle DEFINITELY NEEDS SOME LUV, GASKETS & A WELDER. What we need here in Pa. is MORE FREAKIN SALT ON THE ROADS IN WINTER. GREAT DIAG. & HECK NO NEVER FALL ASLEEP DURING YOUR VIDS. I see your ROCK'N THE BIKE, NICE, JUST BE CAREFUL OUT THERE SIR IVAN. PART DEUX COMING, YESSSS.
When I had "electrical gremlins" in my 2001 Lincoln Navigator a couple of years ago, it was due to a leaky windshield causing water damage to the fuse box and electrical connectors under the driver's side dashboard.
That issue is wildly rampant on navigators and expeditions that generation. My cousin's expedition would randomly roll its windows down/up, turn the radio on full blast, and honk it's horn (as in stand on it) when the truck was sitting, key out.
Ah yes, the GEM module on the back of the fuse box. I replaced mine in my 97 F150 with an updated version. Also, taking the vehicle to a windshield place and getting that leak sealed up helps immensely
As Derek might say, that hole is an ankle vent, and because of the weight reduction it will give you 5.29% more HP, see there's always an upside if you look for it, I'll be dipped!
That was probably the best diagnosis I've seen since I was taught. Mind you I was just a kid back then and am no longer a mechanic (retired after 30+ years in the industry). It was just a beautiful thing to watch someone at work within their element. That might sound strange to some folks. But I honestly don't think I "worked" a day I was able to work on a vehicle. Yeah, I like/liked it THAT much. Now I just do odd jobs and help my kids out when they need it (and they're willing to come to the house. LOL). Anyway, OUTSTANDING bit of work Sir!!!
OUTSTANDING! Am definitely looking forward to it. I found your channel today. Specifically for this vid. I'm working on a 1997 F-150 4.6L 4x4 vin 6. Four wheel drive isn't working. I'm pulling my hair out because I can't find the problem. I've checked out all the vacuum, completely. I pulled the shift motor and manually put it into 4 high. So it could be driven here to the house. It was stuck in 4 low. But I really didn't check the motor yet. I didn't when I pulled it because of it being pretty late at night and because of where it was (in the middle of NOWHERE!). One would think automotive would be easier the more one does it. Which is true, to a point. Plus it's been a while since I turned wrenches for a living. After proof reading this I'm just making excuses for my shortcomings. Anywho, looking forward to the next one. Thank You Sir for your time and efforts. It's definitely appreciated. Not only for the technical aspects. But also your professionalism, attention to detail, and as I stated before, it's always enjoyable watching someone in their element.
Ivan that little meter it's not just a toolbox queen . It has a big secret ! The DM79 is a dream for pcb fault finding . It has a very low output voltage on the ohms range . So you can normally test resistors in circuit without the semiconductor junctions getting in the way . Obviously with no power on the pcb ….
Another perfect diagnosis. I always enjoy watching your logical analysis of electrical issues. Your like the Spock/MacGyver of the auto repair industry. Keep the videos coming.
@@jaminova_1969 At the end of my patience I was pushing medium hard one direction while turning for it to (kinda) function. After I destroyed a rear speaker trying to turn DOWN the volume at a drive thru I replaced it with a Kenwood deck.
@@thetinpin Nice! I was like, "How the heck.. did my volume knob break" while it was full blast! I think when I have the money I would like to replace it with a screen, since Ford forgot how to make a decent radio. What ever happened to Philco?
I love when a bad ground makes itself very apparent, and better still when it reduces a shopping list of issues to one or two possibly related items, great video Ivan and happy 4th to you and yours
Great vid Ivan! Seeing this truck makes me realize how lucky I am to live here in Utah where we don’t have to worry about rust… at least not to the degree that truck was showing.
Ivan nice troubleshooting and thanks for saying how you would charge the customer. Helpful. You and wife enjoy the 4th of July weekend and stay safe and well Artie 😊
I guess if you're not crazy about your passenger, you can happen to hit a puddle on that side and give them a shower from the floor board.... LOL... Always a top notch vid when you have the Gravely hat on...
Thanks Ivan for finding out it takes 45 minutes for that battery saver relay to go to sleep. I just started chasing the same voltage draw on the same circuit in my 99 F-150. Good job.
Some of those older Fords, up to about '11, take up to 45 mins to fully go to sleep, I'm glad you mentioned this! Anything you disturb, such as pulling fuses, you must let it time out fully or you might be chasing your tail. I had a customer install 3 'smart fuse box' assemblies (used) on his 06 Taurus because his battery was going dead, and he thought the GEM which is inside said box, was staying on. It wasn't. The battery itself was bad.
I have a 2002F150Supercab, FX4, Lariat, 5.4L the same color only with a tan bottom that I love. 166k miles on it. So this video was extremely interesting to me! Thanks a LOT!
I had that same truck before, the GEM modules are known to go bad, mines had wiper motor issue where the wipers wouldn't turn off but also had parasitic draw similar to this one but never got around to diagnosing it because it had engine issues also so I'd just pull that #22 maxi fuse when I parked it to prevent battery drain. Also very nice flow chart diagnostics and explanations. I've never replaced just a clutch on a compressor its always been the whole unit, lol, nice work though!
Your "notebook" reminds of my early days as an engineer. We didn't have computers, we hand recorded everything in our engineering notebooks. I was assigned to resolve an issue that didn't exist. It took a couple of months. I resolved the issue. My engineering notebook was confiscated...
Sometimes a low tech procedure, like documenting observations and defining a problem by writing it in a notebook, is better than fooling with a computer. Maybe I missed it, why did they confiscate your notebook Dudley, because you discovered something they wanted to conceal? Glad they didn't give you the line "If we tell you we'll have k!ll ya." Good comment.
Another Great video. I am chasing an intermittent parasitic draw 1998 GMC sierra. Just when I think I found it. I can't replicate the draw. Couple days later draw is back. It appears it might be the aftermarket Alarm. Grrrrrr I hate intermittent problems. Have great 4th my friend.
Just happen to come across this. I had a similar issue on a '97 also. It was the alternator, but only above the 2K RPM range. The internal regulators went out and it would kill the battery as you drove. replaced the alt and it was good to go.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Sir, I enjoy every video you create... I just reminded a former associate, engineers make science work for people. You keep that science working. Brilliant...!
That rust was crazy. we sure don't have that problem down south. Wish you went over how to do the battery braw test a little better for beginners. Either way great video
Great diagnosis - as usual . I know you mentioned not charging for a diagnosis if the problem is not there . However - just checking to verify a problem does not exist , your research on the forums and the operational parameters of THIS year , make and model GEM module is time invested - wether a problem is there or not . Since you are working remotely you have to wait till the module goes to sleep . It's not like you can jump on another vehicle . I hope you are compensated for your time and experience . Bottom line - you get results . There are too many hacks out there . That new eyelet and a few hours labor is worth more than a pile of shiny new useless PARTS .
I have seen those clutches wear enough to make the gap between them big enough that the electromagnet would not engage. Taking a shim out would fix it.
I had a similar draw on a 04 F150 heritage I worked on. I swore up and down it needed a GEM module because the battery saver relay would not go to sleep. I was not giving it enough time to go to sleep too.
Ford has had that 45 minute wait for many years. When ever I had one of those vehicle's for a current draw problem, I'd try to be sure to have a second vehicle to work on while monitoring the 45 minute wait. BTW. That 45 minute wait could be 35 to 60 minute wait!
On the four-wheel drive Ford had a problem where the two solenoids that mount on the firewall on the passenger side that control the vacuum for the chamber that pulls in the four-wheel drive would pull moisture in through the vents. In my 98 it went as far as got all the way down into the vacuum chamber that engages the gear in the front axle. Ford later solve this by putting a plastic Shield over top of them sort of like a small roof to deflect the rain water coming in under the hood. I had to replace the solenoids remove the vacuum chamber and drain the water out of it. Just a thought
Hey Man. I'm glad I ran across you on TH-cam. I have been trying to get my 98' F-150 straight for going on two years. The truck is actually a good truck. But I have a terminal illness that effects how long I can work on it, and when. I am actually pretty close to getting ready?.?!.? But I just keep getting hit with a bunch of small issues. Like non-stop. I really want to get it finished so I can go on my trip. I can't find anyone to help. So that's frustrating. Anyway sorry so long here. So I will just hit you with one issue and go from there. When I crank up the truck the driver side window rolls down. I'm pretty sure there are more electrical problems. Any help would be very much appreciated. And I'll be glad to contribute! Thanks in Advance, Traigh in SC
My rule of thumb, is when a vehicle reaches 180,000 miles you sell it no matter what. I have a 1997 f-150 with 163,000 miles and it is going to the junkyard because the previous owner did not take care of it.
Late but I just saw this video. When you started with the parasitic draw the first thing that came to mind was the gem module. My 03 Ranger has a bad GEM module that draws 375ma continuously. Pulled the relay and the battery saver relay and it goes away. I'll replace the GEM module to see if it fixes the problem.
Yes. Water runs down the harness from the firewall, and gets in the back of the GEM module connector. I tied a rag around the harness... No more issues.
Another exceptional video. Could the A/C clutch issue be an air gap adjustment or just a bad clutch? No matter how good I think I am at this the Russian Master always makes it look easy and I learn something.
That poor old truck, brings back memories for me though. I had a 98 F-150 that I bought when it was only 3 years old with 28k on it, it was a great truck. I would have kept it longer than the 13 years I had it but NY road salt isn't kind. So what's in part 2, AC clutch repair? I have heard of some vehicles actually keeping the BCM awake for 30 minutes or so, I believe it has something to do with reading mileage if the display is digital.
Good comment Bill. When you follow Ivan's Pine Hollow Diagnostics you see how amazingly complex vehicles have become. Compared to the Model T that had almost no circuits it makes you wonder. But no wonder mechanics either need a designated diagnostic tech or they need to acquire that skill themselves.
You know GM's have the same issue with their battery saver features....just like people bitch about exhaust manifolds on Fords as if its unique to them. If you were a real mechanic, you would know that Chevy LS series engines as well as chrysler hemi's also have exhaust manifold issues as well.
Yeah, that version of the F150 has issues with water killing the GEM, which lives behind the fusebox. On my truck, I just disconnect the battery when I'm not using my truck.
You know you could make a small adaptor for the ends of your voltmeter probes that are set for checking fuses so you could do it one handed very easy... Just a thought...
Think your giving Ford a bad rap. Looking through your list of videos. Looks like you work on all other makes a lot more. If you’re ever in the bluefield Virginia area I’ll give you a chance to add another Ford video of f150.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics in my opinion there’s good and bad in them all, but none are worth what you have to pay. Anyway thanks for your reply and your videos are better than most.
I know,it seems that the Fords are very particular about having good grounds, etc to run properly as even my great uncles adopted daughters Ford EL Falcon conked out just once with a replacement ECU fitted so I went right through the battery terminals & the wires connecting onto the battery terminals including the main fusible link cable & I soldered the factory crimped connectors to give the ECU a good connection to the battery & the charging system,it hasn't stalled since, note it conked out all the time with the old ECU. As far as parasitic draw goes, my Holden VY SS Commodore runs things such as the radio clock,the LCD odometer & the security system LEDs on the radio & on the instrument cluster. The interior illumination such as the interior light,the illumination for the knobs, etc & the backlight for the display on the radio turns off after the car has been locked 🔒 by the transponder unit in the ignition key & the security system is then switched on by the BCM. I did have a seat height adjuster switch get clogged up with dust which caused a contact to partially stick on which was running the battery low all of the time so I just pulled the switch apart , cleaned it out & reassembled it which stopped the parasitic draw on the battery. Note that I have never had such bad ground problems with a Holden as I have done with a Ford - I don't know why!
At 1:13, if you connected the charger and got 15.85V, your charger is malfunctioning. 14.2V is acceptable, but that is an electronic regulated charger, it should not get that high, possible vehicle electronics damage. The fact that the battery voltage "jumped" literally leapt to 15.84V indicates that the battery is possibly damaged, that jump indicates a very high battery series resistance. Just my view...
I’d just replace the a/c compressor unless the clutch by itself is much less to buy, but if the compressor is still bad, then you’ll lose on labor charges.
I was thinking the radio that won't shut off and the module not commanding sleep could perhaps be caused by another "floating ground" where there is fuzzy logic due to unpredictable trigger actions. I also noticed an aftermarket switch in the video on driver side for some other item.... could that be a part of things too?
when is a door not a door? when it's a jar, LOL.
Nice, logical step by step approach by Ivan. (My rule of thumb: when weird electrical problems, check the grounds.)
Oh snap.. crossed the 100K sub mark. Good for you. We need more people like Ivan, Eric O and Scanner Danner being rewarded by the algorithm.
Don't forget Eric at Advance Auto Diagnostics. He is also an excellent diagnostic technician.
@@stealthg35infiniti94 not sure who that is.. but I’ll def check him out
That vehicle DEFINITELY NEEDS SOME LUV, GASKETS & A WELDER. What we need here in Pa. is MORE FREAKIN SALT ON THE ROADS IN WINTER. GREAT DIAG. & HECK NO NEVER FALL ASLEEP DURING YOUR VIDS. I see your ROCK'N THE BIKE, NICE, JUST BE CAREFUL OUT THERE SIR IVAN. PART DEUX COMING, YESSSS.
When I had "electrical gremlins" in my 2001 Lincoln Navigator a couple of years ago, it was due to a leaky windshield causing water damage to the fuse box and electrical connectors under the driver's side dashboard.
That issue is wildly rampant on navigators and expeditions that generation. My cousin's expedition would randomly roll its windows down/up, turn the radio on full blast, and honk it's horn (as in stand on it) when the truck was sitting, key out.
@@thetinpin Yeah, my blower fan would run at high speed with key off. I had to pull the fuse to shut it off.
@@spinb Bet you got good with the needlenose pliers!
@@thetinpin And after a while I could put that fuse back in with my eyes closed!
Ah yes, the GEM module on the back of the fuse box. I replaced mine in my 97 F150 with an updated version. Also, taking the vehicle to a windshield place and getting that leak sealed up helps immensely
My 92 F150 5.0 436k still going strong. Those tech classes in high-school paid off
As Derek might say, that hole is an ankle vent, and because of the weight reduction it will give you 5.29% more HP, see there's always an upside if you look for it, I'll be dipped!
That truck is proof they made them better back then...its still worth fixing and it was fixable ! Looks like it had a hard life though.
Yeah it's a solid honest truck from the 90s. Most repairs are no parts required :)
There's your problem, Buddy. You got a case of the green crusties.
Good channel as well.
That was probably the best diagnosis I've seen since I was taught. Mind you I was just a kid back then and am no longer a mechanic (retired after 30+ years in the industry). It was just a beautiful thing to watch someone at work within their element. That might sound strange to some folks. But I honestly don't think I "worked" a day I was able to work on a vehicle. Yeah, I like/liked it THAT much. Now I just do odd jobs and help my kids out when they need it (and they're willing to come to the house. LOL). Anyway, OUTSTANDING bit of work Sir!!!
Thank you for the kind words! This was just a warm up... Part 2 is even more fun 👍😉
OUTSTANDING! Am definitely looking forward to it. I found your channel today. Specifically for this vid. I'm working on a 1997 F-150 4.6L 4x4 vin 6. Four wheel drive isn't working. I'm pulling my hair out because I can't find the problem. I've checked out all the vacuum, completely. I pulled the shift motor and manually put it into 4 high. So it could be driven here to the house. It was stuck in 4 low. But I really didn't check the motor yet. I didn't when I pulled it because of it being pretty late at night and because of where it was (in the middle of NOWHERE!). One would think automotive would be easier the more one does it. Which is true, to a point. Plus it's been a while since I turned wrenches for a living. After proof reading this I'm just making excuses for my shortcomings. Anywho, looking forward to the next one.
Thank You Sir for your time and efforts. It's definitely appreciated. Not only for the technical aspects. But also your professionalism, attention to detail, and as I stated before, it's always enjoyable watching someone in their element.
@@abitoffcenter383 Perfect timing. Next 2 vids deal with the ESOF 4x4 system 👍👌
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics OUTSTANDING 😆😊
Ivan that little meter it's not just a toolbox queen .
It has a big secret !
The DM79 is a dream for pcb fault finding .
It has a very low output voltage on the ohms range .
So you can normally test resistors in circuit without the semiconductor junctions getting in the way .
Obviously with no power on the pcb ….
Never knew that! It's a kick-ass meter, almost 30 years old!
Nice detective work Ivan.
Your experience is showing!
Your videos are getting smoother and more polished!
I agree but the cars keep getting shittier.
Aussie guy here ;) Enjoyed that I did as per 99.9% of your videos and If I don't hear from you before I hope you have a Happy 4th of July..
Another perfect diagnosis. I always enjoy watching your logical analysis of electrical issues. Your like the Spock/MacGyver of the auto repair industry. Keep the videos coming.
At this point it's safe to say almost zero Ford stereos from this vintage will turn off unless you pull the fuse. Many of them didn't survive 5 years.
nissan radio cd players are junk too
On/off wasnt a problem on mine, but that god damn volume knob would go from zero to speaker destroyer full blast randomly.
@@thetinpin It takes a gentle touch! Crappiest car stereo I have ever owned!
@@jaminova_1969 At the end of my patience I was pushing medium hard one direction while turning for it to (kinda) function. After I destroyed a rear speaker trying to turn DOWN the volume at a drive thru I replaced it with a Kenwood deck.
@@thetinpin Nice! I was like, "How the heck.. did my volume knob break" while it was full blast! I think when I have the money I would like to replace it with a screen, since Ford forgot how to make a decent radio. What ever happened to Philco?
double hitter Friday. Pine Hollow and SMA. Nice way to start the day!
I love when a bad ground makes itself very apparent, and better still when it reduces a shopping list of issues to one or two possibly related items, great video Ivan and happy 4th to you and yours
It's a 24 year old truck that has seen little P.M. the fact that it runs as well as it does shows what amazingly good trucks these are.
Bingo. Stupid owners that do not maintain there stuff is not a design flaw. :)
Great vid Ivan! Seeing this truck makes me realize how lucky I am to live here in Utah where we don’t have to worry about rust… at least not to the degree that truck was showing.
Ivan nice troubleshooting and thanks for saying how you would charge the customer. Helpful. You and wife enjoy the 4th of July weekend and stay safe and well Artie 😊
I guess if you're not crazy about your passenger, you can happen to hit a puddle on that side and give them a shower from the floor board.... LOL... Always a top notch vid when you have the Gravely hat on...
Thanks Ivan for finding out it takes 45 minutes for that battery saver relay to go to sleep. I just started chasing the same voltage draw on the same circuit in my 99 F-150. Good job.
Great vid Ivan. A very straight forward approach.
Some of those older Fords, up to about '11, take up to 45 mins to fully go to sleep, I'm glad you mentioned this! Anything you disturb, such as pulling fuses, you must let it time out fully or you might be chasing your tail. I had a customer install 3 'smart fuse box' assemblies (used) on his 06 Taurus because his battery was going dead, and he thought the GEM which is inside said box, was staying on. It wasn't. The battery itself was bad.
As always! Great video Ivan! Thanks for sharing looking forward to the other parts! Imagine that 45 minute wait for it to go to sleep on a 97! Ha
I have a 2002F150Supercab, FX4, Lariat, 5.4L the same color only with a tan bottom that I love. 166k miles on it. So this video was extremely interesting to me! Thanks a LOT!
Excellent video especially the parasitic draw sequence. Good customer relations. Have a great weekend.
Another nice diag! Good to see you putting some miles on the new bike also!
heck he should get a seperate charge just for it being a FORD..!!! He is lucky u would work on it,, at auctions, most wont bid on fords.
Great work, always enjoy your videos, thanks
Makes me think of staten Island myriad of problems!!! All the problems caused by 1 simple eyelet!! Damn rust!! Excellent video! Happy 4 th!!!
Needs exhaust work too probably manifolds knowing ford
Another amazing diagnostic video!
I had that same truck before, the GEM modules are known to go bad, mines had wiper motor issue where the wipers wouldn't turn off but also had parasitic draw similar to this one but never got around to diagnosing it because it had engine issues also so I'd just pull that #22 maxi fuse when I parked it to prevent battery drain. Also very nice flow chart diagnostics and explanations. I've never replaced just a clutch on a compressor its always been the whole unit, lol, nice work though!
Well done Ivan, it amazes me what you can do with just one hand! I drive a Ford and I like the Acronym f o r Datsun 🤣 Be well
My favorite acronym, learned in the past 30 months, since I started learning automotive repairs, is FACTS. (Fuel, air, compression, timing, spark.)
Your "notebook" reminds of my early days as an engineer. We didn't have computers, we hand recorded everything in our engineering notebooks.
I was assigned to resolve an issue that didn't exist. It took a couple of months. I resolved the issue. My engineering notebook was confiscated...
Sometimes a low tech procedure, like documenting observations and defining a problem by writing it in a notebook, is better than fooling with a computer. Maybe I missed it, why did they confiscate your notebook Dudley, because you discovered something they wanted to conceal? Glad they didn't give you the line "If we tell you we'll have k!ll ya." Good comment.
I've been having trouble with my truck for 3 years just watching this I think I already know what to do
In reverse Driver Returns On Foot LOL
Well done Ivan. Thanks!
Another Great video. I am chasing an intermittent parasitic draw 1998 GMC sierra. Just when I think I found it. I can't replicate the draw. Couple days later draw is back. It appears it might be the aftermarket Alarm. Grrrrrr I hate intermittent problems. Have great 4th my friend.
You too Bill!
It's time for a collaboration, Bill!
@@HouseCallAutoRepair Ivan an I have in the past. Watch his Xmas video Saturn Astra.
From the Wizard of OZ "move on move on down the road" iven you sure get them.
That was The Wiz. Michael Jackson, Diana Ross. Not Judy Garland in The Wizard Of Oz. Also the song is Ease On Down The Road.
Just happen to come across this. I had a similar issue on a '97 also. It was the alternator, but only above the 2K RPM range. The internal regulators went out and it would kill the battery as you drove. replaced the alt and it was good to go.
Like always.......... Awesome job
Belated Happy Independence Day Ivan!
Mine was a burnt fuse. It had them same signs, and happened to come across your video. It’s the number 9 in the fuse box under the hood.
You are the man! Thank you for the video!
Nice work!
Love your videos. The A/C clutch on my F150 of the same era roached. Parts required...! :-)
You will enjoy Part 2 :)
Yeah, I put a clutch on mine back in the day.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Sir, I enjoy every video you create...
I just reminded a former associate, engineers make science work for people. You keep that science working. Brilliant...!
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Was a scientist and an engineer. I assure you, it's much better to be an engineer and a technologist...
Nice diagnosis
Good job 👍
That rust was crazy. we sure don't have that problem down south. Wish you went over how to do the battery braw test a little better for beginners. Either way great video
I have plenty of battery and charging system vids... Just do a quick search!
Great diagnosis - as usual . I know you mentioned not charging for a diagnosis if the problem is not there . However - just checking to verify a problem does not exist , your research on the forums and the operational parameters of THIS year , make and model GEM module is time invested - wether a problem is there or not . Since you are working remotely you have to wait till the module goes to sleep . It's not like you can jump on another vehicle . I hope you are compensated for your time and experience . Bottom line - you get results . There are too many hacks out there . That new eyelet and a few hours labor is worth more than a pile of shiny new useless PARTS .
Learning,Thanks 👍
i love your work
Happy 4th Ivan!!
Like #165
Thanks for the video!
Life is a learning curve!
HINDSIGHT is 20-15!
I have seen those clutches wear enough to make the gap between them big enough that the electromagnet would not engage. Taking a shim out would fix it.
I had a similar draw on a 04 F150 heritage I worked on. I swore up and down it needed a GEM module because the battery saver relay would not go to sleep. I was not giving it enough time to go to sleep too.
Yup won't forget this lesson!
Very slick.
Ford has had that 45 minute wait for many years. When ever I had one of those vehicle's for a current draw problem, I'd try to be sure to have a second vehicle to work on while monitoring the 45 minute wait. BTW. That 45 minute wait could be 35 to 60 minute wait!
Ivan and Eric O. Make some of the best engine repair videos.
Hey! Nice with a sequel that has separate endings. 😊
On the four-wheel drive Ford had a problem where the two solenoids that mount on the firewall on the passenger side that control the vacuum for the chamber that pulls in the four-wheel drive would pull moisture in through the vents. In my 98 it went as far as got all the way down into the vacuum chamber that engages the gear in the front axle. Ford later solve this by putting a plastic Shield over top of them sort of like a small roof to deflect the rain water coming in under the hood. I had to replace the solenoids remove the vacuum chamber and drain the water out of it. Just a thought
Thanks!
Those trucks are notorious for the floating ground under the passenger side kicker panel rusting out and cutting the ground to allot of things.
Fierce Ornery Rugged Dependable
another great job ivan- rows are horizontal- columns are vertical just fyi
Hey Man. I'm glad I ran across you on TH-cam. I have been trying to get my 98' F-150 straight for going on two years. The truck is actually a good truck. But I have a terminal illness that effects how long I can work on it, and when. I am actually pretty close to getting ready?.?!.? But I just keep getting hit with a bunch of small issues. Like non-stop. I really want to get it finished so I can go on my trip. I can't find anyone to help. So that's frustrating. Anyway sorry so long here. So I will just hit you with one issue and go from there.
When I crank up the truck the driver side window rolls down. I'm pretty sure there are more electrical problems. Any help would be very much appreciated. And I'll be glad to contribute! Thanks in Advance, Traigh in SC
Good job
Happy Independence Day!!
What about AC compressor clutch gap? It might be needing a shim removal to engage the clutch. No parts required!
My rule of thumb, is when a vehicle reaches 180,000 miles
you sell it no matter what. I have a 1997 f-150 with 163,000 miles
and it is going to the junkyard because the previous owner did
not take care of it.
Late but I just saw this video.
When you started with the parasitic draw the first thing that came to mind was the gem module. My 03 Ranger has a bad GEM module that draws 375ma continuously. Pulled the relay and the battery saver relay and it goes away. I'll replace the GEM module to see if it fixes the problem.
Well done
Wasn’t this the generation f150 that had water intrusion problems on the bcm that caused all sorts of problems
Yes.
Water runs down the harness from the firewall, and gets in the back of the GEM module connector. I tied a rag around the harness... No more issues.
Never found anything inside the gem module, to indicate water ever made it through the connector.
Another exceptional video. Could the A/C clutch issue be an air gap adjustment or just a bad clutch? No matter how good I think I am at this the Russian Master always makes it look easy and I learn something.
That poor old truck, brings back memories for me though. I had a 98 F-150 that I bought when it was only 3 years old with 28k on it, it was a great truck. I would have kept it longer than the 13 years I had it but NY road salt isn't kind. So what's in part 2, AC clutch repair? I have heard of some vehicles actually keeping the BCM awake for 30 minutes or so, I believe it has something to do with reading mileage if the display is digital.
I have a 96 ford explorer and there was a pigtail coming out of the harness on the firewall, it was corroded, lost a few functions. (one was 4wd low)
Ford. Love how the battery saver module kills the battery. Do we need this crap?
Good comment Bill. When you follow Ivan's Pine Hollow Diagnostics you see how amazingly complex vehicles have become. Compared to the Model T that had almost no circuits it makes you wonder. But no wonder mechanics either need a designated diagnostic tech or they need to acquire that skill themselves.
You know GM's have the same issue with their battery saver features....just like people bitch about exhaust manifolds on Fords as if its unique to them. If you were a real mechanic, you would know that Chevy LS series engines as well as chrysler hemi's also have exhaust manifold issues as well.
Amazing.
Grasias
Yeah,I was going to tell you they don't go to sleep for a little while,not instant,lol.good job..
"Found On Road Dead". "F'n Old Rebuilt Dodge". LOL
CRUSH IT!
how does a bad ground case parisitic draw
Modules can't shut off and relays stay energized and go bizzerk.
Well done mate happy 4th
I didn't really understand your logic with the low ~1mV measurements over fuses saying "it's a 50amp fuse so
That exhaust manifold leak can be taken care of with a product called clamp a stud sold online and O'Reilly's.
I, too, have had to diagnose some tricky electrical issues with these Fords. Found on road deal. Yeah right. Chyeah right.
Yeah, that version of the F150 has issues with water killing the GEM, which lives behind the fusebox. On my truck, I just disconnect the battery when I'm not using my truck.
I had very similar issue i removed my Radio and surround sound and that fixed it
You know you could make a small adaptor for the ends of your voltmeter probes that are set for checking fuses so you could do it one handed very easy... Just a thought...
Think your giving Ford a bad rap. Looking through your list of videos. Looks like you work on all other makes a lot more. If you’re ever in the bluefield Virginia area I’ll give you a chance to add another Ford video of f150.
Hah I actually drive a Ford and it is super reliable 😁. GM and Nissan are probably my most frequent customers 👍
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics in my opinion there’s good and bad in them all, but none are worth what you have to pay. Anyway thanks for your reply and your videos are better than most.
Do you have a link to the site you got the wire diagrams from? Great content btw.
I know,it seems that the Fords are very particular about having good grounds, etc to run properly as even my great uncles adopted daughters Ford EL Falcon conked out just once with a replacement ECU fitted so I went right through the battery terminals & the wires connecting onto the battery terminals including the main fusible link cable & I soldered the factory crimped connectors to give the ECU a good connection to the battery & the charging system,it hasn't stalled since, note it conked out all the time with the old ECU.
As far as parasitic draw goes, my Holden VY SS Commodore runs things such as the radio clock,the LCD odometer & the security system LEDs on the radio & on the instrument cluster.
The interior illumination such as the interior light,the illumination for the knobs, etc & the backlight for the display on the radio turns off after the car has been locked 🔒 by the transponder unit in the ignition key & the security system is then switched on by the BCM.
I did have a seat height adjuster switch get clogged up with dust which caused a contact to partially stick on which was running the battery low all of the time so I just pulled the switch apart , cleaned it out & reassembled it which stopped the parasitic draw on the battery.
Note that I have never had such bad ground problems with a Holden as I have done with a Ford - I don't know why!
Enjoy your channel, could the a/c clutch air gap be excessive?
You will see in Part 2 🙂
At 1:13, if you connected the charger and got 15.85V, your charger is malfunctioning.
14.2V is acceptable, but that is an electronic regulated charger, it should not get that high, possible vehicle electronics damage.
The fact that the battery voltage "jumped" literally leapt to 15.84V indicates that the battery is possibly damaged, that jump indicates a very high battery series resistance.
Just my view...
I’d just replace the a/c compressor unless the clutch by itself is much less to buy, but if the compressor is still bad, then you’ll lose on labor charges.
I was thinking the radio that won't shut off and the module not commanding sleep could perhaps be caused by another "floating ground" where there is fuzzy logic due to unpredictable trigger actions. I also noticed an aftermarket switch in the video on driver side for some other item.... could that be a part of things too?