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been watching you for a few weeks now gotta say man i love the videos no bullshit and straight to the point without making it too short. Very informational and have helped me a lot. Thanks.
Great vid. I’m building my 6.7 engine too. 10mm CP3, 60 over injectors and the place I got the injectors suggested a fuel rail plug for the additional pressure. The factory one will hold up for a while but they say the spring will eventually fail.
Thanks this was the best explanation I found My problem is couple times getting on it into traffic the truck hiccuped I never run my truck hard I’m going to try it if it’s night and day I’ll just get a new pressure relief valve thank you I also like your exhaust brake install Although I am leaning towards vgt system that doubles as a exhaust brake looking into it now
I like Your take on this. You made a really good point. If Your stock one if not stuck open or failing or something You really don't need one. Great video man. Our trucks are very similar and have a lot of the same upgrades. So this video was really helpful! Thanks for sharing. 👍
I have weakend the spring in several stock rail pressure relief valves to the point of high throttle problems over the years. That done with a stock fuel system other than an edge juice. Although, to your point on how I drive it, yes that can definitely be a factor in my case.
If u have a Dual cp3 you should send out your plug and get it single staged for a higher pressure. Not knowledgeable at all in this but have seen a few vids on it so just passing it along.
Love the video, I’ve been a duramax guy all my life but really been thinking about/ gonna go to a 2018 Cummins with the cp3. My plans for that are a full delete, on the fly tunes with my last one being pretty spicy, 100 overs, larger turbo such as s475 or something, intake, ccv delete, upgraded cooler with tubes, monster ram intake horn, and a 12 mil lift pump. With all of that on a stock cp3 (I promise I don’t beat on my stuff so the injection pump should last a while) do you think my rail pressure will excede the 25000 psi and me needing a plug? And feel free to include any information you would like as I’m very new and learning about the 6.7 cummins
Great video on my 6.7 Cummins I dunno if I got trash in my tank or what but when it gets below 1/4 tank it loses rail pressure an power an when I take diesel cap off there is pressure in fuel tank an I changed fuel filter it was sucked in what you think problem is
Unless you’re running 2 cp3s, insane tunes and you’re modded for pulling you really don’t have to worry about this cracking injector bodies. On a Duramax with over stock injectors, lift pump of your choice and a trusted tune you’ve got nothing to worry about. I run this on my LB7 Duramax with 70 over injectors, a fass lift pump, stock cp3, and a reputable tune and I’ve never had so much as a hiccup. Truck runs 100x better after putting this on and getting rid of the stock pos. Any diesel shop can explain a little better what it does and doesn’t do and wether it’s a good idea for you or not after telling them what all is done to your truck. Best of luck to everyone and great video.
were you having issues before you put the 70 over injectors in and the plug made a difference ? or being oversized you needed more pressure, because the stock relief valve bleed off?
I ran one on my 04.5 6 speed Cummins for over a year and over 130k miles. Never had an issue. Tune 5, 40+psi of boost, towed 26,000(non cdl) pounds for a living cross country(700 miles a day at times). Engine lasted until 438k before it blew a compression ring but it wasn't related. That's my experience. I would run one again if I didn't 12 valve swap the truck.
U were spot on man about the plug. I got a fuel rail plug and have had in my truck for 3 years and no issues. Its the rail spikes that give fuel plugs a bad name but like u said knowing how to drive your truck will make the difference. And on a stock fuel system a rail plug won't do anything really good assurance tho to insure u getting good rail pressure but people rarely hit 24k psi lol
@@darkirondiesel rail pressure still around 20-22psi max, the stock injectors are still in so increasing rail pressure wouldn't be too safe for them. With tuning these injectors are maxed out for what they can handle 😂when I install the 120hp there should be a jump
Ah I see ya that makes sense. I’m doing 120 injectors too probably in the spring. No point doing it now the roads are full of ice all the time anyways haha
I had problems with the relief valve on a 2010 6.7. The rail was losing pressure while towing. Ended up doing a shim which fixed things up and felt safer than a plug.
My Iveco doesn't have a release valve, it does talk about the earlier model in the manual were it does have one but says it's only a safety device and in theory is never used.
Would you still run the rail plug with brand new injectors? Getting new ones and not sure if I should put a PRV back in instead of plug Also you mentioned getting in throttle, off, and then on damages it. What about just letting off quick and it spikes?
I put a plug in mine probably 10 years ago because my stock relief valve was relieving itself (truck wasn't wanting to start) and my wallet allowed me to spend $85 a lot easier than the $480 they wanted at the time.
I was having a long crank hard starts with my lb7. Went thru the entire fuel system and dealt with the issues for months. A friend finally said check the rail plug. Sure enough after 235000 the stock plug failed and was bleeding off pressure. I replaced and it starts amazing!
Hello I have a 2006 dodge 2500 5.9 and I been having this problem so start the truck starts normal when I start driving I feel like it stops accelerating 2 or 3 seconds and it resumes accelerating it does this a few times once I get to 40 or 50 mph drives normal but if I spot at are’s light or I get traffic in the highway it does the same thing replace fuel filter then replace fuel pump and it still doing it I gladly appreciate any help thanks.
I have a 14 2500 cummins and let's say I'm sitting at a red light, my tach twitches a little bit. Can u point me in the right direction of what it could be?
You have to keep in mind that these injectors are built for billions of injections soo the releaf valve is more of a longevity thing. Good stuff still considering the plug myself.
My 03 cummins has a starting issue long crank they told me it could be this pressure relief valve and to order the rail plug or new relief valve because it's not building enough rail pressure to start is this true what's your opinion been beating my head off the wall over this long crank to start
I bought a rail plug but never installed it cause I felt risk to reward was to high. Like 6 months ago geno's garage had factory rail with plug on sale for like 300 so I picked 1 up. I have a automatic with 100hp injectors n stock cp3 and my actual pressure always over shoots my desired by like 200psi
Well if you are building enough fuel pressure already then there’s not really a reason to put it in. But if you got a bigger cp3 or dual cp3s you’d probably want to run it.
I have stock 5.9 cummins with a built 48re with custom efi tunes and fass 100gph lift pump and evryonce in awhile it feels like it wants to run out of fuel and got rid of the stock fuel filter been doing some research on the fuel rail plug
the springs in those things are known get weak over time and they start to open way early robbing your rail from sufficient pressure i personally have had a plug in mine for a number of years now but i have a edge monitor in the cab so i can keep an eye on the FRP and have never been able to exceed the 25kpsi. just buy a new FPRV for peace of mind if you dont a way to monitor fuel rail pressure
Right now im only getting 11 miles a gallon on my 2014 3500 Duramax. Got a h&s minimax but it seems my truck in limp mode. Was looking at the vid cause i was thinking it may be low rail pressure or sum. Dont know anything bout diesels so im looking at diffrent vids. Maybe i need new tunes.
Good to know i was thinking of getting one but ya I think duramaxs are around 27,000 psi max but don't think im gonna be doing any injectors or pump upgrades soon so I wont bother with installing this
Idk if you’ll see this comment or not but if my lb7 doesn’t hold rail pressure and throws codes and limps my pickup bc the cp3 says it’s losing pressure what would you recommend doing? I’m 17 on a fairly low budget😂
I was pulling a trailer up a hill and I had the valve go off. I had to pull over and wait about 25 min till the valve reset then I was good. But I still had to reset code at a later time. To keep this from happening again I bought a single stage valve from Riffraff diesel. Haven’t had it go off but if it does it resets right away keeping you going! Only thing is they cost about $200.
You need one if your under a load, in decent pull on a fairly good grade. You lose power and go in limp mode because of fuel rail pressure, and your out of luck. I have a CTS2, but by the time you get where your need to, too clear the code your screwed.
Mine would slip on the stock tune if I shifted and WOT too fast. Not while towing though (26,000lbs) which was weird but cool it finally went though going dual disc valair now with 2nd gen swap and 100% overs. She's on the jack stands as we speak
Do i see a BD high idle module on the firewall in your video? I have a 2012 with a standard G56 which won't let me use high idle manually. I've been looking at the BD high idle kit. Do you like it?
Idk if you’ll see this comment or not but if my lb7 doesn’t hold rail pressure and throws codes and limps my pickup bc the cp3 says it’s losing pressure what would you recommend doing? I’m 17 on a fairly low budget😂
I’ve been told the stock spring in the relief valves get weak and will cause that so I just wanted some input on weather to try a plug or a new relief valve
You can install a 25.00 plug now and buy expensive parts later or a 125.00 FPRV now and keep your cash later. Me......I chose to follow the advise of the "pro" at a reputable diesel shop, had the plug installed and exactly 20 days later had a CP3 failure and paid dearly for that. DO NOT PLUG YOUR RAIL!
I'm all stock and bought one...just because I was told to, to be sure it wasn't bad when I was diagnosing it. But I left it in. May replace the valve now
So I just installed my ppe race valve in my lb7 and before my dfp would hit 23.1 now it won't hit 23.1 unless I drive it for a few minutes then it will come up I know my fuel cooler has a small leak at the quick coupler so I've been slacking at fixing it now why would it take a few minutes of driving to build max psi should I tear the truck back apart and put the stock one back in???
Great video thanks for doing them learned a lot from them as well can you suggest a place to buy stock injectors for a 2006 Dodge 3500 5.9 Cummings. Thanks 👍
I put a rail plug on 2014 ram 3500ho and it sees over 27000 psi at the rail if I'm on it. Not sure what it was before. I did the tune, deletes, intake elbow, rail plug all at the same time. Completely stock fuel system though.
@@darkirondiesel I've heard that the high output aisin trucks like mine come factory with larger injectors. Not sure if that's true, but that's what I've heard.
The only time this valve come into play is when the the electrical control flow valve fail If you want to see magic disconnect the electrical solenoid control flow valve and full depal on a clear road and if you make it tell me all about it
been watching you for a few weeks now gotta say man i love the videos no bullshit and straight to the point without making it too short. Very informational and have helped me a lot. Thanks.
Thanks buddy I appreciate the feedback!
Yep I always looked at them plugs as a little risky. Thanks very informative
Great vid. I’m building my 6.7 engine too. 10mm CP3, 60 over injectors and the place I got the injectors suggested a fuel rail plug for the additional pressure. The factory one will hold up for a while but they say the spring will eventually fail.
Thanks this was the best explanation I found My problem is couple times getting on it into traffic the truck hiccuped I never run my truck hard I’m going to try it if it’s night and day I’ll just get a new pressure relief valve thank you I also like your exhaust brake install Although I am leaning towards vgt system that doubles as a exhaust brake looking into it now
I like Your take on this. You made a really good point. If Your stock one if not stuck open or failing or something You really don't need one. Great video man. Our trucks are very similar and have a lot of the same upgrades. So this video was really helpful!
Thanks for sharing. 👍
Thank you!
Thanks man I can see you putting them in before going to the track but its be goofy to be having road rage with those things in.
I have weakend the spring in several stock rail pressure relief valves to the point of high throttle problems over the years. That done with a stock fuel system other than an edge juice. Although, to your point on how I drive it, yes that can definitely be a factor in my case.
If u have a Dual cp3 you should send out your plug and get it single staged for a higher pressure. Not knowledgeable at all in this but have seen a few vids on it so just passing it along.
Love the video, I’ve been a duramax guy all my life but really been thinking about/ gonna go to a 2018 Cummins with the cp3. My plans for that are a full delete, on the fly tunes with my last one being pretty spicy, 100 overs, larger turbo such as s475 or something, intake, ccv delete, upgraded cooler with tubes, monster ram intake horn, and a 12 mil lift pump. With all of that on a stock cp3 (I promise I don’t beat on my stuff so the injection pump should last a while) do you think my rail pressure will excede the 25000 psi and me needing a plug? And feel free to include any information you would like as I’m very new and learning about the 6.7 cummins
Great video on my 6.7 Cummins I dunno if I got trash in my tank or what but when it gets below 1/4 tank it loses rail pressure an power an when I take diesel cap off there is pressure in fuel tank an I changed fuel filter it was sucked in what you think problem is
Unless you’re running 2 cp3s, insane tunes and you’re modded for pulling you really don’t have to worry about this cracking injector bodies. On a Duramax with over stock injectors, lift pump of your choice and a trusted tune you’ve got nothing to worry about. I run this on my LB7 Duramax with 70 over injectors, a fass lift pump, stock cp3, and a reputable tune and I’ve never had so much as a hiccup. Truck runs 100x better after putting this on and getting rid of the stock pos. Any diesel shop can explain a little better what it does and doesn’t do and wether it’s a good idea for you or not after telling them what all is done to your truck. Best of luck to everyone and great video.
were you having issues before you put the 70 over injectors in and the plug made a difference ? or being oversized you needed more pressure, because the stock relief valve bleed off?
I ran one on my 04.5 6 speed Cummins for over a year and over 130k miles. Never had an issue. Tune 5, 40+psi of boost, towed 26,000(non cdl) pounds for a living cross country(700 miles a day at times). Engine lasted until 438k before it blew a compression ring but it wasn't related. That's my experience. I would run one again if I didn't 12 valve swap the truck.
12 valve swap is way cooler though haha
U were spot on man about the plug. I got a fuel rail plug and have had in my truck for 3 years and no issues. Its the rail spikes that give fuel plugs a bad name but like u said knowing how to drive your truck will make the difference. And on a stock fuel system a rail plug won't do anything really good assurance tho to insure u getting good rail pressure but people rarely hit 24k psi lol
Ya man I tried and I can’t hit 24k haha. But left it in there because why not, and I’ll need it when I get my bigger 12mm cp3
@@darkirondiesel hell yeah man I left mine so far so good 😂🤷🏾♂️ that extra rail pressure will be need when u do those fuel upgrades
How much psi can you build now with your dual fuelers
@@darkirondiesel rail pressure still around 20-22psi max, the stock injectors are still in so increasing rail pressure wouldn't be too safe for them. With tuning these injectors are maxed out for what they can handle 😂when I install the 120hp there should be a jump
Ah I see ya that makes sense. I’m doing 120 injectors too probably in the spring. No point doing it now the roads are full of ice all the time anyways haha
Nice Bore Rig, brother. Also thanks for the info
Good to know thanks for your efforts!
I had problems with the relief valve on a 2010 6.7. The rail was losing pressure while towing. Ended up doing a shim which fixed things up and felt safer than a plug.
Yeah that’s a good call
My Iveco doesn't have a release valve, it does talk about the earlier model in the manual were it does have one but says it's only a safety device and in theory is never used.
Would you still run the rail plug with brand new injectors? Getting new ones and not sure if I should put a PRV back in instead of plug
Also you mentioned getting in throttle, off, and then on damages it. What about just letting off quick and it spikes?
I put a plug in mine probably 10 years ago because my stock relief valve was relieving itself (truck wasn't wanting to start) and my wallet allowed me to spend $85 a lot easier than the $480 they wanted at the time.
I was having a long crank hard starts with my lb7. Went thru the entire fuel system and dealt with the issues for months. A friend finally said check the rail plug. Sure enough after 235000 the stock plug failed and was bleeding off pressure. I replaced and it starts amazing!
its always a bitter sweet feeling when you finally found the problem but it turned out to be something so easy and simple haha
Love the videos man! 👍
Thanks buddy!
Hello I have a 2006 dodge 2500 5.9 and I been having this problem so start the truck starts normal when I start driving I feel like it stops accelerating 2 or 3 seconds and it resumes accelerating it does this a few times once I get to 40 or 50 mph drives normal but if I spot at are’s light or I get traffic in the highway it does the same thing replace fuel filter then replace fuel pump and it still doing it I gladly appreciate any help thanks.
Wouldn't you just use a higher pressure relief valve?
I’ve seen some high horsepower diesel tuners run relief plugs with a higher pressure rating > 25kpsi
I have a 14 2500 cummins and let's say I'm sitting at a red light, my tach twitches a little bit. Can u point me in the right direction of what it could be?
You have to keep in mind that these injectors are built for billions of injections soo the releaf valve is more of a longevity thing. Good stuff still considering the plug myself.
My 03 cummins has a starting issue long crank they told me it could be this pressure relief valve and to order the rail plug or new relief valve because it's not building enough rail pressure to start is this true what's your opinion been beating my head off the wall over this long crank to start
I bought a rail plug but never installed it cause I felt risk to reward was to high. Like 6 months ago geno's garage had factory rail with plug on sale for like 300 so I picked 1 up. I have a automatic with 100hp injectors n stock cp3 and my actual pressure always over shoots my desired by like 200psi
Well if you are building enough fuel pressure already then there’s not really a reason to put it in. But if you got a bigger cp3 or dual cp3s you’d probably want to run it.
I have stock 5.9 cummins with a built 48re with custom efi tunes and fass 100gph lift pump and evryonce in awhile it feels like it wants to run out of fuel and got rid of the stock fuel filter been doing some research on the fuel rail plug
the springs in those things are known get weak over time and they start to open way early robbing your rail from sufficient pressure i personally have had a plug in mine for a number of years now but i have a edge monitor in the cab so i can keep an eye on the FRP and have never been able to exceed the 25kpsi. just buy a new FPRV for peace of mind if you dont a way to monitor fuel rail pressure
Thanks bud
Good info I thought the newer 6.7s were running something like 32k psi. Is this is correct or am I mistaken.
I’m not sure I thought it was close to the same, but I could be wrong.
Been rail plug in my 06 5.9 tuned 6 speed for two years now no problem runs great 22 mpg. Oh yeah 3500 dually
Hell ya brother
Right now im only getting 11 miles a gallon on my 2014 3500 Duramax. Got a h&s minimax but it seems my truck in limp mode. Was looking at the vid cause i was thinking it may be low rail pressure or sum. Dont know anything bout diesels so im looking at diffrent vids. Maybe i need new tunes.
@@djsevenone340 may only need rail plug. Easy install. Some tuners starve the rail pressure under heavy throttle
what bout stock 5.9 with custom efi tunes and fass 100gph lift pump would it hurt it?
Good to know i was thinking of getting one but ya I think duramaxs are around 27,000 psi max but don't think im gonna be doing any injectors or pump upgrades soon so I wont bother with installing this
Idk if you’ll see this comment or not but if my lb7 doesn’t hold rail pressure and throws codes and limps my pickup bc the cp3 says it’s losing pressure what would you recommend doing? I’m 17 on a fairly low budget😂
I was pulling a trailer up a hill and I had the valve go off. I had to pull over and wait about 25 min till the valve reset then I was good. But I still had to reset code at a later time. To keep this from happening again I bought a single stage valve from Riffraff diesel. Haven’t had it go off but if it does it resets right away keeping you going! Only thing is they cost about $200.
@@loganschleske5915 I think your plug might be stuck slightly open ( fuel rail plug)
250k 6.7 stock rail plug still holding 26kpsi under full load
You need one if your under a load, in decent pull on a fairly good grade. You lose power and go in limp mode because of fuel rail pressure, and your out of luck. I have a CTS2, but by the time you get where your need to, too clear the code your screwed.
How much power over stock, while pulling a 10,000 pound trailer would it take to damage a stock clutch in a 2017 ram 2500
Honestly the stock clutches aren’t the best to begin with so it’s just a matter of time. I would try not to go over 50hp tune personally
Mine would slip on the stock tune if I shifted and WOT too fast. Not while towing though (26,000lbs) which was weird but cool it finally went though going dual disc valair now with 2nd gen swap and 100% overs. She's on the jack stands as we speak
Do i see a BD high idle module on the firewall in your video? I have a 2012 with a standard G56 which won't let me use high idle manually. I've been looking at the BD high idle kit. Do you like it?
That’s actually my exhaust brake switch because I’m running the bd diesel VGT screamer turbo on my 5.9
@@darkirondiesel Thanks for getting back to me!
My engine is throwing code 0755 can someone please help me with this?
Idk if you’ll see this comment or not but if my lb7 doesn’t hold rail pressure and throws codes and limps my pickup bc the cp3 says it’s losing pressure what would you recommend doing? I’m 17 on a fairly low budget😂
Start by getting a fuel rail plug to replace the fuel relief valve. Might have a weak relief valve spring.
If that doesn’t fix it you could try getting a new fuel regular for your cp3. And if that doesn’t fix it then you might have bigger issues.
Fuel pressure regulator *
I’ve been told the stock spring in the relief valves get weak and will cause that so I just wanted some input on weather to try a plug or a new relief valve
You can install a 25.00 plug now and buy expensive parts later or a 125.00 FPRV now and keep your cash later.
Me......I chose to follow the advise of the "pro" at a reputable diesel shop, had the plug installed and exactly 20 days later had a CP3 failure and paid dearly for that.
DO NOT PLUG YOUR RAIL!
I bought one from Riffraff diesel performance single stage! Paid about $200. For it hopefully I did the right thing!
I'm all stock and bought one...just because I was told to, to be sure it wasn't bad when I was diagnosing it.
But I left it in. May replace the valve now
Well PPE not going to work for a 2014
So I just installed my ppe race valve in my lb7 and before my dfp would hit 23.1 now it won't hit 23.1 unless I drive it for a few minutes then it will come up I know my fuel cooler has a small leak at the quick coupler so I've been slacking at fixing it now why would it take a few minutes of driving to build max psi should I tear the truck back apart and put the stock one back in???
Great video thanks for doing them learned a lot from them as well can you suggest a place to buy stock injectors for a 2006 Dodge 3500 5.9 Cummings. Thanks 👍
I put a rail plug on 2014 ram 3500ho and it sees over 27000 psi at the rail if I'm on it. Not sure what it was before. I did the tune, deletes, intake elbow, rail plug all at the same time. Completely stock fuel system though.
Hmm well I’m assuming the newer trucks run higher psi, I’m going to look into it.
@@darkirondiesel I've heard that the high output aisin trucks like mine come factory with larger injectors. Not sure if that's true, but that's what I've heard.
Does the lb7 have this ??
Yes but it's not on the injectors rail
The only time this valve come into play is when the the electrical control flow valve fail
If you want to see magic disconnect the electrical solenoid control flow valve and full depal on a clear road and if you make it tell me all about it
Good video for sure. 🔥
Thanks man 👊🏻
What if I have 30% over injectors? No extra cp3, maybe thinking of getting a bag of parts later to build my cp3 a little. I do have a fass. Wyt?