Out of ALL the review videos I've seen yours have been the best! I've never welded in my life and was looking to get a welder, after seeing your videos I now feel more comfortable on what direction to go to with my purchase, thank you very much!!
Good video. I have experience with both models. They are almost identical in internal parts and performance. Even the torch is interchangeable. I agree, the titanium is the better choice for the price. Definitely stay away from the Harbor Freight/Vulcan wire. E71T-GS and E71T-11 both have their place. E71T-GS I use for rusty, old, beat up metal welding. I use E71T-11 for clean, shiny, new, & Multi-Pass welding. Stay away from lincoln; too expensive. E71T-11 is AWS CERTIFIED, so any brand of E71T-11 will perform almost identically. The GS wire on the other hand has no standards. Only what the manufacturer decides. But for single pass welding, the Forney and INETUB are the best. For multi-pass E71T-11, get Blue Demon. Good video.
I use blue demon a lot. Never for this though. I’ll give them a shot. I got some no name 1.0mm wire that’s e71t-gs and it was far superior spatter wise to the Vulcan. Is gs wire not in aws? I thought it was, but it’s been a long time.
@@DeathTollRacing I’ve yet to see a GS wire that showed AWS certification. But maybe there is. That’s why it’s only rated generally for single pass and not multi pass. But GS is definitely good for rusty, semi painted, old, etc. metal.
@@DIY_Mike-rm5we I can’t say either way. But there is definitely big discrepancy from one brand to another, so I think your instinct to not being aws is probably correct
You really do a great job w your videos. Real world situations I can relate to!!. I'm an HVAC mechanic 26 yrs, just started dabbling in welding (wanted for a long time to learn), bought a yeswelder multi use was happy with it. Always wanted to get a Lincoln or Miller, figured I buy cheap mess around and see how I liked welding. One day in Lowes on closeout saw that Century @ 70.00, I grabbed it. Very different from the yeswelder, much better, a lot smoother. I can't fault the cheaper b/c I am no where near qualified and wouldn't be fair. Keep up the great work thank you
Dude, you made it all so easy to understand. I've never welded ANYTHING EVER I'm 66 . But you explained it just how I like it. You answered all the questions I had and concerns I have l I'm not be going to become a welder but I built me a tiny house and I have some small projects to do. Flux core is all I'll ever need. This unit sounds like a good fit for my experience ( none) and my needs ( minor) Thank you!!🙂👍🙏
@@DeathTollRacing I have a follow up question. I saw another video that says although the titanium isn't bad , there are others just as good , cheaper. What do you think is the best VALUE imported flux core welder available for a beginner dyi guy?
The titanium is the best one I’ve tested hands down. The century is just as good quality wise but not as powerful. Id love to sell you one I make commissions on, but in good faith, nothing can beat the titanium yet for the money.
Neighbor has the Titanium, worked great for application (winch plate on frame of atv) and have used it to pull multiple things out and myself since with the welds holding and no sign of giving. Also, my first time welding MIG so there is that (a grinder and paint makes me the welder I aint)
I can personally share, the Titanium is the superior machine, and you're right for saying so. Why, because it does all you say, is a full-blown workhorse, and literally doesn't stop. I think in 3 years I've had the tip stop due to splatter maybe once or twice; but ALL FLUX CORED welders can have this 'issue'. Second point; the Vulcan wire is absolute trash, period. Lincoln .030 is okay, but Blue Demon is where this wire and Welder - marry to perfection. I own two of these Titanium FC Welders and they sit in the HOT Tucson sun everyday but protected from rain AND THEY HAVE NEVER FAILED. I have built dozens of projects with it and I just keep replacing the wire. It'll weld up to 1/4" thick but, you MUST HAVE a dedicated 30 amp plug for this to have full bandwidth. I installed one on my home and a dedicated 10GA extension cord and this thing, compared to the other Titanium welders HF offers, is the true beast for the price. The Century is a great machine but if you can get the Titanium for less, with more range, why not?
As a welder, you have to adjust to the available machine and material all the time. I`ve never heard a professionel welder say : ""This wire or this machine doesnt`t fit my skill level." Keep your head down, your hands dirty and learn. There is a saying for a reason : "Hard work beats talent." Buy a cheap welding machine, cheap wire, cheapest foldable workmate, some scrap metal and start pulling stringers in your backyard with a beer beside you. There is no way, you can cut corners. You have to get experience. Even to keep your wire in front of your weld puddle and maintain the right drag angle to avoid slag inclusions will take you weeks and many cases of beer. You can`t push slag. You have to drag it. It`s for physical reasons. So you have to learn, how to position your head right to see, what you are doing. That point alone takes weeks. The stickout while dragging is very important and you need to learn, to feel it. There is a sweet spot between no resistance and spattering. You have to find it with your machine and your wire at the given conditions on that day and welding position. Thats why we make testwelds and check them. Take your time and learn , to do it right. Great videos. They help beginners.
@@DeathTollRacing Thank you. I`m slowly working my way into flux core welding. Here in germany, it just get started, to be known by welders. Another tip, you might think about is preheating your workpice. It feels like you bump up your amperage by 25%. For thicker material it`s between night and day. Another point is the preheating of the flux in your wire. With a short stickout like you would do on mig welding, the flux can`t get the temperature, to do the job. You will get slag inclusions. Pull some stringers on a piece of scrap with different stickouts. With no resistence pushing against your gun, the stickout is to short. The flux will run into your weld puddle without getting burned up and you have a terrible weld. With cold material or to long stickout, you will get spatter. On a trainig day in my backyard, i dial the machine in one setup and run hundred stringers side by side on one piece of scrap. I try different drag angles, different stickouts, different straight pulling speed against whip and pause and so on. I enjoy a beer, the different weather conditions and after one or two hours, i`m done with no effort. This teaches me more, than every video can. It`s called experience. I`ve found a wire, that i like and keep some rolls of it in stock. So i have material, that i know, when i need it. Because i`m an old dog, i had to buy 6 welding helmets, to find one, where i can see my weld puddle and the workpice. There are no shops, where you can try different helmets in my area. So i had to spend money and later sell the helmets, that don`t fit my eyes. Welding is a never ending learning process. The more experience you`ve got, the more you have to learn. Keep up your good videos. Greetings from germany.
When you flipped the wire from one machine to the other the century started sounding like the titanium did on the first test there's something going on with that wire I wonder if it's inconsistent flux?
So the .035 wire is just better than the .030. Wished I'd known....only bought the .030 with my little toy welder. So all that spatter is normal for the .030 wire. If I got the gas hooked up would that stop all the spatter?
I think the spatter is better with the Lincoln 030 but, still not as good as the Lincoln 035. Gas might welding definitely has less spatter, but not “none”.
How would it fare if you were welding say a 5 mm plate to 2 mm box section, usually i stick weld these and do a stop start method to avoid blowing through the box section, if i were just welding a stringer i would probably blow through. great videos though, best tuition i have ever seen. thanks, subbed.
Either would work great. I’ve been running the crap out of the titanium welding 1/2” rebar (13mm ish) and has more than enough power, and I have yet to have it thermal protection itself. Im on my 4th roll of wire on that project.
I believe that if your research the duty cycles on welders, you will find that a 30% duty cycle is 3 minutes in 10, as in 3 welding, 7 resting, not 20 minutes on 40 minutes off. 30% is not usually a problem in stick, but can be very limiting in wire feed applications. Thanks for the comparison video.
That’s a good question. I’ve ran it maxed out on that same cord and didn’t have an issue. All the welding in this video (even the thermal test) was done on that cord as well without issue. To be safe a 10g cord wouldn’t be a bad idea, but so far with everything I’ve done I’ve seen no sign of the 12g cord having issues
@@DeathTollRacing ok cool. Thank you. I was out yesterday and picked up a 10gauge cord. Weird thing is they’re only rated at 15amp and the machine is rated up to 23. I don’t think I’m ever gonna crank it high enough to consume that though. Thanks for the reply!!
@@davidpavshak330 I found it seems to only hit 20+ amps on startup momentarily, and tapers out to around 16-18 depending on your wire speed. The higher the wire speed the higher the amps in both input (ac) and output (dc)
The cord jacket on the Titanium Flux 125 is 14g so a 20amp breaker can handle the load. A 50 ft 12g cord is like using the service outlet behind your house...that is 50ft from the breaker box.
I don't understand why anyone would push there's no advantage to it it's clumsy it just doesn't feel right I do push pull when I need extra deep penetration of developed this little method I don't know if if it's a known used talked about method I don't generally go on forums or anything but where I will either go in a little circles so I overlap and get deeper penetration or to a real rapid push pull it gets the joint hot and then super hot but you have to kind of regulate temperature and a slight pause time in order not to overheat the joint. But you can get noticeably better penetration by doing it if there's a need to do that I rarely do it. I do go in little circles all the time and that seems to do kind of the same thing it's like you feel the center of the circle even though it's filled already but to describe the way it overlaps and you actually get a pretty little joint that way but those are all pulls with a little bit of a push when you're going back on the top of the circle for lack of a better terminology little tiny tiny circles make nice joints
Pushing doesn’t penetrate nearly as well. That gives me a video idea actually. Weld in three positions and etch the results. 🤔 Sometimes on thin material it’s helpful to push to avoid burn through.
10:56 On this video and the previous about just the Century 90 you mention doing multiple passes - root and over etc. - to build up the fillet to an acceptable size. To be clear you have to have the correct flux core wire to do multiple passes. A lot of common flux core wire is only single pass. Who knows what will break in the universe if you do multiple passes on a singe pass wire but the egg heads at Lincoln Electric et al. seem to think it matters. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
There is definitely a difference in the wires on if they "can" be multi pass or not. Wires labeled as E71t-gs would be single pass only, but theoretically will be better in a "dirty" environment. E71t-11 are capable to be a multi pass wire. All wires will have this category listed on the package somewhere. Both wires are gasless, just a little bit different. I prefer the e71t-11 99% of the time.
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Out of ALL the review videos I've seen yours have been the best! I've never welded in my life and was looking to get a welder, after seeing your videos I now feel more comfortable on what direction to go to with my purchase, thank you very much!!
Thank you for the feedback! Always good to hear when it helps!
Good video. I have experience with both models. They are almost identical in internal parts and performance. Even the torch is interchangeable. I agree, the titanium is the better choice for the price. Definitely stay away from the Harbor Freight/Vulcan wire. E71T-GS and E71T-11 both have their place. E71T-GS I use for rusty, old, beat up metal welding. I use E71T-11 for clean, shiny, new, & Multi-Pass welding. Stay away from lincoln; too expensive. E71T-11 is AWS CERTIFIED, so any brand of E71T-11 will perform almost identically. The GS wire on the other hand has no standards. Only what the manufacturer decides. But for single pass welding, the Forney and INETUB are the best. For multi-pass E71T-11, get Blue Demon. Good video.
I use blue demon a lot. Never for this though. I’ll give them a shot. I got some no name 1.0mm wire that’s e71t-gs and it was far superior spatter wise to the Vulcan. Is gs wire not in aws? I thought it was, but it’s been a long time.
@@DeathTollRacing I’ve yet to see a GS wire that showed AWS certification. But maybe there is. That’s why it’s only rated generally for single pass and not multi pass. But GS is definitely good for rusty, semi painted, old, etc. metal.
@@DIY_Mike-rm5we I can’t say either way. But there is definitely big discrepancy from one brand to another, so I think your instinct to not being aws is probably correct
You really do a great job w your videos. Real world situations I can relate to!!. I'm an HVAC mechanic 26 yrs, just started dabbling in welding (wanted for a long time to learn), bought a yeswelder multi use was happy with it. Always wanted to get a Lincoln or Miller, figured I buy cheap mess around and see how I liked welding. One day in Lowes on closeout saw that Century @ 70.00, I grabbed it. Very different from the yeswelder, much better, a lot smoother. I can't fault the cheaper b/c I am no where near qualified and wouldn't be fair. Keep up the great work thank you
Thank you! I really like that century! That was a great deal!
Dude, you made it all so easy to understand. I've never welded ANYTHING EVER I'm 66 .
But you explained it just how I like it. You answered all the questions I had and concerns I have l
I'm not be going to become a welder but I built me a tiny house and I have some small projects to do. Flux core is all I'll ever need.
This unit sounds like a good fit for my experience ( none) and my needs ( minor)
Thank you!!🙂👍🙏
Hope it helps! There is another in depth video on the flux core here that I think may be helpfull. th-cam.com/video/Pyhf87Frflw/w-d-xo.html
@@DeathTollRacing I have a follow up question. I saw another video that says although the titanium isn't bad , there are others just as good , cheaper. What do you think is the best VALUE imported flux core welder available for a beginner dyi guy?
The titanium is the best one I’ve tested hands down. The century is just as good quality wise but not as powerful. Id love to sell you one I make commissions on, but in good faith, nothing can beat the titanium yet for the money.
@@DeathTollRacing Thanks alot!!
I didn’t speed this up,this is as fast as I work. Your hired!
😂
Neighbor has the Titanium, worked great for application (winch plate on frame of atv) and have used it to pull multiple things out and myself since with the welds holding and no sign of giving. Also, my first time welding MIG so there is that (a grinder and paint makes me the welder I aint)
lol. I have heard nothing so far but positive on that titanium. At least from people who actually have used them and aren’t just assuming.
I can personally share, the Titanium is the superior machine, and you're right for saying so. Why, because it does all you say, is a full-blown workhorse, and literally doesn't stop. I think in 3 years I've had the tip stop due to splatter maybe once or twice; but ALL FLUX CORED welders can have this 'issue'. Second point; the Vulcan wire is absolute trash, period. Lincoln .030 is okay, but Blue Demon is where this wire and Welder - marry to perfection. I own two of these Titanium FC Welders and they sit in the HOT Tucson sun everyday but protected from rain AND THEY HAVE NEVER FAILED. I have built dozens of projects with it and I just keep replacing the wire. It'll weld up to 1/4" thick but, you MUST HAVE a dedicated 30 amp plug for this to have full bandwidth. I installed one on my home and a dedicated 10GA extension cord and this thing, compared to the other Titanium welders HF offers, is the true beast for the price. The Century is a great machine but if you can get the Titanium for less, with more range, why not?
Agreed! The titanium is definitely better bang for your buck.
Can one safely wire a 110 circuit on a 30amp breaker? Seems like you’d be circumventing the safety factor.
@@rudysaldivar4228 rv plugs are 110v 30a or 50a
As a welder, you have to adjust to the available machine and material all the time.
I`ve never heard a professionel welder say : ""This wire or this machine doesnt`t fit my skill level."
Keep your head down, your hands dirty and learn.
There is a saying for a reason : "Hard work beats talent."
Buy a cheap welding machine, cheap wire, cheapest foldable workmate, some scrap metal and start
pulling stringers in your backyard with a beer beside you.
There is no way, you can cut corners. You have to get experience.
Even to keep your wire in front of your weld puddle and maintain the right drag angle to avoid slag
inclusions will take you weeks and many cases of beer.
You can`t push slag. You have to drag it. It`s for physical reasons.
So you have to learn, how to position your head right to see, what you are doing.
That point alone takes weeks.
The stickout while dragging is very important and you need to learn, to feel it.
There is a sweet spot between no resistance and spattering.
You have to find it with your machine and your wire at the given conditions on that day and welding position.
Thats why we make testwelds and check them.
Take your time and learn , to do it right.
Great videos.
They help beginners.
lots of good tips there!
@@DeathTollRacing Thank you.
I`m slowly working my way into flux core welding. Here in germany, it just get started, to be known by welders.
Another tip, you might think about is preheating your workpice. It feels like you bump up your amperage by 25%.
For thicker material it`s between night and day.
Another point is the preheating of the flux in your wire. With a short stickout like you would do on mig welding,
the flux can`t get the temperature, to do the job. You will get slag inclusions.
Pull some stringers on a piece of scrap with different stickouts.
With no resistence pushing against your gun, the stickout is to short. The flux will run into your weld puddle without getting
burned up and you have a terrible weld.
With cold material or to long stickout, you will get spatter.
On a trainig day in my backyard, i dial the machine in one setup and run hundred stringers side by side on one piece of scrap.
I try different drag angles, different stickouts, different straight pulling speed against whip and pause and so on.
I enjoy a beer, the different weather conditions and after one or two hours, i`m done with no effort.
This teaches me more, than every video can. It`s called experience.
I`ve found a wire, that i like and keep some rolls of it in stock. So i have material, that i know, when i need it.
Because i`m an old dog, i had to buy 6 welding helmets, to find one, where i can see my weld puddle and the workpice.
There are no shops, where you can try different helmets in my area.
So i had to spend money and later sell the helmets, that don`t fit my eyes.
Welding is a never ending learning process. The more experience you`ve got, the more you have to learn.
Keep up your good videos.
Greetings from germany.
When you flipped the wire from one machine to the other the century started sounding like the titanium did on the first test there's something going on with that wire I wonder if it's inconsistent flux?
They were different brands of wire, that’s why I switched, I wanted a fair comparison.
Good job comparing the two.
Thanks!
I got the FC90 a couple months before the Titanium came out. I would probably gone with HF as they have a store close.
Still a good welder though.
So the .035 wire is just better than the .030. Wished I'd known....only bought the .030 with my little toy welder. So all that spatter is normal for the .030 wire. If I got the gas hooked up would that stop all the spatter?
I think the spatter is better with the Lincoln 030 but, still not as good as the Lincoln 035.
Gas might welding definitely has less spatter, but not “none”.
Great video Gavin! Very thorough.
Thanks!
How would it fare if you were welding say a 5 mm plate to 2 mm box section, usually i stick weld these and do a stop start method to avoid blowing through the box section, if i were just welding a stringer i would probably blow through. great videos though, best tuition i have ever seen. thanks, subbed.
Either would work great. I’ve been running the crap out of the titanium welding 1/2” rebar (13mm ish) and has more than enough power, and I have yet to have it thermal protection itself. Im on my 4th roll of wire on that project.
I believe that if your research the duty cycles on welders, you will find that a 30% duty cycle is 3 minutes in 10, as in 3 welding, 7 resting, not 20 minutes on 40 minutes off. 30% is not usually a problem in stick, but can be very limiting in wire feed applications. Thanks for the comparison video.
I changed the ground clamp too a better quality one , but the rest is fine.
I put a magnet one on it recently. Kinda handy, but if I had to buy it directly I don’t know if it’s worth the cost.
Great shootout between the Titanium Flux 125 and Century FC-90! We sent you an email, take a look.
Thanks. I'll check it out.
When welding 3/16 or a higher output, do you think you could still get away with 12gauge 50ft extension?
That’s a good question. I’ve ran it maxed out on that same cord and didn’t have an issue. All the welding in this video (even the thermal test) was done on that cord as well without issue. To be safe a 10g cord wouldn’t be a bad idea, but so far with everything I’ve done I’ve seen no sign of the 12g cord having issues
@@DeathTollRacing ok cool. Thank you. I was out yesterday and picked up a 10gauge cord. Weird thing is they’re only rated at 15amp and the machine is rated up to 23. I don’t think I’m ever gonna crank it high enough to consume that though. Thanks for the reply!!
@@davidpavshak330 I found it seems to only hit 20+ amps on startup momentarily, and tapers out to around 16-18 depending on your wire speed. The higher the wire speed the higher the amps in both input (ac) and output (dc)
The cord jacket on the Titanium Flux 125 is 14g so a 20amp breaker can handle the load. A 50 ft 12g cord is like using the service outlet behind your house...that is 50ft from the breaker box.
I don't understand why anyone would push there's no advantage to it it's clumsy it just doesn't feel right I do push pull when I need extra deep penetration of developed this little method I don't know if if it's a known used talked about method I don't generally go on forums or anything but where I will either go in a little circles so I overlap and get deeper penetration or to a real rapid push pull it gets the joint hot and then super hot but you have to kind of regulate temperature and a slight pause time in order not to overheat the joint. But you can get noticeably better penetration by doing it if there's a need to do that I rarely do it. I do go in little circles all the time and that seems to do kind of the same thing it's like you feel the center of the circle even though it's filled already but to describe the way it overlaps and you actually get a pretty little joint that way but those are all pulls with a little bit of a push when you're going back on the top of the circle for lack of a better terminology little tiny tiny circles make nice joints
Pushing doesn’t penetrate nearly as well. That gives me a video idea actually. Weld in three positions and etch the results. 🤔 Sometimes on thin material it’s helpful to push to avoid burn through.
10:56 On this video and the previous about just the Century 90 you mention doing multiple passes - root and over etc. - to build up the fillet to an acceptable size. To be clear you have to have the correct flux core wire to do multiple passes. A lot of common flux core wire is only single pass. Who knows what will break in the universe if you do multiple passes on a singe pass wire but the egg heads at Lincoln Electric et al. seem to think it matters. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
There is definitely a difference in the wires on if they "can" be multi pass or not. Wires labeled as E71t-gs would be single pass only, but theoretically will be better in a "dirty" environment. E71t-11 are capable to be a multi pass wire. All wires will have this category listed on the package somewhere. Both wires are gasless, just a little bit different. I prefer the e71t-11 99% of the time.
At times you call the Century welder a... Century, Lincoln, Vulcan. Which one is it?
Oh and right after I hit send... You call the Titanium the Vulcan. LOL
Yeah. I recommend trying it sometime. I literally had a piece of paper up towards the end I had to stare at. I’m so bad at names.