All videos I've seen so far were for towing hitches (both 5th Wheel & Gooseneck Ball) and everything else but nothing yet on the brake control both on the trailer side and Pickup Truck side. We have two (2) such trailers (Hackney Super Goose Trailer with dual tires tandem axle) in combo with Chevy C-30 Pickup Truck. The combinations were equipped with "vacuum-hydraulic" brake where the trailer brakes can be set to brake slightly ahead of the Pickup Truck that tend to straighten the combination when the brake is applied even while going on a curve, a very helpful feature in going downhill on a winding roads. Does such brake control for heavy towing only?
The only problem is that your center is on your rear tires instead of the driver tires. If you’ve got a truck that will hold it, good for you. Even most 1 ton dual trucks have limitations in how far back to put the weight. That’s why truckers with movable 5th wheels can usually get away with some loads that stationary 5th wheels just can’t.
@@drrichardpaul I never had an issue. I now have the Reese goose box on my fifth wheel and have a long bed f350. Love this set up more than any fifth wheel hitch I’ve ever had
Setting the 5th wheel behind the rear axle will tend to lift the front wheel especially when going uphill and when starting from stop. The condition (5th wheel far behind the rear axle) will cause the Tractor (Pickup Truck) to exhibit unnecessary "pitching" while laboring during heavy start up from stops, - especially when the 5th Wheel is set far above the pickup bed. The downside however is the tendency to nosedive during braking. The best compromise is to avoid overloading the front axle. Front axle load in no condition should exceed its design capacity "at ground" at maximum allowable 5th Wheel load. The higher however the mounting of 5th Wheel above the bed, the harder the it is to control nose dive and pitching of the tractor (towing pickup truck).
@@RemigioCarabioVillanueva totally agree there. But back when I had this set up, it worked well for me. Now days I use the Reese goose box and love it.
Had the b and w hide a ball hitch in my Dodge. I now have an F350 long wheel base with the puck system I have the B&W fifth wheel Puck system that goes with it. My question is I seen you have the instructions facing the tailgate all of the videos that I've seen have you looking at the 25k B&W logo. Which is the proper way of installing the base?
William, I'd say the standard way is B&W logo to the rear. Mine ended up reversed because I needed the triangle brackets to tilt further rearward in a pinch where I didn't have a torque wrench on me to properly removed and retighten them. As far as I can tell, at least for my model, the base is completely symmetric, so I see no issue either way.
@@williamaymond6709 It's all about clearances. If your camper and truck clearances can support the triangle brackets in the vertical position, that's ideal as it puts the load directly over the axle. In reality, most camper x truck clearances require the brackets to be put in the slightly rearward position to not contact the back glass or truck bumper. When I do my torque check this year before beginning the season, I will be flipping it back around (changing the brackets too) just because I continue to get questions on it.
For the 2020 F250/350 you may need the arms where the hitch will sit further back. This is because, when you have your tailgate down to hook up there is Ike 2" of clearance between the gate and the camper. At least on my rig.
the reese under-bed puck mount, and the B&W hitch legs do not fit together sounds like reese is a FAIL here. as there is supposed to be a "standard" for the four points. does the B&W fit the ford factory under bed puck mounts? maybe just a fail on both company's. adding in too much play
A friend that has from the factory puck system has no issues w/ the B&W. In general, the B&W hitch is one of the few things I've purchased where the build quality exceeded my expectations. They do not seem to be cutting corners. My advice for anyone attempting the Reese after the fact is to leave the main bolts loose until you pin the hitch in place. After I did that and tightened Reese, I've had no issues putting in or removing. I can remove the hitch in under 3 minutes.
The ‘A Frame’ arms are angled so either the load is directly over the axle (ideal) or angled back slightly. When I setup the hitch, I hoped to be able hook up directly over the axle. Unfortunately my truck bumper wouldn’t clear the camper. The base appears to me to completely symmetric. The only difference I could see was stickers, so since I was in an RV parking lot w/o proper tool, I flipped the hitch around. Later I moved the spring to angle the plate correctly. If there is something about the base that isn’t symmetric, let me know and I’ll update.
![30 ชั่วโมงคนเดียว บนรถไฟชั้น 3 โซเวียต [Around The World Ep. 2]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/MlE9boAVqDA/mqdefault.jpg)
Great video! wasn't sure how to setup the hitch. But now I know. I have a 2017 Ford F250. thanks!
Good luck! Hopefully yours came with factory pucks or you have an easier time getting the bed off.... that was nightmare!
All videos I've seen so far were for towing hitches (both 5th Wheel & Gooseneck Ball) and everything else but nothing yet on the brake control both on the trailer side and Pickup Truck side.
We have two (2) such trailers (Hackney Super Goose Trailer with dual tires tandem axle) in combo with Chevy
C-30 Pickup Truck. The combinations were equipped with "vacuum-hydraulic" brake where the trailer brakes can be set to brake slightly ahead of the Pickup Truck that tend to straighten the combination when the brake is applied even while going on a curve, a very helpful feature in going downhill on a winding roads. Does such brake control for heavy towing only?
I set mine the same way. As far back as possible to give more room between the cab and camper. Never had an issue. Love B&W
The only problem is that your center is on your rear tires instead of the driver tires. If you’ve got a truck that will hold it, good for you. Even most 1 ton dual trucks have limitations in how far back to put the weight. That’s why truckers with movable 5th wheels can usually get away with some loads that stationary 5th wheels just can’t.
@@drrichardpaul I never had an issue. I now have the Reese goose box on my fifth wheel and have a long bed f350. Love this set up more than any fifth wheel hitch I’ve ever had
Setting the 5th wheel behind the rear axle will tend to lift the front wheel especially when going uphill and when starting from stop. The condition (5th wheel far behind the rear axle) will cause the Tractor (Pickup Truck) to exhibit unnecessary "pitching" while laboring during heavy start up from stops, - especially when the 5th Wheel is set far above the pickup bed. The downside however is the tendency to nosedive during braking. The best compromise is to avoid overloading the front axle. Front axle load in no condition should exceed its design capacity "at ground" at maximum allowable 5th Wheel load. The higher however the mounting of 5th Wheel above the bed, the harder the it is to control nose dive and pitching of the tractor (towing pickup truck).
@@RemigioCarabioVillanueva totally agree there. But back when I had this set up, it worked well for me. Now days I use the Reese goose box and love it.
Do they have a version where the 5th wheel has replaceable Teflon coated pieces?
Can I ask why you didn't go with the Ford hitch?
When i take the bolts out i get grade 8 nuts and weld them on the heads of the bed bolts and use that and replace them
[Ooooooooooo
Had the b and w hide a ball hitch in my Dodge. I now have an F350 long wheel base with the puck system I have the B&W fifth wheel Puck system that goes with it.
My question is I seen you have the instructions facing the tailgate all of the videos that I've seen have you looking at the 25k B&W logo.
Which is the proper way of installing the base?
William, I'd say the standard way is B&W logo to the rear. Mine ended up reversed because I needed the triangle brackets to tilt further rearward in a pinch where I didn't have a torque wrench on me to properly removed and retighten them. As far as I can tell, at least for my model, the base is completely symmetric, so I see no issue either way.
@@rvengineer2300 I guess as long as the arms are the correct way
@@williamaymond6709 It's all about clearances. If your camper and truck clearances can support the triangle brackets in the vertical position, that's ideal as it puts the load directly over the axle. In reality, most camper x truck clearances require the brackets to be put in the slightly rearward position to not contact the back glass or truck bumper. When I do my torque check this year before beginning the season, I will be flipping it back around (changing the brackets too) just because I continue to get questions on it.
For the 2020 F250/350 you may need the arms where the hitch will sit further back. This is because, when you have your tailgate down to hook up there is
Ike 2" of clearance between the gate and the camper.
At least on my rig.
the reese under-bed puck mount, and the B&W hitch legs do not fit together sounds like reese is a FAIL here. as there is supposed to be a "standard" for the four points.
does the B&W fit the ford factory under bed puck mounts? maybe just a fail on both company's. adding in too much play
A friend that has from the factory puck system has no issues w/ the B&W. In general, the B&W hitch is one of the few things I've purchased where the build quality exceeded my expectations. They do not seem to be cutting corners. My advice for anyone attempting the Reese after the fact is to leave the main bolts loose until you pin the hitch in place. After I did that and tightened Reese, I've had no issues putting in or removing. I can remove the hitch in under 3 minutes.
Hitch base is facing the wrong way. Logo should be facing bed of the truck.
The ‘A Frame’ arms are angled so either the load is directly over the axle (ideal) or angled back slightly. When I setup the hitch, I hoped to be able hook up directly over the axle. Unfortunately my truck bumper wouldn’t clear the camper. The base appears to me to completely symmetric. The only difference I could see was stickers, so since I was in an RV parking lot w/o proper tool, I flipped the hitch around. Later I moved the spring to angle the plate correctly. If there is something about the base that isn’t symmetric, let me know and I’ll update.