The reason to use it is the sensitivity of braid but with a low visibility advantage of fluoro. The FG knot is easy to tie and I personally don’t think the fish are concerned about a piece of line 20’ away. The biggest issue is straight fluorocarbon is a nightmare on a spinning reel. I’ve tried it and it sucks horribly.
I could not agree more. I have tried straight flouro on everything and it always ends the same way. A massive blow-up of line, line twist, loops and F-bombs. Some of my all time best cuss fits have occurred using a spinning reel sans braid. And, I AM CAREFUL. I manually close my bail every time and follow that by pulling the slack out. I try to feather the line going out on every cast with my index finger. Flouro/mono is still gonna twist. I have really tried fishing a jerkbait w/a spinning reel. Always ends the same. A blow up and massive F-bombs. Best of luck with the straight flouro. I'll stick to my yeller braid.
I have issues with it on my baitcasters. I tried to run straight fluoro on my cranking rod. It’s a Denali attack series and I could feel anything. I literally hooked a fish first day with it and didn’t even know till I got it almost to the boat. Not to mention all the casting issues I had. I still run a 20-25’ leader on that setup but with the braid it’s a night and day difference
@@billpatterson6249 tie your floro to something after you spool it. walk back while letting line out a little further than you can cast. Now, stretch the floro line for a minute or two. It really helps with the memory and it's a game changer......for me at least! Tight Lines
My thoughts exactly. Straight Fluorocarbon is a bird nest waiting to happen. I use moss green braid with a 15 foot fluorocarbon leader, which works great on both spinning and casting rigs for jigs, senkos, drop shotting, any slow feel the bite type presentations. The only other line I use is straight monofilament for cast and retrieve type baits like spinnerbaits, crankbaits, top waters, jerk baits, etc..... Mono is much more forgiving than fluorocarbon when casting. It does have more stretch, but that's not necessarily a bad thing.
I just like it because I can change line weight without re spooling my reel. I only have 2 spinning rods so it just gives me alot of versatility. I don't have the money to be changing out my line all the time. That braid lasts me all year. So for me it's convenience and cost savings. I use the Alberto which is pretty easy for me. Also, i like the lack if line twist. But, I couldn't care less what anyone else does. Whatever works for someone works.
Braid to fluoro = No line twist (eliminates bird's nests), longer casts ( more bites), saves money (more $ to spend on fishing), more sensitive (catch more fish by using a "crank set"). Learn how to tie an Alberto knot, use a long leader to avoid braid knot abrasion and you will actually catch more fish than using straight fluoro. I know this through experience. I also know controversy gets more TH-cam hits. Mission accomplished Randy. 🙂
Get good with floro and you never have issues. Complaining about floro is like complaining about backlashing. Braid / leaders is a waste of time. I stay in the water all day. Problem in line, cut it out and move on. My buddy is sitting there reting leaders in the rain 😂
@@cautionfiamable close minded "If I can do it everyone can and should do it just like me" How about you do you. Maybe one day God will bless me with the super powers you have but probably not because I'm a moron who can't get better regardless if I spend my entire life span trying. Remember people like us exist. It's why there are alternatives.
What no one has mentioned is the increased hookset penetration with braid to flouro vs straight flouro. Definitely makes a difference. I enjoy the increased sensitivity in finesse situations. The longer casts are an asset in heavily pressured waters. The idea that my line is spooking fish and keeping them from biting may carry some merit, but we run trolling motors and sound producing electronics. So the farther I can cast, with better hookset percentage, and most importantly I have confidence in it.
@@Mbtharp1 Old? The guy is only 50 yo. I'm 52 and have fished mono of every type most of my life. I've also used fluorocarbon extensively. Apart from a tiny few drawbacks, nothing competes with a braid and fluorocarbon leader in the hands of an experienced angler. Amongst the extensive experience that I have, is also the experience of practically all long-time anglers throwing their poorly reasoned confirmation biases into their genuine hard won knowledge. They assume their guesses of multiple variables that they don't have solid evidence for are correct by sheer dint of their experience, and not just a subjective shot in the dark. This guy is a classic case of that. He favours straight flouro, good for him, but it's a biased opinion based on limited subjective experience. I specialise in fishing for bass (sea bass) here in Ireland and a number of traditional long held beliefs about what "spooks them" in regards to end-tackle used has turned out to be mostly bullshit, from hard evidence. Certain species of fish have broad habits, but the number of variables that govern exactly what they do are constantly in flux. Experience counts for a lot, but astute awareness of provable facts counts for more.
Braid pros for me 1) Can respool lees often 2) No memory issues 3) Limited space on the kayak and can make less rods work for more things by changing leader size 4) More sensitive Cons 1) Breaking off and having to put on new leader 2) Apparently scaring fish and less bites 3) doesn’t come through guides as easy
I don’t think you’re scaring fish, especially with moss green. Also, I haven’t broken off a leader since learning the FG knot. It’s a game changer. And you barely notice it coming through the guides
@@Mbtharp1I think it matters in very clear water. That being said, I use straight braid on most my spinning setups because the water I fish is pretty heavily stained.
@@bevobevo2915 i hear this one lol, basically went to bass pro, couldnt find moss green, so i asked an employee if they had any braid that is colored like sewage. He kinda gave me this look like "Where the f are you fishing?" . My river might as well be a sewage despite being very, very long. There is no concerns about someone taking fish from it. Its a catch and release only because no one trusts the fish in this river to be safe lol.
@@bevobevo2915 I think it matters too, but to what degree? Mbtharp was responding to Skunko5000, who listed being able to use leaders as a strength. Are you saying that in clear water that braid is absolutely ineffective even with a 20' leader. I don't believe that is correct.
if you tie the FG knot correctly it will absolutely not break. After youve tied it over and over it is not hard to tie either, Youre weaving the line. when you watch someone else tie it it looks hard, but really isnt. I honestly cannot remember ever breaking an FG knot and if i did it was when i first started tying it and was tied incorrectly. I feel braid to leader has many benefits over straight fluoro. Its much easier to manage on the spool, you can use different sized lines just by retying the leader, its much cheaper, hooksets on long casts seem better etc. Its all personal preference though. But to say someone is going to break an FG knot that is tied correctly ,I dont think so. The lines going to break before the knot slips. Alot of guys use it because of the many benefits.
FG is a standard with me from braid to mono leader.… in the surf,...I have a 20’/25’ top shot/ shock leader on all of my multiplier reels for the surf, ... Baitcasting for bass is enough over hand and wrapped around the spool 2/3 times, ... The FG knot works so smoothly through the guides… it's as slick as slug snot, ....this knot has never failed me.… I’ve only cracked off when I try to whip the shit out of my 12’ heaver but the FG knot and braid is never the weak point… FG is slick as slug snot.… thing about fluoro, ... whatever works for you, ... I don't miss out on many fish..! 👌😎🤙
I think braid to fluoro is good in clear water on pressured bass but not necessary. My favorite knot for it is the Crazy Alberto knot. Much faster than the FG and its 90% as clean.
Every time I try straight fluorocarbon I get nothing but a mess. Knots, line twist, and birds nest. I’ve tried a few different brands and same frustration. I personally know guys that use braid to fluorocarbon and catch thousands of smallmouth each season. I usually agree with your opinions, but not so much on this one.
Yes, floro is a skill issue for most people. Complaining about how floro handles is like complaining about backlashing. Get good and it almost never happens. Youre a floro noob, what do you expect?
@@cautionfiamableI cannot get the fluoro to stay spooled up tight on the reel....it always fluffs up, Fluoro has line memory, so how do you prevent it from wanting to straighten?
@jw-lk1pe i use higher end shimano or daiwa spinning reels. Usually 4000 size. The larger spool diameter helps. I also use quality soft floro like tatsu. 12lb is about as high as i go. Then switch to hybrid. reel spool it face up.
Yep double uni knot is the best unless your going from smaller diameter braid to big FC like 80lb then a Albright or one of its variations. Or FG if you want to waste time LOL 😂😂😂
@@BassManStrikes I can tie an FG in about a minute. I tie enough leader I can retie several times before I have to tie another leader. If I have to retie in windy / bad conditions I'll use a uni to uni. FG doesn't really waste time, its a better knot but sometimes its just too tough with rocking boats, wind, and my old man eyes... I pull in fish on 10lb braid with 20lb leader that would swallow a bass whole.
Just use straight braid and call it good. Fewer bites? I dunno. Consider that we know bass will hit an unpainted rectangular block of wood with some hooks hanging off of it, and that they routinely hit all sorts of gadgets with spinners, propellers, metal flaps and clangers, etc. that don't look a darn thing like anything that does or - even could - exist in nature. And yet despite that, somehow a few inches of line is the thing that's going to scare them off? Having a hard time buying it. Then again, I very rarely fish in crystal clear water. Most of my bass fishing has always been in heavily tannin stained "blackwater" creeks and rivers, or farm ponds. If I were fishing in places with water with 20 ft of visibility instead of 4 inches, maybe I would have a different position on this, based on experience. But plain braid has always worked fine for me.
And with a good tide FG knot it does not come undone and when I get caught on something I pull and I break off mi or I still have my FG knot tied to my leader.
With the diameter of say 10 lb test braid having the same diameter of 4 lb test mono there's really no reason you can't use straight braid. The bass are only focused on the lure. Last year I did try braid/floro and lost more bass on setting the hook than I did when using straight braid. Unless you are fishing highly pressured or crystal clear water there's no reason you can't fish straight braid. On a side note I did see a video where somebody put some hooks on a GoPro camera and caught a bass. If they are hungry they will bite anything.
Randy, as always, thank you for the time and energy you spend to bring us this fishing information. As a 95% fly fisherman/5-10% spin casting/bait fishing my life has revolved around tying leaders to fly line with an overwhelming number of variations depending on target species, types of water, water conditions, etc. Quite frankly it is exhausting. And you are right, dealing with knot tying over 50 is a PIA. I have played the flouro vs braid game on spinning/baitcasting rods. I can appreciate the numerous comments below about the frustration with straight fluoro and it's memory causing frequent line messes and hours of frustration for many anglers. COULD YOU PLEASE DO A FOLLOW-UP VIDEO ON TIPS AND TRICKS TO AVOID LINE TANGLING, TWISTS AND MESSES WITH STRAIGHT FLUORO. It would be much appreciated. Thank you.
I wouldn't recommend a beginner to do it or someone who doesn't like to retie but. If u know ur lines and ur rods and how they correlate to one another and what type of line would work best with that rod but. I personally haven't had any issues with braid to leader and don't think it has cost me any bites at all cause. I'm catching fish that other people aren't in my area or literally fishing right near someone and I'm smacking em and there not. An I've used in crystal clear water where trout are stocked and smacked the hell em there to and my best day on swimbaits was at that lake with braid to leader.
Well hey if Randy is so correct then can you tell me how an earth do I use straight fluorocarbon or straight monofilament on my baitcaster without getting phrase or bird nests in my real when I cast and when I literally try to prevent bird nests!!!?????
@@silentnight2292 Setting your reel brakes correctly will help tremendously. Tighten your spool brake all the way...hold the rod at the 2 o'clock position and press the thumb bar. When set correctly when the lure hits the ground there should be very little overrun at the spool. As for the centrifugal brake on the left side of the reel...when I started using a baitcaster I had mine turned all the way up and over time I've gotten to where I can back it off about half way. I'm sure there are others with better advice. Good luck and tight lines.
That’s what I don’t get … Like there are unnatural things about certain rigs and lures … Bass can be caught with a Barbie head with a treble hook on it …
My buddy and I caught 30 and 50 on consecutive days this weekend on pressured lake....all my fish were caught on braid to flouro....no problems ....I did break off a few times...the FG never failed it either broke at the lure or the line broke...why not just say this is what works for me...as for yellow line and clear water...i grew up out west a trout fisherman both spinning and fly fishing..flyline is yellow the leader is 9 to 12 feet and the water is gin clear and shallow....and caught a ton of fish 🤔
Agreed. I have been using braid to go fluoro for more than a decade. Have never lost a fish at the FG knot. Neither have I lost a rig because of a failed FG knot when snagged badly, every failure was at the hook knot or swivel. FG knots are stronger than any other knot of a fluoro and hardly ever fail if tied properly.
Bass feel the presence of your line regardless of the size or visibility. It's really amazing they bite at all. For what it's worth I just use 8 lb mono on spinning reels and never lose fish. I feel the bites fine too. I think you just gotta do what works best for you with your budget and fish and water. FWIW I don't like using leader knots either.
This is the answer. Whatever works for you! I’m also in the camp that straight mono/flouro is better for SOME situations while braid is better for others.
Recently switched my baitcasters from braid to fluoro, to just straight fluoro to try it out. I was definitely in the category of new to fishing when I set up braid to fluoro and was told it was the way to go. Made the change to form my own opinion on it. Excited to experiment and get a idea of what I like better. What you said in this video makes a lot of sense to me though.
Fluorocarbon is better if you fish all the time but if you only go fishing once a month the memory in fluoro is gonna curl your line and cause you to backlash more which sucks
That happens to me even when I'm fishing 2 or more times a week. FC just seems to have too much memory for me to safely fish it as my main line on baitcaster or, maybe even especially, on spinning gear. Forget how expensive line is, I'll go into the poor house buying line conditioner. 😒
I believe the fish feel the line in the water regardless of type, unless it is not moving at all. I use braid because I don't like respooling due to memory. I don't fish all the time and braid just makes more sense to me, but I think fish just don't care overall.
Fishermen from Malaysia. This is my opinion and experience. I use yellow braided line with FC leader on FG knot, for both my Casting and Spinning setup for throwing lures targeting Snakehead and Peacock Bass. Never a problem. The FG knot never fails if tied properly, it is always the mainline breaking first or the FC leader gets bitten or abrasion from gill plates and rocks. I used to fill spools with dark green or black lines so fish wouldn't see line but it really didn't make much or any noticeable difference. I prefer to use bright color lines like Yellow, Red or Blue so it would be easy to track where my line is both when casting lures and when fighting fish in grassy waters, especially during low light conditions. The reason I prefer FC leader is that it cast further (smoother) than Mono and is relatively invisible underwater. FG knot takes practice and patience. Before mastering FG, I was using Albright to connect braid to mono but the bulky knot affects my casting distance and accuracy as the knot bumps the guide rings during the cast. Again, these are my experience. Peace.
I started using braid to flouro (or mono) about 6 years ago, when I first tried ned rigging. I fish natural lakes in MN which aren't clear except early spring. What surprised me and ended up hooking me to this line/leader combo was how often I would "see" the bite long before I could feel it. Those bass so often would pick up the jig and swim sideways or towards the boat... and I felt absolutely nothing. But I could see the bright yellow or green line start moving and was able to react accordingly. I tried fishing a ned this last summer on a spinning rig with 8lb straight flouro, and it was a horrible experience, like I was fishing blind! I get my rods rigged up prior to fishing usually with an FG knot, but if I break off or my knot fails while fishing, I can easily tie a crazy alberto to a new leader, even in the wind. And with the low visibility of some of the lakes I fish (2-5 ft), I'll often use a mono leader, which seems to hold knots better for me. Had up to 65 bass caught by myself in less than 5 hours with such a setup. So for me the key is enhanced bite detection, the lowered cost of braid is gravy.
I agree with you about fish being able to seeing braided line, esp the bright stuff! I've experimented quite a bit with that. BUT, I use an 8-12 foot leader of green power pro with a mono or flouro leader, tied with just back to back uni knots. I jerbbait fish largemouth with this in the midwest and have caught dozens and dozens of bass over 5 pounds with this combo and really never have breakoffs at the knot. I have also caught dozens of smallmouth between 4 and 7 lb's in the great lakes fishing the same setup, with jerks and with stuff like ned rigs. They don't spook from the green Power Pro that is 10 feet away. The advantages with this are way longer casts, much better hooksets at the end of long casts, increased sensitivity on longer casts and very little issues with coils on the spool. Plus, you could literally not change your line for years and be okay with that stuff (just change the leader). Spooling all up with flouro isn't as good of an option in my opinion. The use of baitcasting gear brings up different things but for spinnng the above is what I believe works best! (I go either all braid or all flouro in most instances with baitcasting gear)...
I switched to straight fluorocarbon and got line twist. But you are a blessing to beginning anglers like me because I just found your video on how to not get line twist on straight fluoro! Thank you so much Mr. Blaukat! I caught a HUGE trout in my local bass lake on a drop shot rig and I 1000% think that this fish bit the big finesse worm in the brightly lit shallows because I wasn't using braid as usual, AND it was just like you said! I let that fish tug my line and that stretch worked beautifully at hooking that fish effortlessly. Trout are line shy too and that sold it to me. I even got a TINY PERCH to bite a Zman Trickshotz drop shot bait that was about 2/3ds it's size on the same day. I will never go back. The casting distance increase is also negligible. I can SEND baits on straight fluoro. God bless you Randy Blaukat!
I'm not a tournament fisherman but I do fish a LOT! After years of fishing mono, stepping up to flouro, I switched to braid a couple years ago. I fish straight Power Pro (moss green), no leader. Now I admit I may be too set in my ways but I primarily only fish jig, large plastic worms, and top water. I catch tons of fish on these three and never have had the need to vary away from them. Having said that, I have found that not only do I detect more bites on braid, I also have a higher hookup and landing ratio with it. I think one factor that is missed in the debate of braid vs flouro is the fact that regardless of which one you use, your technique of fishing it has to be adjusted. For example, I learned that the hook set with braid is not accomplished with an aggressive set that is afforded on flouro. You can definitely rip the hook out of a fishes mouth easily because of the lack of stretch. Another thing is that with added sensitivity of braid, setting the hook to quick can be an issue. Just means I had to adjust a bit and be more patient before getting the hook set. As far as the debate on fish being able to see the braid? I don't care if they do or not when I am having more success putting fish in the boat using it! Yes bass are smart but I seriously doubt they see a line in the water and panic because they don't want to get caught! lol I guess what I'm getting at is that there are tons of different opinions on this topic but it all boils down to what you are comfortable with and what works for you. You may totally disagree with my reasons for using braid and I certainly respect that. If something else works better for you then thats what you should be doing. We are all different.
Unfortunately he doesn't respect you or me. He says as much in the video. Dudes a hypocrite. Hopefully no one using braid even considers switching to fluro bc it's different from person to person
@@rileymcgill9893 I don't think he was knocking braid. I think it was more about using a fluorocarbon leader with braid. I agree with him, this is unnecessary. I use dark green braid (15-20lb not 50lb) most of the time and have no problems what so ever.
Same...yes man, there are actual anglers out here that do shit based on logic and knowledge. However, we are rare. The vast majority of bass fisherman today watch some dude on TH-cam trying to sell them something that's completely pointless and fall for it hook, line and sinker everytime. (No pun intended) Then they will argue you down about it when you tell them it's pointless like they're some kind of expert. 😂
Randy I can't say your advice is any more or less helpful than any other influencers on TH-cam,but you are the best of all at starting debates and at times rubbing your viewers the wrong way with your opinions.I have actually grown to like your new channel much better as it is (thus far at least) all fishing tips without the opion pieces.
For the conditions I fish-crystal clear Ozarks creeks for smallmouth-10 lbs braid to a 6-8 lbs flouro leader, 12 feet long, is the only way to go. It doesn’t matter if it’s a spinning rod or bait caster. Edit: I should add, I fix the issue of not having give in the line by only using medium or medium-light rods.
By "I have no problem catching tons of fish", do you mean you have no need to catch more or do you mean you often fish with anglers using leaders and you always or often outfish them, or do you mean something else entirely? Because there are a lot of factors in catching fish. For all we know, you may be like NDYakAngler. I've watched 100 videos of him slaying fish on beautiful bodies of water and there is never another angler around. It's amazing really. And to add insult to injury, he catches numbers of what would be considered trophy smallmouth in Kansas, with a Chewbacca lure with no action whatsoever. Anyway, the point is without a comparison under similar conditions on the same body of water, there is no way to know how many fish you're missing even if you're catching them at a 50% catch to cast ratio. Someone else might have caught them at 80%
I think his ulterior motive is to increase sales of fluoro line..... If people through their fluoro birdsnests in the water, Randy might rethink things.
@FullTimeFishing he's right about the benefits. Not having a leader knot, mainly. But I've never had a leader knot break, and it outweighs the amount of line twist and "loops" that are such a pain in the neck. Line management is the reason I use braid to flouro
@@bucknuts8824 I find this video and comments very informative. I am a senior citizen who's just getting back into serious fishing. Although I used straight braid to lure when fishing salmon in MI 25 yrs ago, I've never used B2L before. My older bro in NC and next door neighbor here in WI both use B2L and swear by it. I've mostly fished streams for trout and smallmouth but recently fished bass with straight expensive fluorocarbon and had many frustrating line twists. Maybe it's time for a change. Cheers!
I’ve fished braid to floro for nearly a decade at this point. Tried fishing straight floro again last year and it’s too much of a pain and expensive. I use the blood knot on all my leaders for spinning and baitcasters; never had the knot fail me. Highly recommend trying that knot. TacticalBassin uses the blood knot as well, that’s why I started using it lol
I use the Alberto it’s a lot easier to tie and I haven’t had too many line breaks unless I’m not paying attention I even do this with fly line I’ll slap either straight fluoro or a top mono with fluoro dropping in size I can tell the difference with how the fish react in higher pressure areas they don’t bite as much when they see the line
I like it because I do not have to re-spool as often and loose the spinning reel line twist issues. I used to fish local tournaments with an older fisherman we fished against. Normally we were fishing for second when he showed up. He kicked our butts all the time fishing straight 50+ pound braid on everything. We asked him want that scare the fish? He said how else is the fish going to find your bait.
Before there was braid I learned to suicide finesse fish from a guy that won the Bassmaster Classic a few decades ago, his name? Guido Hibdon. He fished a light spinning rig with 8 pound mono or copolymer line in places most folks would have been using a heavy flipping set up with 50 pound braid these days. His theory behind it? You’ve got to get bit then worry about getting them to the boat, just like Randy said. He made this what seemed impossible combination work by simply applying light pressure on the fish and waiting on it swim out of the cover. Their natural instinct is to go to deeper water to get away. I’ve done this for decades and can count on one hand the number of fish I’ve broken off. None of the larger fish I’ve caught ever broke off. That being said, line selection does plays an important part. I used Bass Pro Shops Excel in 8 pound clear. Why? I was given a sample spool in 8 pound and I put it on my finesse spinning rig to fish a tournament on Fork. I flipped a 4 inch Texas rigged finesse worm into a bed of hydrilla and hooked a 3 to 4 pound largemouth and it balled up in that stuff and I couldn’t get it to come out. I finally decided to break it off and move on. I wrapped the line around my hand and started pulling and I pulled the fish and a ball of hydrilla bigger than the fish out and almost straightened the hook. I got the fish. It’s all about line selection.
I save a ton of coin in lures using straight braid with a thin wire jig. I can bend that hook 50 times on stumps and rocks before loosing it. Casting is important when finish from the shore of the river. I agree that mono /fluorocarbon only in the boat works good but shore fishing or jigging vertical, I have always hooked up more walleyes using 8lb Fireline. Worked very well for me in the past yet all to their own. If you want more fish, it simply boils down to spending time fishing, knowing where to fish, what rigs work and keeping your lines in the water. If you know the spot and how to fish it, you will know how to avoid all the snags and get the fish too. Fished bass a lot when I was a child and the amount of time you spend on bass is better spent fishing for small mouth, panfish, perch, pike and walleye. They all taste better, and you can get your children to appreciate the sport a lot more because the shorter learning curve, cost and casting skills don't prevent you from being able to get started quick. A bass boat is the most useless boat out in water where you will have an occasional 3 or 4 ft wave. They are cool but just about worthless as a trout or walleye fishing tool when you have to go into a real river or lake. To all your own.
To really blow your mind lol....I've fished mono my whole life. I've been fishing with 2 friends for a long time who, for a couple years now, have been using braid. One uses straight braid with no leader, as do his kids. One uses braid to a mono leader. We are fishing in a murky lake and primarily weightless with senkos. We all catch the same amount of fish. I never would've believed it with out being there.
P-Line Floroclear is pretty good stuff ! Fluorocarbon coated co-polymer . Casts like mono , and invisible . I use it for mainline and leader line in different situations! Can retie with a palomar knot too without knot cutting it self ! I don’t like tying a knot with 3 standing ends ! I fish primarily in Florida and Floro knots catch grass to much !
Randy I agree with you on its fish catching advantages, but I think the reason most use it is due to braid having a longer lifespan on a reel. Flouro wears down faster. The only applications it makes sense for are if you need it to float (for top water) or you need increased sensitivity. But I’ve never understood the sensitivity part for Bass Fishing. I fish Lake St. Clair and the Bass in my lake like to murder whatever you throw at them so the sensitivity part is pointless. I use braid for vertical jigging Walleye on the Detroit and St. Clair rivers only because it’s paramount that I can detect bottom.
Consider yourself lucky that your bass are so aggressive. They’re lazy turds much of the time here will just inhale it and not move. It can be tough to tell sometimes when they hit, especially if it’s windy and choppy.
I crank with straight fluoro and use it on my jerkbait rod. That’s it. I just don’t want to respool every rod, every season. I can also switch from 12 to 20lb leader depending on the situation. FG knot isn’t hard. There’s a very boat friendly version of it you can watch on TH-cam. Also Seth Fieder’s version is slip proof. I’ve fished Mohave and Havasu with it and had no issue getting bit. It makes sense to use straight fluoro in certain situations and it also makes sense to use straight braid. For everything else... there’s braid to fluoro or braid to mono(which I also love doing in certain situations).
I don’t disagree with any of your arguments but I will continue to use braid to fluorocarbon for environmental reasons. Fluorocarbon is an ecological nightmare (both in its manufacturing and slow rate of deterioration). Replacing 15’ of leader is better than replacing 80 yards of that nasty stuff. Also, I find I get much longer use from braid, allowing me to use less of it. Leaving less of a negative impact on our environment is an advantage. Will it cost me bites? Maybe, but I can live with that.
@@w12p67 Braided line needs to be changed less often. I only need to swap it out twice a season. Straight fluoro needs to be changed monthly. Less is more.
I somewhat agree although the other advantage you didn't mention is the hookset on a long cast. I've found that on topwater straight braid floats better and is in essence an advantage because your lure will have the proper action with the line floating. Use Fluorocarbon on something like a frog or a stick bait or popper and it sinks killing the action. I think there's a time and a place for braid to fluorocarbon. I use it throwing large swimbaits and I usually put about a 25 foot leader of 20 pound Fluorocarbon with 65 pound test braid main line. I think its an advantage *sometimes. Theres always a time and a place for any strategy or tactic and to completely write it off is kinda narrow minded. With the bigger heavier hooks on a swimbait, the sensitivity and low stretch allows much better feel for when to set the hook and gives the leverage needed on a super long cast to hook the fish and keep it pinned with heavy pressure with such a large bait. I've hooked and lost fewer bass (and ones that count) fishing large swimbaits on braid to fluorocarbon than I ever did with straight fluorocarbon or mono. I never use braid to fluorocarbon on a spinning reel. No need. It's usually fluorocarbon or copolymer, the latter being my favorite due to its higher knot strength and having a bit of stretch. In other words, depending on what or how I'm fishing dictates what type of line and what gear I'm using, just like rod and reel setup. To completely write it off limits you as an angler. I guess it's all personal preference and to each their own.
While I do agree 100% of what You're saying . . . I have some 'but's'. 100% fluro on a spinner is expensive and a pain to manage. You need to change the fluro more frequently if you spool up 100%. Think 'Slinky Nightmare'. I don't fish tournaments, so 'every bite' isn't critical to me. Braid to fluro is convenient. Most of my lakes / waters have stained or dirty water so stealth concerns aren't a factor. I do fish straight fluro on jerks & cranks, chatter baits, spinerbaits etc. But on a light spinning rod application . . . there are some definite benefits of braid to fluro for the non-tournament angler.
Why not the best of both worlds . I fill my spool halfway with 10lb braid & then anothe 50-80 yards of 8lb fc & I get the same advantages saving a lot of money
This is the way. I guess this would be braid backing instead of what Randy is talking about but I’m 100% with you. Even made a video saying the exact same thing!
Used to go braid to floro all the time, got pretty good with the fg knot. Closest I get lately is old braid as backing and about 100 yards of floro. Floro is expensive.
90% agree with 100% of what you’ve said 😂 I love straight braided line with no leader at all for jerk baits, poppers, and most hard baits. You’re going for a fast instinctive reaction bite as opposed to a slow retrieve natural presentation bite. The fish’s own action of biting then a gentle pull of the rod often sets the hook without some overt theatrical hook set. Not to mention less work on the rod and your arm after an entire weekend of fishing. In the end there is no argument. Always use what you’re comfortable with as an angler and whatever gets those bites for ya.
I have found no disadvantage using braid to leader on my spinning rods. On my baitcast I primarily used straight fluoro, except for my bait finesse type setups I use braid to fluoro.
Respect your opinion, but I'll still continue to fish braid to whatever. Changing 10ft of fc or mono if needed isn't hard. A LOT less expensive then respolling my reels so I have full reels. Don't have $$$ to buy lots of fc to change often. But if you're sponsored so be it. I'll save my money on fc for my forward facing sonar......lmao
Good Evening Mr. Randy, I enjoyed this video on Braid to Fluorocarbon as you discussed on this topic. I respect your insight when you go into detail on ALL your video's! 🙂Keep up the awsome footage! Sincerely, Mr. Carl J. Gwizdala aka "Desperado."
That's true for freshwater fishing you don't necessarily need that set up but for saltwater fishermen I suggest you apply that technique braid to mono or fluoro,it makes a huge difference.
This was awhile ago but I think he was making a point that the connection would be a weak point. My point is that catching 100# fish with braid to fluorocarbon and using snaps disproves this weakness issue. The same goes for using a drag and not back reeling. Its not 1973 and we're not using Mitchell 300s anymore. I use my Vanford 3000s for bass and saltwater species. No back reeling.
Had the biggest strike on a lure I think I’ve ever felt last night, set the hook, line snapped at my superbly tied FG knot… just my braid and my dreams drifting in the wind back to me. All I could think about was this video. Defining moment. Whatever I do next, straight braid or straight fluoro. Heck, even straight mono could possibly be more secure. I never want to risk missing a fish like that again.
Here's a detail you fail to mention to 99.9% of your base audience is the cost of a decent flouro. It's not a con to you because I'm sure BaitWRX is giving you a healthy discount. COST. A spool of braid will last me 2 seasons fishing 2 to 3 times a week. Flouro may last 2 or 3 months and at 40 bucks a re-spool for a good flouro....I'll stick to braid/leader. I will agree for moving baits it's a little stiff but for bottom baits it saves me a significant amount of money. We aren't all Pros Randy.
I think there is a misconception when it comes to line selection. I don’t think braid to fluorocarbon is a hype. I think many anglers just don’t know why they are using it. Tackle balance is very important! Fluorocarbon: (its invisibility underwater), (ability to sink) and (low stretch). Running straight fluorocarbon(baitcaster only) is good for crankbaits, jerkbaits and weightless soft plastic lures because the line can sink. Other fishing line materials will float or take a long time to sink. But running straight fluorocarbon on spinning reels is difficult due to line twisting caused by rotation of bail. Braid: (thin in diameter), (zero stretch), (sensitive) and (less abrasion resistance). It is good for long distance casting and ability to have extra line on reel. I would never recommend running straight braid to lure because it can shock and snap when setting hook. So how to prevent shock & snap from happening? This can be prevented by tying a shock leader. It can be fluorocarbon/nylon. Nylon is the best shock absorber but it can be seen slightly underwater. (If fish are not finicky, tie to nylon. If fish are finicky, tie to fluorocarbon) + (tie to fluorocarbon if you’re fishing sinking lures). My Experience: whether you are running straight fluorocarbon or braid to fluorocarbon for finicky fish, result is the same. The fish will not turn away from your lure just because there is colored line 6 feet away from the lure. My experience of this comes from my fishing for Siberian Taimen, Chinook & Golden Dorado. These fishes are extremely sensitive to line. (This is just my experience so please don’t take it to heart). FYI, I’m a bass fisherman too. Knot Issue: What is the best knot to connect leader line? I think the knot will be the one you are comfortable with and have mastered. I say this because you can tie the strongest knot claimed by people but if you don’t tie it right, it will come undone. I personally use FG knot/PR knot because the knot goes through my guides smoothly. Tip for anglers who use FG knot. The FG is only tight(100% strength) when the braid on the knot changes color. Many anglers don’t tighten the knot until it changes to a darker color, that’s why it slips. If FG breaks, usually means wrong tying method which has injured the line. Ripping lure out of fish mouth: This is actually very common with braid(zero stretch) and fluorocarbon(low stretch), not just braid. If you using braid or fluorocarbon setup for cranks/jerkbait, use a softer top section rod. This allows the rod to bend when the fish takes providing the delay needed. Another method is using monofilament. Monofilament has a good amount of stretch but it sinks slow. Extra tip: Fluorocarbon users, After you put fresh new line on your spool, place the spool in a small container of warm water. This will help the fluorocarbon memory coil to build up fast and eliminate bird nest. I hope my explanation could help you guys in some areas. Sorry for my broken English. My first language isn’t English.
I'll stick with my braid to flourocarbon. Less line twists, better sensitivity, lasts longer than just flouro alone. If I usually break a fish off its at the knot on the end of the line and not at the braid/flouro connection and yes that's because I'm too lazy re-tie. I used to fish flouro only and I can honestly say my bites and land ratios went up when I switched to braid/flouro. That's just me experience. I think everyone should try both ways and compare for themselves. Use what works.
It’s definitely much more sensitive than straight fluoro. I used to use straight fluoro, now I use braid with an FG to a fluoro leader. I initially did it to save money, but couldn’t see myself going back now because of the sensitivity and ease of hooksets especially on longer casts.
No hate here. Just my reasons why I do….8 out of 10 of my rods are braid to floro including all my spinning rods. Here is my list of why I use this set up. #1 I don’t want to change out my floro line 2 to 3 times a year. To expensive. #2 If you tie your B2L knot correctly you don’t need to re-tie it during a day of fishing. Re-tie at home the night before #3 Very Very rarely have a broken out at my B2L knot. When I snag and pull to break off, it’s always at my knot to my lure. #4 I don’t use high-vis braid for some reasons Randy said. #5 I don’t have $400 Megabass rods so having braid makes my set up more sensitive #6 You won’t lose more fish because of the lack of stretch because if you have your drag set right and you are using the right rod you’re good. #7 FG knot is great ONLY if you tie it 100% perfect. I use the Alberto knot and it never fails. #8 You can go from swimming a small swimbait to a bottom contact ned rig on the same line set up. 15lbs braid to 8lb floro cover 90% of what I through. And you CAN throw a jerkbait with this. Next time you bring out client for a jerkbait lesson you should fish the whole day with B2F while you client fishes with floro and see you lands more for science.
This is great! And haha I’d wager the professional bass fisherman would catch more than his clients if he was using a friggen ice fishing rod. All it proves is that experience matters more than what fishing line you’re using.
After years of fishing, I've tried it all. Spent a pretty penny on all variations of line usage. I found that the best set up is braid to a fluoro or mono leader. It gives you all the advantages with minimal drawbacks. With this set up, you get sensitivity, the line by the lure is basically invisible, great hook up ratios, save money on line, you can fish every water situation without changing setups, and you get some stretch with the leader when fighting big fish. As reference, i bought 20lb braid with 17lb fluoro, 100-150yrd spool each. Spooled my baitcaster up with the braid and use a 10-20ft fluoro leader. These two spool lasted 5 yrs without having to buy anymore line. With my set up, I've caught fish just as well and even better than my family and friends, who use straight mono or fluoro, in every type of water clarity. There are drawbacks that i should mention. You have to use a good braid to leader knot or risk breaking your leader off (since using the FG knot I have never broken a leader). Your casting feels a little bit clunky due to the leader knot (even with the FG knot you can feel it going through your guides now that micro guides are the norm). Every now and then you have to retie your leader. A poor leader knot can get caught in the guides during a cast (if you make aure ypu skills at leader knots are top notch, wont be an issue) If you want to save even more money, you can spool half your reel with mono, then braid with the leader. This can stretch your line even longer. Personally i didn't like this variation. It became too problematic for me aince it's all guess work and often times i would cast all the braid out and be in the mono. Also the knot in the spool from mono to braid messes with the spool when its free spinning during the cast so it hurts your casting distance and feels off. For me, it was a no brainer to go braid with a fluoro leader.
For my part, I just don't like the sound of the knot passing through the guides. I use a double uni knot which is relatively small but still the knot against the guides is very noticeable. Now I just use straight mono or fluorocarbon.
Given what he said about streaching and If price is a factor, why not go mono? I am not being sarcastic I am trying to learn. I used mono my whole life and want to give braid a try.
Absolutely right, I'm an sea surfcasting/ spining fisherman since young, one of the first rules I learned with the older fisherman at the time, NEVER underestimate the fish, soon our baits, weights, hooks, lures and lines hit the water, they will be in contact in the FISH environment, keep it simple, including the baits presentation as simple as possible. Another rule, if you fish at the sea on the verge of a rock casting near or far in calm and clear water, your presence will spook the fish, specially the biggest fish, only the bait fish will not go to far from you, anyway, cast from a reasonable distance or behind a rock for example. Line colours and braids are important too, if you can fish with line colours matching the waters colour or transparent lines in conttact with water. Keep all the fishing gear as simple as possible.
Best thing I have found is to let your line out behind your boat when slowly idling your big motor or your trolling motor and let it straighten out in the water prior to starting a fishing day if possible. Doesn’t prevent it from twisting again throughout the day but it will start it out nice and straight
I've watched Randy's other video on spooling fluorocarbon and recommended reel size not being difficult just not doing something right lol fishing shouldn't be 3 cast 10 minutes of line picking ect then 3 or 4 more cast
Sorry Randy but I am not about to stop tying leaders on my spinning gear. I have been doing it for 12 years. I only have 2 spinning combos so I like the versatility. Also you do not need the FG unless you are flipping. Lasty, and I jinxing myself, I haven't had my leader break at the knot in many years.
I never paid to much attention to the braid or no braid argument and I use braid to leader exclusively because im on a budget and it seriously helps out...both sides of the argument makes complete sense and everyone should use what fits the best for them and I am really at a loss why people get so offended by this, it's insane!
I’m thinking of switching back to straight fluorocarbon, I’ve had the fg knot fail a bunch of times, but I do like the sensitivity and castability of braid to fluorocarbon
I've had some braid to fluoro failures as well. I'm sure I failed in tying the knot. Since I've down sized my line stregth (15lb braid to 8-12lb fluro leader) the uni to uni is much smaller and I have zero issues with it. Yes, it is not as strong as an FG, but I can tie it in a minute.
Fish in the NW nothing but clear water. I love braid to flouro. Sensitivity is off the chart on finesse techniques and great for casting those small baits. I agree about thr FG knot use Alberto knot . I can tie that knot while running the trolling motor if I have to.
@@jimb3457 nope very few twist or loops. U said spincast, I’m talkin bout spinning/ open face. I always click my bail over n straighten the line out right after the cast. That helps prevent twist
@@clay7514 Yeah....spin not baitcast. We're talking about the same thing. I'll give it a try the next time I load my spinning reels. Never considered mono, and it's so cheap....thanks for the tip.
I started using braid to fluorocarbon because it helps my wife and son see and manage the line better. Then I realized it helped me a little bit except for jerkbait fishing.
i agree with most of what you had to say here today, but 1 significant factor that you overlooked is PRICE. I can run the same 15# braid all year long and swap out a 15-20' floro leader for a lot cheaper than I can continually replace a cast and a half of floro. You're right that the extra knot can be an issue. I've dialed in the FGknot over the last couple of years and very seldom break that knot. BTW, I fish 2-3 times / week, and have done for 20 years.
I agree Randy, I've tried who braid to fluorocarbon thing. I don't really see the advantage. I tried it for 2-3 years. I went back to running straight floro, mono or braid. I will runn backing on some of my reels with braid or mono about 1/2 bottom of reel roughly. So I'm not spooling the entire reel with floro. Just do that to save $. I never get down to my backing. By the I'm ready to re- spool top layer
I totally agree, I've tried several different knots and they are all a pain in the a** to tie. I even bought a tool for it that tied my knots perfectly every time, and I still would have break offs. Just pick one and be done. If the water is really clear and clean go with the fluro and if it's really grassy or has a lot of structure go with the braid. It's not rocket science
Good advice Randy! Another thing I myself have noticed is that I don’t actually get any more cast distance from the braid because of the leader knot dragging through the rod guides and slowing my bait way down.
I agree if your fishing lakes from a boat. I fish rivers. I fished with straight mono and flouro for years then I discovered I could cast much further with braid but the braid would quickly get frayed up and abraded on the first few feet of line from the bait and I often had to retie my bait. I fished with straight braid a few years loved the casting until I took a buddy along and side by side in CLEAR WATER using the same bait he caught twice as many fish. He was using mono I was using the green braid. This made me think the fish could be seeing the braid. I tested this theory in a local lake with bluegill one pole with flouro the other braid. The bluegill would rush up and grab the bait every time on the mono and with the braid they would rush up and stop and turn away. They could see the braided line. So In started using flouro leader. This gives me the abrasion resistance of flouro and the casting and strength of smaller diameter braid and it lasted just as long as flouro alone. Yes you do need to learn to lie knots well especially the leader knots but thats always been the case with fishing. I never break off a leader it always breaks at the tackle or the hooks bend open. The leader works best when river fishing exclusively. If I only fished from a boat in lakes I would only use flouro
I know getting the fish to bite is important. Thats is why I like to use a flurocarbon leader with braid. If all you fish for is bass in muddy or stained water it doesn't really matter. But some people get into a lot of clear water with pressured fish. Ever see what braid looks like on an underwater camera? It looks like rope.
I use both. My waters are clear with visibility of 20 feet and more. Only using braid for better long distance hookset and when I have to go through plastic before getting into the fish. Randy points are very valid.
Thanks for the info . This was my first year using braid . But I didn't do a leader , just straight 50 lb braid to texas rig . Seemed to do ok . However I did not use this set up in places I knew would be full of snags.
Fireline is my favorite line. On my catfish rigs I use braided line with a monofilament leader on a swivel. The stiffness of the monofilament helps to prevent the main line and leader from twisting together.
Depending on the situations and applications I either use straight Fluoro or straight Braid. I NEVER use Braid connected to any type of a leader……….Doesn’t matter the application or water clarity and it always works for me. If I need Braid for heavy hard type of cover (lay downs/stumps) then I use 50-65lb straight Braid with Mono backing. If I need Braid for heavy but softer type cover (grass/weeds) then I will use 30-50lb straight Braid with Mono backing. If I need Fluoro then I use either 14-20lb straight Fluoro. *All these are on my Baitcasters and I Fish a lot here in Texas and catch trophy Bass. On my Spincast reels I use either straight Fluoro or straight Braid (mono backing with Braid) too but a lot lighter line. Just my thoughts and recommendations because it works for me with absolutely no problems. Thanks for the video Randy!!!
Okay, for fresh water only, that makes sense. But if you use your same setup for inshore/nearshore saltwater, it’s a must… 15lb to 20lb braid then 15lb to 60lb fluro/mono if you’re getting sharked targeting spanish nearshore. Or fishing structure where you have to horse the fish…
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Worth it to avoid all the line twist and coils. Still getting bites.
I save a fortune in line using braid to fluorocarbon. My line isn't free
same here brother some of those guys are out of touch with the rest of the fishing community when it comes to not having free shit given to them
U said it
Same! It allows you to buy premium fluorocarbon without completely breaking the bank.
No doubt!
That’s exactly why I do, the cash I save allows me to buy line like Shooter or Seaguar
The reason to use it is the sensitivity of braid but with a low visibility advantage of fluoro. The FG knot is easy to tie and I personally don’t think the fish are concerned about a piece of line 20’ away. The biggest issue is straight fluorocarbon is a nightmare on a spinning reel. I’ve tried it and it sucks horribly.
I could not agree more. I have tried straight flouro on everything and it always ends the same way. A massive blow-up of line, line twist, loops and F-bombs. Some of my all time best cuss fits have occurred using a spinning reel sans braid. And, I AM CAREFUL. I manually close my bail every time and follow that by pulling the slack out. I try to feather the line going out on every cast with my index finger. Flouro/mono is still gonna twist. I have really tried fishing a jerkbait w/a spinning reel. Always ends the same. A blow up and massive F-bombs. Best of luck with the straight flouro. I'll stick to my yeller braid.
I have issues with it on my baitcasters. I tried to run straight fluoro on my cranking rod. It’s a Denali attack series and I could feel anything. I literally hooked a fish first day with it and didn’t even know till I got it almost to the boat. Not to mention all the casting issues I had. I still run a 20-25’ leader on that setup but with the braid it’s a night and day difference
@@billpatterson6249 tie your floro to something after you spool it. walk back while letting line out a little further than you can cast. Now, stretch the floro line for a minute or two. It really helps with the memory and it's a game changer......for me at least! Tight Lines
My thoughts exactly. Straight Fluorocarbon is a bird nest waiting to happen. I use moss green braid with a 15 foot fluorocarbon leader, which works great on both spinning and casting rigs for jigs, senkos, drop shotting, any slow feel the bite type presentations. The only other line I use is straight monofilament for cast and retrieve type baits like spinnerbaits, crankbaits, top waters, jerk baits, etc..... Mono is much more forgiving than fluorocarbon when casting. It does have more stretch, but that's not necessarily a bad thing.
@@throwluckfishing5785 I use this method for mono and it works great!
I just like it because I can change line weight without re spooling my reel. I only have 2 spinning rods so it just gives me alot of versatility. I don't have the money to be changing out my line all the time. That braid lasts me all year. So for me it's convenience and cost savings. I use the Alberto which is pretty easy for me. Also, i like the lack if line twist. But, I couldn't care less what anyone else does. Whatever works for someone works.
While I don’t recommend it I had a friend use the same braid for 3 years before changing it
Braid to fluoro = No line twist (eliminates bird's nests), longer casts ( more bites), saves money (more $ to spend on fishing), more sensitive (catch more fish by using a "crank set"). Learn how to tie an Alberto knot, use a long leader to avoid braid knot abrasion and you will actually catch more fish than using straight fluoro. I know this through experience. I also know controversy gets more TH-cam hits. Mission accomplished Randy. 🙂
Get good with floro and you never have issues. Complaining about floro is like complaining about backlashing. Braid / leaders is a waste of time. I stay in the water all day. Problem in line, cut it out and move on. My buddy is sitting there reting leaders in the rain 😂
Well all that knowledge just went right over your head lol
@@cautionfiamable close minded "If I can do it everyone can and should do it just like me" How about you do you. Maybe one day God will bless me with the super powers you have but probably not because I'm a moron who can't get better regardless if I spend my entire life span trying. Remember people like us exist. It's why there are alternatives.
What no one has mentioned is the increased hookset penetration with braid to flouro vs straight flouro. Definitely makes a difference. I enjoy the increased sensitivity in finesse situations. The longer casts are an asset in heavily pressured waters. The idea that my line is spooking fish and keeping them from biting may carry some merit, but we run trolling motors and sound producing electronics. So the farther I can cast, with better hookset percentage, and most importantly I have confidence in it.
If you’re running a decent flouro leader, you’re not spooking fish. This dude is just old and doesn’t like change.
easy to break braid to flouro the braid is a lot stronger so it can cause the flouro to break hell I break braid all the time
@@Mbtharp1 Old? The guy is only 50 yo. I'm 52 and have fished mono of every type most of my life. I've also used fluorocarbon extensively. Apart from a tiny few drawbacks, nothing competes with a braid and fluorocarbon leader in the hands of an experienced angler. Amongst the extensive experience that I have, is also the experience of practically all long-time anglers throwing their poorly reasoned confirmation biases into their genuine hard won knowledge. They assume their guesses of multiple variables that they don't have solid evidence for are correct by sheer dint of their experience, and not just a subjective shot in the dark. This guy is a classic case of that. He favours straight flouro, good for him, but it's a biased opinion based on limited subjective experience. I specialise in fishing for bass (sea bass) here in Ireland and a number of traditional long held beliefs about what "spooks them" in regards to end-tackle used has turned out to be mostly bullshit, from hard evidence. Certain species of fish have broad habits, but the number of variables that govern exactly what they do are constantly in flux. Experience counts for a lot, but astute awareness of provable facts counts for more.
Fluoro doesn’t stretch, so it should hook the same
@Satansoft Yes it does.
Braid pros for me
1) Can respool lees often
2) No memory issues
3) Limited space on the kayak and can make less rods work for more things by changing leader size
4) More sensitive
Cons
1) Breaking off and having to put on new leader
2) Apparently scaring fish and less bites
3) doesn’t come through guides as easy
I don’t think you’re scaring fish, especially with moss green. Also, I haven’t broken off a leader since learning the FG knot. It’s a game changer. And you barely notice it coming through the guides
@@Mbtharp1I think it matters in very clear water. That being said, I use straight braid on most my spinning setups because the water I fish is pretty heavily stained.
@@bevobevo2915 i hear this one lol, basically went to bass pro, couldnt find moss green, so i asked an employee if they had any braid that is colored like sewage. He kinda gave me this look like "Where the f are you fishing?" . My river might as well be a sewage despite being very, very long. There is no concerns about someone taking fish from it. Its a catch and release only because no one trusts the fish in this river to be safe lol.
@@bevobevo2915 I think it matters too, but to what degree? Mbtharp was responding to Skunko5000, who listed being able to use leaders as a strength. Are you saying that in clear water that braid is absolutely ineffective even with a 20' leader. I don't believe that is correct.
if you tie the FG knot correctly it will absolutely not break. After youve tied it over and over it is not hard to tie either, Youre weaving the line. when you watch someone else tie it it looks hard, but really isnt. I honestly cannot remember ever breaking an FG knot and if i did it was when i first started tying it and was tied incorrectly. I feel braid to leader has many benefits over straight fluoro. Its much easier to manage on the spool, you can use different sized lines just by retying the leader, its much cheaper, hooksets on long casts seem better etc. Its all personal preference though. But to say someone is going to break an FG knot that is tied correctly ,I dont think so. The lines going to break before the knot slips. Alot of guys use it because of the many benefits.
Also I’ve never have a double uni knot fail so his partner must have just sukt 😭
FG is a standard with me from braid to mono leader.… in the surf,...I have a 20’/25’ top shot/ shock leader on all of my multiplier reels for the surf, ... Baitcasting for bass is enough over hand and wrapped around the spool 2/3 times, ... The FG knot works so smoothly through the guides… it's as slick as slug snot, ....this knot has never failed me.… I’ve only cracked off when I try to whip the shit out of my 12’ heaver but the FG knot and braid is never the weak point… FG is slick as slug snot.… thing about fluoro, ... whatever works for you, ... I don't miss out on many fish..!
👌😎🤙
I agree, but it is a major pain in the ass to tie on the water.
@@Fords_N_Fishinthis. It’s literally impossible an FG will break before your knot at the lure will.
Surgeons knot! Quick and easy.
I think braid to fluoro is good in clear water on pressured bass but not necessary. My favorite knot for it is the Crazy Alberto knot. Much faster than the FG and its 90% as clean.
Surgeons knot, easy to tie in bad situations and is plenty strong.
Every time I try straight fluorocarbon I get nothing but a mess. Knots, line twist, and birds nest. I’ve tried a few different brands and same frustration. I personally know guys that use braid to fluorocarbon and catch thousands of smallmouth each season. I usually agree with your opinions, but not so much on this one.
It’s because this opinion is complete nonsense
Are you saying braid doesn't tangle ?
Yes, floro is a skill issue for most people. Complaining about how floro handles is like complaining about backlashing. Get good and it almost never happens. Youre a floro noob, what do you expect?
@@cautionfiamableI cannot get the fluoro to stay spooled up tight on the reel....it always fluffs up,
Fluoro has line memory, so how do you prevent it from wanting to straighten?
@jw-lk1pe i use higher end shimano or daiwa spinning reels. Usually 4000 size. The larger spool diameter helps. I also use quality soft floro like tatsu. 12lb is about as high as i go. Then switch to hybrid. reel spool it face up.
Double uni knots work great for me. I mainly fish rivers so cranks jerks and jigs get where they need to be.
Yep double uni knot is the best unless your going from smaller diameter braid to big FC like 80lb then a Albright or one of its variations. Or FG if you want to waste time LOL 😂😂😂
Same. Been using double Uni for braid to fluro for smallies and stripers with no issues.
@@BassManStrikes I can tie an FG in about a minute. I tie enough leader I can retie several times before I have to tie another leader. If I have to retie in windy / bad conditions I'll use a uni to uni. FG doesn't really waste time, its a better knot but sometimes its just too tough with rocking boats, wind, and my old man eyes...
I pull in fish on 10lb braid with 20lb leader that would swallow a bass whole.
Just use straight braid and call it good.
Fewer bites? I dunno. Consider that we know bass will hit an unpainted rectangular block of wood with some hooks hanging off of it, and that they routinely hit all sorts of gadgets with spinners, propellers, metal flaps and clangers, etc. that don't look a darn thing like anything that does or - even could - exist in nature. And yet despite that, somehow a few inches of line is the thing that's going to scare them off? Having a hard time buying it.
Then again, I very rarely fish in crystal clear water. Most of my bass fishing has always been in heavily tannin stained "blackwater" creeks and rivers, or farm ponds. If I were fishing in places with water with 20 ft of visibility instead of 4 inches, maybe I would have a different position on this, based on experience. But plain braid has always worked fine for me.
Some good points
I agree with you on that it always worked for me when I had 20 ft or more of a leader.
And with a good tide FG knot it does not come undone and when I get caught on something I pull and I break off mi or I still have my FG knot tied to my leader.
Yep.....Marling Baits proved that a bass will hit a stick or a block of wood with treble hooks on it.
With the diameter of say 10 lb test braid having the same diameter of 4 lb test mono there's really no reason you can't use straight braid. The bass are only focused on the lure. Last year I did try braid/floro and lost more bass on setting the hook than I did when using straight braid. Unless you are fishing highly pressured or crystal clear water there's no reason you can't fish straight braid.
On a side note I did see a video where somebody put some hooks on a GoPro camera and caught a bass. If they are hungry they will bite anything.
Randy, as always, thank you for the time and energy you spend to bring us this fishing information. As a 95% fly fisherman/5-10% spin casting/bait fishing my life has revolved around tying leaders to fly line with an overwhelming number of variations depending on target species, types of water, water conditions, etc. Quite frankly it is exhausting. And you are right, dealing with knot tying over 50 is a PIA. I have played the flouro vs braid game on spinning/baitcasting rods. I can appreciate the numerous comments below about the frustration with straight fluoro and it's memory causing frequent line messes and hours of frustration for many anglers. COULD YOU PLEASE DO A FOLLOW-UP VIDEO ON TIPS AND TRICKS TO AVOID LINE TANGLING, TWISTS AND MESSES WITH STRAIGHT FLUORO. It would be much appreciated. Thank you.
Randy gets his line for free. He probably respools every weekend. He doesn’t have these problems because he is completely out of touch.
@@ThatGuy-sw2xe I sometimes have those results in the first 5 casts of newly spooled reel 😒
I wouldn't recommend a beginner to do it or someone who doesn't like to retie but. If u know ur lines and ur rods and how they correlate to one another and what type of line would work best with that rod but. I personally haven't had any issues with braid to leader and don't think it has cost me any bites at all cause. I'm catching fish that other people aren't in my area or literally fishing right near someone and I'm smacking em and there not. An I've used in crystal clear water where trout are stocked and smacked the hell em there to and my best day on swimbaits was at that lake with braid to leader.
Well hey if Randy is so correct then can you tell me how an earth do I use straight fluorocarbon or straight monofilament on my baitcaster without getting phrase or bird nests in my real when I cast and when I literally try to prevent bird nests!!!?????
@@silentnight2292 Setting your reel brakes correctly will help tremendously. Tighten your spool brake all the way...hold the rod at the 2 o'clock position and press the thumb bar. When set correctly when the lure hits the ground there should be very little overrun at the spool. As for the centrifugal brake on the left side of the reel...when I started using a baitcaster I had mine turned all the way up and over time I've gotten to where I can back it off about half way. I'm sure there are others with better advice. Good luck and tight lines.
Easily!!! I used mono in my baitcasters and get no birdsnest unless it's super windy @silentnight2292
But you're not worried about the bass seeing thick wires of an Alabama rig?? Or a jerkbait Alabama rig? LMAO.
That’s what I don’t get … Like there are unnatural things about certain rigs and lures …
Bass can be caught with a Barbie head with a treble hook on it …
My buddy and I caught 30 and 50 on consecutive days this weekend on pressured lake....all my fish were caught on braid to flouro....no problems ....I did break off a few times...the FG never failed it either broke at the lure or the line broke...why not just say this is what works for me...as for yellow line and clear water...i grew up out west a trout fisherman both spinning and fly fishing..flyline is yellow the leader is 9 to 12 feet and the water is gin clear and shallow....and caught a ton of fish 🤔
Agreed. I have been using braid to go fluoro for more than a decade. Have never lost a fish at the FG knot. Neither have I lost a rig because of a failed FG knot when snagged badly, every failure was at the hook knot or swivel. FG knots are stronger than any other knot of a fluoro and hardly ever fail if tied properly.
Bass feel the presence of your line regardless of the size or visibility. It's really amazing they bite at all. For what it's worth I just use 8 lb mono on spinning reels and never lose fish. I feel the bites fine too. I think you just gotta do what works best for you with your budget and fish and water. FWIW I don't like using leader knots either.
This is the answer. Whatever works for you! I’m also in the camp that straight mono/flouro is better for SOME situations while braid is better for others.
Recently switched my baitcasters from braid to fluoro, to just straight fluoro to try it out. I was definitely in the category of new to fishing when I set up braid to fluoro and was told it was the way to go. Made the change to form my own opinion on it. Excited to experiment and get a idea of what I like better. What you said in this video makes a lot of sense to me though.
I did the same and I'm ready to switch back. The line memory and backlashes are the main reason for switching back.
More backlashes with straight floro? Was thinking about making th switch from jbraid but now I’m reconsidering. My lead is just too long
Fluorocarbon is better if you fish all the time but if you only go fishing once a month the memory in fluoro is gonna curl your line and cause you to backlash more which sucks
Exactly correct.
That happens to me even when I'm fishing 2 or more times a week. FC just seems to have too much memory for me to safely fish it as my main line on baitcaster or, maybe even especially, on spinning gear. Forget how expensive line is, I'll go into the poor house buying line conditioner. 😒
I believe the fish feel the line in the water regardless of type, unless it is not moving at all. I use braid because I don't like respooling due to memory. I don't fish all the time and braid just makes more sense to me, but I think fish just don't care overall.
Try catching trout on 12 lb mono or even 8 lb. Trout care.
Braid to fluorocarbon HANDLES SO MUCH BETTER. I never have to worry about line twist. That itself makes the choice for me.
Fishermen from Malaysia. This is my opinion and experience. I use yellow braided line with FC leader on FG knot, for both my Casting and Spinning setup for throwing lures targeting Snakehead and Peacock Bass. Never a problem. The FG knot never fails if tied properly, it is always the mainline breaking first or the FC leader gets bitten or abrasion from gill plates and rocks. I used to fill spools with dark green or black lines so fish wouldn't see line but it really didn't make much or any noticeable difference. I prefer to use bright color lines like Yellow, Red or Blue so it would be easy to track where my line is both when casting lures and when fighting fish in grassy waters, especially during low light conditions. The reason I prefer FC leader is that it cast further (smoother) than Mono and is relatively invisible underwater. FG knot takes practice and patience. Before mastering FG, I was using Albright to connect braid to mono but the bulky knot affects my casting distance and accuracy as the knot bumps the guide rings during the cast. Again, these are my experience. Peace.
How about don't fall for Randy's hype.
I started using braid to flouro (or mono) about 6 years ago, when I first tried ned rigging. I fish natural lakes in MN which aren't clear except early spring. What surprised me and ended up hooking me to this line/leader combo was how often I would "see" the bite long before I could feel it. Those bass so often would pick up the jig and swim sideways or towards the boat... and I felt absolutely nothing. But I could see the bright yellow or green line start moving and was able to react accordingly. I tried fishing a ned this last summer on a spinning rig with 8lb straight flouro, and it was a horrible experience, like I was fishing blind! I get my rods rigged up prior to fishing usually with an FG knot, but if I break off or my knot fails while fishing, I can easily tie a crazy alberto to a new leader, even in the wind. And with the low visibility of some of the lakes I fish (2-5 ft), I'll often use a mono leader, which seems to hold knots better for me. Had up to 65 bass caught by myself in less than 5 hours with such a setup. So for me the key is enhanced bite detection, the lowered cost of braid is gravy.
I agree with you about fish being able to seeing braided line, esp the bright stuff! I've experimented quite a bit with that. BUT, I use an 8-12 foot leader of green power pro with a mono or flouro leader, tied with just back to back uni knots. I jerbbait fish largemouth with this in the midwest and have caught dozens and dozens of bass over 5 pounds with this combo and really never have breakoffs at the knot. I have also caught dozens of smallmouth between 4 and 7 lb's in the great lakes fishing the same setup, with jerks and with stuff like ned rigs. They don't spook from the green Power Pro that is 10 feet away. The advantages with this are way longer casts, much better hooksets at the end of long casts, increased sensitivity on longer casts and very little issues with coils on the spool. Plus, you could literally not change your line for years and be okay with that stuff (just change the leader). Spooling all up with flouro isn't as good of an option in my opinion. The use of baitcasting gear brings up different things but for spinnng the above is what I believe works best! (I go either all braid or all flouro in most instances with baitcasting gear)...
I switched to straight fluorocarbon and got line twist. But you are a blessing to beginning anglers like me because I just found your video on how to not get line twist on straight fluoro! Thank you so much Mr. Blaukat!
I caught a HUGE trout in my local bass lake on a drop shot rig and I 1000% think that this fish bit the big finesse worm in the brightly lit shallows because I wasn't using braid as usual, AND it was just like you said! I let that fish tug my line and that stretch worked beautifully at hooking that fish effortlessly. Trout are line shy too and that sold it to me. I even got a TINY PERCH to bite a Zman Trickshotz drop shot bait that was about 2/3ds it's size on the same day. I will never go back. The casting distance increase is also negligible. I can SEND baits on straight fluoro.
God bless you Randy Blaukat!
I'm not a tournament fisherman but I do fish a LOT! After years of fishing mono, stepping up to flouro, I switched to braid a couple years ago. I fish straight Power Pro (moss green), no leader. Now I admit I may be too set in my ways but I primarily only fish jig, large plastic worms, and top water. I catch tons of fish on these three and never have had the need to vary away from them. Having said that, I have found that not only do I detect more bites on braid, I also have a higher hookup and landing ratio with it. I think one factor that is missed in the debate of braid vs flouro is the fact that regardless of which one you use, your technique of fishing it has to be adjusted. For example, I learned that the hook set with braid is not accomplished with an aggressive set that is afforded on flouro. You can definitely rip the hook out of a fishes mouth easily because of the lack of stretch. Another thing is that with added sensitivity of braid, setting the hook to quick can be an issue. Just means I had to adjust a bit and be more patient before getting the hook set. As far as the debate on fish being able to see the braid? I don't care if they do or not when I am having more success putting fish in the boat using it! Yes bass are smart but I seriously doubt they see a line in the water and panic because they don't want to get caught! lol
I guess what I'm getting at is that there are tons of different opinions on this topic but it all boils down to what you are comfortable with and what works for you. You may totally disagree with my reasons for using braid and I certainly respect that. If something else works better for you then thats what you should be doing. We are all different.
Unfortunately he doesn't respect you or me. He says as much in the video. Dudes a hypocrite. Hopefully no one using braid even considers switching to fluro bc it's different from person to person
@@rileymcgill9893
I don't think he was knocking braid. I think it was more about using a fluorocarbon leader with braid. I agree with him, this is unnecessary. I use dark green braid (15-20lb not 50lb) most of the time and have no problems what so ever.
That’s good to hear, I know we’re not alone, there’s a lot of fishermen just like us !!
Same...yes man, there are actual anglers out here that do shit based on logic and knowledge. However, we are rare. The vast majority of bass fisherman today watch some dude on TH-cam trying to sell them something that's completely pointless and fall for it hook, line and sinker everytime. (No pun intended) Then they will argue you down about it when you tell them it's pointless like they're some kind of expert. 😂
Randy I can't say your advice is any more or less helpful than any other influencers on TH-cam,but you are the best of all at starting debates and at times rubbing your viewers the wrong way with your opinions.I have actually grown to like your new channel much better as it is (thus far at least) all fishing tips without the opion pieces.
For the conditions I fish-crystal clear Ozarks creeks for smallmouth-10 lbs braid to a 6-8 lbs flouro leader, 12 feet long, is the only way to go. It doesn’t matter if it’s a spinning rod or bait caster.
Edit: I should add, I fix the issue of not having give in the line by only using medium or medium-light rods.
Ive used nothing but Trilene XL for 40 years. I have no problem catching tons of fish.
By "I have no problem catching tons of fish", do you mean you have no need to catch more or do you mean you often fish with anglers using leaders and you always or often outfish them, or do you mean something else entirely? Because there are a lot of factors in catching fish. For all we know, you may be like NDYakAngler. I've watched 100 videos of him slaying fish on beautiful bodies of water and there is never another angler around. It's amazing really. And to add insult to injury, he catches numbers of what would be considered trophy smallmouth in Kansas, with a Chewbacca lure with no action whatsoever. Anyway, the point is without a comparison under similar conditions on the same body of water, there is no way to know how many fish you're missing even if you're catching them at a 50% catch to cast ratio. Someone else might have caught them at 80%
Randy I tried man. I really did. But I can't get rid of the line twist. And I spool it the right way, and stretch my line and use line conditioner.
I think his ulterior motive is to increase sales of fluoro line..... If people through their fluoro birdsnests in the water, Randy might rethink things.
Did you see any benefits? I made a braid to flouro video a couple weeks ago and I can’t really see the benefits of using straight flouro.
@FullTimeFishing he's right about the benefits. Not having a leader knot, mainly. But I've never had a leader knot break, and it outweighs the amount of line twist and "loops" that are such a pain in the neck. Line management is the reason I use braid to flouro
@@bucknuts8824 I find this video and comments very informative. I am a senior citizen who's just getting back into serious fishing. Although I used straight braid to lure when fishing salmon in MI 25 yrs ago, I've never used B2L before. My older bro in NC and next door neighbor here in WI both use B2L and swear by it. I've mostly fished streams for trout and smallmouth but recently fished bass with straight expensive fluorocarbon and had many frustrating line twists. Maybe it's time for a change. Cheers!
I’ve fished braid to floro for nearly a decade at this point. Tried fishing straight floro again last year and it’s too much of a pain and expensive. I use the blood knot on all my leaders for spinning and baitcasters; never had the knot fail me. Highly recommend trying that knot. TacticalBassin uses the blood knot as well, that’s why I started using it lol
I use the Alberto it’s a lot easier to tie and I haven’t had too many line breaks unless I’m not paying attention
I even do this with fly line I’ll slap either straight fluoro or a top mono with fluoro dropping in size
I can tell the difference with how the fish react in higher pressure areas they don’t bite as much when they see the line
@@cityslickadundee3720I’ve NEVER had a crazy Alberto be the reason for failure. It’s almost ALWAYS because I forget to feel the leader for abrasion.
@@Smiththebat you definitely right about that !
MONO GUYS LETS GET TOGETHER AND SHOW THEM WHO'S BOSS🎉🎉
I like it because I do not have to re-spool as often and loose the spinning reel line twist issues. I used to fish local tournaments with an older fisherman we fished against. Normally we were fishing for second when he showed up. He kicked our butts all the time fishing straight 50+ pound braid on everything. We asked him want that scare the fish? He said how else is the fish going to find your bait.
Before there was braid I learned to suicide finesse fish from a guy that won the Bassmaster Classic a few decades ago, his name? Guido Hibdon. He fished a light spinning rig with 8 pound mono or copolymer line in places most folks would have been using a heavy flipping set up with 50 pound braid these days. His theory behind it? You’ve got to get bit then worry about getting them to the boat, just like Randy said. He made this what seemed impossible combination work by simply applying light pressure on the fish and waiting on it swim out of the cover. Their natural instinct is to go to deeper water to get away. I’ve done this for decades and can count on one hand the number of fish I’ve broken off. None of the larger fish I’ve caught ever broke off. That being said, line selection does plays an important part. I used Bass Pro Shops Excel in 8 pound clear. Why? I was given a sample spool in 8 pound and I put it on my finesse spinning rig to fish a tournament on Fork. I flipped a 4 inch Texas rigged finesse worm into a bed of hydrilla and hooked a 3 to 4 pound largemouth and it balled up in that stuff and I couldn’t get it to come out. I finally decided to break it off and move on. I wrapped the line around my hand and started pulling and I pulled the fish and a ball of hydrilla bigger than the fish out and almost straightened the hook. I got the fish. It’s all about line selection.
I save a ton of coin in lures using straight braid with a thin wire jig. I can bend that hook 50 times on stumps and rocks before loosing it. Casting is important when finish from the shore of the river. I agree that mono /fluorocarbon only in the boat works good but shore fishing or jigging vertical, I have always hooked up more walleyes using 8lb Fireline. Worked very well for me in the past yet all to their own. If you want more fish, it simply boils down to spending time fishing, knowing where to fish, what rigs work and keeping your lines in the water. If you know the spot and how to fish it, you will know how to avoid all the snags and get the fish too. Fished bass a lot when I was a child and the amount of time you spend on bass is better spent fishing for small mouth, panfish, perch, pike and walleye. They all taste better, and you can get your children to appreciate the sport a lot more because the shorter learning curve, cost and casting skills don't prevent you from being able to get started quick. A bass boat is the most useless boat out in water where you will have an occasional 3 or 4 ft wave. They are cool but just about worthless as a trout or walleye fishing tool when you have to go into a real river or lake. To all your own.
Spot on, I wish more people would think that way .
But for those of us on a budget,…. But I hear you!!!
To really blow your mind lol....I've fished mono my whole life. I've been fishing with 2 friends for a long time who, for a couple years now, have been using braid. One uses straight braid with no leader, as do his kids. One uses braid to a mono leader. We are fishing in a murky lake and primarily weightless with senkos. We all catch the same amount of fish. I never would've believed it with out being there.
P-Line Floroclear is pretty good stuff ! Fluorocarbon coated co-polymer . Casts like mono , and invisible . I use it for mainline and leader line in different situations! Can retie with a palomar knot too without knot cutting it self ! I don’t like tying a knot with 3 standing ends ! I fish primarily in Florida and Floro knots catch grass to much !
That p-line cast a mile !! Lol
my favorite line.... it's on most of my reels
Randy I agree with you on its fish catching advantages, but I think the reason most use it is due to braid having a longer lifespan on a reel. Flouro wears down faster. The only applications it makes sense for are if you need it to float (for top water) or you need increased sensitivity. But I’ve never understood the sensitivity part for Bass Fishing. I fish Lake St. Clair and the Bass in my lake like to murder whatever you throw at them so the sensitivity part is pointless. I use braid for vertical jigging Walleye on the Detroit and St. Clair rivers only because it’s paramount that I can detect bottom.
Yeah most of us don’t have the privilege of getting spools of flouro.
Yeah I don’t understand the sensitivity neater. I can feel a bite on any line lol.
Exactly! The amount of money I save every year is worth it alone but I also believe in the other advantages as well.
Consider yourself lucky that your bass are so aggressive. They’re lazy turds much of the time here will just inhale it and not move. It can be tough to tell sometimes when they hit, especially if it’s windy and choppy.
Most guys on this channel are still using mono from Walmart
I use moss green braided line. But I use flourocarbon as well but not together. They both have they're own purposes. Thanks for the info Randy.
I appreciate your well thought out arguments.
I use straight braid for deep panfish in gin clear
I crank with straight fluoro and use it on my jerkbait rod. That’s it. I just don’t want to respool every rod, every season. I can also switch from 12 to 20lb leader depending on the situation. FG knot isn’t hard. There’s a very boat friendly version of it you can watch on TH-cam. Also Seth Fieder’s version is slip proof. I’ve fished Mohave and Havasu with it and had no issue getting bit. It makes sense to use straight fluoro in certain situations and it also makes sense to use straight braid. For everything else... there’s braid to fluoro or braid to mono(which I also love doing in certain situations).
I don’t disagree with any of your arguments but I will continue to use braid to fluorocarbon for environmental reasons. Fluorocarbon is an ecological nightmare (both in its manufacturing and slow rate of deterioration). Replacing 15’ of leader is better than replacing 80 yards of that nasty stuff. Also, I find I get much longer use from braid, allowing me to use less of it. Leaving less of a negative impact on our environment is an advantage. Will it cost me bites? Maybe, but I can live with that.
What do you think braided fishing line is made from? It's just as bad for the environment.
@@w12p67 Braided line needs to be changed less often. I only need to swap it out twice a season. Straight fluoro needs to be changed monthly. Less is more.
@@bourgetfilmsI have my baitcaster strung up with the same fluoro from early last year, still works great
@@w12p67 Mileage and fishing time may vary.
I somewhat agree although the other advantage you didn't mention is the hookset on a long cast. I've found that on topwater straight braid floats better and is in essence an advantage because your lure will have the proper action with the line floating. Use Fluorocarbon on something like a frog or a stick bait or popper and it sinks killing the action. I think there's a time and a place for braid to fluorocarbon. I use it throwing large swimbaits and I usually put about a 25 foot leader of 20 pound Fluorocarbon with 65 pound test braid main line. I think its an advantage *sometimes. Theres always a time and a place for any strategy or tactic and to completely write it off is kinda narrow minded. With the bigger heavier hooks on a swimbait, the sensitivity and low stretch allows much better feel for when to set the hook and gives the leverage needed on a super long cast to hook the fish and keep it pinned with heavy pressure with such a large bait. I've hooked and lost fewer bass (and ones that count) fishing large swimbaits on braid to fluorocarbon than I ever did with straight fluorocarbon or mono. I never use braid to fluorocarbon on a spinning reel. No need. It's usually fluorocarbon or copolymer, the latter being my favorite due to its higher knot strength and having a bit of stretch. In other words, depending on what or how I'm fishing dictates what type of line and what gear I'm using, just like rod and reel setup. To completely write it off limits you as an angler. I guess it's all personal preference and to each their own.
While I do agree 100% of what You're saying . . . I have some 'but's'.
100% fluro on a spinner is expensive and a pain to manage.
You need to change the fluro more frequently if you spool up 100%. Think 'Slinky Nightmare'.
I don't fish tournaments, so 'every bite' isn't critical to me. Braid to fluro is convenient.
Most of my lakes / waters have stained or dirty water so stealth concerns aren't a factor.
I do fish straight fluro on jerks & cranks, chatter baits, spinerbaits etc.
But on a light spinning rod application . . . there are some definite benefits of braid to fluro for the non-tournament angler.
Why not the best of both worlds . I fill my spool halfway with 10lb braid & then anothe 50-80 yards of 8lb fc & I get the same advantages saving a lot of money
This is the way. I guess this would be braid backing instead of what Randy is talking about but I’m 100% with you. Even made a video saying the exact same thing!
The Crazy Alberto knot is the best I have found for this. The double Uni consistently fails with lighter line.
Used to go braid to floro all the time, got pretty good with the fg knot. Closest I get lately is old braid as backing and about 100 yards of floro. Floro is expensive.
90% agree with 100% of what you’ve said 😂 I love straight braided line with no leader at all for jerk baits, poppers, and most hard baits. You’re going for a fast instinctive reaction bite as opposed to a slow retrieve natural presentation bite. The fish’s own action of biting then a gentle pull of the rod often sets the hook without some overt theatrical hook set. Not to mention less work on the rod and your arm after an entire weekend of fishing. In the end there is no argument. Always use what you’re comfortable with as an angler and whatever gets those bites for ya.
I have found no disadvantage using braid to leader on my spinning rods. On my baitcast I primarily used straight fluoro, except for my bait finesse type setups I use braid to fluoro.
Thank you for the advice. I will take this into consideration
Respect your opinion, but I'll still continue to fish braid to whatever. Changing 10ft of fc or mono if needed isn't hard. A LOT less expensive then respolling my reels so I have full reels. Don't have $$$ to buy lots of fc to change often. But if you're sponsored so be it. I'll save my money on fc for my forward facing sonar......lmao
Good Evening Mr. Randy, I enjoyed this video on Braid to Fluorocarbon as you discussed on this topic. I respect your insight when you go into detail on ALL your video's! 🙂Keep up the awsome footage! Sincerely, Mr. Carl J. Gwizdala aka "Desperado."
I’ll give up the bites. The less wind knots and line twists doubles the enjoyment of my fishing experience. Best thing I did!
I never have issues with wind knots with straight floro
That's true for freshwater fishing you don't necessarily need that set up but for saltwater fishermen I suggest you apply that technique braid to mono or fluoro,it makes a huge difference.
How do you explain saltwater anglers using braid to flourocarbon or mono to catch fish that would make a nice snack out oh a 10# bass.
I think he’s specifically talking about freshwater bass fishing…
This was awhile ago but I think he was making a point that the connection would be a weak point. My point is that catching 100# fish with braid to fluorocarbon and using snaps disproves this weakness issue. The same goes for using a drag and not back reeling. Its not 1973 and we're not using Mitchell 300s anymore. I use my Vanford 3000s for bass and saltwater species. No back reeling.
Had the biggest strike on a lure I think I’ve ever felt last night, set the hook, line snapped at my superbly tied FG knot… just my braid and my dreams drifting in the wind back to me. All I could think about was this video. Defining moment. Whatever I do next, straight braid or straight fluoro. Heck, even straight mono could possibly be more secure. I never want to risk missing a fish like that again.
Here's a detail you fail to mention to 99.9% of your base audience is the cost of a decent flouro. It's not a con to you because I'm sure BaitWRX is giving you a healthy discount. COST. A spool of braid will last me 2 seasons fishing 2 to 3 times a week. Flouro may last 2 or 3 months and at 40 bucks a re-spool for a good flouro....I'll stick to braid/leader. I will agree for moving baits it's a little stiff but for bottom baits it saves me a significant amount of money. We aren't all Pros Randy.
I think there is a misconception when it comes to line selection.
I don’t think braid to fluorocarbon is a hype. I think many anglers just don’t know why they are using it.
Tackle balance is very important!
Fluorocarbon: (its invisibility underwater), (ability to sink) and (low stretch). Running straight fluorocarbon(baitcaster only) is good for crankbaits, jerkbaits and weightless soft plastic lures because the line can sink. Other fishing line materials will float or take a long time to sink. But running straight fluorocarbon on spinning reels is difficult due to line twisting caused by rotation of bail.
Braid: (thin in diameter), (zero stretch), (sensitive) and (less abrasion resistance). It is good for long distance casting and ability to have extra line on reel. I would never recommend running straight braid to lure because it can shock and snap when setting hook. So how to prevent shock & snap from happening? This can be prevented by tying a shock leader. It can be fluorocarbon/nylon. Nylon is the best shock absorber but it can be seen slightly underwater. (If fish are not finicky, tie to nylon. If fish are finicky, tie to fluorocarbon) + (tie to fluorocarbon if you’re fishing sinking lures).
My Experience: whether you are running straight fluorocarbon or braid to fluorocarbon for finicky fish, result is the same. The fish will not turn away from your lure just because there is colored line 6 feet away from the lure. My experience of this comes from my fishing for Siberian Taimen, Chinook & Golden Dorado. These fishes are extremely sensitive to line. (This is just my experience so please don’t take it to heart). FYI, I’m a bass fisherman too.
Knot Issue: What is the best knot to connect leader line? I think the knot will be the one you are comfortable with and have mastered. I say this because you can tie the strongest knot claimed by people but if you don’t tie it right, it will come undone. I personally use FG knot/PR knot because the knot goes through my guides smoothly. Tip for anglers who use FG knot. The FG is only tight(100% strength) when the braid on the knot changes color. Many anglers don’t tighten the knot until it changes to a darker color, that’s why it slips. If FG breaks, usually means wrong tying method which has injured the line.
Ripping lure out of fish mouth: This is actually very common with braid(zero stretch) and fluorocarbon(low stretch), not just braid. If you using braid or fluorocarbon setup for cranks/jerkbait, use a softer top section rod. This allows the rod to bend when the fish takes providing the delay needed. Another method is using monofilament. Monofilament has a good amount of stretch but it sinks slow.
Extra tip: Fluorocarbon users, After you put fresh new line on your spool, place the spool in a small container of warm water. This will help the fluorocarbon memory coil to build up fast and eliminate bird nest.
I hope my explanation could help you guys in some areas. Sorry for my broken English. My first language isn’t English.
I'll stick with my braid to flourocarbon. Less line twists, better sensitivity, lasts longer than just flouro alone. If I usually break a fish off its at the knot on the end of the line and not at the braid/flouro connection and yes that's because I'm too lazy re-tie. I used to fish flouro only and I can honestly say my bites and land ratios went up when I switched to braid/flouro. That's just me experience. I think everyone should try both ways and compare for themselves. Use what works.
It’s definitely much more sensitive than straight fluoro. I used to use straight fluoro, now I use braid with an FG to a fluoro leader. I initially did it to save money, but couldn’t see myself going back now because of the sensitivity and ease of hooksets especially on longer casts.
Thanks for the insight and experience. Something to consider
No hate here. Just my reasons why I do….8 out of 10 of my rods are braid to floro including all my spinning rods. Here is my list of why I use this set up. #1 I don’t want to change out my floro line 2 to 3 times a year. To expensive. #2 If you tie your B2L knot correctly you don’t need to re-tie it during a day of fishing. Re-tie at home the night before #3 Very Very rarely have a broken out at my B2L knot. When I snag and pull to break off, it’s always at my knot to my lure. #4 I don’t use high-vis braid for some reasons Randy said. #5 I don’t have $400 Megabass rods so having braid makes my set up more sensitive #6 You won’t lose more fish because of the lack of stretch because if you have your drag set right and you are using the right rod you’re good. #7 FG knot is great ONLY if you tie it 100% perfect. I use the Alberto knot and it never fails. #8 You can go from swimming a small swimbait to a bottom contact ned rig on the same line set up. 15lbs braid to 8lb floro cover 90% of what I through. And you CAN throw a jerkbait with this.
Next time you bring out client for a jerkbait lesson you should fish the whole day with B2F while you client fishes with floro and see you lands more for science.
This is great!
And haha I’d wager the professional bass fisherman would catch more than his clients if he was using a friggen ice fishing rod. All it proves is that experience matters more than what fishing line you’re using.
After years of fishing, I've tried it all. Spent a pretty penny on all variations of line usage. I found that the best set up is braid to a fluoro or mono leader. It gives you all the advantages with minimal drawbacks. With this set up, you get sensitivity, the line by the lure is basically invisible, great hook up ratios, save money on line, you can fish every water situation without changing setups, and you get some stretch with the leader when fighting big fish. As reference, i bought 20lb braid with 17lb fluoro, 100-150yrd spool each. Spooled my baitcaster up with the braid and use a 10-20ft fluoro leader. These two spool lasted 5 yrs without having to buy anymore line. With my set up, I've caught fish just as well and even better than my family and friends, who use straight mono or fluoro, in every type of water clarity.
There are drawbacks that i should mention. You have to use a good braid to leader knot or risk breaking your leader off (since using the FG knot I have never broken a leader). Your casting feels a little bit clunky due to the leader knot (even with the FG knot you can feel it going through your guides now that micro guides are the norm). Every now and then you have to retie your leader. A poor leader knot can get caught in the guides during a cast (if you make aure ypu skills at leader knots are top notch, wont be an issue)
If you want to save even more money, you can spool half your reel with mono, then braid with the leader. This can stretch your line even longer. Personally i didn't like this variation. It became too problematic for me aince it's all guess work and often times i would cast all the braid out and be in the mono. Also the knot in the spool from mono to braid messes with the spool when its free spinning during the cast so it hurts your casting distance and feels off.
For me, it was a no brainer to go braid with a fluoro leader.
I use lime green and army green Braid to Fluorocarbon and Mono leaders.
Take a black magic marker to that lime green about 20 feet up from the fluoro. helps to hide the line.
For my part, I just don't like the sound of the knot passing through the guides. I use a double uni knot which is relatively small but still the knot against the guides is very noticeable. Now I just use straight mono or fluorocarbon.
Given what he said about streaching and If price is a factor, why not go mono? I am not being sarcastic I am trying to learn.
I used mono my whole life and want to give braid a try.
Absolutely right, I'm an sea surfcasting/ spining fisherman since young, one of the first rules I learned with the older fisherman at the time, NEVER underestimate the fish, soon our baits, weights, hooks, lures and lines hit the water, they will be in contact in the FISH environment, keep it simple, including the baits presentation as simple as possible.
Another rule, if you fish at the sea on the verge of a rock casting near or far in calm and clear water, your presence will spook the fish, specially the biggest fish, only the bait fish will not go to far from you, anyway, cast from a reasonable distance or behind a rock for example. Line colours and braids are important too, if you can fish with line colours matching the waters colour or transparent lines in conttact with water. Keep all the fishing gear as simple as possible.
I've gone back to straight mono for everything. Just adjust my line strength for different presentation's.
Thank u...I appreciate ur honesty and courage to call out your opinion on this matter...I'm agreeing with u :)
I absolutely hate the memory/coil of fluorocarbon any good suggestions on dealing with it
Best thing I have found is to let your line out behind your boat when slowly idling your big motor or your trolling motor and let it straighten out in the water prior to starting a fishing day if possible. Doesn’t prevent it from twisting again throughout the day but it will start it out nice and straight
You're probably using too big of line or too small a reel. Also, try using high quality fluorocarbon like Invis-x or FC Sniper
Agree with Invizx due to its low memory. But even 6 lbs test Invizx will still twist on spinning reels
I've watched Randy's other video on spooling fluorocarbon and recommended reel size not being difficult just not doing something right lol fishing shouldn't be 3 cast 10 minutes of line picking ect then 3 or 4 more cast
Go braided line. Powerpro.
Straight mono!!!! Used it for 50 years..
Sorry Randy but I am not about to stop tying leaders on my spinning gear. I have been doing it for 12 years. I only have 2 spinning combos so I like the versatility. Also you do not need the FG unless you are flipping. Lasty, and I jinxing myself, I haven't had my leader break at the knot in many years.
I never paid to much attention to the braid or no braid argument and I use braid to leader exclusively because im on a budget and it seriously helps out...both sides of the argument makes complete sense and everyone should use what fits the best for them and I am really at a loss why people get so offended by this, it's insane!
I’m thinking of switching back to straight fluorocarbon, I’ve had the fg knot fail a bunch of times, but I do like the sensitivity and castability of braid to fluorocarbon
I've had some braid to fluoro failures as well. I'm sure I failed in tying the knot. Since I've down sized my line stregth (15lb braid to 8-12lb fluro leader) the uni to uni is much smaller and I have zero issues with it. Yes, it is not as strong as an FG, but I can tie it in a minute.
I use the crazy alberto knot, and have never had a failure.
@@snookcatcher1I use the FG knot religiously. I have exactly two failures both directly attributed to me.
I use the gt knot it’s a trooper and super easy to tie.
that’s a you problem not a knot problem
Fish in the NW nothing but clear water. I love braid to flouro. Sensitivity is off the chart on finesse techniques and great for casting those small baits. I agree about thr FG knot use Alberto knot . I can tie that knot while running the trolling motor if I have to.
Just a crazy thought...Maybe I'll keep it simple and go back to straight mono or copolymer??
Man all I use on my spinning outfits are trilene xl 10 lb test.
I’ve used Mccoys mean green for 40 years
@@clay7514 Does trilene twist like floro?? I can't stand floro on a spin caster......all that twisting.
@@jimb3457 nope very few twist or loops. U said spincast, I’m talkin bout spinning/ open face. I always click my bail over n straighten the line out right after the cast. That helps prevent twist
@@clay7514 Yeah....spin not baitcast. We're talking about the same thing. I'll give it a try the next time I load my spinning reels. Never considered mono, and it's so cheap....thanks for the tip.
I started using braid to fluorocarbon because it helps my wife and son see and manage the line better. Then I realized it helped me a little bit except for jerkbait fishing.
i agree with most of what you had to say here today, but 1 significant factor that you overlooked is PRICE. I can run the same 15# braid all year long and swap out a 15-20' floro leader for a lot cheaper than I can continually replace a cast and a half of floro. You're right that the extra knot can be an issue. I've dialed in the FGknot over the last couple of years and very seldom break that knot. BTW, I fish 2-3 times / week, and have done for 20 years.
I can’t argue with most of your points. I mainly use it so I don’t have to deal with line memory
I agree Randy, I've tried who braid to fluorocarbon thing. I don't really see the advantage. I tried it for 2-3 years. I went back to running straight floro, mono or braid. I will runn backing on some of my reels with braid or mono about 1/2 bottom of reel roughly. So I'm not spooling the entire reel with floro. Just do that to save $. I never get down to my backing. By the I'm ready to re- spool top layer
I do the exact same thing
@@bfishin2183 year its a good thing to do, save $ & the first half you will never use so it just gets wasted anyways
I totally agree, I've tried several different knots and they are all a pain in the a** to tie. I even bought a tool for it that tied my knots perfectly every time, and I still would have break offs. Just pick one and be done. If the water is really clear and clean go with the fluro and if it's really grassy or has a lot of structure go with the braid. It's not rocket science
Good advice Randy! Another thing I myself have noticed is that I don’t actually get any more cast distance from the braid because of the leader knot dragging through the rod guides and slowing my bait way down.
I agree if your fishing lakes from a boat. I fish rivers. I fished with straight mono and flouro for years then I discovered I could cast much further with braid but the braid would quickly get frayed up and abraded on the first few feet of line from the bait and I often had to retie my bait. I fished with straight braid a few years loved the casting until I took a buddy along and side by side in CLEAR WATER using the same bait he caught twice as many fish. He was using mono I was using the green braid. This made me think the fish could be seeing the braid. I tested this theory in a local lake with bluegill one pole with flouro the other braid. The bluegill would rush up and grab the bait every time on the mono and with the braid they would rush up and stop and turn away. They could see the braided line. So In started using flouro leader. This gives me the abrasion resistance of flouro and the casting and strength of smaller diameter braid and it lasted just as long as flouro alone. Yes you do need to learn to lie knots well especially the leader knots but thats always been the case with fishing. I never break off a leader it always breaks at the tackle or the hooks bend open. The leader works best when river fishing exclusively. If I only fished from a boat in lakes I would only use flouro
I just use braid+ flouro/mono for spinning surf or rock fishing
I would maybe try out flouro if it was realistic to have it in strengths stronger than 30lb for larger species.
wow great video. been out of serious bass fishing a long time and it can be overwhelming with all these damn line choices
I use mono period👍
I know getting the fish to bite is important. Thats is why I like to use a flurocarbon leader with braid. If all you fish for is bass in muddy or stained water it doesn't really matter. But some people get into a lot of clear water with pressured fish. Ever see what braid looks like on an underwater camera? It looks like rope.
I use both. My waters are clear with visibility of 20 feet and more. Only using braid for better long distance hookset and when I have to go through plastic before getting into the fish. Randy points are very valid.
Thanks for the reasoned perspective
Thanks for the info . This was my first year using braid . But I didn't do a leader , just straight 50 lb braid to texas rig . Seemed to do ok . However I did not use this set up in places I knew would be full of snags.
Fireline is my favorite line. On my catfish rigs I use braided line with a monofilament leader on a swivel. The stiffness of the monofilament helps to prevent the main line and leader from twisting together.
Depending on the situations and applications I either use straight Fluoro or straight Braid.
I NEVER use Braid connected to any type of a leader……….Doesn’t matter the application or water clarity and it always works for me. If I need Braid for heavy hard type of cover (lay downs/stumps) then I use 50-65lb straight Braid with Mono backing. If I need Braid for heavy but softer type cover (grass/weeds) then I will use 30-50lb straight Braid with Mono backing.
If I need Fluoro then I use either 14-20lb straight Fluoro.
*All these are on my Baitcasters and I Fish a lot here in Texas and catch trophy Bass.
On my Spincast reels I use either straight Fluoro or straight Braid (mono backing with Braid) too but a lot lighter line. Just my thoughts and recommendations because it works for me with absolutely no problems.
Thanks for the video Randy!!!
Okay, for fresh water only, that makes sense.
But if you use your same setup for inshore/nearshore saltwater, it’s a must…
15lb to 20lb braid then 15lb to 60lb fluro/mono if you’re getting sharked targeting spanish nearshore. Or fishing structure where you have to horse the fish…
Thank you for the advice 👍
I’m a bank fisherman primarily and I cast much farther with braid to fluorocarbon.
Thank you for the video 🤠