Back in tradeschool they also told us 2 other purposes behind flat washers, friction reduction and replacement. You have a rotating bolt head into a stationary surface, by having a plated piece between them you reduce the friction between the 2 and require less torque to achieve the same clamping force. On a similar note the rotating bolt head wants to chew into the surface under it, a flat washer is much easier to replace when it gets chewed than the entire workpiece.
Well put. I broke a bolt on a new strut spring assembly i was installing while torquing it. The issue i was running into was the factory nuts had washers, and it had to do with the way the torque was distributed. And it was an odd number like 28 pd ft as well. I enjoy understanding the reasoning behind why things are the way they are, it helps me to better understand them fully
Yup, as an amateur bike mechanic I've definitely come across this when installing pedals, it prevents the pedal marring the expensive aluminium cranks. Another use for washers is as a spacer. For example if you're mounting a disc brake caliper to a bike and the rotor is 203mm but the mount is designed for a 200mm rotor you'd use a 1.5mm thick washer/spacer to move the caliper out so it lines up properly.
Another function of washers is as a spacer. When bolting two plates together one, or more, washer(s) can be placed between the plates to get some separation. At one of the factories I worked at we bought Washers for $10 per pound (about 10 cents each), and had apprentices file of any burrs and write a part number on them. They then became Spacers at $3 each.
The washers on the left are often referred to as (anti) Vibration washers. Washers are also to keep apart some materials for corrosion (electrostatic) and to prevent bolts "digging in" to softer materials. Good article, thanks
There are washers that separate galvanically different materials which wourd rust fast in contact: like aluminium+steel or steel+carbon. Those washers are usually plastic.
@SEThatered this is an awesome point! When I worked in commercial construction, there was a mistake made regarding the type of screws that had (inadvertently) been used to fasten special metal roof panels and it all had to be removed, and reinstalled, due to the future material interaction that was bound to take place.
The first thing I did when I watched this was identify some washers in your small washer bin that were larger than those in you large bin - happily I kept watching and enjoyed the video. Looking forwards to seeing what's next.
Lol...I was thinking they looked awfully close and more of a generalization than a precise measurement....it was then I noticed the labels....small and large washers...dude actually printed out a label for each bin, meaning that they could not be a general mix and there must be some qualifying factors to determine Large from Small. In the end I was left disappointed.
That's the kind of video I like. Covering something with a fair amount of detail, yet without a big time commitment. Keep doing that and I'll keep watching.
Thanks "Dad" for such an informative video. But of MOST value to me were the comments it generated from the viewers who weighed in with their experiences and insights on the other uses of washers and such. Its that input that made it of most value to me. Thanks
You're welcome, and yes, I 100% agree, excellent comments. I've always been accused of attempting to explain too much detail (e.g. my kids, etc), so I've made some of these first videos with full intent of exposure someone new to "what is this thing". And, the comments let others expand the knowledge for those who want to keep digging....which I appreciate. Collective knowledge is always better than an individual.
Good day. You showed three types of lock-washers. I highly advise against using the first kind a.k.a. split washer / spring washer. Experiments have shown that those things are not just useless but they are worse than useless. Threaded connections with these lock-washer are more likely to loosen under vibration than connections without any lock washer at all. I have never seen the second type (might be a regional thing) but the third type works. The best ways to secure threads are with loctide or similar adhesive or those highly advanced lock washers like Nord-Lock or similar. The more parts you stack over each other the more seams you have between the parts in a threaded connection. Over time the material in those seams ever so slightly yields away under the load and the nut / bolt connections becomes loose. Bolts and nuts with flange heads prevent that because you have less parts and with that less seams that will yield. If the connection is under vibration or thermal expension and contraction it is good idea to retorque after some time when everything has settled to compensate for the yield in the seams.
Great comment and experience you shared, appreciate it. Certainly not advocating for them, just ensuring someone new to the topic would know how to identify it. Cheers!
Thanks for sharing this info. This plus comments from many learned viewers àre really instructive. Now i understand why and when all those different washers are used.
During my aviation apprenticeship we were taught a bolt has a plain shank, otherwise it is a machine screw. The bolt washer and nut assembled correctly would see the plain portion through hole and enough thread was when 1.5 threads were showing past the nut. Only fine thread bolts are used in aviation for better vibration resistance.
Your aviation school is terrible. A fully threaded bolt is not a machine screw. It was never a screw, unless it self identifies as one, and even that is questionable. The minimum nut thread showing should be 2 threads, not 1 1/2. There are many course threaded bolts in aviation...vibration resistance based on thread pitch is a non issue as every bolt/nut is secured by other means including lock nuts, locktite or safety wire
@@Mach141 You're going make a judgement of a trade school on one statement? Any thread protruding past the nut serves no purpose for the mechanical joint except for clearance to other parts. I went on to engineering college too. Yes various locking methods such as wire locking, cotter pins nylocks, deformed nuts (for hot areas) are also used, but it was not relevant to the subject of the post. In my entire 50 year career with transport category aircraft by far the majority were never less than 32 tpi fasteners being used for component assembly/installation necessary to meet type design. I can assure you that when assembling parts, the inspector looked for 1.5 threads minimum engagement. The drawings specs ensured this with the fastener specs. If it was more, the wrong fastener was installed.
@@anthonywalsh6605 Lighten up Francis. Blah blah blah blah...are you done? I can guarantee you Ive forgotten more about aviation than you ever knew. Talk about irrelevant, that would be your entire comment. This was a video on washers, and you start mouthing off bad information about bolts. Are you still confusing bolts and screws? Okay, good for you.
One more function of a washer is separation of torque twisting between screw and the part. For example on your bicycle the brake calipers are screwed through washers. And it is done to prevent the screw from rotating calipers out of alignment as you tighten them down to torque spec.
@@puppable My washer designer job was at a company that mainly manufactured roller bearings, mostly for the automotive industry, but they also did other stuff such as washers. I was responsible for two products, washers and needle bearings. Before I started there I had no idea how many different types of washers there were and how high tech some of them were. Most of the washers were to customer specs, such as material, hardness, surface finish and were usually destined for gearboxes and such. To be honest, the job was way below my qualifications and bored me out of my mind. Although the pay was good and job security was excellent, I left after 2 years and specialised in designing plastic components for the automotive industry and never looked back. Money is important, but never that much that I'd sell my soul for it.
@@mikethespike7579I wouldn’t be too comfortable admitting that you are complicit with the use of plastic components in cars. I could tell stories about plastic components whose designers have been consigned to one of Dante’s levels of Hades owing to their failure due to material breakdown. Fords mostly.
@@marvinhaagsma9177 I understand your grievances but engineers are unfairly blamed for bad component design. We design according to customer specs. And those specs are determined by bean counters in suits who sit in air-conditioned offices well isolated from reality. I don't know about Ford, I drive a Ford and I'm satisfied, but I'd certainly advise against buying any BMW. I've had serious issues working for this company in respect of design quality. Their design specs just ask for component failure. I've pointed this out to them and they just shrug and say that BMW offers complete sets of replacement plastic parts and that should suffice.
Older Fords were OK, newer ones are disposable. Look up the schlemozzle with wet belt failures. Many of them will last less than 100Mm (about 60k miles) before wiping out the engine. As for BMW, they are the king of time bomb engines. Whether it's valve seal failure, water pump impellers disintegrating, coolant tanks rupturing... I will never own another one.
Great video again James , This is good basic information that should get most homeowners by. I know a lot of folks don't care what the function of a washer is. But us hardware nuts ,so to speak , they are like the salt shaker on your kitchen table. Coming from an industrial background ,we used hardened washer for certain applications ,like when you have really need to tighten down on a bolt that in is place where there is a lot space around the bolt. A low grade washer will cave in under high torque were as a hardened washer will not !
It's such a simple thing, but really does serve a wide variety of purposes, and more complexity to it that I really lead on......as I exposed the very basics to the average person.
In trade school I was informed “split” anti loosening washers strictly should only be used once. The “spring” effect not as important as the “bite “ of the spiked up edge at the cut of the split. Properly it should cut into the bolt head and the base metal to mechanically prevent backing out. Removing the bolt should damage the washer or base material. Consequently hardened high tensile bolt or base material will not get bitten into defeating the purpose.
Thanks man, really appreciate this video as I’m learning DIY right now. Great explanation of the washer(s) and the purpose for its use! Straightforward and easy to understand.
Thanks, I really appreciate that. What you said is exactly what I'm targeting with content. Right down the middle info, not too complex/crazy that it bends your mind, but solid/accurate to make you be more confident and aware. Stop back soon, more to come.
Not sure if anyone else commented this but the additional feature of the ‘split’ or lock washer besides the compression effect is: The lock washer actually digs into the materials and literally locks or creates an anti-rotational action. If you look at the way the split washers are stamped out they cannot easily rotate left(loosening direction), but they turn easily right(tightening direction). Lefty loosely, right tighty. Don’t use a normal lock washer on a left hand thread, lol…. Great video!! I am now a subscriber.
While many have commented about the ineffectiveness of a split (spring) lock washer, you're the first to reference that point. I wonder if they make a left thread intended split lock washer? Thanks for sharing.
@@LearnedFromDad good question on left hand split washer. I bet you could find one deep in the Mcmaster Carr or Fastenal printed version literature books. From my experience, left hand threads are typically used when the application has a motion or rotation that is trying to turn the bolt in the counter clockwise(lefty) direction, so a good designer will use the left hand threaded bolt. That way the thread is always being ‘tightened’. Left hand threads really play a trick on the mind during tightening and loosening, even when you know it’s a left hand!
@jonathanj777 now I need to go have a look out of curiosity! I definitely come across the occasional left threaded hardware like you say, in a counter clockwise rotation situation. Another unique thing I learned from my own dad was about left (ccw) rotation drill bits, particularly used to help remove a siezed right (cw) threaded bolt if drilling it out. Always fun learning tricks and techniques from people. Cheers!
We use those toothed washers for better electrical contact for grounding wire with a grounding screw. Those teeth ensure it cuts through paint/corrosion for better electrical continuity.
I work in a precision engineering shop, and some who've been there years still add a washer under a nut that locks against a threaded hole in a vice side stop. And some never add a washer over a slotted fixing point in the vice side stop! Doesn't sound like much I know, but I just signed up on the Dull Men's Club, and it really matters to me.
I think what you wanted to explain is how washers have an inner and outer diameter. The inner diameter determines what guage bolt you should use. The outer diameter determines how much surface area you want to speresd the tension over.
Interesting and informative. Thank you. Btw. good job with your thumbnail. Just as i was refreshing the feed page i got a glimpse at it and it's caption "What Washers Do?", and could instantly find it again via the search function, since it's also in the title of your video. Some times i'm just too trigger happy with the F5 key. ;)
Juist started the video, interested to hear how you think washers should be orientated. I've long had a good understanding of which face should go up/down for which application. Had a VERY good mechanic at work tell me I was wrong, as they should always go in a "top"(rounded edge) up configuration, as the washer has some "spring" to it. My theory is that that "top" side should be down in applications you want to not break the paint below(most applications), and the "top" side up in applications where you need to break the paint(i.e. electrical grounds). By "Top" and "Bottom" I'm reffering to the sided of the plate the washers were stamped out from., which results in a rounded edge on the upper die side, and a sharp edge on the bottom side as the upper die pushes through into a lower die.
Great question, and hope someone with more mechanical design experience than me might comment. I can certainly see how in some situation for sure there is merit on a certain orientation. I've heard the same theory and you mentioned relative to snap ring installation, though I've never personally had a problem when installed "wrong".
Bolts are like a spring, and the load is depending on dimensions, material and torque applied. If a joint is done correctly there is no need for any washer to put some extra load on top.
In a flange bolt the washer is integrated into the bolt, and is much stronger than a bolt and a thin washer, the latter will deform and is a weak spot that will expose the assembly to loosen its grip due to vibration, IMHO :)
There's a NASA document in PDF floating around the web and in typical Government fashion it goes deep into fasteners. One thing it points out is how ineffective split washers are in retaining tension on that fastener once it's flattened out.
I was fortunate to spend a couple weeks in Australia for work years back (and many other countries). It was always fascinating the different terms used for things. I learned to appreciate it, and adapt.....it was fun!
Mechanical engineering wise Washers actually are most often used for preventing marring of the important surface and reducing friction by averaging the load across the face due to the washer deforming into the crevices, allowing for less critical fits and tolerancing to the parts and increasing the precision of the applied torque to ensure the actual holding force is correct and won’t strip the threads, with a secondary purpose sometimes used with sheet metal to widen the load and reduce material fatigue.
I believe that star washer is there to improve the electrical contact but cutting into the work surface. Also you should still use a washer with a loctite joint???
I do see the star washers in a variety of electrical joints. I'm not exactly sure why they're used specifically there, but definitely a reason. Typically I haven't seen a combination of lock-tite and lock washer, but I'm sure it does exist. Cheers!
Another type of washer is the copper washer which is used to seal things like oil drain plugs or brake line fittings because its a softer material that can be crushed down.
If you want to reuse a copper washer on your oil drain you should anneal it first - heat it to cherry red and let it cool. This is neccesary because copper hardens over time and the annealing softens it again.
Thank you for this video. There is something I don't understand. If I am tightening a bolt through a block of steel, why do I need a washer in order to spread the load? Why can't I just allow the block of steel itself to spread the load? Thanks
Good point. In a situation like that, with a tolerance hole to the bolt, or the steel had internal threads where you're actually inserting the fastener as a screw, a washer won't really add value of spreading out the load. Like others had mentioned in comments (and I didn't cover, but should have) is there can be other value of the washer such as assisting with rotation to achieve a proper torque. However, if truly just a hole in steel where you're not dealing with precision, the holes commonly are somewhat oversized to deal with tolerance differences of mating parts, so the small surface area of the bolt head is spread out with a properly sized washer (to the bolt). Where I work in ag, often those holes in steel have a bushing inserted, so the washer (or flange head bolt) spreads out that load over/past the bushing to catch the parent steel part. So many different situations.
Washers are something added in by mechanics to create another point of failure. My favorite are the split locks, especially when a 3/8 split lock is installed on a 5/16 bolt
Thanks for sharing. Lots of discussion regarding split locks. Have you ever used any of the Nord-Lock washers? Others have talked about how amazing they are. Cheers!
Not one of the spring washers is useful for high vibration environments. If there's a genuine vibration loosening problem Nord Lock style serrated washers or actual mechanical retention such as the wiring used in aerospace, castle nuts with a cotter pin or anti rotation washers that are folded against the flats of the nut after it is tightened are needed. Usually if a joint vibrates loose it means it wasn't designed correctly or tightened sufficiently though.
Awesome comment, thanks for sharing! The normal end user rarely understands the level of thought that goes into something as 'simple' as a bolted joint.
True - bolted joints in high vibration situation should be held in tension with clamping force provided by the bolt threads on the nut - often you don't get this with low yield mild steel bolts. Counter-intuitively, applying the proper amount of lubricant also helps properly tension the bolt and stop it undoing.
The spring washers are useful to resist loosening during mild heat cycling such as in busbar or bolted battery terminals. You can even get terminal bolts with a captive split or cupped (usually star) washer. For more extreme heat cycling or highly thermo-expansive materials such as aluminum, everything will simply crush so it takes more than a simple spring washer. The "star" or tooth washers are also useful to cut into thin surface coatings or oxide (e.g. aluminum oxidation or anodizing) for a better electrical contact.
@@Sylvan_dB Right, that makes sense - all the electrical terminals I see have a spring washer on them, and appliance ground screws a star washer. The comment on aluminium has me wondering if you happen to know what is used for holding together clamps on kv HT transmission lines, which I believe are all Al?
You know, as I've gone back to reply to replies on here, I have another question: Why did you buy a bunch of different sizes of washers to dump into those boxes before knowing which sizes you'd need for specific projects, instead of just buying certain sizes as needed and then not rummaging for the right size?
Fair question. I like going to auctions. I bought a big container of new, mixed, hardware. No idea where it came from, but it was a huge lot of new bolts, washers, and nuts. The price was right, so why not right!? There were sooooo many washers, and the bins I had available, is the reason there are (comically) sorted to large/small. Better opportunity to sort going forward, but works well enough for now. Like you mentioned, I buy specific hardware if/when I need it.....if not available in my bulk 1x purchase. Cheers!
I knew a guy once that use to drill a hole in a penny and use it as a washer. I asked him why you don’t just buy a washer. He said because a penny was cheaper. He had a good point there.
Another purpose of washers is to allow a bolt to float into position in a large hole. Sometimes you have sloppy tolerances on an assembly of parts, like NPT fittings joined together. You may not be able to guarantee exactly where the bolt hole needs to be within ±1/8". So, you make the hole bigger than necessary for a perfectly placed bolt, and take up the slop with a washer.
@@johnnyseagull29The sealing washer part number for my car oil drain plug seem to be aluminum, and I've never had any leaks, so soft aluminum should work as well.
Thank you for this. It just came across my feed randomly. I tried searching it a couple of times, and all of the results were pretty much about washing machines and selling me hardware, no real explanation of the purpose of a washer, even when adding the word "bolt".
Thanks for the comment. I know there has been some interesting discussion and research of various lock washers. And, a lot of good comments on this video. Definitely no solution is failure proof, and we grow over time. Thanks for watching!
I don't get how the load from the perspective of the bolt head would be spread more against the washer than against whatever else metal surface the bolt head would be pushing?
Fair question. So, as an early video I definitely should have added some real examples, learning curve. A couple things. Depending upon the material being clamped with the bolt, the underside of the bolt head doesn't have mich surface area. With this material like sheet metal, you could draw the bolt head through, or similarly with wood, that head can contine to be pulled into the material. A washer sized to the bolt will spread that force out against the parent material and minimize pull through or deformity. Another example being a hole that is not sized perfectly for the hardware, slotted, or maybe has a bushing that will wear over time. The washer spreads out the surface area of the bolt head (maybe poorly stated 'spreads the load/area'). Make sense what I was "trying" to explain? Thanks for watching, cheers!
I'm still not sure, !! Here in the UK when erecting structural steel, we only use washers on the nut side of a joint, unless it's a HSFG joint, I really think in this case the washer is used to stop damage and act as a "buffer" when doing up the nut (which is what we generally do here )
Ironworker, awesome, thanks for commenting. I worked in commercial construction for about 10 years and recall the LeJeune bolts always (I think) having a washered nut. Used to have one laying on my desk because it was like a question rod, most didn't know what it was. I'll have to look up that washers specific purpose in structural, now I'm curious. Cheers.
@@LearnedFromDad Yes Washers have been used since nuts and bolts were invented, so they must have a purpose, I'm sure there will many different answers to our question?
Flat washers are also good to help protect painted surfaces against damage from the twisting of the bolt or from contact of the socket against the paint if you are using a ratchet wrench.
Depending on where you're from and what you were taught the washers might be named differently, I'm from Australia and where I've worked, split washers were called spring washers, internal and external star washers are shakeproof washers and belville are referred to as cup washers, it would be interesting to hear what other places name them
Thanks for commenting from AU! And yes, as I've traveled the world for work for work and pleasure, and always get a kick out of learning the unique terms for things. I was fortunate enough to have spent a couple weeks working through NSW and Queensland. Take care!
I've heard that somewhat recent dedicated studies have shown that locking washers don't actually work the way that they were just assumed to for decades and should be abandoned.
Yes, several have mentioned that. And, also mentioned the newer Nord-Lok style lock washer which looks fascinating. I was standing next to a piece of equipment a couple days ago and noticed a few split right lock washers, in an area with some vibration, and thought about all the comments on not holding. Cheers!
In addition to the uses cited, washers are also used as spacers, e.g. on an axle between a wheel and a wagon body. The purpose here is to prevent the spinning wheel from rubbing against the wagon.
Thanks for sharing. Absolutely, there were a couple simple, common uses I missed including spacing/shimming. Appreciate you adding that. Take good care.
Seems that only the nord-lock and similar styles actually resist loosening from vibration etc.. The tension supplied by the concave or the split washer is minimal compared to the actual clamping force of the bolt tension.
I've read other make very similar comments. I've got tons of them, from who knows where, but never use. I like flanged lock nuts typically for the random stuff I do around my home/farm.
One of the purposes of the Spring washer is to dig in under the Bold head and the Body.if you look at the Spring Washer Gap from the side you will see the Splits are designed when compressed to dig in as an anti vibration and reduce the possibility of the Bolt undoing. Another washer you did not mention was the 'Tab" washer that has two tabs, One tab is tapped down to lock against the Body Material, and the other tab is bent up against the Nut Flat so Locking the Nut or Bolt Head from undoing due to vibration.
Ahhhh, yes, didn't think about tab washers.....I'll have to dig through my bins, not sure I have any on hand, but have come across them occasionally in my career.
This educational video nicely explains why I too was wrong and why split-washers are not effective in locking the nuts (the split washer is discussed from 39:00 for about a minute - the link should open at that time in the video): th-cam.com/video/vkbBpAOM4kM/w-d-xo.html
Don't forget: cup washers - usually decorative; washers used to more easily allow the bolt to rotate and tighten - often nylon or similar material; crush or sealing washers - used to seal a gas or liquid port such as oil pan drain; ...
Others have mentioned that, and I'm not surprised. I'd love to learn more about the NASA investigation, just haven't had time to research. And, I want to experience the Nord Lock washers many have talked about.
@@johnkomosa9508 You do know you are comparing administrator political decision verses engineering analysis. I remember seeing images of the shuttle launch towers with ice cycles hanging of of them, and thought they wouldn't launch with the temperature below 0'C. I guess they thought they knew better than me. That is what happens when politicians and contractors are under pressure to launch.
How about the opposite of the lock-tight with something like your spark plug to keep parts that heat a lot from not locking so as to be able to remove later?
The short answer is that it depends on the situation and material. In a general situation of spreading load, it would work on either side. BUT...in the case of the one washer he had which was a large outer diameter with a very small hole, it's different. That type of washer is known as a "fender washer" because it's commonly used on auto body sheet metal. The reason? It's so large that it spreads the total load over a larger area, reducing the chance of distorting the thin metal that fenders and other body panels are made of. So in that situation if you place it on the nut side, the head side may be imprinted by the small surface area of the bolt head concentrating all of the fastening force into a small perimeter. On most surfaces you really wouldn't care about a little distortion because most surfaces would be much thicker/harder. On things like, for example, a wooden children's backyard play set, I would put a washer under the bolt head AND the nut because wood is usually soft, so the washer would spread the load under the bolt head and it would also keep the nut from digging into the wood as you tightened the nut.
Sorry for delay in responding. I read the other reply and he said very well what I agree with, and have seen. Really depends on the situation and joint. I also appreciate the other reply calling out a 'fender' washer. I had one in my hand in the video, but didn't call ot out as my original audience intent was those very new to such a simple part, and I could hear my kids in my head saying "dad, we do care about the micro differences " 😀 Thanks for watching, take care!
i know what washers do. theyre always a half mm too small for the bolt, and you can only ever find three when you need four... and they ALWAYS land on their edge and roll away down the ONLY crack in the workshop floor...
Agree, great choice and I run into a lot of them. Only dislike (me whining) is having to wrench/ratchet them all the way off. However, why wouldn't I just use an impact anyway 😁
This might be a bit niche, but i found my cat trees have 5/8-18 bolts. So I got some rubber feet with a 5/8 hole to get them above the floor. But I would like another half inch for airflow that I think I can get with washers.
A few others have comment the same. I always enjoy learning what things are called in different places as I've traveled the world. These videos have been fun as it give me global discussion even if I'm still at home in the US. Thanks for watching, take care, and stop back soon!
I've never encountered them, yet, but interested. I'd be curious if others could tell us where they are seeing them used? Maybe their use is driven by particular industry?
So why don't bolt mfr.s just make all bolts with that widened head (and then if you still need a lock washer, etc., you could still use one for that purpose instead of just using the "built-in washer" in the bold head)?
In my time working for a manufacturer, I've learned there is always a reason. May not be one a person likes (such as cost, or it's something already stocked in the plant, etc). I do enjoy the wide flanged heads on bolts.
@@LearnedFromDad: Of course there's always a reason. But then... there's a reason for EVERYTHING that ever happens or exists anyway, so that isn't really saying much. However, certain things have their _purposes,_ and those are what's noteworthy. Because obviously things are already stocked, but my question would be why they started off without built-in washers (meaning that if they hadn't, then stock wouldn't be a factor). But yeah, sounds like part of it is what Ensen said. Thanks for your reply.
I also use them to protect the surface I'm putting the bolt or screw into, especially with softer material like wood. They can work as spacers too. I've been known to use them to cheat with bolt or screw size, to allow a fastener with a small head to fit in a larger hole. (I know, I know... "that's what she said.")
Spreading the load is only really relevant on bolts in wood or very soft materials. The main reason for flat washers is to keep the nut or screw from galling the surface of the material being fastened. That is why bolts often don’t have washers as the normal practice is to hold the bolt fixed and turn the nut, hence the washer under the nut. THAT is the main purpose of a flat washer. Obviously, lock washers have a different function as the name suggests.
I see holes ground into thinner metals from people neglecting to use washers with hex bolts in high vibration applications. Mild steel sheet metal isn't that tough.
I am sorry at 1:29 this is not a bolt, this is a screw. A bolt is a length of threaded rod, inserted into two mating holes of two pieces of ie. metal, that is fixed by nuts at either end. A screw is any and all types of fixings that can be screwed into a hole, either blank or threaded, by the use of a tool; screwdriver or wrench or socket.
Completely understand. I should have grabbed something more appropriate to make the 'bolt' reference versus a technical screw. Appreciate the correction.
You had a dad to learn this stuff from? That sounds awesome. My dad went to the store to buy a pack of cigarettes in 1996. Mom says he'll be home soon.
@@andreasreichwaldt3994 it's mostly used in temporary situations like a "bush fix"... Or something that can't come undone until you want it to... It can also be used in conjunction with washers for waterproofing...
Hahaha, yes, I hear ya! Especially when the last guy who worked on it didn't have medium strength and instead said "ahh, just a little dab of bearing mount will be fine". Take good care.
Nordlok washers work well. Every other locking washer is pretty much useless. Pretension is the most important factor in keeping a bolted joint secure. Tests have proven everything but a nordlok is pointless.
I've had many people comment about Nordlok, but I haven't personally encountered them yet. Any idea what industries commonly use them? And, great comment about tension. Really appreciate you sharing! Cheers.
I work in the oil and gas industry. I used to work as a subsea engineer too, that's when I really got introduced to them. I've used them in both cases, particularly where there is intermittent loading or vibration. The down side to them is cost. If they were cheap, I'd actually use them for everything. As is, only in a needs must basis.
@@lexzbuddysubsea engineering, wow, fascinating! There isn't much oil and gas around me in Iowa, other than ethanol production....all that corn! I ordered a Nord Lock washer from Amazon, just to see/play with one 😀
@@LearnedFromDad try not to break it :) They work best in pairs, one under the bolt head and the other under the nut. I've witnessed testing and seen for myself, first hand, how much better they perform. I haven't seen anything pass vibration tests like a nordlok. Everything else, pinned, serrated, double nut... all just come apart. I spoke with a guy that works for the RAF and he said the nuts on aircraft all loosen off eventually. He said the good thing about wired nuts was at least don't loose the nut. Well, if that doesn't worry you, I don't know what will. OK, it's a bit funny too but you get my point. With all that said, enough load and vibration will defeat any solution, there is no such thing as perfect. But they are head and shoulders better than everything else.
@lexzbuddy hahaha, sounds like I better purchase multiple! And I agree, no design is flawless, always a failure mode. The creativity of either next engineer will fascinate us! Cheers!
All southern US slang, accents, morals, behaviours, customs, especially what is referred to today as “Black culture” etc. came from a specific part of England, centuries ago. Professor Thomas Sowell explores this topic.
@@62Cristoforo I was born and raised in Wyoming. My Grandparents were Germans who had migrated to Russia several generations earlier and then came to America. I believe that the pronunciation of the none silent R in washer is more widespread than just the Southern US.
Back in tradeschool they also told us 2 other purposes behind flat washers, friction reduction and replacement. You have a rotating bolt head into a stationary surface, by having a plated piece between them you reduce the friction between the 2 and require less torque to achieve the same clamping force. On a similar note the rotating bolt head wants to chew into the surface under it, a flat washer is much easier to replace when it gets chewed than the entire workpiece.
Well put. I broke a bolt on a new strut spring assembly i was installing while torquing it. The issue i was running into was the factory nuts had washers, and it had to do with the way the torque was distributed. And it was an odd number like 28 pd ft as well. I enjoy understanding the reasoning behind why things are the way they are, it helps me to better understand them fully
Underhead friction only accounts for 10-15% of total friction from a bolted joint, but definitely does have an impact!
That makes so much sense
It's exactly what I wanted to say.
Yup, as an amateur bike mechanic I've definitely come across this when installing pedals, it prevents the pedal marring the expensive aluminium cranks. Another use for washers is as a spacer. For example if you're mounting a disc brake caliper to a bike and the rotor is 203mm but the mount is designed for a 200mm rotor you'd use a 1.5mm thick washer/spacer to move the caliper out so it lines up properly.
Another function of washers is as a spacer. When bolting two plates together one, or more, washer(s) can be placed between the plates to get some separation.
At one of the factories I worked at we bought Washers for $10 per pound (about 10 cents each), and had apprentices file of any burrs and write a part number on them. They then became Spacers at $3 each.
This is a great point and I definitely should have mentioned it. Thanks for adding.
The washers on the left are often referred to as (anti) Vibration washers. Washers are also to keep apart some materials for corrosion (electrostatic) and to prevent bolts "digging in" to softer materials. Good article, thanks
Thanks for the comment, I appreciate it!
There are washers that separate galvanically different materials which wourd rust fast in contact: like aluminium+steel or steel+carbon.
Those washers are usually plastic.
@SEThatered this is an awesome point! When I worked in commercial construction, there was a mistake made regarding the type of screws that had (inadvertently) been used to fasten special metal roof panels and it all had to be removed, and reinstalled, due to the future material interaction that was bound to take place.
@@LearnedFromDad what washers do? Well it’s obvious isn’t it - they wash stuff😂
@@malcolmwhite6588if the could only wash laundry for me.....I would be beyond happy 😁
The first thing I did when I watched this was identify some washers in your small washer bin that were larger than those in you large bin - happily I kept watching and enjoyed the video. Looking forwards to seeing what's next.
Haha, busted......as you can see we don't discriminate, nor have a set threshold for large small!
I was getting stressed by just looking at those two bins for that and other reasons.
@@ttaibe LOL, me too.
Lol...I was thinking they looked awfully close and more of a generalization than a precise measurement....it was then I noticed the labels....small and large washers...dude actually printed out a label for each bin, meaning that they could not be a general mix and there must be some qualifying factors to determine Large from Small. In the end I was left disappointed.
I assume small and large in his collection were a function of ID, not OD
That's the kind of video I like. Covering something with a fair amount of detail, yet without a big time commitment. Keep doing that and I'll keep watching.
@markjohnson429 thanks, I appreciate that, exactly my goal. Cheers!
Thanks "Dad" for such an informative video. But of MOST value to me were the comments it generated from the viewers who weighed in with their experiences and insights on the other uses of washers and such. Its that input that made it of most value to me. Thanks
You're welcome, and yes, I 100% agree, excellent comments. I've always been accused of attempting to explain too much detail (e.g. my kids, etc), so I've made some of these first videos with full intent of exposure someone new to "what is this thing". And, the comments let others expand the knowledge for those who want to keep digging....which I appreciate. Collective knowledge is always better than an individual.
Your "best friend" was such a bonus at the end.
I have one too!
🇦🇺🦘
@jeffreyb3238 thanks for that comment, he really is a great best friend to me. Cheers!
Good day.
You showed three types of lock-washers. I highly advise against using the first kind a.k.a. split washer / spring washer. Experiments have shown that those things are not just useless but they are worse than useless. Threaded connections with these lock-washer are more likely to loosen under vibration than connections without any lock washer at all. I have never seen the second type (might be a regional thing) but the third type works. The best ways to secure threads are with loctide or similar adhesive or those highly advanced lock washers like Nord-Lock or similar.
The more parts you stack over each other the more seams you have between the parts in a threaded connection. Over time the material in those seams ever so slightly yields away under the load and the nut / bolt connections becomes loose. Bolts and nuts with flange heads prevent that because you have less parts and with that less seams that will yield. If the connection is under vibration or thermal expension and contraction it is good idea to retorque after some time when everything has settled to compensate for the yield in the seams.
I have seen these split washers break and vibrate loose so the bolt is no longer holding the pieces together properly. Completely useless junk.
Great comment and experience you shared, appreciate it. Certainly not advocating for them, just ensuring someone new to the topic would know how to identify it. Cheers!
I remember reading this too, and have since stopped using them.
Thanks for sharing this info. This plus comments from many learned viewers àre really instructive. Now i understand why and when all those different washers are used.
You're welcome! Lots of great comments as well to expand your knowledge! Cheers.
Excellent explanations
Thanks! Keep things simple for the everyday person. Cheers!
During my aviation apprenticeship we were taught a bolt has a plain shank, otherwise it is a machine screw. The bolt washer and nut assembled correctly would see the plain portion through hole and enough thread was when 1.5 threads were showing past the nut. Only fine thread bolts are used in aviation for better vibration resistance.
Awesome comment! I've never worked in aviation, but would love to learn to fly someday.
In Australia we call them tapscrews .R
Your aviation school is terrible. A fully threaded bolt is not a machine screw. It was never a screw, unless it self identifies as one, and even that is questionable. The minimum nut thread showing should be 2 threads, not 1 1/2. There are many course threaded bolts in aviation...vibration resistance based on thread pitch is a non issue as every bolt/nut is secured by other means including lock nuts, locktite or safety wire
@@Mach141 You're going make a judgement of a trade school on one statement? Any thread protruding past the nut serves no purpose for the mechanical joint except for clearance to other parts. I went on to engineering college too. Yes various locking methods such as wire locking, cotter pins nylocks, deformed nuts (for hot areas) are also used, but it was not relevant to the subject of the post. In my entire 50 year career with transport category aircraft by far the majority were never less than 32 tpi fasteners being used for component assembly/installation necessary to meet type design. I can assure you that when assembling parts, the inspector looked for 1.5 threads minimum engagement. The drawings specs ensured this with the fastener specs. If it was more, the wrong fastener was installed.
@@anthonywalsh6605 Lighten up Francis. Blah blah blah blah...are you done? I can guarantee you Ive forgotten more about aviation than you ever knew. Talk about irrelevant, that would be your entire comment. This was a video on washers, and you start mouthing off bad information about bolts. Are you still confusing bolts and screws? Okay, good for you.
One more function of a washer is separation of torque twisting between screw and the part.
For example on your bicycle the brake calipers are screwed through washers. And it is done to prevent the screw from rotating calipers out of alignment as you tighten them down to torque spec.
That's a great added point. Ironically, I was just adjusting a bicycle brake disc caliper today.
I had a job for 2 years working as a washer designer. It's a real qualified engineering job.
Please say more about your washer designer job
@@puppable My washer designer job was at a company that mainly manufactured roller bearings, mostly for the automotive industry, but they also did other stuff such as washers.
I was responsible for two products, washers and needle bearings. Before I started there I had no idea how many different types of washers there were and how high tech some of them were. Most of the washers were to customer specs, such as material, hardness, surface finish and were usually destined for gearboxes and such.
To be honest, the job was way below my qualifications and bored me out of my mind. Although the pay was good and job security was excellent, I left after 2 years and specialised in designing plastic components for the automotive industry and never looked back.
Money is important, but never that much that I'd sell my soul for it.
@@mikethespike7579I wouldn’t be too comfortable admitting that you are complicit with the use of plastic components in cars. I could tell stories about plastic components whose designers have been consigned to one of Dante’s levels of Hades owing to their failure due to material breakdown. Fords mostly.
@@marvinhaagsma9177 I understand your grievances but engineers are unfairly blamed for bad component design. We design according to customer specs. And those specs are determined by bean counters in suits who sit in air-conditioned offices well isolated from reality.
I don't know about Ford, I drive a Ford and I'm satisfied, but I'd certainly advise against buying any BMW. I've had serious issues working for this company in respect of design quality. Their design specs just ask for component failure. I've pointed this out to them and they just shrug and say that BMW offers complete sets of replacement plastic parts and that should suffice.
Older Fords were OK, newer ones are disposable. Look up the schlemozzle with wet belt failures. Many of them will last less than 100Mm (about 60k miles) before wiping out the engine.
As for BMW, they are the king of time bomb engines. Whether it's valve seal failure, water pump impellers disintegrating, coolant tanks rupturing... I will never own another one.
Great video again James , This is good basic information that should get most homeowners by. I know a lot of folks don't care what the function of a washer is. But us hardware nuts ,so to speak , they are like the salt shaker on your kitchen table. Coming from an industrial background ,we used hardened washer for certain applications ,like when you have really need to tighten down on a bolt that in is place where there is a lot space around the bolt. A low grade washer will cave in under high torque were as a hardened washer will not !
It's such a simple thing, but really does serve a wide variety of purposes, and more complexity to it that I really lead on......as I exposed the very basics to the average person.
Washers also prevent the area under the bolt from being damaged during tightening, for example tightening on a painted surface.
Yeah, that's a good comment. Appreciate you sharing!
Really helpful as this has been a burning question of mine for a few years. Now I know why. Thanks for sharing!
Glad to help!
In trade school I was informed “split” anti loosening washers strictly should only be used once. The “spring” effect not as important as the “bite “ of the spiked up edge at the cut of the split. Properly it should cut into the bolt head and the base metal to mechanically prevent backing out. Removing the bolt should damage the washer or base material. Consequently hardened high tensile bolt or base material will not get bitten into defeating the purpose.
Great comment. Definitely many sharing the same sentiment about split (spring) lock washers.
Thanks man, really appreciate this video as I’m learning DIY right now. Great explanation of the washer(s) and the purpose for its use! Straightforward and easy to understand.
Thanks, I really appreciate that. What you said is exactly what I'm targeting with content. Right down the middle info, not too complex/crazy that it bends your mind, but solid/accurate to make you be more confident and aware. Stop back soon, more to come.
Great video . Very informative, thankyou
You are very welcome. Thanks for watching 😊
Not sure if anyone else commented this but the additional feature of the ‘split’ or lock washer besides the compression effect is: The lock washer actually digs into the materials and literally locks or creates an anti-rotational action. If you look at the way the split washers are stamped out they cannot easily rotate left(loosening direction), but they turn easily right(tightening direction). Lefty loosely, right tighty. Don’t use a normal lock washer on a left hand thread, lol…. Great video!! I am now a subscriber.
While many have commented about the ineffectiveness of a split (spring) lock washer, you're the first to reference that point. I wonder if they make a left thread intended split lock washer? Thanks for sharing.
@@LearnedFromDad good question on left hand split washer. I bet you could find one deep in the Mcmaster Carr or Fastenal printed version literature books. From my experience, left hand threads are typically used when the application has a motion or rotation that is trying to turn the bolt in the counter clockwise(lefty) direction, so a good designer will use the left hand threaded bolt. That way the thread is always being ‘tightened’. Left hand threads really play a trick on the mind during tightening and loosening, even when you know it’s a left hand!
@jonathanj777 now I need to go have a look out of curiosity! I definitely come across the occasional left threaded hardware like you say, in a counter clockwise rotation situation. Another unique thing I learned from my own dad was about left (ccw) rotation drill bits, particularly used to help remove a siezed right (cw) threaded bolt if drilling it out. Always fun learning tricks and techniques from people. Cheers!
Really good information and explanation.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching.
We use those toothed washers for better electrical contact for grounding wire with a grounding screw. Those teeth ensure it cuts through paint/corrosion for better electrical continuity.
Ahhh, yes, for sure! I've come across them in various electrical situations. Great comment, appreciate you sharing!
I work in a precision engineering shop, and some who've been there years still add a washer under a nut that locks against a threaded hole in a vice side stop. And some never add a washer over a slotted fixing point in the vice side stop! Doesn't sound like much I know, but I just signed up on the Dull Men's Club, and it really matters to me.
Thanks for sharing. Precision engineering, I suspect you all work on some neat stuff!
Never heard of a Bellville washer....good stuff, thank you.
Glad you learned that. Yes, and often reinstalled upside down if not aware of what it is intended for. Take care!
Wait till you hear about Torrington bearings! Just playing around, but seriously...they're interesting for sure. 😅
@@k.b.tidwellOK, that's a new one to me.....now I'm off to search it and learn! Thanks for suggesting, cheers!
I think what you wanted to explain is how washers have an inner and outer diameter. The inner diameter determines what guage bolt you should use. The outer diameter determines how much surface area you want to speresd the tension over.
Well explained, certainly what I was going for. Appreciate you sharing that clarification! Cheers!
Super helpful way to simply explain such a common, but maybe misunderstood item that most of us see everywhere. Thank you!
You're welcome! Intent was to keep it simple, basics for the average new learner and let the comments add tons of detail. Cheers!
Interesting and informative. Thank you.
Btw. good job with your thumbnail. Just as i was refreshing the feed page i got a glimpse at it and it's caption "What Washers Do?", and could instantly find it again via the search function, since it's also in the title of your video. Some times i'm just too trigger happy with the F5 key. ;)
Glad it helped!
Juist started the video, interested to hear how you think washers should be orientated. I've long had a good understanding of which face should go up/down for which application. Had a VERY good mechanic at work tell me I was wrong, as they should always go in a "top"(rounded edge) up configuration, as the washer has some "spring" to it. My theory is that that "top"
side should be down in applications you want to not break the paint below(most applications), and the "top" side up in applications where you need to break the paint(i.e. electrical grounds). By "Top" and "Bottom" I'm reffering to the sided of the plate the washers were stamped out from., which results in a rounded edge on the upper die side, and a sharp edge on the bottom side as the upper die pushes through into a lower die.
Great question, and hope someone with more mechanical design experience than me might comment. I can certainly see how in some situation for sure there is merit on a certain orientation. I've heard the same theory and you mentioned relative to snap ring installation, though I've never personally had a problem when installed "wrong".
@@ravenbarsrepairs5594 the round side up just looks better, thats all folks.
@@johnnyseagull29 Until the damaged paint causes rust, perhaps.
Lol. Thought I was the only one who noticed this difference between the ‘top’ and ‘bottom’ of a washer. Always rounded side up for me.
Bolts are like a spring, and the load is depending on dimensions, material and torque applied.
If a joint is done correctly there is no need for any washer to put some extra load on top.
Great explanation and pleasant to listen to. Nice work
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching!
I find that nail polish makes excellent locking , and shatters when removing fasteners.
Interesting! I've never heard that. Now, bigger question, what color do you prefer? 🤔 😀
Good idea. And as long as both surfaces are clean, dry and oil/grease-free
@@LearnedFromDad- Red of course, but it comes in a blue bottle 😂
Maybe I have also used super glue when I don't have Thread Lock to hand. Though, you should of course use the proper spec compound.
You forgot cross threading, nature's lock tight
Hahaha, isn't that a fact! And, a frustrating circumstance!
The Mozambique method , one drop of battery acid on the thread .
Good video. We also used Nordlok washers at my last job. Those suckers really worked well.
I've never experienced those before but I just looked them up, interesting design. Thanks for sharing!
In a flange bolt the washer is integrated into the bolt, and is much stronger than a bolt and a thin washer, the latter will deform and is a weak spot that will expose the assembly to loosen its grip due to vibration, IMHO :)
I personally love flange bolts....fewer parts to drop in the dirt during disassembly 😀
Thanks for watching.
There's a NASA document in PDF floating around the web and in typical Government fashion it goes deep into fasteners. One thing it points out is how ineffective split washers are in retaining tension on that fastener once it's flattened out.
Several have mentioned that fact, which I fully understand. That document sounds like an interesting read, I'll search it! Thanks for watching!
@ 3:08 this type of washer is known as a spring washer in Australia.
I was fortunate to spend a couple weeks in Australia for work years back (and many other countries). It was always fascinating the different terms used for things. I learned to appreciate it, and adapt.....it was fun!
Mechanical engineering wise Washers actually are most often used for preventing marring of the important surface and reducing friction by averaging the load across the face due to the washer deforming into the crevices, allowing for less critical fits and tolerancing to the parts and increasing the precision of the applied torque to ensure the actual holding force is correct and won’t strip the threads, with a secondary purpose sometimes used with sheet metal to widen the load and reduce material fatigue.
Interesting aspect. Do you have any examples where this is the case?
Maybe sheet metal components?
Great added comment, I appreciate it.
I believe that star washer is there to improve the electrical contact but cutting into the work surface.
Also you should still use a washer with a loctite joint???
I do see the star washers in a variety of electrical joints. I'm not exactly sure why they're used specifically there, but definitely a reason. Typically I haven't seen a combination of lock-tite and lock washer, but I'm sure it does exist. Cheers!
Another type of washer is the copper washer which is used to seal things like oil drain plugs or brake line fittings because its a softer material that can be crushed down.
If you want to reuse a copper washer on your oil drain you should anneal it first - heat it to cherry red and let it cool. This is neccesary because copper hardens over time and the annealing softens it again.
Someone else made a similar comment, which was great. Thanks for adding!
That's an interesting trick, I need to try on my motorcycle the next time I change its oil. Appreciate you sharing.
@@jean-pierredeclemy7032 do you have to do annealing to dead-soft aluminum washers too?
Thank you for this video. There is something I don't understand. If I am tightening a bolt through a block of steel, why do I need a washer in order to spread the load? Why can't I just allow the block of steel itself to spread the load? Thanks
Good point. In a situation like that, with a tolerance hole to the bolt, or the steel had internal threads where you're actually inserting the fastener as a screw, a washer won't really add value of spreading out the load. Like others had mentioned in comments (and I didn't cover, but should have) is there can be other value of the washer such as assisting with rotation to achieve a proper torque.
However, if truly just a hole in steel where you're not dealing with precision, the holes commonly are somewhat oversized to deal with tolerance differences of mating parts, so the small surface area of the bolt head is spread out with a properly sized washer (to the bolt).
Where I work in ag, often those holes in steel have a bushing inserted, so the washer (or flange head bolt) spreads out that load over/past the bushing to catch the parent steel part. So many different situations.
Washers are something added in by mechanics to create another point of failure. My favorite are the split locks, especially when a 3/8 split lock is installed on a 5/16 bolt
Thanks for sharing. Lots of discussion regarding split locks. Have you ever used any of the Nord-Lock washers? Others have talked about how amazing they are. Cheers!
Not one of the spring washers is useful for high vibration environments. If there's a genuine vibration loosening problem Nord Lock style serrated washers or actual mechanical retention such as the wiring used in aerospace, castle nuts with a cotter pin or anti rotation washers that are folded against the flats of the nut after it is tightened are needed. Usually if a joint vibrates loose it means it wasn't designed correctly or tightened sufficiently though.
Awesome comment, thanks for sharing! The normal end user rarely understands the level of thought that goes into something as 'simple' as a bolted joint.
True - bolted joints in high vibration situation should be held in tension with clamping force provided by the bolt threads on the nut - often you don't get this with low yield mild steel bolts. Counter-intuitively, applying the proper amount of lubricant also helps properly tension the bolt and stop it undoing.
The spring washers are useful to resist loosening during mild heat cycling such as in busbar or bolted battery terminals. You can even get terminal bolts with a captive split or cupped (usually star) washer. For more extreme heat cycling or highly thermo-expansive materials such as aluminum, everything will simply crush so it takes more than a simple spring washer.
The "star" or tooth washers are also useful to cut into thin surface coatings or oxide (e.g. aluminum oxidation or anodizing) for a better electrical contact.
@@Sylvan_dB Right, that makes sense - all the electrical terminals I see have a spring washer on them, and appliance ground screws a star washer. The comment on aluminium has me wondering if you happen to know what is used for holding together clamps on kv HT transmission lines, which I believe are all Al?
@@mikelastname I don't know re. the HT lines, but that would be an interesting tidbit.
You know, as I've gone back to reply to replies on here, I have another question: Why did you buy a bunch of different sizes of washers to dump into those boxes before knowing which sizes you'd need for specific projects, instead of just buying certain sizes as needed and then not rummaging for the right size?
Fair question. I like going to auctions. I bought a big container of new, mixed, hardware. No idea where it came from, but it was a huge lot of new bolts, washers, and nuts. The price was right, so why not right!? There were sooooo many washers, and the bins I had available, is the reason there are (comically) sorted to large/small. Better opportunity to sort going forward, but works well enough for now. Like you mentioned, I buy specific hardware if/when I need it.....if not available in my bulk 1x purchase. Cheers!
I knew a guy once that use to drill a hole in a penny and use it as a washer. I asked him why you don’t just buy a washer. He said because a penny was cheaper. He had a good point there.
I don’t know if it’s deja vu or if I’ve seen this comment before on a different video.
Haha, that sounds like something my farmer grandpa would have don't.....having made it through the hard-times of the 80s. Sure do miss him.
This was useful, thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Another purpose of washers is to allow a bolt to float into position in a large hole. Sometimes you have sloppy tolerances on an assembly of parts, like NPT fittings joined together. You may not be able to guarantee exactly where the bolt hole needs to be within ±1/8". So, you make the hole bigger than necessary for a perfectly placed bolt, and take up the slop with a washer.
Great comment, thanks for sharing.
One thing I’d like to mention is how some materials of washers can also be used to stop fluids
Oh yes, great point! I've battled the brass washer on my motorcycle drain plug before not sealing properly.
Copper crush washers usually in combination with banjo bolts in hydraulic systems.
@@LearnedFromDad brass washers dont seal. Use copper.
As softer materials they deform under pressure into microscopic fitment between the two load surfaces
@@johnnyseagull29The sealing washer part number for my car oil drain plug seem to be aluminum, and I've never had any leaks, so soft aluminum should work as well.
Thank you for this. It just came across my feed randomly. I tried searching it a couple of times, and all of the results were pretty much about washing machines and selling me hardware, no real explanation of the purpose of a washer, even when adding the word "bolt".
You're very welcome! Read the comments as well, there are tons of great additions to the basics I shares. Stop back again!
traditional split lock washers actually harm fastening securement compared to the same material flat washer. AvE did some high precision testing.
Thanks for the comment. I know there has been some interesting discussion and research of various lock washers. And, a lot of good comments on this video. Definitely no solution is failure proof, and we grow over time. Thanks for watching!
Great vid ty. Always had to guess what washers were for 💀💀💀💀 great info
Thanks for watching, cheers!
I don't get how the load from the perspective of the bolt head would be spread more against the washer than against whatever else metal surface the bolt head would be pushing?
Fair question. So, as an early video I definitely should have added some real examples, learning curve. A couple things. Depending upon the material being clamped with the bolt, the underside of the bolt head doesn't have mich surface area. With this material like sheet metal, you could draw the bolt head through, or similarly with wood, that head can contine to be pulled into the material. A washer sized to the bolt will spread that force out against the parent material and minimize pull through or deformity.
Another example being a hole that is not sized perfectly for the hardware, slotted, or maybe has a bushing that will wear over time. The washer spreads out the surface area of the bolt head (maybe poorly stated 'spreads the load/area').
Make sense what I was "trying" to explain?
Thanks for watching, cheers!
I'm still not sure, !! Here in the UK when erecting structural steel,
we only use washers on the nut side of a joint, unless it's a HSFG joint, I really think in this case the washer is used to stop damage and act as a "buffer" when doing up the nut (which is what we generally do here )
Have you worked on big erections?
Ironworker, awesome, thanks for commenting. I worked in commercial construction for about 10 years and recall the LeJeune bolts always (I think) having a washered nut. Used to have one laying on my desk because it was like a question rod, most didn't know what it was. I'll have to look up that washers specific purpose in structural, now I'm curious. Cheers.
@@LearnedFromDad Yes Washers have been used since nuts and bolts were invented, so they must have a purpose, I'm sure there will many different answers to our question?
Flat washers are also good to help protect painted surfaces against damage from the twisting of the bolt or from contact of the socket against the paint if you are using a ratchet wrench.
Yes, great comment. There were a few other reason for washer use I should have mentioned. Cheers!
Depending on where you're from and what you were taught the washers might be named differently, I'm from Australia and where I've worked, split washers were called spring washers, internal and external star washers are shakeproof washers and belville are referred to as cup washers, it would be interesting to hear what other places name them
Thanks for commenting from AU! And yes, as I've traveled the world for work for work and pleasure, and always get a kick out of learning the unique terms for things. I was fortunate enough to have spent a couple weeks working through NSW and Queensland. Take care!
I've heard that somewhat recent dedicated studies have shown that locking washers don't actually work the way that they were just assumed to for decades and should be abandoned.
Yes, several have mentioned that. And, also mentioned the newer Nord-Lok style lock washer which looks fascinating. I was standing next to a piece of equipment a couple days ago and noticed a few split right lock washers, in an area with some vibration, and thought about all the comments on not holding. Cheers!
In addition to the uses cited, washers are also used as spacers, e.g. on an axle between a wheel and a wagon body. The purpose here is to prevent the spinning wheel from rubbing against the wagon.
Thanks for sharing. Absolutely, there were a couple simple, common uses I missed including spacing/shimming. Appreciate you adding that. Take good care.
If you put bolts in a machine with vibration use caulk silicone as thread locker, for me works every time.
Interesting technique, I hadn't heard of that one. Thanks for sharing.
Seems that only the nord-lock and similar styles actually resist loosening from vibration etc.. The tension supplied by the concave or the split washer is minimal compared to the actual clamping force of the bolt tension.
I've read other make very similar comments. I've got tons of them, from who knows where, but never use. I like flanged lock nuts typically for the random stuff I do around my home/farm.
Washers also help to not damage the mating surface as you wrench it down (a bolt alone will scratch off the metal/plating as you tighten).
Great and valid point. Thanks for adding that.
One of the purposes of the Spring washer is to dig in under the Bold head and the Body.if you look at the Spring Washer Gap from the side you will see the Splits are designed when compressed to dig in as an anti vibration and reduce the possibility of the Bolt undoing.
Another washer you did not mention was the 'Tab" washer that has two tabs, One tab is tapped down to lock against the Body Material, and the other tab is bent up against the Nut Flat so Locking the Nut or Bolt Head from undoing due to vibration.
Ahhhh, yes, didn't think about tab washers.....I'll have to dig through my bins, not sure I have any on hand, but have come across them occasionally in my career.
Jolly good mate. Cheers 🍻
Thanks for watching, cheers!
Washers also protect the main material from being damaged as the nut is twisted. It could gall or scrape the main material.
Yes, definitely, and I should have mentioned. Kept it overly simple, but loving all the shared comments. Thanks for watching and adding!
Very good explained.
Glad you liked it!
This educational video nicely explains why I too was wrong and why split-washers are not effective in locking the nuts (the split washer is discussed from 39:00 for about a minute - the link should open at that time in the video):
th-cam.com/video/vkbBpAOM4kM/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for sharing, I'll have a look!
Thank you :)
You're welcome! Stop back often, lots of learning to come. Cheers!
Really helpful video, thanks for sharing.
Glad it was helpful! Hopefully you took some time to look at the comments, tons there beyond the basics I provided. Stop back soon, more to come!
Don't forget: cup washers - usually decorative; washers used to more easily allow the bolt to rotate and tighten - often nylon or similar material; crush or sealing washers - used to seal a gas or liquid port such as oil pan drain; ...
Great tip!
Cup washers are use when a countersunk screw is used when a panhead, cheesehead or roundhead would be a better solution.
Great video
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for the visit. Cheers!
NASA has demonstrated that lock washers provide little or no additional holding force. So using them adds no value other than spacing.
NASA, now there's an outfit I trust. Space Shuttle o-rings at 25° = kaboom.
Others have mentioned that, and I'm not surprised. I'd love to learn more about the NASA investigation, just haven't had time to research. And, I want to experience the Nord Lock washers many have talked about.
@@johnkomosa9508 You do know you are comparing administrator political decision verses engineering analysis. I remember seeing images of the shuttle launch towers with ice cycles hanging of of them, and thought they wouldn't launch with the temperature below 0'C. I guess they thought they knew better than me. That is what happens when politicians and contractors are under pressure to launch.
How about the opposite of the lock-tight with something like your spark plug to keep parts that heat a lot from not locking so as to be able to remove later?
Good point, anti-seize. Also known as one of the best (worst) mechanic pranking substances 😄
Should the washer always be on the bolt side?
The short answer is that it depends on the situation and material.
In a general situation of spreading load, it would work on either side. BUT...in the case of the one washer he had which was a large outer diameter with a very small hole, it's different. That type of washer is known as a "fender washer" because it's commonly used on auto body sheet metal. The reason? It's so large that it spreads the total load over a larger area, reducing the chance of distorting the thin metal that fenders and other body panels are made of. So in that situation if you place it on the nut side, the head side may be imprinted by the small surface area of the bolt head concentrating all of the fastening force into a small perimeter.
On most surfaces you really wouldn't care about a little distortion because most surfaces would be much thicker/harder. On things like, for example, a wooden children's backyard play set, I would put a washer under the bolt head AND the nut because wood is usually soft, so the washer would spread the load under the bolt head and it would also keep the nut from digging into the wood as you tightened the nut.
Sorry for delay in responding. I read the other reply and he said very well what I agree with, and have seen. Really depends on the situation and joint.
I also appreciate the other reply calling out a 'fender' washer. I had one in my hand in the video, but didn't call ot out as my original audience intent was those very new to such a simple part, and I could hear my kids in my head saying "dad, we do care about the micro differences " 😀 Thanks for watching, take care!
thanks for the useful video!
You're welcome. Please stop back soon, so much more to come!
I didn't know what I didn't know. Good video.
Glad you liked it!
i know what washers do.
theyre always a half mm too small for the bolt, and you can only ever find three when you need four...
and they ALWAYS land on their edge and roll away down the ONLY crack in the workshop floor...
Hahaha, our experiences are similar 😆
Accurate
Exactly right 😂
Yip, that's their main purpose. 😏
And you always find that lost washer much later when you no longer need it.
For fixings that do not require regular maintenance checks nyloc nuts are pretty good, limited reuse they will degrade quickly because it’s nylon.
Agree, great choice and I run into a lot of them. Only dislike (me whining) is having to wrench/ratchet them all the way off. However, why wouldn't I just use an impact anyway 😁
Great video
Thank you
Glad you enjoyed it!
The washer goes under the nut to reduce friction when tightening.
A lock washer can go under the bolt head or the nut. One thing I always did was check with a engamanere
But what about the friction between the bolt head and the washer?
@@mynameisben123 Washers, bolts, and nuts will often be zinc coated, which is a lower friction surface than painted parts which are being bolted.
Why would you want to reduce friction torquing a bolt?
Examples please.
Thanks for mentioning. Definitely a use case others have mentioned too. Thanks for watching.
This might be a bit niche, but i found my cat trees have 5/8-18 bolts. So I got some rubber feet with a 5/8 hole to get them above the floor. But I would like another half inch for airflow that I think I can get with washers.
Sure thing, you could stack some washers to gain some space. Or, for a more controlled/consistent dimension use some bushings. Take care!
Not sue if it's the same thing but in the UK that bellvue washer may be known a spring washer....
A few others have comment the same. I always enjoy learning what things are called in different places as I've traveled the world. These videos have been fun as it give me global discussion even if I'm still at home in the US. Thanks for watching, take care, and stop back soon!
What's with the Nord-Lock washers?
I've never encountered them, yet, but interested. I'd be curious if others could tell us where they are seeing them used? Maybe their use is driven by particular industry?
So why don't bolt mfr.s just make all bolts with that widened head (and then if you still need a lock washer, etc., you could still use one for that purpose instead of just using the "built-in washer" in the bold head)?
In some applications there just is no space for those wide heads and depending on what you are bolting or screwing together it is not allways needed.
In my time working for a manufacturer, I've learned there is always a reason. May not be one a person likes (such as cost, or it's something already stocked in the plant, etc). I do enjoy the wide flanged heads on bolts.
@@LearnedFromDad: Of course there's always a reason. But then... there's a reason for EVERYTHING that ever happens or exists anyway, so that isn't really saying much. However, certain things have their _purposes,_ and those are what's noteworthy. Because obviously things are already stocked, but my question would be why they started off without built-in washers (meaning that if they hadn't, then stock wouldn't be a factor). But yeah, sounds like part of it is what Ensen said. Thanks for your reply.
Those washers aren’t sorted enough for my OCD. Where do I put my NAS washers?
Haha, yeah, need more bins!
I have been 2 that town where the Bellville washers are from.
Awesome! I've traveled a ton in my career and it's always fun to come across a place that has some interesting manufacturing. Thanks for watching.
The 'fixing' washers are to keep the bolt from backing out, main purpose. easy to find bette options
Thanks for sharing!
Washers keep the contact surfaces of the nut and bolt clean. They were designed by Joe Washingstuff, the inventor of the washing machine.
Hahaha, I had to read that twice 😁
I also use them to protect the surface I'm putting the bolt or screw into, especially with softer material like wood. They can work as spacers too. I've been known to use them to cheat with bolt or screw size, to allow a fastener with a small head to fit in a larger hole. (I know, I know... "that's what she said.")
Great comment, thanks!
Hay trolley and Motion Pro. My same mix of interests!
Oh yes! I've got such a wide variety of interests. Thanks for watching....more to come!
I often used washers when the hole was too big for the bolt.
Another use is if the bolts you have are too long.
Great points, absolutely, thanks for adding that. Cheers!
3 secs in but had to "like" for channel name alone. Great name!
Thank you! My kids came up with it, always trying to educate them. #1, be good, kind, humans, and everything else after.
Good info, thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent video
Thank you very much!
Spreading the load is only really relevant on bolts in wood or very soft materials. The main reason for flat washers is to keep the nut or screw from galling the surface of the material being fastened. That is why bolts often don’t have washers as the normal practice is to hold the bolt fixed and turn the nut, hence the washer under the nut. THAT is the main purpose of a flat washer. Obviously, lock washers have a different function as the name suggests.
I see holes ground into thinner metals from people neglecting to use washers with hex bolts in high vibration applications. Mild steel sheet metal isn't that tough.
Great comment, appreciate you adding. Parent material certainly does matter.
I often use flange washers to distribute the bolt/nut’s pressure on today’s thinner materials.
Thanks for sharing. Absolutely, minimize parent material deflection or pull through. Appreciate you checking out the channel!
You can make a split washer by cutting a standard one at some point on the circumference.
Solid emergency hack!
Nice video.. thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
I am sorry at 1:29 this is not a bolt, this is a screw. A bolt is a length of threaded rod, inserted into two mating holes of two pieces of ie. metal, that is fixed by nuts at either end. A screw is any and all types of fixings that can be screwed into a hole, either blank or threaded, by the use of a tool; screwdriver or wrench or socket.
Completely understand. I should have grabbed something more appropriate to make the 'bolt' reference versus a technical screw. Appreciate the correction.
You had a dad to learn this stuff from? That sounds awesome. My dad went to the store to buy a pack of cigarettes in 1996. Mom says he'll be home soon.
You have a mom? That sounds awesome. My mom went to the store to find my dad in 1996. Pack of cigarettes says they’ll be home soon.
You have cigarettes? That sounds awesome. Here in britain they are almost outlawed. £25 for 20.
Your real daddy is the milk man
@@sbob17 It thought he was the plumber??
my dad left the pouch of baccy on the shelf in '83.
i found the death certificate in 93.
A small smear of silicone can prevent a nut from loosening caused by off-roading... And it can be removed...
Silicon being a threat locker? Never heard this before.
Stay safe 👍
@@andreasreichwaldt3994 it's mostly used in temporary situations like a "bush fix"... Or something that can't come undone until you want it to... It can also be used in conjunction with washers for waterproofing...
Interesting trick for a bush fix. Or, in my area, referred to as a farmer fix.
Loctight is the bane of my existence
Hahaha, yes, I hear ya! Especially when the last guy who worked on it didn't have medium strength and instead said "ahh, just a little dab of bearing mount will be fine". Take good care.
Nordlok washers work well. Every other locking washer is pretty much useless. Pretension is the most important factor in keeping a bolted joint secure. Tests have proven everything but a nordlok is pointless.
I've had many people comment about Nordlok, but I haven't personally encountered them yet. Any idea what industries commonly use them? And, great comment about tension. Really appreciate you sharing! Cheers.
I work in the oil and gas industry. I used to work as a subsea engineer too, that's when I really got introduced to them. I've used them in both cases, particularly where there is intermittent loading or vibration.
The down side to them is cost. If they were cheap, I'd actually use them for everything. As is, only in a needs must basis.
@@lexzbuddysubsea engineering, wow, fascinating! There isn't much oil and gas around me in Iowa, other than ethanol production....all that corn! I ordered a Nord Lock washer from Amazon, just to see/play with one 😀
@@LearnedFromDad try not to break it :) They work best in pairs, one under the bolt head and the other under the nut. I've witnessed testing and seen for myself, first hand, how much better they perform. I haven't seen anything pass vibration tests like a nordlok. Everything else, pinned, serrated, double nut... all just come apart.
I spoke with a guy that works for the RAF and he said the nuts on aircraft all loosen off eventually. He said the good thing about wired nuts was at least don't loose the nut. Well, if that doesn't worry you, I don't know what will. OK, it's a bit funny too but you get my point.
With all that said, enough load and vibration will defeat any solution, there is no such thing as perfect. But they are head and shoulders better than everything else.
@lexzbuddy hahaha, sounds like I better purchase multiple! And I agree, no design is flawless, always a failure mode. The creativity of either next engineer will fascinate us! Cheers!
Really interesting - thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
In 16th century England and the modern Southern US it was/is called a worsher.
Just like my grandpa used to say!
You are correct. The first "r" in washer is not silent
All southern US slang, accents, morals, behaviours, customs, especially what is referred to today as “Black culture” etc. came from a specific part of England, centuries ago. Professor Thomas Sowell explores this topic.
@@62Cristoforo I was born and raised in Wyoming. My Grandparents were Germans who had migrated to Russia several generations earlier and then came to America. I believe that the pronunciation of the none silent R in washer is more widespread than just the Southern US.