From one dad to another, this makes me happy to hear! Enjoy and let me know what you'd like to see next. Below is the second video I referenced, and a good starter lesson, on quickly identifying metric versus imperial bolt by looking at the bolt head. th-cam.com/video/D9l5Kp6-JNs/w-d-xo.html Cheers farmer!
Very useful. I worked in fastenings in the UK for about 7 years in the early 'noughties, including in the automotive industry. It was starting to become difficult to source imperial-sized nuts & bolts in any sort of volume in the UK at that time - no-one specified imperial-size bolts for new manufacture products, and absolutely everything was metric. You could get imperial made-to-order - but rule of thumb was that less and less suppliers would actually stock imperial. Only exceptions were old model vehicles like the Land Rover Defender - the design was so old that it still specified imperial nuts, bolts & washers - and old carryover special manufacture parts re-used since the 70s for manufacturers like JCB, and things like self-tapping screws, which were still specified in gauge size and imperial lengths. There's a myriad of thread pitches and sizes for imperial fasteners - UNC, UNF, BSF, Whitworth, etc - which are all slightly different (although M6 threads are - by coincidence - interchangeable with 1/4 Whitworth) The good news is that anything metric was and is the standard in the UK & Europe, and 999 times out of 1000 standard coarse pitch threads - easy. And all came in standard sizes - M4, M5, M6, M8, M10, M12, M16, M18, M20 - and standard lengths with the same gaps as the diameters (with multiples of 5mm from 20mm long and upwards). Even the Ford Worldwide parts catalogue had a load of metric fasteners in it! So I think North America is pretty much an anachronism when it comes to inch size bolts & nuts - the rest of the world went metric years ago!
Thanks for watching and the comment. I would love it if the USA would switch to metric everything. I work in both systems daily, and it's a chore to switch back and forth, just like speaking two different languages!
In the Uk, from Ford at Dagenham all the threads were A F, American Finethread. Motorcycles like B S A Norton Matchless ETC were BSF British standard Finethread and and Whitworth. Most British made vehicles used the same threads. Nuts and bolts for engineering and construction were mainly the same British threads except for specialist things that needed super fine threads like dials calibration tools etc.
Hi, the old british motorcycle fine thread were 26tpi, and generally called cycle thread, a leftover from the early days of putting engines into beefed up cycle frames, as All pedal cycles were 26tpi fasteners. Hope this helps, Atb.
Well I am building a model steam engine at the moment. Everything is imperial with bolts ranging from 2BA to 7BA. You can still get hardware and taps/dies for these. My new dial calliper is imperial only. I like machining to whole numbers not weird decimals. OK I have 29 reamers in my set rather than 9 but at least I can make more precise holes for crankshafts, rods etc. The worst thing about metric is you cannot divide by 3. Ouchhh!!!
James, I love what you are doing with this channel. The “dad” thing, in my humble opinion, is partly about teaching people how to do things, but mostly about teaching people how to think about the things they do. That’s the on ramp to developing skills and abilities that carry you through life and stay with you (as you remarked in your intro video) even when your teacher is gone. Looking forward to more videos!
Thanks a bunch for this comment, that is exactly what my goal was. And, literally for my own children to have for the future, but also share with others who may benefit. Appreciate you enjoying!
When I was young I would've never believed someone if they told me I'd watch a 10 minute video on bolts one day! But I did and I really enjoyed it! Thanks Dad. I'm actually curious about the demographics of this video audience haha, I feel like it's probably just a bunch of old guys just chillin
Haha, interesting how what we're willing to do/watch changes with age....same here! Interestingly, yes, thus far my channel has had a pretty strong demographic of older males watching. Which, as long as people are learning and sharing, great! Definitely (originally) thought much of my content will be most helpful for the 20-30 something person, DIY mom's, etc....to which in due time as they need it specifically, then likely. Either way, I've been having fun doing it and learning myself. Thanks for all the comments and conversation, an extra element of making this enjoyable!
@19Edurne awesome! So happy you're here, I hope you enjoyed. I've trained mechanics globally in the past, but when I started this channel I didn't really realize the global stretch I'd have right away, so fun! And, honestly, many times when I'm thinking about content I often have younger humans and females in mind. Hope to see you back soon. Cheers!
Good video. I differ on your dismissing of thread gauges. They are inexpensive and compact tools compared to thread checkers. Over time one visually learns the range of thread profiles by fanning out the blades. They become a fast way to identify a thread.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts! And yes, might have been a bit hasty to dismiss as much as I did. While making this video, I had the 'average person/homeowner' on my mind who would be unlikely to own such tools, and likely only be exposed to a pretty select set of pitches. What is interesting and fun is I'm learning right along with everyone else, while I make these videos and read comments. Various considerations I've never had before in my 20yrs as an educator, in particular the global audience and variables. Always growing! Thanks for watching and stop back soon, much more to come. Stay curious!
Good video with accurate information. I have a plate with both metric and SAE for bolts and nuts. But I also have the thread pitch gauge as well. Some time I use one over the other depending what I am doing. So many times metric and SAE are so close they basically look the same until you try to use one for the other. So having the gauges makes quick work of sorting them out... Thumbs Up!
Well explained, just a point to add, a lot of old bolts (or nuts) are damaged beyond seeing marks on the head or theads are stripped. This can be s challenge here in Canada where both metric and Imperial (SAE, standard) are used.
I've made up a few boards made up of a 1.5" wide scrap of laminate flooring, with bolts/nuts through them in marked sizes. I've got both SAE and Metric boards. The Metric boards cover both the course and fine sizes, whilst the SAE board only covers the course sizes. I've always wanted a store bought set of thread gauges, but never justified spending the money, so when I was sorting out my hardware last year, I made up my own board mounted version. Figuring out the actual size, if you have the bolt in hand, is easy to figure out by measuring the size of the head. All hardware stores also have bolt checkers in their hardware department so you can take it to the store and they can figure out what you need if you ask nicely. Thread gauges are also cheap and common, and as different diameters have different threads, you can figure it out from them.
I know, right! I've learned in my years of working in design, there is always a reason, and that is one I'd like to know. Maybe something like a hex bolt has 6points, so they wanted to max out at that. Someone may know and comment if we're lucky.
In the UK you had: UNC, UNF, Whitworth, BSPT, BSPP. Plus a few more I have forgotten. My 1995 Landrover had a mix of metric and SAE fixings on it and the seat belt mounts were something else, but dont remember what exactly.
The mixed bag is always entertaining. On ag products I work with in my day job, we've moved towards metric hardware almost exclusively, but often have random 'inch' hardware that came on came on an off-the-shelf purchased component from a supplier.
You have omitted Aircraft fixed pitch series bolts, which America used to be fond of to keep spares prices high. Whitworth, Sae, Unified series for automotive use. Metric fine, medium and course. Its a minefield, and one needs a pitch gauge set, and a shadow machine to measure thread angles. And then there are Indian made with a swinging breezeblock threads! often 47 degree angle threads.
Mine field is right! Especially to a common person just trying to replace a piece of hardware that fell out of something in their daily life. Hopefully this video was just enough for them to understand, but no be overwhelming.
Where did you get the two tools for checking metric and standard bolts and nuts and what's the tool called ? I like to draw on a string and you can hang them up so they're easy access .
I bought them from Amazon, there are a variety of different styles, but I prefer the ones I have. They are called a Thread Checker. I dropped a link in the description to the one I have, but several styles exist to explore.
Agree, 100%! This was dully intended for the average human to help them at a glance understand (hopefully) metric versus inch/imperial. I'm definitely enjoying all the added details in the comments!
As a child, the first identifier of a bolt I learned from my Dad was diameter or shaft size. Then thread pitch, fine or coarse. That was enough for me to get him the bolt he requested. I soon learned to identify size and thread pitch by sight. Then he would ask for a wrench to tighten the 3/8" bolt I had just handed him. This was his next lesson, 1/4" is 7/16", 5/16" is 1/2" and 3/8" is 9/16", wrench, and so on. As a kid, this learning experience made me proud, I learned something In the garage with my Dad.
That is a great memory. I've struggled with my kids not (yet) taking much of an interest in "hands-on" things. But, they do like watching my videos....so my trickery is working! Someday I'm sure they'll enjoy time in the garage with dad.
@@LearnedFromDad I'm sure your kids will really appreciate these videos one day. Like Scott, the Essential Craftsman's family will really appreciate his videos. I'm sure there are lots of other good examples too.
@@bruce-le-smith I sure hope so. They do watch every video, and the do talk about them, so I know they're learning. And, as I talk to people about my channel purpose, it's amazing the stories I hear about the most basic things they were never taught. Helping the world feels great.
Howdy, i had just had your video about washers reccomended to me earlier. I was thinking about it the other day so im glad the topic came up. I actually got this video in my reccomend as well a bit after, and i didn't realize i wasn't subscribed to you or havent seen you before. of course an easy sub, I'm surprised to see such low numbers with your concise explanation and good cadence. Best of luck with your TH-cam journey! you have a polished feel already, and apparently the algorithm has picked up your chennel to reccomend to new people. I think if you keep posting, perhaps ask some question to the viewer or some way to help with engagement in the comments, and i think youll be well on the way to start growing quick. Keep up the good work! Now im gonna restart the video and actually listen to what you're teaching lol. Sorry for the ramble. Also, i had broken a bolt on a customers front sway bar mounting bracket. The bolt had a washer with it, but the new replacement bolt did not have one that was fitted to the head. Just in case i decided to take the time to widen out a washer i had so it would fit over the threads, i figured if it has washers from factory there ought to be a reason. I am not an engineer, but its my job to do this job to the best of my ability, and if something needs replacing id like to make sure its done correctly. It just got me thinking more about the engimeering behind bolts, nuts, washers, thread pitch etc. And, the reason why they are applied in the areas the are. Again, sorry to ramble, but I enjoy knowing and understanding why things are done the way they are, so its fascinating to be able to have this incredible access to the internet where we can all learn the absolute ins and outs of any topic of our choosing. Nice video! And best wishes with your channel!
I really appreciate the "ramble", meant a lot. My kids and I are having fun doing this. I enjoy educating, but also learning, which I'm able to do a lot of through people's comments, and more. Take good care!
The thread checker that you have an affiliate link to does not have the common 12-24 size in it. But then neither do any other thread checkers of that style that I have seen. There are also metric sizes it does not have. The "screw chek'r" brand plates have many sizes that are missing from your suggested thread checker, but they only work for bolts, not nuts. I have yet to find a screw size checking system that works for all the common sizes of screws, let alone the less common sizes. I learned this very quickly when I tried sorting the screws I had. I found I had a lot of 12-24 screws, and a lot of screws I have not been able to identify yet.
Thanks for the comment. Agree with so many different sizes that finding a universal check tool is a challenge. I rarely work with machine screws so I hadn't noticed.
In my shop I have spare oil drain plugs for my vehicles. BUT, what size be they? I took 1 of each of the 4 different sized to ACE and found a nut for each one, took them all home to my shop & put the nuts in my parts cabinet in the same drawer as the plugs for quick reference. !
Great question. I'll let the engineers watching give hyper-detailed reasons, though I suspect it has something to do with the strength of the grip. Example, like you/me holding onto a bar with 3 really strong fingers versus holding on with 5-6 medium strength fingers....the holding force is more spread out to better. Curious to see others explain the micro detail!
Coarse-thread bolts are for common hardware applications. They are easier and faster than fine machine threads. For example when you are up on a ladder in the wind bolting together something like channel struts you want a thread for oversized holes that is easy to start by hand and can be rapidly driven tight. Fine thread machine bolts or screws are for precise component fitting where you are in a situation needing fussy fitting.
A good and useful explanation as to how to identify a bolt or nut size and type. HOWEVER, you omitted two more important factors in identifying a thread type, and those are the Thread ANGLE and Thread FORM. Each thread series has its own angles and shapes eg: BSW and BSF are both 55 degrees, BA is 47 degrees, UNC, UNF, UNEF and METRIC are all 60 degrees. Then there is the tread form such as V, Acme, Square, Round, Buttress and MULTI START. There is a lot more to threads than you have explained, but it is a good start.
Thanks for the great comment. Yes, definitely more to the "thread" story in some situations, but intentionally stopped short of that trying to help the average person understand the basics/typical norm. Been some fun comments from people about the unique threads they've come across. One unique thread I've encountered, to aid with joint locking, is Spiral Lock threads on nuts. Interesting concept. Have you ever encountered those? Cheers!
@moss8448 some others have mentioned that, but I haven't yet experienced them. I have been meaning to look them up in my Machinery Handbook, but haven't had the chance yet.
There are measurement tools, just like those for thickness. They are with different thread sizes on them. Just compare. Easier and faster. You have only to know/measure, the size of the bolt..
Hello, thanks for such a good video. I wonder if you happens to know what standards follow the Korean cars? I have a Daewo-Pontiac Spark butmost of its fasteners just have a big number maked on their head 7, 10 , 6 etc only the ones in the knuckle to strut fasteners are marked by diagonal dashes according to SAE, they are al milimetric. Best regards
You and some others asked this same question. My Kubota lawn more has the same. I FINALLY figured out what they are and was excited about it so made you all another video on that exact topic. They are a specific vintage of Japanese Industrial Standard bolt and the number is a strength class. Enjoy this video! th-cam.com/video/fDhsn6kLmVE/w-d-xo.html
This was great and you have a new Subscriber. I have seen similar thread checkers at a much higher price so I immediately ordered from your link. Thanks a lot
Here's something weird for you: the rear axle on my 1991 Trek 820 mountain bike is 10mm in diameter, but the thread pitch is 26 threads per inch! So, that's two different measurement systems used in a single part. I found this out the hard way when I was replacing worn bearing cones. Two sizes of cones were available: M10 with 1mm threads, and M10 with 26 tpi. I assumed that it was the former (why would anyone mix metric and English standards in the same part?). The two thread sizes are close enough that the thin lock nut that gets wedged against the bearing cone would thread onto the axle even though the nut was a 1mm thread and the axle is 26 tpi. However, the bearing cone is longer, and the error accumulates, and the cone with 1mm threads won't work on the 26 tpi axle. Why anyone would design the axle that way is beyond me.
@@johnkangas7350 There is no such thing as an M10 with 26 tpi and to think that the two sizes are close enough is not a clever thing to hope for . It probably is 3/8” BSC . It’s this close enough that could hypothetically be deadly .
@@vankuipland I probably wouldn’t have believed it either if I hadn’t experienced it firsthand. Here is the URL for the bearing cone I bought for my bike (Wheels Manufacturing part number CN-R085): wheelsmfg.com/products/hub-parts/all-cones/cn-r085.html The description clearly states “Compatible with 10mm x 26 axle”. QED I was not “hoping” that the two thread sizes were close to each other, I was just observing that they are. A 1mm thread pitch is equivalent to 25.4 tpi, which is close to 26 tpi. A thin M10 x 1 nut DOES thread onto my axle. I never suggested that anyone actually use a M10 x 1 nut in this application.
@@vankuipland I probably wouldn’t have believed it either if I hadn’t experienced it firsthand. The bearing cone I bought for my bike is Wheels Manufacturing part number CN-R085. Just Google that phrase, and you'll find it. The description of the part clearly states “Compatible with 10mm x 26 axle”. QED I was not “hoping” that the two thread sizes were close to each other, I was just observing that they are. A 1mm thread pitch is equivalent to 25.4 tpi, which is close to 26 tpi. A thin M10 x 1 nut DOES thread onto my axle. I never suggested that anyone actually use a M10 x 1 nut in this application.
Without caliper I just imprint the thread on a piece of paper and then check the indents on flat paper with a simple ruler over as many threads as possible. Same applies to circling a bolt with paper for getting the diameter. It's like using a 3.14 magnifier lens. It's good enough for any standard bolts even to distuingish imperial and metric with a look-up table. It works well on fine threads like on cameras and camera lenses/filters.
Years ago we had a few machines made in England before WW2. Bolts would not match up with SAE or metric bolts. Old time mechanic told us they called them bastard threads. At one time England had their own sizes & threads. Back in the 1990's while working at a newspaper engineers at Goss presses decided to change over presses made & sold in the USA to be made with metric hardware. Had thousands of bolts on the printing presses. Some metric, some SAE. Reminded me of the 1984 Ford LTD that I owned. Started to replace the alternator and first bolt that I throw a socket on was metric. Okay. Put my SAE sockets & combination wrenches away and bought out my metric. Of course second alternator bolt was SAE.
I've been enjoying reading comments about all the random thread types, sizes from people. It's been a fun learning experience for me....exposure to new things. And, I chuckled at the Ford LTD comment, classic. I was a Chevy and Buick guy myself.
You have a dear old chap called Whitworth for standardizing bolt and nut threads. Not so much size or thread form but being able to interchange like threads with other like threads, not hand made nuts and bolts which required 'fitting' to each other individually, blame him as an arms manufacturer requiring accuracy throughout his machines
Not only that but being able to look at a bolt or nut from several feet away and know what it is will save you a lot of time over the course of a career.
I bet you had some interesting customer encounters. My hope for these basic videos was to help those average folks to come in with (maybe) slightly more knowledgeable to help themselves at least ask somewhat educated questions.
There is, but much less consistent and more difficult to discern. Sometimes you'll see lines or dots on the nut. The Fastnal document I referenced had some notes on it.
I'm a little confused as to which measurement is used to determine the size of a bolt. Is it the diameter, the thread count per inch (the distance between threads), or the length of the bolt?
I'm glad you asked. I should have visualized some text on screen to better clarify. I'll give an example of an imperial/inch bolt, but metric is similar. You walk into a store and see a bin labeled 1/2"-13x3", for example. The 1/2" is the bolt diameter, and is the value communicated when someone is talking about the 'size' (diameter) of a bolt. Then, a good co-worker will next ask "well, 1/2" diameter, but what threads per inch, and overall length, do you need?". Now, while 'size' is referencing the diameter, I'll say in the mechanical world it's most common to alway reference the diameter and threads together when communicating, because those two elements really work together. So, you might say "I need a 1/4"-20 bolt" or "I need an M12-1.25 bolt".......from there you just need to clarify the length needed. Hope that helps!
Nice video I’ve never seen those thread checker sets before, I always used a thread gauge Here is a little tip to go with metric bolts, do you know how to determine the bolt head/ spanner size for a given bolt diameter? Bolt diameter x 1.5 +1. ( up-to 14mm iirc after that just it’s just x1.5) 8mm bolt x 1.5 = 12 +1 = 13., 13mm spanner
That's an awesome tip! I was not aware. And, you call them spanners instead of wrenches....where do you call home? I remember the first time I was in South Africa teaching, asked for a wrench, and they brought me a ratchet. Thought they were teasing me, until they figured out I was asking for a spanner.....then we all had a good laugh 😂
I live in the UK .Yes we call them spanners. Glad you found the tip useful. Great channel, keep up the good work and all the best to you and your family from the UK.
Great video. I'm In Australia. We still have plenty of machinery and vehicles that use SAE and AF. I was brought up by a marine engineer who could just look at a bolt and say what it was. He had spanners and socket sets for everything. I love metric but I still have SAE and metric spanners and socket sets because I still encounter so much SAE stuff. Perhaps you or @MrChrissy1r could explain the various types of threads, as in AF, Whitworth, BSP, machine thread. I can't rememberthem all. I if I get stuck, I do what you suggest and take a sample to the store so that they can use their testing kits.
I'm glad you enjoyed. In my lifetime I definitely expect to alway have both metric and inch tools, just so much of both (though I've seen a big change in the US toward metric hardware). Regarding other threads, good suggestion. I was just looking in my Machinery Handbook tonight, learning more about some of the alternative threads I haven't experienced, such as Whitworth. I'll take that down as a consideration. Cheers!
James this is excellent , I love hardware , I have several boxes of screws ,bolts, nuts etc. There are, as you pointed out is quite involved . Thread pitch , left hand thread , grade and on and on. I have a set like this on Amazon. So one day I got my checker box out and to my surprise , I have some and nuts and bolts that didn't work on any of my checkers! I determined that since I collected these from I don't know where, that came off of an alien spacecraft and I put them in the recycle. One shade tree trick is to take a bolt that you think is metric and try a standard nut , it will thread a couple of turns and stop ., that bolt is more than likely going to be metric. That is to say that bolt and nut threads are good and buggered up! One thing you didn't cover , was left hand thread ,but I figure that most home owners are not to run into very often.
Thanks for commenting on this video as well, and sharing your experiences. I did the same with my giant bucket of bolts, sat and checked them all one day to organize into bins. I didn't come across any unique, but several comments have been made about some very unique hardware experiences. And absolutely, left thread, I'll definitely touch on that in another video as even a home owner or farmer will encounter such occasional, such as in a rotating part. Cheers!
@@LearnedFromDad As a mechanic I run into odd fasteners frequently. I have found that metric standard is not standard everywhere. Apparently some countries use 7,9,11 and 15 mm sizes for random hardware. This really throws you when checking sizes. Most metrics also have 3 common thread pitches. Also should mention that JIS metric standard has been used in most automobile manufacturing for 30 years but is almost unavailable in the hardware distribution systems in the USA. I have to special order almost every common size replacement bolts. Most common USA metric fasteners have oversized head and nut compared to factory parts and usually won't fit in recessed machined parts. I don't see this in fasteners on anything imported from the rest of the world. Biggest irony is SAE standard fasteners are FAR less expensive than any metric fasteners but the majority are made in China, not the US!
Yeah, I love those checkers. Not really something I "needed" but I bought a big lot of random hardware at an auction and wanted to sort....sooooo, excuse to buy a set! Take care!
As a fellow content creator(although I' gave up during Adpocolypse 1.0, when I was demonetized due to being too small a channel, and as I'd hoped to create a secondary income stream from videoing what I was already doing, I'd literally only made $27 in 2yrs, and never even cashed it out); I'd like to suggest some diversification of you content. Not saying all the thread/bolt content isn't interesting, but it's a rather niche market. Based on the channel name, I'd suggest mixing in topics such as "changing a tire", "changing the oil", "checking a level for accuracy", ect.
Thanks for the comment! And, absolutely, tons of topics like those you suggested to come. I started the channel and then took my kids on vacation, so had a brief pause, but getting back to it and having fun.
@@LearnedFromDad it is a good point to not "pigeon hole" yourself when it comes to content, it never hurts to branch out and dont worry if those videos dont get the same engagement. Its better to try something new than to become the oil change guy or the guy who only does fun facts. However, niches also exist for a reason, and they still do thrive. The internet is a lovely place in that regard in general. Whatever you want to do or however you want to take the channel is up to you, of course. I would say, in my opinion if you were focused on growing the channel, maybe videos in a similar style to the well performing ones might continue to do well. Branching out never hurts either though, so the best thing is to just keep posting and do it as consistent as possible. i think you have a very incredible start with the engagement youve gotten over 9 videos posted relatively close together. If you want this to become a career, I believe its an option
@paladinkhan I really appreciate your comment. As I keep telling my kids, it's important that I/we are having fun with it.....and we are. I love to educate, and learn, and building this channel is providing both those things for me. So much more learning to come, for all!!
You also have the grip. The grip is the amount of thread. You also have the style of bolt, carriage, cap screw etc. Then there is the coating. You have black, zinc electroplated and hot dipped galvanized. Those are the major ones at the big box stores. For corrosion, cadmium-plated is the best but it is not environmentally friendly and very expensive. Toyota was known for their cadmium-plated bolts. The coating on a zinc electro plated bolt is too thin for outdoor use and they will rust. The hot dipped galvanized bolts are intended for outdoor use. Hot dipped nuts are overtapped after galvanizing to allow extra room for the zinc coating on the bolt. This means the threads on the nuts are uncoated and subject to rust unless in contact with the bolt; do not leave the unprotected nuts outdoors, the threads will rust. Normally, you cannot fit an electroplated nut on a hot dipped bolt. Conversely, placing a hot dipped nut on an electroplated or black bolt will result in a nut with too much slop.
@@steveC2 Now you’ve done it and opened up the other can of worms I was trying to avoid. Stainless comes in two forms essentially rusting and non-rusting; Austenitic, Ferritic, and Martensitic. You will have to figure it out. Some stainless steels will have intergranulal corrosion issues. Heard a story of stainless steel step bolts being used on a crossing tower in the salt water. After a few years the linemen went out to the tower and the step bolts snapped off when they stepped on them. This rusting is why my knives and Nectgrill rusted and your stainless frig rusts. Bad stainless. Use brass bolts, they are much weaker but don’t rust.
This is an awesome comment. I love engaging with people like you. Definitely was keeping the video average person simple, but love these kind of comments. What kind if engineering work do you perform? Thanks for watching!
@@LearnedFromDadI am a retired civil/structural engineer from the electric power industry. My specialty was foundations that use some of the largest custom made bolts you will find. My endeavors included managing the civil materials for the 350 substations in the system. This included the nuts and bolts. The nuts and bolts were bid out to bolt manufactures and delivered by the truckload. Next time you look at a transmission tower, remember that each angle member is held in by nuts and bolts, a lot of nuts and bolts. Each bolt has to be right for the load and bolt length. You don’t want metric bolts in your A394 tower bolts. I had to resolve the field complaints when the nuts did not thread on the bolts and get the manufacture to replace the out of spec delivery. Most structural designs are limited by the fastener, the nut and bolt. Know your nuts and bolts and you make your job easy. Learn how to find the right type of nut for the bolt. It is all in the ASTM specifications.
Have you got a M6 X 1.25 on that row of gauges? Even some traders of taps and dies have told me that that size doesn't exist, only M6 X 1.0 is what they have. From my research, they are wrong though, it's rare and costs more but a 1.25 can be bought online.
@@dadgarage7966 I gather some Japanese motorcycles use that size, I've found it on a bearing puller tool but that part were broken so I managed to work my way around it by making another part on my lathe and using an adapter basically.
@@LearnedFromDad M6 is larger than M3 so you would have one on that set but I bet that the pitch is 1.0. Like with an M10, there's a 1.0 and a 1.25 pitch, my tap and die set actually contains both of these. I don't get why the M6 1.25 is so rare??
@steveclark.. so, that will teach me to look at small details way too late at night.....for some reason when I went to my garage I was thinking your comment was regarding an M2 bolt😂 Just rechecked my set, it only has M6-1.0
Interesting but alas, doesn't solve my problem. I've got an old Jacobs drill chuck with a threaded male shaft machined on it. I can't find information about this type. (It was salvaged from an old Made in France B&D power drill from the 70's and I would like to use it for a jig but I have no idea what the thread is and I would rather not epoxy it in place.) Shaft length is 11 mm, OD shows 0.367" (9.32 mm) but I have nothing to mesure the pitch accurately and having being raised in metric world, you'll understand your thread charts are a mess to me. The only markings are 1/16 ------ 1/2 (1,5 ------ 13 mm Multi-craft chuck Sheffield England U8304. If anyone knows anything about it... Thanks in advance.
You bet, and definitely understand. Being in the US, for the industries and things I've worked on, I haven't (yet) run into Whitworth. Is there any particular equipment, place, other where that thread type is commonly used? I was looking in my Machinery Handbook a few days ago, reading about that thread type as others have also mentioned it. Thanks for watching, take good care!
Aviation in U.S. inch sizes has its own peculiar "AN' (Army-Navy) system. They are designated in eighths of an inch. For example an "AN-2" bolt is two-eights of an inch -- or 1/4 inch. AN bolts are very expensive.
What is not mentioned is the difference between bolts and set screws. A bolt is one where the threaded section is around 1"/25mm long and the rest of the bolt has a plain shank as your long bolts. A set screw is where the bolt is threaded all the way to the underside of the bolt head. This is vitally important because if you a clamping something down you do not want to run out of thread before you achieve the correct clamping pressure. Also, you don't want a bolt that is fully threaded where there could be fretting or where a part needs to rotate on the plain shank.
In Britain we have at least 3 more to worry about , Whitworth, BA (British association0 and BSP (British standard pipe so thread checkers are essential. I bought a Myford lathe, as a project, mine was made in 1864? So Bsf , whit and BA then One clamp (original fit) 6mm ? and parts list says 6mm. BUT over time owners must have used whatever on hand for repairs and modifications. I was stumped over 2 bolts to find there was a MODEL MAKERS range of sizes. If you want complication I worked repairing US army equipment in Germany their moto jam any bolt in.
I've stumbled upon a little bit of British Pipe Thread with hydraulics on European design/manufactured equipment. The lathe sounds fun and fascinating.
@@LearnedFromDad Always Fun 🤗 Gotta mess with the little ones now and then, to keep them in line. Because you can only swing a Cane So Far,.. metric, or SAE 😏 Just an old aerospace guy. And I think I probably have all my keychain thread gauges from the old days. And hole gauges. And,.. TAPER LOCKS 😳 wtf 🤣 Knowledge not Shared, is Knowledge Wasted 🖖
Amen to "knowledge not shared"! Aerospace and aviation have always fascinated me, just haven't bounced thought that industry....yet😁. Pleased to be out of cane's reach!! Thanks for enjoying and sharing!
Technically speaking a SCREW has threads all the way to the head; a BOLT has an unthreaded shank near the head. Bolts are stronger since the root of the thread is the weakest part. SAE Grade 8 is strongest, Grade 5 is pretty std in the auto industry. In American standards, there are coarse threads (UNC), fine threads (UNF) and extra find threads (UNEF). The finer thread bolts have a larger minimum "root" diameter and are correspondingly stronger but they can't be torqued as much.
Have purchased hex headed cap boots with threads entire length. On the fifth wheel of tractor trailers they used a SAE above 10 or 11. If I was hanging heavy things from a concrete ceiling would use SAE grade 5..
The "Magic Number" to convert Metric to Imperial (inches) and back is 25.4 - divided or multiplied by, using a calculator. I'm an Engineering Inspector (Retired) so measuring is what kept a roof over our heads. 📏🔩🕵
I liked the video but the real problem with bolts are the hundreds of metric bolts that come with almost anything you get from China and they even have hex heads. How do we know the size of these 1/4 inch or smaller that comes with the kits like from IKEA~? Some of the heads are round, some are flat and some are countersunk. Thanks for the Info~!!
Thanks for watching and the comment. Yes, a hard lesson learned by me for not thinking globally about the term 'standard', that was my mistake and I appreciate all those who've corrected me. Funny story, I was talking to my own dad after posting this video....a tool & die maker of 30+ years......and I had to correct him that imperial/inch hardware is not called 'standard', as he was referring. He laughed and said, "I understand" 😀
Sorry for the delay. Age is just a number, that's what I say! I'm generally familiar with Whitworth threads, but have never physically been around them. I need to ask my tool & die maker dad if he's ever worked with them. Take good care!
Heads Up Here SAE has nothing to do with nut and bolt sizes. The standard that once covered thread dimensions was called SAE J475. It has been replaced by ANSI B1.1 as of 1964. If you look in a SAE handbook you will see text telling you to use the ANSI data. There are no printed specs for screw threads in the SAE handbook.
Sorry for the delay in response, I'm behind. I appreciate that comment. I'm definitely one of those Americans who still is overly conditioned to use the slang terms of 'standard' and 'SAE'. Been trying to change that. Cheers!
Understand, and isn't that volume of pitches/forms wild when you thinking about it! When I made this video (one of my early/first ones) I didn't do a good job of considering total audience, including those with a lot of experience as well as global. I was thinking about people like my kids (who know nothing about hardware) so base lesson 1 so they could have an idea of how to measure a bolt that might be on some day to day item. It would have been better suited to be a multi-part set of videos where I talked about the basics, then move on to more detail of different thread pitches, etc. Always learning, even while sharing/educating, which is a passion of mine. Endlessly curious! 😁😁
Yes, busted for sure. My own dad, a tool/die maker for decades, and I were having a good laugh about this topic tonight when he referred to our 'standard' hardware. I corrected him (on behalf of everyone outside the USA) and clarified 'inch' hardware isn't allowed to be called standard anymore....he chuckled.
Definitely agree that as an American, I made the mistake of loosely referring to 'standard'.....relative to inch hardware. I knew better, thanks for the comment.
@@joshhhabwhat about BA size nuts and bolts because fun fact they are metric sized but not ISO? The non ISO metric sizes are not going anywhere fast because there is so much stuff using them in existence.
Hahaha, yeah, I learned the very hard way I made a poor statement there 🤦♂️. Even talking to my dad, a 30yr tool & die maker, was referring to inch/imperial as 'standard'.....I corrected him.....he laughed.
Haha, amen! The challenge I've seen over my life is fewer and fewer are ever exposed to these simple things anymore....so here we are, helping humanity learn!!
We are using this to help on a homeschool lesson on the farm today!
From one dad to another, this makes me happy to hear! Enjoy and let me know what you'd like to see next.
Below is the second video I referenced, and a good starter lesson, on quickly identifying metric versus imperial bolt by looking at the bolt head.
th-cam.com/video/D9l5Kp6-JNs/w-d-xo.html
Cheers farmer!
Very useful.
I worked in fastenings in the UK for about 7 years in the early 'noughties, including in the automotive industry. It was starting to become difficult to source imperial-sized nuts & bolts in any sort of volume in the UK at that time - no-one specified imperial-size bolts for new manufacture products, and absolutely everything was metric. You could get imperial made-to-order - but rule of thumb was that less and less suppliers would actually stock imperial. Only exceptions were old model vehicles like the Land Rover Defender - the design was so old that it still specified imperial nuts, bolts & washers - and old carryover special manufacture parts re-used since the 70s for manufacturers like JCB, and things like self-tapping screws, which were still specified in gauge size and imperial lengths. There's a myriad of thread pitches and sizes for imperial fasteners - UNC, UNF, BSF, Whitworth, etc - which are all slightly different (although M6 threads are - by coincidence - interchangeable with 1/4 Whitworth)
The good news is that anything metric was and is the standard in the UK & Europe, and 999 times out of 1000 standard coarse pitch threads - easy. And all came in standard sizes - M4, M5, M6, M8, M10, M12, M16, M18, M20 - and standard lengths with the same gaps as the diameters (with multiples of 5mm from 20mm long and upwards). Even the Ford Worldwide parts catalogue had a load of metric fasteners in it! So I think North America is pretty much an anachronism when it comes to inch size bolts & nuts - the rest of the world went metric years ago!
Thanks for watching and the comment. I would love it if the USA would switch to metric everything. I work in both systems daily, and it's a chore to switch back and forth, just like speaking two different languages!
In the Uk, from Ford at Dagenham all the threads were A F, American Finethread. Motorcycles like B S A Norton Matchless ETC were BSF British standard Finethread and and Whitworth.
Most British made vehicles used the same threads. Nuts and bolts for engineering and construction were mainly the same British threads except for specialist things that needed super fine threads like dials calibration tools etc.
Hi, the old british motorcycle fine thread were 26tpi, and generally called cycle thread, a leftover from the early days of putting engines into beefed up cycle frames, as All pedal cycles were 26tpi fasteners. Hope this helps, Atb.
Well I am building a model steam engine at the moment. Everything is imperial with bolts ranging from 2BA to 7BA. You can still get hardware and taps/dies for these. My new dial calliper is imperial only. I like machining to whole numbers not weird decimals. OK I have 29 reamers in my set rather than 9 but at least I can make more precise holes for crankshafts, rods etc. The worst thing about metric is you cannot divide by 3. Ouchhh!!!
@@mbak7801I got seriously confused recently when I had to measure a shaft that was imperial with my Vernier caliper. Way easier in metric!
James, I love what you are doing with this channel. The “dad” thing, in my humble opinion, is partly about teaching people how to do things, but mostly about teaching people how to think about the things they do. That’s the on ramp to developing skills and abilities that carry you through life and stay with you (as you remarked in your intro video) even when your teacher is gone. Looking forward to more videos!
Thanks a bunch for this comment, that is exactly what my goal was. And, literally for my own children to have for the future, but also share with others who may benefit. Appreciate you enjoying!
When I was young I would've never believed someone if they told me I'd watch a 10 minute video on bolts one day! But I did and I really enjoyed it! Thanks Dad. I'm actually curious about the demographics of this video audience haha, I feel like it's probably just a bunch of old guys just chillin
Haha, interesting how what we're willing to do/watch changes with age....same here! Interestingly, yes, thus far my channel has had a pretty strong demographic of older males watching. Which, as long as people are learning and sharing, great! Definitely (originally) thought much of my content will be most helpful for the 20-30 something person, DIY mom's, etc....to which in due time as they need it specifically, then likely. Either way, I've been having fun doing it and learning myself. Thanks for all the comments and conversation, an extra element of making this enjoyable!
Glad to prove you wrong. French female here... Who would have thought?... ;)
(Though I'm sure I'm not representative of the majority of the audience.)
@19Edurne awesome! So happy you're here, I hope you enjoyed. I've trained mechanics globally in the past, but when I started this channel I didn't really realize the global stretch I'd have right away, so fun!
And, honestly, many times when I'm thinking about content I often have younger humans and females in mind.
Hope to see you back soon. Cheers!
Brilliant video. Thanks for the explanation.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching.
Good video. I differ on your dismissing of thread gauges. They are inexpensive and compact tools compared to thread checkers. Over time one visually learns the range of thread profiles by fanning out the blades. They become a fast way to identify a thread.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts! And yes, might have been a bit hasty to dismiss as much as I did. While making this video, I had the 'average person/homeowner' on my mind who would be unlikely to own such tools, and likely only be exposed to a pretty select set of pitches.
What is interesting and fun is I'm learning right along with everyone else, while I make these videos and read comments. Various considerations I've never had before in my 20yrs as an educator, in particular the global audience and variables. Always growing!
Thanks for watching and stop back soon, much more to come. Stay curious!
Good video with accurate information. I have a plate with both metric and SAE for bolts and nuts. But I also have the thread pitch gauge as well. Some time I use one over the other depending what I am doing. So many times metric and SAE are so close they basically look the same until you try to use one for the other. So having the gauges makes quick work of sorting them out... Thumbs Up!
Thank you for the comment! Trying to help educate the average person with understandable information.
We have plate style thread checkers here too -- soooo many of them. Whitworth, metric, SAE, coarse, fine, BSP, NPT, JIC.... 🤯
Well explained, just a point to add, a lot of old bolts (or nuts) are damaged beyond seeing marks on the head or theads are stripped. This can be s challenge here in Canada where both metric and Imperial (SAE, standard) are used.
Great point. Living in the Midwest USA, the dreaded road salt destroys everything. Where in Canada? I've got many friends in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan.
@@LearnedFromDad Farm 1/2 hour east of Red Deer Alberta
I've made up a few boards made up of a 1.5" wide scrap of laminate flooring, with bolts/nuts through them in marked sizes. I've got both SAE and Metric boards. The Metric boards cover both the course and fine sizes, whilst the SAE board only covers the course sizes. I've always wanted a store bought set of thread gauges, but never justified spending the money, so when I was sorting out my hardware last year, I made up my own board mounted version. Figuring out the actual size, if you have the bolt in hand, is easy to figure out by measuring the size of the head. All hardware stores also have bolt checkers in their hardware department so you can take it to the store and they can figure out what you need if you ask nicely. Thread gauges are also cheap and common, and as different diameters have different threads, you can figure it out from them.
Great idea!
Amazing thought that went into naming grades of bolts,as it has 3 lines on the bolt so that is a grade 5 bolt!
I know, right! I've learned in my years of working in design, there is always a reason, and that is one I'd like to know. Maybe something like a hex bolt has 6points, so they wanted to max out at that. Someone may know and comment if we're lucky.
In the UK you had: UNC, UNF, Whitworth, BSPT, BSPP. Plus a few more I have forgotten. My 1995 Landrover had a mix of metric and SAE fixings on it and the seat belt mounts were something else, but dont remember what exactly.
@@lrdisco2005 The "something else" the seatbelt mount would be was "Seized" 😏😉😂
The mixed bag is always entertaining. On ag products I work with in my day job, we've moved towards metric hardware almost exclusively, but often have random 'inch' hardware that came on came on an off-the-shelf purchased component from a supplier.
You have omitted Aircraft fixed pitch series bolts, which America used to be fond of to keep spares prices high. Whitworth, Sae, Unified series for automotive use. Metric fine, medium and course. Its a minefield, and one needs a pitch gauge set, and a shadow machine to measure thread angles. And then there are Indian made with a swinging breezeblock threads! often 47 degree angle threads.
Mine field is right! Especially to a common person just trying to replace a piece of hardware that fell out of something in their daily life. Hopefully this video was just enough for them to understand, but no be overwhelming.
Also unc unf etc etc
Where did you get the two tools for checking metric and standard bolts and nuts and what's the tool called ? I like to draw on a string and you can hang them up so they're easy access .
I bought them from Amazon, there are a variety of different styles, but I prefer the ones I have. They are called a Thread Checker. I dropped a link in the description to the one I have, but several styles exist to explore.
Nice primer. Of course, there is quite a bit more to the subject, and some very specific nuances, but a great place to start.
Agree, 100%! This was dully intended for the average human to help them at a glance understand (hopefully) metric versus inch/imperial. I'm definitely enjoying all the added details in the comments!
@@LearnedFromDad I think you hit a better balance with this one than the washer episode.🙂
Easy to determine based on wrench size! I have a bolt sizer but almost never need to use it.
You bet, agree. Cheers!
As a child, the first identifier of a bolt I learned from my Dad was diameter or shaft size. Then thread pitch, fine or coarse. That was enough for me to get him the bolt he requested. I soon learned to identify size and thread pitch by sight. Then he would ask for a wrench to tighten the 3/8" bolt I had just handed him. This was his next lesson, 1/4" is 7/16", 5/16" is 1/2" and 3/8" is 9/16", wrench, and so on. As a kid, this learning experience made me proud, I learned something In the garage with my Dad.
That is a great memory. I've struggled with my kids not (yet) taking much of an interest in "hands-on" things. But, they do like watching my videos....so my trickery is working! Someday I'm sure they'll enjoy time in the garage with dad.
@@LearnedFromDad I'm sure your kids will really appreciate these videos one day. Like Scott, the Essential Craftsman's family will really appreciate his videos. I'm sure there are lots of other good examples too.
@@bruce-le-smith I sure hope so. They do watch every video, and the do talk about them, so I know they're learning. And, as I talk to people about my channel purpose, it's amazing the stories I hear about the most basic things they were never taught. Helping the world feels great.
Howdy, i had just had your video about washers reccomended to me earlier. I was thinking about it the other day so im glad the topic came up. I actually got this video in my reccomend as well a bit after, and i didn't realize i wasn't subscribed to you or havent seen you before. of course an easy sub, I'm surprised to see such low numbers with your concise explanation and good cadence. Best of luck with your TH-cam journey! you have a polished feel already, and apparently the algorithm has picked up your chennel to reccomend to new people. I think if you keep posting, perhaps ask some question to the viewer or some way to help with engagement in the comments, and i think youll be well on the way to start growing quick. Keep up the good work! Now im gonna restart the video and actually listen to what you're teaching lol.
Sorry for the ramble. Also, i had broken a bolt on a customers front sway bar mounting bracket. The bolt had a washer with it, but the new replacement bolt did not have one that was fitted to the head. Just in case i decided to take the time to widen out a washer i had so it would fit over the threads, i figured if it has washers from factory there ought to be a reason. I am not an engineer, but its my job to do this job to the best of my ability, and if something needs replacing id like to make sure its done correctly.
It just got me thinking more about the engimeering behind bolts, nuts, washers, thread pitch etc. And, the reason why they are applied in the areas the are. Again, sorry to ramble, but I enjoy knowing and understanding why things are done the way they are, so its fascinating to be able to have this incredible access to the internet where we can all learn the absolute ins and outs of any topic of our choosing.
Nice video! And best wishes with your channel!
I really appreciate the "ramble", meant a lot. My kids and I are having fun doing this. I enjoy educating, but also learning, which I'm able to do a lot of through people's comments, and more. Take good care!
@@LearnedFromDad thank you much! Best wishes to you both
I found this useful because my hardwear store doesn't have the sizes I want or need. Will use this to buy hardwear online.
Glad it was helpful!
hardware
Very good information, thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
The thread checker that you have an affiliate link to does not have the common 12-24 size in it. But then neither do any other thread checkers of that style that I have seen. There are also metric sizes it does not have. The "screw chek'r" brand plates have many sizes that are missing from your suggested thread checker, but they only work for bolts, not nuts. I have yet to find a screw size checking system that works for all the common sizes of screws, let alone the less common sizes. I learned this very quickly when I tried sorting the screws I had. I found I had a lot of 12-24 screws, and a lot of screws I have not been able to identify yet.
Thanks for the comment. Agree with so many different sizes that finding a universal check tool is a challenge. I rarely work with machine screws so I hadn't noticed.
Thanks. Knew most of this but found I still learned some things.
Great to hear!
In my shop I have spare oil drain plugs for my vehicles. BUT, what size be they? I took 1 of each of the 4 different sized to ACE
and found a nut for each one, took them all home to my shop & put the nuts in my parts cabinet in the same drawer as the plugs
for quick reference.
!
I'm delayed in getting back to some comments. Great idea! Appreciate you sharing that. Cheers!
When would someone use a coarse-threaded bolt instead of a fine-threaded bolt?
Great question. I'll let the engineers watching give hyper-detailed reasons, though I suspect it has something to do with the strength of the grip. Example, like you/me holding onto a bar with 3 really strong fingers versus holding on with 5-6 medium strength fingers....the holding force is more spread out to better. Curious to see others explain the micro detail!
Coarse-thread bolts are for common hardware applications. They are easier and faster than fine machine threads. For example when you are up on a ladder in the wind bolting together something like channel struts you want a thread for oversized holes that is easy to start by hand and can be rapidly driven tight. Fine thread machine bolts or screws are for precise component fitting where you are in a situation needing fussy fitting.
A good and useful explanation as to how to identify a bolt or nut size and type. HOWEVER, you omitted two more important factors in identifying a thread type, and those are the Thread ANGLE and Thread FORM. Each thread series has its own angles and shapes eg: BSW and BSF are both 55 degrees, BA is 47 degrees, UNC, UNF, UNEF and METRIC are all 60 degrees. Then there is the tread form such as V, Acme, Square, Round, Buttress and MULTI START.
There is a lot more to threads than you have explained, but it is a good start.
Thanks for the great comment. Yes, definitely more to the "thread" story in some situations, but intentionally stopped short of that trying to help the average person understand the basics/typical norm. Been some fun comments from people about the unique threads they've come across.
One unique thread I've encountered, to aid with joint locking, is Spiral Lock threads on nuts. Interesting concept. Have you ever encountered those? Cheers!
not to mention those dreaded Whitworth threads
@moss8448 some others have mentioned that, but I haven't yet experienced them. I have been meaning to look them up in my Machinery Handbook, but haven't had the chance yet.
@@LearnedFromDad ran across those deals when I had British Sports cars; Triumphs & MGs.
There are measurement tools, just like those for thickness.
They are with different thread sizes on them.
Just compare. Easier and faster.
You have only to know/measure, the size of the bolt..
I'm interested, can you share a link? Always looking for new tools 😂
Hello, thanks for such a good video. I wonder if you happens to know what standards follow the Korean cars? I have a Daewo-Pontiac Spark butmost of its fasteners just have a big number maked on their head 7, 10 , 6 etc only the ones in the knuckle to strut fasteners are marked by diagonal dashes according to SAE, they are al milimetric. Best regards
You and some others asked this same question. My Kubota lawn more has the same. I FINALLY figured out what they are and was excited about it so made you all another video on that exact topic. They are a specific vintage of Japanese Industrial Standard bolt and the number is a strength class. Enjoy this video!
th-cam.com/video/fDhsn6kLmVE/w-d-xo.html
This was great and you have a new Subscriber. I have seen similar thread checkers at a much higher price so I immediately ordered from your link. Thanks a lot
I'm glad you enjoyed the video. So much more to come, stop back soon! Cheers.
Here's something weird for you: the rear axle on my 1991 Trek 820 mountain bike is 10mm in diameter, but the thread pitch is 26 threads per inch! So, that's two different measurement systems used in a single part. I found this out the hard way when I was replacing worn bearing cones. Two sizes of cones were available: M10 with 1mm threads, and M10 with 26 tpi. I assumed that it was the former (why would anyone mix metric and English standards in the same part?). The two thread sizes are close enough that the thin lock nut that gets wedged against the bearing cone would thread onto the axle even though the nut was a 1mm thread and the axle is 26 tpi. However, the bearing cone is longer, and the error accumulates, and the cone with 1mm threads won't work on the 26 tpi axle. Why anyone would design the axle that way is beyond me.
@@johnkangas7350 There is no such thing as an M10 with 26 tpi and to think that the two sizes are close enough is not a clever thing to hope for . It probably is 3/8” BSC . It’s this close enough that could hypothetically be deadly .
@@vankuipland I probably wouldn’t have believed it either if I hadn’t experienced it firsthand. Here is the URL for the bearing cone I bought for my bike (Wheels Manufacturing part number CN-R085):
wheelsmfg.com/products/hub-parts/all-cones/cn-r085.html
The description clearly states “Compatible with 10mm x 26 axle”.
QED
I was not “hoping” that the two thread sizes were close to each other, I was just observing that they are. A 1mm thread pitch is equivalent to 25.4 tpi, which is close to 26 tpi. A thin M10 x 1 nut DOES thread onto my axle. I never suggested that anyone actually use a M10 x 1 nut in this application.
@@vankuipland I probably wouldn’t have believed it either if I hadn’t experienced it firsthand. The bearing cone I bought for my bike is Wheels Manufacturing part number CN-R085. Just Google that phrase, and you'll find it. The description of the part clearly states “Compatible with 10mm x 26 axle”.
QED
I was not “hoping” that the two thread sizes were close to each other, I was just observing that they are. A 1mm thread pitch is equivalent to 25.4 tpi, which is close to 26 tpi. A thin M10 x 1 nut DOES thread onto my axle. I never suggested that anyone actually use a M10 x 1 nut in this application.
Woah, that's a unique situation! Fellow bike enthusiast here as well. Thanks for sharing that!! Cheers!
Without caliper I just imprint the thread on a piece of paper and then check the indents on flat paper with a simple ruler over as many threads as possible. Same applies to circling a bolt with paper for getting the diameter. It's like using a 3.14 magnifier lens. It's good enough for any standard bolts even to distuingish imperial and metric with a look-up table.
It works well on fine threads like on cameras and camera lenses/filters.
That is a neat technique. Thanks for sharing!
super handy, sounds like something the professor would do on Gilligan's Island
@@bruce-le-smithhaha, agree! And, I'm definitely old enough to understand the TV show reference. 😆
Years ago we had a few machines made in England before WW2. Bolts would not match up with SAE or metric bolts. Old time mechanic told us they called them bastard threads. At one time England had their own sizes & threads. Back in the 1990's while working at a newspaper engineers at Goss presses decided to change over presses made & sold in the USA to be made with metric hardware. Had thousands of bolts on the printing presses. Some metric, some SAE. Reminded me of the 1984 Ford LTD that I owned. Started to replace the alternator and first bolt that I throw a socket on was metric. Okay. Put my SAE sockets & combination wrenches away and bought out my metric. Of course second alternator bolt was SAE.
I've been enjoying reading comments about all the random thread types, sizes from people. It's been a fun learning experience for me....exposure to new things. And, I chuckled at the Ford LTD comment, classic. I was a Chevy and Buick guy myself.
You have a dear old chap called Whitworth for standardizing bolt and nut threads. Not so much size or thread form but being able to interchange like threads with other like threads, not hand made nuts and bolts which required 'fitting' to each other individually, blame him as an arms manufacturer requiring accuracy throughout his machines
you know whats fun. working at a hardware store for 4 years and just looking at a bolt or nut and telling the customer what it is.
Not only that but being able to look at a bolt or nut from several feet away and know what it is will save you a lot of time over the course of a career.
Yep, Been There and Done That! 🙃
Throw in some odd pitch .
I bet you had some interesting customer encounters. My hope for these basic videos was to help those average folks to come in with (maybe) slightly more knowledgeable to help themselves at least ask somewhat educated questions.
Do nuts have a way to tell if standard or metric?
There is, but much less consistent and more difficult to discern. Sometimes you'll see lines or dots on the nut. The Fastnal document I referenced had some notes on it.
I have an adjustable wrench with a built in scale to determine bolt head size. Great tool!
Always interesting to hear what people's favorite tool(s) are. I love tools, never have enough! Thanks for watching!
I'm a little confused as to which measurement is used to determine the size of a bolt. Is it the diameter, the thread count per inch (the distance between threads), or the length of the bolt?
I'm glad you asked. I should have visualized some text on screen to better clarify. I'll give an example of an imperial/inch bolt, but metric is similar.
You walk into a store and see a bin labeled 1/2"-13x3", for example. The 1/2" is the bolt diameter, and is the value communicated when someone is talking about the 'size' (diameter) of a bolt. Then, a good co-worker will next ask "well, 1/2" diameter, but what threads per inch, and overall length, do you need?".
Now, while 'size' is referencing the diameter, I'll say in the mechanical world it's most common to alway reference the diameter and threads together when communicating, because those two elements really work together. So, you might say "I need a 1/4"-20 bolt" or "I need an M12-1.25 bolt".......from there you just need to clarify the length needed.
Hope that helps!
@@LearnedFromDad Ok, I understand now. Thank you for the clarification.
Great video, very informative
@michaellacaria910 thanks! Glad you enjoyed!
Excellent video! New subscriber.
Thanks and welcome!
Nice video I’ve never seen those thread checker sets before, I always used a thread gauge Here is a little tip to go with metric bolts, do you know how to determine the bolt head/ spanner size for a given bolt diameter?
Bolt diameter x 1.5 +1. ( up-to 14mm iirc after that just it’s just x1.5)
8mm bolt x 1.5 = 12 +1 = 13., 13mm spanner
That's an awesome tip! I was not aware. And, you call them spanners instead of wrenches....where do you call home? I remember the first time I was in South Africa teaching, asked for a wrench, and they brought me a ratchet. Thought they were teasing me, until they figured out I was asking for a spanner.....then we all had a good laugh 😂
I live in the UK .Yes we call them spanners.
Glad you found the tip useful.
Great channel, keep up the good work and all the best to you and your family from the UK.
Great video. I'm In Australia. We still have plenty of machinery and vehicles that use SAE and AF. I was brought up by a marine engineer who could just look at a bolt and say what it was. He had spanners and socket sets for everything. I love metric but I still have SAE and metric spanners and socket sets because I still encounter so much SAE stuff. Perhaps you or @MrChrissy1r could explain the various types of threads, as in AF, Whitworth, BSP, machine thread. I can't rememberthem all. I if I get stuck, I do what you suggest and take a sample to the store so that they can use their testing kits.
I'm glad you enjoyed. In my lifetime I definitely expect to alway have both metric and inch tools, just so much of both (though I've seen a big change in the US toward metric hardware).
Regarding other threads, good suggestion. I was just looking in my Machinery Handbook tonight, learning more about some of the alternative threads I haven't experienced, such as Whitworth. I'll take that down as a consideration. Cheers!
James this is excellent , I love hardware , I have several boxes of screws ,bolts, nuts etc. There are, as you pointed out is quite involved . Thread pitch , left hand thread , grade and on and on. I have a set like this on Amazon. So one day I got my checker box out and to my surprise , I have some and nuts and bolts that didn't work on any of my checkers! I determined that since I collected these from I don't know where, that came off of an alien spacecraft and I put them in the recycle. One shade tree trick is to take a bolt that you think is metric and try a standard nut , it will thread a couple of turns and stop ., that bolt is more than likely going to be metric. That is to say that bolt and nut threads are good and buggered up! One thing you didn't cover , was left hand thread ,but I figure that most home owners are not to run into very often.
Thanks for commenting on this video as well, and sharing your experiences. I did the same with my giant bucket of bolts, sat and checked them all one day to organize into bins. I didn't come across any unique, but several comments have been made about some very unique hardware experiences. And absolutely, left thread, I'll definitely touch on that in another video as even a home owner or farmer will encounter such occasional, such as in a rotating part. Cheers!
@@LearnedFromDad
As a mechanic I run into odd fasteners frequently. I have found that metric standard is not standard everywhere. Apparently some countries use 7,9,11 and 15 mm sizes for random hardware. This really throws you when checking sizes. Most metrics also have 3 common thread pitches.
Also should mention that JIS metric standard has been used in most automobile manufacturing for 30 years but is almost unavailable in the hardware distribution systems in the USA. I have to special order almost every common size replacement bolts. Most common USA metric fasteners have oversized head and nut compared to factory parts and usually won't fit in recessed machined parts. I don't see this in fasteners on anything imported from the rest of the world.
Biggest irony is SAE standard fasteners are FAR less expensive than any metric fasteners but the majority are made in China, not the US!
Maaan, that "chain" thread checker is a very cool tool. I don't need it, but I definitely want one. 😅😅
Yeah, I love those checkers. Not really something I "needed" but I bought a big lot of random hardware at an auction and wanted to sort....sooooo, excuse to buy a set! Take care!
Bought a set of "thread detectives" many yrs ago. Still use on a regular basis. Great advice to buy a set.
Agree, been a great addition!
Can the thread checker at the end be inserted into a threaded hole?
Sure can, you just need to rotate the full checker to spin the individual checker into the hole. Or, size a bolt and use that to check the hole.
Outstanding! Thanks!
Glad you liked it!
Bought a cheap thread gauge set on Amazon. Wilteexs 26pcs
Very helpful, aren't they!?
@@LearnedFromDad definitely. I have no shortage of random bolts or empty bolt holes that need bolts.
Good stuff!
Thanks!
As a fellow content creator(although I' gave up during Adpocolypse 1.0, when I was demonetized due to being too small a channel, and as I'd hoped to create a secondary income stream from videoing what I was already doing, I'd literally only made $27 in 2yrs, and never even cashed it out);
I'd like to suggest some diversification of you content. Not saying all the thread/bolt content isn't interesting, but it's a rather niche market. Based on the channel name, I'd suggest mixing in topics such as "changing a tire", "changing the oil", "checking a level for accuracy", ect.
Thanks for the comment! And, absolutely, tons of topics like those you suggested to come. I started the channel and then took my kids on vacation, so had a brief pause, but getting back to it and having fun.
@@LearnedFromDad it is a good point to not "pigeon hole" yourself when it comes to content, it never hurts to branch out and dont worry if those videos dont get the same engagement. Its better to try something new than to become the oil change guy or the guy who only does fun facts. However, niches also exist for a reason, and they still do thrive. The internet is a lovely place in that regard in general. Whatever you want to do or however you want to take the channel is up to you, of course. I would say, in my opinion if you were focused on growing the channel, maybe videos in a similar style to the well performing ones might continue to do well. Branching out never hurts either though, so the best thing is to just keep posting and do it as consistent as possible. i think you have a very incredible start with the engagement youve gotten over 9 videos posted relatively close together. If you want this to become a career, I believe its an option
@paladinkhan I really appreciate your comment. As I keep telling my kids, it's important that I/we are having fun with it.....and we are. I love to educate, and learn, and building this channel is providing both those things for me. So much more learning to come, for all!!
You also have the grip. The grip is the amount of thread.
You also have the style of bolt, carriage, cap screw etc.
Then there is the coating. You have black, zinc electroplated and hot dipped galvanized. Those are the major ones at the big box stores. For corrosion, cadmium-plated is the best but it is not environmentally friendly and very expensive. Toyota was known for their cadmium-plated bolts. The coating on a zinc electro plated bolt is too thin for outdoor use and they will rust. The hot dipped galvanized bolts are intended for outdoor use. Hot dipped nuts are overtapped after galvanizing to allow extra room for the zinc coating on the bolt. This means the threads on the nuts are uncoated and subject to rust unless in contact with the bolt; do not leave the unprotected nuts outdoors, the threads will rust. Normally, you cannot fit an electroplated nut on a hot dipped bolt. Conversely, placing a hot dipped nut on an electroplated or black bolt will result in a nut with too much slop.
Or just use stainless steel bolts and nuts
@@steveC2 Now you’ve done it and opened up the other can of worms I was trying to avoid. Stainless comes in two forms essentially rusting and non-rusting; Austenitic, Ferritic, and Martensitic. You will have to figure it out. Some stainless steels will have intergranulal corrosion issues. Heard a story of stainless steel step bolts being used on a crossing tower in the salt water. After a few years the linemen went out to the tower and the step bolts snapped off when they stepped on them. This rusting is why my knives and Nectgrill rusted and your stainless frig rusts. Bad stainless.
Use brass bolts, they are much weaker but don’t rust.
This is an awesome comment. I love engaging with people like you. Definitely was keeping the video average person simple, but love these kind of comments.
What kind if engineering work do you perform? Thanks for watching!
Love this!
@@LearnedFromDadI am a retired civil/structural engineer from the electric power industry. My specialty was foundations that use some of the largest custom made bolts you will find. My endeavors included managing the civil materials for the 350 substations in the system. This included the nuts and bolts. The nuts and bolts were bid out to bolt manufactures and delivered by the truckload. Next time you look at a transmission tower, remember that each angle member is held in by nuts and bolts, a lot of nuts and bolts. Each bolt has to be right for the load and bolt length. You don’t want metric bolts in your A394 tower bolts. I had to resolve the field complaints when the nuts did not thread on the bolts and get the manufacture to replace the out of spec delivery.
Most structural designs are limited by the fastener, the nut and bolt. Know your nuts and bolts and you make your job easy. Learn how to find the right type of nut for the bolt. It is all in the ASTM specifications.
SAE= Society of automotive engineers.
Thanks for calling that out, I didn't think to specify in the video....so accustomed to using the acronym.
judging by the lack of Common-Sense that seems to be prevalent with Engineers; are we sure it's not the Society of A**hole Engineers? lol
Standardized annotations of engineering.. sizes are explained.. or shitting and eating..
Have you got a M6 X 1.25 on that row of gauges? Even some traders of taps and dies have told me that that size doesn't exist, only M6 X 1.0 is what they have.
From my research, they are wrong though, it's rare and costs more but a 1.25 can be bought online.
What's that for? An old Campagnolo derailleur?
@@dadgarage7966 I gather some Japanese motorcycles use that size, I've found it on a bearing puller tool but that part were broken so I managed to work my way around it by making another part on my lathe and using an adapter basically.
M3-0.5 is the smallest my gauges go to. Interesting how there is always something unique to find/learn, just when you think you've seen it all!
@@LearnedFromDad M6 is larger than M3 so you would have one on that set but I bet that the pitch is 1.0.
Like with an M10, there's a 1.0 and a 1.25 pitch, my tap and die set actually contains both of these.
I don't get why the M6 1.25 is so rare??
@steveclark.. so, that will teach me to look at small details way too late at night.....for some reason when I went to my garage I was thinking your comment was regarding an M2 bolt😂
Just rechecked my set, it only has M6-1.0
Interesting but alas, doesn't solve my problem. I've got an old Jacobs drill chuck with a threaded male shaft machined on it. I can't find information about this type. (It was salvaged from an old Made in France B&D power drill from the 70's and I would like to use it for a jig but I have no idea what the thread is and I would rather not epoxy it in place.)
Shaft length is 11 mm, OD shows 0.367" (9.32 mm) but I have nothing to mesure the pitch accurately and having being raised in metric world, you'll understand your thread charts are a mess to me.
The only markings are 1/16 ------ 1/2 (1,5 ------ 13 mm Multi-craft chuck Sheffield England U8304.
If anyone knows anything about it... Thanks in advance.
ty
My favorite is when someone brings me a bolt and I know it’s m8 x 30 just by looking at it
Isn't it funny the unique things a person can pinpoint with enough exposure!
Okay for your stuff, but there are other threads including the very common Whitworth.
You bet, and definitely understand. Being in the US, for the industries and things I've worked on, I haven't (yet) run into Whitworth. Is there any particular equipment, place, other where that thread type is commonly used? I was looking in my Machinery Handbook a few days ago, reading about that thread type as others have also mentioned it. Thanks for watching, take good care!
Are aviation hardware bolts/nuts SAE, metric, or something else?
That is a great question. I haven't worked in aviation, so I'm equally curious to learn that....hopefully someone will respond to your question!
@@LearnedFromDadMostly Unified threads. Some European aircraft are metric (Panavia, Eurofighter etc.)
Aviation in U.S. inch sizes has its own peculiar "AN' (Army-Navy) system. They are designated in eighths of an inch. For example an "AN-2" bolt is two-eights of an inch -- or 1/4 inch. AN bolts are very expensive.
If the fastener is all threaded it's a screw, for it to be a bolt it has to have an unthreaded section
Great comment. Hadn't gone down that detail path yet. Cheers!
unless it's a stud!
@@iggyppup then it wouldn't have a hex head
What is not mentioned is the difference between bolts and set screws. A bolt is one where the threaded section is around 1"/25mm long and the rest of the bolt has a plain shank as your long bolts. A set screw is where the bolt is threaded all the way to the underside of the bolt head. This is vitally important because if you a clamping something down you do not want to run out of thread before you achieve the correct clamping pressure. Also, you don't want a bolt that is fully threaded where there could be fretting or where a part needs to rotate on the plain shank.
Great comment, thanks for sharing!!
Its very odd hearing this information without the yelling part.
Haha, well, I'm glad it was a more peaceful experience 😀
Thanks for watching!
In Britain we have at least 3 more to worry about , Whitworth, BA (British association0 and BSP (British standard pipe so thread checkers are essential. I bought a Myford lathe, as a project, mine was made in 1864? So Bsf , whit and BA then One clamp (original fit) 6mm ? and parts list says 6mm. BUT over time owners must have used whatever on hand for repairs and modifications. I was stumped over 2 bolts to find there was a MODEL MAKERS range of sizes. If you want complication I worked repairing US army equipment in Germany their moto jam any bolt in.
I've stumbled upon a little bit of British Pipe Thread with hydraulics on European design/manufactured equipment. The lathe sounds fun and fascinating.
The pitch of M6 is the same as O BA it is only the thread angle that is different. You often find M6 used by a numpty that doesn’t know about BA
JAMES ??? , what the...
Then where in the hell is Dad ?😳?
... 911 😂 🖖
Haha, right here, right here! Though, I was thinking, my dad needs to join a video. He's smart, life experienced, and sometimes ornery!
@@LearnedFromDad
Always Fun 🤗
Gotta mess with the little ones now and then, to keep them in line. Because you can only swing a Cane So Far,.. metric, or SAE 😏
Just an old aerospace guy.
And I think I probably have all my keychain thread gauges from the old days. And hole gauges.
And,.. TAPER LOCKS 😳 wtf 🤣
Knowledge not Shared, is Knowledge Wasted 🖖
Amen to "knowledge not shared"! Aerospace and aviation have always fascinated me, just haven't bounced thought that industry....yet😁. Pleased to be out of cane's reach!! Thanks for enjoying and sharing!
Technically speaking a SCREW has threads all the way to the head; a BOLT has an unthreaded shank near the head. Bolts are stronger since the root of the thread is the weakest part. SAE Grade 8 is strongest, Grade 5 is pretty std in the auto industry. In American standards, there are coarse threads (UNC), fine threads (UNF) and extra find threads (UNEF). The finer thread bolts have a larger minimum "root" diameter and are correspondingly stronger but they can't be torqued as much.
Great comment. I hadn't gone down that detail path yet. Appreciate you sharing! Take good care.
Have purchased hex headed cap boots with threads entire length. On the fifth wheel of tractor trailers they used a SAE above 10 or 11. If I was hanging heavy things from a concrete ceiling would use SAE grade 5..
The "Magic Number" to convert Metric to Imperial (inches) and back is 25.4 - divided or multiplied by, using a calculator. I'm an Engineering Inspector (Retired) so measuring is what kept a roof over our heads. 📏🔩🕵
That's a great comment. I'll write that down on my wrench holders. Thanks!
Diameter of bolt + half that= wrench size. Heavy nut + one eighth ".
Great comment! Thanks for sharing. Cheers!
I liked the video but the real problem with bolts are the hundreds of metric bolts that come with almost anything you get from China and they even have hex heads. How do we know the size of these 1/4 inch or smaller that comes with the kits like from IKEA~? Some of the heads are round, some are flat and some are countersunk. Thanks for the Info~!!
my say smart thing, just dont be offended: metric Is standard ))) (in most parts of the world)
Thanks for watching and the comment. Yes, a hard lesson learned by me for not thinking globally about the term 'standard', that was my mistake and I appreciate all those who've corrected me. Funny story, I was talking to my own dad after posting this video....a tool & die maker of 30+ years......and I had to correct him that imperial/inch hardware is not called 'standard', as he was referring. He laughed and said, "I understand" 😀
And then you have Whitworth sizes! or am I just too old
Sorry for the delay. Age is just a number, that's what I say! I'm generally familiar with Whitworth threads, but have never physically been around them. I need to ask my tool & die maker dad if he's ever worked with them. Take good care!
'This has three dashes, so it's a Grade 5.' They don't make it easy, do they?
Clear as mud, huh? I'm a hyper curious person, so things like this I'm always wondering the reason behind....because there definitely is one! Cheers!
Heads Up Here SAE has nothing to do with nut and bolt sizes. The standard that once covered thread dimensions was called SAE J475. It has been replaced by ANSI B1.1 as of 1964. If you look in a SAE handbook you will see text telling you to use the ANSI data. There are no printed specs for screw threads in the SAE handbook.
Sorry for the delay in response, I'm behind. I appreciate that comment. I'm definitely one of those Americans who still is overly conditioned to use the slang terms of 'standard' and 'SAE'. Been trying to change that. Cheers!
Just use a thread gauge lol there are over 20+ differant thread sizes and thread pitches 😜😜😜😜
Understand, and isn't that volume of pitches/forms wild when you thinking about it!
When I made this video (one of my early/first ones) I didn't do a good job of considering total audience, including those with a lot of experience as well as global. I was thinking about people like my kids (who know nothing about hardware) so base lesson 1 so they could have an idea of how to measure a bolt that might be on some day to day item.
It would have been better suited to be a multi-part set of videos where I talked about the basics, then move on to more detail of different thread pitches, etc.
Always learning, even while sharing/educating, which is a passion of mine. Endlessly curious! 😁😁
The unthreaded portion of the bolt is called the grip.
I thought it was called the shank.
@@dadgarage7966 the shank is made up of the threaded portion, and the unthreaded portion, the unthreaded portion is called the grip.
Thanks for sharing, I saw someone else mention that as well. Cheers!
You mean "metric or wtf this shit is ancient"
-- a random European
Hahaha, yes, very much noted 😀
Metric. The brain dead system where you cannot divide by 3. An educated European and qualified engineer.
Good old USA…Standard vs Metric. The rest of the world uses metric so what really is standard?
Yes, busted for sure. My own dad, a tool/die maker for decades, and I were having a good laugh about this topic tonight when he referred to our 'standard' hardware. I corrected him (on behalf of everyone outside the USA) and clarified 'inch' hardware isn't allowed to be called standard anymore....he chuckled.
Metric bolts _ARE_ the standard bolts. All those inch bolts are used only in usa and nowhere else
Definitely agree that as an American, I made the mistake of loosely referring to 'standard'.....relative to inch hardware. I knew better, thanks for the comment.
It will likely take another three or four generations before imperial fasteners in the U.S./Canada fade away.
Non metric are used only in water pipes. Non metric should not exist in any other areas anyway
@@joshhhabwhat about BA size nuts and bolts because fun fact they are metric sized but not ISO? The non ISO metric sizes are not going anywhere fast because there is so much stuff using them in existence.
USA is best. Inches and Feet are best.
I only use metric, size , pitch is easy. No need for gauge etc.. SAE in the recycle bin.
Can you imagine a world where only a single hardware existed? If that ever existed, what would us guys (and gals) talk about?! Haha. Take care!
Metric IS standard.
Hahaha, yeah, I learned the very hard way I made a poor statement there 🤦♂️. Even talking to my dad, a 30yr tool & die maker, was referring to inch/imperial as 'standard'.....I corrected him.....he laughed.
if you are working in a trade by the age of 22 you cannot tell the difference between a metric and a sae grade bolt or nuts too you in the wrong trade
Haha, amen! The challenge I've seen over my life is fewer and fewer are ever exposed to these simple things anymore....so here we are, helping humanity learn!!
12.2mm dia will never be metric 12mm (metric bolts are ALWAYS under size because the od is 12mm but the threads are rounded at the tip)
Thanks for sharing, great comment.