I've seen it on XF Motorsports, he basically welded the hole on the plate completely and drilled a new hole in cnc machine. Its brilliant and cost nothing 👏
Saw hat myself and while is a much better option, you at taking some long term risks there. TIG it and you end with a high speed rotational mass of different properties, I can see the soldering eventually falling during a cold start, flying inside the crackshaft adjuster cover and breaking havoc. Just get replacement plates and pin. Got mine from 63 motorsports, in Canada and did with my indy mechanic here in Dallas, Texas.
There's one tiny problem you missed that was causing the issue in the first place. The pin flip doesn't solve the problem. If you'll notice the hole that the pin slides into has been worn down to about a 45°angle. That pin hole is supposed to be a sharp 90° hole. The only real solution is to replace the plate.
You didn't need a longer ratchet to undo the torx screws in the cam adjuster as when you first tried you was turning them clockwise instead of anticlockwise.
Great video but….. At 6:41 you can see that the hole the pin fits into has a ramp on one edge which is the real problem here. Flipping the pin end for end won’t solve the issue in the longer term since eventually that end of the pin will wear. What you need to do is replace that plate. The real issue is that the metal on that plate is soft and that’s why you see that ramp forming since over time the pin is eroding that edge. There are aftermarket plates available which are machined from harder steel which is the only long term solution.
Did you use your old bolts for the valvecap and the frontcover ? What is the torque for the black bolts - handfit and 90° ? Did you also used the old diamondplate and the old bolt for the adjuster ?
Looking for some advice. Took out cam adjusters on a 2010 c63. The two gears that you are supposed to lock in place were not aligned perfectly and therefore I could not get the pin in to lock both of them in place. I did manage to get a small bolt into the hole so that when I took the adjusters off, the gears stayed mostly aligned however they are about one gear tooth off from where they need to be to go back on properly. Is there any way to get the gears aligned? A buddy of mine says I would just pry one gear back into place using a flathead but that it takes a ton of force. I don’t want to mar up the gears and am worried about damaging them but also don’t want to have to replace them if they can be realigned properly. Any advice?
You need to be talking to a tech at merc who has insight on the CA's, churning on them to make the keyhole fit doesnt sound to good.. also why remove it if it doesnt add up? Have you even checked that your are correct on markings regarding dead center (no pressure on valves) Also dont flip the pin if your plate looked like this guys plate.. just waste of time and wont do you any good.
When you're turning it by hand you can see the adjuster you messed with is not locked (loud click followed by delayed rotation of cam)... The hole in the plate the pin drops into on your adjuster is toast my dude.
You are correct. And I wish I knew that before I put it back in my car! Lol. But I did resolve the issue. (CAMSHAFT ADJUSTER FAILED! What went wrong with pin flip trick. th-cam.com/video/N23oASFpfvM/w-d-xo.html) Thanks for your comment and checking out the channel! 👍🏽
Please do not just flip the pin around and call it fixed. The adjuster plate is clearly worn. The ramp on the adjuster plate @6:44 is not what it should look like. The reason your car ran fine after the “repair” is that the pin is worn as well but not to an extend as the plate. You will be doing this again soon and that time you will have to replace/repair the adjuster plate.
The ramp wear around the hole are what is causing the pin to lose its purpose, so agree this video is somewhat missleading. - The adjuster plate material are weaker than the pin material hence this issue... - Replace or repair the plate as Sven mentioned
The pin was good, the plate was bad... problem remains... typically, the pins show more wear and the flip helps, but the flip won't resolve the plate wear issue you see.
What I did was marked the bolts location on the adjuster. Then when I put them back in I started at those marks and tighten them until I lined up the marks. That worked for me. They were pretty tight by the time they were aligned. But yeah, there aren’t any official torque specs that I could find for the camshaft adjuster bolts.
DriveTalkCars yes i noticed that it well explained thanks , but what about the head cover and other thightening do you do it by feeling or you have some spécification Coming from « star software » excuse me for my english, and you are welcome for a drink when you pass through Audun-le-Tiche ;)
Oh I see, yeah the camshaft adjuster cover to cylinder head bolts are torqued to 10 Nm. And the valve covers are tightened to feel. Over torquing them could crack the plastic cover (if you have plastic cover). The bolt for the engine harness ground to cam adjuster cover is 9 Nm. I hope that helps. 👍🏽
@@DriveTalkCars There is a video someone did, which I can't find now, where they didn't torque down the cam adjuster bolts properly after they were put back in so they became loose. Anyway, Tasos actually commented the torque specs for those bolts in that video. I believe it was 20 Nm but I will have to find it to confirm.
Hi.....crank poly at 40* ....lock camshaft with tool at back and front ...lock cam adjuster by toothed tool ...now inserting adjuster into camshaft at this point is there any mark to positioning the adjuster or any way go only set the sensor plate in right position by front red tool and tighting the bolt ? thanks for share
Is there a mileage time frame we're these start to fail? I'm looking at buying a c63 amg 2014 507 series and don't want to deal with this within the first year....
Um…I heard of them failing at 40k miles so I would say no there isn’t a mileage time frame. However, I would anticipate them definitely starting to go bad or show signs of failing around 90-100k +.
Don't take a blid shoot, just make the swap of the can parts adjuster and the head bolts pretty much cost something now, however, U will save a lot o money in the future
@@KangarooRide Well, that is partially good advice... The problem is that the OEM cam adjusters have exactly the same metallurgy, so you will deal with the problem 40 or 50k later. My advice, rebuild the camshaft with 63 motorsports updated plates or similar alternatives available. Is even better that pay mercdew benz for substandard parts. I also recall that VRP speed offer and updated version of the whole camshaft adjuster, but that is overkill unless you have additional problems.
No, you don’t have to number them. I just did it for diagnostic purposes and I like to return parts back to where they originally came from...🤷🏽♂️. They are interchangeable. 👍🏽 Thanks for the comment and checking out my channel!
Always should follow the torque specs, but your video ia fucking amazing, seirous that is the most commum issue in m156, and looks like isn't so hard to avoid 5 grands spend in mechanic. Great video, fuck loved
The plate IS fucked! Flipping the pin saves you jack if the locking hole FOR the pin looks like the damn french alps sweet and all at 43°... keyhole supposed to be a squared up hole. This flipping of pin without knowledge on how the plate is supposed to look like is just pure waste of time.
Yeah...I know. I actually intended to, but in rushing to fix my car I unfortunately forgot to change bolt and washer. Good news, I have the parts and plan on fixing it.
As I continued watching the video more and more mistakes are seen. @8:42 “little movement but not much”. You don’t want any movement. Your marks on the bolts for torque reference would somewhat work if you put the bolt back where there came out of. The bolts and the threaded holes don’t have the tread start. You could have at least use the torque used for that size of a bolt at that grade. And @18:02 your flipped pin popped out the adjuster plate. Overall good videos. But the content is misleading and could cause others, who might do the same by following your instruction to destroy their engine.
That wear on the adjuster plate is NOT normal. That plate is wearing down due to the softness of the steel plate. Flipping that pin will do nothing to solve your problem. You need new parts, especially that adjuster plate. You will be back in there again doing the right thing later, trust me.
rotate the engine manually using a torque wrench after you have replaced and torqued the new cam adjusters. If you rotate it a couple times and line it back up to the 40 degree mark you should be able to put the lock plates on both banks and it should still line up again. If it doesn't, or if you feel a lot of resistance when turning it by hand, that means the timing is probably off
DO NOT FLIP. BAD IDEA. JUST REPLACE I have a 2006 C280 with a M272 engine that has this problem on the left side (driver) cylinder head. The previous owner neglected the car by NOT changing the oil frequently. These multi cam/ flex cam engines need clean oil and correct quantity of oil or they fail in many ways.
Lol...it isn’t too bad. The biggest thing is overcoming the fear of royally screwing up you car. 😬 after that smooth sailing. Just take your time and it will be ok
@@DriveTalkCars that's my concern. The car is old and the plastics stuffs under the hood is aged and became brittle. Yet they are still tightly hold together. I just don't want to accidentally rip anything apart.
LOL... @4:01 "Need a longer ratchet" - All your viewers aren't stupid. The video clearly shows that when you were using the small ratchet to try to loosen the bolt, you were trying to turn it in the wrong direction!!
@@DriveTalkCars :) LOL... no problem. You still have a great channel, and it's a good video, regardless. I didn't see any other comments like mine, so people must not notice it anyway. - I have 08 ML63 AMG with the M156. Had to pull the intake to replace the crankcase vent and clean the intake. Beast of a job, but thanks to guys like you, I got it done!! Cam adjusters are down the road, so I appreciate the content you put together. - Peace.
Be serious man, you should rename this video to clearly indicate what not to do! This trick only save you money if your only goal is to pass the problem to the next unsuspected owner of the car, I don't think you want to get that reputation. The way to fix this cheapear but safer, is to get replacement plates and pins. I did my CL63 2008 a little while ago using parts from 63 motorsports, a Canadian company. Cannot be happier.
I've seen it on XF Motorsports, he basically welded the hole on the plate completely and drilled a new hole in cnc machine. Its brilliant and cost nothing 👏
Thanks for the suggestion!
Saw hat myself and while is a much better option, you at taking some long term risks there. TIG it and you end with a high speed rotational mass of different properties, I can see the soldering eventually falling during a cold start, flying inside the crackshaft adjuster cover and breaking havoc. Just get replacement plates and pin. Got mine from 63 motorsports, in Canada and did with my indy mechanic here in Dallas, Texas.
There's one tiny problem you missed that was causing the issue in the first place. The pin flip doesn't solve the problem. If you'll notice the hole that the pin slides into has been worn down to about a 45°angle. That pin hole is supposed to be a sharp 90° hole. The only real solution is to replace the plate.
You didn't need a longer ratchet to undo the torx screws in the cam adjuster as when you first tried you was turning them clockwise instead of anticlockwise.
Great video but….. At 6:41 you can see that the hole the pin fits into has a ramp on one edge which is the real problem here. Flipping the pin end for end won’t solve the issue in the longer term since eventually that end of the pin will wear. What you need to do is replace that plate. The real issue is that the metal on that plate is soft and that’s why you see that ramp forming since over time the pin is eroding that edge.
There are aftermarket plates available which are machined from harder steel which is the only long term solution.
Did you use your old bolts for the valvecap and the frontcover ?
What is the torque for the black bolts - handfit and 90° ?
Did you also used the old diamondplate and the old bolt for the adjuster ?
Looking for some advice. Took out cam adjusters on a 2010 c63. The two gears that you are supposed to lock in place were not aligned perfectly and therefore I could not get the pin in to lock both of them in place. I did manage to get a small bolt into the hole so that when I took the adjusters off, the gears stayed mostly aligned however they are about one gear tooth off from where they need to be to go back on properly. Is there any way to get the gears aligned? A buddy of mine says I would just pry one gear back into place using a flathead but that it takes a ton of force. I don’t want to mar up the gears and am worried about damaging them but also don’t want to have to replace them if they can be realigned properly. Any advice?
You need to be talking to a tech at merc who has insight on the CA's, churning on them to make the keyhole fit doesnt sound to good.. also why remove it if it doesnt add up?
Have you even checked that your are correct on markings regarding dead center (no pressure on valves)
Also dont flip the pin if your plate looked like this guys plate.. just waste of time and wont do you any good.
salut merci pour la video ! ou as tu acheté les pièces pour réparer ce soucis d ajusteur de came stp ? merci !!!
EXCELLENT video series! Gained a lot of useful information!
Great to hear! Thanks for leaving comment!
Dude this guys plate is so worn lol. He’s like it looks good ahahaha.
It has a ramp?
did you notice at 4:03 he was going the wrong direction for loosen also?
Came here to say this, that plate is ducked
When you're turning it by hand you can see the adjuster you messed with is not locked (loud click followed by delayed rotation of cam)... The hole in the plate the pin drops into on your adjuster is toast my dude.
You are correct. And I wish I knew that before I put it back in my car! Lol. But I did resolve the issue. (CAMSHAFT ADJUSTER FAILED! What went wrong with pin flip trick.
th-cam.com/video/N23oASFpfvM/w-d-xo.html)
Thanks for your comment and checking out the channel! 👍🏽
Please do not just flip the pin around and call it fixed. The adjuster plate is clearly worn. The ramp on the adjuster plate @6:44 is not what it should look like. The reason your car ran fine after the “repair” is that the pin is worn as well but not to an extend as the plate. You will be doing this again soon and that time you will have to replace/repair the adjuster plate.
Exactly my thoughts. Looks like he didn’t test the lock after reinstalling
The ramp wear around the hole are what is causing the pin to lose its purpose, so agree this video is somewhat missleading.
- The adjuster plate material are weaker than the pin material hence this issue...
- Replace or repair the plate as Sven mentioned
The pin was good, the plate was bad... problem remains... typically, the pins show more wear and the flip helps, but the flip won't resolve the plate wear issue you see.
Thanks a lot , please keep the vids up for this engine 👍🏻
Thanks for commenting and watching the channel. 🙏🏽
I have a similar issue but only happens when car is warm, or under load, going uphill. Could this be related ?
I think so!
Hey, i have one question , how did you deal with the torque when you Put back pieces? Can you précised them or There is no matter? Thanks
What I did was marked the bolts location on the adjuster. Then when I put them back in I started at those marks and tighten them until I lined up the marks. That worked for me. They were pretty tight by the time they were aligned. But yeah, there aren’t any official torque specs that I could find for the camshaft adjuster bolts.
DriveTalkCars yes i noticed that it well explained thanks , but what about the head cover and other thightening do you do it by feeling or you have some spécification Coming from « star software » excuse me for my english, and you are welcome for a drink when you pass through Audun-le-Tiche ;)
Oh I see, yeah the camshaft adjuster cover to cylinder head bolts are torqued to 10 Nm. And the valve covers are tightened to feel. Over torquing them could crack the plastic cover (if you have plastic cover). The bolt for the engine harness ground to cam adjuster cover is 9 Nm. I hope that helps. 👍🏽
Definitely will take that drink btw 🍻
@@DriveTalkCars There is a video someone did, which I can't find now, where they didn't torque down the cam adjuster bolts properly after they were put back in so they became loose. Anyway, Tasos actually commented the torque specs for those bolts in that video. I believe it was 20 Nm but I will have to find it to confirm.
Hi.....crank poly at 40* ....lock camshaft with tool at back and front ...lock cam adjuster by toothed tool ...now inserting adjuster into camshaft at this point is there any mark to positioning the adjuster or any way go only set the sensor plate in right position by front red tool and tighting the bolt ? thanks for share
I have only used the tool. I don’t think I would trust it without it. But there may be a way... thanks for commenting and checking out channel!
Is there a mileage time frame we're these start to fail? I'm looking at buying a c63 amg 2014 507 series and don't want to deal with this within the first year....
Um…I heard of them failing at 40k miles so I would say no there isn’t a mileage time frame. However, I would anticipate them definitely starting to go bad or show signs of failing around 90-100k +.
@@DriveTalkCars thank you. maybe lexus GS-F is the safe bet for me
Don't take a blid shoot, just make the swap of the can parts adjuster and the head bolts pretty much cost something now, however, U will save a lot o money in the future
@@KangarooRide Well, that is partially good advice... The problem is that the OEM cam adjusters have exactly the same metallurgy, so you will deal with the problem 40 or 50k later. My advice, rebuild the camshaft with 63 motorsports updated plates or similar alternatives available. Is even better that pay mercdew benz for substandard parts. I also recall that VRP speed offer and updated version of the whole camshaft adjuster, but that is overkill unless you have additional problems.
Did you forget the diamond washer ?
Great video mate!
do we need to number the coils ? or is it okay to put it straight away
No, you don’t have to number them. I just did it for diagnostic purposes and I like to return parts back to where they originally came from...🤷🏽♂️. They are interchangeable. 👍🏽
Thanks for the comment and checking out my channel!
lol.. leverage is your friend.. and finally turning the bolt in proper direction.. i.e. loosing it up!
No it doesn't look good at 6:59 It looks warn out.
Can you pls tell us the problem
Supposed to replace the cam bolt and the adjuster bolts. All of which are torque to yeild.
Yeah, I forgot and realized after I put car back together. I’m change parts out soon. Thanks for commenting!
Good stuff.
Thanks!
Great channel and excellent content!!
Thanks, I appreciate it
Plates are still worn and scorched. From the pin get New or rebuild it.
Always should follow the torque specs, but your video ia fucking amazing, seirous that is the most commum issue in m156, and looks like isn't so hard to avoid 5 grands spend in mechanic. Great video, fuck loved
Thanks for the comments and checking out my channel! 👍🏽
The plate IS fucked! Flipping the pin saves you jack if the locking hole FOR the pin looks like the damn french alps sweet and all at 43°... keyhole supposed to be a squared up hole. This flipping of pin without knowledge on how the plate is supposed to look like is just pure waste of time.
realy ? you use the bolts and the washers a second time ? dude
Yeah...I know. I actually intended to, but in rushing to fix my car I unfortunately forgot to change bolt and washer. Good news, I have the parts and plan on fixing it.
do you really worry about cover bolts ?? omg
As I continued watching the video more and more mistakes are seen. @8:42 “little movement but not much”. You don’t want any movement.
Your marks on the bolts for torque reference would somewhat work if you put the bolt back where there came out of. The bolts and the threaded holes don’t have the tread start. You could have at least use the torque used for that size of a bolt at that grade. And @18:02 your flipped pin popped out the adjuster plate.
Overall good videos. But the content is misleading and could cause others, who might do the same by following your instruction to destroy their engine.
Almost good video, but let down by the Plate, which needs replacing.
Thanks for feedback
That wear on the adjuster plate is NOT normal. That plate is wearing down due to the softness of the steel plate. Flipping that pin will do nothing to solve your problem. You need new parts, especially that adjuster plate. You will be back in there again doing the right thing later, trust me.
You are absolutely correct! I was back in there changing out the whole cam adjuster 😬 th-cam.com/video/N23oASFpfvM/w-d-xo.html
@@DriveTalkCars You should change or pull the video as you will be misleading people and making folks think the part wear is OK.
Thanks for the advice. I took that portion out.
Here is my video: M156 head bolt replacement DIY th-cam.com/video/zJO1qNnhxw4/w-d-xo.html
How do i know i didnt fuck up the timing?
Well as far as the cam adjusters go, the tool used is to ensure the timing is correct.
rotate the engine manually using a torque wrench after you have replaced and torqued the new cam adjusters. If you rotate it a couple times and line it back up to the 40 degree mark you should be able to put the lock plates on both banks and it should still line up again. If it doesn't, or if you feel a lot of resistance when turning it by hand, that means the timing is probably off
Nice video but that plate is worn as hell
DO NOT FLIP. BAD IDEA. JUST REPLACE
I have a 2006 C280 with a M272 engine that has this problem on the left side (driver) cylinder head. The previous owner neglected the car by NOT changing the oil frequently. These multi cam/ flex cam engines need clean oil and correct quantity of oil or they fail in many ways.
Replace would have saved me time and extra work(Lol) or a new back plate.
You world tour Need a longer rached of you Open the Bolds and not close it ....
Would you do it for me 😭
Lol...it isn’t too bad. The biggest thing is overcoming the fear of royally screwing up you car. 😬 after that smooth sailing. Just take your time and it will be ok
@@DriveTalkCars that's my concern. The car is old and the plastics stuffs under the hood is aged and became brittle. Yet they are still tightly hold together. I just don't want to accidentally rip anything apart.
I completely understand
LOL... @4:01 "Need a longer ratchet" - All your viewers aren't stupid. The video clearly shows that when you were using the small ratchet to try to loosen the bolt, you were trying to turn it in the wrong direction!!
Good observation… Never intentionally showed going wrong way to emphasize the use of a longer ratchet. Guess just used wrong clip when editing 🤷🏽♂️😬
@@DriveTalkCars :) LOL... no problem. You still have a great channel, and it's a good video, regardless. I didn't see any other comments like mine, so people must not notice it anyway. - I have 08 ML63 AMG with the M156. Had to pull the intake to replace the crankcase vent and clean the intake. Beast of a job, but thanks to guys like you, I got it done!! Cam adjusters are down the road, so I appreciate the content you put together. - Peace.
Pini flip not going to help you as you clearly can see you plate completely worn out get new plate or adjuster
Thanks for the feedback
Be serious man, you should rename this video to clearly indicate what not to do! This trick only save you money if your only goal is to pass the problem to the next unsuspected owner of the car, I don't think you want to get that reputation. The way to fix this cheapear but safer, is to get replacement plates and pins. I did my CL63 2008 a little while ago using parts from 63 motorsports, a Canadian company. Cannot be happier.