I removed the intake and did it manually a couple of years ago, I tried this method but I think it might require a second and or third application. On turbo cars it's not often easy to find where to apply; I made a 2mm "service hole" in the charge pipe and found a grommet that fits and seals with a bit of silicone to plug the hole, not ideal... 2016 BMW f20
I have to agree with you on needing a 2nd or 3rd run if there's no disassembly. I just repeated this and this time, I got footage of the intake valves. Should share the video soon.
Yes...Catalytic converters either have honeycombs that could be cleaned..or they have collapsed internal.. replacement with inspection boroscope review...Its the difference between Designers and Mechanics...We have to fix their mistakes and they have liabilities and waivers/ Big money to cover..Valves are easy to clean...But a whole intake is challenging without removal...I live in Central Arizona/No Smog Req. here...Time is on my side..What if anyone lives in Major City/ Smog Pay Off?/ DIY is great..but to know how to bend the rules when needed......
Wow this was an excellent analysis! Just the evidence and explanation made me feel like I was a mechanic, even though I had no clue what you where talking about 😂 Great video 👍
Excellent review and test. I have a 2016 Honda Accord 6-speed manual that I have never done a carbon cleaning on before (95,000 miles). I was very concerned about destroying the Cat using this product. It seems that your Cat was fine afterwards and will continue to clean itself over time. I'll have to consider this in the near future. Thank you very much for your video.
@@DIYAutoworksNG I had read people saying it had no affect on the cats but I pictured hunks of crap just sitting in there. Nice to have some visual evidence.
Hey man, great video and thanks for the visuals! I definitely noticed my exhaust having more soot after using the stuff and was worried about my cat, but this gives me piece of mind.
Great video! I watch Toyota Maintenance TH-cam show. He shows how he cleans Toyota air/fuel sensors with CRC Turbo cleaner spray. Man does it work! I will remove my 300K. Toyota Prius Cat. and clean it with CRC cleaner to make sure it is clean.
Perfectly safe YOU MUST FOLLOW the DIRECTIONS . For better outcome repeat again in 1000 miles . Now you have a difference . After that repeat every 15,000 miles .
@@DIYAutoworksNG Used once at 325,000 miles on my 1998 Lexus GS 400 . Then repeated again 2 times every 1000 miles apart . Changed the oil after . Car now has 356,000 runs perfect , more power , and no mis idle .Now repeat once every 15,000 miles . Please follow the directions exactly nothing different .
It would be interesting to see the before and after pictures of the intake valves for a cleaning like this too, mind you others have shown some of those comparisons already, but this was certainly super helpful, thanks!
Thanks for the compliment. Why not wait? The reason for the oil change afterwards is that because the fluid is so thin, some of it may leak past the piston rings and dilute the oil in the pan below.
Try the best combination...CRC for intake/throttle body cleaning..No one hour soak time..immediate drive time after.....but add Star Tron Enzyme Fuel treatment to fuel tank before and on regular basis..PEA/T.S. Alcohol/Naptha.....Have OBD 2 scanner on standby for codes...
Lol. For some reason, the no 1 hour soak cracked me up. Thanks for sharing. Not sure I'd attempt this approach since its contrary to the directions. Did you check before and after footage?
I am going to try this product on my 2019 ford ranger. Im nearing 30k miles. I just had my oil changed and filled up on 94 octane ultra premium along with a bottle of chevron fuel injection cleaner. I am going to run a can of the crc intake valve cleaner then do a drain and fill on my oil after 150 miles. Next oil change and filter I'll do in 3k miles. Think I'll try the spray right before the throttle body instead of letting it go into the intercooler.
@@DIYAutoworksNG with my experience rebuilding small engines, I typically go for head removal and manually cleaning valves and head along with valve lapping. I'd rather not go that route here just yet, maybe around 100k miles. I'll let ya know if there's any issues, but this is just about the next best thing. 👌
If your vehicle is a year 2000 regular fuel injection and not GDI, does this method work ? Or is it best to treat fuel system from fuel tank? There's a risk of hydrolocking engine? There's no water in CRC, how is it possible?
If your car is not GDI, then there's no need using this method. Getting the variant that can be added to the tank or any other fuel system cleaner that works will be good (you can checkout this in-tank cleaner review of gumout all in one th-cam.com/video/GRP0thS-xCA/w-d-xo.html). Hydrolocking applies to all fluids not just water. Fluids are not compressible, hence if you have a significant quantity in the combustion chamber, the engine will get damaged in the process of trying to compress the fluid.
So I just did a 99’ subaru legacy 200k and it ran amazing after. As long as you don’t do a continuous spray of the product i think its very difficult for hydrolocking as well I don’t do the rev part after or idling i just turn the car off and sit an hour and then rev it 3-4times drive 3-4ooorpm for 10mins.
@@DIYAutoworksNG It has good reviews everywhere. But until I get oil consumption under control, P0420 is still going to happen. I had the BG Engine Performance oil flush done a few weeks ago. Hoping its stuck oil rings. Only driven 200 or so but no drop so far. 🙏 I did the CRC again almost an hour ago until I can get the BG 3-step fuel induction done. Installed a catch can 6 weeks ago and it's working as far as I can see. But its not catching the 1/2 qt every 500-600 miles I was losing amd with no leaks, unless the oil stealing fairy comes at night, its obviously burning it.
I'm also wondering if these products are chemically safe for the catalysts. There were few chances that carbon would block the pores but catalyst poisoning, contamination or aging due to substances not supposed to be there is much more likely.
I know! Unfortunately, I don't have a way to test this. But given that the margin for error on the cat is quite slim, I'd expect codes after some driving if poisoning had occurred.
I had about 3 codes as well as you could see, plus misfiring. That all cleared during the spirited drive. If its misfiring, drive in low revs till it clears up, then you put pedal to the metal.
Hi. You can checkout the links in the description of any of the scanning videos. I always include them there. These are links I have verified and you can use them.
2006 subie sti . I/m readiness not complete. Cat and o2sensor left. Will try this. Im in ct. 5 clear , 2 or not. Need 6 out of 7 to pass emissions. Ct tax ripoff state don't move here.
@@DIYAutoworksNG i already replace both oxygen sensors, tried lacquer thinner and cataclean but after 3 days 0430 came on again. Today am gonna try soap and water. That is why i ask if diesel is safe to use to clean cat converter. My cat converter is 1yo.
@@DIYAutoworksNG after replacing both oxygen sensors. 1 gallon of lacquer thinner poured in gas tank and my gas was half full and the other 1 gallon i poured directly into the cat converter. After 3 days 0430 is back. Same procedure i did with cataclean and same results.
When a catalyst is bad there's no way around it, it won't auto-clean itself with anything, and at the end it'll damage your engine... when you've a failure on your emissions system, fumble with these sprays is dangerous, for you and your family carbon monoxide kills...
@@karlwalter2242 you do know that the honeycomb inside a catalytic converter is made of precious metals capable of endure extreme conditions. The only ways a catalytic converter can become unusable is, if the engine runs too rich for too long or if too much oil is entering the combustion chamber and if it takes a hit hard enough to compromise its integrity and functionality. They in fact can be cleaned, if it's done before it gets too clogged with hydrocarbons and or oils, in that event temperatures will rise high enough causing ignition of those chemicals destroying the honeycomb or melting it in the worst case scenario.
@@guuuu666 , Not to be mean but, i'm a licensed auto tech with over 30 years of experience, don't let those gimmicks fool you... It can cost you more than a car... that's how people have loss their lives trying to save money dying from carbon monoxide inhalation, again.. when you get an emissions code is either the O2 sensors, a bad coil or a bad catalyst, one depends from the other and there's no magic spray to fix this...
@@guuuu666 , As maintenance? taking them off, and cleaning them by putting them on a bucket with water and a lot of Dawn soap helps to try erase a code, if this don't work, they gotta go..... with the catalyst installed? don't waste your time and money...
@@karlwalter2242 it's 😎, I figured you didn't understand my original comment. I don't own a car with easy access to the catalytic converter like that Honda and I was just asking if he could run a test of that product to see if it works and how well. I know catalytic converters can be cleaned when removed, as the family hard core car enthusiast I've been doing it for a few years so they can save money for a part that can last for 20 something years if the engine is properly maintained.
Not that I've experienced, but in the odd scenario where there's flying carbon from cleaning, yea, could damage something. In my opinion though, it's mostly vaporised.
This video was more about catalytic converter blockage. For whether the product cleans intake valves, watch this other video th-cam.com/video/Czb6_xwkmYY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=IYnUviWbVsKrimU7
Thanks a lot for the feedback on the audio. Will see how to fix that. I did try to snake the borescope camera past the throttle body to the intake valves, but Honda's design of the intake manifold on this car made it impossible. Only option would have been to disassemble the intake manifold to get images of the valves. Wasn't ready to do that just yet. I totally understand your point though. Well said.
I wasn't fixing anything, no codes at all. This was just to clean intake valves and then document any deposits on the cat. As you know, so many say spray intake cleaners risk dislodging chunks of carbon, leading to clogging of the cat.
LMAO, cleaning your valves on a DI engine is near fucking mandatory every 10k. If you are suggesting people buy a new cat that often you are fucking insane. Also, how would that help clean his valves? Just how dumb are you?
Do you have a different opinion or experience with CRC intake valve cleaner? Let's chat.
I removed the intake and did it manually a couple of years ago, I tried this method but I think it might require a second and or third application. On turbo cars it's not often easy to find where to apply; I made a 2mm "service hole" in the charge pipe and found a grommet that fits and seals with a bit of silicone to plug the hole, not ideal...
2016 BMW f20
I have to agree with you on needing a 2nd or 3rd run if there's no disassembly. I just repeated this and this time, I got footage of the intake valves. Should share the video soon.
Yes...Catalytic converters either have honeycombs that could be cleaned..or they have collapsed internal.. replacement with inspection boroscope review...Its the difference between Designers and Mechanics...We have to fix their mistakes and they have liabilities and waivers/ Big money to cover..Valves are easy to clean...But a whole intake is challenging without removal...I live in Central Arizona/No Smog Req. here...Time is on my side..What if anyone lives in Major City/ Smog Pay Off?/ DIY is great..but to know how to bend the rules when needed......
I love people who answer questions using hard evidence instead of just making guesses. Awesome video dude!
Thanks mate!
Wow this was an excellent analysis! Just the evidence and explanation made me feel like I was a mechanic, even though I had no clue what you where talking about 😂 Great video 👍
😂Thanks!
Excellent review and test. I have a 2016 Honda Accord 6-speed manual that I have never done a carbon cleaning on before (95,000 miles). I was very concerned about destroying the Cat using this product. It seems that your Cat was fine afterwards and will continue to clean itself over time. I'll have to consider this in the near future. Thank you very much for your video.
You're welcome! All the best.
Great video. Ive avoided using that stuff for years wondering about this exact issue. Maybe Ill give it a try now.
Thanks! Same here, Avoided it for years before I decided to bite the bullet for science and the TH-cam multiverse 😅
@@DIYAutoworksNG I had read people saying it had no affect on the cats but I pictured hunks of crap just sitting in there. Nice to have some visual evidence.
Hey man, great video and thanks for the visuals! I definitely noticed my exhaust having more soot after using the stuff and was worried about my cat, but this gives me piece of mind.
Thanks for the compliment!!
One of the best decarb videos out there dude. Good job!
Thanks!
Great video! I watch Toyota Maintenance TH-cam show. He shows how he cleans Toyota air/fuel sensors with CRC Turbo cleaner spray. Man does it work! I will remove my 300K. Toyota Prius Cat. and clean it with CRC cleaner to make sure it is clean.
Yea. Good product. I have a part 2 of the video lined up. I'll view the intake valves, combustion chamber and cat before and after. Should be fun😅
@@DIYAutoworksNG Thank You! This really helps us All!
You're welcome!
Perfectly safe YOU MUST FOLLOW the DIRECTIONS . For better outcome repeat again in 1000 miles . Now you have a difference . After that repeat every 15,000 miles .
Haven't heard of the repeat after 1000 miles, but think it should help. Do you have a reference for this?
@@DIYAutoworksNG Used once at 325,000 miles on my 1998 Lexus GS 400 . Then repeated again 2 times every 1000 miles apart . Changed the oil after . Car now has 356,000 runs perfect , more power , and no mis idle .Now repeat once every 15,000 miles . Please follow the directions exactly nothing different .
"A bit of fast and furious" 🤣🤣 Amazing stuff, firmly grounded in the scientific method!✊
😂. Thanks.
It would be interesting to see the before and after pictures of the intake valves for a cleaning like this too, mind you others have shown some of those comparisons already, but this was certainly super helpful, thanks!
I also have the same video showing the intake valves. Just check on the channel page.
Excellent video my brother. I’m about to use this product my only regret is that I did the oil change before lol
Thanks for the compliment. Why not wait? The reason for the oil change afterwards is that because the fluid is so thin, some of it may leak past the piston rings and dilute the oil in the pan below.
Your the only one thar does and oil change. I've watched others that just do test drive after hour of cleaning the GDI.
The instructions on the can recommend doing an oil change after using the product.
Awesome! Thanks so much for the thorough, descriptive video.
Thanks!
thanks for the detailed video, im going to try this out on my audi, if I don't forget ill update w results
Please remember to update with results!
I like that normal highway speeds are 90 MPH where you live.
🤣
thanks for the video, did warning lights go out themselves after driving some more or did you erase them with scanner. thanks
They went out on their own
@@DIYAutoworksNG thanks
Nice and detailed analysis...
Thanks.
👍
Many thanks mate!
Good video Did you ever finish the the second video / part 2?
Thanks for the compliment. Yep, the part 2 is here th-cam.com/video/Czb6_xwkmYY/w-d-xo.html
Try the best combination...CRC for intake/throttle body cleaning..No one hour soak time..immediate drive time after.....but add Star Tron Enzyme Fuel treatment to fuel tank before and on regular basis..PEA/T.S. Alcohol/Naptha.....Have OBD 2 scanner on standby for codes...
Lol. For some reason, the no 1 hour soak cracked me up. Thanks for sharing. Not sure I'd attempt this approach since its contrary to the directions. Did you check before and after footage?
I am going to try this product on my 2019 ford ranger. Im nearing 30k miles. I just had my oil changed and filled up on 94 octane ultra premium along with a bottle of chevron fuel injection cleaner. I am going to run a can of the crc intake valve cleaner then do a drain and fill on my oil after 150 miles. Next oil change and filter I'll do in 3k miles. Think I'll try the spray right before the throttle body instead of letting it go into the intercooler.
Sounds good! If you don't mind, will be delighted to know how it goes.
@@DIYAutoworksNG with my experience rebuilding small engines, I typically go for head removal and manually cleaning valves and head along with valve lapping. I'd rather not go that route here just yet, maybe around 100k miles. I'll let ya know if there's any issues, but this is just about the next best thing. 👌
💯😎
One of the ingredients of the CRC is diesel fuel #2. I suspect that the darker color of the catalytic converter may be due to the diesel soot.
Hmmm. Saw petroleum distillates as one of the active ingredients. Wasn't clearly marked as diesel though.
Is this stuff safe for 2013 ford 150 3.5 ecoboost lariat
Exactly the kind of engine the product is designed for. CRC says its for GDI and turboed engines.
If your vehicle is a year 2000 regular fuel injection and not GDI, does this method work ?
Or is it best to treat fuel system from fuel tank?
There's a risk of hydrolocking engine?
There's no water in CRC, how is it possible?
If your car is not GDI, then there's no need using this method. Getting the variant that can be added to the tank or any other fuel system cleaner that works will be good (you can checkout this in-tank cleaner review of gumout all in one th-cam.com/video/GRP0thS-xCA/w-d-xo.html).
Hydrolocking applies to all fluids not just water. Fluids are not compressible, hence if you have a significant quantity in the combustion chamber, the engine will get damaged in the process of trying to compress the fluid.
@@DIYAutoworksNG
How do you know if an engine is hydrocked after doing this treatment?
The engine will suddenly stop during the test, and refuse to start. In essence the engine will get 'locked'.
So I just did a 99’ subaru legacy 200k and it ran amazing after. As long as you don’t do a continuous spray of the product i think its very difficult for hydrolocking as well I don’t do the rev part after or idling i just turn the car off and sit an hour and then rev it 3-4times drive 3-4ooorpm for 10mins.
Being gentle on the spray is key.
Very well explained
Thanks!
will this hurt the turbo
The can says no.
I’ve used it specifically for the turbo. It works well. Wynn’s is great for the turbo as well!
I would consider using something like Cataclean after to help. 👍
Haven't tried cataclean before, but seems like a good product.
@@DIYAutoworksNG
It has good reviews everywhere. But until I get oil consumption under control, P0420 is still going to happen.
I had the BG Engine Performance oil flush done a few weeks ago. Hoping its stuck oil rings.
Only driven 200 or so but no drop so far. 🙏
I did the CRC again almost an hour ago until I can get the BG 3-step fuel induction done.
Installed a catch can 6 weeks ago and it's working as far as I can see. But its not catching the 1/2 qt every 500-600 miles I was losing amd with no leaks, unless the oil stealing fairy comes at night, its obviously burning it.
Changed PCV valve?
Great Testing!!!!!
Many thanks!
Cheers mate!
Thanks
Thank you!!
You're welcome!
I'm also wondering if these products are chemically safe for the catalysts. There were few chances that carbon would block the pores but catalyst poisoning, contamination or aging due to substances not supposed to be there is much more likely.
CRC states its catalytic converter and oxygen sensor safe.
@@DIYAutoworksNG Thanks! I'd be curious to see a before/after catalyst efficiency too
I know! Unfortunately, I don't have a way to test this. But given that the margin for error on the cat is quite slim, I'd expect codes after some driving if poisoning had occurred.
I used this and got a 2097 code immediately afterward. Tried to reset but it came back.
I had about 3 codes as well as you could see, plus misfiring. That all cleared during the spirited drive. If its misfiring, drive in low revs till it clears up, then you put pedal to the metal.
Hello Boss please I need one of your diagnosing machine
Hi. You can checkout the links in the description of any of the scanning videos. I always include them there. These are links I have verified and you can use them.
2006 subie sti . I/m readiness not complete. Cat and o2sensor left. Will try this. Im in ct. 5 clear , 2 or not. Need 6 out of 7 to pass emissions. Ct tax ripoff state don't move here.
You just need to drive around, possible lookout for any specifics in the car on how to set the readiness monitors. Keen to know how it goes.
Can i use diesel to clean cat converter?
Never heard this method.
@@DIYAutoworksNG i already replace both oxygen sensors, tried lacquer thinner and cataclean but after 3 days 0430 came on again. Today am gonna try soap and water. That is why i ask if diesel is safe to use to clean cat converter. My cat converter is 1yo.
@@DIYAutoworksNG after replacing both oxygen sensors. 1 gallon of lacquer thinner poured in gas tank and my gas was half full and the other 1 gallon i poured directly into the cat converter. After 3 days 0430 is back. Same procedure i did with cataclean and same results.
Is P0430 the only code on the car?
@@DIYAutoworksNG i forgot i also tried denature alcohol but same results
Use the "Cataclean" next to see if there's any improvement in the honeycomb appearance.
When a catalyst is bad there's no way around it, it won't auto-clean itself with anything, and at the end it'll damage your engine... when you've a failure on your emissions system, fumble with these sprays is dangerous, for you and your family carbon monoxide kills...
@@karlwalter2242 you do know that the honeycomb inside a catalytic converter is made of precious metals capable of endure extreme conditions. The only ways a catalytic converter can become unusable is, if the engine runs too rich for too long or if too much oil is entering the combustion chamber and if it takes a hit hard enough to compromise its integrity and functionality. They in fact can be cleaned, if it's done before it gets too clogged with hydrocarbons and or oils, in that event temperatures will rise high enough causing ignition of those chemicals destroying the honeycomb or melting it in the worst case scenario.
@@guuuu666 , Not to be mean but, i'm a licensed auto tech with over 30 years of experience, don't let those gimmicks fool you... It can cost you more than a car... that's how people have loss their lives trying to save money dying from carbon monoxide inhalation, again.. when you get an emissions code is either the O2 sensors, a bad coil or a bad catalyst, one depends from the other and there's no magic spray to fix this...
@@guuuu666 , As maintenance? taking them off, and cleaning them by putting them on a bucket with water and a lot of Dawn soap helps to try erase a code, if this don't work, they gotta go..... with the catalyst installed? don't waste your time and money...
@@karlwalter2242 it's 😎, I figured you didn't understand my original comment. I don't own a car with easy access to the catalytic converter like that Honda and I was just asking if he could run a test of that product to see if it works and how well. I know catalytic converters can be cleaned when removed, as the family hard core car enthusiast I've been doing it for a few years so they can save money for a part that can last for 20 something years if the engine is properly maintained.
Is there any possible down side or Damage to Turbos ?
Not that I've experienced, but in the odd scenario where there's flying carbon from cleaning, yea, could damage something. In my opinion though, it's mostly vaporised.
👍👍
🤝🏼
Maybe just get the engine walnut blasted so the carbon is collected and disposed of.
No doubt, that's the best way of doing it, but not everyone has access to walnut blasting facilities, hence the appeal of spray cleaners.
But where the valves clean🤔
This video was more about catalytic converter blockage. For whether the product cleans intake valves, watch this other video th-cam.com/video/Czb6_xwkmYY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=IYnUviWbVsKrimU7
المفروض بعد ماتستخدم المنتج تقوم باخذ لفه حتى يختفي الدخان الابيض اذا كان موجود طريقتك عند اطفاءالمحرك والمنتج لازال موجود غلط
Rev 3 times, idle for a minute, turn off. Heat soak for 1hr and drive highway is the direction from the manufacturer..
Your audio is always too thin and the volume too low.
Would rather have seen the valves to see it had worked.
Thanks a lot for the feedback on the audio. Will see how to fix that.
I did try to snake the borescope camera past the throttle body to the intake valves, but Honda's design of the intake manifold on this car made it impossible. Only option would have been to disassemble the intake manifold to get images of the valves. Wasn't ready to do that just yet. I totally understand your point though. Well said.
Best fix is to get a new catalyst converter , you start fumbling with this and at the end your car is ruined...
I wasn't fixing anything, no codes at all. This was just to clean intake valves and then document any deposits on the cat. As you know, so many say spray intake cleaners risk dislodging chunks of carbon, leading to clogging of the cat.
LMAO, cleaning your valves on a DI engine is near fucking mandatory every 10k. If you are suggesting people buy a new cat that often you are fucking insane. Also, how would that help clean his valves? Just how dumb are you?