My son's 1997 Tahoe was having a similar issue. I cleaned the power connection you noted at the main fuse block and so far that seems to have done the trick. It was taking a long crank to start and would not stay running sometimes and the check engine light was on. Started right up after cleaning that cable and check engine light was off. Great info!
P1351-- Make a new Key! My old school classic style 2000 GMC quad cab 4wd, vortec 350, GMC does not have a chip in the key, so I never thought of this! I got code 1351 out of the blue and couldn't get rid of it or get the truck reliable, so, like every other person on any thread anywhere has done with a P1351 code, I replaced just about everything on the truck - coil, battery, ignition control module, complete distributor, plugs, wires, starter, voltage regulator/alternator, crank sensor- everything except the BIG computer...and that was next! Even looked for shorts in the wiring and patched up a few frayed spots. After and intermittently in between each of the 20 things I fixed/replaced the 'Service Engine Soon' light would go off and come back on after each repair or 10-20 starts in between each repair... Mechanic after mechanic.... money after money... tow fees... UNTIL last night, when an old master said he recommended I try a new key, the original key if possible. So I went home, got the original key, put it in, SES light went out. Got a new key made at the home depot and used it all day. All appears well after driving it all day and intentionally starting it 30 times during the day. He said that it has something to do with the built in security system-- if the key is worn, and after 15 years it IS, mine so worn I could pull it out of the ignition with the truck running (and I liked that because I farm and I didn't have to restart the truck after getting out and getting back in after unlocking and opening 3 gates a day...6 times a day!) If it's worn it doesn't always hit the tumblers right and if it doesn't hit the lock tumblers right you can crank and crank but the security system won't fire the cylinders... or for sure it won't fit right every time, and so it prevent cranking intermittently, never knowing when that will happen. EVEN IF you don't have a chip in your key, it does have some type magnetic operation about the tumbler connection that trips or doesn't trip that start-up security system, and a worn key won't hit right and trip or untrip the security system right every time. SO......Took original key and had new key made. Did notice that the original key and the new key will not pull out of ignition like my old key did, and so far, so good, Mystery solved for me. This time.
@@Reallionaire314 it worked for me i hace a 2000 chevy astro it stopped working during winter one day it got down to negative 20 coldest dat this past winter went out to start would not start ive changed the ignition coil ignition module fuel pump ,thermostat just because it needed it. Changed oil. Changed camshaft position sensor changed the magnetic sensor undervthe ebgine dont remember name changed cap and rotor twice couldnt not get it to run consistently would run stall die sometimes never crank up oh also got a new batterey. Then read this went and got my spare witch actually was the original chevy key and it crabked right up and stayed running shut down did it again stayed running thank you sososo mich for this
My hell raising PO1351 turned out to be.....Starter Relay. Spider Cracks from pin 30 to pin 86. Once I installed new Starter Relay. Problem gone. So nice to crank for a moment and engine starts on 1996 GMC Savana 305 L30 custom van 137k odometer.
A reputable rebuilder, or a new GM starter. Or try a starter from a 4WD or K model. They usually have a smaller permanent magnet starter. Less electrical draw, and it's lightweight. Remember; 305 to 305, 350 to 350. Different diameter flexplates and flywheels.
Excellent video and information. My 1998 GMC C1500 had the same problem and code P1351. Turned out to be the battery cable was loose. Tightened it and it fixed the issues...take care and have a great day!
When some tell you what was the problem jumps in a lot of peolpe that they knows what was the problem , this was not the started , were the cable connection but were no loose . But your are good guessing , we as technician if we suspect some things is wrong we have to confirm it with 1 dollar tool or 12 thousands dollar tool like the 1 I used here
I have a 1997 k1500 vortec (on my channel) Runs great but occasionally will crank, fire, then die only when hot outside temps and engine is heat soaked. Once cooled down with hood open for 20 minutes, starts and runs fine. Sometimes i can keep it running if i dance with pedal keep rpms high after start. Previously it would cut out in rpm range when hot. Replaced ignition control module and that problem went away but still have heat soaked hot start issue. Seems to crank normally no slow crank. No codes.
.y problem started after i changed the starter. The old starter was dragging super low, put new starter in and it was good for a week then all crank no start.
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My son's 1997 Tahoe was having a similar issue. I cleaned the power connection you noted at the main fuse block and so far that seems to have done the trick. It was taking a long crank to start and would not stay running sometimes and the check engine light was on. Started right up after cleaning that cable and check engine light was off. Great info!
nice
P1351-- Make a new Key!
My old school classic style 2000 GMC quad cab 4wd, vortec 350, GMC does not have a chip in the key, so I never thought of this!
I got code 1351 out of the blue and couldn't get rid of it or get the truck reliable, so, like every other person on any thread anywhere has done with a P1351 code, I replaced just about everything on the truck - coil, battery, ignition control module, complete distributor, plugs, wires, starter, voltage regulator/alternator, crank sensor- everything except the BIG computer...and that was next!
Even looked for shorts in the wiring and patched up a few frayed spots. After and intermittently in between each of the 20 things I fixed/replaced the 'Service Engine Soon' light would go off and come back on after each repair or 10-20 starts in between each repair... Mechanic after mechanic.... money after money... tow fees...
UNTIL last night, when an old master said he recommended I try a new key, the original key if possible. So I went home, got the original key, put it in, SES light went out. Got a new key made at the home depot and used it all day. All appears well after driving it all day and intentionally starting it 30 times during the day.
He said that it has something to do with the built in security system-- if the key is worn, and after 15 years it IS, mine so worn I could pull it out of the ignition with the truck running (and I liked that because I farm and I didn't have to restart the truck after getting out and getting back in after unlocking and opening 3 gates a day...6 times a day!)
If it's worn it doesn't always hit the tumblers right and if it doesn't hit the lock tumblers right you can crank and crank but the security system won't fire the cylinders... or for sure it won't fit right every time, and so it prevent cranking intermittently, never knowing when that will happen. EVEN IF you don't have a chip in your key, it does have some type magnetic operation about the tumbler connection that trips or doesn't trip that start-up security system, and a worn key won't hit right and trip or untrip the security system right every time.
SO......Took original key and had new key made. Did notice that the original key and the new key will not pull out of ignition like my old key did, and so far, so good, Mystery solved for me. This time.
+cissy vaughn
the problem with this vehicle was started motor , and voltage drop on battery terminal
cissy vaughn z
im going tomorow getting new key ive spent weeks and 800$ hope it works for me
@@michaelbaskin8271 did it work?
@@Reallionaire314 it worked for me i hace a 2000 chevy astro it stopped working during winter one day it got down to negative 20 coldest dat this past winter went out to start would not start ive changed the ignition coil ignition module fuel pump ,thermostat just because it needed it. Changed oil. Changed camshaft position sensor changed the magnetic sensor undervthe ebgine dont remember name changed cap and rotor twice couldnt not get it to run consistently would run stall die sometimes never crank up oh also got a new batterey. Then read this went and got my spare witch actually was the original chevy key and it crabked right up and stayed running shut down did it again stayed running thank you sososo mich for this
Excelente máster Joel
Gracias por compartir 🇸🇻💃😁💪
💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻👍
My hell raising PO1351 turned out to be.....Starter Relay. Spider Cracks from pin 30 to pin 86. Once I installed new Starter Relay. Problem gone. So nice to crank for a moment and engine starts on 1996 GMC Savana 305 L30 custom van 137k odometer.
Started was the problem here too
Where did you get starter from sir? I have same problems, same truck…
Make sure the battery cables, all cables are tight
A reputable rebuilder, or a new GM starter. Or try a starter from a 4WD or K model. They usually have a smaller permanent magnet starter. Less electrical draw, and it's lightweight. Remember; 305 to 305, 350 to 350. Different diameter flexplates and flywheels.
Excellent video and information. My 1998 GMC C1500 had the same problem and code P1351. Turned out to be the battery cable was loose. Tightened it and it fixed the issues...take care and have a great day!
Charles Almond thank you for your input
Charles Almond
I diagnosed a bad starter when i first heard it crank over without a $20000 scan tool 🤣
When some tell you what was the problem jumps in a lot of peolpe that they knows what was the problem , this was not the started , were the cable connection but were no loose . But your are good guessing , we as technician if we suspect some things is wrong we have to confirm it with 1 dollar tool or 12 thousands dollar tool like the 1 I used here
great scope capture Joel thanks
Mark Ferraro
your welcome
I have a 1997 k1500 vortec (on my channel) Runs great but occasionally will crank, fire, then die only when hot outside temps and engine is heat soaked. Once cooled down with hood open for 20 minutes, starts and runs fine. Sometimes i can keep it running if i dance with pedal keep rpms high after start. Previously it would cut out in rpm range when hot. Replaced ignition control module and that problem went away but still have heat soaked hot start issue. Seems to crank normally no slow crank. No codes.
Where is the power feed you mention that you cleaned located?
this was caused for battery termina with green crusty , check your ground cable from the body to block
.y problem started after i changed the starter. The old starter was dragging super low, put new starter in and it was good for a week then all crank no start.
What kind of scan tool you using?
snap on verus wireless pro
I'm thinking I could have the same situation. Only thing is that my truck turned off while coming to a stop.
Ismael Carrillo
I think that is diferente
saludos amigo
Clean the throttle body /egr/idle control
I have the same problem I already change everything except the starter but I only get that code when I hit 80mph does anyone know the cause?
That's funny did someone do a burnout
Starter
Yes
Crankshaft position sensor
Nop
Imigrer de colisse tu comprent rien entoute
This is not good information at all .