Hi guys I just wanted to Introduce to you my other Channel "Kirkman's Academy" - which i'm just getting started. It's a go-to channel for simple explanations for hard to grasp subjects such as physics, maths and chemistry etc. Here is the link: www.youtube.com/@kirkmansacademy/videos . Thank you so much for looking, and if these topics interest you then I hope to see you the there. Many thanks indeed. Craig 😊👍
Anyone who has any mechanical ability at all could become a master small engine mechanic by simply watching all your teaching videos. I’ve never seen anything even close to your explanations complete with moving illustrations. Very generous of you to share your abundance of knowledge here in this setting. Thank you so much!
Seriously! In "this digital age", Craig's efforts could literally be used by ANY "apprentice" who desired to take it on... I DO wonder what the "threat to 2stroke" of lithium OPE/gear will do to this niche, obviously my bucking/felling saws are 2stroke but for climbsaws lithium is ALMOST the superior alternative (some say it already is...they are mistaken...Eg my fave climbing unit, the echo 2511t, is a scratch over 5lbs and is one of the most powerful 25cc's I've ever held, while the ~$1k Husqvarna climbsaw is about as-powerful but substantially heavier) It will probably not be too long before lithium overtakes smaller 2 strokes on power-to-weight, which is the only reason most climbers shy from them despite their increased convenience & decreased messiness... Craig's probably the 2nd-to-last generation of 2stroke repair'ing as we know it right now, I'd wager.
Fantastic! After changing out my fuel lines I couldn't get my chainsaw to run properly. After watching the video and downloading the written directions, presto it runs like a champ! Thank you!
I wish this would be “normal procedure” for all TH-cam videos: First example then theory. Unfortunately only a few TH-camrs understand how we as humans learn. Go for it
Re the H&L needles' tips: When you bottom-out a needle (fully inserted/as much clockwise as possible), is it true that the tips of the needles can get bent? I had been told that SO often (and repeated it myself...), but after a few watches of this video I cannot help conclude it's probably unlikely that it's even possible to "bend an L screw's top by seating it/CW'ing it 'too hard'", would greatly appreciate your insight Craig! Have always gone SO gentle when seating my adjustment screws to fully-in, to avoiding damaging their thin tips, but this video's diagrams make me think that a fully seated screw is not bottoming-out its tip, but instead is bottoming-out the flared shafting higher up on the screw. Thanks a million for what you do here with your channel, the useful/practical help i get makes your channel my 1st stop BUT I gotta say I admire the hell out of what you do, i don't mean your knowledge i mean your passion in sharing it "thanklessly" like this, whatever little $ you get from it is obviously NOTHING compared to the value that I, and MANY others, get from it. I cannot tell you how much appreciation i have for this kind of undertaking, it FAR exceeds the practical solutions & 2-stroke knowledge that i learn. I'll continue spreading your "brand" / url on the arborist&climber boards/forums that I frequent, you truly contribute more to this awesome niche than almost any other single individual that i can think of!!!
Coming from a larger 4 Stoke background there was a few key tips like where stuff was you really helped me solve today. Chainsaw went from not idling hot to ticking over fine. Thanks for the video 👍
Very good video and well explained also ! Yes those tiny little holes inside the carburetor for the idle side must be clean and not blocked by any debris or any crud in there ! Many people forget about the idle screw setting and if it's not set high enough then your not gonna get your chainsaw to idle at all or it will be sporadic at least !
Issue solved on Makita chainsaw, that actually has 3 screws (L,H,S). S is specifically added for idling speed setting. L and H should not be changed without tachometer according to Makita's user manual. The issue in my case was that chain was moving in idle state as if the throttle would be pressed a bit. Thank you for this video!
Completely agree with the comments below. Thank you for the great videos and descriptions. All other videos leave me with unanswered questions. You helped me get my chainsaw back in action and I will be back for more of your content. Thanks so much 😄
Thank you very much for free downloads . Information video was the best explanation on how to tune chainsaw. your diagram is most helpful and could see what to do to sort it out Dave
How does air get to the primer bulb drawing directly from the metering area when both gaskets, primer bulb [kit installed] are new including the fuel lines? The filter, grommet and fuel line replaced going to the carb. The kit installed. New primer/purge bulb which comes with hose that connects to the brass fitting which is pressed into the carb body that draws directly from the metering area. You can see a ton of air coming down the clear hose leading from the carb to the primer bulb. The carb had the problem of air coming down the hose to the bulb. Put in the kit, still sucking air. Replaced carb, problem gone. Used chainsaw last Fall, last spring, use the hell out of it, [4 months ago. A few weeks ago, I went to start/run it for maintenance, and it has the same problem as before I changed the carb. Somehow, within the body of the carbs, air is getting into the metering area. It will start with choak, hit the trigger and it will idle for about 10 seconds and die. Instant full throttle it bogs and dies. If I feather the throttle, it will keep running and if I get the RPM's up to 80% of full, then I can squeeze it at full throttle, but it's not running right with low power. Clearly a lean fuel starvation situation because the metering area is not getting solid fuel. P.S. The high/low screws haven't been changed both on the old carb or the new one with both of then working perfectly at some point and time.
So if I had a saw that won’t idle for too long but while it is idling the chain is moving I should turn the L screw to the left to let more fuel in and the T screw to the right to stop the close the throttle plate a bit?
HI thank you for reaching out with your question about your chainsaw stalling when you touch the accelerator after changing the diaphragm. It sounds like you've taken a proactive step in replacing the diaphragm, which is a critical component of the carburetor responsible for fuel metering and delivery. However, a few factors could contribute to the chainsaw stalling issue after this replacement: Diaphragm Installation: Ensure the new diaphragm was installed correctly, with all components properly seated and sealed within the carburetor. Any misalignment or improper installation could affect fuel flow and engine performance. Carburetor Adjustment: After diaphragm replacement, it's possible that carburetor settings need adjustment, particularly the idle and high-speed screws. Incorrect settings can lead to a lean or rich fuel mixture, causing the engine to stall when accelerating. Fuel System Issues: Check for any fuel system issues such as clogged fuel lines, dirty fuel filter, or improper fuel mixture. A restricted fuel flow can cause engine hesitation or stalling. Air Leaks: Inspect for air leaks around the carburetor and intake manifold. Unwanted air intake can disrupt the air-fuel ratio and affect engine operation. To troubleshoot and resolve the chainsaw stalling issue, I recommend the following steps: Recheck the diaphragm installation for correctness and tightness. Adjust the carburetor settings according to the manufacturer's specifications. Inspect and clean the fuel system components, ensuring proper fuel flow and quality. Verify there are no air leaks around the carburetor or intake. If troubleshooting these areas does not resolve the issue, further diagnosis by a qualified technician may be needed to pinpoint the exact cause of the stalling problem. I hope these suggestions help guide you toward resolving the chainsaw's performance issue. If you have additional questions or need further assistance, please feel free to ask. Thank you for being part of our community and seeking solutions to improve your equipment! Best regards, Craig
Have a Jonsered chainsaw and their manual literally doesn't explain anything about the LH adjustments whatsoever. Thanks. I also bought a Stihl and recommend them over Jonsered.
I have a problem: chainsaw idles normally (though it vibrates too much too my taste) and it works pretty normally at high revs, but it completely stops if throttle is pushed fast. I have to push it very gently so chainsaw revs up. What could that be? That's Makita chainsaw ea3202s.
Try adjusting the 'L' screw Anti-clockwise slowly, whist you have the chainsaw running and stable, safely of course, and see if the problem goes away, as shown in the first example in the video. In this example, my chainsaw bogs upon throttle. If this does not work then watch this video where I show how to completely reset the carb. If this doen't work then you might have a larger problem with the carb or even the crankcase maybe. Before we jump too far, however, I personally would try the reset first. I hope this helps. Craig : Chainsaw Carburetor Adjustment | How to Tune 'Correctly' th-cam.com/video/74p9FLmIkkw/w-d-xo.html
HI. Its quite difficult to diagnose the problem with not having the saw with me. There are a number of causes that can produce such a symptom. Please take a look at these videos and see if they helps any. Its my other video collection on the topic: CHAINSAW CARBURETOR FUEL SCREW SETTINGS do this Inside Carb th-cam.com/video/wzXvHKNWF4Q/w-d-xo.html CHAINSAW DIES WHEN THROTTLED: th-cam.com/video/_wI-X7aot8Y/w-d-xo.html How to Tune a Chainsaw Carburetor - Practice & Theory together - Unique video! th-cam.com/video/sQ4hmM_xoXQ/w-d-xo.html CHAINSAW BOG DOWN - How I Easily Fixed it. (You can to!) th-cam.com/video/Eo6iUTjcQ8Q/w-d-xo.html 2 Stroke Engine Bog - Some Reasons Why & Solutions th-cam.com/video/vrPg2VTA39I/w-d-xo.html I hope these help Thanks Craig
I have switched to Electric Brush Cutters, Hedge Trimmers and Chainsaws !!!! If I have a carburettor problem, I throw the Carburettor away and buy a New Carburettor from Amazon !!!! I can't be bothered to spend hours trying to fix a Problem with a Carburettor !!!! This Ethanol Fuel is horrible Stuff and you need to Drain out all the fuel from your equipment each time you store it !!!!!!
Good luck with all battery power lawn equipment, I will admit the smaller lithium battery powered chainsaws are pretty neat though ! If you should continue with gasoline equipment use ethanol free gasoline premium grade only and when replacing fuel lines use the black or at least ethanol resistant lines
I used to use the word vacuum and I got a of complaints about that because one could argue that the word vacuum, as used in physics, means: Space entirely devoid of matter! My explanation using suction pressure gets my point across well so it’s good with me and most others!
![ลองสุ่มไอโฟน 990 โกงมั้ย? [ โกงมั้ยครับ ep.101 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bfsWe0j492k/mqdefault.jpg)
Hi guys I just wanted to Introduce to you my other Channel "Kirkman's Academy" - which i'm just getting started. It's a go-to channel for simple explanations for hard to grasp subjects such as physics, maths and chemistry etc. Here is the link: www.youtube.com/@kirkmansacademy/videos . Thank you so much for looking, and if these topics interest you then I hope to see you the there. Many thanks indeed. Craig 😊👍
Anyone who has any mechanical ability at all could become a master small engine mechanic by simply watching all your teaching videos. I’ve never seen anything even close to your explanations complete with moving illustrations. Very generous of you to share your abundance of knowledge here in this setting. Thank you so much!
Wow. That is some of the best feedback i've had. Thank you so much. Craig 👍👍👍
Seriously! In "this digital age", Craig's efforts could literally be used by ANY "apprentice" who desired to take it on... I DO wonder what the "threat to 2stroke" of lithium OPE/gear will do to this niche, obviously my bucking/felling saws are 2stroke but for climbsaws lithium is ALMOST the superior alternative (some say it already is...they are mistaken...Eg my fave climbing unit, the echo 2511t, is a scratch over 5lbs and is one of the most powerful 25cc's I've ever held, while the ~$1k Husqvarna climbsaw is about as-powerful but substantially heavier) It will probably not be too long before lithium overtakes smaller 2 strokes on power-to-weight, which is the only reason most climbers shy from them despite their increased convenience & decreased messiness... Craig's probably the 2nd-to-last generation of 2stroke repair'ing as we know it right now, I'd wager.
This channel is so informational and easy to understand, nobody even comes close to matching this content.
Wow. Thank you so much for your very kind and motivating feedback. I really appreciate it. Craig 👍👍👍👍
I’ve seen air leaks cause idling issues as well. Great video!
Yes definitely. Thanks for watching. I love your channel 👍👍👍
This advice helped me to get my old Makita running after coming close to giving up on it. Thank you so much. 😊
Fantastic! After changing out my fuel lines I couldn't get my chainsaw to run properly. After watching the video and downloading the written directions, presto it runs like a champ! Thank you!
That has never been explained so clearly before. Helped me heaps. Thank you!
I really appreciate your awesome comment. Thank you. Craig 👍👍👍
Very helpful video I know the ins and outs of small 4 stroke engines but now I'm just starting to get the hang of two strokes
I wish this would be “normal procedure” for all TH-cam videos:
First example then theory. Unfortunately only a few TH-camrs understand how we as humans learn.
Go for it
Thank you.
Re the H&L needles' tips: When you bottom-out a needle (fully inserted/as much clockwise as possible), is it true that the tips of the needles can get bent? I had been told that SO often (and repeated it myself...), but after a few watches of this video I cannot help conclude it's probably unlikely that it's even possible to "bend an L screw's top by seating it/CW'ing it 'too hard'", would greatly appreciate your insight Craig! Have always gone SO gentle when seating my adjustment screws to fully-in, to avoiding damaging their thin tips, but this video's diagrams make me think that a fully seated screw is not bottoming-out its tip, but instead is bottoming-out the flared shafting higher up on the screw.
Thanks a million for what you do here with your channel, the useful/practical help i get makes your channel my 1st stop BUT I gotta say I admire the hell out of what you do, i don't mean your knowledge i mean your passion in sharing it "thanklessly" like this, whatever little $ you get from it is obviously NOTHING compared to the value that I, and MANY others, get from it. I cannot tell you how much appreciation i have for this kind of undertaking, it FAR exceeds the practical solutions & 2-stroke knowledge that i learn. I'll continue spreading your "brand" / url on the arborist&climber boards/forums that I frequent, you truly contribute more to this awesome niche than almost any other single individual that i can think of!!!
Coming from a larger 4 Stoke background there was a few key tips like where stuff was you really helped me solve today. Chainsaw went from not idling hot to ticking over fine.
Thanks for the video 👍
Thank you. I really appreciate your feedback. Craig 👍👍
Very good video and well explained also ! Yes those tiny little holes inside the carburetor for the idle side must be clean and not blocked by any debris or any crud in there ! Many people forget about the idle screw setting and if it's not set high enough then your not gonna get your chainsaw to idle at all or it will be sporadic at least !
Issue solved on Makita chainsaw, that actually has 3 screws (L,H,S). S is specifically added for idling speed setting. L and H should not be changed without tachometer according to Makita's user manual. The issue in my case was that chain was moving in idle state as if the throttle would be pressed a bit. Thank you for this video!
Thanks for taking your time to put all this together. The way you explain everything and the visual aids are awesome!
Thank you so much I really appreciate it. Craig
Completely agree with the comments below. Thank you for the great videos and descriptions. All other videos leave me with unanswered questions. You helped me get my chainsaw back in action and I will be back for more of your content. Thanks so much 😄
I especially enjoy the knowledge lovers section
Thanks for your awesome comment. I really appreciate it. Craig 👍👍👍
a quick question on the t screw if it is turned all the way in what is the proper adjustment back out for it to run the correct way.
good clear instructions , spoken in a very easy to understand laymans term . well done ,
Thank you very much for free downloads .
Information video was the best explanation on how to tune chainsaw. your diagram is most helpful and could see what to do to sort it out
Dave
You are welcome Dave. Thank you very much for your kind and encouraging feedback. Craig 👍👍👍
GREAT!! i just bought this exact CS on ebay, ur a lifesaver Kirkman
Really fantastic these, helped me fully understand what is going on once and for all!
Again, great video, Thanks for the download.
Helped me out load’s keep the videos going 👍👍👍👍👍
Excellent tutorial.
amazing video.. perfect explanation love it, good stuff god bless you.
Thanks, you too! 👍👍👍
Thank you for posting this.
How does air get to the primer bulb drawing directly from the metering area when both gaskets, primer bulb [kit installed] are new including the fuel lines?
The filter, grommet and fuel line replaced going to the carb. The kit installed. New primer/purge bulb which comes with hose that connects to the brass fitting which is pressed into the carb body that draws directly from the metering area. You can see a ton of air coming down the clear hose leading from the carb to the primer bulb.
The carb had the problem of air coming down the hose to the bulb. Put in the kit, still sucking air. Replaced carb, problem gone. Used chainsaw last Fall, last spring, use the hell out of it, [4 months ago. A few weeks ago, I went to start/run it for maintenance, and it has the same problem as before I changed the carb.
Somehow, within the body of the carbs, air is getting into the metering area. It will start with choak, hit the trigger and it will idle for about 10 seconds and die. Instant full throttle it bogs and dies. If I feather the throttle, it will keep running and if I get the RPM's up to 80% of full, then I can squeeze it at full throttle, but it's not running right with low power. Clearly a lean fuel starvation situation because the metering area is not getting solid fuel.
P.S. The high/low screws haven't been changed both on the old carb or the new one with both of then working perfectly at some point and time.
top man sorted straight away.
So if I had a saw that won’t idle for too long but while it is idling the chain is moving I should turn the L screw to the left to let more fuel in and the T screw to the right to stop the close the throttle plate a bit?
Great job with this video
What do you do when your saw refuses to start in the first place, and you know the screws are way off, but you don't know which way to turn them?
Excellent video.
Have you got any free downloads?
Clear and concise. Thanks
You're welcome! Thank you 👍
Thanks heaps. Your videos and help is great 👍
Thank you. I really appreciate it. Craig
Thank you for your video, but your website is unavailable🙁...
Yes apologies for that. There’s a new one in production and hopefully launched soon
Thank you
Very good info.
Thank you. Craig
Great video
Thanks! 👍👍
Nice video. Thanks
Thank you for your feedback. I really appreciate it. Craig
I’m struggling to download the manual
Why does it turn off as soon as I touch the accelerator if I changed the diaphragm?
HI
thank you for reaching out with your question about your chainsaw stalling when you touch the accelerator after changing the diaphragm.
It sounds like you've taken a proactive step in replacing the diaphragm, which is a critical component of the carburetor responsible for fuel metering and delivery. However, a few factors could contribute to the chainsaw stalling issue after this replacement:
Diaphragm Installation: Ensure the new diaphragm was installed correctly, with all components properly seated and sealed within the carburetor. Any misalignment or improper installation could affect fuel flow and engine performance.
Carburetor Adjustment: After diaphragm replacement, it's possible that carburetor settings need adjustment, particularly the idle and high-speed screws. Incorrect settings can lead to a lean or rich fuel mixture, causing the engine to stall when accelerating.
Fuel System Issues: Check for any fuel system issues such as clogged fuel lines, dirty fuel filter, or improper fuel mixture. A restricted fuel flow can cause engine hesitation or stalling.
Air Leaks: Inspect for air leaks around the carburetor and intake manifold. Unwanted air intake can disrupt the air-fuel ratio and affect engine operation.
To troubleshoot and resolve the chainsaw stalling issue, I recommend the following steps:
Recheck the diaphragm installation for correctness and tightness.
Adjust the carburetor settings according to the manufacturer's specifications.
Inspect and clean the fuel system components, ensuring proper fuel flow and quality.
Verify there are no air leaks around the carburetor or intake.
If troubleshooting these areas does not resolve the issue, further diagnosis by a qualified technician may be needed to pinpoint the exact cause of the stalling problem.
I hope these suggestions help guide you toward resolving the chainsaw's performance issue. If you have additional questions or need further assistance, please feel free to ask. Thank you for being part of our community and seeking solutions to improve your equipment!
Best regards,
Craig
Have a Jonsered chainsaw and their manual literally doesn't explain anything about the LH adjustments whatsoever. Thanks. I also bought a Stihl and recommend them over Jonsered.
I have a problem: chainsaw idles normally (though it vibrates too much too my taste) and it works pretty normally at high revs, but it completely stops if throttle is pushed fast. I have to push it very gently so chainsaw revs up. What could that be? That's Makita chainsaw ea3202s.
Try adjusting the 'L' screw Anti-clockwise slowly, whist you have the chainsaw running and stable, safely of course, and see if the problem goes away, as shown in the first example in the video. In this example, my chainsaw bogs upon throttle. If this does not work then watch this video where I show how to completely reset the carb. If this doen't work then you might have a larger problem with the carb or even the crankcase maybe. Before we jump too far, however, I personally would try the reset first.
I hope this helps. Craig :
Chainsaw Carburetor Adjustment | How to Tune 'Correctly'
th-cam.com/video/74p9FLmIkkw/w-d-xo.html
I have Stihl 880 and 171
Wonderful
Thanks
Thank you too!
Sir my chainsaw starts n runs for few minutes and automatically offs.
Any idea please
HI. Its quite difficult to diagnose the problem with not having the saw with me. There are a number of causes that can produce such a symptom. Please take a look at these videos and see if they helps any. Its my other video collection on the topic:
CHAINSAW CARBURETOR FUEL SCREW SETTINGS do this Inside Carb th-cam.com/video/wzXvHKNWF4Q/w-d-xo.html
CHAINSAW DIES WHEN THROTTLED: th-cam.com/video/_wI-X7aot8Y/w-d-xo.html
How to Tune a Chainsaw Carburetor - Practice & Theory together - Unique video!
th-cam.com/video/sQ4hmM_xoXQ/w-d-xo.html
CHAINSAW BOG DOWN - How I Easily Fixed it. (You can to!)
th-cam.com/video/Eo6iUTjcQ8Q/w-d-xo.html
2 Stroke Engine Bog - Some Reasons Why & Solutions
th-cam.com/video/vrPg2VTA39I/w-d-xo.html
I hope these help
Thanks
Craig
Mine won't idle long enough to adjust anything
Try turn it to bottom, then open one full turn and quarter.
Dang still can't get my freakin 2 stroke scooter to idle for more than 30 seconds, I'll keep watching these videos and trying though.
I have switched to Electric Brush Cutters, Hedge Trimmers and Chainsaws !!!! If I have a carburettor problem, I throw the Carburettor away and buy a New Carburettor from Amazon !!!! I can't be bothered to spend hours trying to fix a Problem with a Carburettor !!!! This Ethanol Fuel is horrible Stuff and you need to Drain out all the fuel from your equipment each time you store it !!!!!!
Good luck with all battery power lawn equipment, I will admit the smaller lithium battery powered chainsaws are pretty neat though ! If you should continue with gasoline equipment use ethanol free gasoline premium grade only and when replacing fuel lines use the black or at least ethanol resistant lines
👍
Thanks 👍
What kind of of chainsaw is that?! There aren't screws like that on Husqvarna
All Episodes -for 2-Stroke Carburetors Here. Thanks. Craig:
th-cam.com/play/PLrlXp3PlwgRI5OLvm3P91LJr1CYnO5TRD.html
Carburetor isn’t tuned correctly.
I’m unsure what you are asking me!
What problem with this Chinese chainsaw?
What is suction pressure ? Do you mean vacuum ? Pressure and vacuum are not the same thing. Suction pressure is an oxymoron.
I used to use the word vacuum and I got a of complaints about that because one could argue that the word vacuum, as used in physics, means: Space entirely devoid of matter! My explanation using suction pressure gets my point across well so it’s good with me and most others!
Very detailed explanation.
Thank you. Craig