Hi guys I just wanted to Introduce to you my other Channel "Kirkman's Academy" - which i'm just getting started. It's a go-to channel for simple explanations for hard to grasp subjects such as physics, maths and chemistry etc. Here is the link: www.youtube.com/@kirkmansacademy/videos . Thank you so much for looking, and if these topics interest you then I hope to see you the there. Many thanks indeed. Craig 😊👍
I have been in the small engine repair business for a few years. One can never get tired of watching these videos. This one is well done and one of the better by far videos out here on the net. This is a must watch video for any up comer in small engine repair. Thanks for this video.
Hi Guys. I meant to mention in the video that the High Jet is usually NOT separate from the main Jet, as in the video I have shown them as separate. Usually, the High Jet adjustment Screw simply adjusts the amount of fuel that comes out of the main Jet itself. I have shown the Main Jet as separate in this video just to try and explain a principle of how Jets and their adjustment screws work. I hope this makes things clear rather than more complex. I'm really Sorry if it has. Also, another thing I should have mentioned is that the examples I have shown are mainly based around a lack of fuel getting to the engine as a cause of engine bog. Of course, too much fuel getting to the engine can also cause the engine to die as well. I will make a future video showing this. Again apologies for not mentioning this. I really appreciate you taking the time to look at my videos. Craig
I’ve watched a lot of chainsaw tuning videos, and this is by far the best. Most videos tackle the bogging issue from one possibility only like, “your chainsaw is bogging because your mixture screws need adjustment”. You cover all the possibilities and you do it quickly and concisely without wasting time. Basically as close to a perfect video as possible. Thanks so much for making it.
I've seen some good video's about small engine repairs but I must say this video is tops. I;m a retired Loco maintainer/Motor mechanic so I understand the detailed processes you have covered. Well done.
I have to agree his detailed explanations and diagrams are so clear and concise and not missing any critical information.. cheers to him for this ! this was a great help in my repairs of my homelite xl..
You've put a lot of work into this. I wish this information was so readily available fifty years ago. Your information is greatly appreciated. Thank you.
The most information I have gathered to date from any class or video on the function of the mysterious little parts inside the carburetor of a chain saw. Well done!
Your info and tuition has taken me from zero capability to a point where I rarely fail to fix a machine , just a hobby really but I have become a really popular person :) and its very satisfying for a retired engineer to still do a bit of ' fettling' .
Brilliant tuition! Really appreciate the rapid pace, synced diagrams and complete lack of stupid asides in the commentary. Bravo. Subbed and passed on.
I saw a chainsaw for only $35 listed in an estate sale ad, so I bought it and all it needed was a bit of air/fuel adjustment. Thank you! I'm so happy. Amazing video. I found myself watching, even after I fixed my problem.
Wow, what a great find at the estate sale! It's always exciting to stumble upon a bargain, especially when it turns out to be something as useful as a chainsaw. It's fantastic to hear that all it needed was a simple adjustment to get it up and running smoothly again. There's something incredibly satisfying about being able to fix a problem and bring a piece of equipment back to life. I'm thrilled that the video was helpful to you, even after you'd solved your issue. It's wonderful to know that the content continues to be useful and engaging. Happy sawing, and may your chainsaw serve you well for many projects to come! Craig
You are extremely thorough, with great illustrations and a wonderful way of explaining things. Much more thorough than our tech teacher back in the 1970's. Thank you.
That was by far the best carb-chainsaw related explanation and in-depth video I’ve come across. Thank you. I’ll be passing this one onto a friend, who’s MS391 starts ok but just won’t keep running. No matter the fuel or how much he adjusts the jets.
Excellent video. I had a broken tube from the crank case to the top of the carb. ( Sort of a PCV system ). It was causing a severe lean condition. Replaced the tube and all is well. I had forgotten the 2 stroke intake procedure into the crankcase first to lube the engine. The excellent crankcase section of your video jogged my memory on 2 cyc operation. Thanks Ed.
I'm so glad i came across your channel this year. I feel like i'm doing in class learning with a teacher right in front of me. Every video is very well explained that anyone can comprehend and also down to details like no other with lots of pictures/images and parts of what you're explaining. I love the fact that after watching a video i don't feel like second guessing myself. Thank you for taking the time to do this and share it. Excellent work, keep it up! Marco Palmigiani - Ontario, Canada 🇨🇦
Man now every thing about fuel flow come to my sense, you even cover about carburetor. Thankyou good sir. It's the simplest way you could teach amateur to come to a good understanding about this
An excellent video. A couple of comments that are important details not covered: The High & Low mixture screws are shown being tightened shut. I've never had a problem myself but have heard that damage can be caused if these screws are over tightened. Also, after they've been removed for cleaning the tubes (I prefer to use carb cleaner personally, rather than an air line) and replaced, they need to be set to a level where the engine has a chance of running initially before fine tuning. I set the screws at around one and a quarter turns out. I love the clear diagrams used - a picture tells a thousand words.
This is one of the best videos I have seen on a two cycle fuel system! Every well done with common problems found. Thank you for putting this together.
This guy making this video is so knowledgeable, I do say, it be easy to believe he’s the engineer who designed and had it manufactured. What a pleasure to listen and learn from a true expert. BRAVO!!! Video well done, too!
Excellent video, You have definitely solved all my chainsaw bogging problems. I know now that if my saw starts to bog down, find the nearest skip, and chuck it in, then buy myself a lovely new chainsaw. Problem sorted. LOL.
At 68, retired, with chainsaws and weed wackers, powerwashers and tillers, thanks for the BEST education videos I have ever seen! Subscribed and Liked!
Excellent video. My son almost had me convinced that I had burned the clutch out but I'm a little older, a little wiser, more patience. Thank You for this valuable information. Keep them coming 😃
I am surprised to learn of the complexity of a small carburetor on a garden tool. It's a world inside a world and your videos are the most informative of all I have seen yet.
Great video. I have three Homelite yard tools all with 20cc engines. They lasted for over 10-years before I started having carburetor problems. Several times I've replaced the carburetors with new ones from Amazon. But these new ones only lasted one to two years. I then started doing overhauls on the original carburetor with new gaskets, diaphragm, metering device, etc. Now it runs great with good throttle response but only for about 10-minutes until it warms up. Then I get the bog down. It comes on gradually and I first notice it due to delayed throttle response that eventually turns to the bog down happening at lower and lower rpm until stall. After it cools it runs again. On my string trimmer I replaced all the parts other than the valve as none of the kits have the correct length replacement. This includes the primer bulb, filter screen, metering diaphragm, metering spring, metering anvil, pivot shaft, gas cap, gas tank, gas tank pickup filter, gas lines, and carburetor to manifold gasket. And the gradually bog down to stall when warmed up still happens. Any ideas what might be the issue?
Have you completely excluded fuel venting malfunction? Crack open the fuel cap when symptoms start and if they go away, there's your problem. This is covered around the 2 minute mark and it may be the new fuel tank caps just aren't that good as the original ones. Just shooting in the dark.
Great video. I clean the exhaust screen quite regularly on my chains saws and weed eaters. Some models it's hard as the screen is part of the muffler and can't be taken out. Minature wire brushes work here if you can get to the screens. The worst one I have is on a craftsman weed eater engine (which triples as a pole saw and hedge trimmer). The screen was inaccessible, but after warranty period I modified the muffler just enough to be able to get to it with the brush. Gas quality has gone down in recent years, and don't get me started on ethanol gas. I use a Fuel Stabilizer every time I get a new can of gas. :) I change out fuel filters regularly, and change gas lines as needed also. Often solves the starved fuel problem.
You can check for air leaks by spraying all parts that you suspect might be leaking with break cleaner. If a certain part is leaking, the break cleaner wii be drawn into the engine and it’s Will stop immediately. Generally, bogs are caused by a lean setting on the L jet. Just turn it out a half of a turn (CCW) and check again. This will remedy most bogs. If not it is usually a dirty carb. Clean or replace.
Well you have just confirmed what I've always said... And that is, it is amazing how such a small little engine in carburetor can be quite complicated! I did not realize there was approximately 100 different possibilities for why these small engines don't run well! Truly, one of the best and most thorough explanations for one of your engine would bog like that. My weed eater is currently doing this exact same thing. I may give a look at it to see if I can figure it out. Nicely done! Thanks for sharing!
Thank you for the thorough and complete walk through. I am an auto mechanic but I never really knew about 2 cycle motors or what problems exactly I am looking for with my chainsaw. This gives me pretty much all I ever needed to know.
Bogging down was my problem I listed these points and checked through the whole system, After it started first go and snapped it into high rev with no drag Job done Thank you for passing on your knowledge
What a great video! I have my dad's old 1973 Homelite and trying to get it running. But, I know next to nothing about fixing them. It cold starts pretty easily but only runs for less than a minute before shutting down. This video gives me somewhere to start. Thank you.
A most excellent and thorough video. Here in the states ethanol in gasoline greatly decreases shelf life and increases clogging and corrosion in anything with a carburetor. Fortunately in many places non-ethanol can be found, though at a premium. I’ve started using the jug for my gasoline model airplanes for my saws and trimmers to keep things fresh. Model airplanes are generally fueled by a hand crank or electric pump which can be reversed to empty the tank when done. Doing this also seems to help with power tools when they won’t be used for a while.
You are a great teacher. Thank you for explaining cause and effect in such a detailed way. It helps one to know both ends of a problem because it helps you to figure out other problems.
You did an amazing job with this video and I'm very thankful for your help. Your visual diagrams of failure possibilities, and simple fix explanations are just amazing. Thank-you very much!
thank you for the in depth explanation to why chainsaws bog down. I picked up a used chainsaw, it starts and runs GREAT after priming, but after a few seconds bogs down and dies. I've done most everything on your video. All I have is to adjust the fuel/air mixture screws ad inspect the diaphram on the carburetor. I found this carburetor and chainsaw are no longer being produced, but I am still looking for a seal kit. Also, you look and sound like Phil Collins.
You're welcome! I'm happy the clarification was useful to you. It appears that you have taken your time troubleshooting the chainsaw problem. In fact, checking the carburetor diaphragm and adjusting the fuel/air mixture screws are wise next actions. Ideally, a seal kit will be available to assist with any possible leaks or wear in the carburetor. It's admirable that you're committed to maintaining the chainsaw's functionality even though it might not be manufactured any more. Thank you for your contribution to these chats. Thanks Craig
Your videos are an inspiration to learn and work on my own small engine machines. I fixed this chainsaw. I can't believe I fixed it. I still can't figure out why the old carb wouldn't throttle up, but I purchased a new carb for under $20, and put on a new chain. Now I have a very good, clean 38cc chainsaw for around the house use. Thank you again for your instructional videos. Best of luck
I work on several types of Husqvarna saws for the fire service and routinely reference back to your videos when I have a stubborn problem saw. A no stone left unturned approach to problem finding and adjusting systematically . BTW our departments saws are well worn and used hard but generally all start in three pulls and run nice and steady. But when they don't the FFs know to bring it to the fire shop. Thanks for your videos.
This was very informative. I now have many ideas on what to check. My bogging problem used to disappear when the engine warmed up, but now it keeps bogging and I suspect one or more of the items mentioned here. Thank you! 😊
I have this exact issue with my Husky 235 that i ment to use for light work around my garden, and this video gives me confidence to start troubleshooting. Never done any engine repairs before though..Very well explained. Thanks!
I work on small engines as a hobby. And you did one heck of a job explaining everything that could happen everything that could clog up and give you issues. I've had a lot of these issues in the past. Keep up the good videos and I'll keep watching. Very informationable if that's a word. Lol lol😂😂
I've never seen a video that went into more detail. I wish I had you on my last camping trip. My chainsaw wouldn't work at all. Most would have given up (like my wife) and said we don't need a camp fire. No wood cut means no fire. But I broke that chainsaw down into pieces using what tools I had on hand. Pliers and regular screwdriver and a can of WD-40. I had a flat file that I used later to sharpen the teeth on the chain one at a time. But first I had to get it running. I took apart the carb with the tools and sprayed out the passages with the WD-40. Fired right up afterwards and worked the rest of the time. I just wish you were there to save me half a day of learning by trial and error before I figured out exactly what you showed in your video. There is a lot that goes into a chainsaw.
This is THE A to Z of it all. I have one thermal chainsaw and 2 electric ones My Ryobi thermal one has this very problem. So I'm going to go through it fom "most likely cause" onwards. Thank you
This was outstanding. The diagrams and animations helped me wrap my head around this tremendously. I know its not a quick easy thing to put together, so thanks for all this extra time put in.
What a clear, thorough, and easy to understand presentation. Thank you! Here, the most common cause is an ethanol mix left in the system over winter. Which items would then be most suspect - such as the screen in the carburetor? Thanks again!
Thanks. Clearer and more succinct than some helpful videos. My Huskvarna was working fine but failed to stop without choking. It also began to leak fuel. Took it to a dealer for a new stop switch and fuel line. They took it apart, cleaned the carb and bought a new fuel line but didn't fit it. I needed it back so they put all the bits in a box to let me fit it. It eventually started but bogs after a few seconds. Adjusting the idle screw made no difference. Will now try the multiple combinations of high, low and idle screws and report back in the Spring. It's lucky our cars aren't as complex!
VERY Thorough coverage of basically every possible cause of bogging down. Also, good tips on what to look for as the cause. Possibly daunting but hey - go for it and turn into Sherlock Holmes and find the problem!! Thanks for your efforts!!!
Well done!!! You addressed many lean mixture issues. Flooding can be another issue for bogging down. Mine is obvious. I can pour fuel from the intake. It has gotten worse with time and currently will not start. I'll be checking the valve actuated by the diaphragm.
Very glad I came across your Simplified yet Detailed description of carb problems and remedies therein. This is by far the best video I've watched on this subject and I greatly appreciate the fact you took the time to make it. Extremely well done my friend!
I really like how you explain every detail about all the causes that can cause such an annoying situation. Do you have or could you create a video for the opposite situation? What could cause a chainsaw to get too much fuel and stay pinned wide open?
Absolutely correct 💯%. Only thing I do different is I take the exhaust cleaning a step further. I take the muffler off and take a mapp torch to the inside until the whole thing glows orange so that all carbon is completely burned to a dust like substance, let it cool completely, blow out with Compressed air and install it back on the equipment. I start them, let them warm up and do a performance run and normally they run like new unless the fuel system needs fine tuned.
@@TheRepairSpecialist thank you. Yeah I just do that so it cleans up the baffles inside the exhaust because there is small holes inside that can get plugged up and two cycles really need to be able to breathe out to be at their top performance and not over heat the cylinder.
Outstanding video! The training materials are likely from a vocational school and presented by a specialist. A text book presentation, everything that you need to know about the problems! Thank you for educating learners with your expertise!
Wow, thank you for thinking that my material is good enough to have come from a vocational school. In fact though, I put this whole thing together my self in my living room. Your comment is very much appreciated. Thanks again. Craig
this is a very, very clear and usefull video. best instructional video. wish teachers at school were so capable of teaching this much insuch a short time span.
Great explanation for troubleshooting and understanding some of the other possible issues besides the main ones like the spark arrestor. Very well done!
This is probably one of the most thorough videos on this subject. Fantastic explanations and visual examples. I would add a couple points. The impulse from the crank can also be the cause, both in the manifold style mount in the video and on units with a separate impulse line. Leaky impulse lines can be found with the crank pressure test as well. Also of note is that crank case air leaks typically cause the engine to take longer than normal to come back down to idle, as well as bogging. Just a quick way to know where you’re more likely for find the issue when you’re diagnosing.
What a brilliant explanation I really admire all the work effort and years of experience upon which you base this. It has made my mind up to get an electric saw as I see all these problems and wonder how my saw ever worked.
Adding time and another 👍 while having my coffee. Haven't used an ultrasound yet But saved a few carburetors by boiling them in soapy water. This method also helps me keep the yard tidy burning twigs & fallen branches LOL. Most of the blockages I run into are at the screen. Some very neglected units have the other issues you are describing. Your diagrams & explanation are very well done. Stay safe, Joe Z
Yes. I agree that the screen is a common area for these types of carb to show blockage. Thank you for your comment and feedback. I appreciate it. Craig 👍
Great vid. Last but not least, someone worked on it before you got to it. Check that replacement parts are the correct one and verify all gaps and adjustments. Don't trust the last guys work. Feul/oil mix ratios need to be right, sometimes people use whatever they used in another engine and it may be way off from what it should be.
After watching this I would never attempt to fix this problem myself. There seems to be just so many things that can go wrong. This is a good ad to take it to a professional.
shop rates in my area run $85 USD / hour. My way of thinking is you can't break broken. Yes the first time can be daunting, but if you take note of what The Repair Specialist says in this video, you'd probably have success. Most the time you won't need to be concerned with all the nuances that he goes into every little thing which MIGHT be wrong. Worst case you end up taking it to the repair shop in a basket case.
You nailed the explanations. I have repaired enough small engines to have encountered all these things so agree with you completely. The most common problem I encounter is Carby adjustment ( after ensuring the air filter is clean) and poor fuel mix. I forever find people that add an extra dash of oil to their mix but that just makes it oil up and not run right. I have found that the ideal is to use recommended mix. I have also found that if you want to go with one mix for everything you can get away with 25:1 and use motorbike two stroke oil as it is low ash and will tend to burn off the spark plug better. It's worth noting that an air filter effects the mixture in a significant way. You can remove and clean a filter but it may still not be free flowing. Also the air filter should be on the engine when adjusting the carb. I once had a Stihl chainsaw that was almost impossible to start. I changed the air filter and it was fixed. Interestingly it was also impossible to start without a filter fitted. Lesson learnt and remembered. That shows the importantance of air/fuel ratios. Your video pretty well covered most things that happen in real life with these engines. Thanks for sharing it.
@@codetech55981: the air filter will start to block up. Even if it's cleaned it won't be as good as a new one. 2: the fuel oil mix will be incorrect so it will burn at a different rate 3: things wear out and change. Jets, pistons, exhaust carbon buildup. 4: those if the big one. When it's but running correctly someone decides they can adjust it. They do it wrong. Then you are just going around in circles. First of all understand what you are doing and why. Then do what is needed. Don't just start turning high and low speed mixture screws thinking you will get it right. Sometimes things are just worn out too. Everything has a service life. Vibrating jet screws it if position is not common. People adjusting them is
@@lynpatnat If people adjusted the screws and then it didn't work they would know they broke it and what the problem was. I have Stil MS 180 that is 15 years old. I was thinking of just buying a new carb but they seem to be suspiciously low cost and made in China. Are they any good?
@@codetech5598 I would think that they will be much the same as the original. Maybe the diaphragm and other rubber parts won't be as good but they seem to work on everything else that seems to come from China ( that seems to be everything) so it's worth a try. Don't throw out your old one and perhaps out a kit through it at some stage so you can swap it back. There are so many TH-cam videos of how to overhaul the carbs. There is a small mesh screen that can get blocked, the diaphragm can be hard so won't flex or may leak so that can all alter mixture. I'm sure there's days even Stihl parts are made in China. I bought a group of parts for a av38 magnum and it included Carby. I have never used it but it looks very well made. To me it looks exactly like the original. Just don't throw your old one away.
@@lynpatnat My point is that for the price of just the gaskets from a Stil dealer, I could get a new carburetor plus gaskets plus rubber hoses (including the chain oil hose) plus a spark plug and other stuff. ($14 for the parts kit including shipping.)
Hi guys I just wanted to Introduce to you my other Channel "Kirkman's Academy" - which i'm just getting started. It's a go-to channel for simple explanations for hard to grasp subjects such as physics, maths and chemistry etc. Here is the link: www.youtube.com/@kirkmansacademy/videos . Thank you so much for looking, and if these topics interest you then I hope to see you the there. Many thanks indeed. Craig 😊👍
This is quite possibly the single most valuable diagnostic video I have ever seen.
Wow. Thank you 👍👍👍
Agreed
Having worked on plant and small engines for years this truly imparts years of experience to those hungry to learn. Well done.
I have been in the small engine repair business for a few years. One can never get tired of watching these videos. This one is well done and one of the better by far videos out here on the net. This is a must watch video for any up comer in small engine repair. Thanks for this video.
Thank you very much! I really appreciate your kind and motivating feedback. Craig
Hi Guys. I meant to mention in the video that the High Jet is usually NOT separate from the main Jet, as in the video I have shown them as separate. Usually, the High Jet adjustment Screw simply adjusts the amount of fuel that comes out of the main Jet itself. I have shown the Main Jet as separate in this video just to try and explain a principle of how Jets and their adjustment screws work. I hope this makes things clear rather than more complex. I'm really Sorry if it has. Also, another thing I should have mentioned is that the examples I have shown are mainly based around a lack of fuel getting to the engine as a cause of engine bog. Of course, too much fuel getting to the engine can also cause the engine to die as well. I will make a future video showing this. Again apologies for not mentioning this. I really appreciate you taking the time to look at my videos. Craig
Loved the video, Craig. You explain things very well!
Nice detailed video Craig explaining how these little carbs work
Have you made the video about running rich yet?
I'm more of a "Visual" type person, and your diagrams help take the mystery out of those tiny little carbs. Thanks!
Me to tinker.,
Comprehensive, clear, informative and free of glitz and spin. First class!
Much appreciated! Thank you
I’ve watched a lot of chainsaw tuning videos, and this is by far the best. Most videos tackle the bogging issue from one possibility only like, “your chainsaw is bogging because your mixture screws need adjustment”. You cover all the possibilities and you do it quickly and concisely without wasting time. Basically as close to a perfect video as possible. Thanks so much for making it.
I've seen some good video's about small engine repairs but I must say this video is tops. I;m a retired Loco maintainer/Motor mechanic so I understand the detailed processes you have covered. Well done.
I have to agree his detailed explanations and diagrams are so clear and concise and not missing any critical information.. cheers to him for this ! this was a great help in my repairs of my homelite xl..
For sure I'm not totally ignorant to engines but I was trying to rebuild a poulan that had sit for 3 years in pieces... this guy taught me alot.
You've put a lot of work into this. I wish this information was so readily available fifty years ago. Your information is greatly appreciated. Thank you.
The most information I have gathered to date from any class or video on the function of the mysterious little parts inside the carburetor of a chain saw. Well done!
Your info and tuition has taken me from zero capability to a point where I rarely fail to fix a machine , just a hobby really but I have become a really popular person :) and its very satisfying for a retired engineer to still do a bit of ' fettling' .
That’s awesome news. Thank you for your very kind feedback. It’s comments like yours that make all the work on the channel worth while. Craig 👍👍👍👍👍
Brilliant tuition! Really appreciate the rapid pace, synced diagrams and complete lack of stupid asides in the commentary.
Bravo.
Subbed and passed on.
Thank you for your kind words and feedback. I really do appreciate it. Craig 👍👍👍
Best explanation of basic, small engine function I've ever seen! Thanks.
Thank you for your kind and motivating feedback. I really appreciate it. Craig 👍👍👍
I saw a chainsaw for only $35 listed in an estate sale ad, so I bought it and all it needed was a bit of air/fuel adjustment. Thank you! I'm so happy. Amazing video. I found myself watching, even after I fixed my problem.
Wow, what a great find at the estate sale! It's always exciting to stumble upon a bargain, especially when it turns out to be something as useful as a chainsaw. It's fantastic to hear that all it needed was a simple adjustment to get it up and running smoothly again. There's something incredibly satisfying about being able to fix a problem and bring a piece of equipment back to life. I'm thrilled that the video was helpful to you, even after you'd solved your issue. It's wonderful to know that the content continues to be useful and engaging. Happy sawing, and may your chainsaw serve you well for many projects to come!
Craig
You are extremely thorough, with great illustrations and a wonderful way of explaining things. Much more thorough than our tech teacher back in the 1970's. Thank you.
Thank you so much for your kind and encouraging feedback. I really appreciate it. Craig 👍👍👍
That was by far the best carb-chainsaw related explanation and in-depth video I’ve come across. Thank you. I’ll be passing this one onto a friend, who’s MS391 starts ok but just won’t keep running. No matter the fuel or how much he adjusts the jets.
Excellent video. I had a broken tube from the crank case to the top of the carb. ( Sort of a PCV system ). It was causing a severe lean condition. Replaced the tube and all is well. I had forgotten the 2 stroke intake procedure into the crankcase first to lube the engine. The excellent crankcase section of your video jogged my memory on 2 cyc operation. Thanks Ed.
Nice work! And thank you so much for the kind feedback. Craig
Unbelievable content, I hope this is archived for eternity.
This is definitely the most complete and detailed video for any 2 smoke mechanic or apprentice.
I'm so glad i came across your channel this year. I feel like i'm doing in class learning with a teacher right in front of me. Every video is very well explained that anyone can comprehend and also down to details like no other with lots of pictures/images and parts of what you're explaining. I love the fact that after watching a video i don't feel like second guessing myself. Thank you for taking the time to do this and share it. Excellent work, keep it up!
Marco Palmigiani - Ontario, Canada 🇨🇦
Man now every thing about fuel flow come to my sense, you even cover about carburetor. Thankyou good sir. It's the simplest way you could teach amateur to come to a good understanding about this
An excellent video. A couple of comments that are important details not covered: The High & Low mixture screws are shown being tightened shut. I've never had a problem myself but have heard that damage can be caused if these screws are over tightened. Also, after they've been removed for cleaning the tubes (I prefer to use carb cleaner personally, rather than an air line) and replaced, they need to be set to a level where the engine has a chance of running initially before fine tuning. I set the screws at around one and a quarter turns out. I love the clear diagrams used - a picture tells a thousand words.
Thank you 👍
This is one of the best videos I have seen on a two cycle fuel system! Every well done with common problems found. Thank you for putting this together.
Thank you so much
This guy making this video is so knowledgeable, I do say, it be easy to believe he’s the engineer who designed and had it manufactured. What a pleasure to listen and learn from a true expert. BRAVO!!!
Video well done, too!
Wow, thanks! That’s some really nice feedback. Thank you so much. Craig
Excellent video, You have definitely solved all my chainsaw bogging problems. I know now that if my saw starts to bog down, find the nearest skip, and chuck it in, then buy myself a lovely new chainsaw. Problem sorted. LOL.
Best video content for small engine diagnostics that I have seen on TH-cam. Thanks thanks thanks. 😊
A very complete video covering all of the possible errors. Thanks.
You're welcome! Thank you so much. Craig 👍👍👍
I want you to know that I really appreciate your lesson. Plus, your illustrations and explaining each element of a carb's function is great.
Thank you so much for your very kind and encouraging comment. i really appreciate it. Craig
At 68, retired, with chainsaws and weed wackers, powerwashers and tillers, thanks for the BEST education videos I have ever seen! Subscribed and Liked!
Wow. This is some of best feedback i have ever had. Thank you so much for taking the time to write this. Craig 👍👍👍
Excellent video.
My son almost had me convinced that I had burned the clutch out but I'm a little older, a little wiser, more patience.
Thank You for this valuable information.
Keep them coming 😃
I am surprised to learn of the complexity of a small carburetor on a garden tool. It's a world inside a world and your videos are the most informative of all I have seen yet.
Thank you very much! 👍👍
Great video. I have three Homelite yard tools all with 20cc engines. They lasted for over 10-years before I started having carburetor problems. Several times I've replaced the carburetors with new ones from Amazon. But these new ones only lasted one to two years. I then started doing overhauls on the original carburetor with new gaskets, diaphragm, metering device, etc. Now it runs great with good throttle response but only for about 10-minutes until it warms up. Then I get the bog down. It comes on gradually and I first notice it due to delayed throttle response that eventually turns to the bog down happening at lower and lower rpm until stall. After it cools it runs again. On my string trimmer I replaced all the parts other than the valve as none of the kits have the correct length replacement. This includes the primer bulb, filter screen, metering diaphragm, metering spring, metering anvil, pivot shaft, gas cap, gas tank, gas tank pickup filter, gas lines, and carburetor to manifold gasket. And the gradually bog down to stall when warmed up still happens. Any ideas what might be the issue?
Have you completely excluded fuel venting malfunction? Crack open the fuel cap when symptoms start and if they go away, there's your problem. This is covered around the 2 minute mark and it may be the new fuel tank caps just aren't that good as the original ones. Just shooting in the dark.
Great video. I clean the exhaust screen quite regularly on my chains saws and weed eaters. Some models it's hard as the screen is part of the muffler and can't be taken out. Minature wire brushes work here if you can get to the screens. The worst one I have is on a craftsman weed eater engine (which triples as a pole saw and hedge trimmer). The screen was inaccessible, but after warranty period I modified the muffler just enough to be able to get to it with the brush.
Gas quality has gone down in recent years, and don't get me started on ethanol gas. I use a Fuel Stabilizer every time I get a new can of gas. :)
I change out fuel filters regularly, and change gas lines as needed also. Often solves the starved fuel problem.
You can check for air leaks by spraying all parts that you suspect might be leaking with break cleaner. If a certain part is leaking, the break cleaner wii be drawn into the engine and it’s Will stop immediately. Generally, bogs are caused by a lean setting on the L jet. Just turn it out a half of a turn (CCW) and check again. This will remedy most bogs. If not it is usually a dirty carb. Clean or replace.
Yes. Great Points. Thank you for commenting. Craig 👍
Well worth 17 minutes. I understand so much more about chainsaw carburetors now. I'm bookmarking this video for sure. Thanks.
Well you have just confirmed what I've always said... And that is, it is amazing how such a small little engine in carburetor can be quite complicated! I did not realize there was approximately 100 different possibilities for why these small engines don't run well! Truly, one of the best and most thorough explanations for one of your engine would bog like that. My weed eater is currently doing this exact same thing. I may give a look at it to see if I can figure it out. Nicely done! Thanks for sharing!
Thank you so much for you feedback. Craig 👍👍
Thank you for the thorough and complete walk through. I am an auto mechanic but I never really knew about 2 cycle motors or what problems exactly I am looking for with my chainsaw. This gives me pretty much all I ever needed to know.
Bogging down was my problem I listed these points and checked through the whole system, After it started first go and snapped it into high rev with no drag Job done Thank you for passing on your knowledge
Awesome. Thank you for letting me know. 👍👍👍
What a great video!
I have my dad's old 1973 Homelite and trying to get it running.
But, I know next to nothing about fixing them.
It cold starts pretty easily but only runs for less than a minute before shutting down.
This video gives me somewhere to start.
Thank you.
A most excellent and thorough video. Here in the states ethanol in gasoline greatly decreases shelf life and increases clogging and corrosion in anything with a carburetor. Fortunately in many places non-ethanol can be found, though at a premium. I’ve started using the jug for my gasoline model airplanes for my saws and trimmers to keep things fresh. Model airplanes are generally fueled by a hand crank or electric pump which can be reversed to empty the tank when done. Doing this also seems to help with power tools when they won’t be used for a while.
You are a great teacher. Thank you for explaining cause and effect in such a detailed way. It helps one to know both ends of a problem because it helps you to figure out other problems.
You did an amazing job with this video and I'm very thankful for your help. Your visual diagrams of failure possibilities, and simple fix explanations are just amazing. Thank-you very much!
Thank you so much for your kind and motivating feedback. I really appreciate it. Craig 👍👍👍
Nice. A comprehensive checklist of common/easy to next level troubleshooting. This is a keeper.
thank you for the in depth explanation to why chainsaws bog down. I picked up a used chainsaw, it starts and runs GREAT after priming, but after a few seconds bogs down and dies. I've done most everything on your video. All I have is to adjust the fuel/air mixture screws ad inspect the diaphram on the carburetor. I found this carburetor and chainsaw are no longer being produced, but I am still looking for a seal kit. Also, you look and sound like Phil Collins.
You're welcome! I'm happy the clarification was useful to you. It appears that you have taken your time troubleshooting the chainsaw problem. In fact, checking the carburetor diaphragm and adjusting the fuel/air mixture screws are wise next actions. Ideally, a seal kit will be available to assist with any possible leaks or wear in the carburetor. It's admirable that you're committed to maintaining the chainsaw's functionality even though it might not be manufactured any more. Thank you for your contribution to these chats.
Thanks
Craig
Your videos are an inspiration to learn and work on my own small engine machines. I fixed this chainsaw. I can't believe I fixed it. I still can't figure out why the old carb wouldn't throttle up, but I purchased a new carb for under $20, and put on a new chain. Now I have a very good, clean 38cc chainsaw for around the house use. Thank you again for your instructional videos. Best of luck
I work on several types of Husqvarna saws for the fire service and routinely reference back to your videos when I have a stubborn problem saw. A no stone left unturned approach to problem finding and adjusting systematically . BTW our departments saws are well worn and used hard but generally all start in three pulls and run nice and steady. But when they don't the FFs know to bring it to the fire shop. Thanks for your videos.
That is awesome! Thank you for taking the time to let me know. You’ve made my day. Craig 👍👍👍
Excellent video I have a bogging issue with my line trimmer which no mechanic can rectify
This video is definitely food for thought thank you
One of your best videos yet! I don’t know how I missed this one but I’m just seeing it now.
Wow, thanks!
Excellent video! As a fellow mechanic (automotive & aircraft), you did a superb job of explaining the why and how. Good job!
This was very informative. I now have many ideas on what to check. My bogging problem used to disappear when the engine warmed up, but now it keeps bogging and I suspect one or more of the items mentioned here. Thank you!
😊
I have this exact issue with my Husky 235 that i ment to use for light work around my garden, and this video gives me confidence to start troubleshooting. Never done any engine repairs before though..Very well explained. Thanks!
You covered every possible scenario in a way that makes total sense! Thank you
I work on small engines as a hobby. And you did one heck of a job explaining everything that could happen everything that could clog up and give you issues. I've had a lot of these issues in the past. Keep up the good videos and I'll keep watching. Very informationable if that's a word. Lol lol😂😂
I've never seen a video that went into more detail. I wish I had you on my last camping trip.
My chainsaw wouldn't work at all. Most would have given up (like my wife) and said we don't need a camp fire. No wood cut means no fire. But I broke that chainsaw down into pieces using what tools I had on hand. Pliers and regular screwdriver and a can of WD-40. I had a flat file that I used later to sharpen the teeth on the chain one at a time. But first I had to get it running. I took apart the carb with the tools and sprayed out the passages with the WD-40. Fired right up afterwards and worked the rest of the time. I just wish you were there to save me half a day of learning by trial and error before I figured out exactly what you showed in your video. There is a lot that goes into a chainsaw.
Well at least you went into the problem and found out loads using your own initiative. That’s awesome. Thanks for commenting. Craig 👍👍👍👍
This is THE A to Z of it all.
I have one thermal chainsaw and 2 electric ones
My Ryobi thermal one has this very problem. So I'm going to go through it fom "most likely cause" onwards.
Thank you
This was outstanding. The diagrams and animations helped me wrap my head around this tremendously. I know its not a quick easy thing to put together, so thanks for all this extra time put in.
Excellent instructional video! I have never seen one like this before! You explained it to detail and easy to understand! Kudos to you!
Thank you so much 👍👍👍👍👍
What a clear, thorough, and easy to understand presentation. Thank you! Here, the most common cause is an ethanol mix left in the system over winter. Which items would then be most suspect - such as the screen in the carburetor? Thanks again!
Clear, comprehensive, thorough and well made - thanks a lot! Kind regards from Denmark.
Thank you. I really appreciate your kind feedback. Craig
I appreciate the fantastic tutorial on the chainsaw carburetor parts/mechanisms. This should help me diagnose the ills of this saw.
Thanks. Clearer and more succinct than some helpful videos. My Huskvarna was working fine but failed to stop without choking. It also began to leak fuel. Took it to a dealer for a new stop switch and fuel line. They took it apart, cleaned the carb and bought a new fuel line but didn't fit it. I needed it back so they put all the bits in a box to let me fit it. It eventually started but bogs after a few seconds. Adjusting the idle screw made no difference. Will now try the multiple combinations of high, low and idle screws and report back in the Spring. It's lucky our cars aren't as complex!
Wow! Excellent description. Now I have more knowledge than just adjust the high, low, idle screws. Thanks
best video I've seen yet on carburetor trouble-shooting, etc. Bravo and thank you.
Wow, thanks! 👍👍👍
VERY Thorough coverage of basically every possible cause of bogging down. Also, good tips on what to look for as the cause. Possibly daunting but hey - go for it and turn into Sherlock Holmes and find the problem!! Thanks for your efforts!!!
All Episodes -for 2-Stroke Carburetors Here. Thanks. Craig:
th-cam.com/play/PLrlXp3PlwgRI5OLvm3P91LJr1CYnO5TRD.html
Very informative. Explains everything to the fullest. I would advise anyone to watch this video.👍
Fun and good vibes fantastic job.
What I needed.
Well done!!! You addressed many lean mixture issues. Flooding can be another issue for bogging down. Mine is obvious. I can pour fuel from the intake. It has gotten worse with time and currently will not start. I'll be checking the valve actuated by the diaphragm.
I see you mention that in a comment you left.
Thank you for your feedback. I really appreciate it. Craig 👍👍
Great...the problem precisely! In 35 years I've never cleared the fuel cap vent. Fixed! Thank you. K
Thank you for your awesome comment. I really do appreciate it. Craig 👍
Bro this is likely best video on issues i ever saw.. and i have watched probably half a million no bs
Thank you so much 👍👍👍
Very glad I came across your Simplified yet Detailed description of carb problems and remedies therein.
This is by far the best video I've watched on this subject and I greatly appreciate the fact you took the time to make it.
Extremely well done my friend!
I really like how you explain every detail about all the causes that can cause such an annoying situation. Do you have or could you create a video for the opposite situation? What could cause a chainsaw to get too much fuel and stay pinned wide open?
Absolutely correct 💯%. Only thing I do different is I take the exhaust cleaning a step further. I take the muffler off and take a mapp torch to the inside until the whole thing glows orange so that all carbon is completely burned to a dust like substance, let it cool completely, blow out with Compressed air and install it back on the equipment. I start them, let them warm up and do a performance run and normally they run like new unless the fuel system needs fine tuned.
Awesome 👍👍
@@TheRepairSpecialist thank you. Yeah I just do that so it cleans up the baffles inside the exhaust because there is small holes inside that can get plugged up and two cycles really need to be able to breathe out to be at their top performance and not over heat the cylinder.
Recently watched two of your video's on carbs. My friend, the best two video's ive have had the pleasure of viewing. Thanks.
Thank you so much 👍👍👍
Outstanding video! The training materials are likely from a vocational school and presented by a specialist. A text book presentation, everything that you need to know about the problems! Thank you for educating learners with your expertise!
Wow, thank you for thinking that my material is good enough to have come from a vocational school. In fact though, I put this whole thing together my self in my living room. Your comment is very much appreciated. Thanks again. Craig
Mate that was a brilliant tutorial. You covered every aspect with great detail. Excellent job👏🏻👏🏻
Thank you so much. I really appreciate it. Craig 👍👍👍
You covered so many aspects that could cause bog down. Very thorough and explained well. Thank you!
Thank you for your nice feedback. I really appreciate it. Thanks again. Craig 👍👍
The best instructional videos on you tube bar none. Keep up the great work 👍🇦🇺
Your tutorial is spot on and very explanatory..you do this so well TRS..Thankyou so much, what an expert you are... thanks again...
your information about two stroke maschines are fantastic. Since I follow I could repair many chainsaws much more effectiv. Many thanks
Thank you so much for your kind feedback. It’s comments like yours that motivate me to continue making these videos. Thanks again. Craig
These are the best repair videos I have ever seen
Wow, thank you. I really appreciate it. Craig
Best video I've ever seen on two-stroke carburetors
thanks for this comprehesive review of areas to check when experiencing bog down.
this is a very, very clear and usefull video. best instructional video. wish teachers at school were so capable of teaching this much insuch a short time span.
Wow, talk about all inclusive. This man obviously knows small engines. Well done!
Thank you for the great comment. I really appreciate it. Craig 👍👍👍👍
Great explanation for troubleshooting and understanding some of the other possible issues besides the main ones like the spark arrestor. Very well done!
Best small engine video that I have seen to date. Thank you from Canada.
Wow, thanks! I really appreciate your awesome feedback. Craig 👍👍👍
This is probably one of the most thorough videos on this subject. Fantastic explanations and visual examples. I would add a couple points. The impulse from the crank can also be the cause, both in the manifold style mount in the video and on units with a separate impulse line. Leaky impulse lines can be found with the crank pressure test as well.
Also of note is that crank case air leaks typically cause the engine to take longer than normal to come back down to idle, as well as bogging. Just a quick way to know where you’re more likely for find the issue when you’re diagnosing.
Awesome feedback and thank you for including you points as well. Craig 👍👍👍
hello there,i live in MADEIRA and watch your videos all the time ,keep them up, they are very helpful ,please don`t stop.and many thanks.
I'm getting ready too work on my Stihl o18C . I will go through my carberator with this video again. I've learned quite a bit!
U went step by step u covered all the areas. Great work.
What a brilliant explanation I really admire all the work effort and years of experience upon which you base this. It has made my mind up to get an electric saw as I see all these problems and wonder how my saw ever worked.
Really very clear and useful. Only a Brit ( Northern) could be so concise and jargon free!
Thank you. Craig
Adding time and another 👍 while having my coffee. Haven't used an ultrasound yet But saved a few carburetors by boiling them in soapy water. This method also helps me keep the yard tidy burning twigs & fallen branches LOL. Most of the blockages I run into are at the screen. Some very neglected units have the other issues you are describing. Your diagrams & explanation are very well done.
Stay safe, Joe Z
Yes. I agree that the screen is a common area for these types of carb to show blockage. Thank you for your comment and feedback. I appreciate it. Craig 👍
👌
Great vid. Last but not least, someone worked on it before you got to it. Check that replacement parts are the correct one and verify all gaps and adjustments. Don't trust the last guys work. Feul/oil mix ratios need to be right, sometimes people use whatever they used in another engine and it may be way off from what it should be.
Absolutely. You are dam right. I should have mentioned that in the vid. Thank you for your valued input. I really appreciate it. Craig 👍👍👍
U did a good job on this video u explain everything that could go wrong and it has alot of small screws and springs very well done
Thank you so much
WELL DONE !!! VERY THROUGH......BLESS YOUR HEART FOR TAKING THE TIME TO TEACH......JOHN
Thank you John for your awesome feedback. I really appreciate comments like yours that give motivation to keep making these videos. Craig 👍👍👍
Your the best, you clearly explaine everything thoroughly. This has helped me understand, and I will be watching all your videos.
Awesome, thank you!
After watching this I would never attempt to fix this problem myself. There seems to be just so many things that can go wrong. This is a good ad to take it to a professional.
Ok. Go get it fixed!!
shop rates in my area run $85 USD / hour. My way of thinking is you can't break broken. Yes the first time can be daunting, but if you take note of what The Repair Specialist says in this video, you'd probably have success. Most the time you won't need to be concerned with all the nuances that he goes into every little thing which MIGHT be wrong. Worst case you end up taking it to the repair shop in a basket case.
@@markbaker1843 new carburetors usually cost less than one hour of labor
Another great video on the problems one can encounter with a 2 stroke chainsaw. Thanks for the information.
You make great videos! You're very informative and thorough but you don't drag on and take forever to explain things. Keep making videos!
Thank you for your nice feedback. I really appreciate it. Craig 👍
Best graphic diagrams I’ve ever seen. Also extremely good explanations for those diagrams.
You nailed the explanations. I have repaired enough small engines to have encountered all these things so agree with you completely.
The most common problem I encounter is Carby adjustment ( after ensuring the air filter is clean) and poor fuel mix.
I forever find people that add an extra dash of oil to their mix but that just makes it oil up and not run right.
I have found that the ideal is to use recommended mix.
I have also found that if you want to go with one mix for everything you can get away with 25:1 and use motorbike two stroke oil as it is low ash and will tend to burn off the spark plug better.
It's worth noting that an air filter effects the mixture in a significant way. You can remove and clean a filter but it may still not be free flowing. Also the air filter should be on the engine when adjusting the carb. I once had a Stihl chainsaw that was almost impossible to start. I changed the air filter and it was fixed. Interestingly it was also impossible to start without a filter fitted. Lesson learnt and remembered. That shows the importantance of air/fuel ratios.
Your video pretty well covered most things that happen in real life with these engines.
Thanks for sharing it.
_"The most common problem I encounter is Carby adjustment."_ How does the carburetor get out of adjustment?
@@codetech55981: the air filter will start to block up. Even if it's cleaned it won't be as good as a new one. 2: the fuel oil mix will be incorrect so it will burn at a different rate 3: things wear out and change. Jets, pistons, exhaust carbon buildup. 4: those if the big one. When it's but running correctly someone decides they can adjust it. They do it wrong. Then you are just going around in circles. First of all understand what you are doing and why. Then do what is needed. Don't just start turning high and low speed mixture screws thinking you will get it right.
Sometimes things are just worn out too. Everything has a service life.
Vibrating jet screws it if position is not common. People adjusting them is
@@lynpatnat If people adjusted the screws and then it didn't work they would know they broke it and what the problem was.
I have Stil MS 180 that is 15 years old. I was thinking of just buying a new carb but they seem to be suspiciously low cost and made in China. Are they any good?
@@codetech5598 I would think that they will be much the same as the original. Maybe the diaphragm and other rubber parts won't be as good but they seem to work on everything else that seems to come from China ( that seems to be everything) so it's worth a try. Don't throw out your old one and perhaps out a kit through it at some stage so you can swap it back.
There are so many TH-cam videos of how to overhaul the carbs. There is a small mesh screen that can get blocked, the diaphragm can be hard so won't flex or may leak so that can all alter mixture.
I'm sure there's days even Stihl parts are made in China. I bought a group of parts for a av38 magnum and it included Carby. I have never used it but it looks very well made. To me it looks exactly like the original.
Just don't throw your old one away.
@@lynpatnat My point is that for the price of just the gaskets from a Stil dealer, I could get a new carburetor plus gaskets plus rubber hoses (including the chain oil hose) plus a spark plug and other stuff. ($14 for the parts kit including shipping.)