By far, one of the most informative videos on chainsaw troubleshooting I've viewed. I am experiencing this problem on an 029 that is 30+ years old, and it's been a bit frustrating. I've worked everything but the carb, and that is now on the agenda. This video gave me a great heads up on how to proceed. Thank you.
I have an 025 purchased new back in 1997 Aside from a chain replacement or two, the only other issue i had was with a cracked / leaking fuel line. I also bought a FarmBoss w/ 20" bar last year for some very large Copper Beech and Cherry trees that needed cut up on the property here. Great saws, great Brand.
My main saw is still an old homelite 330. Cleaned the carb, replaced the intake boot, and it’s still putting in work. My backup is an even older Xl-12 that needed even less
Holy crap... I have an 023 doing exactly the same thing !!!!! It's till the original carb with no rebuilds ever, so, yeah, I'll try a rebuild on it or a new one. It's had 30 years of hard use but I don't want to replace it just yet. It's been a great runner and has cut hundreds of cords....Still starts right up and cuts great but won't stay running on idle no matter how it's adjusted.
I have an 017. Be mindful of the gas line. Mine had a hole in the gas line in the tank so it was sucking some air. It took me a while to find that trouble. She’s running and cutting great now! You have to order and replace with the right molded gas line for your saw.
I bought an used Stihl 025 model (16'' bar) about 15 years ago. As a homeowner with a big wooded yard I use it every year, trimming branches and cutting firewood. For the first time this year the saw started to stall after 10 minutes. And for the first time I decided to bring it to a repair shop for maintenance. They replaced the coil and overhauled the carb ($$). Even after this the problem remained. Next recourse: check out some TH-cam channels. This helped me locate the problem: it was simply the clogged air vent. On your video it's the black plastic vertical tube located to the left of of the carburetor, seen here at 7:54. Mine, possibly a homemade fix, has a small screw inserted at each end. Removed the screws and pushed air into the tube. Now the saw is running smoothly again. Your insight is greatly appreciated.
My grandpa bought a ms180 in 2008, used it for a few years to make firewood, then the saw suddenly stopped starting so it was left in the garage for around 8 years. So one day I’m doing some work and I found the chainsaw, asked my grandpa about it. He told me that it doesn’t start so I gave it a shot. Cleaned the carburetor, filters, bought a new spark plug and it works like a charm. I still have it and use it to this day and I believe that the one I have is better than the new one.
Rebuilt mine 1/2 a year ago in Australia, mine needed new crankshaft seals that are a thicker design - it is a German made version. Carb is 1 turn out low & High with Low needing another 1/4 out for the middle sweet spot. Recently, I've had carburettor check valve failure & blockage in low idle circuit that needed cleaning. Impressive the cylinder & piston /rings were /are like new. So very impressive for its age & yes compression & power it has got. Ideal home owner saw as I've done larger jobs it wasn't designed for 😅
Hello, On your advice and detailed knowledge from your video, I took the carb off my malfunctioning 1998 STIHL Model 036 PRO, yesterday. My carb wouldn't come off until I removed the upper half of the handle that hold the safety and the trigger assy. If you go to your video at 12.03 [the Diaphragm]. I'm pretty sure I put that back upside down. However, Skeptical. When I put the thing back together...The machine started right up and ran and operated perfectly. Thank you so much. I could not have done it without your detailed video. A+ A+ A+ Thank you, Chris SE PA USA
Easiest way to remove the choke linkage is to push the choke in on the carb and sliding the linkage to the left. It slides right out. The parts for the 021, 023 and 025 are still being made because Stihl still makes the MS 250 (the newer version of the 025). I have an MS 250, MS 170, Stihl 039 and a Stihl 026. I don't like the newer 1 models. They went the way that Husqvarna did on their saws. Over engineered with a bunch of little bits of plastic that if you were to remove, you'd have to get a new part.
Hello there Really useful video - thank you. Can you detail what degreaser / mix you use in this video? It's doing a great job of clearing the gunk off everything!
Thank you. I have a 025 stihl also. I had a problem of it constantly stalling. The repair shop suggested putting a new engine in, which I did. I still had the same problem of it running and then stalling out. None of the shops could fix it. After the new engine was installed I only used True Fuel from the store. I was moving back to Florida so I emptied all the chain oil out and all the fuel. Tried to start the engine to ensure all the fuel was gone. I then stored it away. After several years I put a small amount of fuel in and some chain oil and she started right up. When I went to cut a pine tree she stalled. I havent been able to get it started since. After watching your video and another (about cleaning the valve? That allows air into the fuel tank). I will also use your video to take apart and clean the carburator (i think you put the carburater in carb cleaner then turned on your sonic cleaner?)
Very good and clear video. Like your channel. I have a old 023 and problem is that after i run it for 15 minutes and try to restart........nothing. Always starts and run well. Would appreciate some advice. Thank you
sure, when it happens again, try take off the air filter and dropping in some fuel into the carb, If it starts back up and runs, it's a carb issue and you can decide what to do
Equipment was manufactured better years ago. No matter what brand, stick with your original equipment as long as possible. This means actually taking care of the equipment as per manufacturers recommendations. New items are made cheaper and cost cutting shows eventually. Parts are the only issue for older models both in cost and availability. Oldie but Goodie still rules, just as we all age!!
Thank you for your videos. I’ve learned a great deal from you. I recently started working for a tree cutting company. We have a saw that starts and runs but shuts off when we turn it on its side to make the cut. Any suggestions. Thanks again
sure, check and make sure there's enough fuel line in the tank. IF that's good then check and make sure the tank vent is working like it should. after that's its a gasket issue.
Quick question, I’m working with. Stihl 020T. I have the oil reservoir emptied out while I try to get it running correctly so I don’t have oil dripping out. My question is could having the oil reservoir empty prevent the saw from running correctly? I noticed you mentioned having oil in the saw. I don’t have the bar on right now so I don’t need oil. Thanks for your help in advance.
I got a similar saw, the Stihl 023, its almost the same, i dont know what the difernce would be..... I would like to know how many gasquets got on the mufler and how they are asembly. I taked it a part yesterday and i might lost 1 gasket or: is there only one gasket between the mufler ans shild? Or are there other gasket betwin the shild and the piston chamber? Thanks
I have a Stihl ms 250. I have had it probably 20years. worked fine when I put it up a year or so again. I think I ran it dry. now it starts but won" but won"t run. here is what I have done. put new carb kit in it, replaced the wiring, replaced air filter, replaced coil with new aftermarket-did"t help, put oem back in. cleaned spark arrestor, replaced with new 89 octane gas and oil. new spark plug. tore carburetor down and put in ultrasonic cleaner for over an hour twice. it still sounds like it is starving for fuel. I am at Witts end. this is a great saw. I have to fix it.
Thank you for this video. Although what the heck is a sonic cleaner? No haven't googled it in just lazy haha. Great video though. Straight to the point with good camera work👍
not sure if you've seen it, but it's an container that has ultra sonic transducers under it. you fill it with water or cleaner and put whatever you want to clean. Most use them for jewelry, but carbs work too.
Loved your presentation! I am a Stihl Tec. at a local hardware store. I want to know what one earth you cleaned that saw with? That stuff is great! I hate repairing a dirty saw! LOL had one some weeks ago that was so dirty that the customer couldn't turn the saw OFF. That much grim and oil was keeping the stop switch from making contact;. (Charged him what I call; "stupid tax" for not maintaining his saw. Just want to know that cleaner so I can get some, thanks.
I contacted u about my Poulan Pro riding mower model:pp20va46- would not start. You had asked if I could turn the engine by hand- yes. New parts are battery, starter, solenoid, and ignition switch. Starter does try to engage engine when hot wired from bat to starter----- now will crank 2-3 times and blows the fuse. I suspect short in main wiring harness. Looking at possibly replacing the main harness. Any advice. Nearly winter where I'm at, so will work on in the spring.
It was a running mower, it sat for 2 wks and then this issue has kept it parked. Have not had any major issues with it till now. Running normal, no hard starting, no leaking or using oil, and just put new drive belt and deck belt first part of this summer @@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE
I find model and serial number on the machine, then I look at popular small engine sites and put that information into their site and they'll give me the information I need. after that it's up to you where you buy the part. Amazon, Ebay or some other site
Both my 024 (bought used years ago) and 025 (Bought used last year, made in 1999) stalls too, immediately after I switch the choke off, no matter what carb adjustment. Tried my hand on the 024 which I changed main fuel hose + filter, as well as impulse hose and spark plug, checked compression, checked muffler was free of obstructions, ditto fuel tank vent hose. Did a vacuum test on intake boot as well while moving it around (-0.5 bar according to Stihl spec), all checked out. Still no cigar. Then tried on the 025, same as above (which is to mean good compression, good spark, changed spark plug changed hoses blabla), same exact result, starts but won't idle when I take it off choke. Now, I'm a Stihl guy, but pro-grade saws mainly, so now I have a pretty solid idea why, those plastic clamshell crank housings are great for weight saving. .. Up until someone abuses them, the plastic gets pulled outta whack by the heat, displacing the crank & head not by so much that you see it but by just enough to take everything out of spec and that's all she wrote. In other words, only go with saws that have metal clamshell (crank housings), or, that's my current theory anyway.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE Yeah forgot to say I tried both rebuilding and replacing carbs on both saws and adjusted them to the correct spec to at least get the saws running. Starts and goes'ish on choke, take it off choke = stalls, cranking up the idle screw max only makes it idle a little bit higher for a split second before it stalls, applying throttle to get it off choke automatically yields the same result, takes it off choke and stalls it. I thought maybe it was getting way too much, but the sparkplug (NGK) looks perfect, and I replaced it with a new one (also NGK). I blew the air filter (metal mesh winter type) clean for good measure (but it was already pretty clean). Not one to give up easily, I also tried switching over the pumping and metering diaphragm from new carbs over to old carbs (which are clean, but I blew them clean all the same). So I tried both diaphragm's from both the old and new 024 carb in the 025 carb (direct bolt-in) but alas, same thing, likewise the other way around. At that point I gave up on the 024 so I could focus fully on the 025 because 1) it's almost like a pro-saw in how much easier it is to work on. Also 2) If you thought the 025 carb linkage was difficult, don't touch the 024! So about cylinder damage, which both my Stihl retailer and a specialist on TH-cam ("married with small engines" here on TH-cam) says the compression tester might not pick up on. In the process of inspecting/cleaning/rebuilding carb and muffler, I inspected the cylinder. I know for sure the front and back (around the ports) are good, and in 99% of cases that's usually where they get it, cylinder still has honing marks and piston has machining marks. That leaves the crank seals, the crankcase needs sealing or there's no vacuum for the impulse hose to make carb pull fuel. And a lot of people say the crank seals can be not as good quality on plastic homeowner saws as on the professional 026/260/261's, that would be a 20 dollar fix and it's definitely worth trying, I'll report back :) Edit: Goes without saying, but it's worth repeating your videos have helped me in largely understanding ballpark how small engines work, was able to repair my snowblower last winter (bad grounds for ignition system) and that got me out of a big pinch. Thanks for doing what you do!
I run stihls that have a “0” in the model number, whether before or after the model. Youngest saw I have is 13, an ms 290. I call it my new saw, Not a fan of where Stihl went once the 1’s and 2’s started getting put in the model numbers. Great video man.
Hey bro what's up? I have the same model chainsaw but it was made in Brazil. The area where the carburetor is a little different to the one that I own. Great video bro👏👏. As for your question I believe that you already know my answer to your question bro.
Just a helpful hint, I believe there is a passage to adjust the second mixture screw. If you look on the black handle there is a depression/hole in it that I believe will allow a screwdriver to access the screw although the screwdriver shaft may need to be longer.
I have that same saw. It did the same thing about not wanting to stay running. Put an aftermarket carb on it. It's adjustable and got it running like new again. On mine i just left that plastic piece off
In response to your question, I’d always prefer an older machine, as long as its weight and handling characteristics aren’t too different. Beyond a certain age saws were much heavier with a lower power to weight ratio, thereby making them much more strenuous and time consuming to use.
Ms250-was working fine- then stopped while sawing the other day...trouble re starting and kept stopping --so I cleaned much, removed and cleaned muffler replaced gas, plug,gas and air filter. Saw still now hard starting and stops cold while running for about a minute--- coil, condenser , something else? Thanks for any help.
I'd just as soon have an older Stihl but probably not another brand. All of my saws have been older and run like they were on fire for ages except the 26 but it was a screamer anyway. I ran a 24 Stihl with a 24 inch bar and it was a BEAUTY as in not too heavy with enough power to do the job; just a sweet running saw. My pal with his shop has one but it needs a top end. I'll pass. Leaf season now. Good fix and Blessings
I got one of this ms 250 or 025 and I redone the carb with gaskets and diapraghms the problem is when Im trying on restart it after 25 minutes needs choke again, its normal? or maybe i got a gas pressure trouble?
I have an older saw and a modern one. The modern saw is easier to start and bigger and pulls a 20” bar and chain. The older saw doesn’t have a primer and can be a pain to start sometimes. Both work well though, but the older one is a small saw runs 14 or 16” bar. I had to clean up the flywheel magnets and iron core for the coil and replaced the plug and flood the carb with gas and it started sucking and running fine
I usually chose the older. Partially because I inherit them but usually it seems to me that the older equipment is built better, but that is my opinion. And if I in her it them, then I usually know the history of use/abuse. I believe I have that model of chainsaw in the shed. I think I’ve got a Poulan, several Stihls and one ore two odds and ends.
Mine sat a few years. Ryobi 14". Cleaned it up. Back together. Would not stay running. I suspected the butterfly and needles or pins in carburetor were just dry. Or gummed up. Took of air filter, opened the choke and sprayed throttle body cleaner in. Just let it soak. Also primed it up but didn't try to start it. Just let the gas get in there and free it up. 2 days later I fired it up and she ran like a kitten. Carb probably just gummed up
I've got a stihl fs420 brush cutter it starts and revs up good but it won't idle I've tried adjusting the carburetor and idle screw etc but it makes no difference could it be an air leak or something engine has good compression to
Excellent video...and to answer, I'd prefer to have the older saw (1977 Stihl 028AV) running well...and maybe brag a little bit around friends that chose lesser brands along the way. When it's beat, well then no choice to replace...or step away from the game. Until then though, use in good health.
Brand new stihl ms170 won’t stay running shuts off at idle…..took back to dealer they made it seem like I should have adjusted carb myself…..did I do the right thing? Its under warranty id rather not mess with it think its the carb? Works very well just won’t stay running at idle
I just did a rebuild and upgrading to the Husqvarna 61. It was a great education in how chainsaws work. I put a china bigbore cylinder and piston kit into it and made it a 272. I would run old saws just on principal. This saw is a beast and cost very little. The owner basically was throwing it out. Now its essentially new
I have a MS311 Stihl. I put a new coil pack on it (aftermarket) a new carb. it starts good, but when I rev it up, it’s like it is surging. The old coil was not working at all. Could my problem still be the coil? Any ideas?
My saw starts giving itself high idle gas after working with it for couple of minutes and then it shuts down. When i start it cold idle gas is normal. I checked fuel filters and there seems to be no problem with it getting enough fuel. I never adjusted anything on the carburetor.
Gasoline has a way of destroying everything that it touches, and if it's in constant contact with it for a very long time, it'll fail. Constant fresh fuel isn't as bad, so continuous use, is best for these machines
I have a ms 180c , can't get throttle response right, won't stay running, I've tried everything I know. So far :New piston/cylinder crank, aftermarket carb then rebuild OEM, air filter, fuel filter, unit is not old , just fuel went bad .
@@aaronpowell4885 Wow, that’s a really good point I never thought about before! I need to keep that in mind any time I’m working on older machines! Thanks so much for that! 🔧👍
It would be interesting to see if putting in the ethanol free gas would require turning the screws back. That brings up another question. If the factory tunes it up for one gas and I buy the other kind of gas do I need to retune the engine ? I only use the ethanol free gas in the small engines now. Just use the ethanol junk in the car. @@aaronpowell4885
I would go with a new saw compared to an older saw. At a certin point, age starts playing a factor and not just hours. I have fixed multiple small issues (with oe parts) and have been close to spending what l would have on a new unit. But the challenge and giving me something to do was worth it!
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE It was for me, didn't know chainsaws had a flexi rubber manifold with a separate pipe for the pulse that goes to the little hole on the back of the carb to work the pump diaphragm.
I would absolutely not recommend replacing a carb on a good quality tool because whatever shit you buy from china is gonna forever be worse than oem, get a rebuild kit
Recommending to replace whole carburetor when only diaphragm is worn out is like replacing engine when only new piston rings are needed. I was surprised You haven’t concluded in the end that buying new saw is better solution 😂
It all depends on time and money. On some of the small engines the carb is not that expensive and if paying shop rates it is cheaper just to replace than repair.
Clean the air filter, change the spark plug, replace the fuel uptake rubber hose (they get splits allowing air in), pour in some new premix fuel and it will work
@@robertb.8885 It links the fuel tank to the carbi. As the rubber gets old it splits, causing fuel to leak and air to get into the carbi causing it to run poorly.
The amount of detail you give is not only insane, but extremely helpful. Thanks for that.
I appreciate that
By far, one of the most informative videos on chainsaw troubleshooting I've viewed. I am experiencing this problem on an 029 that is 30+ years old, and it's been a bit frustrating. I've worked everything but the carb, and that is now on the agenda. This video gave me a great heads up on how to proceed. Thank you.
you're welcome and thank you for the kind words!
1999, 029 super. I have a 021 that’s 31 years old 1993.
I have an 025 purchased new back in 1997 Aside from a chain replacement or two, the only other issue i had was with a cracked / leaking fuel line. I also bought a FarmBoss w/ 20" bar last year for some very large Copper Beech and Cherry trees that needed cut up on the property here. Great saws, great Brand.
thank you for sharing that
My main saw is still an old homelite 330. Cleaned the carb, replaced the intake boot, and it’s still putting in work. My backup is an even older Xl-12 that needed even less
very nice!
I used homelight in my tree business and had better luck with them than with a stihl
Can you do a video that shows your degreaser and paint sprayer? Would love to know what your set up is
Harbor Freight degreaser.
I just use a pressure washer on all my repairs. Keeps my workbench clean
yes I can.
that works too.
These videos are always super entertaining and helpful to watch
Holy crap... I have an 023 doing exactly the same thing !!!!! It's till the original carb with no rebuilds ever, so, yeah, I'll try a rebuild on it or a new one. It's had 30 years of hard use but I don't want to replace it just yet. It's been a great runner and has cut hundreds of cords....Still starts right up and cuts great but won't stay running on idle no matter how it's adjusted.
I have an 017. Be mindful of the gas line. Mine had a hole in the gas line in the tank so it was sucking some air. It took me a while to find that trouble. She’s running and cutting great now! You have to order and replace with the right molded gas line for your saw.
Thank you Sir... I'll check that too.@@KennyBaltz
good luck with it.
I bought an used Stihl 025 model (16'' bar) about 15 years ago. As a homeowner with a big wooded yard I use it every year, trimming branches and cutting firewood. For the first time this year the saw started to stall after 10 minutes. And for the first time I decided to bring it to a repair shop for maintenance. They replaced the coil and overhauled the carb ($$). Even after this the problem remained. Next recourse: check out some TH-cam channels. This helped me locate the problem: it was simply the clogged air vent. On your video it's the black plastic vertical tube located to the left of of the carburetor, seen here at 7:54. Mine, possibly a homemade fix, has a small screw inserted at each end. Removed the screws and pushed air into the tube. Now the saw is running smoothly again. Your insight is greatly appreciated.
very good work
Many like ther old Stihl saws😊
Required a good clean, well done😊
I did notice the chain needed to be tightened slightly and perhaps sharpened 😊
yes I should have tightened it before using it. thank you for noticing
Sure enjoy watching your videos. I do good on 4 cycle engines but struggle with 2 cycle engines.
I'm the same way, the 2 cycle are just a bit finicky
My grandpa bought a ms180 in 2008, used it for a few years to make firewood, then the saw suddenly stopped starting so it was left in the garage for around 8 years. So one day I’m doing some work and I found the chainsaw, asked my grandpa about it. He told me that it doesn’t start so I gave it a shot. Cleaned the carburetor, filters, bought a new spark plug and it works like a charm. I still have it and use it to this day and I believe that the one I have is better than the new one.
nice work!
Rebuilt mine 1/2 a year ago in Australia, mine needed new crankshaft seals that are a thicker design - it is a German made version.
Carb is 1 turn out low & High with Low needing another 1/4 out for the middle sweet spot. Recently, I've had carburettor check valve failure & blockage in low idle circuit that needed cleaning. Impressive the cylinder & piston /rings were /are like new. So very impressive for its age & yes compression & power it has got. Ideal home owner saw as I've done larger jobs it wasn't designed for 😅
Thanks for sharing
Was the 026 made in Germany?
@@raincoast9010 Yes - Sold in Australia !
Hello, On your advice and detailed knowledge from your video, I took the carb off my malfunctioning 1998 STIHL Model 036 PRO, yesterday. My carb wouldn't come off until I removed the upper half of the handle that hold the safety and the trigger assy. If you go to your video at 12.03 [the Diaphragm]. I'm pretty sure I put that back upside down. However, Skeptical. When I put the thing back together...The machine started right up and ran and operated perfectly. Thank you so much. I could not have done it without your detailed video. A+ A+ A+ Thank you, Chris SE PA USA
no problem and you did an excellent job fixing it too!
Easiest way to remove the choke linkage is to push the choke in on the carb and sliding the linkage to the left. It slides right out. The parts for the 021, 023 and 025 are still being made because Stihl still makes the MS 250 (the newer version of the 025).
I have an MS 250, MS 170, Stihl 039 and a Stihl 026. I don't like the newer 1 models. They went the way that Husqvarna did on their saws. Over engineered with a bunch of little bits of plastic that if you were to remove, you'd have to get a new part.
thank you!
Hello there
Really useful video - thank you.
Can you detail what degreaser / mix you use in this video? It's doing a great job of clearing the gunk off everything!
sure it's the degreaser from Harbor Freight. Don't worry, they only have the one.
Thank you. I have a 025 stihl also. I had a problem of it constantly stalling. The repair shop suggested putting a new engine in, which I did. I still had the same problem of it running and then stalling out. None of the shops could fix it. After the new engine was installed I only used True Fuel from the store. I was moving back to Florida so I emptied all the chain oil out and all the fuel. Tried to start the engine to ensure all the fuel was gone. I then stored it away. After several years I put a small amount of fuel in and some chain oil and she started right up. When I went to cut a pine tree she stalled. I havent been able to get it started since. After watching your video and another (about cleaning the valve? That allows air into the fuel tank). I will also use your video to take apart and clean the carburator (i think you put the carburater in carb cleaner then turned on your sonic cleaner?)
no problem and good luck with it. Right now I'm putting the carb into gasoline, and then put the jar into the ultra sonic
Very good and clear video. Like your channel. I have a old 023 and problem is that after i run it for 15 minutes and try to restart........nothing. Always starts and run well. Would appreciate some advice. Thank you
sure, when it happens again, try take off the air filter and dropping in some fuel into the carb, If it starts back up and runs, it's a carb issue and you can decide what to do
Equipment was manufactured better years ago. No matter what brand, stick with your original equipment as long as possible. This means actually taking care of the equipment as per manufacturers recommendations. New items are made cheaper and cost cutting shows eventually. Parts are the only issue for older models both in cost and availability. Oldie but Goodie still rules, just as we all age!!
well said!
I have an 025 and i love it, it's my favorite chainsaw.
that's a very good saw
There is usually a spring that controls chain oiling. If it’s out of spec it can cause too much or too little oiling.
Thank you for your videos. I’ve learned a great deal from you. I recently started working for a tree cutting company. We have a saw that starts and runs but shuts off when we turn it on its side to make the cut. Any suggestions. Thanks again
sure, check and make sure there's enough fuel line in the tank. IF that's good then check and make sure the tank vent is working like it should. after that's its a gasket issue.
The black cap, thread on style Stihl saws are very reliable. They were the saws that Stihl built their empire on.
I can agree with that
You got off easy on that one!
I sure did
Quick question, I’m working with. Stihl 020T. I have the oil reservoir emptied out while I try to get it running correctly so I don’t have oil dripping out. My question is could having the oil reservoir empty prevent the saw from running correctly? I noticed you mentioned having oil in the saw. I don’t have the bar on right now so I don’t need oil. Thanks for your help in advance.
thanks for the question and no having the oil reservoir off should not keep the engine from running. They are 2 separate systems
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE ok thanks!! I think I’ve got to replace carb at this point.
I got a similar saw, the Stihl 023, its almost the same, i dont know what the difernce would be.....
I would like to know how many gasquets got on the mufler and how they are asembly.
I taked it a part yesterday and i might lost 1 gasket or: is there only one gasket between the mufler ans shild? Or are there other gasket betwin the shild and the piston chamber? Thanks
that information I wouldn't know about
I have a Stihl ms 250. I have had it probably 20years. worked fine when I put it up a year or so again. I think I ran it dry. now it starts but won" but won"t run. here is what I have done. put new carb kit in it, replaced the wiring, replaced air filter, replaced coil with new aftermarket-did"t help, put oem back in. cleaned spark arrestor, replaced with new 89 octane gas and oil. new spark plug. tore carburetor down and put in ultrasonic cleaner for over an hour twice. it still sounds like it is starving for fuel. I am at Witts end. this is a great saw. I have to fix it.
sure, have you considered adjusting the carb for more fuel? If so, then there's an air leak somewhere in the intake boot, or at an engine seal.
Thank you for this video. Although what the heck is a sonic cleaner? No haven't googled it in just lazy haha. Great video though. Straight to the point with good camera work👍
not sure if you've seen it, but it's an container that has ultra sonic transducers under it. you fill it with water or cleaner and put whatever you want to clean. Most use them for jewelry, but carbs work too.
Loved your presentation! I am a Stihl Tec. at a local hardware store. I want to know what one earth you cleaned that saw with? That stuff is great! I hate repairing a dirty saw!
LOL had one some weeks ago that was so dirty that the customer couldn't turn the saw OFF. That much grim and oil was keeping the stop switch from making contact;. (Charged him what I call; "stupid tax" for not maintaining his saw.
Just want to know that cleaner so I can get some, thanks.
thanks, it's the degreaser from Harbor Freight.
I contacted u about my Poulan Pro riding mower model:pp20va46- would not start. You had asked if I could turn the engine by hand- yes. New parts are battery, starter, solenoid, and ignition switch. Starter does try to engage engine when hot wired from bat to starter----- now will crank 2-3 times and blows the fuse. I suspect short in main wiring harness. Looking at possibly replacing the main harness. Any advice. Nearly winter where I'm at, so will work on in the spring.
have you checked the valve lash? From the description it seems to be out of tolerance by quite a bit.
It was a running mower, it sat for 2 wks and then this issue has kept it parked. Have not had any major issues with it till now. Running normal, no hard starting, no leaking or using oil, and just put new drive belt and deck belt first part of this summer @@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE
Just curious where you would look for parts and how to make sure they are the correct ones?
I find model and serial number on the machine, then I look at popular small engine sites and put that information into their site and they'll give me the information I need. after that it's up to you where you buy the part. Amazon, Ebay or some other site
Both my 024 (bought used years ago) and 025 (Bought used last year, made in 1999) stalls too, immediately after I switch the choke off, no matter what carb adjustment.
Tried my hand on the 024 which I changed main fuel hose + filter, as well as impulse hose and spark plug, checked compression, checked muffler was free of obstructions, ditto fuel tank vent hose. Did a vacuum test on intake boot as well while moving it around (-0.5 bar according to Stihl spec), all checked out.
Still no cigar.
Then tried on the 025, same as above (which is to mean good compression, good spark, changed spark plug changed hoses blabla), same exact result, starts but won't idle when I take it off choke.
Now, I'm a Stihl guy, but pro-grade saws mainly, so now I have a pretty solid idea why, those plastic clamshell crank housings are great for weight saving.
.. Up until someone abuses them, the plastic gets pulled outta whack by the heat, displacing the crank & head not by so much that you see it but by just enough to take everything out of spec and that's all she wrote.
In other words, only go with saws that have metal clamshell (crank housings), or, that's my current theory anyway.
you have a point about the case plastics. Also have you not tried to replace the carb yet?
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE Yeah forgot to say I tried both rebuilding and replacing carbs on both saws and adjusted them to the correct spec to at least get the saws running.
Starts and goes'ish on choke, take it off choke = stalls, cranking up the idle screw max only makes it idle a little bit higher for a split second before it stalls, applying throttle to get it off choke automatically yields the same result, takes it off choke and stalls it.
I thought maybe it was getting way too much, but the sparkplug (NGK) looks perfect, and I replaced it with a new one (also NGK).
I blew the air filter (metal mesh winter type) clean for good measure (but it was already pretty clean).
Not one to give up easily, I also tried switching over the pumping and metering diaphragm from new carbs over to old carbs (which are clean, but I blew them clean all the same).
So I tried both diaphragm's from both the old and new 024 carb in the 025 carb (direct bolt-in) but alas, same thing, likewise the other way around.
At that point I gave up on the 024 so I could focus fully on the 025 because 1) it's almost like a pro-saw in how much easier it is to work on.
Also 2) If you thought the 025 carb linkage was difficult, don't touch the 024!
So about cylinder damage, which both my Stihl retailer and a specialist on TH-cam ("married with small engines" here on TH-cam) says the compression tester might not pick up on.
In the process of inspecting/cleaning/rebuilding carb and muffler, I inspected the cylinder.
I know for sure the front and back (around the ports) are good, and in 99% of cases that's usually where they get it, cylinder still has honing marks and piston has machining marks.
That leaves the crank seals, the crankcase needs sealing or there's no vacuum for the impulse hose to make carb pull fuel.
And a lot of people say the crank seals can be not as good quality on plastic homeowner saws as on the professional 026/260/261's, that would be a 20 dollar fix and it's definitely worth trying, I'll report back :)
Edit: Goes without saying, but it's worth repeating your videos have helped me in largely understanding ballpark how small engines work, was able to repair my snowblower last winter (bad grounds for ignition system) and that got me out of a big pinch.
Thanks for doing what you do!
I run stihls that have a “0” in the model number, whether before or after the model. Youngest saw I have is 13, an ms 290. I call it my new saw, Not a fan of where Stihl went once the 1’s and 2’s started getting put in the model numbers. Great video man.
I like they way you're choosing saw! Thank you!
Hey bro what's up? I have the same model chainsaw but it was made in Brazil. The area where the carburetor is a little different to the one that I own. Great video bro👏👏. As for your question I believe that you already know my answer to your question bro.
yes I do, thank you!
Just a helpful hint, I believe there is a passage to adjust the second mixture screw. If you look on the black handle there is a depression/hole in it that I believe will allow a screwdriver to access the screw although the screwdriver shaft may need to be longer.
thanks
025 is definetly one of the most lightest and powerful saws they built.
I like it a lot too.
I have that same saw. It did the same thing about not wanting to stay running. Put an aftermarket carb on it. It's adjustable and got it running like new again. On mine i just left that plastic piece off
hey nice work. Which plastic piece did you leave off?
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE the one that goes around the adjustment screws
In response to your question, I’d always prefer an older machine, as long as its weight and handling characteristics aren’t too different. Beyond a certain age saws were much heavier with a lower power to weight ratio, thereby making them much more strenuous and time consuming to use.
me too!
The older work better than the new stuff
agreed
What degreaser did you use? The video makes it look like you did not agitated it at all and if you didn’t that is very impressive results.
it's the degreaser from Harbor Freight and I'm using it at full concentration
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE thank you so much! Did you have to agitate it at all? If you didn’t, that is even more impressive.
no agitation
Ms250-was working fine- then stopped while sawing the other day...trouble re starting and kept stopping --so I cleaned much, removed and cleaned muffler replaced gas, plug,gas and air filter.
Saw still now hard starting and stops cold while running for about a minute--- coil, condenser , something else? Thanks for any help.
sure, did you check the fuel tank vent? Also, did you check to see if the fuel filter was still attached to the line in the tank?
I'd just as soon have an older Stihl but probably not another brand. All of my saws have been older and run like they were on fire for ages except the 26 but it was a screamer anyway. I ran a 24 Stihl with a 24 inch bar and it was a BEAUTY as in not too heavy with enough power to do the job; just a sweet running saw. My pal with his shop has one but it needs a top end. I'll pass. Leaf season now. Good fix and Blessings
good choice!
I got one of this ms 250 or 025 and I redone the carb with gaskets and diapraghms the problem is when Im trying on restart it after 25 minutes needs choke again, its normal? or maybe i got a gas pressure trouble?
depending on the air time, 25 minutes would be more than enough to cool the engine down requiring to use the choke again.
Be sure to check your gas line. A leak in the gas line inside the tank will drive you crazy.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge it helps
My pleasure
I have an older saw and a modern one. The modern saw is easier to start and bigger and pulls a 20” bar and chain. The older saw doesn’t have a primer and can be a pain to start sometimes. Both work well though, but the older one is a small saw runs 14 or 16” bar. I had to clean up the flywheel magnets and iron core for the coil and replaced the plug and flood the carb with gas and it started sucking and running fine
nice work
I usually chose the older. Partially because I inherit them but usually it seems to me that the older equipment is built better, but that is my opinion. And if I in her it them, then I usually know the history of use/abuse.
I believe I have that model of chainsaw in the shed. I think I’ve got a Poulan, several Stihls and one ore two odds and ends.
nice collection and yes I think the older ones are great too.
Mine sat a few years. Ryobi 14". Cleaned it up. Back together. Would not stay running. I suspected the butterfly and needles or pins in carburetor were just dry. Or gummed up. Took of air filter, opened the choke and sprayed throttle body cleaner in. Just let it soak. Also primed it up but didn't try to start it. Just let the gas get in there and free it up. 2 days later I fired it up and she ran like a kitten. Carb probably just gummed up
glad it worked out for you
What is a good replacement carb for the 025?
don't know
I've got a stihl fs420 brush cutter it starts and revs up good but it won't idle I've tried adjusting the carburetor and idle screw etc but it makes no difference could it be an air leak or something engine has good compression to
no unfortunately I'm leaning towards a carb issue. I'd replace it or have the carb serviced.
Excellent video...and to answer, I'd prefer to have the older saw (1977 Stihl 028AV) running well...and maybe brag a little bit around friends that chose lesser brands along the way. When it's beat, well then no choice to replace...or step away from the game. Until then though, use in good health.
Thank you for your answer
Brand new stihl ms170 won’t stay running shuts off at idle…..took back to dealer they made it seem like I should have adjusted carb myself…..did I do the right thing? Its under warranty id rather not mess with it think its the carb? Works very well just won’t stay running at idle
The carb for the MS170 Is not adjustable.
I just did a rebuild and upgrading to the Husqvarna 61. It was a great education in how chainsaws work. I put a china bigbore cylinder and piston kit into it and made it a 272. I would run old saws just on principal. This saw is a beast and cost very little. The owner basically was throwing it out. Now its essentially new
very nice work!
TY for Sharing
You are so welcome
Back in the day chain saw s had a manual oiling system which was a little testing of the user to keep the chain And bar properly coated In oil
yes they did, it was button If I recall.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE you are right about the old school oiling system which was a push button to oil the chain and bar
Great video 👍🙏👍🙏
Thank you very much!
anyone know what the tach reading is at high and low RPM? for the 250 and 271
What liquid was in the jar you put the carb in .
stale gasoline
Thanks
I have a MS311 Stihl. I put a new coil pack on it (aftermarket) a new carb. it starts good, but when I rev it up, it’s like it is surging. The old coil was not working at all. Could my problem still be the coil? Any ideas?
I think you need to adjust the carb.
I normally put my chainsaw bar and chain into the dishwasher, I don't normally do it when the wife's standing in the kitchen
LOL!!
My saw starts giving itself high idle gas after working with it for couple of minutes and then it shuts down. When i start it cold idle gas is normal. I checked fuel filters and there seems to be no problem with it getting enough fuel. I never adjusted anything on the carburetor.
have you checked the tank vent?
My dad and I fixed the same saw this year
hey nice job!
What problem this Stihl chainsaw? Not work? I have Stihl 171 and Stihl 880
did you watch the entire video? I'm pretty sure I mentioned it.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE Yes I watched but not totally understand everything I need copy Google translator
How is fuel a factor in these issues? If the fuel was mixed a while back there would be a problem?
Gasoline has a way of destroying everything that it touches, and if it's in constant contact with it for a very long time, it'll fail. Constant fresh fuel isn't as bad, so continuous use, is best for these machines
I have a ms 180c , can't get throttle response right, won't stay running, I've tried everything I know. So far :New piston/cylinder crank, aftermarket carb then rebuild OEM, air filter, fuel filter, unit is not old , just fuel went bad .
you did a lot of work. How was the compression reading after the rebuild and have you leaked checked the engine?
what liquid in jar and in machine to clean?
not sure what you're asking
I think it’s remarkable that the initial factory L setting is one turn out yet it’s tuned well now, years later, at 2.25 turns out.
I know right, glad you saw that too.
I believe part of that can be contributed to ethanol in todays gasoline. Ethanol produces about 30% less btu's than gasoline.
@@aaronpowell4885
Wow, that’s a really good point I never thought about before! I need to keep that in mind any time I’m working on older machines! Thanks so much for that! 🔧👍
@@Rein_Ciarfella 😉👍🏻
It would be interesting to see if putting in the ethanol free gas would require turning the screws back. That brings up another question. If the factory tunes it up for one gas and I buy the other kind of gas do I need to retune the engine ? I only use the ethanol free gas in the small engines now. Just use the ethanol junk in the car.
@@aaronpowell4885
I would go with a new saw compared to an older saw. At a certin point, age starts playing a factor and not just hours. I have fixed multiple small issues (with oe parts) and have been close to spending what l would have on a new unit. But the challenge and giving me something to do was worth it!
good choice!
I've just done an old Stihl 038av chainsaw, turned out it was the impulse pipe had rotted away.
wow that's a first for me
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE It was for me, didn't know chainsaws had a flexi rubber manifold with a separate pipe for the pulse that goes to the little hole on the back of the carb to work the pump diaphragm.
it was a surprise to me too.
I would absolutely not recommend replacing a carb on a good quality tool because whatever shit you buy from china is gonna forever be worse than oem, get a rebuild kit
you make a good point.
Stihl ms250 is a awful chainsaw.... (I have one and hate it... it's garbage...) the least reliable out of all my saws...
@@AdolfAuschwitz79my ms250 is the most reliable saw I’ve got. I’ve had it for 7 years, it’s my go to saw. 🙂
Hey if you look at the carb it says made china anyway 😆
@stark2315 depends, on high end I've seen 50/50 china Japan
Why do I have to keep pumping primer bulb to keep saw running
because one of the diaphragms in the carb is not working like it should,
Found problem, pin hole in fuel line.
You showed a close up of the chain which asked for some tension.
yes you are correct
If u have a dirty fuel filter inside the tank it will prevent the chainsaw to start or stall too
you are correct
Recommending to replace whole carburetor when only diaphragm is worn out is like replacing engine when only new piston rings are needed. I was surprised You haven’t concluded in the end that buying new saw is better solution 😂
your wisdom is beyond belief and understanding.
It all depends on time and money. On some of the small engines the carb is not that expensive and if paying shop rates it is cheaper just to replace than repair.
Clean the air filter, change the spark plug, replace the fuel uptake rubber hose (they get splits allowing air in), pour in some new premix fuel and it will work
thank you
You ,mentioned replacing the fuel uptake rubber hose ,is this located on the tank with the little screw regards
@@robertb.8885 It links the fuel tank to the carbi. As the rubber gets old it splits, causing fuel to leak and air to get into the carbi causing it to run poorly.
@@Wilbargosh cheers thanks for the reply:)
Loose chain ?
a bit
For me if I had to choose a Chainsaw old school one's would be it etc.
nice choice
That is 025 it the best saw u can have
thank you for that
I would prefer the older saw.
me too.
For an older saw those diaphragms looked in very good conditions.
yes you're right about that.
I would rather have an older one.
agreed
"Be careful using a water hose as it will literally drench your machine" ..."After you've sprayed your machine with about 5 gallons of water".....
Yeppp
That is an aftermarket carb.
at it's Age I would assume that too.
Can we get a 3 minute video for once
thank you for this comment
Thats some degreaser
yes it is.
Ill just buy a new chainsaw and throw this one in the garbage.
your choice
The new one are trash I will not buy one I hope Stihl go out of business
Stihl is junk,have 2 that dont run for shit. My Husky never gave me a problem,strong rpm no bog,lighter,easier to start,not as bulky
thank you for sharing that, I know a lot of people feel the same way
Old
same