Would love to see it taken apart and get the pssound complete deadening,soundproofing,have amp repaired or replaced,get the helix in there, so it can play at full pssound potential. Fingers crossed
One of biggest issue for unexperienced builder is if there is something wrong with equipment. It's hard to tell are you doing something wrong when your DSP won't work proberly or lose your setup during the night, month after tuning.
I hope my Crown Vic lasts forever because I've spent a thousand hours getting rid of rattles so my bass sounds good. From deleting the trunk torsion bars, cutting through rear deck to sound deadening and decoupling every piece with foam.
In the end its you that enjoys the audio in your car 🚗 🤣 hard work sometimes is never really appreciated, but I feel your pain,lol,took me a week and 1000 in materials to deaden my truck it not easy work,but end result is worthwhile, and nope cars don't last forever we get bored with them ,I had a 03 and a 2010 p71 vic my daughter has had my 10 for over a year now,3 spending tickets lots of money in fines now she finally uses cruise control at speed limit,,kids lol,
Hi Peter out of interest did the hiss go when you changed the DSP. Always wondered what them boxes sounded like. I could not live with that boot rattle.
Certain amount of the hiss was coming and is still coming from the speaker levels. Then the amp gains were also up all the way and the DSP wasn’t the best either. Now the system has low floor noise after the Helix went in and gains on amps reset properly. It’s quiet with HEC BT, but speaker levels are still a bit noisy. It would need MOST25 integration to get clean source fr the HU, but tbf i doubt he’ll miss it too much after streaming from a phone via HEC BT, which sounds great!
Oh man. Things like the number plate, gas tank cover and even the roof, I can fathom getting somewhat easily deadened, but that trunk panel...I can't think of a clean way to get in =/ Having said that, if it's the only thing left making noise and you're listening at basshead levels, it probably doesn't matter too much. I remember having pretty annoying door rattle from the mid bass (I know, I know 😂), but when listening to crazy stuff, it (and everything else) was drowned out by the wall of sound >=)
There is no such thing as “least resistance”, they all have their odds & cons. Short cab vans like the T6.1 we shared a week ago is difficult in bass for sure.
Awesome video, is there a usual way rear seats like that can be taken out? If I raise the seating surface all the way, I can see two bolts, but if I losen them, it's still not moving.
I live in the US and most people in SQ here dont even use JL subs... they are not bad, but i would much rather have something more modern with some copper shorting rings in it. the audison DSP and focal amps are similar situation.. mehh.. but could have chosen much better.. but at the end of the day the install is what is more important than anything else... then equipment..
Equipment selection depends on budget most of the times and customers may not even know what’s possible, so they can run easily run into a situation like this.
What script prep do you do before recording video? I'm growing my YT channel but don't have time to write a script but also can't say what I want to say on the fly by winging it. Thx. Video editing software? You rock! Please bring a show video to Slamology next summer in Indianapolis Indiana US or at least you come to enjoy it. Believe it or not there are SQ builds there. It's the world's largest car audio show. Similar to SEMA the world's largest automotive aftermarket show (Las Vegas, NV, US). You're doing a phenomenal job but I'd like to see very brief teaser at beginning of each video to let us know what to look forward to because the thumbnail teaser isn't enough to make me think, I wanna see how he designed and built that! And his reasoning. Thx.
Brandon i have no time for script or anything, i just go with the flow. The material is what matters. If someone wants to learn, then they can watch it, at least my videos are free from marketing bullsh.t. Not trying to sell anything, rather educate people and focus on what really matters. Short teaser at the beginning is doable and makes sense. It’s just that I hardly have time for anything. If i wanted perfectly directed videos, then i would hardly share anything.
I had subs put in but it’s not hitting like it should be. What’s wrong with it ? I have a 2017 F10. 2 8 inch hi fonics 600 rms 1200 peak on a sundown 1750 it’s clipping too. Help please it sounds like shit. No bass hits when I turn up the volume
Take it to a local shop, impossible to tell over the internet. Only thing i can suggest is to check the polarity on each sub, so they are not out of phase compared to each other.
Great Video! I assume that tweeters have factory passive hi-pass and the door mids are getting active hi-pass from the Focal amp. But what did you do regarding the lack of low-pass crossover on the door mid? Is it just running open?
Door mid+tweeter run off the same amp channel processed from the DSP, explained in the video. Those speakers have a passive Xover between them for the tweeters.
@@pssound9749 Yes I understand that there is a passive hi-pass element on the tweeter and an active hi-pass from the dsp below the mid as I attempted to state in my original post. To restate, my assumption is that the tweeter and mid are on a single amp channel with an active hi-pass xover set for the mid and a passive BMW hi-pass on the tweeter. But there is no low-pass on the mid... unless you did something to it as I didn't think BMW low passed the mid passively? *My question is whether you did anything to lowpass the mid (effectively creating the top end of a bandpass filter for that driver). Or is the mid in the door running wide open signal at the top end because there is no active or passive element on it?
@@ccvideotech the Focal K100 has a proper Xover that does LPF for the mid too, but you could even bypass that in most cases as the the tweeters are crossed really high and most upgrades leave a gap between the mid and the tweeter in 4-7/8kHz.
@@pssound9749 Somehow I missed (forgot about) the new front speakers in the doors! I thought they were still factory with just electronics replaced. Are the Focal passive crossovers in the doors then?
Anyone know of a vehicle that can place at both a SPL event and SQ event? That can do at least 160 but has superior SQ? I'd be interested in learning about any vehicle that can do 60s (preferably on music) but also setup to compete in SQ and Best of Show with similar to PSSounds build quality. Anyone know of vehicles close to what I'm saying?
160dB cars don’t have subs suitable for refined, precise bass, so you’d need 2 completely independent systems. Also, when you do 160dB, you can damage your SQ speakers just by the sheer pressure. It’s probably why you don’t see any cars that can do both at those crazy levels. My Honda could do 145dB @15Hz, more than enough to have great fun!🔊🔊
he doesn't know, you gotta measure it with an RTA and REW. It's different every time based on location, box type, box size, etc... A 15 can be plenty musical you just have to eq out the big peaks
JC musical in my dictionary means that the sub can cover as many octaves as possible. Ported tuned higher like 35Hz and above sucks at lower octaves, while a large, low tuned (sub 28Hz) box may struggle to play the upper bass clean and the box is also huge. For daily i’d tune a ported 30-34Hzish, but it still can’t play below 25Hz well and after using sealed & IB most of the times, ported is just not good enough, unless all you want to do is just street banging.
@@pssound9749 my bad, I misread his question. I thought he was talking about how to eq the sub but you’re right, he meant what frequency should he tune his vented box. Yeah sealed is better for that. If your sub is good enough you need don’t need the extra spl from ported anyway
isn't budget the second question first is do you wanna go full Earl Zausmer or does it have to look OEM Linke or even OEM+ sure a 2 13" Subs in teh front will be next to impossible in a RHD - but well - the basic question still stands
@@Titans2138 Did I ? - just mentioned his name because of the BMW and his absolute no compromise attitude over 20 years ago. But I'm gald that another person gets to know his car and that this incredible piece of car audio art will not be forgotten Even my E46 Build i did back in 2013 was inspired by his E34 - although I went with 2 10" Subs in the front wall and not qith 13" in the side of the front legroom
@@odie0815 I read some articles and plan on reading more. I like anyone who cuts there car up for the purpose of better sound. So many people are afraid of messing with the OEM look, I find it liberating to drill holes in my car or taking a jigsaw to my rear deck. I love the subwoofer up front idea. I’ve never actually heard it before but Earl talks about the air from the subs hitting your face. That seems fantastic. If music is nature, front subs are like going on safari in a convertible while we’re all in vans with windows rolled up. Forgive me if that makes no sense, it’s 2am right now
If i had those boxes I would glue a board on the front with an aeroport lol. The curve actually looks like how a 6th order bandpass looks when you model it in WinISD but maybe the dip at 35hz is just a cancellation. Those boxes are very a board and an aeroport away form a proper 6th order.
@@thegreendoormx4441currently, yes. I’m not sure what I was even talking about. Seems like I was joking about making it into a 4th order. Obviously, the way I described doing it doesn’t make any sense because the front chamber would be way too small. I’ve only made one 6th order and zero 4th orders and I wasn’t happy with the 4th order. I currently have a big ported box but I lean towards sealed nowadays, although I’ve always wanted to make a 4th order blown through the rear deck because of my car’s weird trunk.
I have a question. I just bought a new iPad that I’m going to use as the source for music in my car. What model do you recommend to converting to Digital output, so I can feed the digital to my Helix DSP? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
It could be coded and utilise the MOST25 line, indeed, but he wasn’t budgeting for that and was hoping to get decent results. He learnt the lesson, but as everything, it’s all about how someone wants to spend.
This car just needs 100 bucks of sound proofing on that trunk lid and small spots here and there and that amp should have an amp knob control for the bass amp to control the bass volume.
Sounds like the systems the local kids have in there cars big rattle box ,sounds like chitt,and people are happy with this, 😆 🤣 😂. Yah not my cup of tea,ill take a sound deadend car its expensive, I spent about 1000 on materials and I did it myself um sure the labor is the same if not more ,the whole interior pretty much needs to be removed about a week including running wires and cables, as Peter would say to be fair no it wasent enjoyable, until you sit in the finished car then its audio bliss,I agree one 15in sub in a custom molded to car sub box would have been better and more space ,rattle boxes make me sad they spent the money 💰 to only get halfway to finish line,thanks to Peter some will learn ,
@@smsno1 i've never seen box like that. i wonder what effect the protruding sides have. I would guess that it's a little louder. If those are vented in the back it's almost a 6th order bandpass with some sides missing
Indeed! Sealed or IB for me. If someone wants more that what 2x12” like these can do on 1.5kW proper power, then it just needs more cone area and power. Not that this car would handle that anyway! 😃
What a waste of money. No wonder the guy who installed it went out of business years ago. Please don't come back to installing car audio. The owner should just have gone to Peter from the get go
![ตีสิบเดย์ [FULL] | เปิดใจ "อาจารย์ เบียร์ ฅนตื่นธรรม" นักสนทนาธรรมสายดุดัน!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vqaBI_mnoDk/mqdefault.jpg)
Not only do you do amazing builds, you also share tons of information. Thanks a lot Peter
Bro you explained great man real talk a lot different pure Real talk to the point x
Would love to see it taken apart and get the pssound complete deadening,soundproofing,have amp repaired or replaced,get the helix in there, so it can play at full pssound potential. Fingers crossed
One of biggest issue for unexperienced builder is if there is something wrong with equipment. It's hard to tell are you doing something wrong when your DSP won't work proberly or lose your setup during the night, month after tuning.
In this case i think it was audison, I’ve got 3 dsps from them and they all have problems with the remote
I hope my Crown Vic lasts forever because I've spent a thousand hours getting rid of rattles so my bass sounds good. From deleting the trunk torsion bars, cutting through rear deck to sound deadening and decoupling every piece with foam.
In the end its you that enjoys the audio in your car 🚗 🤣 hard work sometimes is never really appreciated, but I feel your pain,lol,took me a week and 1000 in materials to deaden my truck it not easy work,but end result is worthwhile, and nope cars don't last forever we get bored with them ,I had a 03 and a 2010 p71 vic my daughter has had my 10 for over a year now,3 spending tickets lots of money in fines now she finally uses cruise control at speed limit,,kids lol,
Can't wait for PT. 2!
Haha you’ll need to wait a bit for that! 😃
bass for life!!!💪🏾
Hi Peter out of interest did the hiss go when you changed the DSP. Always wondered what them boxes sounded like. I could not live with that boot rattle.
Certain amount of the hiss was coming and is still coming from the speaker levels. Then the amp gains were also up all the way and the DSP wasn’t the best either.
Now the system has low floor noise after the Helix went in and gains on amps reset properly. It’s quiet with HEC BT, but speaker levels are still a bit noisy. It would need MOST25 integration to get clean source fr the HU, but tbf i doubt he’ll miss it too much after streaming from a phone via HEC BT, which sounds great!
Oh man.
Things like the number plate, gas tank cover and even the roof, I can fathom getting somewhat easily deadened, but that trunk panel...I can't think of a clean way to get in =/
Having said that, if it's the only thing left making noise and you're listening at basshead levels, it probably doesn't matter too much.
I remember having pretty annoying door rattle from the mid bass (I know, I know 😂), but when listening to crazy stuff, it (and everything else) was drowned out by the wall of sound >=)
What car or car type and size would you recommend for having the least resistance tuning it, given the correct components and placement?
There is no such thing as “least resistance”, they all have their odds & cons. Short cab vans like the T6.1 we shared a week ago is difficult in bass for sure.
Awesome video, is there a usual way rear seats like that can be taken out?
If I raise the seating surface all the way, I can see two bolts, but if I losen them, it's still not moving.
We didn’t have to take them out in this one as it was built by others.
great job
Brrrr brrrr brrrr bassss
I live in the US and most people in SQ here dont even use JL subs... they are not bad, but i would much rather have something more modern with some copper shorting rings in it. the audison DSP and focal amps are similar situation.. mehh.. but could have chosen much better.. but at the end of the day the install is what is more important than anything else... then equipment..
Equipment selection depends on budget most of the times and customers may not even know what’s possible, so they can run easily run into a situation like this.
What script prep do you do before recording video? I'm growing my YT channel but don't have time to write a script but also can't say what I want to say on the fly by winging it. Thx. Video editing software? You rock! Please bring a show video to Slamology next summer in Indianapolis Indiana US or at least you come to enjoy it. Believe it or not there are SQ builds there. It's the world's largest car audio show. Similar to SEMA the world's largest automotive aftermarket show (Las Vegas, NV, US). You're doing a phenomenal job but I'd like to see very brief teaser at beginning of each video to let us know what to look forward to because the thumbnail teaser isn't enough to make me think, I wanna see how he designed and built that! And his reasoning. Thx.
Brandon i have no time for script or anything, i just go with the flow. The material is what matters. If someone wants to learn, then they can watch it, at least my videos are free from marketing bullsh.t. Not trying to sell anything, rather educate people and focus on what really matters.
Short teaser at the beginning is doable and makes sense. It’s just that I hardly have time for anything. If i wanted perfectly directed videos, then i would hardly share anything.
Pete i just want to bring my car to you for tuning.. but i life in holland.. ..
Do you now somebody from holland that can tune good ?
Grt jermain
Hi, Not unfortunately. Closest to you is Marco @SoundCarSystems in Monchengladbach in Germany.
@@pssound9749
Thanks for the info..
Very surprise to see 7 series rattle like that .......
Some Beemers have similar issue, not just the 7 series.
I had subs put in but it’s not hitting like it should be. What’s wrong with it ? I have a 2017 F10. 2 8 inch hi fonics 600 rms 1200 peak on a sundown 1750 it’s clipping too. Help please it sounds like shit. No bass hits when I turn up the volume
Take it to a local shop, impossible to tell over the internet.
Only thing i can suggest is to check the polarity on each sub, so they are not out of phase compared to each other.
Great Video!
I assume that tweeters have factory passive hi-pass and the door mids are getting active hi-pass from the Focal amp. But what did you do regarding the lack of low-pass crossover on the door mid? Is it just running open?
Door mid+tweeter run off the same amp channel processed from the DSP, explained in the video. Those speakers have a passive Xover between them for the tweeters.
@@pssound9749 Yes I understand that there is a passive hi-pass element on the tweeter and an active hi-pass from the dsp below the mid as I attempted to state in my original post.
To restate, my assumption is that the tweeter and mid are on a single amp channel with an active hi-pass xover set for the mid and a passive BMW hi-pass on the tweeter. But there is no low-pass on the mid... unless you did something to it as I didn't think BMW low passed the mid passively?
*My question is whether you did anything to lowpass the mid (effectively creating the top end of a bandpass filter for that driver). Or is the mid in the door running wide open signal at the top end because there is no active or passive element on it?
@@ccvideotech the Focal K100 has a proper Xover that does LPF for the mid too, but you could even bypass that in most cases as the the tweeters are crossed really high and most upgrades leave a gap between the mid and the tweeter in 4-7/8kHz.
@@pssound9749 Somehow I missed (forgot about) the new front speakers in the doors! I thought they were still factory with just electronics replaced.
Are the Focal passive crossovers in the doors then?
@@ccvideotech i assume so. It wasn’t done by us, but another installer. I’d also put it in the door behind the doorcard.
S class, A8 and BMW 7 series may be the best cars for SQ due to the quietness during driving etc
Anyone know of a vehicle that can place at both a SPL event and SQ event? That can do at least 160 but has superior SQ? I'd be interested in learning about any vehicle that can do 60s (preferably on music) but also setup to compete in SQ and Best of Show with similar to PSSounds build quality. Anyone know of vehicles close to what I'm saying?
160dB cars don’t have subs suitable for refined, precise bass, so you’d need 2 completely independent systems. Also, when you do 160dB, you can damage your SQ speakers just by the sheer pressure. It’s probably why you don’t see any cars that can do both at those crazy levels.
My Honda could do 145dB @15Hz, more than enough to have great fun!🔊🔊
Damn Focal mono block broken .. you would think they would be over engineered for their premium price .. but we cant discount user error
This is not a premium product line and yes, you can’t tell when it got damaged..
I sir what tune u recommend dor a 15 to make it musical
he doesn't know, you gotta measure it with an RTA and REW. It's different every time based on location, box type, box size, etc... A 15 can be plenty musical you just have to eq out the big peaks
JC musical in my dictionary means that the sub can cover as many octaves as possible. Ported tuned higher like 35Hz and above sucks at lower octaves, while a large, low tuned (sub 28Hz) box may struggle to play the upper bass clean and the box is also huge. For daily i’d tune a ported 30-34Hzish, but it still can’t play below 25Hz well and after using sealed & IB most of the times, ported is just not good enough, unless all you want to do is just street banging.
@@pssound9749 my bad, I misread his question. I thought he was talking about how to eq the sub but you’re right, he meant what frequency should he tune his vented box. Yeah sealed is better for that. If your sub is good enough you need don’t need the extra spl from ported anyway
thanks so much yes I think my favorite is between 33-35 I want to something that plays good music maybe 34 hz whit a port are like 14 in2
If you could so everything you could to make the car as perfect as possible with unlimited budget... what would you do?
Everything BOSS Audio jk
isn't budget the second question
first is do you wanna go full Earl Zausmer or does it have to look OEM Linke or even OEM+
sure a 2 13" Subs in teh front will be next to impossible in a RHD - but well - the basic question still stands
@@odie0815 thanks for letting me know who Earl Zausmer is. I bet Peter had his posters on the wall when he was a kid.
@@Titans2138 Did I ? - just mentioned his name because of the BMW and his absolute no compromise attitude over 20 years ago.
But I'm gald that another person gets to know his car and that this incredible piece of car audio art will not be forgotten
Even my E46 Build i did back in 2013 was inspired by his E34 - although I went with 2 10" Subs in the front wall and not qith 13" in the side of the front legroom
@@odie0815 I read some articles and plan on reading more. I like anyone who cuts there car up for the purpose of better sound. So many people are afraid of messing with the OEM look, I find it liberating to drill holes in my car or taking a jigsaw to my rear deck. I love the subwoofer up front idea. I’ve never actually heard it before but Earl talks about the air from the subs hitting your face. That seems fantastic. If music is nature, front subs are like going on safari in a convertible while we’re all in vans with windows rolled up. Forgive me if that makes no sense, it’s 2am right now
If i had those boxes I would glue a board on the front with an aeroport lol. The curve actually looks like how a 6th order bandpass looks when you model it in WinISD but maybe the dip at 35hz is just a cancellation. Those boxes are very a board and an aeroport away form a proper 6th order.
That dip is what you hear in the driver’s seat, so it’s due to the cabin, not the box.
Do you know what you’re talking about ? 🤦♂️
@@thegreendoormx4441currently, yes. I’m not sure what I was even talking about. Seems like I was joking about making it into a 4th order. Obviously, the way I described doing it doesn’t make any sense because the front chamber would be way too small. I’ve only made one 6th order and zero 4th orders and I wasn’t happy with the 4th order. I currently have a big ported box but I lean towards sealed nowadays, although I’ve always wanted to make a 4th order blown through the rear deck because of my car’s weird trunk.
I have a question. I just bought a new iPad that I’m going to use as the source for music in my car. What model do you recommend to converting to Digital output, so I can feed the digital to my Helix DSP? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
topping d10 with iphone camera kit
As mentioned above or the HEC USB module.
surprised he used speaker level when that must have an optical most system
It could be coded and utilise the MOST25 line, indeed, but he wasn’t budgeting for that and was hoping to get decent results. He learnt the lesson, but as everything, it’s all about how someone wants to spend.
Hey man... Owner of the BMW! get this guy Pete to rebuild this car
Time & money
This car just needs 100 bucks of sound proofing on that trunk lid and small spots here and there and that amp should have an amp knob control for the bass amp to control the bass volume.
All you listed is there and have been done.
Sounds like the systems the local kids have in there cars big rattle box ,sounds like chitt,and people are happy with this, 😆 🤣 😂. Yah not my cup of tea,ill take a sound deadend car its expensive, I spent about 1000 on materials and I did it myself um sure the labor is the same if not more ,the whole interior pretty much needs to be removed about a week including running wires and cables, as Peter would say to be fair no it wasent enjoyable, until you sit in the finished car then its audio bliss,I agree one 15in sub in a custom molded to car sub box would have been better and more space ,rattle boxes make me sad they spent the money 💰 to only get halfway to finish line,thanks to Peter some will learn ,
siiiiiiigh, bassheads....
lol
ps. who on earth sold this guy 2 prefabs?
@@smsno1 i've never seen box like that. i wonder what effect the protruding sides have. I would guess that it's a little louder. If those are vented in the back it's almost a 6th order bandpass with some sides missing
It’s just a ported box with a front baffle that’s tipped back. Many people overthink it.
6th order bandpass with ports into cabin😁
i've seen 4th orders like but yea Peter would never build a bandpass I don't think since he doesn't even like vented boxes
Indeed! Sealed or IB for me. If someone wants more that what 2x12” like these can do on 1.5kW proper power, then it just needs more cone area and power. Not that this car would handle that anyway! 😃
What a waste of money. No wonder the guy who installed it went out of business years ago. Please don't come back to installing car audio. The owner should just have gone to Peter from the get go